actually good vid mate, idk how yt decides to show me vids, but is aight) Also 1 moment about not removing logo and small panel in the mid, i think you should spent a lil time to get them off, final results when parts done separately are much better usually
Thanks so much I really appreciate that mate! Yeah I was thinking as I was doing the job, perhaps I should just remove the logo. But all came out ok thankfully!
Hi IV tried this technique exactly the same a sanded then polished with meguiars ultimate compound but I just can’t get the shine to come out any tips?
@@BenFlipsCars 600 then 1500 as I tried 1500 first but wasn’t doing much so lightly did it with 600 then 1500 got it smooth then polished with a rotary tool and ultimate compound but can’t seem to get the nice reflection
ah thats probably the problem, 600 is too harsh as a finishing grit. I'd go over the whole thing again with at least 2000 or 2500 wet sandpaper. After that, the shine should come out a lot more easily!
I was trying to fix a little scratch for my door penal and all I did is makes the issue bigger. Now the area is getting bigger because of my poor paiting knowledge. I think I am comfortable enough to do it again after wathing your video. One question, should I sand the whole door panel? becaue last time I did it I just use the tape to square the area, turns out I can see the new layer is like a square after I take off the tape.
Glad I could make you feel more confident in having another go! One of my first paint jobs I did the same thing and ended up with a square haha. To avoid that I just tape up the surrounding panel and trim, but not any of the actual panel I am painting. Then just focus the paint on the area you're fixing, and feather out the new clear coat slightly further (than the new paint) into the existing panel. And no, not necessary to sand the whole panel but feather you're sanding out slightly from the damaged area to minimise the contrast.
@@BenFlipsCars I have checked the video and I think I have the idea what you mentioned. For example. if you have a finger sized panel that need to be fixed, you might want to tape a hand sized panel area in order to work on the finger sized area. When sanding, mainly focus on the bad finger area but also sand a bit further around that finger area in order to minimise the contrast (don't sand all the hand area otherwise it will be like we did before, square new painting). Which at the end, the finger sized area will be fully sanded and a little bit of the surrounding area, but the edge of the tape area should be not sanded. When painting, mainly focus on the fingered area as well but also paint a bit further to the surrounding area (But not all the hand sized area, the edge of the tape area should not be painted as well.) Am I right? I tried my best to use my English to explain what I understand haha.
No no, make sure there is no taping up on the panel you are repairing at all! Even if its just a small part of it you are repairing. Otherwise you'll end up with tape lines on the panel you are repairing. However on the surrounding panels that are undamaged, these are the ones you want to tape up. You will inevitably end up getting a little paint and clear coat on parts of the panel you dont want, but thats ok so long as everything is clear coated over at the end. Then you can wet sand and compound everything and the finish should all blend together
@BenFlipsCars got it, Maybe my descriptions are not good enough, I think hand sized tapping is too small for finger sized scratch. I would say 8 hands sized taping area for finger sized scratch. Like the 8 hands sized rectangle tapping, but what you gonna fix is the finger sized scratch in the circle middle. While sanding and painting, try to not sand and paint the area around the rectangle otherwise it will leave the lines. But abit futher around the circle is good for the faded affection.
To my knowledge there is no such thing as 1k base coat. The 2k clear is called that because it contains the hardener. Theres no base coats with hardener in them is there?
The match is never going to be completely perfect, especially on a car this old. But I thought it was very close and once the finish came out right, I could hardly tell the difference!
@@BenFlipsCars I disagree. Polishing won't change the colour and it was obviously different. While it might not ever be perfect it could be much better. There can be more than 10 variations of the same colour code so going to Supercheap auto for a colour mix based on the base colour code will always give poor results as you've experienced. If you could hardly tell the difference I'm shocked.
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Good stuff mate keep up the good work hope you have a few wins this year
Thanks so much! Really appreciate the comment, already had some small wins. We'll get there!
actually good vid mate, idk how yt decides to show me vids, but is aight)
Also 1 moment about not removing logo and small panel in the mid, i think you should spent a lil time to get them off, final results when parts done separately are much better usually
Thanks so much I really appreciate that mate!
Yeah I was thinking as I was doing the job, perhaps I should just remove the logo. But all came out ok thankfully!
Hi IV tried this technique exactly the same a sanded then polished with meguiars ultimate compound but I just can’t get the shine to come out any tips?
What grit of wet sandpaper did you use? And how long did you polish for?
@@BenFlipsCars 600 then 1500 as I tried 1500 first but wasn’t doing much so lightly did it with 600 then 1500 got it smooth then polished with a rotary tool and ultimate compound but can’t seem to get the nice reflection
ah thats probably the problem, 600 is too harsh as a finishing grit. I'd go over the whole thing again with at least 2000 or 2500 wet sandpaper. After that, the shine should come out a lot more easily!
I was trying to fix a little scratch for my door penal and all I did is makes the issue bigger. Now the area is getting bigger because of my poor paiting knowledge. I think I am comfortable enough to do it again after wathing your video. One question, should I sand the whole door panel? becaue last time I did it I just use the tape to square the area, turns out I can see the new layer is like a square after I take off the tape.
Glad I could make you feel more confident in having another go!
One of my first paint jobs I did the same thing and ended up with a square haha. To avoid that I just tape up the surrounding panel and trim, but not any of the actual panel I am painting. Then just focus the paint on the area you're fixing, and feather out the new clear coat slightly further (than the new paint) into the existing panel.
And no, not necessary to sand the whole panel but feather you're sanding out slightly from the damaged area to minimise the contrast.
Check out this video, you may find it helpful with blending the the new paint and old paint on the panel: ruclips.net/video/8Y9Jw-0dHng/видео.html
@@BenFlipsCars I have checked the video and I think I have the idea what you mentioned. For example. if you have a finger sized panel that need to be fixed, you might want to tape a hand sized panel area in order to work on the finger sized area. When sanding, mainly focus on the bad finger area but also sand a bit further around that finger area in order to minimise the contrast (don't sand all the hand area otherwise it will be like we did before, square new painting). Which at the end, the finger sized area will be fully sanded and a little bit of the surrounding area, but the edge of the tape area should be not sanded. When painting, mainly focus on the fingered area as well but also paint a bit further to the surrounding area (But not all the hand sized area, the edge of the tape area should not be painted as well.) Am I right? I tried my best to use my English to explain what I understand haha.
No no, make sure there is no taping up on the panel you are repairing at all! Even if its just a small part of it you are repairing. Otherwise you'll end up with tape lines on the panel you are repairing.
However on the surrounding panels that are undamaged, these are the ones you want to tape up.
You will inevitably end up getting a little paint and clear coat on parts of the panel you dont want, but thats ok so long as everything is clear coated over at the end. Then you can wet sand and compound everything and the finish should all blend together
@BenFlipsCars got it, Maybe my descriptions are not good enough, I think hand sized tapping is too small for finger sized scratch. I would say 8 hands sized taping area for finger sized scratch. Like the 8 hands sized rectangle tapping, but what you gonna fix is the finger sized scratch in the circle middle. While sanding and painting, try to not sand and paint the area around the rectangle otherwise it will leave the lines. But abit futher around the circle is good for the faded affection.
Do not put 2k clear over 1k base coat
To my knowledge there is no such thing as 1k base coat. The 2k clear is called that because it contains the hardener. Theres no base coats with hardener in them is there?
The colour is completely different.
The match is never going to be completely perfect, especially on a car this old. But I thought it was very close and once the finish came out right, I could hardly tell the difference!
@@BenFlipsCars I disagree. Polishing won't change the colour and it was obviously different. While it might not ever be perfect it could be much better. There can be more than 10 variations of the same colour code so going to Supercheap auto for a colour mix based on the base colour code will always give poor results as you've experienced. If you could hardly tell the difference I'm shocked.
Promote your Chanel with clips on TT Ben
Beat you to it Charlie! TikTok is defs unreal with its organic reach 👍
As soon as i seen duck tape i moved on...
Haha unfortunately I was out of masking tape! And it was gaffer tape!
Either it works or It doesn’t, the man’s not running a panel shop, it’s DIY, who cares
🦆tape 😂