Subscribed! I follow Tyrrell, Lawnmower Mechanic, Donyboy, Chickanich, and other lawnmower mechanics on RUclips but this video saved my Sanity! Been dealing with this shutoff problem since last Fall! You Sir have solved my problem! Plastic tip on fuel shutoff solenoid! Engaged sometimes but once warmed up slips off and blocks fuel! Thanks for the Tio!
Awesome tip. I would have never known about that. Dealing with the same issue (I think?). Runs well for some time then seems to lose power but still is running. Thank you for sharing.
I’m late to the dance but I’m having trouble with my mower shutting down while I’m mowing. Most of the time it’ll start back up and may or may not continue running. When I first start it for the day it’ll 30-40 minutes. Could I just pull the rubber off the switch without cutting anything for a test?
thing is with cutting those things off ,,i have noticed sometimes ,,not all times that when you are done mowing the gas keeps flowing into the oil ,,, if and when i do cut those tips off i always put a shut off in the line where its easy to get to ,,and when im done mowing each time i shut the gas flow off and let my mower run til all the gas is out of the carb ,,,, i have had to drain the oil many many times with gas in oil due to cutting that tip off ...ive been working on mowers for around 25/30 years and im still learning ...
Someone told me it’s the coils. Before I change those could that be the issue? The mower will run real go then after 30-45 mins it’ll stop, I have to wait abt 30 mins before starting it. It’ll mow for 15-20 then stop again
Well I took off the top and saw there was sum kind of nest covering the whole engine which now I kno y it got heated up. It will run but still turn off, I need to get a dip stick and tube can’t find anywhere the replacement bcus I can unscrew the dipstick. I also hav a new spark plug and fuel filter. But wit all this rain I haven’t had a chance to replace them.
Try taking the fuel cap off when it starts to die. The one way check valve sticks in those and doesn't release pressure from the fuel tank. When the engine runs and gets warm, it'll die from not getting enough fuel. Then u have to way for it to cool down and pressure to release from the tank to allow fuel back to the carb before it starts again. So check the fuel cap. Just a tip
I've been going round and round on my SImplicity / Kohler CV460 mower. I just did a head gasket, and new carb, (transfered over China solenoid to Stens carb). I got it running, but I'm finding after a min (or more) idling or med-revs, it shuts off. I traced it to it losing 12V+ at fuel cutoff solenoid. I don't have a complete schematic for mower. I can hear it reset, after brief cooling. If I feed starter fluid, it fires back up. I hooked power probe to solenoid 12V+ connector further up, and can see voltage drop to 0V when it dies. I cleaned up positive at starter solenoid trigger wires. I guess I'm asking what would cause power to fuel cutoff solenoid to trip off? I thought maybe its an iffy solenoid, and is tripping some sort of breaker. I can repeat this condition. I checked accessible connections. I wish I had a schematic. All I have is the Kohler CV-460 schematic which list optional stuff like Oil Sentry which trips a white kill wire to ground. Grrrr. Anyhoo, great video. I learned it the hard way some years ago. lol
I thought I was having this problem, but when it got hot and was shutting off I disconnected the hose from the fuel pump real fast and turned it over and nothing was coming out, so I think it's the cheap fuel pump I put on there. They really shouldn't be allowed to sell all these cheap garbage parts. I'm buying everything OEM from now on.
First mowing of the season (with no issues last year). Mower fired right up, mowed awhile, engine got hot, started cutting out, made no sense. Prayed for some knowledge, and here you are, and there you go. Thanks for posting.
@@randalgblack1856 issue with solenoid on mower resolved following this video. THEN, b-in-laws monster generator crapped out. Could tell he wasn't getting gas. Slighlty different style solenoid (and impossible to find replacement) so I nipped off plunger, and VaRoom. I'd check electrical signal to solenoid to insure it isn't a faulty wire. Good luck with yours.
Nope, mine has no rubber stopper. The problem seems to be what I suspect to be a corroded connection in the ignition switch. Deck had hole from blasting sand. Mowing with this hole caused debris to hit the tire and fly up into the wiring where switch is. Hole is plugged now. At first I thought it was the fuel system, so I cleaned the tank out completely, changed the fuel filter cut off rotten ends of hoses and everything there worked perfectly. Then I thought it might be vapor lock, but ruled that out too, carburetor bowl is not getting hot. It’s a V twin, so it’s not one of the coils, since there are two, and chances are small both went bad at once. Switch is broken, so I Hotwired it and ran it just fine for the 10 minutes with no shutdown. Calling dealers now to seek a new switch.
New ignition installed, but although it too needed to be replaced, the problem happened again. I could start it but this time it would shut down when I tried to engage either one of the tires. This made me think maybe it was the arm safety switch but that didn’t make sense, because there are two switches and it happened for both sides. Moreover, if these switches where bad, the mower couldn’t start. I then thought maybe it could be a dirty brake control module. I took it off and indeed it was dirty on the outside, but it was not dirty where the connection was made. What I did notice was that the female connector did not lock in to the male connector. Upon trying to push it down as hard as I could with no success, and observation I noticed that the lip around the male connector was a tad too high for the locking mechanism to engage. So I took my angle grinder and took off about a quarter of an inch, cleaned it out and they locked together as it was supposed to. What I’m noticing now is a much smoother ride. Before, my mower was very glitchy and twitchy. My guess is what was happening was the dirt that had accumulated up under there pushed it to the point of barely being connected and intermittently a disconnection in some of the pens. I’ve had this twitchy problem ever since I changed the last brake control module because of similar issues. I actually still have the old brake control module and I wonder if it also has the same problem where the lip around the pins is too high for the female connector on the mower to lock in. I paid over $100 for that part. 😡 Toro Time cutter.
if anyone knows what is wrong with my new holland gt 22 ,,,heres what it does ,, mow sometimes 15-20 minutes and it will spit sputter then stall .. usually starts right back up if i shut the deck off ,sometimes it wont even stall if i shut the pto switch off fast enough,,, next time im on it maybe 45 minutes and it does that ,,it mostly always coughs before it shuts down completely ..guy i got it from said he changed the fuel shut off ,,, he also said he changed the coils ..i dont know what to try next .....any help please
I knew about solenoids failing due to the tip sticking in the up position but this is the first I’ve heard of it happening when the engine is hot. I question that diagnosis because the tip is immersed in fuel running past it all the time, so how could it get hot? I would think the opposite - that the tip is constantly cooled by fuel running past it.
So are you saying that if the rubber tip of solenoid plunger comes off when hot, plugging carb, and you remove the solenoid to check, the tip would still be off? Was hoping the solenoid was my problem but after 10 minutes of engine running fine, then suddenly cutting off like it was out of gas, I checked and tip is still firmly attached. Spark was good so doesn't seem to be ignition system. Likely plugged carb next step? BS Intek 10.5 with Nikki carb.
The tip can reseat itself back onto the plunger. Sometimes when engine warms up the solenoid will fail. Start by spraying carb or brake cleaner into carb after it shuts off and won't restart. If it starts its fuel related. I have some other videos on how to diagnose the issue.
Thanks King You just saved Me another $2000 🙏 I was just about to get a new lawnmower. Your video was so plain and simple even a fifth grader could understand your instructions.
Dude, thank you for posting this. I was baffled by what my issue was!! Thanks again.👍
Subscribed! I follow Tyrrell, Lawnmower Mechanic, Donyboy, Chickanich, and other lawnmower mechanics on RUclips but this video saved my Sanity! Been dealing with this shutoff problem since last Fall! You Sir have solved my problem! Plastic tip on fuel shutoff solenoid! Engaged sometimes but once warmed up slips off and blocks fuel! Thanks for the Tio!
Awesome, glad we helped out.
Awesome tip. I would have never known about that. Dealing with the same issue (I think?). Runs well for some time then seems to lose power but still is running. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching. Also, and it may sound silly, but loosen your cas cap. If the problem goes away replace gas cap. Vent in cap not working.
@@RaleysSmallEngines
Good point. Thank you.
Thank you sir. I'm trying to do better on my videos and include more information. Thanks you so much for subscribing and watching.
definitely helpful as I scratch my head. great vid
I think it's safer too keeping a hotwire away from the fuel source , just as long as you remember to turn your gas line switch off after using.
I’m late to the dance but I’m having trouble with my mower shutting down while I’m mowing. Most of the time it’ll start back up and may or may not continue running. When I first start it for the day it’ll 30-40 minutes. Could I just pull the rubber off the switch without cutting anything for a test?
Thank you, I will check this out.
Very VERY good !!!
Thank you
Well, iv not seen that happen before. I do cut them off or replace with a bowl nut. Good video
thing is with cutting those things off ,,i have noticed sometimes ,,not all times that when you are done mowing the gas keeps flowing into the oil ,,, if and when i do cut those tips off i always put a shut off in the line where its easy to get to ,,and when im done mowing each time i shut the gas flow off and let my mower run til all the gas is out of the carb ,,,, i have had to drain the oil many many times with gas in oil due to cutting that tip off ...ive been working on mowers for around 25/30 years and im still learning ...
More great info. Thanks
Thank you
Someone told me it’s the coils. Before I change those could that be the issue? The mower will run real go then after 30-45 mins it’ll stop, I have to wait abt 30 mins before starting it. It’ll mow for 15-20 then stop again
Having the same issue with a kohler engine in an old 1964 bobcat
Well I took off the top and saw there was sum kind of nest covering the whole engine which now I kno y it got heated up. It will run but still turn off, I need to get a dip stick and tube can’t find anywhere the replacement bcus I can unscrew the dipstick. I also hav a new spark plug and fuel filter. But wit all this rain I haven’t had a chance to replace them.
Try taking the fuel cap off when it starts to die. The one way check valve sticks in those and doesn't release pressure from the fuel tank. When the engine runs and gets warm, it'll die from not getting enough fuel. Then u have to way for it to cool down and pressure to release from the tank to allow fuel back to the carb before it starts again. So check the fuel cap. Just a tip
19.5hp turns on gets hot shuts off
It’s the magneto
Yes that can be a problem
great information
Glad it was helpful!
Could one possibly use a dab of fuel resistant super glue under the little cap to keep it in place?
I've been going round and round on my SImplicity / Kohler CV460 mower. I just did a head gasket, and new carb, (transfered over China solenoid to Stens carb). I got it running, but I'm finding after a min (or more) idling or med-revs, it shuts off. I traced it to it losing 12V+ at fuel cutoff solenoid. I don't have a complete schematic for mower. I can hear it reset, after brief cooling. If I feed starter fluid, it fires back up. I hooked power probe to solenoid 12V+ connector further up, and can see voltage drop to 0V when it dies. I cleaned up positive at starter solenoid trigger wires. I guess I'm asking what would cause power to fuel cutoff solenoid to trip off? I thought maybe its an iffy solenoid, and is tripping some sort of breaker. I can repeat this condition. I checked accessible connections. I wish I had a schematic. All I have is the Kohler CV-460 schematic which list optional stuff like Oil Sentry which trips a white kill wire to ground. Grrrr. Anyhoo, great video. I learned it the hard way some years ago. lol
Why wasn't this a problem with previous engines? Is it that the previous side valve engines did not have this problem? Your thoughts. Thanks.
I thought I was having this problem, but when it got hot and was shutting off I disconnected the hose from the fuel pump real fast and turned it over and nothing was coming out, so I think it's the cheap fuel pump I put on there. They really shouldn't be allowed to sell all these cheap garbage parts. I'm buying everything OEM from now on.
It's a shame, nothing lasts anymore. I would rather spend more for quality that lasts like the old days.
Thanks for info, my JD has been cutting off after 30-45 min. And will only run in choke position. Should I cut tip off or replace solenoid? Thanks
First mowing of the season (with no issues last year). Mower fired right up, mowed awhile, engine got hot, started cutting out, made no sense. Prayed for some knowledge, and here you are, and there you go. Thanks for posting.
did it work I am having g same problem but I don't see any rubber in my solenoid
@@randalgblack1856 issue with solenoid on mower resolved following this video. THEN, b-in-laws monster generator crapped out. Could tell he wasn't getting gas. Slighlty different style solenoid (and impossible to find replacement) so I nipped off plunger, and VaRoom. I'd check electrical signal to solenoid to insure it isn't a faulty wire.
Good luck with yours.
I wonder if that’s my issue, I will let you know in a few.
Nope, mine has no rubber stopper. The problem seems to be what I suspect to be a corroded connection in the ignition switch. Deck had hole from blasting sand. Mowing with this hole caused debris to hit the tire and fly up into the wiring where switch is. Hole is plugged now. At first I thought it was the fuel system, so I cleaned the tank out completely, changed the fuel filter cut off rotten ends of hoses and everything there worked perfectly. Then I thought it might be vapor lock, but ruled that out too, carburetor bowl is not getting hot. It’s a V twin, so it’s not one of the coils, since there are two, and chances are small both went bad at once. Switch is broken, so I Hotwired it and ran it just fine for the 10 minutes with no shutdown. Calling dealers now to seek a new switch.
New ignition installed, but although it too needed to be replaced, the problem happened again. I could start it but this time it would shut down when I tried to engage either one of the tires. This made me think maybe it was the arm safety switch but that didn’t make sense, because there are two switches and it happened for both sides. Moreover, if these switches where bad, the mower couldn’t start. I then thought maybe it could be a dirty brake control module. I took it off and indeed it was dirty on the outside, but it was not dirty where the connection was made. What I did notice was that the female connector did not lock in to the male connector. Upon trying to push it down as hard as I could with no success, and observation I noticed that the lip around the male connector was a tad too high for the locking mechanism to engage. So I took my angle grinder and took off about a quarter of an inch, cleaned it out and they locked together as it was supposed to. What I’m noticing now is a much smoother ride. Before, my mower was very glitchy and twitchy. My guess is what was happening was the dirt that had accumulated up under there pushed it to the point of barely being connected and intermittently a disconnection in some of the pens. I’ve had this twitchy problem ever since I changed the last brake control module because of similar issues. I actually still have the old brake control module and I wonder if it also has the same problem where the lip around the pins is too high for the female connector on the mower to lock in. I paid over $100 for that part. 😡 Toro Time cutter.
if anyone knows what is wrong with my new holland gt 22 ,,,heres what it does ,, mow sometimes 15-20 minutes and it will spit sputter then stall .. usually starts right back up if i shut the deck off ,sometimes it wont even stall if i shut the pto switch off fast enough,,, next time im on it maybe 45 minutes and it does that ,,it mostly always coughs before it shuts down completely ..guy i got it from said he changed the fuel shut off ,,, he also said he changed the coils ..i dont know what to try next .....any help please
Didn’t fix mine still have no clue what’s wrong
Another thought, why not just remove the rubber tip .
😮
Meant Intek 19.5...
I knew about solenoids failing due to the tip sticking in the up position but this is the first I’ve heard of it happening when the engine is hot. I question that diagnosis because the tip is immersed in fuel running past it all the time, so how could it get hot? I would think the opposite - that the tip is constantly cooled by fuel running past it.
More likely tip is just degrading from ethenol fuel.
Joe is correct Rein. They expand and come loose from the solenoid and close off fuel.
That was great didn’t know that very helpful I chased all the other problems down
So are you saying that if the rubber tip of solenoid plunger comes off when hot, plugging carb, and you remove the solenoid to check, the tip would still be off? Was hoping the solenoid was my problem but after 10 minutes of engine running fine, then suddenly cutting off like it was out of gas, I checked and tip is still firmly attached. Spark was good so doesn't seem to be ignition system. Likely plugged carb next step? BS Intek 10.5 with Nikki carb.
The tip can reseat itself back onto the plunger. Sometimes when engine warms up the solenoid will fail. Start by spraying carb or brake cleaner into carb after it shuts off and won't restart. If it starts its fuel related. I have some other videos on how to diagnose the issue.
Awesome!👍👍
Thanks, I though it was a coil braking down!
Great troubleshooting guide on this Kibler!!!
Thank you great information
Thanks King You just saved Me another $2000 🙏 I was just about to get a new lawnmower. Your video was so plain and simple even a fifth grader could understand your instructions.
Lol King 🤴 Wow thank you for your kind words my friend. Glad it helped you out