Print several arms for the Extruder, the plastic arm will brake from the pressure of the spring and your can't print with no extruder arm and MP will not sell you spare parts thing:1743385
I accidentally stumbled upon your page at around 3am. It’s 5am now,and I’m still watching. Thanks a lot!!! I didn’t get any sleep,and now I need a 3D printer. Lol... Thank you for making the mistakes first. Now we won’t make the same mistakes when we get our first printers.
Nice intro video. Welcome to 3D printing! What you may what to experiment with for bed adhesion without the glue stick is to print your first layer hotter than the rest of the print. Also you can reduce your layer heights (particularly for the first layer) so that it's adequately "squished" onto the build surface. The other thing you can do is to add a brim to your prints so that 1) the filament is guaranteed to be flowing when it starts printing your object, and 2) it provides additional surface area to tack the object onto the build plate.
2nd this. After about 2 weeks of messing around with multiple glue sticks and cleaning the bed but getting no adhesion, I tried masking tape and it works beautifully! I have yet to have a piece fail to stick to it and only had to replace it once (which wasn't the printer's fault, I tore the tape trying to remove the piece with my spatula)
I know this is one of your older videos now and I just wanted to tell you that yes it is an addictive hobby. I have been bitten as well about a year ago now too. Love 3d printing.
If you keep your filament a while, and use them for small projects a lot, the silica in the bags will quickly get saturated and stop working. You can buy silica packets fairly cheap, but there's a better solution! Silica gel absorbs water from the air, so all you have to do is bake it back out! Heat an oven or (better!) a toaster oven to 225-250 deg F, put the silica gel packets on some paper towel on a cookie sheet. Put them in the oven for about an hour. They should come out just about like new! After you cook them a bunch of times, the cloth packets might get brittle (the silica itself will last a lot longer than the packet it's in). If that happens you'll want to replace them, or one day you'll have the silica crystals flying all over.
You could use some blue tape so u dont have anything for clean up. you would still need the glue but all u would have to do is pull the tape off and put some more on.
I know your comment is old but I have this printer and have only ever used blue painter tape with out any glue, I have never had a problem, but I am going to try adding glue, thanks for your advice
I have now had my MP -I3 for a month. I have had perfect print and bad prints. The biggest problem has been missing layers. Sometimes yes sometimes no. Overall a fun experience and my son and I learned a bunch. Thanks for your videos. I learned from you as well.
Forgot to mention glue. After running out of the provided glue I had to hunt for a good replacement. After trying several that said Extra Strong the most basic one worked. The kids Elmer’s Disappearing Purple - Washable is awesome and it cleans up easy with water. If you swipe the glue stick in only one direction (up, down) or (right, left) the glue does not clump up and you can go longer between cleaning. Now I need to try the painters tape and see how that does. Have you tried it yet?
3D print some type of a screwable hub for that white broken spool you mentioned.. Good video. was skeptical on the product since it is so cheap.. I guess 3D printers have really come a long way since it came out for public masses.
Nice video. I grabbed one on the $99 eBay fire sale as well and have been having very good luck with it. Getting a slicer dialed in has been the somewhat challenging part. You may not be aware, but its actually a 'Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini' that has been rebranded by Monoprice. According to Wanhao, this printer can print PLA, ABS, PVA, Stainless Steel, NinjaFlex, Nylon, HIPS, Woodfill, LayBrick, CopperFILL, BronzeFILL, MOLDLAY, Conductive, Carbon Fiber, and Polyurethane. Good luck with it!
I know this video is old, but if anybody has issues with the bed having a dips. Use a piece of glass over the bed as glass is perfectly flat. i have and ender 3 and manage to find a piece of glass at the dollar store from a picture frame almost the exact size of my bed and that solved my issues. Bonus the glass leaves the bottom supersmooth and pieces usually pop off easily.
Nice update. I hope you have figured out by now you can fix the bottoms and stringy bits with a mini torch and or sand paper. This really looks like a decent printer for the price.
Thanks for the video/update! I got this same printer as my first one on the same ebay sale and finding info about it has been infuriatingly difficult. After chatting with monoprice it turns out that this particular model is an "ebay exclusive", hence why information has been sparse and why some of the parts are under different model names. My guess is it was some kind of factory mistake/issue and they got a shipment of machines that they had to do something with, but that's out of thin air so who knows the real reason lol. For what it's worth I've had amazing luck using blue painter's tape on the bed, haven't needed any glue whatsoever using that method.
Congrats again on your purchase bro! Your Video(s) are very informative & gave me the confidence & interest to invest in my own! I’m considering buying a “3D” printer now!!! Thank you 🙏
In some cases you could address the size issue by splitting your parts for the printer and gluing them together after printing. The slit line would benefit from adding face feature wide enough to provide the necessary support.
17:51 you could vary the CAD model, so the part is printed in different "segments" which could fit together, or include enough surface area for glue...just a suggestion...
if the adaptor you printed is actually something you needed for work etc,you would be a quarter way to haveing the printer pay for itself,i recently bought a step down adator similar size[injection molded id guess] and it was $39, so lets minus a few bucks for filliment and incidental's, dam these things must pay for themselves within months,im a little disapointed you did talk about the feeling you got when you did first successful print even though millions have done it before you,i bet you still get that "im a genuis feelin,and a feeling of freedom, you arnt stuck relying on a retail outlet to be open and stock something,its a trip to the spareroom/basement that must be aawesome feeling. Though it modern tech we are in some ways going back in time when a person needed something they had to make it them self,to finish id like to cogratulate you on express yourself and 3d printing very well,even if you are a little hard on youreself and the workyour start has been a lot more successful than a lot other other ive watched and they spent 2 to 10 times the money
With glue-stick, which is (usually) water-soluble, I simply use a kitchen towel dampened with a bit of water and clean it up. It soon moves. No need for Isopropyl Alcohol. You can also leave a little bit on there for the next print ;)
when you level your bed perfectly and then start printing, and the nozzle is too far away, you go to cura settings and change the 'first layer heigh', that should fix it
I've been having the damndest time leveling the bed on this printer (I bought the same ebay one, also my first), hadn't even thought of this!!! Thanks for the heads up, off to run the leveler again with a hot nozzle :-)
For the bed, try double sided blue masking tape. U can just lay a layer all the way across the whole bed, and you will have a perfect adhesion for the prints. --- Also, optional, have a sheet of glass pane about 6-8mm thick cut to the size of the bed (either you can cut it if your experienced in doing so, or have home depot, or lowes do it, when u purchase the glass sheet). --- And go to a pet store where they sell reptile care accessories and pick up a under tank heating pad/mat. (The medium size should be just the right size pad) its AC powered through standard 110v wall outlet. Also the pad has adhesive on the heating side so u can stick it to the glass pane. --- Get a 3 plug or 6 plug wall outlet power strip with a on off button, and plug the printer and heating pad to the strip, with the printer power switched on. --- And finally attach the Glass pane / heating pad assembly to the bed with stationary metal binder clips (4 clipa, 4 corners) #Now you have a heated bed, and will heat up same time as you power on the printer via the power strip on/off switch. Best of luck, and happy Printing.
One more Magigoo MO2018 3D Printing Adhesive for Large Format FDM, ABS, 4 fl. oz, Colorless www.amazon.com/dp/B079RP3VFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NCUnCbBPET2TX
I have never 3d printed anything but the print might be cooling and as a result shrinking which is causing the print to bow. You want to keep the 3d print hot to prevent warping. Heated print bed or placing the 3d printer in a heated box. That's why it is hard to print ABS on an open 3d printer but it's not like you can't fix it.
There are printable spools, so you could transfer that filament from the broken spool to a new one, or just wait till one of your other spools gets to the point where you can move the filament to that.
Good point. I think I'll wait for a spool to end and rewind it. Might have to get another roll of white though. I guess you can never have too much filament lol
I got my MonoPrice III (not the mini).. a few months ago $189.00..and it was great right out of the box. I did a quick bed level..alignment/adjust..and havent had to re adjust since. My prints thus far have turned really great..so pretty happy. but..... Complaint 1: The print bed..my pla sticks to the bed like no tomorrow...so now I use Blue Painter tape. Complaint 2: The initial contact of the nozzle with the bed when it starts a print.. contacts the bed hard, and really bunged up the edge of the bed material.
I have an identical printer from Aldi and very happy with it. I am puzzled with your comments on cleaning the glue. The bed on my printer is steel and the mat is magnetic. To clean it I just lift off the mat and wash it under cold water. Have you checked that yours is not the same? My printer is identical in every other respect. It even came with 2 spare mats. My mats have exactly the same markings as yours with the exception of the brand name.
Just wanted you to know that tjanks to your tips it has helped me to be prepared for my first successful prints!! Thank you so much! The mods helped with stabilizing the print bed and guiding of the filament.
Hello sir and thank you for sharing your knowledge. About the aftr-cleaning of residue .... I found that cleaning with baby tissues at the end of the print does a great job.
I've found the printing bug can bite you even on regular printing 😂. I have always enjoyed printing anything and I'll tell you when you buy your first highend dye based ink photo printer and manage to clean the printhead and it starts to work again, there is no better feeling 😂
If you want to print bigger things you can put the thing you want to print in tinker cad, split it in half, and design it so the half’s will snap together after you print it
watched both your print vids. I know nothing of 3d. but a C note and you are getting better prints than I buy on ebay for R/C parts. Seems as if it could pay for it's self pretty quick if one were into that.
Actually, I love 1/10 drift rc cars. I got one on the way and can't wait to print custom parts for it. One could make stuff to pay the printer off for sure, it's kinda cool.
9:30, No bed is perfect. On My Vertex I have a 0.4mm and 105% extrusion on the first layer, that way I get full adhesion on the first layer. As for the gear shift; start with a sphere, cut the markings 2mm deep, then add another sphere 2mm smaller in diameter. That way, all of the markings will be 1mm deep. 20.01, the glue is working well, quite well. For tools and mechanical parts I go 100% infill. It's expensive, but it guarantees that it will be fit for purpose.
Hey man, quite well done! A few suggestions though; 1) Don't feed your dog PLA. Unless of course you don't like him. 2) Don't expose your lovely family to the fumes created during the print. Unless of course you don't like them. 3) place some insulation between your nice desk and the base of the printer. Unless of course you don't like the desk.
When you want a bigger printer, you have to make it yourself by a RepRap. But cool start in the world of 3d printing, maybe I will buy one if they are so cheap for beginners.
found one with a heated bed. i'll prolly grab that one. making some NES game dust covers (cover the tips only) and maybe a new case for my unfinished NES Portable project from years back. so much to make........
Hi Just Vlad, Can you release or post a video how you create your models, please? I am fascinated with this new way of creating things. Thanks for your awesome videos and keep up with the good work!
I get hatch box pla its a little more expensive but its good and pacaged properly. Also i recomend geting a glass bed for that printer there pritty cheap and you wont rusk runing any electronics with the alchohol
I weld parts like this together using a soldering iron. Read-up on the technique on RUclips. Another option would be hot glue. If you can have a thick bead on the outside it should work fine.
Does anybody else notice that the horizontal rail/guide bar is a bit off (tilted down) - or - is it just a trick of the camera angle? Not a bad machine though ... I bet there is a mechanical adjustment for the arm (somewhere) vs. leveling the table but that might void the warranty ;)
Bro I think is glue not necessary try to print first 5 layers with %50 speed I am doing like that and I don't have any problem like layer shift , snapping or seperation. Glue will be wear down your printing mat.
you where leveling each corner and printing without rechecking the other corners after you leveled the other ones you to recheck what youve already done
If you are having a problem with bed heating, I suggest you reach out to Tech Support for assistance. According to the specs, this unit does have a heated bed.
While I am not used to the XYZ axis points or way of thinking since I hardly use those in everyday life. What is the overall width of a project the the printer can handle? That is from the tower to the outer part of the limb? Then from front to back with the bed being able to move forward and reverse? Then, how thick can a project be? For example, can the project be 1 inch or 5 inches thick (2.5 or 12.7 cm)?
Like you I also keep my filament spools in zip loc freezer bags with a dessicant package for any filament that is not in use. There are lots of filament guides one can print. I used Thingiverse #2080717. There are a few versions that include a holder for something to wipe the filament as it enters the extruder to remove any dust that may have settled on the filament. I also printed out a different spool holder that allows the filament to go straight in to the extruder from the spool (thingiverse items #1816995).
The filament shouldn't be left out because plastics absorb moisture and swell, which messes up the extrusion. It's not like the plastic is gonna break from being left out, it just goes bad for 3d printing
If you look closer, you can see that it is not a DC motor. He even says that it is a "magnet motor" I would guess that it is a Parandev replica of some sort. The clue I used to determine this is the angled magnet slots in the rotors.
Have you found (and used) any firmware upgrades for this model? 1/8 glass can be cut by you local glass co for only a couple dollars, but the leveling screw heads are slightly above bed level, So need to deal with that if you use glass. May be worth researching. ENJOY your VIDEOS! Happy Holidays. Also best to unplug the printer when using any liquids, etc.
PS...might be worth having 2 cut at the same time since the cost is minimal. Some may also consider LEXAN (or polycarbonate) plan on about 2.5 - 3 x the cost of the same size glass but still VERY reasonable.
Idle check of ebay in UK the next model up to this is being sold for £15.11 ($25) including shipping - so thought worth a purchase.... but being so cheap waiting to see if its a scam...... if not YAY ! Seller seems to have a few of them apparently new not second hand.
Hey :) Nice Review! It gives a great overview what is possible with the printer! I recently bought the Dublicator i3 Mini and also tried the boat "Benchy". Unfortunately the print result was not as nice as in your video. Is it possible that you could tell me your slicer settings for "Benchy" (speed, extruder temperature, layer thickness, etc.) so I can see if it is due to my setup?
this machine prints petg after u print up the block/partcooling adapter flawlessly pretty much. slower speeds 100.5 flow and retraction at 4.5/35 im printing the hero 3 block/partcooling adapter for the sooway which for me is suffering from heat creep or something, bc the thing prints flawlessy for the first 20 mintues then it starts to clunk and extrusion stops soon after..
With your broken spool, if only you had a method to design and create something to hold that filament. . . I kid. In reality I'd say either print a new spool in a couple pieces and glue it together, glue your existing spool back together, or transfer it to an old spool once you empty it
Would like to see a video on the software needed/used to do the designing with, cost of programs? if there are free programs etc, most I have seen cost $3000 or more
I would suggest fusion 360, You can get a free license as a hobbyist. I use Solidworks at my workplace whitch is one of the stupid expensive programs you talk about, and I am impressed at how much fusion 360 can do!!!
@@JustVlads Check your local ACE hardware or DO IT BEST hardware for glass. Take the measurements of the bed so you can get it cut to size, secure it to the bed with the style of alligator clips used to hold office papers together in a short stack. This will allow you to easily remove the glass for more thorough cleaning.
Cyanoacrylate aka super glue or crazy glue plus baking soda. its also used when repairing chips in carbon fiber plane props and then sanded down smooth. really strong stuff.
I've just got my first 3D printer and I've been upgrading it little by little, is very fun. Yours is nice though prints amazing, I can't get mine to print that way I think is because there is bed level issues and I'm still learning to use the filament I've got. Any way nice video! :)
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Buy 3d printer here: geni.us/LMJKef
Measuring Calipar: geni.us/hdVswC
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
Just Vlad if you put blue tape on the bed you can completely skip the glue and alcohol
can you provide a link for those bed stabilizers? thanks!
You never linked to the leveling pieces? What was the point of showing them if you're not going to link to where you dl them.
"91% alcohol, which you can buy anywhere pretty cheap" and oh how the world has changed since this upload. Thankyou for this guide
I'm the 5th comment @Just Vlad
That addiction you speak of is called creativity.
Print several arms for the Extruder, the plastic arm will brake from the pressure of the spring and your can't print with no extruder arm and MP will not sell you spare parts thing:1743385
I accidentally stumbled upon your page at around 3am. It’s 5am now,and I’m still watching. Thanks a lot!!! I didn’t get any sleep,and now I need a 3D printer. Lol... Thank you for making the mistakes first. Now we won’t make the same mistakes when we get our first printers.
Nice intro video. Welcome to 3D printing! What you may what to experiment with for bed adhesion without the glue stick is to print your first layer hotter than the rest of the print. Also you can reduce your layer heights (particularly for the first layer) so that it's adequately "squished" onto the build surface. The other thing you can do is to add a brim to your prints so that 1) the filament is guaranteed to be flowing when it starts printing your object, and 2) it provides additional surface area to tack the object onto the build plate.
Try masking tape in bed, it work really well and its easy to replace.
2nd this. After about 2 weeks of messing around with multiple glue sticks and cleaning the bed but getting no adhesion, I tried masking tape and it works beautifully! I have yet to have a piece fail to stick to it and only had to replace it once (which wasn't the printer's fault, I tore the tape trying to remove the piece with my spatula)
Kinky..........
I know this is one of your older videos now and I just wanted to tell you that yes it is an addictive hobby. I have been bitten as well about a year ago now too. Love 3d printing.
If you keep your filament a while, and use them for small projects a lot, the silica in the bags will quickly get saturated and stop working. You can buy silica packets fairly cheap, but there's a better solution! Silica gel absorbs water from the air, so all you have to do is bake it back out! Heat an oven or (better!) a toaster oven to 225-250 deg F, put the silica gel packets on some paper towel on a cookie sheet. Put them in the oven for about an hour. They should come out just about like new! After you cook them a bunch of times, the cloth packets might get brittle (the silica itself will last a lot longer than the packet it's in). If that happens you'll want to replace them, or one day you'll have the silica crystals flying all over.
You could use some blue tape so u dont have anything for clean up. you would still need the glue but all u would have to do is pull the tape off and put some more on.
I know your comment is old but I have this printer and have only ever used blue painter tape with out any glue, I have never had a problem, but I am going to try adding glue, thanks for your advice
I have now had my MP -I3 for a month. I have had perfect print and bad prints.
The biggest problem has been missing layers. Sometimes yes sometimes no. Overall a fun experience and my son and I learned a bunch.
Thanks for your videos. I learned from you as well.
Forgot to mention glue.
After running out of the provided glue I had to hunt for a good replacement. After trying several that said Extra Strong the most basic one worked.
The kids Elmer’s Disappearing Purple - Washable is awesome and it cleans up easy with water.
If you swipe the glue stick in only one direction (up, down) or (right, left) the glue does not clump up and you can go longer between cleaning.
Now I need to try the painters tape and see how that does. Have you tried it yet?
For $100, this prints really well.
I have just ordered a refurb monoprice mini v1 for 95 dollars, pretty similar it seems to this printer. I'm excited to give this a go myself.
Harrison how is it working for you??
I wouldn't sweat the broken spool. Eventually, you'll have a bunch of empties on your hands.
There is that but why not just print a new spool?
Oneofdazzz why not just print another printer and start selling them
3D print some type of a screwable hub for that white broken spool you mentioned.. Good video. was skeptical on the product since it is so cheap.. I guess 3D printers have really come a long way since it came out for public masses.
Nice, chatty videos that actually cover quite a lot of territory. Thanks, you have inspired me!
I found this 3D printer for sale at $89! Definitely buying 🤩
Can you please give me the link where to find it
Nice video. I grabbed one on the $99 eBay fire sale as well and have been having very good luck with it. Getting a slicer dialed in has been the somewhat challenging part. You may not be aware, but its actually a 'Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini' that has been rebranded by Monoprice. According to Wanhao, this printer can print PLA, ABS, PVA, Stainless Steel, NinjaFlex, Nylon, HIPS, Woodfill, LayBrick, CopperFILL, BronzeFILL, MOLDLAY, Conductive, Carbon Fiber, and Polyurethane.
Good luck with it!
JUST CHECKED eBay,,, none for 99.00
I thought it I'd seen it before. The non heated bed is a deal breaker for me.
I know this video is old, but if anybody has issues with the bed having a dips. Use a piece of glass over the bed as glass is perfectly flat. i have and ender 3 and manage to find a piece of glass at the dollar store from a picture frame almost the exact size of my bed and that solved my issues. Bonus the glass leaves the bottom supersmooth and pieces usually pop off easily.
Nice update. I hope you have figured out by now you can fix the bottoms and stringy bits with a mini torch and or sand paper. This really looks like a decent printer for the price.
Thanks for the video/update! I got this same printer as my first one on the same ebay sale and finding info about it has been infuriatingly difficult. After chatting with monoprice it turns out that this particular model is an "ebay exclusive", hence why information has been sparse and why some of the parts are under different model names. My guess is it was some kind of factory mistake/issue and they got a shipment of machines that they had to do something with, but that's out of thin air so who knows the real reason lol.
For what it's worth I've had amazing luck using blue painter's tape on the bed, haven't needed any glue whatsoever using that method.
Congrats again on your purchase bro! Your Video(s) are very informative & gave me the confidence & interest to invest in my own! I’m considering buying a “3D” printer now!!! Thank you 🙏
In some cases you could address the size issue by splitting your parts for the printer and gluing them together after printing. The slit line would benefit from adding face feature wide enough to provide the necessary support.
This printer is made by Wanhao as the i3 mini. It has also been branded as Balco and Cocoon Create Model Maker. There are probably more also.
Thank you for making these videos. This is super inspiring. Everything was thorough and easy to follow. God bless you!
17:51 you could vary the CAD model, so the part is printed in different "segments" which could fit together, or include enough surface area for glue...just a suggestion...
if the adaptor you printed is actually something you needed for work etc,you would be a quarter way to haveing the printer pay for itself,i recently bought a step down adator similar size[injection molded id guess] and it was $39, so lets minus a few bucks for filliment and incidental's, dam these things must pay for themselves within months,im a little disapointed you did talk about the feeling you got when you did first successful print even though millions have done it before you,i bet you still get that "im a genuis feelin,and a feeling of freedom, you arnt stuck relying on a retail outlet to be open and stock something,its a trip to the spareroom/basement that must be aawesome feeling. Though it modern tech we are in some ways going back in time when a person needed something they had to make it them self,to finish id like to cogratulate you on express yourself and 3d printing very well,even if you are a little hard on youreself and the workyour start has been a lot more successful than a lot other other ive watched and they spent 2 to 10 times the money
You can also add masking tape to the printing bed and apply the glue on that, it's a little more expensive but works great
Try a mixture of water and isopropyl acl. in a spray bottle for parts release, works well on glass especially.
With glue-stick, which is (usually) water-soluble, I simply use a kitchen towel dampened with a bit of water and clean it up. It soon moves. No need for Isopropyl Alcohol.
You can also leave a little bit on there for the next print ;)
hi hi hi so he should buy 50% alcohol ? as the % is alcohol by volume and the rest is water ... ;-)
when you level your bed perfectly and then start printing, and the nozzle is too far away, you go to cura settings and change the 'first layer heigh', that should fix it
When you level your bed, make sure the nozzle is heated up. There might be a small ball of plastic drooping out of it.
I've been having the damndest time leveling the bed on this printer (I bought the same ebay one, also my first), hadn't even thought of this!!! Thanks for the heads up, off to run the leveler again with a hot nozzle :-)
Would a dial indicator like used in machine work help?
For the bed, try double sided blue masking tape. U can just lay a layer all the way across the whole bed, and you will have a perfect adhesion for the prints.
--- Also, optional, have a sheet of glass pane about 6-8mm thick cut to the size of the bed (either you can cut it if your experienced in doing so, or have home depot, or lowes do it, when u purchase the glass sheet).
--- And go to a pet store where they sell reptile care accessories and pick up a under tank heating pad/mat. (The medium size should be just the right size pad) its AC powered through standard 110v wall outlet. Also the pad has adhesive on the heating side so u can stick it to the glass pane.
--- Get a 3 plug or 6 plug wall outlet power strip with a on off button, and plug the printer and heating pad to the strip, with the printer power switched on.
--- And finally attach the Glass pane / heating pad assembly to the bed with stationary metal binder clips (4 clipa, 4 corners)
#Now you have a heated bed, and will heat up same time as you power on the printer via the power strip on/off switch.
Best of luck, and happy Printing.
One more Magigoo MO2018 3D Printing Adhesive for Large Format FDM, ABS, 4 fl. oz, Colorless www.amazon.com/dp/B079RP3VFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NCUnCbBPET2TX
I have never 3d printed anything but the print might be cooling and as a result shrinking which is causing the print to bow. You want to keep the 3d print hot to prevent warping. Heated print bed or placing the 3d printer in a heated box. That's why it is hard to print ABS on an open 3d printer but it's not like you can't fix it.
There are printable spools, so you could transfer that filament from the broken spool to a new one, or just wait till one of your other spools gets to the point where you can move the filament to that.
Good point. I think I'll wait for a spool to end and rewind it. Might have to get another roll of white though. I guess you can never have too much filament lol
I got my MonoPrice III (not the mini).. a few months ago $189.00..and it was great right out of the box.
I did a quick bed level..alignment/adjust..and havent had to re adjust since.
My prints thus far have turned really great..so pretty happy.
but.....
Complaint 1: The print bed..my pla sticks to the bed like no tomorrow...so now I use Blue Painter tape.
Complaint 2: The initial contact of the nozzle with the bed when it starts a print.. contacts the bed hard, and really bunged up the edge of the bed material.
Exactly the overview I was looking for, thanks for sharing!
Awesome review buddy, but my question now is, its 3
may 2020, are you still using it ?
I have an identical printer from Aldi and very happy with it. I am puzzled with your comments on cleaning the glue. The bed on my printer is steel and the mat is magnetic. To clean it I just lift off the mat and wash it under cold water. Have you checked that yours is not the same? My printer is identical in every other respect. It even came with 2 spare mats. My mats have exactly the same markings as yours with the exception of the brand name.
Just wanted you to know that tjanks to your tips it has helped me to be prepared for my first successful prints!! Thank you so much! The mods helped with stabilizing the print bed and guiding of the filament.
to level bed put a piece of paper under a corner move the nozzel over then paper then ajust until you feel resistance repeat for each corner
Hello sir and thank you for sharing your knowledge. About the aftr-cleaning of residue .... I found that cleaning with baby tissues at the end of the print does a great job.
Excellent video. If we want to get info, a long video, like yours, is better so no apology is necessary. Thank you.
I've found the printing bug can bite you even on regular printing 😂. I have always enjoyed printing anything and I'll tell you when you buy your first highend dye based ink photo printer and manage to clean the printhead and it starts to work again, there is no better feeling 😂
If you want to print bigger things you can put the thing you want to print in tinker cad, split it in half, and design it so the half’s will snap together after you print it
watched both your print vids. I know nothing of 3d. but a C note and you are getting better prints than I buy on ebay for R/C parts. Seems as if it could pay for it's self pretty quick if one were into that.
Actually, I love 1/10 drift rc cars. I got one on the way and can't wait to print custom parts for it. One could make stuff to pay the printer off for sure, it's kinda cool.
Nice. Can you or do you know how to rc drift? I can not to save my butt
9:30, No bed is perfect. On My Vertex I have a 0.4mm and 105% extrusion on the first layer, that way I get full adhesion on the first layer.
As for the gear shift; start with a sphere, cut the markings 2mm deep, then add another sphere 2mm smaller in diameter. That way, all of the markings will be 1mm deep.
20.01, the glue is working well, quite well. For tools and mechanical parts I go 100% infill. It's expensive, but it guarantees that it will be fit for purpose.
Hey man, quite well done!
A few suggestions though;
1) Don't feed your dog PLA. Unless of course you don't like him.
2) Don't expose your lovely family to the fumes created during the print. Unless of course you don't like them.
3) place some insulation between your nice desk and the base of the printer. Unless of course you don't like the desk.
Doesnt pla have no harmful fumes when printed in this style?
I'm guessing by now you know about acetone smoothing for parts? Great vid!
i recommend getting a glass build plate, there a lot easier to use.
When you want a bigger printer, you have to make it yourself by a RepRap. But cool start in the world of 3d printing, maybe I will buy one if they are so cheap for beginners.
Yeah man welcome to the community of 3D printing man welcome
Great tips and such. I don't own this printer (am considering buying) but appreciate the update/demo
Check out why i think the Monoprice select mini V2 is worth the price
found one with a heated bed. i'll prolly grab that one. making some NES game dust covers (cover the tips only) and maybe a new case for my unfinished NES Portable project from years back. so much to make........
Hi Just Vlad,
Can you release or post a video how you create your models, please? I am fascinated with this new way of creating things. Thanks for your awesome videos and keep up with the good work!
I get hatch box pla its a little more expensive but its good and pacaged properly. Also i recomend geting a glass bed for that printer there pritty cheap and you wont rusk runing any electronics with the alchohol
I weld parts like this together using a soldering iron. Read-up on the technique on RUclips. Another option would be hot glue. If you can have a thick bead on the outside it should work fine.
Does anybody else notice that the horizontal rail/guide bar is a bit off (tilted down) - or - is it just a trick of the camera angle? Not a bad machine though ... I bet there is a mechanical adjustment for the arm (somewhere) vs. leveling the table but that might void the warranty ;)
William DiGiacomo this looks like a wanhau machine and mine is sloped too
The cheapest price fir this printer on your Amazon link and direct from Monoprice is $179
Would you recommend this for a beginner?
2:06 "the best solution" ... I see what ya did there...the puns...
because if you're not part of the solution... you're part of the precipitate..... ;-)
try some silk PLA, looks very nice
Bro I think is glue not necessary try to print first 5 layers with %50 speed I am doing like that and I don't have any problem like layer shift , snapping or seperation. Glue will be wear down your printing mat.
Can youbplz provide me the link where I can buy this printer for almost 100 dollies?
I really want to buy it. Nice and very informative video👍👍👍
My first printer I got like 3 years ago.
Yes, it's a bug, I'd be printing since morning to night.... Hardly any sleep
you where leveling each corner and printing without rechecking the other corners after you leveled the other ones you to recheck what youve already done
If you are having a problem with bed heating, I suggest you reach out to Tech Support for assistance. According to the specs, this unit does have a heated bed.
I think the MK2 has a heated bed. This one is a MK1 which does not.
@@ian1957ruth I have a V1. Plus I checked. Bed and platform is the same thing
Great vid. Thank you.
What about a pad on the bed? They sell them online
While I am not used to the XYZ axis points or way of thinking since I hardly use those in everyday life. What is the overall width of a project the the printer can handle? That is from the tower to the outer part of the limb? Then from front to back with the bed being able to move forward and reverse? Then, how thick can a project be? For example, can the project be 1 inch or 5 inches thick (2.5 or 12.7 cm)?
I suggest a high grit piece of sand paper to clean up the bottom of the 3d printed parts
xrobotsuk makes some big stuff. He uses acetone to glue the pieces together.
Acetone does work with most plastics, but not all.
The store on eBay that sells it at the $99 price is sold out as is there monoprice delta printer at $139.
Like you I also keep my filament spools in zip loc freezer bags with a dessicant package for any filament that is not in use. There are lots of filament guides one can print. I used Thingiverse #2080717. There are a few versions that include a holder for something to wipe the filament as it enters the extruder to remove any dust that may have settled on the filament. I also printed out a different spool holder that allows the filament to go straight in to the extruder from the spool (thingiverse items #1816995).
I do not know where you got this printer for $100. On the links you provided, this is almost twice the $100 price mentioned.
where did you get it for 100 ? or did you get it use or open box ... thanx great vid
If the filaments are too delicate to be left in the open, how long will the 3d-prints survive?
The filament shouldn't be left out because plastics absorb moisture and swell, which messes up the extrusion. It's not like the plastic is gonna break from being left out, it just goes bad for 3d printing
Which was the "bang for the buck" 3D printer you mentioned in the end?
Great tips.
Keep us updated on the DC motor..I would love to see it!
If you look closer, you can see that it is not a DC motor.
He even says that it is a "magnet motor"
I would guess that it is a Parandev replica of some sort.
The clue I used to determine this is the angled magnet slots in the rotors.
OOps, my badd spelling. Should be "Parendev" magnet motor
6:20 just described my case I bought a net a8 then a cubepro duo and I'm building a tarantula i3 as I'm writing this =)
Only thing you're missing is an Ender 3. You'll have a hard time looking back after that.
it's called"layer shift"
Have you found (and used) any firmware upgrades for this model? 1/8 glass can be cut by you local glass co for only a couple dollars, but the leveling screw heads are slightly above bed level, So need to deal with that if you use glass. May be worth researching. ENJOY your VIDEOS! Happy Holidays. Also best to unplug the printer when using any liquids, etc.
PS...might be worth having 2 cut at the same time since the cost is minimal. Some may also consider LEXAN (or polycarbonate) plan on about 2.5 - 3 x the cost of the same size glass but still VERY reasonable.
Starts at 1:20
I use water based paper glue stick. Comes right off with luke warm water, no solvents needed :)
Idle check of ebay in UK the next model up to this is being sold for £15.11 ($25) including shipping - so thought worth a purchase.... but being so cheap waiting to see if its a scam...... if not YAY ! Seller seems to have a few of them apparently new not second hand.
Hey :) Nice Review! It gives a great overview what is possible with the printer!
I recently bought the Dublicator i3 Mini and also tried the boat "Benchy". Unfortunately the print result was not as nice as in your video. Is it possible that you could tell me your slicer settings for "Benchy" (speed, extruder temperature, layer thickness, etc.) so I can see if it is due to my setup?
Did you finally upgrade the bed to glass?
this machine prints petg after u print up the block/partcooling adapter flawlessly pretty much. slower speeds 100.5 flow and retraction at 4.5/35 im printing the hero 3 block/partcooling adapter for the sooway which for me is suffering from heat creep or something, bc the thing prints flawlessy for the first 20 mintues then it starts to clunk and extrusion stops soon after..
With your broken spool, if only you had a method to design and create something to hold that filament. . . I kid. In reality I'd say either print a new spool in a couple pieces and glue it together, glue your existing spool back together, or transfer it to an old spool once you empty it
Why not put a sheet of glass on the bed ?
Would like to see a video on the software needed/used to do the designing with, cost of programs? if there are free programs etc, most I have seen cost $3000 or more
I would suggest fusion 360, You can get a free license as a hobbyist. I use Solidworks at my workplace whitch is one of the stupid expensive programs you talk about, and I am impressed at how much fusion 360 can do!!!
Use PC material filament for vacume wheels .they will last longer!!
Since you have some room to lower the bed could you get a cheap piece of glass for the surface platform?
That's a great idea! I'll see if I can get a piece of glass from somewhere. Thanks
@@JustVlads Check your local ACE hardware or DO IT BEST hardware for glass. Take the measurements of the bed so you can get it cut to size, secure it to the bed with the style of alligator clips used to hold office papers together in a short stack. This will allow you to easily remove the glass for more thorough cleaning.
How do you start out your measurement.to print somthing.
Hey Vlad,
Your link doesn't lead to the exact printer you are working with. Could you please update your source.
Many thanks
The i3 mini sold out and is not available at the moment. If i see it again I'll let everyone know with a post.
Where are these for sale for $ 100.00 ?
Nice where did you get it?
Fix your spools with 3 sec glue and spray baking soda over it, it gets rock sollid. Tip from CIA
Cyanoacrylate aka super glue or crazy glue plus baking soda. its also used when repairing chips in carbon fiber plane props and then sanded down smooth. really strong stuff.
@@carls.6746Also helps fix old bakelite radio cabinets if they are chipped.
I've just got my first 3D printer and I've been upgrading it little by little, is very fun. Yours is nice though prints amazing, I can't get mine to print that way I think is because there is bed level issues and I'm still learning to use the filament I've got. Any way nice video! :)