Cleaning up a previous owner’s wire mess is always fun! …and sometimes scary lol. On the electrical: I’ve always had to clean the ground at the block and the firewall; especially with a leaky oil pressure sending unit. Get those good and clean. I also found that a power cable for an electric golf cart can really help with power issues: the cable from the battery to the power distribution/relay bank is usually just a regular battery cable, about a foot long. I needed one and was at a specialty battery shop and asked them because I couldn’t find one at the parts stores. They gave me a fine-strand power cable and it fit perfectly and really smoothed out the power supply!! Best ten bucks I’ve spent on a YJ!
I am right there with you. A man I worked for bought a Jeep and paid a lot. Turns out it was a proverbial Pig in a Prom dress. The guy had truck bed liner the whole tub and body armor. Turns out it was rusted under so all he did was liner over. The lift on the Jeep was accomplished via front shackles, 10.5" center to center. Fuel injection supply and return lines connected to fuel rail via clamps. These are a few examples. I decided to continue on. This probably will not be my long term Jeep but I am using it to learn and saving any piece for the next. I hate you are going through these issues but I am happy you are sharing them. You know misery loves company ;). I found heat gun and scraper works best for me for removing bediner.
Yeah. I don’t think it will be all that bad, just trying to work through and fix each issue as I find them. Thank you so much for the support! Glad you are trying to fix one too, even if it isn’t going to be a long term Jeep for you! 🙏🏻
Oil pressure sender: a little solvent on a rag or qtip or small brush to clean up the mounting hole can help installation and sealing. Seen them leak after being replaced. Might need a little plumbing tape to seal the threads
Yeah I thought about plumbers tape, but with all the trouble I was having I just decided to skip it. If it starts leaking that’s what I’ll do for sure.
Stay positive brother, I know your pain been there myself. Had to basically rebuild from the ground up on all systems, and yes it can be overwhelming but stay focused and think about everything as little projects to eventually be done at some point.
The TJ has slightly different mounts but the switches will mount in the YJ with a very thin jam nut. I think there are plastic ones at Lowe’s that’ll work as well. The stopper/plunger can be pulled out when the doors are off act as an “off” switch. The video will explain it better. This was a great bonus for us as the switches were gone on the YJ we bought. Great content btw
I laughed out loud when you showed the body mount bolts and said no big deal. I hope you're right. I'm welding my floor back together next weekend after replacing mine. 🤣
@@SimplyMustGo I'm pulling for ya, but it'll make a great video if you do have to. A side project like yours (and mine) are great for learning about the vehicle and picking up new mechanical skills, but learning some deep breathing exercises comes in handy as well. 😄 Couple hints if you do. I drilled small holes above the six bolts that you can't access and sprayed them with PB Blaster for a week. I slowly turned them back and forth at the same time to try and get the lubricant down around the bolt. Still broke four out of the 10 bolts (Northern Canadian winters probably doesn't help the corrosion). I just made three 2.5" cuts above the bolts and bent it back for access. The nuts/plates are held in place with a thin sheet metal housing that can be chiseled out. Air hammer is the easiest, but by hand shouldn't be an issue either. I'm just going to use spare body mount washers ground to fit and weld them and the nut down. The two rear mounts can be accessed from inside the wheel well, cutting an access on the vertical side of the boxed housing. Seemed like a daunting task to start, but turned out to be pretty easy in the end. If necessary, and you don't have a welder, this is the perfect project to start with. I use a cheap Lincoln 140 Mig Pak (with gas) and it works great for these small projects.
Man I'm going through this exact thing. Bought a yj a month ago just did the rear frame rot fix also had to replace the rear cross member, fix fuel tank wiring , they had Chevy Leafs in there so finding that out and getting bushings took a while ,broken leaf pack , center pins were to short so the dif was just moving around on the Leafs. And the central axle disconnect seal leaking no matter how many times I change it haha. And I haven't even looked at the wiring nightmare yet. I was spoiled with my jk
I always prepare myself to find stupid stuff when I buy a new project. The wiring was hacked to pieces when I bought my 79 Ramcharger in 2007. I didn’t want to do the whole harness so I just repaired as I needed to until a few years ago when two things happened. The harness melted at the firewall on the way back from Moab. I fixed it well enough to get home (was near Palm Springs, lived in Oceanside) and planned to do the harness then. But I also had a Duster I was building. Got it done but then we were moving to SC. Years later I’m finally doing it. Waiting for my gauges and EFI fuel pump so I can finish it. So mad at myself for letting it sit.
Yeah. It’s a constant battle for me between what I feel like I can do right now and what I can push off. Though every time I push something down the road I seem to regret it.
Yeah hind site is 20/20. Looking back there is a lot I could have done, but at the time I was just thinking, any second it will catch. Any second. Yeah. Annnnnyyy second.
@@SimplyMustGo it’s more like bringing her back from beyond. Looking at your jeep, I was thinking- man I wish my jeep was in that good of condition. Then I saw yours came with an amp and speakers too… must be nice. Remove the amp and get a spray can of bed liner to patch the spot back. Maybe a bit of bondo first to plug the hole. My jeep hasn’t passed inspection since 2013. Deer camp tool with a perfect body. Topless and no tail gate.
We all have 'those' days. Sometimes you're the bug, sometimes you're the windshield. First, why didn't you remove the jack? I'd guess it's a tool less operation even. Second, the way you showed the socket for the oil sender, it looked like it held it only so deep. So if it does keep it so the threads stick out, use the socket and extension bar to 'extend' your arm. Twist it in with the tool. But never start a bolt/thread with the wrench! If you cross tread, You'll hate life. Use your fingers to twist the extension. Third, I was going to ask why you didn't push the YJ in 6 more inches, but your bungie fixed that! Alpine is nice equipment! Not sure about that model, but ya, it's super nice stuff in my opinion. Even the subs are nice, just not the box. *both of these statements only work if the equipment isn't blown out* Keep going! this is fun watching someone else's Strugglebus. 🙂 I've worn the driver's seat out of my bus.
I didn't remove the Jack because.... I'm not that smart. I did get it started with my hands, but it just took forever to get it to catch. Once I finally got it started I used the wrench. I was worried about cross threading it too. I also couldn't move the YJ forward because that big front bumper was already really close to the stuff on that back wall and my XL tummy couldn't get through... haha
Carver asked why didn't you just take the jack off the mount? As far as the amp goes, back in the 90's that was a pretty nice amp. Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, and Kicker were the best in car audio. Not too sure how it will pair with modern stereos though.
It’s a decent amp…definitely not a sub amp though…but it happens. It’s fairly old. If it works you might be able to get about $50 out of it. Would be good for powering some better speakers in the JKU
Bedliner in a jeep tub is an ABOMINATION! It traps dirt in those tiny crevasses and water found it’s way under ours and we have some surface rust to manage. The courtesy lights are an issue you’ll likely bump into and I’ll link a video you’ll love when/if you take doors off and want don’t want to disconnect your courtesy lights.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Cleaning up a previous owner’s wire mess is always fun! …and sometimes scary lol. On the electrical: I’ve always had to clean the ground at the block and the firewall; especially with a leaky oil pressure sending unit. Get those good and clean. I also found that a power cable for an electric golf cart can really help with power issues: the cable from the battery to the power distribution/relay bank is usually just a regular battery cable, about a foot long. I needed one and was at a specialty battery shop and asked them because I couldn’t find one at the parts stores. They gave me a fine-strand power cable and it fit perfectly and really smoothed out the power supply!! Best ten bucks I’ve spent on a YJ!
That’s a great idea. I was thinking of getting all new cables from Jeepcables.com.
Learning as you go is sometimes the best way, ya never forget!. Great video, looking forward to more updates
Yeah. Mistakes make the best teachers. 🤣
I am right there with you. A man I worked for bought a Jeep and paid a lot. Turns out it was a proverbial Pig in a Prom dress. The guy had truck bed liner the whole tub and body armor. Turns out it was rusted under so all he did was liner over. The lift on the Jeep was accomplished via front shackles, 10.5" center to center. Fuel injection supply and return lines connected to fuel rail via clamps. These are a few examples. I decided to continue on. This probably will not be my long term Jeep but I am using it to learn and saving any piece for the next. I hate you are going through these issues but I am happy you are sharing them. You know misery loves company ;). I found heat gun and scraper works best for me for removing bediner.
As far as limited room and getting up I bought Gorilla Folding Platform. 49 dollars during Xmas. It's 20" high and only like a foot wide
That’s a great idea!
Yeah. I don’t think it will be all that bad, just trying to work through and fix each issue as I find them. Thank you so much for the support! Glad you are trying to fix one too, even if it isn’t going to be a long term Jeep for you! 🙏🏻
Oil pressure sender: a little solvent on a rag or qtip or small brush to clean up the mounting hole can help installation and sealing. Seen them leak after being replaced. Might need a little plumbing tape to seal the threads
Yeah I thought about plumbers tape, but with all the trouble I was having I just decided to skip it. If it starts leaking that’s what I’ll do for sure.
Gotta love the joys of working on a lifted Jeep: can’t reach and then hood hits the garage door!! My garage too! Barely scoots in under the doorway!
Yeah. It’s something I’ve having to learn to work around for sure!
This was hilarious to watch. I can see why people prefer buying a vehicle as stock as possible. Its nice when upgrades are done right tho lol.
Strong work on the YJ, you're making progress!
Thanks! It’s getting there.
Stay positive brother, I know your pain been there myself. Had to basically rebuild from the ground up on all systems, and yes it can be overwhelming but stay focused and think about everything as little projects to eventually be done at some point.
Absolutely! 🙏🏻
Doing the wiring harness in my Ramcharger in a new car garage has been a riot. 🙄🤣
Good video Matt. I'm enjoying the Emo series.
Thank you! More to come for sure!
The TJ has slightly different mounts but the switches will mount in the YJ with a very thin jam nut. I think there are plastic ones at Lowe’s that’ll work as well. The stopper/plunger can be pulled out when the doors are off act as an “off” switch.
The video will explain it better. This was a great bonus for us as the switches were gone on the YJ we bought.
Great content btw
Helps to provide the link huh?
ruclips.net/video/RfnhaBNAVuA/видео.html
Great to know!
I laughed out loud when you showed the body mount bolts and said no big deal. I hope you're right. I'm welding my floor back together next weekend after replacing mine. 🤣
Dang! I haven’t gotten to mine yet. Fingers crossed.
@@SimplyMustGo I'm pulling for ya, but it'll make a great video if you do have to. A side project like yours (and mine) are great for learning about the vehicle and picking up new mechanical skills, but learning some deep breathing exercises comes in handy as well. 😄
Couple hints if you do. I drilled small holes above the six bolts that you can't access and sprayed them with PB Blaster for a week. I slowly turned them back and forth at the same time to try and get the lubricant down around the bolt. Still broke four out of the 10 bolts (Northern Canadian winters probably doesn't help the corrosion). I just made three 2.5" cuts above the bolts and bent it back for access. The nuts/plates are held in place with a thin sheet metal housing that can be chiseled out. Air hammer is the easiest, but by hand shouldn't be an issue either. I'm just going to use spare body mount washers ground to fit and weld them and the nut down. The two rear mounts can be accessed from inside the wheel well, cutting an access on the vertical side of the boxed housing.
Seemed like a daunting task to start, but turned out to be pretty easy in the end. If necessary, and you don't have a welder, this is the perfect project to start with. I use a cheap Lincoln 140 Mig Pak (with gas) and it works great for these small projects.
Man I'm going through this exact thing. Bought a yj a month ago just did the rear frame rot fix also had to replace the rear cross member, fix fuel tank wiring , they had Chevy Leafs in there so finding that out and getting bushings took a while ,broken leaf pack , center pins were to short so the dif was just moving around on the Leafs. And the central axle disconnect seal leaking no matter how many times I change it haha. And I haven't even looked at the wiring nightmare yet. I was spoiled with my jk
Wow! That’s a lot, but everything you’re doing is just making it that much better!
Have you thought about a step that hooks on your tires I have one its great.
You had me at YJ.......subbed
Haha thank you!🙏🏻
It was good to see your human!! Great work
Haha thank you! 🙏🏻
I always prepare myself to find stupid stuff when I buy a new project. The wiring was hacked to pieces when I bought my 79 Ramcharger in 2007. I didn’t want to do the whole harness so I just repaired as I needed to until a few years ago when two things happened. The harness melted at the firewall on the way back from Moab. I fixed it well enough to get home (was near Palm Springs, lived in Oceanside) and planned to do the harness then. But I also had a Duster I was building. Got it done but then we were moving to SC. Years later I’m finally doing it. Waiting for my gauges and EFI fuel pump so I can finish it. So mad at myself for letting it sit.
Yeah. It’s a constant battle for me between what I feel like I can do right now and what I can push off. Though every time I push something down the road I seem to regret it.
Insulations like that that you had with Oil pressure sensor I would have just removed the fenders And open up access to the whole thing
Yeah hind site is 20/20. Looking back there is a lot I could have done, but at the time I was just thinking, any second it will catch. Any second. Yeah. Annnnnyyy second.
@Simply Must Go lol i know how that is great video btw
I’m in the middle of a complete rewire project , to say the least it’s been a learning experience as well as a frustrating one .
I bet! I can’t imagine having to do a complete rewiring. Hopefully it all goes well.
What seats are you planning to swap in? The seats from a Cavalier or Sunfire are cheap options that bolt to the seat frames.
On the fence between Best Top, Corbeau or going high end and doing PRP
Btw, ZJ seats will bolt right to the YJ risers and are super comfortable…that’s why I did in my old YJ
Good to know!!
Where did you get your seats from?
I’m at the exact same stage with my 91 Yj project, except I got a lot more surface rust.
That’s awesome. Glad to see your going to be keeping her alive!
@@SimplyMustGo it’s more like bringing her back from beyond. Looking at your jeep, I was thinking- man I wish my jeep was in that good of condition. Then I saw yours came with an amp and speakers too… must be nice. Remove the amp and get a spray can of bed liner to patch the spot back. Maybe a bit of bondo first to plug the hole. My jeep hasn’t passed inspection since 2013. Deer camp tool with a perfect body. Topless and no tail gate.
@@theotherdonald8604 yeah she’s in great shape all things considered and the stuff I gripe about is relatively minor for sure.
We all have 'those' days. Sometimes you're the bug, sometimes you're the windshield. First, why didn't you remove the jack? I'd guess it's a tool less operation even. Second, the way you showed the socket for the oil sender, it looked like it held it only so deep. So if it does keep it so the threads stick out, use the socket and extension bar to 'extend' your arm. Twist it in with the tool. But never start a bolt/thread with the wrench! If you cross tread, You'll hate life. Use your fingers to twist the extension. Third, I was going to ask why you didn't push the YJ in 6 more inches, but your bungie fixed that! Alpine is nice equipment! Not sure about that model, but ya, it's super nice stuff in my opinion. Even the subs are nice, just not the box. *both of these statements only work if the equipment isn't blown out* Keep going! this is fun watching someone else's Strugglebus. 🙂 I've worn the driver's seat out of my bus.
I didn't remove the Jack because.... I'm not that smart. I did get it started with my hands, but it just took forever to get it to catch. Once I finally got it started I used the wrench. I was worried about cross threading it too. I also couldn't move the YJ forward because that big front bumper was already really close to the stuff on that back wall and my XL tummy couldn't get through... haha
Carver asked why didn't you just take the jack off the mount? As far as the amp goes, back in the 90's that was a pretty nice amp. Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, and Kicker were the best in car audio. Not too sure how it will pair with modern stereos though.
Because Carver is smarter than I am.... haha.
Cool project, I hope my 93 doesn't require any of this work.
Haha. Thanks. Yeah she’s in good shape, but needs a little TLC
Love rhe channel, I'm local to chs. See ya around
Thank you!!
Wait your in SC?
I am!
It’s a decent amp…definitely not a sub amp though…but it happens. It’s fairly old. If it works you might be able to get about $50 out of it. Would be good for powering some better speakers in the JKU
Chevy cavalier or sunbird seat's are a direct fit to a jeep Wrangler yj
That’s great! Thanks!
You need to get yourself a headlamp haha.
Ain’t that the truth.
It gives me anxiety watching you replace that oil pressure sensor with your watch on. Lol
Haha. Na, it’s an old G-Shock that’s already pretty beat up. I wear it when I know things are gonna get beat up.
Every. Single. Time. I. Drop SOMETHING. It. Hits the floor and rolls or flips. Right. Under. My. Tool bench. Every. Single. Time.
Dude! EVERY TIME! I know that pain.
A simple way to help you work on a vehicle that is too tall - let the air out of the front tires. It's a easy and simple fix to your height dilemma.
Haha. That would work.
@@SimplyMustGo works great for me with my 35’s.
Bedliner in a jeep tub is an ABOMINATION! It traps dirt in those tiny crevasses and water found it’s way under ours and we have some surface rust to manage. The courtesy lights are an issue you’ll likely bump into and I’ll link a video you’ll love when/if you take doors off and want don’t want to disconnect your courtesy lights.
Yeah. I don’t think I’m a fan of the bed liner, but I’m kind stuck with it now.
@@SimplyMustGo we heated ours with gas and it came off (not easy). We also tried Citristrip with varied success.
With that amp being Alpine I would try to sell it
My purchase of a WIP makes me mad at times to.
Yeah. I’m happy with my little stubby antenna, now that it’s installed. Haha
Invest in a step ladder
Yeah. Lesson learned. 🤣
Some people shouldn't work on cars