Year one was moss and when the snowmelt was done I rolled up the moss leaving bare dirt over the entire lawn, and I started reseeding. Year 4 now, grubs. One shovel from anywhere may have 20 grubs. Entire lawn devasted again. But the Lawn Ginja always has the reason and the solution inspite of my obvious lawn curse. Thanks. Someday I will be able to relax with a simple routine that wins.
Ginja, you are going to TruGreen and Scott lawn care out of business, because I was just going to hire them, but after seeing your video, I am going to try and solve the problem myself. thanks.
Incredibly thorough video. Keeping things in laymen terms and not condescending. I don't have a large scale problem, but my first instinct was to tear up the turf and kill the visible grubs. Thanks for explaining and giving me hope that I don't have to do a replanting/sodding.
A good video you put together. I have one small section of my front lawn under a huge maple tree that gets a problem every summer. I have found small white grubs before but this year couldn’t find any but the grass was dying and some pulled easily. I put down Sevin bug killer and DiseaseX and a few weeks later it’s cleared up. Some thin areas now but overall looking pretty good. Thank you.
Dude, you are the man. I never considered trying to force some growth after some of the damage occurred. Hope my prevention is good and won’t need to repair, but great to know!
Perfect timing! I just found Billbugs and cutworms in my yard yesterday after a deep, heavy soak of water. Treating for it today with the liquid Bauer advanced. I don’t like the granular as it says, “safe to re-enter when dry”. Well, what about when you irrigate regularly? Always stay off of it while wet? Nah. Unless I’m missing something and once it gets wet once, it’s one and done? Let me know. As always, thanks Ginja.
The imidicloprid insecticides sink into the soil into the lower layers. the bifen based or curative insecticides act as floaters and stay in the upper levels of the thatch and crown of the grass. Interesting science for sure. The wetting is to get the product off the leaves of the grass and into the crown and lower. pretty safe in my opinion.
thanks for ideas to control the grubs. wondered about some dry spots in my lawn. i'm in central cal, summers can many times hit and hover in high 90s and 100s. my lawn is 35yrs old and some of the sprinklers can be pretty old maybe not 30 plus but 20 yrs and some are newer. don't remember my lawn having dry spots back in the day but am trying to seek out sprinklers to get better coverage. i've heard that water pressure could affect sprinkler coverage (a more even curtain of coverage from sprinkler). my well pumps 60 psi to valves, do i need to reduce the pressure to get better coverage? considering hunter sprinkler to see if i can get better coverage, any ideas or thoughts? thanks for your help
you do not need to reduce pressure unless you're running the hunter mp rotator series that are 40psi heads. the best thing you can do is a water output cup test, measure the cups and see if the water caught matches one another. the cups in areas that are not average to the others will tell you what areas need sprinkler adjustments.
Ginja! Scotts is selling 'Grubgone' in Canada. A bioinsecticide made of a kind of 'Bt' called Btg. They claim it is 90% as effective as Merit and needs much less irrigation to work than nematodes. Imidacloprid and Carbryl are both unregistered here for domestic use. Researching this product it has been for sale for two years in the states but there is no videos or comments about, that I could find. Scotts say it kills larger instar grubs if it gets down to the root zone, grubs eat it, then stop feeding and die.
Help me Ginja! Just subscribed! I have live in Massachusetts and have a very thick 9 year old lawn. I have always used a fertilization program and aerated once a year (usually in fall). The lawn looks great in early spring but for the last 5 years I always get pink patch in late spring/early summer. It’s quite aggressive and takes over most of my 15,000sqft within a few weeks. I have irrigation and my landscaper says to water deeply each night because my lawn is full sun. I understand that the fungus doesn’t permanently kill the grass, but when the fungus takes over and thins the lawn, and then summer heat comes, I get dead bare spots that don’t come back. Why do you think I’m getting this each year and what should I do? Thank you. Love your channel
fungus is a result of too much moisture and humidity. you'll need to dial your watering in. move to a 3x per week plan and focus on not over or underwatering. You may also want to consider a preventive fungicide in the future
@@pestandlawnginja thanks! You are the best. No I mean regular water. I am suspecting a dry patch and at the same time a fungus patch at different area. Hence was asking how much water to put for these areas .. At the same time I am doing grub treatment :(
@@rajivbammi you want to maintain 6" of water saturation in the soil for best rooting results. I understand most people are looking for how many minutes for me to recommend but the issue is water output. I use 1.75" of water peer week over my lawn to maintain water evaporation.
Great videos! I need some advice. I recently discovered I had a grub issue well after they had gotten most of my back yard. I just laid the granular bioadvanced grub killer plus, but the next day i was still able to find live grubs. Is it okay to go to the Cyonara 9.7 and the Dominion 2L within the same week or should i wait some time. Also, I like the idea of doing a stimulant on the yard to help restore the turf quicker, but if spread out the ProPeat 13-5-8, would that take the place of my regular scheduled fertilizer i do with Scotts Turf builder? FYI, i am in Houston so not sure if that changes any of your answers. Thank you for doing these videos!!
doing another dose of insecticide should be ok. it won't burn or cause issues with the plants. If you use the propeat it would not be wise to use the scotts within 2 weeks. too much nitrogen can burn the lawn. Thanks for all the support!
I'm battling grubs again in the uk I think i've cracked it now soak the lawn so it's sodden put down a large black plastic sheet in the evening then in the morning you can literally vacuum them up.
Hi, I'm in Utah too and a huge portion of my back lawn was affected by grub. Unfortunately, now it is Spring (March) and I haven't done anything yet. I am wondering if we should lay down the pesticide (like the grub killer plus) now over the whole lawn, and then rake the dead lawn and reseed? Or do you rake up the dead lawn first (there are zero roots), then apply pesticide and then reseed? Or rake up the lawn, reseed, and then do the pesticide? Thanks for the great video
all great questions. here's the issue. we need to figure out if the grubs come from japanese beatles or billbugs. easiest way to tell is if the grubs had legs or not. billbugs are commonly not laying eggs before the end of april / may, and commonly are causing damages around july / august depending on the year. Japanese beatle grubs over winter in the soil and are there around the year. if you want to error on the side of caution I would use a product called acelepryn. it goes a tad deeper into the soil and also stays in the soil much longer than the traditional application of imidicloprid.
Hi Ginja. In my opinion you're the best for the lawn affairs. I have learnt a lot with your videos. I applied with end hose the Bayer insect killer early morning, it completely dried out and nightime rain, next day early morning I applied Triazicide insect killer and Bayer fungus control end hose, both dried very good and 4 pm we have a storm with heavy rain for almost 1 hour (even some snow in July 😮, this is crazy). It will rain the next 2 days but no storms Yes, my lawn has fungus and I I see the bettles couples making babies every day, they are cooking. I overseed with tenacity and some new grass is growing, with that in very happy 😁 Do I have to reapply the fungus control and insecticide after 2 days I mow?. It's time, my grass needs a 3" haircut. Thank you
The imidicloprid bases will last 9 weeks while growing through the plant. The bifen only lasts a week or two at best. Reapplication is as desired or as directed on the label. It's pretty common for a label to instruct a re application on fungicides within 2 weeks.
Ginja; sure costs a lot of money to have a nice green lawn. I have had Bill bug before so I watch closely for damage. However I like the video in that prevention is best then you don’t have to deal with the damage these critters can cause.. Be safe out there!
Really good video. Thorough, to the point and well presented. I do have 1 question. This is all new to me and as a fairly new widow, I've got my hand full of learning. How do I measure out 2 lbs of granules of the grub killer for the spreader. I know I need 2lbs for 1000sq ft and spreader setting 4.5, but like... how many cups would be the 2 lbs? Thanks!
I know for sure I have grubs . I lifted some huge crab grass and they were there those little white grubs -I’m end of summer in the NE. Is it to late to apply bioadv 24 hr. ? I did apply some end of June ( seems like I may applied the wrong one or missed a step.
May I ask, what brand of shoes were you wearing in the video? They look very light and comfy... Also, Cyonara to get rid of the Japanese bugs, coincidence,I think not...
The other day I went to a sod farm and the sod didn’t have real good color. I walked around on it and did the pull test. Everything was solid. Loaded up my sod but while installing it noticed it was full of grubs! They were all over it.
So it is mid to end of January in Texas and I see the results of having grubs this past year. Historically had a great, healthy St. Augustine grass until now. Looks like having a mild winter. When should begin to applying the curative products you reference?
@@pestandlawnginja commented before I watched the whole video, used a ton of vintage video footage, no mulch in the flower beds, grub footage, and using the sun joe
I'm in NW Indiana (very close to Chicago) I have the typical "Midwest mix" of mostly KBG, fescue, & rye in my lawn. I do a split-application of Prodiamine in the early spring each year. When I do my second application (usually in April sometime) of Prodiamine I also mix in Dominion 2L to help prevent grubs. My question is, how many times can I apply the Dominion 2L? Should I do a second application of it in June or July to get a bit more length in coverage? Or is one time per season enough? Thanks in advance. Love the videos.
Great question! It all depends on the rates your doing. it's common to use .5oz per 1000 sq ft for grub control with that product. it should last minimum 9 weeks if you watered it in correctly. You can do a second app and if you're in a warmer climate it might be wise.
Japanese beetles absolutely ravage my 60 ft elm tree. I can put out 4 traps and by midday I have to empty the traps in a soapy foam water to drown them before dumping the dang things. I do the preventions and treatments but they are like locusts in Missouri.
Hello! I need help identifying and treating a grub beetle issue in my lawn. I have tried using GrubEx, but my lawn looks worse. I haven't used Milky Spore. Although I can't identify any grubs, I have noticed mole tunnels and found one beetle. Can you please provide suggestions on how to address this issue? It's currently July and I need a solution. Thank you! Any suggestions you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there. really it all comes down to identification as you're suggesting. if you have grubs you'll find them. if you look in the description of the vidoe I have mapped out the treatments for curative and prevention. but you'll need to find the larvae / grub beetle in order to properly identify or find out if you actually have turf insects invading your grass. most lawns i assess have lack of water and not a turf insect issue.
Hey man great video as always! My question is about fertilizer if you don’t mind. My soil test recommend adding 2-3lbs of N, 1lb of P, and 2lbs of K. I was having a tough time finding an equivalent for that ratio until I saw this video! Will that ProPeat 13-5-8 work or is there something else you maybe know of that would be closer to my numbers? Thanks as always Ginja can’t wait for the next video!
Its a great product. You just need to do some math. At the high rate of 1lbs per 1000 sq ft you'd use 7.69lbs of product to get to 1lbs N. 20lbs to get to 1lb of P and 12.5lbs to get to 1lbs of K. With that said the 1lbs of N bag rate of 7.69lbs of product per 1000 sq ft puts you at 1lbsN .38lbs P and .62lbs K per application. If you cut these rates in half you could do a 6 services program over the course of the summer and be right where you want. of you could do 4 services over the season and also be mathematically sound. looks like a good fit for what you need.
Grubs and terrible soil have ruined our backyard. We're planning to start from scratch and replace rocky soil our contractor left and sodded. Should we add grub prevention and remedy to our regrading, new soil, seeding plans?
That is a great question. it all depends on if you want to water it in and keep it wet. The water is a spreading agent and helps push the elements into the soil. I wouldn't apply it unless you have grass on the ground and I would wait until the sod or seed has set in which usually takes a few months.
I need a house call in Michigan. I’m not slaying and all the companies I talk to generalize in troubleshooting, I can’t find anyone to walk my lawn and diagnose.
super frustrating Jill! Just remember it all starts with water. if you haven't figured out your water output and proven your water coverage I would start there. do the video exercise at the end of the page at myallgreen.com/watering . check out my video "ultimate lawn fix"
Trying to find a pest and lawn Ginja is like trying to find a needle in a haystack, there's a big difference between thinking you know what your talking about and knowing what your talking about,the pest and lawn Ginja knows what he's talking about, would gladly pay him money any day of the week just to come over and look at my lawn and advise me on what to do to make it look great but no not the pest and lawn Ginja no siree, he takes it up a notch and does it for free on RUclips, now I ask ya who does that who just gives you all the information that you need to have a fantastic looking lawn , the pest and lawn Ginja, that's who
Love the diy videos thank you.. question for you or from a follower, are ants bad for the lawn? Today when mowing i looked down and seen a few thousand it seemed in one spot..just wondering thank you
@@pestandlawnginja copy that thank you..thought maybe they eat the roots.. Maybe some day you can do a vid on pocket gougher and moles, lol i am about ready to call in f4 phatoms to air strike with napalm. Been catching them easy with cinch traps made in Oregon. But gophers got educated or i am doing something different..i am in the pacific northwest.. Looks like a great area you live in..i can see cascades from my 2 acres, mt hood and rainer..take care god bless..oh i been doing what you showed on lawn grass and everyone that walks by stops and says wow your yard is great..thank you
Ok, I just put down the bio advanced grub killer. when should I do the bio advance insect killer or the essential plus? I hardly saw any Japanese beetles this year unlike most every other year. This is my first bad experience with grubs. Some animals are really digging up allot of my yard to get at the grubs
ever have a repair area or large reseed area have odd spots that are slow to germinate, or do not sprout straight up, but rather look curled over? have a large reseed area i sprayed a month ago with tenacity, before throwing down seed, wondered if it could be the meso with some possible lingering in the soil. majority of seed came in growing straight ,never seen it before. made me wonder if pests could cause this.
chances are it comes down to watering. too much water will cause this and too little water during the germination process will cause this. i would do a water output cup test and prove your watering myallgreen.com/watering
Hello Ginja, I have a small lawn. I put down grub control about 2nd week of June. It's now June 24th. Can I put down a treatment of Bioadvanced fungus granular and a ortho home defense granular at same time? I'm seeing a haze due to heat, humidity, and probably over-watering....some brown spots. Thanks
Hello, I just treated my lawn with bioadvanced grub killer plus 4 weeks ago pretty heavily covering it twice but the grubs are now appear in other sections of the lawn. I’m in Texas. It’s killing my grass. Should I apply more before winter comes ? Lots of grass is completely dead. My neighbors have it too but I don’t think they treat it.
if you have them now you'll most likely have them in the future. I would start a quarterly treatment. they don't feed as often in the fall and over the winter as they do in the spring and late summer.
@@pestandlawnginja I agree, is there anything I can do before the winter so they don’t eat more roots ? Or am I going to have to wait. I’ve already done the grub killer plus about 4 weeks ago but don’t know if it’s a waste of money to do it again since it’s already November. I’m seeing new spot and I am sure it’s grubs. Thank you
i've had great luck hammering these machines. i've broke a few of them after about 15 to 20 heavy heavy uses where all lawns were virgin over 20 years. they take a beating but in the end they have some plastic parts that occassionally fail.
Does the BioAdvance Grub Killer Plus bring (in my case) leather jackets to the surface? I applied it last night and went out this morning to find them all over the surface of the lawn. When normally they would be 'grubbin' in the thatch layer. Wondering if the BioAdvance did that or if they just naturallly come to the surface in the morning and now i am just noticing because i applied the Trichlorfon (BioAdvance)? Thanks brotha!
Our area doesn't see much in regards to chinch bugs. but this method will work the same for chinch bugs. You an treat the area before you lay the sod but you may want to consider using milky spore instead and do a few applications .
Hi Ginja, Always on time with your vids. I overseed in 05.29.20 and 06.05.20 KBG first time I use scoots brand and my Seedlings are coming up nice, some of them have almost 2", some not even half, I guess from the 06.05.20 but, I have some fungus on the old Turf. My manicure has dried grass or fungus combo and he shares but, in genealogy my holes are filling up, also I have insects and for sure I'll have some larvae grubs (I saw the bettles all over),, I stopped the squirrels and other animals from making holes with bat and arches to hold it and works. . Yesterday I put down Jonathan's fungus control. My question is Can I apply the insecticide to the new baby grass or something else? . I got nematodes on the refrigerator but, yesterday I saw the fungus so, I'll use them only for around the bushes and not for the grass 'cause they die with the insecticide. The grass looks very funny with the Nets, everyone look when they walk the dogs. 😁Thank you
great question. the insecticides can be ok on new grass but it needs to be a light dose and I probably wouldn't use anything other than a bifenthrin based insecticide.
Okay new home owner here and I think I could really use your help in assessing my issues, you offer a virtual inspection? I’m in Seattle and would pay for that haha! Previous owner did a really good job and I’m late to the game and the weeds have a upper hand on me.
Can we aerate in Fall if we were stupid and planted seed at the end of March. Now were fighting weeds all the way to fall and will have bare patches to fix all over.....If we wait 6 months until September first and we aerate or is the grass to new to aerate?
I have a ton of worms, with a good beneficial mycorrhizal in the soil, and notice some grubs sometimes when pulling weeds or thick blade fescue out of the lawn. The lawn is in good shape, but i find grubs when working in the lawn. Is there a way to kill the grubs, without harming the worms and the mycorrhizal??
Jared, I've thinking about the water retention properties of the peat moss in ProPeat. Do you think it would be beneficial to top dress a 7.5 pH lawn or specific problem areas that experience water retention issues with peat moss and then use the Sun Joe scarifier attachment to work it into the soil profile? Or would it negatively prevent deep water penetration and keep it in the upper soil profile where it will be more likely to evaporate?
I have mixed feelings on putting straight peat down. It really depends on the source of peat. Sometimes I feel the part doesnt mesh well in the soil and robs water. But other times its integrated well. Whatever propeat does to break it down works great
About once a week a skunk comes and rips up a hole in my lawn. I assume its trying to eat a grub but does that mean i have grubs or he was just looking or maybe it was just one or two random ones?
ugh!!! skunks cause soo much damage when they dig. Your assumption is probably right. they love grubs and worms of sorts. Start doing some random pull tests in the yard.
the right type of fertilizer will depend on what's natively in your soil. If you have high phos in your soil you'll want to stay away from that particular bag you mentioned.
You alway do a amazing job at explaining everything thanks for all the hard homework an putting together another awesome video for us your the best bro.
Thank you for this video, Ginja!! I've been battling grubs in my lawn for years. Just to recap, I definitely do have grubs and since it is July, this is perfect timing. I need to treat my grass with Bioadvanced Complete Insect Killer to kill the grubs and as preventive. If I want to kill them faster, but without preventive benefits, I just use Bioadvanced Grub Killer Plus. To repair my anemic grass, I use Essential 101 in conjunction with the mentioned products. Do I need to add grass seed, too? And THEN add milky spore, treating my grass 2-3 times in the coming two years. In the meantime, I've been spraying my grass with neem oil for the past two nights. Do you have any opinion on the efficacy of neem oil? In addition to the grubs in my grass, I also discovered grubs in my succulent garden, which is nowhere near any grass. I found them a few months ago when I was doing some planting. In one a small section I found 10 grubs. I sprinkled triazicide on the area. What is your opinion of that product? Thank you soooo much for any feedback you can offer me I'm ready to throw in the towel and just go artificial.
Hi Lisa! Love hearing your out slaying that lawn. You have a perfect approach. sounds like you got hit hard! Sorry to hear about that. The only thing I'd consider adding to your regimen before an overseed is dethatching once you get the grass back to a solid healthy state. The triazicide works great. I've used it before and it does what the label states. Keep slaying that lawn!
I have had Japanese beetle grubs in planting containers and in mulched planting beds - so I am not surprised you see grubs in any soil. Think about it - the adult insect laying the eggs is not always going to be intelligent about where the eggs are laid.
Hello mate I am in desperate need of help please. I would really appreciate some advice. My lawn is roughly 200sqm. Last spring we laid brand new turf, not long after a huge new home site was built behind which has driven millions of worms into our new soil and lawn. Fast forward a few months the whole lawn is gone and it’s just aerated soil from the worms.they are nearly at the outer bushes which cost a lot of money so I would like to save them if possible asap. Do you have any advice on how I can get rid of these worms and how I can prevent them reaching the bushes/tree soil. Thanks.
worms are a difficult task due to the slime on there bodies. there are a few sprays on the market commonly made of carboryl and imidicloprids that have claims to effect worm activities. my suggestion is to go to a local nursery to ask them what they have to sell you. I would combine this application with some dish soap to help drive said insects to the surfact. the soap will also help the product stick better and penetrate the ground. this is a tough situation. not seen often but it happens.
@@pestandlawnginja thanks for replying, sorry I have since found out that the problem is leather jackets. Thinking of using nemysis nematodes if you think that sounds right
I have birds (I think) tearing up my yard to get to insects. But I can't find the insects. Has that ever happened to you before? Thanks from a fellow utah slayer.
I had grubs. I had birds coming and tearing up the lawn to get the grubs. Skunks and other animals would come and dig for the grubs. We treated for the grubs and they are now gone.
Commonly a sign you have an abundance of worms in the lawn. take it as a compliment from the birds. use the sun joe dethatcher to help break the mounds up.
Pest and Lawn Ginja you and Allyn “ LCN are the only ones that are putting out the greatest and professional knowledge of lawn care and diagnostic approaches, the others I feel are just pushing their own products and Lawncology said “ if you use my products you don’t have to aerate and don’t seed doing aeration, just throw the seed down and use my products, THE FURTHEST FROM THE TRUTH, sorry to vent, I will never buy his products again, tired of drinking that koolaid,, I believe that my lawn was riddled with issues last year and this spring, following Lawncology advice,but you were the one who got it going again, and the propeat works amazing, Thanks again for the awesome videos and awesome info, 👍👍
I need some advice. I installed a fertigation system called EZ-FLO and its a five gallon tank. My yard is 30,000 sf all full sun landscape. Just lawn. I bought this fertilizer called triple 12 by growth products. All of the golf courses in my area use this through out the spring summer and fall though their fertigation. It’s says that they use 96oz of fertilizer diluted in their 75 gallon tanks. To a hive 1 LB of nitrogen pee 1000 sf weekly. I broke my tank down to 6-7 oz of fertilizer diluted in a five gallon tank to achieve the same 1 LB per 1000 sf on a weekly basis. Can you confirm lawn ginga? I would put the product label here but I don’t see any place to post photos. I did check for grubs and I found none in spots that looked stressed. It’s just watering I had to bump up to one hour a zone three times a week to keep up with the 90 degree weather. Any advice? Thanks Gene
The difficult part is to figure out how much water output you have. see myallgreen.com/watering and perform the video exercise at the bottom of the page. you'll need 2" of water per week to keep up with evaporation. you'll also want to do this exercise to prove your sprinklers and overlap are proper. if they're not you run the risk of not getting fertilizer in those areas or potentially having some burn spots as well. As for the triple 12. it's a urea base and I personally wouldn't exceed more than 1.25lbs of N per month in any given situation besides recoving drought stress dormant areas. Doing math on liquid nitrogen sources is completely different than bags of fertilizer. it's best to use the rate listed on the bottle and not exceed 30oz per 1000 sq ft of product per month. That will keep you safe. There are a few liquid calculators to help figure out how much N is in the mix. but it does require some math and understanding net contents of the bottle. If you came out at 7oz per week per 1000 sq ft you should be safe.
Pest and Lawn Ginja my lawn sprinkler guy actually did this method a couple of months ago and came out with these figures. Plenty of over lap on every zone with each head overlaps g 10 feet. Now it took one hour per zone to collect a half inch of water. This was for the 180 degree hunter spray nozzles. I also have one zone going down the middle of the yard that are 360 degree heads and those took two hours to give me 1/2 inch of water because they had to make full revolutions. I just switched them over to three times per week at one hour per zone and I add a fourth time if I check my soil with my probe and see that the water is only down three inches. I know I’m good when my soil probe gives me a good six inch core of damp soil. You can email me at cleancars8@gmail.com and I can send you pics of my lawn and the dimensions of my yard which is really square. I have 80lbs of water pressure and get 6.7 gallons per minute all measured out by my sprinkler installer. I’ve just switched to a more liquid feeding for my lawn and less granular so that’s why I have all these questions. The fertigation system is taking quite a bit more calculation as with granular I can actually see what I put down quickly with my spreader where as with the fertigation system it takes like 4 weeks to see the actual product empty out. I suppose I could throw colored dye in the tank and run my zone to simulate the rate of application on different settings on my ez-flo system. Thoughts?
Are there any alternatives to Essential Plus 1-0-1 that you would recommend? Looks like shipping is a week out on Amazon and I'm not sure I can wait that long. Also, is there any issue applying curatives right before we are about to have a week of 50-ish degree high temperatures?
The castings of Eisenia Fetidia (Red Wigglers, common name) have been shown to have insect repellant characteristics, interestingly enough. Have you experimented with the use of castings or tea in lawns? Do you know anyone who has?
I personally have not. i've spoken to suppliers that specialize in casting. the issue is you would have to use so much on a lawn that its becomes a hastle. which is why people use it in gardens due to the smaller space.
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Thanks for watching today's video. Check out the description to see the products I used today. If you're looking for the best treatments for your lawn, check out my favorite products:
Fertilizer
🛒 Propeat Fertilizer
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Yard Equipment
🛒 Sun Joe Scarifier and dethatcher (REQUIRES 12Gaugae Extension Cord)
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🛒 12gauge 100ft extension cord
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🛒 Thatch Rake
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🛒 Spyker hand held spreader
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🛒 Levelawn
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🛒 Rain Gauge 10 pack
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🛒 Thermometer (Taylor digital thermometer)
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🛒 FlowZone Typhoon 2V
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DoMyOwn (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/423najqv
🛒 FlowZone Storm Backpack Sprayer
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DoMyOwn (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/53g8qmog
🛒 Solo Handheld Sprayer 2 Gallon w/ fan nozzle
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Herbicides for Cool Season Grass
🛒 Speedzone (For hard to kill weeds)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2UkBVpC
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y3emhy5a
🛒 T-Zone Herbicide (For hard to do weeds)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2ZWLy3L
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y4tqhy3o
🛒 Tenacity (Crabgrass and annual grass control)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2L9xzP0
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y2go983a
🛒 Non-ionic Surfactant (to be purchased with Tenacity)
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2LduNIk
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/y653upkf
🛒 Methylated Seed Oil Duo Stick (Purchase with quinclorac products like drive xlr8)
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/yxt5q2zo
🛒 Drive XLR8 Quinclorac (annual grass killer / crabgrass killer)
Domyown (PAID LINK): tinyurl.com/48b8jssy
Amazon (PAID LINK): amzn.to/2ZWZI4N
🛒 Quinclorac 1.5L (annual grass killer / crabgrass killer)
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Year one was moss and when the snowmelt was done I rolled up the moss leaving bare dirt over the entire lawn, and I started reseeding. Year 4 now, grubs. One shovel from anywhere may have 20 grubs. Entire lawn devasted again. But the Lawn Ginja always has the reason and the solution inspite of my obvious lawn curse. Thanks. Someday I will be able to relax with a simple routine that wins.
slay that lawn!!!! Glad youre finding value in my content.
This is the best solution I got for my grub problem after doing all my exhaustive research!
thanks for the feedback
Ginja, you are going to TruGreen and Scott lawn care out of business, because I was just going to hire them, but after seeing your video, I am going to try and solve the problem myself. thanks.
You're welcome Rick! Glad you're finding value!
Incredibly thorough video. Keeping things in laymen terms and not condescending. I don't have a large scale problem, but my first instinct was to tear up the turf and kill the visible grubs. Thanks for explaining and giving me hope that I don't have to do a replanting/sodding.
You're welcome Rick!
4
A good video you put together. I have one small section of my front lawn under a huge maple tree that gets a problem every summer. I have found small white grubs before but this year couldn’t find any but the grass was dying and some pulled easily. I put down Sevin bug killer and DiseaseX and a few weeks later it’s cleared up. Some thin areas now but overall looking pretty good. Thank you.
Love hearing that you slayed the lawn! Well done!
Dude, you are the man. I never considered trying to force some growth after some of the damage occurred. Hope my prevention is good and won’t need to repair, but great to know!
anytime Mark! Thanks for your support
I watch a few of you lawn guys on RUclips and your the best
Super kind Mr. Gary. appreciate the kind words.
U are my best theacher on lawn care mr Ginja 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Best Friend!
Perfect timing! I just found Billbugs and cutworms in my yard yesterday after a deep, heavy soak of water. Treating for it today with the liquid Bauer advanced. I don’t like the granular as it says, “safe to re-enter when dry”. Well, what about when you irrigate regularly? Always stay off of it while wet? Nah. Unless I’m missing something and once it gets wet once, it’s one and done? Let me know. As always, thanks Ginja.
The imidicloprid insecticides sink into the soil into the lower layers. the bifen based or curative insecticides act as floaters and stay in the upper levels of the thatch and crown of the grass. Interesting science for sure. The wetting is to get the product off the leaves of the grass and into the crown and lower. pretty safe in my opinion.
thanks for ideas to control the grubs. wondered about some dry spots in my lawn. i'm in central cal, summers can many times hit and hover in high 90s and 100s. my lawn is 35yrs old and some of the sprinklers can be pretty old maybe not 30 plus but 20 yrs and some are newer. don't remember my lawn having dry spots back in the day but am trying to seek out sprinklers to get better coverage. i've heard that water pressure could affect sprinkler coverage (a more even curtain of coverage from sprinkler). my well pumps 60 psi to valves, do i need to reduce the pressure to get better coverage? considering hunter sprinkler to see if i can get better coverage, any ideas or thoughts? thanks for your help
you do not need to reduce pressure unless you're running the hunter mp rotator series that are 40psi heads.
the best thing you can do is a water output cup test, measure the cups and see if the water caught matches one another. the cups in areas that are not average to the others will tell you what areas need sprinkler adjustments.
One of the best videos I have seen with all kinds of knowledge to be Larned thank you so much
Thanks Caren, appreciate the feedback.
Thanks man i appreciate it i need to figure out whats wrong with my lawn its bad im gonna try your 5 steps this morning thanks alot buddy
Good luck! You got this!
Thanks i just wish i could get the greene county supplies then it would help its bad here!! It makes me sad how bad it looks
Thanks for the international shout out! Calgary here and love your ideas!
You the man Parker! Glad you mentioned it!
Ginja!
Scotts is selling 'Grubgone' in Canada.
A bioinsecticide made of a kind of 'Bt' called Btg.
They claim it is 90% as effective as Merit and needs much less irrigation to work than nematodes.
Imidacloprid and Carbryl are both unregistered here for domestic use.
Researching this product it has been for sale for two years in the states but there is no videos or comments about, that I could find.
Scotts say it kills larger instar grubs if it gets down to the root zone, grubs eat it, then stop feeding and die.
Perfect! Thanks for sharing! I'll have to right that down.
Were going to use Ortho House Defence for chinch bugs, our neighbour says it's effective. Mona in Ottawa
I like the nExt product line, but that Essentials 1-0-1plus is the real deal. You see results fast from that stuff.
It's pretty amazing for recovery
Great video!!
What is the advice for applications from treatment to repair? How much time do I give for application when treating?
You can apply all sprays or granular same day.
Thank you,
Last question, if dirt is complete compacted and water just sit on top. Is it too late ? Will I need to dig up?
Help me Ginja! Just subscribed! I have live in Massachusetts and have a very thick 9 year old lawn. I have always used a fertilization program and aerated once a year (usually in fall). The lawn looks great in early spring but for the last 5 years I always get pink patch in late spring/early summer. It’s quite aggressive and takes over most of my 15,000sqft within a few weeks. I have irrigation and my landscaper says to water deeply each night because my lawn is full sun. I understand that the fungus doesn’t permanently kill the grass, but when the fungus takes over and thins the lawn, and then summer heat comes, I get dead bare spots that don’t come back. Why do you think I’m getting this each year and what should I do? Thank you. Love your channel
fungus is a result of too much moisture and humidity. you'll need to dial your watering in. move to a 3x per week plan and focus on not over or underwatering. You may also want to consider a preventive fungicide in the future
Wow super useful!!! One ques when treating grubs via insect killer what watering schedule we should follow?
I immediately water in 1/2" of water
@@pestandlawnginja thanks! You are the best. No I mean regular water. I am suspecting a dry patch and at the same time a fungus patch at different area. Hence was asking how much water to put for these areas .. At the same time I am doing grub treatment :(
@@rajivbammi you want to maintain 6" of water saturation in the soil for best rooting results. I understand most people are looking for how many minutes for me to recommend but the issue is water output. I use 1.75" of water peer week over my lawn to maintain water evaporation.
awesome video keep it up dude
Thanks, will do!
I liked this video Ginja. Good stuff
Thanks Daniel!
Great videos! I need some advice. I recently discovered I had a grub issue well after they had gotten most of my back yard. I just laid the granular bioadvanced grub killer plus, but the next day i was still able to find live grubs. Is it okay to go to the Cyonara 9.7 and the Dominion 2L within the same week or should i wait some time. Also, I like the idea of doing a stimulant on the yard to help restore the turf quicker, but if spread out the ProPeat 13-5-8, would that take the place of my regular scheduled fertilizer i do with Scotts Turf builder? FYI, i am in Houston so not sure if that changes any of your answers. Thank you for doing these videos!!
doing another dose of insecticide should be ok. it won't burn or cause issues with the plants.
If you use the propeat it would not be wise to use the scotts within 2 weeks. too much nitrogen can burn the lawn. Thanks for all the support!
I'm battling grubs again in the uk I think i've cracked it now soak the lawn so it's sodden put down a large black plastic sheet in the evening then in the morning you can literally vacuum them up.
I like that idea. that's awesome. you should do a video clip of that in action.
Hi, I'm in Utah too and a huge portion of my back lawn was affected by grub. Unfortunately, now it is Spring (March) and I haven't done anything yet. I am wondering if we should lay down the pesticide (like the grub killer plus) now over the whole lawn, and then rake the dead lawn and reseed? Or do you rake up the dead lawn first (there are zero roots), then apply pesticide and then reseed? Or rake up the lawn, reseed, and then do the pesticide? Thanks for the great video
all great questions. here's the issue. we need to figure out if the grubs come from japanese beatles or billbugs. easiest way to tell is if the grubs had legs or not. billbugs are commonly not laying eggs before the end of april / may, and commonly are causing damages around july / august depending on the year. Japanese beatle grubs over winter in the soil and are there around the year. if you want to error on the side of caution I would use a product called acelepryn. it goes a tad deeper into the soil and also stays in the soil much longer than the traditional application of imidicloprid.
Great information . Well explained for the average lawn guy like myself .
Earned yourself a like and Sun. Thank you 👍🏼
Thanks Miguel!
Informative video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciate you watching and commenting!
Hi Ginja. In my opinion you're the best for the lawn affairs. I have learnt a lot with your videos. I applied with end hose the Bayer insect killer early morning, it completely dried out and nightime rain, next day early morning I applied Triazicide insect killer and Bayer fungus control end hose, both dried very good and 4 pm we have a storm with heavy rain for almost 1 hour (even some snow in July 😮, this is crazy). It will rain the next 2 days but no storms Yes, my lawn has fungus and I I see the bettles couples making babies every day, they are cooking. I overseed with tenacity and some new grass is growing, with that in very happy 😁
Do I have to reapply the fungus control and insecticide after 2 days I mow?. It's time, my grass needs a 3" haircut.
Thank you
The imidicloprid bases will last 9 weeks while growing through the plant. The bifen only lasts a week or two at best. Reapplication is as desired or as directed on the label. It's pretty common for a label to instruct a re application on fungicides within 2 weeks.
just found your ch as try to fix up my lawn, thanks, any tip for a slop Lawn, i feel my water just runs off to the street.
water in doses of 10 min then go through every station and repeat the process. small feedings of water instead of one giant one.
Thanks ! Now that I know how to do it I will check tomorrow . You Rock!
Perfect!
Ginja; sure costs a lot of money to have a nice green lawn. I have had Bill bug before so I watch closely for damage. However I like the video in that prevention is best then you don’t have to deal with the damage these critters can cause.. Be safe out there!
Great feedback John! Have a great day
Really good video. Thorough, to the point and well presented. I do have 1 question. This is all new to me and as a fairly new widow, I've got my hand full of learning. How do I measure out 2 lbs of granules of the grub killer for the spreader. I know I need 2lbs for 1000sq ft and spreader setting 4.5, but like... how many cups would be the 2 lbs? Thanks!
personally i use a food scale. the granular density will change between manufacturers.
@@pestandlawnginja Ok, Thanks! I've got one somewhere.
I know for sure I have grubs . I lifted some huge crab grass and they were there those little white grubs -I’m end of summer in the NE. Is it to late to apply bioadv 24 hr. ? I did apply some end of June ( seems like I may applied the wrong one or missed a step.
Thanks for the back to basics vid, Ginja.
That chin wig is looking pretty Brillo pad, Boss.
about time! took long enough to get back this low hahaha
Love your video brother, very informative! . Thank you for sharing your knowledge and wisdom! 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
May I ask, what brand of shoes were you wearing in the video? They look very light and comfy...
Also, Cyonara to get rid of the Japanese bugs, coincidence,I think not...
The other day I went to a sod farm and the sod didn’t have real good color. I walked around on it and did the pull test. Everything was solid. Loaded up my sod but while installing it noticed it was full of grubs! They were all over it.
That happens!!! Crazy to think.
So it is mid to end of January in Texas and I see the results of having grubs this past year. Historically had a great, healthy St. Augustine grass until now. Looks like having a mild winter. When should begin to applying the curative products you reference?
curative is for situations where you have bugs. if you have them now do it now. if not do the preventive treatments spring and fall.
Channel is blowing up! Well deserved, keep it up
Appreciate it!
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
bringing back the 4 steps! love it
Thanks Ben! Steps are the peoples fav
@@pestandlawnginja commented before I watched the whole video, used a ton of vintage video footage, no mulch in the flower beds, grub footage, and using the sun joe
Great video and super informative
Learned a lot! Great video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Can we talk about the mountains in the background. Looks amazing!
100% agree. they are amazing.
Yo are the man GInja! great video! so grateful that you share you knowledge!
More to come! Thanks for the support Steven!
Thanks for the info. Plus you live a beautiful location. Where is this?
I'm craving a video of the Allet doing some work and your thoughts on it so far :) thanks for the quality content you always produce!
soon! very soon!
I'm in NW Indiana (very close to Chicago) I have the typical "Midwest mix" of mostly KBG, fescue, & rye in my lawn. I do a split-application of Prodiamine in the early spring each year. When I do my second application (usually in April sometime) of Prodiamine I also mix in Dominion 2L to help prevent grubs. My question is, how many times can I apply the Dominion 2L? Should I do a second application of it in June or July to get a bit more length in coverage? Or is one time per season enough? Thanks in advance. Love the videos.
Great question! It all depends on the rates your doing. it's common to use .5oz per 1000 sq ft for grub control with that product. it should last minimum 9 weeks if you watered it in correctly. You can do a second app and if you're in a warmer climate it might be wise.
Japanese beetles absolutely ravage my 60 ft elm tree. I can put out 4 traps and by midday I have to empty the traps in a soapy foam water to drown them before dumping the dang things. I do the preventions and treatments but they are like locusts in Missouri.
I've heard the rumors. crazy
What do you think about duo cide? From the Andersons? I already bought that one and want to know if that should work fine
duo cide is a great product. been around for many years and many success stories.
Hello!
I need help identifying and treating a grub beetle issue in my lawn. I have tried using GrubEx, but my lawn looks worse. I haven't used Milky Spore. Although I can't identify any grubs, I have noticed mole tunnels and found one beetle. Can you please provide suggestions on how to address this issue? It's currently July and I need a solution. Thank you!
Any suggestions you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hi there. really it all comes down to identification as you're suggesting. if you have grubs you'll find them. if you look in the description of the vidoe I have mapped out the treatments for curative and prevention. but you'll need to find the larvae / grub beetle in order to properly identify or find out if you actually have turf insects invading your grass. most lawns i assess have lack of water and not a turf insect issue.
Excellent Video!!!!! Thank you Ginja :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey man great video as always! My question is about fertilizer if you don’t mind. My soil test recommend adding 2-3lbs of N, 1lb of P, and 2lbs of K. I was having a tough time finding an equivalent for that ratio until I saw this video! Will that ProPeat 13-5-8 work or is there something else you maybe know of that would be closer to my numbers? Thanks as always Ginja can’t wait for the next video!
Its a great product. You just need to do some math. At the high rate of 1lbs per 1000 sq ft you'd use 7.69lbs of product to get to 1lbs N. 20lbs to get to 1lb of P and 12.5lbs to get to 1lbs of K. With that said the 1lbs of N bag rate of 7.69lbs of product per 1000 sq ft puts you at 1lbsN .38lbs P and .62lbs K per application. If you cut these rates in half you could do a 6 services program over the course of the summer and be right where you want. of you could do 4 services over the season and also be mathematically sound. looks like a good fit for what you need.
Grubs and terrible soil have ruined our backyard. We're planning to start from scratch and replace rocky soil our contractor left and sodded. Should we add grub prevention and remedy to our regrading, new soil, seeding plans?
That is a great question. it all depends on if you want to water it in and keep it wet. The water is a spreading agent and helps push the elements into the soil. I wouldn't apply it unless you have grass on the ground and I would wait until the sod or seed has set in which usually takes a few months.
I need a house call in Michigan. I’m not slaying and all the companies I talk to generalize in troubleshooting, I can’t find anyone to walk my lawn and diagnose.
super frustrating Jill! Just remember it all starts with water. if you haven't figured out your water output and proven your water coverage I would start there. do the video exercise at the end of the page at myallgreen.com/watering . check out my video "ultimate lawn fix"
You cant find anyone or you dont want to pay anyone, ya?
Trying to find a pest and lawn Ginja is like trying to find a needle in a haystack, there's a big difference between thinking you know what your talking about and knowing what your talking about,the pest and lawn Ginja knows what he's talking about, would gladly pay him money any day of the week just to come over and look at my lawn and advise me on what to do to make it look great but no not the pest and lawn Ginja no siree, he takes it up a notch and does it for free on RUclips, now I ask ya who does that who just gives you all the information that you need to have a fantastic looking lawn , the pest and lawn Ginja, that's who
Great videos Sir, thank you.
Glad you like them!
Love the diy videos thank you.. question for you or from a follower, are ants bad for the lawn? Today when mowing i looked down and seen a few thousand it seemed in one spot..just wondering thank you
Most ants are beneficial to lawns because they pave the tunnels that earth worms commonly use
@@pestandlawnginja copy that thank you..thought maybe they eat the roots..
Maybe some day you can do a vid on pocket gougher and moles, lol i am about ready to call in f4 phatoms to air strike with napalm. Been catching them easy with cinch traps made in Oregon. But gophers got educated or i am doing something different..i am in the pacific northwest..
Looks like a great area you live in..i can see cascades from my 2 acres, mt hood and rainer..take care god bless..oh i been doing what you showed on lawn grass and everyone that walks by stops and says wow your yard is great..thank you
@@bluesteel5841 rad! Keep slaying that lawn
Where is the most advanced one Acelepryn? Great video!
Good question! I'll have to try it out
Ok, I just put down the bio
advanced grub killer. when should I do the bio advance insect killer or the essential plus? I hardly saw any Japanese beetles this year unlike most every other year. This is my first bad experience with grubs. Some animals are really digging up allot of my yard to get at the grubs
commonly you'll need to do 2 treatments spaced 2 weeks apart of each other. the essentials plus can go down the same day.
ever have a repair area or large reseed area have odd spots that are slow to germinate, or do not sprout straight up, but rather look curled over? have a large reseed area i sprayed a month ago with tenacity, before throwing down seed, wondered if it could be the meso with some possible lingering in the soil. majority of seed came in growing straight ,never seen it before. made me wonder if pests could cause this.
chances are it comes down to watering. too much water will cause this and too little water during the germination process will cause this. i would do a water output cup test and prove your watering myallgreen.com/watering
I need you to come and fix my lawn!! 😬
sounds awesome!
Can you please advise products in Canada to revitalize grass left by grub damage ? Thanks
It’s mainly going to come down to fertilizing with a 12.12.12 and using an organic grub spore similar to Milky Spore
Hello Ginja, I have a small lawn. I put down grub control about 2nd week of June. It's now June 24th. Can I put down a treatment of Bioadvanced fungus granular and a ortho home defense granular at same time? I'm seeing a haze due to heat, humidity, and probably over-watering....some brown spots. Thanks
you can put those two items down at the same time. with that said I highly recommend you consult the label for the final say.
Hii Ginja thank you for your videos im in west valley 84120 my lawn is struggling the lawn is very compacted any recommendations please thank you
checkout my playlist "this is my lawn" I walk you through start to finish on my lawn to show you exactly how I fixed it over a season
Hello, I just treated my lawn with bioadvanced grub killer plus 4 weeks ago pretty heavily covering it twice but the grubs are now appear in other sections of the lawn. I’m in Texas. It’s killing my grass. Should I apply more before winter comes ? Lots of grass is completely dead. My neighbors have it too but I don’t think they treat it.
if you have them now you'll most likely have them in the future. I would start a quarterly treatment. they don't feed as often in the fall and over the winter as they do in the spring and late summer.
@@pestandlawnginja I agree, is there anything I can do before the winter so they don’t eat more roots ? Or am I going to have to wait. I’ve already done the grub killer plus about 4 weeks ago but don’t know if it’s a waste of money to do it again since it’s already November. I’m seeing new spot and I am sure it’s grubs. Thank you
Does the sum joe scarier do a good job for a solo operator with multiple yards?
i've had great luck hammering these machines. i've broke a few of them after about 15 to 20 heavy heavy uses where all lawns were virgin over 20 years. they take a beating but in the end they have some plastic parts that occassionally fail.
Does the BioAdvance Grub Killer Plus bring (in my case) leather jackets to the surface? I applied it last night and went out this morning to find them all over the surface of the lawn. When normally they would be 'grubbin' in the thatch layer. Wondering if the BioAdvance did that or if they just naturallly come to the surface in the morning and now i am just noticing because i applied the Trichlorfon (BioAdvance)? Thanks brotha!
wish i had an answer for you on that one. its possible it was repelling them for a bit. my opinion is it won't do that long term.
Can you treat grubs and firtilizing lawn close together? Thanks
Same day no problem
How about a chinch bug infestation? We've seen them in the lawn, shall we treat the area before our installer lays down our new sod?
Our area doesn't see much in regards to chinch bugs. but this method will work the same for chinch bugs. You an treat the area before you lay the sod but you may want to consider using milky spore instead and do a few applications .
@@pestandlawnginja I will check it out, thank you, you're the best!
Do you have any videos tackling a poa annua problem?
no, try poa cure. other than that most products only offer suppression
Hi Ginja,
Always on time with your vids. I overseed in 05.29.20 and 06.05.20 KBG first time I use scoots brand and my Seedlings are coming up nice, some of them have almost 2", some not even half, I guess from the 06.05.20 but, I have some fungus on the old Turf. My manicure has dried grass or fungus combo and he shares but, in genealogy my holes are filling up, also I have insects and for sure I'll have some larvae grubs (I saw the bettles all over),, I stopped the squirrels and other animals from making holes with bat and arches to hold it and works. . Yesterday I put down Jonathan's fungus control. My question is Can I apply the insecticide to the new baby grass or something else? . I got nematodes on the refrigerator but, yesterday I saw the fungus so, I'll use them only for around the bushes and not for the grass 'cause they die with the insecticide. The grass looks very funny with the Nets, everyone look when they walk the dogs. 😁Thank you
great question. the insecticides can be ok on new grass but it needs to be a light dose and I probably wouldn't use anything other than a bifenthrin based insecticide.
Will fescue grass seed grow in 95 degree summer? Some fescue seed got in my Bermuda grass here in Dallas tx on accident.
not very well. the germination rates increase as the temps decrease.
Okay new home owner here and I think I could really use your help in assessing my issues, you offer a virtual inspection? I’m in Seattle and would pay for that haha! Previous owner did a really good job and I’m late to the game and the weeds have a upper hand on me.
Any insights from the Ginja would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Hi there. I take all requests and pictures on facebook
Awesome, will be sure to hit you up on there soon
Glad you made this, everyone jumps to the conclusion "it must be grubs"
Amen to that 👏👏👏😍
Have to keep rewinding the video....can't stop looking at the mountains
love it!
Hi! Can you put the grub products down in July? Also, the repair products? I live in NJ😃
absolutely. No problems. just make sure you do it early morning before it gets too hot.
Would the "pull test" apply to lawns like bermuda that spread via rhizomes?
Yes
Can we aerate in Fall if we were stupid and planted seed at the end of March. Now were fighting weeds all the way to fall and will have bare patches to fix all over.....If we wait 6 months until September first and we aerate or is the grass to new to aerate?
tough question. it will depend on how well the grass took. if its nice and thick go for it.
I have a ton of worms, with a good beneficial mycorrhizal in the soil, and notice some grubs sometimes when pulling weeds or thick blade fescue out of the lawn. The lawn is in good shape, but i find grubs when working in the lawn. Is there a way to kill the grubs, without harming the worms and the mycorrhizal??
Most worms will not be harmed by use of insecticide due to their slimy coatings
Jared, I've thinking about the water retention properties of the peat moss in ProPeat. Do you think it would be beneficial to top dress a 7.5 pH lawn or specific problem areas that experience water retention issues with peat moss and then use the Sun Joe scarifier attachment to work it into the soil profile? Or would it negatively prevent deep water penetration and keep it in the upper soil profile where it will be more likely to evaporate?
I have mixed feelings on putting straight peat down. It really depends on the source of peat. Sometimes I feel the part doesnt mesh well in the soil and robs water. But other times its integrated well. Whatever propeat does to break it down works great
I love your puppy. He’s so cute. !!
Thank you! He’s a fun guy to have around
About once a week a skunk comes and rips up a hole in my lawn. I assume its trying to eat a grub but does that mean i have grubs or he was just looking or maybe it was just one or two random ones?
ugh!!! skunks cause soo much damage when they dig. Your assumption is probably right. they love grubs and worms of sorts. Start doing some random pull tests in the yard.
Best grub videos. Great work!
Glad you think so! I went for the gold on this one. Hope I delivered.
That Propeat 13-5-8 is difficult to find locally, is Scotts starter fertilizer (24-25-4) a good alternative?
the right type of fertilizer will depend on what's natively in your soil. If you have high phos in your soil you'll want to stay away from that particular bag you mentioned.
You alway do a amazing job at explaining everything thanks for all the hard homework an putting together another awesome video for us your the best bro.
super kind! appreciate it jeffery!
Great video man.
thank you!
Thank you for this video, Ginja!! I've been battling grubs in my lawn for years. Just to recap, I definitely do have grubs and since it is July, this is perfect timing. I need to treat my grass with Bioadvanced Complete Insect Killer to kill the grubs and as preventive. If I want to kill them faster, but without preventive benefits, I just use Bioadvanced Grub Killer Plus. To repair my anemic grass, I use Essential 101 in conjunction with the mentioned products. Do I need to add grass seed, too? And THEN add milky spore, treating my grass 2-3 times in the coming two years.
In the meantime, I've been spraying my grass with neem oil for the past two nights. Do you have any opinion on the efficacy of neem oil? In addition to the grubs in my grass, I also discovered grubs in my succulent garden, which is nowhere near any grass. I found them a few months ago when I was doing some planting. In one a small section I found 10 grubs. I sprinkled triazicide on the area. What is your opinion of that product? Thank you soooo much for any feedback you can offer me I'm ready to throw in the towel and just go artificial.
Hi Lisa! Love hearing your out slaying that lawn. You have a perfect approach. sounds like you got hit hard! Sorry to hear about that. The only thing I'd consider adding to your regimen before an overseed is dethatching once you get the grass back to a solid healthy state. The triazicide works great. I've used it before and it does what the label states. Keep slaying that lawn!
I have had Japanese beetle grubs in planting containers and in mulched planting beds - so I am not surprised you see grubs in any soil. Think about it - the adult insect laying the eggs is not always going to be intelligent about where the eggs are laid.
Hello mate I am in desperate need of help please. I would really appreciate some advice. My lawn is roughly 200sqm. Last spring we laid brand new turf, not long after a huge new home site was built behind which has driven millions of worms into our new soil and lawn. Fast forward a few months the whole lawn is gone and it’s just aerated soil from the worms.they are nearly at the outer bushes which cost a lot of money so I would like to save them if possible asap. Do you have any advice on how I can get rid of these worms and how I can prevent them reaching the bushes/tree soil. Thanks.
worms are a difficult task due to the slime on there bodies. there are a few sprays on the market commonly made of carboryl and imidicloprids that have claims to effect worm activities. my suggestion is to go to a local nursery to ask them what they have to sell you. I would combine this application with some dish soap to help drive said insects to the surfact. the soap will also help the product stick better and penetrate the ground. this is a tough situation. not seen often but it happens.
@@pestandlawnginja thanks for replying, sorry I have since found out that the problem is leather jackets. Thinking of using nemysis nematodes if you think that sounds right
@@charliepeters7122 great way to do it!
I have birds (I think) tearing up my yard to get to insects. But I can't find the insects. Has that ever happened to you before? Thanks from a fellow utah slayer.
I had grubs. I had birds coming and tearing up the lawn to get the grubs. Skunks and other animals would come and dig for the grubs. We treated for the grubs and they are now gone.
Commonly a sign you have an abundance of worms in the lawn. take it as a compliment from the birds. use the sun joe dethatcher to help break the mounds up.
Great video Ginja.
Thanks Mike! Appreciate you watching and commenting
Awesome videos and great info
Thanks for watching! Glad you're finding value tim!
Pest and Lawn Ginja you and Allyn “ LCN are the only ones that are putting out the greatest and professional knowledge of lawn care and diagnostic approaches, the others I feel are just pushing their own products and Lawncology said “ if you use my products you don’t have to aerate and don’t seed doing aeration, just throw the seed down and use my products, THE FURTHEST FROM THE TRUTH, sorry to vent, I will never buy his products again, tired of drinking that koolaid,, I believe that my lawn was riddled with issues last year and this spring, following Lawncology advice,but you were the one who got it going again, and the propeat works amazing, Thanks again for the awesome videos and awesome info, 👍👍
I need some advice. I installed a fertigation system called EZ-FLO and its a five gallon tank. My yard is 30,000 sf all full sun landscape. Just lawn. I bought this fertilizer called triple 12 by growth products. All of the golf courses in my area use this through out the spring summer and fall though their fertigation. It’s says that they use 96oz of fertilizer diluted in their 75 gallon tanks. To a hive 1 LB of nitrogen pee 1000 sf weekly. I broke my tank down to 6-7 oz of fertilizer diluted in a five gallon tank to achieve the same 1 LB per 1000 sf on a weekly basis. Can you confirm lawn ginga? I would put the product label here but I don’t see any place to post photos. I did check for grubs and I found none in spots that looked stressed. It’s just watering I had to bump up to one hour a zone three times a week to keep up with the 90 degree weather. Any advice?
Thanks
Gene
The difficult part is to figure out how much water output you have. see myallgreen.com/watering and perform the video exercise at the bottom of the page. you'll need 2" of water per week to keep up with evaporation. you'll also want to do this exercise to prove your sprinklers and overlap are proper. if they're not you run the risk of not getting fertilizer in those areas or potentially having some burn spots as well. As for the triple 12. it's a urea base and I personally wouldn't exceed more than 1.25lbs of N per month in any given situation besides recoving drought stress dormant areas. Doing math on liquid nitrogen sources is completely different than bags of fertilizer. it's best to use the rate listed on the bottle and not exceed 30oz per 1000 sq ft of product per month. That will keep you safe. There are a few liquid calculators to help figure out how much N is in the mix. but it does require some math and understanding net contents of the bottle. If you came out at 7oz per week per 1000 sq ft you should be safe.
Pest and Lawn Ginja my lawn sprinkler guy actually did this method a couple of months ago and came out with these figures. Plenty of over lap on every zone with each head overlaps g 10 feet. Now it took one hour per zone to collect a half inch of water. This was for the 180 degree hunter spray nozzles. I also have one zone going down the middle of the yard that are 360 degree heads and those took two hours to give me 1/2 inch of water because they had to make full revolutions. I just switched them over to three times per week at one hour per zone and I add a fourth time if I check my soil with my probe and see that the water is only down three inches. I know I’m good when my soil probe gives me a good six inch core of damp soil. You can email me at cleancars8@gmail.com and I can send you pics of my lawn and the dimensions of my yard which is really square. I have 80lbs of water pressure and get 6.7 gallons per minute all measured out by my sprinkler installer. I’ve just switched to a more liquid feeding for my lawn and less granular so that’s why I have all these questions. The fertigation system is taking quite a bit more calculation as with granular I can actually see what I put down quickly with my spreader where as with the fertigation system it takes like 4 weeks to see the actual product empty out. I suppose I could throw colored dye in the tank and run my zone to simulate the rate of application on different settings on my ez-flo system. Thoughts?
Awesome video like always 👍
Thank you so much 😀
Ginja- I’ve been using talstar p. Is that as good or inferior to what you recommend for pre and curative? Thx!
Its a decent curative for topical turf insects like webworms/cutworms etc.. I always add imidicloprid with the bifen for curative for grubs.
Are there any alternatives to Essential Plus 1-0-1 that you would recommend? Looks like shipping is a week out on Amazon and I'm not sure I can wait that long. Also, is there any issue applying curatives right before we are about to have a week of 50-ish degree high temperatures?
The best thing to do is to find some liquid humates, sea kelp and a calcium product as a supplement. humates and kelp would go down every 2 weeks.
The castings of Eisenia Fetidia (Red Wigglers, common name) have been shown to have insect repellant characteristics, interestingly enough. Have you experimented with the use of castings or tea in lawns? Do you know anyone who has?
I personally have not. i've spoken to suppliers that specialize in casting. the issue is you would have to use so much on a lawn that its becomes a hastle. which is why people use it in gardens due to the smaller space.
Great info Ginja. 👍🏻
Awesome! Glad you liked it
on my 5th bag spring early summer fall two years and more grubs than ever
Crazy
I noticed grub issue but we are in Nov in the 40-50 degree. When should I do the treatment?
I would use acelepryn now and then again in the spring
Can i fertilizer and do the spray for grub too? At the same time
absolutely
Thanks, very helpful!
You're welcome! Appreciate you watching and commenting Kimberly! Go slay that lawn!
Imidacloprid that you mix for a drench is a year long monthly process but it works like magic over time
true that