A viewer, Michael Thompson, pointed out a stupid mistake I made while reassembling the agitator shaft on this transmission. I unlisted the original video and made an edit to correct this mistake, and I am reposting it now. I hope my error didn't cause any problems for anyone that used the original video to rebuild their shaft assembly. If so, I sincerely apologize for the mistake and ask your forgiveness. Thanks again to Michael for being so observant and catching this error.
So, if you look in the description, you will find a link to the Whirlpool manual that will explain this better than I can. Check out pages 10 through 16. It's a fascinating piece of engineering. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your great video. Thanks also for the link to the Whirlpool document that explained how the transmission works. I was trying to find something to confirm I had reassembled my transmission correctly before adding the new oil, and the document you provided explained it. I had taken the transmission completely apart, replaced several seals, and the neutral pack.
Great video. After reading through the tech publication and watching this video I have a good understanding of how this transmission works. I have a KitchenAid Model KAWE777BWHO which is 30 years old, and lately I have noticed a clunking noise when the machine is in the agitate mode. I know that the agitator spline on the top of the shaft and the teeth inside the top of the plastic agitator are OK, so I am assuming that the clunking noise is coming from the backlash of the gears inside the transmission. So, it could be the spline on the bottom of the agitator shaft, the mating spline on the inside of the agitate gear, the teeth on the O.D. of the agitate gear or the teeth on the Connecting Rack. After 30 years of use there certainly would have to be some wear on all these parts and the total backlash is probably due to the wear on all of them. The machine is still in fine shape, and rather than look at purchasing a new washing machine right now, I figured that I could repair it. I was considering purchasing a replacement transmission rather than trying to do a rebuild. All the parts that I have found are advertised as Genuine OEM Whirlpool parts. However, after reading some of the reviews, there are many nightmare stories about the new transmission only lasting for a year or two and then failing. Many people reported that the new transmission is also incredibly noisy as compared to the original part. With that being the case, I thought that perhaps just replacing the parts that are the most likely cause of the clunking noise, the Agitator Shaft Assembly, and the Connecting Rack. I found several places where I can get the Agitator Shaft Assembly for around $100, but no one has the Connecting Rack. Changing the Agitator Shaft would eliminate everything that could contribute to the backlash except for the Connecting Rack. With all the work that you have done with this transmission, I would be interested to know your thoughts about the likelihood of the teeth on the connecting rack wearing down. Have you ever encountered that issue with any of your repairs? If not, then it would probably be a good bet that if I replace the agitator shaft assembly the clunking noise would be gone. I would also be interested to know if you have used any of the replacement transmissions lately and how well they have performed as well as how noisy they are. Thanks.
I have fixed the noise issue by replacing the agitator shaft along with all of the bottom components. They sell the shafts completely assembled and that is the most economical way to purchase them. I have never had to buy a new transmission before on account of having numerous salvaged ones to choose from so I can’t answer your second question. Thanks for watching!
Great, This video filled in small but very important facts and descriptions that make a big difference between a box of parts and a working Transmission. Thank You for sharing your knowledge. This info isn't or I should say wasn't available without a mechanic with years of training willing to allow you to watch taking apart, cleaning, fixing and putting back together The Right Way!
Love your videos and sharing your experience. Question i bought a used wirpool washer five years ago without a model#. It's a Kenmore Elite and i guessing 20 or so years old.appliance store not helpful even with recipe.
@@HarperandKnowles I bought a used Kenmore washer a few years back . Now l need parts but model #tag had been removed and the used appliance store isn't helping. Its a Kenmore Elite maby 20 years or so old. Got any ideas.
All of those units use the same parts. The timers are different but the part numbers are on the timers. For the most part each component is interchangeable. If you want to, you can find the part numbers on the bigger components. So if you were to change the motor all you really need to do is count the wire conductors on the switch interface and another Whirlpool motor with the same number of wires will work regardless of the part number. Good luck on your rebuild.
Sure, there’s more to come. Meanwhile you might checkout our playlist for more information. Washer and Dryer Repair Business Training ruclips.net/p/PLqGjxeuQrTmm8N3KpP8UBkgSIPwpQTaCB Thanks for watt and for your kind comment too!
Got a question for you. I’m trying my hand at rebuilding one right now thanks to your great video. The issue I have is , when I pulled the agitator shaft out of its location in the gear box, there wasn’t steel ball or disc. Is it possible that some don’t have them?
The disc is probably still at the bottom of the hole with the ball underneath. Try using a magnet to fish them out. No, it’s not possible. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever found a mouse nest in the gearcase of a vmw top load washer, it was giving a f7e1 code ,washer was sensing only ,that's when I found it taking the actuator off,I blew it all out
Yes, I have. The trash the rodent drags in will interfere with the tachometer to give you a big problem unless you figure out what’s happening. Thanks for watching!
Thank you that was helpful. I wish it had covered my issue but i dont even know what my issue is lol that why i was watching vids lol. I went to replace the clutch and the trans wont seat for me to get the bolts in. Its 1/4" space. Looks like the pinion gear is hitting in the center of the machine. Im thinking something went wrong in the trans or i did something when pulling it. The pinion is clearly hitting the cemter of the "tub". Basically if the pinion were inside the trans a little farther it would mount up. I was hoping id see something in your vid. Also the pinion gear can easily be lifted up and down.
The spin cam (white plastic thing on the spin tube) might be hitting the clutch spring. Also if you twist the spin cam to disengage the brake pads you can push the spin tube up into the brake drum where it should be. Both of these conditions will prevent the transmission from seating on the bolt post. Good luck with your repair and thanks for watching!
Thankfully, there are people like you that still pay attention to details and share. Mine only turns counter clockwise with zero back and forth agitation and a lot of grating noise while doing so. Are parts still available to do a refresh and reliably repair the agitation drive? Or should I buy an OEM for $175 plus tax, or a Corecentric Solutions Re-manufactured for $155? As the rebuilding parts seem to be close to the cost of new/re-manufactured? Thank you kindly for any experienced guidance you can offer!
I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II (model LSQ8243HQ0) that I got for cheap from my previous manager. He said he had to replace the motor coupler or something like that in the past. I used it for like 2 years. Over a year ago now (since I have procrastinated a ton) something happened so that when the machine gets to the spin cycle, the agitator is not disconnecting. It trying to spin with the basket and after like 180 degrees or something, it slams backwards violently, repeatedly. It makes a loud slamming noise. some people have told me it's a bad clutch. Other people say it's the agitator cam in the transmission. I took half of the transmission and clutch apart a week ago. It looked like the plastic piece in the middle of the clutch had one of the two tiny cylinders broken. It seemed a little loose/wobbly, which I assume would be not good. It looks like the arm of the plastic piece hits the band in the clutch, causing the spring to compress, and slip (just guessing). I did take the transmission case top off, but I didn't dig any deeper than that. I will try to do that sometime this week or so. I want to make sure I have the correct defective part identified before dropping $120+ on a new agitator cam/shaft assembly or something.
Yeah, you need to replace the transmission. It sounds like it’s messed up. Buy a clutch kit too. That plastic cam is supposed to contact the spring inside the clutch bell. That’s what transfers power to the spin tube. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles I took the entire transmission apart. The oil was black, and everything was coated in black grime. I used a whole roll of paper towels cleaning everything. I found that the splines on the agitator/drum shaft are a little deformed because of wear-and-tear or something going wrong. When I manually rotate the plastic disengage pieces so that the agitator should be disengaged, there is still a little bit of friction between the splines of the shaft and the half gear that drives the agitator. also, one of the plastic pieces of the neutral drain mechanism looks like it might be deformed/worn. IDK if that's from wear-and-tear or from something else going wrong. So I have narrowed down the problem to a few parts.
You need to change that shaft and all the parts attached to it and replace the neutral drain kit too. You might find a transmission cheaper than the cost of the repair.
@@HarperandKnowles do you know if it's possible to buy only the "spin pawl" plastic part? that's the only part in the neutral drain assembly that looks deformed.
Great video!! Just rebuilt my first one, I refurbished and sell washers and dryers as a side hustle on the weekends, I have a quick question, would it hurt to use 75W-140 gear oil to fill the transmission? I live in Florida and doesn’t get really cold here.
I would use a good 90 weight oil. The seals are engineered for the heavier oil and a lesser viscosity might cause weeping or leaking as the machine is operated. Here is a link for the original oil in the correct quantity Whirlpool 350572 Oil Gear Case a.co/d/1H2Z5go. Thanks for watching!
One more question- I see that on the spin cycle the shaft is not moving when the clutch is not installed - is that because the clutch is what spins the tub? Not the shaft? Thank you!
Appreciate the responses - When would it be recommended to replace the neutral drain kit? I am planning on only replacing clutch as the washer does drain properly but fails to spin on the spin cycle. Opened up the transmission but everything seems to be working fine.
The helix gear on the shaft just wobbles a bit when the coupling is turned in the clockwise direction seems to lock up which i believe is what is supposed to happen
I did a partial rebuild, to install a Neutral Drain Kit. After reassembly of transmission, before installing back into the tub, is their suppose to be a little wobble in the agitator drive shaft or is it suppose to be stiff with no play relative to the transmission casing? Thanks
There will be some give where the shaft comes through the pinion gear seal. Once it slides through the spin tube and is bolted down the shaft is secured and centered. Thanks for watching!
I had problem with clothes not getting the water drained out well enough. Went to replace clutch, but it seemed solid. Not easy to turn, so it wasnt slipping. I replaced it since I had already ordered the part. I noticed it does neutral drain, but won't spin unless I push the dial in, then it starts spinning and then right away I pull dial back out and it works as normal. What should I be going after, the dial, the transmission, or something else? The transmission had no oil on outside of housing, so the seals should all be good and it shouldnt be contaminated inside transmission.
Chip, excellent guide video. Helped me tare down inspect and replace the neutral drain. Sadly, I'm still having issues where the machine spins fast during the wash-agitate cycle. Transmission splines and gears all look fine. Shaft functions properly by hand turning both directions. The parts select folks are saying its the clutch that needs to be replaced but the clutch pads seem fine and is functioning since the machine drains and spins normal on that cycle. Any thoughts or recommendations?
I’m not sure what’s happening but I suspect the clattering is a clue. Let’s call it a transmission problem and probably a serious problem. I can’t understand why it would be spinning if the motor is turning in the agitation direction though. Perhaps the shift actuator inside the transmission has a bent or damaged fork that is preventing the transmission to shift into agitate.
@@HarperandKnowles While I had it apart last I did a complete taredown and they seemed to push and pull given their respective directions but I can check again. I'm thinking it's the transmission too and I might just bight the bullet and buy a new one. I was curious about the timers function but it seems to operate correctly for the other phases like spin.
@urukhaiattack Did you get it fixed? That’s the same symptoms I have. Spinning clockwise in agitate cycle with knocking sound, all other cycles work fine.
Is it normal for the drive shaft to wobble a bit off of its axis as the gears move? Or does that mean that the shaft isn’t secured to the base of the transmission as designed? Thanks!
Thank you Elegant! And a very Merry Christmas to you too! Amana has about 1/4 of his plumage grown in. It will probably be March before he’s ready to strut.
Hi Chip, question on an issue. If I put the washer in spin with water in the basket the machine starts spinning but not draining. It never actually drains the water out. I do see the pump being driven by the motor and the impeller is turning ( looks like ) . But again no draining going on. What I don’t get is how can this be a neutral drain issue if it seems the motor is driving the pump. I’m prob missing something. Thanks in advance for looking!
You might have something stuck in the drain hose that is preventing it to drain or the drain pump is bad. Your machine should agitate, stop, start up in neutral and drain, then stop and start again in spin. If it doesn’t follow that sequence then the neutral drain is not working.
Hi Chip, I’m thinking I might have a motor issue. Reason being when the washer fills with water in wash mode, it immediately is drain the water out, before agitating. I’m noticing the moter is turning g the pump and draining when it should be holding water to begin the wash cycle.
The pump should be turning in a reverse direction during the agitation cycle. I’m thinking you have a plumbing issue. Watch this video for clues. How To Troubleshoot Washing Machine Cycle Failures: Plumbing Tips for Technicians ruclips.net/video/OBZcWzOj0Ig/видео.html.
I’ve watched a couple of your washer transmission repair videos and I have a question? I took my transmission out and I bought a new motor cause the motor shaft got ate up part way some how and my clutch is worn out so I replaced the clutch and before I had brains I just pulled up on the clutch a couple times to see if that’s how it was removed! Duh!! Well once I opened the new clutch read upaper and I removed the clip and did all my work as needed. Well once I went to put the trans back in it’s about 3/4” of an inch to far away! And it’s the washer on the clutch hitting the C clip end boss of the brake tube. So do I need to take the top of the transmission apart and get the pinion to drop back down in place and then reassemble everything and put the clutch back on or is there a way that if I just keep rotating it back-and-forth it should drop back down in place. HELP PLEASE???
The pinion gear should drop down easy enough without disassembling. I can’t imagine what’s going on here. The only problem I’ve ever had is when the clutch spring hits the brake cam. Then just rotate it out of the way. Or turn the brake cam counter clockwise while pushing the spin tube to seat it in the brake drum. It may have fallen down a bit. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles Yea I’ve made sure it wasn’t the brake lever hitting the spring. It’s the washer covering the clip on top of the clutch hitting the brass bottom of the brake tube. I can’t figure out what has gone wrong. I’ve checked part numbers and my clutch parts are correct going by the numbers and matching them up to my old ones! I’m just dumb founded here. Can you tell the distance between the bottom of the clutch and the top of the transmission cover so I know if everything there on mine is correct? I’d really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
If the teeth on the pinion gear match the slots in the clutch bell, retainer ring is snapped in place, C clip slid into grooves on transmission shaft, dust cover (washer) in place with the pins down and the spin tube has had the brake shoes retracted and pushed as far as possible into the center post then it should work.
Several things. The trip lever spring can break, the button on the spin gear can wear out, the spin paul can wear out, the spin gear teeth can strip. Pick one. Thank for watching!
@HarperandKnowles ok ,Thanks ,I've watched several videos about those transmissions, but hardly anyone says why they quit working ,I've heard noises, and the tub spins differently, just curious
I’ve discovered they don’t even sell the agitate cam kit part (285206) anymore and want you to buy the whole shaft part# WP389387. Some of the parts sites are incorrectly showing the photo of the cam but you’re actually getting the entire shaft assembly.
@@HarperandKnowles I am in Jamaica and want to take this opportunity to thank you for the videos you have uploaded they have inspired me as a young technician in the repair and servicing field.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts with me! It's truly heartwarming to hear that my videos have been a source of inspiration for you in Jamaica. As a young technician, embarking on the journey into the repair and servicing field is both challenging and rewarding, and I'm thrilled to be a part of your journey. Remember, every machine you repair is a testament to your growing expertise and dedication to your craft. Please continue to reach out with your experiences, questions, or if you simply want to share more of your progress. Your enthusiasm and commitment to learning are what drive me to create more helpful content. Best wishes on your journey ahead, and keep up the fantastic work!
That sounds like the spring inside a seal. There is one that fits in the groove inside the seal where the agitator shaft goes through the transmission housing cover. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Do you incorporate your rebuilt transmissions into service calls that can be used for clients or do you only use these rebuilt transmissions for washers you are fixing and selling?
Thank you for your question! We do both. We incorporate our rebuilt transmissions into service calls for clients, as well as use them to fix machines that we then resell. We believe in offering high-quality repairs and products to our customers, and using our rebuilt transmissions allows us to do that while also being cost-effective. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Hey Chip, I have a question. I fixed my noisy machine I spoke to you about before by replacing the brake shoes and also using my spare gearbox. I pulled the original gearbox apart completely, and found no issues with it. Just tried to re-assemble it, and I'm not sure about one of the thrust washers. Is there a thrust washer under the main drive gear on the gear case? I didn't see one on your video, and the drawing doesn't show one. Cheers, David
How are things in Australia? About mid summer down there? It got pretty cold the week of Christmas here. Record low temperatures. A lot of busted inlet valves. Business was good!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks Chip, I'll have to find out where the extra thrust washer goes then. No good having spares left! Yes, midsummer here, but not too hot this year. Here in Qld we can have up to 40 deg C, but mostly around low 30s at the moment. We heard about the big freeze in the US, usually means we will have a cold one too. I guess there was a silver lining to your cloud anyway 😀
Sometimes the spin gear has two on it below the snap ring. I think it shows in the diagram too. It’s pretty common, I guess it’s a manufacturing quirk.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks Chip. yes, I guessed that might be the case, as there was a bit of play with the spin gear on the shaft with only one washer.
@@HarperandKnowlesI just tore a transmission apart thinking I could use parts to repair another one. It had metal parts broken. I can’t remember the name of the metal part that broken and twisted, but I think someone tried rebuilding it and did not align the timing marks. First time I have seen this.
nothing goes to the junk from me unless it is broken or worn out i save the case top i clean it and have new seal ready to go when i work on a different transmission and drop it on
Thanks for the feedback! I'll avoid smashing any buttons in the future - wouldn't want to hurt my hand. 😅 If gentle persuasion is more your style, consider lightly tapping that subscribe button. No pressure - only if you're into non-aggressive, friendly reminders! But, seriously I understand how repetitive calls to action can sometimes feel a bit much. My goal is to create content that you genuinely enjoy and find worth subscribing to. If you have any suggestions or particular content you'd love to see more of, please let me know! Your support means the world, and every tap on the subscribe button is like a high-five for the work put into these videos. 🌟 Thanks for watching and thanks for the constructive criticism too!
A viewer, Michael Thompson, pointed out a stupid mistake I made while reassembling the agitator shaft on this transmission. I unlisted the original video and made an edit to correct this mistake, and I am reposting it now. I hope my error didn't cause any problems for anyone that used the original video to rebuild their shaft assembly. If so, I sincerely apologize for the mistake and ask your forgiveness. Thanks again to Michael for being so observant and catching this error.
So can you explain how it operates
So, if you look in the description, you will find a link to the Whirlpool manual that will explain this better than I can. Check out pages 10 through 16. It's a fascinating piece of engineering. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your great video. Thanks also for the link to the Whirlpool document that explained how the transmission works. I was trying to find something to confirm I had reassembled my transmission correctly before adding the new oil, and the document you provided explained it. I had taken the transmission completely apart, replaced several seals, and the neutral pack.
I’m glad it was helpful. And thanks for watching and commenting! Carry on!
Great video. After reading through the tech publication and watching this video I have a good understanding of how this transmission works.
I have a KitchenAid Model KAWE777BWHO which is 30 years old, and lately I have noticed a clunking noise when the machine is in the agitate mode. I know that the agitator spline on the top of the shaft and the teeth inside the top of the plastic agitator are OK, so I am assuming that the clunking noise is coming from the backlash of the gears inside the transmission. So, it could be the spline on the bottom of the agitator shaft, the mating spline on the inside of the agitate gear, the teeth on the O.D. of the agitate gear or the teeth on the Connecting Rack. After 30 years of use there certainly would have to be some wear on all these parts and the total backlash is probably due to the wear on all of them. The machine is still in fine shape, and rather than look at purchasing a new washing machine right now, I figured that I could repair it. I was considering purchasing a replacement transmission rather than trying to do a rebuild. All the parts that I have found are advertised as Genuine OEM Whirlpool parts. However, after reading some of the reviews, there are many nightmare stories about the new transmission only lasting for a year or two and then failing. Many people reported that the new transmission is also incredibly noisy as compared to the original part. With that being the case, I thought that perhaps just replacing the parts that are the most likely cause of the clunking noise, the Agitator Shaft Assembly, and the Connecting Rack. I found several places where I can get the Agitator Shaft Assembly for around $100, but no one has the Connecting Rack. Changing the Agitator Shaft would eliminate everything that could contribute to the backlash except for the Connecting Rack. With all the work that you have done with this transmission, I would be interested to know your thoughts about the likelihood of the teeth on the connecting rack wearing down. Have you ever encountered that issue with any of your repairs? If not, then it would probably be a good bet that if I replace the agitator shaft assembly the clunking noise would be gone.
I would also be interested to know if you have used any of the replacement transmissions lately and how well they have performed as well as how noisy they are. Thanks.
I have fixed the noise issue by replacing the agitator shaft along with all of the bottom components. They sell the shafts completely assembled and that is the most economical way to purchase them. I have never had to buy a new transmission before on account of having numerous salvaged ones to choose from so I can’t answer your second question. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for doing this, it helped us out immensely! Wife is now happy, don't have to say any more!
Thanks for watching!
Great, This video filled in small but very important facts and descriptions that make a big difference between a box of parts and a working Transmission. Thank You for sharing your knowledge. This info isn't or I should say wasn't available without a mechanic with years of training willing to allow you to watch taking apart, cleaning, fixing and putting back together The Right Way!
I’m glad the video helped you. Thanks for watching it and for the kind words too!
Love your videos and sharing your experience. Question i bought a used wirpool washer five years ago without a model#. It's a Kenmore Elite and i guessing 20 or so years old.appliance store not helpful even with recipe.
You had a question?
@@HarperandKnowles I bought a used Kenmore washer a few years back . Now l need parts but model #tag had been removed and the used appliance store isn't helping. Its a Kenmore Elite maby 20 years or so old. Got any ideas.
All of those units use the same parts. The timers are different but the part numbers are on the timers. For the most part each component is interchangeable. If you want to, you can find the part numbers on the bigger components. So if you were to change the motor all you really need to do
is count the wire conductors on the switch interface and another Whirlpool motor with the same number of wires will work regardless of the part number. Good luck on your rebuild.
Great video!!! Can you do more rebuild clips? The direct drive transmissions are fascinating..
Sure, there’s more to come. Meanwhile you might checkout our playlist for more information. Washer and Dryer Repair Business Training
ruclips.net/p/PLqGjxeuQrTmm8N3KpP8UBkgSIPwpQTaCB Thanks for watt and for your kind comment too!
Got a question for you. I’m trying my hand at rebuilding one right now thanks to your great video. The issue I have is , when I pulled the agitator shaft out of its location in the gear box, there wasn’t steel ball or disc. Is it possible that some don’t have them?
The disc is probably still at the bottom of the hole with the ball underneath. Try using a magnet to fish them out. No, it’s not possible. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever found a mouse nest in the gearcase of a vmw top load washer, it was giving a f7e1 code ,washer was sensing only ,that's when I found it taking the actuator off,I blew it all out
Yes, I have. The trash the rodent drags in will interfere with the tachometer to give you a big problem unless you figure out what’s happening. Thanks for watching!
Thank you that was helpful. I wish it had covered my issue but i dont even know what my issue is lol that why i was watching vids lol. I went to replace the clutch and the trans wont seat for me to get the bolts in. Its 1/4" space. Looks like the pinion gear is hitting in the center of the machine. Im thinking something went wrong in the trans or i did something when pulling it. The pinion is clearly hitting the cemter of the "tub". Basically if the pinion were inside the trans a little farther it would mount up. I was hoping id see something in your vid. Also the pinion gear can easily be lifted up and down.
The spin cam (white plastic thing on the spin tube) might be hitting the clutch spring. Also if you twist the spin cam to disengage the brake pads you can push the spin tube up into the brake drum where it should be. Both of these conditions will prevent the transmission from seating on the bolt post. Good luck with your repair and thanks for watching!
Thankfully, there are people like you that still pay attention to details and share. Mine only turns counter clockwise with zero back and forth agitation and a lot of grating noise while doing so. Are parts still available to do a refresh and reliably repair the agitation drive? Or should I buy an OEM for $175 plus tax, or a Corecentric Solutions Re-manufactured for $155? As the rebuilding parts seem to be close to the cost of new/re-manufactured? Thank you kindly for any experienced guidance you can offer!
The remanufactured option is what I would do. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you! Should be here by Monday.
I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II (model LSQ8243HQ0) that I got for cheap from my previous manager. He said he had to replace the motor coupler or something like that in the past. I used it for like 2 years. Over a year ago now (since I have procrastinated a ton) something happened so that when the machine gets to the spin cycle, the agitator is not disconnecting. It trying to spin with the basket and after like 180 degrees or something, it slams backwards violently, repeatedly. It makes a loud slamming noise. some people have told me it's a bad clutch. Other people say it's the agitator cam in the transmission. I took half of the transmission and clutch apart a week ago. It looked like the plastic piece in the middle of the clutch had one of the two tiny cylinders broken. It seemed a little loose/wobbly, which I assume would be not good. It looks like the arm of the plastic piece hits the band in the clutch, causing the spring to compress, and slip (just guessing). I did take the transmission case top off, but I didn't dig any deeper than that. I will try to do that sometime this week or so. I want to make sure I have the correct defective part identified before dropping $120+ on a new agitator cam/shaft assembly or something.
Yeah, you need to replace the transmission. It sounds like it’s messed up. Buy a clutch kit too. That plastic cam is supposed to contact the spring inside the clutch bell. That’s what transfers power to the spin tube. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles I took the entire transmission apart. The oil was black, and everything was coated in black grime. I used a whole roll of paper towels cleaning everything. I found that the splines on the agitator/drum shaft are a little deformed because of wear-and-tear or something going wrong. When I manually rotate the plastic disengage pieces so that the agitator should be disengaged, there is still a little bit of friction between the splines of the shaft and the half gear that drives the agitator. also, one of the plastic pieces of the neutral drain mechanism looks like it might be deformed/worn. IDK if that's from wear-and-tear or from something else going wrong. So I have narrowed down the problem to a few parts.
You need to change that shaft and all the parts attached to it and replace the neutral drain kit too. You might find a transmission cheaper than the cost of the repair.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks
@@HarperandKnowles do you know if it's possible to buy only the "spin pawl" plastic part? that's the only part in the neutral drain assembly that looks deformed.
How do you remove a stuck inner basket from a kenmore direct drive washer?
Look at this video starting at 19:30. It will show you my method. Thanks for watching!
Great video!! Just rebuilt my first one, I refurbished and sell washers and dryers as a side hustle on the weekends, I have a quick question, would it hurt to use 75W-140 gear oil to fill the transmission? I live in Florida and doesn’t get really cold here.
I would use a good 90 weight oil. The seals are engineered for the heavier oil and a lesser viscosity might cause weeping or leaking as the machine is operated. Here is a link for the original oil in the correct quantity Whirlpool 350572 Oil Gear Case a.co/d/1H2Z5go. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for the quick response, I will definitely get some 90 weight!, Your videos are extremely helpful, thank you for making them.
One more question- I see that on the spin cycle the shaft is not moving when the clutch is not installed - is that because the clutch is what spins the tub? Not the shaft?
Thank you!
That is correct. During the spin cycle the shaft is disengaged and the clutch transfers power to the spin tube.
Appreciate the responses - When would it be recommended to replace the neutral drain kit? I am planning on only replacing clutch as the washer does drain properly but fails to spin on the spin cycle. Opened up the transmission but everything seems to be working fine.
The helix gear on the shaft just wobbles a bit when the coupling is turned in the clockwise direction seems to lock up which i believe is what is supposed to happen
I did a partial rebuild, to install a Neutral Drain Kit. After reassembly of transmission, before installing back into the tub, is their suppose to be a little wobble in the agitator drive shaft or is it suppose to be stiff with no play relative to the transmission casing? Thanks
There will be some give where the shaft comes through the pinion gear seal. Once it slides through the spin tube and is bolted down the shaft is secured and centered. Thanks for watching!
I had problem with clothes not getting the water drained out well enough. Went to replace clutch, but it seemed solid. Not easy to turn, so it wasnt slipping. I replaced it since I had already ordered the part. I noticed it does neutral drain, but won't spin unless I push the dial in, then it starts spinning and then right away I pull dial back out and it works as normal. What should I be going after, the dial, the transmission, or something else? The transmission had no oil on outside of housing, so the seals should all be good and it shouldnt be contaminated inside transmission.
From what you described I’d suspect the timer. Thanks for watching!
What’s the best cleaning solution for inside the gear case?
Probably kerosene. That’s what they use in parts washers. Thanks for watching!
Chip, excellent guide video. Helped me tare down inspect and replace the neutral drain. Sadly, I'm still having issues where the machine spins fast during the wash-agitate cycle. Transmission splines and gears all look fine. Shaft functions properly by hand turning both directions. The parts select folks are saying its the clutch that needs to be replaced but the clutch pads seem fine and is functioning since the machine drains and spins normal on that cycle. Any thoughts or recommendations?
So, if I’m understanding you correctly the machine spins when it should be agitating?
@@HarperandKnowles That's correct, the starting wash cycle starts out spinning hard clockwise and there is some clattering.
I’m not sure what’s happening but I suspect the clattering is a clue. Let’s call it a transmission problem and probably a serious problem. I can’t understand why it would be spinning if the motor is turning in the agitation direction though. Perhaps the shift actuator inside the transmission has a bent or damaged fork that is preventing the transmission to shift into agitate.
@@HarperandKnowles While I had it apart last I did a complete taredown and they seemed to push and pull given their respective directions but I can check again. I'm thinking it's the transmission too and I might just bight the bullet and buy a new one. I was curious about the timers function but it seems to operate correctly for the other phases like spin.
@urukhaiattack Did you get it fixed? That’s the same symptoms I have. Spinning clockwise in agitate cycle with knocking sound, all other cycles work fine.
Is it normal for the drive shaft to wobble a bit off of its axis as the gears move? Or does that mean that the shaft isn’t secured to the base of the transmission as designed? Thanks!
It is normal. It will stiffen up when inserted through the spin tube.
Yay another vid. I wanted to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas. How are Amana's feathers doing?
Thank you Elegant! And a very Merry Christmas to you too! Amana has about 1/4 of his plumage grown in. It will probably be March before he’s ready to strut.
Hi Chip, question on an issue. If I put the washer in spin with water in the basket the machine starts spinning but not draining. It never actually drains the water out. I do see the pump being driven by the motor and the impeller is turning ( looks like ) . But again no draining going on. What I don’t get is how can this be a neutral drain issue if it seems the motor is driving the pump. I’m prob missing something. Thanks in advance for looking!
Hey, I’m Chip and your question is confusing. Please edit it so I can understand better.
Sorry Chip, I edited my reply. Hoping it makes more sense.
You might have something stuck in the drain hose that is preventing it to drain or the drain pump is bad. Your machine should agitate, stop, start up in neutral and drain, then stop and start again in spin. If it doesn’t follow that sequence then the neutral drain is not working.
Hi Chip, I’m thinking I might have a motor issue. Reason being when the washer fills with water in wash mode, it immediately is drain the water out, before agitating. I’m noticing the moter is turning g the pump and draining when it should be holding water to begin the wash cycle.
The pump should be turning in a reverse direction during the agitation cycle. I’m thinking you have a plumbing issue. Watch this video for clues. How To Troubleshoot Washing Machine Cycle Failures: Plumbing Tips for Technicians
ruclips.net/video/OBZcWzOj0Ig/видео.html.
thanks for the correction . i appreciate that. enjoy your videos.
Thanks for watching them Irish! I’m so embarrassed I goofed that up so badly.
I’ve watched a couple of your washer transmission repair videos and I have a question? I took my transmission out and I bought a new motor cause the motor shaft got ate up part way some how and my clutch is worn out so I replaced the clutch and before I had brains I just pulled up on the clutch a couple times to see if that’s how it was removed! Duh!! Well once I opened the new clutch read upaper and I removed the clip and did all my work as needed. Well once I went to put the trans back in it’s about 3/4” of an inch to far away! And it’s the washer on the clutch hitting the C clip end boss of the brake tube. So do I need to take the top of the transmission apart and get the pinion to drop back down in place and then reassemble everything and put the clutch back on or is there a way that if I just keep rotating it back-and-forth it should drop back down in place.
HELP PLEASE???
The pinion gear should drop down easy enough without disassembling. I can’t imagine what’s going on here. The only problem I’ve ever had is when the clutch spring hits the brake cam. Then just rotate it out of the way. Or turn the brake cam counter clockwise while pushing the spin tube to seat it in the brake drum. It may have fallen down a bit. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles
Yea I’ve made sure it wasn’t the brake lever hitting the spring. It’s the washer covering the clip on top of the clutch hitting the brass bottom of the brake tube. I can’t figure out what has gone wrong. I’ve checked part numbers and my clutch parts are correct going by the numbers and matching them up to my old ones! I’m just dumb founded here. Can you tell the distance between the bottom of the clutch and the top of the transmission cover so I know if everything there on mine is correct?
I’d really appreciate it.
Thank you in advance.
If the teeth on the pinion gear match the slots in the clutch bell, retainer ring is snapped in place, C clip slid into grooves on transmission shaft, dust cover (washer) in place with the pins down and the spin tube has had the brake shoes retracted and pushed as far as possible into the center post then it should work.
@@HarperandKnowlesok thanks
Grab the brake cam, turn counter clockwise to compress the brakes and push it all the way up into the bell
On a direct drive transmission, what is it that goes wrong with the neutral drain kit,that makes it not work correctly?
Several things. The trip lever spring can break, the button on the spin gear can wear out, the spin paul can wear out, the spin gear teeth can strip. Pick one. Thank for watching!
@HarperandKnowles ok ,Thanks ,I've watched several videos about those transmissions, but hardly anyone says why they quit working ,I've heard noises, and the tub spins differently, just curious
Being curious is how we learn! Carry on, my friend!
I’ve discovered they don’t even sell the agitate cam kit part (285206) anymore and want you to buy the whole shaft part# WP389387. Some of the parts sites are incorrectly showing the photo of the cam but you’re actually getting the entire shaft assembly.
That’s good to know. Thanks for sharing!
Is it safe to use that shaft given the burn mark from the spinner tube?
Absolutely safe. You can polish it up with emory cloth if you want it shiny. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles I am in Jamaica and want to take this opportunity to thank you for the videos you have uploaded they have inspired me as a young technician in the repair and servicing field.
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your thoughts with me! It's truly heartwarming to hear that my videos have been a source of inspiration for you in Jamaica. As a young technician, embarking on the journey into the repair and servicing field is both challenging and rewarding, and I'm thrilled to be a part of your journey. Remember, every machine you repair is a testament to your growing expertise and dedication to your craft. Please continue to reach out with your experiences, questions, or if you simply want to share more of your progress. Your enthusiasm and commitment to learning are what drive me to create more helpful content. Best wishes on your journey ahead, and keep up the fantastic work!
So if i need to replace that oil seal on the lid how would I do that?! Help! I cant afford to replace it. I just need that seal.
Perhaps you can search with the part number WP3349985 to find the best deal for a replacement seal. Thanks for watching!
How do you get those 2 C-clips off the transmission shaft to start? I need to replace the broken cam and follower but I can't get them off! Thanks!
You can take two flat blade screwdrivers on either side of the shaft and push the clip sharply downward and they come right off. Thanks for watching!
But what about all the other parts? Mine has a main gear with some sheared off teeth. Where do I buy that?
If the metal gears are damaged that badly just buy a new transmission. a.co/d/6WOD69W
Help!! I found a piece and I don't know where it came from. It's a circle and spring like. Like a rubber band but it's metal and is a super tiny coil.
That sounds like the spring inside a seal. There is one that fits in the groove inside the seal where the agitator shaft goes through the transmission housing cover. Thanks for watching!
Where can I buy a kit with all these parts? What kit number do I need to order?
I put links to all the parts I use in a video in the description. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! Do you incorporate your rebuilt transmissions into service calls that can be used for clients or do you only use these rebuilt transmissions for washers you are fixing and selling?
Thank you for your question! We do both. We incorporate our rebuilt transmissions into service calls for clients, as well as use them to fix machines that we then resell. We believe in offering high-quality repairs and products to our customers, and using our rebuilt transmissions allows us to do that while also being cost-effective. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Hey Chip, I have a question. I fixed my noisy machine I spoke to you about before by replacing the brake shoes and also using my spare gearbox. I pulled the original gearbox apart completely, and found no issues with it. Just tried to re-assemble it, and I'm not sure about one of the thrust washers. Is there a thrust washer under the main drive gear on the gear case? I didn't see one on your video, and the drawing doesn't show one. Cheers, David
No, there isn’t a thrust washer under the main drive gear, part number 285515.
How are things in Australia? About mid summer down there? It got pretty cold the week of Christmas here. Record low temperatures. A lot of busted inlet valves. Business was good!
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks Chip, I'll have to find out where the extra thrust washer goes then. No good having spares left! Yes, midsummer here, but not too hot this year. Here in Qld we can have up to 40 deg C, but mostly around low 30s at the moment. We heard about the big freeze in the US, usually means we will have a cold one too. I guess there was a silver lining to your cloud anyway 😀
Sometimes the spin gear has two on it below the snap ring. I think it shows in the diagram too. It’s pretty common, I guess it’s a manufacturing quirk.
@@HarperandKnowles Thanks Chip. yes, I guessed that might be the case, as there was a bit of play with the spin gear on the shaft with only one washer.
Thanks!
Thanks for the donation! And thanks for watching too!
What's the problem when washer sounds like transmission keeps locking up during spin
Perhaps it is. I couldn’t even make a good guess without hearing it myself though. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowlesI just tore a transmission apart thinking I could use parts to repair another one.
It had metal parts broken. I can’t remember the name of the metal part that broken and twisted, but I think someone tried rebuilding it and did not align the timing marks.
First time I have seen this.
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
nothing goes to the junk from me unless it is broken or worn out i save the case top i clean it and have new seal ready to go when i work on a different transmission and drop it on
That’s a good idea. Thanks for watching!
What kind of gear oil did you use?
I used 90 weight gear oil that I bought at Auto Zone but if you want the authentic stuff here is a link. amzn.to/3RAZ84X.
@@HarperandKnowles thanks that's what I'll actually do is just get the 90w oil. Appreciate it.
I used pipe wrench instead of spinner wrench .
Whatever works for you. Thanks for watching!
Nice video. But please, dude, just don't put those things that say "SMASH THAT SUBSCRIBE BUTTON". It makes me not want to subscribe.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll avoid smashing any buttons in the future - wouldn't want to hurt my hand. 😅 If gentle persuasion is more your style, consider lightly tapping that subscribe button. No pressure - only if you're into non-aggressive, friendly reminders! But, seriously I understand how repetitive calls to action can sometimes feel a bit much. My goal is to create content that you genuinely enjoy and find worth subscribing to. If you have any suggestions or particular content you'd love to see more of, please let me know! Your support means the world, and every tap on the subscribe button is like a high-five for the work put into these videos. 🌟 Thanks for watching and thanks for the constructive criticism too!