15W-50 MOBIL1 Reviewed By A Certified Lubrication Specialist
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2022
- Lake Speed Jr is a world renowned Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Analyst. In this video, Lake reviews the Virgin Oil Analysis results of Mobil 1 15W-50.
Drawing on his years formulating and testing engine oils and lubricants for Joe Gibbs Racing, Lake goes beyond just how many parts per million (ppm) of each additive are in the oil.
To get started with oil analysis, visit www.speediagno...
Mobil1 products are available at amzn.to/48iMiPx
This post contains affiliates links (that at no cost to you) I may earn a teeny tiny commission if you choose to purchase them.
For more about Lake's background, check out / @lakespeedjr.304
#motoroil #mobil1 
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i'm a lubrication engineer and am so glad to see another fellow specialist continually educating me on the finer things
Thank you sir! That’s why I’m here!
@@themotoroilgeek go on RUclips and in the search bar put in Conventional oil vs Synthetic a lab owner sets us straight. Good video to watch because he owns a oil testing lab
@@arthursmith643 I'll check it out. I've been formulating and testing oils for well over 15 years, so I'm curious to see what he says.
lubrication engineers unite 💪🏽
Can you do AMSOIL
I've been using this 15W-50 Mobil 1 in my two BMW boxers for years. These "oil head" bikes have a dry clutch, so engine and gearbox oil are separate unlike more modern water cooled boxers with wet clutch and shared engine/gearbox oil. Five quart jug at Walmart for about $25!
Thanks for sharing!
Another great instructional video Lake. Tremendous insight into the little discussed aspects of a very complex chemistry. Engine Oils in particular are largely misunderstood by so many people. Well explained.
Thank you sir!
You had to show a honda d... I've been using this oil in a turbo d16a6, I built in '04. It's currently in my daily driver. The only oil system mod was opening the main bearing passages to match the cap bridge. It's done many low 12s and probably has 40k+ miles currently. I'm so glad I found this channel.
Good to know! I'm considering using this in my 356K mile D16Y7 with somewhat worn bearings and damaged cylinder walls from being driven with a blown head gasket and then sitting with moisture in the engine before I got the car. It actually runs great and sounds completely healthy, but it has quite a bit of blow by and burns some oil but surprisingly little considering the terrible condition of the cylinders. Eventually I'm going to either do a proper rebuild or a swap, but for now, I'm thinking a thicker oil should help keep it going for as long as possible.
Nice! I'm using this oil in my stock 356K mile D16Y7 and it's never run so smooth and quiet since I've had it. It's semi daily driven in the warmer months and stored for the winter, so no issues with cold flow in my case. Definitely wouldn't be the best choice for cars that regularly get started much below freezing though.
Hi Lake, Thanks for doing what you do for us car guys and gals out here. There's a lot of talk out there about direct injection like my 2023 6.2 liter 2SS Camaro. I picked this video because the 15W-50 Mobile 1 is one of the recommended oils to use in my car if it was going to be tracked. My owners manual says to use Mobil 1 0W40 but doesnt specify which blend. ESP, Supercar, etc. but i have been told not to use the european blend. I can also use Mobil 5W-30 R Thats; a lot of choices without much clearification. Now my car hasn't reached its recommended 1500 mile break in but i did have the oil changed per the owners manual 500 miles at my dealership. The service writer could not tell me which oil they used but assured me it was safe for my car. Haha ! Sorry this is long winded. I guess my question is, since Mobil 1 ESP and Supercar are impossible to find on the shelf here in Maryland, Is there another oil you could recommend to use in their place and any other detail you'd like to add.
I think this would be a great video for you to cover this issue
Thanks
I’ve always run this oil (in synthetic form) in my boat engines which are run at a constant rpm of 3200 and under a load the whole time. I like the peace of mind that I have the protection there. Great stuff.
Thanks!
I ride bikes and 3200 rpm is dawdling along at 20mph!
@@mickleblade But at 3200RPM in a boat the motor is working pretty damn hard even tho the revs are somewhat low. My last boat cruised at about that RPM, and over 1/2 throttle, just to do a bit over 20 MPH.
@@DonziGT230 and to add the boat motor is also under more load then a car or bike motor because it’s moving/pushing more weight thru the water then other vehicles on 2 or 4 wheels.
Also, Guys using this M1 15w-50 oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch should keep in mind that (if I’n not mistaken) has viscosity improvers in it that in some cases (power adders increasing hp/trq),riding 2up & bags loaded) can cause a wet clutch to slip.
@@scottwheaton9689 I used it in a few bikes, at least one of which I did some drag racing with, and had no issues. Many people on a bike forum I'm on also used it. It was a long time ago and the formula might have changed so I can't guarantee it's still clutch friendly.
I use this in my air cooled Harley Davidson. Very happy with it!
Hi Lake! Nice to see you're still active in the lubrication field! Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
@themotoroilgeek mate I'm confused about oil like 10w 15w 20w why exist? The 0w 5w do they have the best cold start protection? correctly? or I am wrong?
I started using Mobil 1 when it first came out around 77. I had a 77 f150 which I put 150K miles on and sold it to a friend. Later on something happened to the engine and his mechanic told him it was a fresh rebuild as it was so clean. He called me to see who rebuilt it and I told him it was the original engine. My truck had 4:11 gears and was driven at full throttle much of it's life.
The original stuff was way ahead of it's time.
@@themotoroilgeek The second major formualtion was the good stuff, the first formulation was almost entirely PAO with a small amount of solvent refined mineral oil as an additive carrier, it was one of the reasons early synthetics got a bad name for causing leaks, Early Amsoil was heavily di-ester based and it had a tendency to over swell or melt seals and Mobil 1 had a tendency to shrink or rot seals, but pretty early on Mobil1 switched from using PAOs and using Grp1 to add back polarity to Using PAOs with neopentyl polyol esters to add polarity which resulted in a lubricant with more balanced elastomer compatibility , Amsoil did the same thing too.
@@brandonupchurch7628 I knew the first Amsoil was Diester based, and Mobil 1 was PAO/Ester. However, I didn’t know they tried a straight PAO / Group I blend before going to the PAO/Ester blend. Thanks for the history lesson!
Somebody was keeping the oil companies is business
@@brandonupchurch7628 Doesn't Amsoil buy their base stock from Mobil1? Or someone else?
Oh, to add to my last comment about the 2 different looking jugs.... On the back of the 'red 15w 50' one.... It says 15,000 miles instead of 10, 000. Where it compares the different oils with the different boxes check marked. So something is definitely different about it. I figured u were the guy to ask and clear up w some of us who were wondering. Thanks again
Great to see actual engineering information versus the endless B.S. spouted over and over again. Thanks!!
Thanks!
My exact statements(?)
Its always worked fantasfically in my HD's. I will continue to use this oil.
This has been my oil of choice for all my older flat tappet vw engines that get driven hard and raced at autox events. Never had any issues on any engine ever.
I have used this oil for years here in Las Vagas in my 67 Olds 330....It is clean as a whistle inside and runs just fine...
Dont know anything about oil. Took me about 20 years to put 250.000 miles on a 84 Subaru using Mobil 1 15 50 and a Frantz oil cleaner. I used a Frantz adapter that eliminated the full flow filter. Never drained the oil. Changed the Frantz every 12.000 miles and added a quart of Mobil 1. Was talking about it on RUclips. A Caterpillar lab manager sent me a sample kit. He said the oil looks good for that many miles but suggested I change the Frantz and add a quart of Mobil 1 every 6.000 miles. That would be twice a year. I felt that the heat here in Dallas Texas required a thicker oil. At somewhere over 260.000 miles both head gaskets started leaking oil. Gave it to a friend. He just started using a less expensive oil. When he went to Iraq it had over 300.000 miles on it. Lost track of it.
It's good to see a knowledgeable persona on this topic. I have always, and still do, put my faith in " Bob Is The Oil Guy " and support his ramblings. Much has changed since his hey day. My old '92 Lumina with a 3.1 V6 had a radiator fit for a truck. So when I put the first charge of Mobil 1 in it, I lost a considerable amount of passenger cabin heat during winter months ! I compensated by superimposing a make shift block off grill similar to what the transport trucks use. And as they say " Bob remained my Uncle " ! Stay true to your ethics my good man and a subscriber you shall have.
Thanks!
Did your car not have a thermostat in the cooling system ?
There are some very knowledgeable posters on Bob Is The Oil Guy.
The engine chewed that M1 15w50. Viscosity @100C went from 18.9 cst to 8.2 cst ... in 7 hours! That's a test! It Ate the P also, from 1100ppm to 850 ppm, samecwith most add elements...
In the end, we found out they actually used Mobil 1 5W-30 in the engine for the dyno test instead of 15W-50, but that only came to light because these results were so alarming.
Ah, I see. That explains the difference.
Holy cats, the 8.2 cSt result was actually for 5w-30? I "wasted" a lot of time trying to track that down. You should add a note in the Description that points out the mistake. You can edit the description field you know, even on a pretty old video.
I've always used Mobil 1 15w50 in my race/street cars, yard equipment and 4-stroke trail bikes. Been using it for decades. Sorry to see they significantly changed the formula. Had already had some in stock, but went out and bought all the older RED label 15w50 I could find to keep in reserve. Have 15 5qt jugs in stock that should last me a while. Also been trying to find non-SP oil for my regular commuter cars. Thanks for the info!
The SP formula actually provides better wear protection than the older formula. Less Calcium means less competition for the ZDDP, which makes the ZDDP more effective. All of that to say, don’t worry about the formula change.
15W-50 M1 is nowhere near the same oil it started out as. Many people are unaware that oil formulations change all the time. As always, the goal is the result. M1 15W-50 remains an excellent choice for high stress, high temperature, and turbocharged engines.
Do you have an email to contact you? I bought a mobil 1 15w50 red label oil but the seal does not say mobil as other oils should be like that?
Pls I need you
Love this - not sure why but I’ve become a car repair enthusiast. And really on efficiently made cars, not necessarily the fastest and flashiest and how cars work. Thank you for your work!
Thank you!
Back last century I used the 15w50 Mobil 1. Later I learned that 5w40 synthetic oil of any brand, gets way better performance in any weather. Also the fuel economy is superior. And in a 4 cylinder engine, there is noticeably more power available for forward motion.
On older engines thicker oil can help increase compression closer to when it was new if there's wear. Thinner doesn't always mean more power.
Mobil 1 V twin is a great oil for flat tappet older style engines during extreme summer heat here in the southern United States. Resist breakdown from heat & has a good amount of zddp without becoming acidic
I have run this in My KTM 450 for 13 years in both sides of the Engine (clutch and engine are separate) with no issues or slipping.
Thanks for the comment. The low level of Moly makes it ok to use on the clutch side. They have a motorcycle specific formula that we are going to check out as well.
@speediagnostix update? I was wanting to use the mobile 1 15-50 for my motorcycle with dry clutch.
Mobil 1 15w50 w/ Motorkote and Wix XP filter is the lubrication combination in my CTS-V Coupe LS434 w/15+ lbs of boost!!!
All my baseline samples go against my future samples for all ISO4406 and viscosity and contamination parameters, congrats on this video
Thanks! You have the right program! Great job!
I'd like to see the HTHS numbers in your reviews. I wonder if that's changed also. By memory, the previous generation M1 15W-50 HTHS was 5.11. EDIT: the nerd in me forgot to say "thank you" for the superb oil review.
Thanks for the suggestion. HTHS would be a great addition. As the channel becomes monetized, we will be able to invest in more testing, which will be great fun!
4.5
Yeah. Been using Mobil 1 on my highly modded, big turbo ford and I’m at 105k miles and the engine is clean and pure as it was day 1. I definitely attribute it to good oil and quality gas.
Quality gas is something I think a lot of people overlook as well when it comes to longevity of a vehicle.
I agree wholeheartedly about the quality gasoline. Using Top Tier fuel makes a difference!
so true each gas brand has different additives, 76, chevron and shell are top
@@salami99Exxon? Mobil?
@@RFJersey non existent brands where I live. I met a former petro tester for chevron recently and he said the 4x more additives is true for the brands I listed compared to say arco,costco,sinclair, or other brands, but also said Techron is all marketing fwiw.
Interesting reviews, Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Subscribed
Thanks!
don't know how much it has improved but back in the day when i used to run high boost turbos mobil one would start loosing viscosity at less then 2K miles, valvoline synthetic would always hold up until 3k oil change.....
A 15W-50 typically will shear easier than a 20W-50.
Thank you.
This is excellent info.
What is the addtive that kills wet clutch engines.
Motorcycle engines, it only hurts the clutch.
Thanks
Thanks for the question. Molybdenum is what hurts the clutch performance.
I had a feeling it was molly.
Now I know what to avoid.
Thank you.
Question about mixing oils: I have an AMG M156 which is a DOHC flat tappet V8 calling for 0W-40 or 5W-40 meeting the MB 229.5 spec. I've owned it since new (2009) and has 56k miles now, and had exclusively used Mobil1 in those viscosities. A year ago I inspected the valvetrain and found some wear on the intake cams and bucket tappets. The cams weren't bad enough to replace (yet), but I did replace all the tappets with the later coated versions. Since doing that maintenance, I've been using a mixture of Mobil1 15W-50 and 0W-40, roughly 50:50 in proportion. The reasons are to get more film strength from the higher overall viscosity but also to get more zinc for the valvetrain. I figured that only using 15W-50 might interfere with cam phaser operation and also not allow enough flow through the bearings. I live in SoCal, so it really doesn't get cold here.
Finally the question: is this mixing of oils a good strategy for this application based on the previous valvetrain distress?
Thanks for the question. Since those two oils are very different in base oil blends and additive packages, I’d go with one or the other. Have you done any used oil analysis yet? That’s the measuring stick to help you get the wear protection you are looking for. Have you considered the 5W-50 or going to a different 5W-40 instead?
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks for the answer. Since there's nothing in Mobil's documentation about base oil blend/type, all I had to go by was that both of these oils are "fully synthetic" and assumed (I know, bad idea) that both came from the same stock. I have never done oil analysis on this engine but looks like it's a good idea going forward. I will also test new samples of various oils I'm considering using to establish baselines. Problem is, the car only sees about 2500 miles/yr and only gets annual oil changes so it will take a while to get a trend. I've been using this 15W-50+0W-40 mixture for almost two years now, so it's time to inspect the valvetrain and see how that's holding up.
This car does not have an oil cooler fan and will see >120 C oil temps in high ambient and low speed conditions (sitting in traffic on the freeway in summer). Knowing that, plus the flat tappet distress previously from mostly using M1 0W-40 European Formula, which oil + viscosity do you recommend for this application? M1 FS 5W-50? It's NA and port-injected, so no LSPI concerns.
@@heinrichgerhardt6119 we are happy to help! Since you do annual oil changes and have a couple years on your current blend, now is a great time to take a sample and start building a baseline.
Since your engine has been on the Mobil 1 products, try the 5W-50 first and see how that compares to the current blend.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks! Will do both of those. Also, found this nice overview of Mobil 1 products: www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/project/wep/mobil/mobil-row-us-1/pdf/mobil-1-engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf
Rowe oil makes a pao based 0w40 for the mercedes spec.
Nice Lake. Dr Ron
Thank you sir!
Hi Lake. Thanks again for everything. I was wondering if u ever did a voa on mobil1 20/50 v twin motorcycle oil? I'm trying to find out if it's a group 4 and 5 instead of group 3. The additive package has high boron just like the 'fs' oils that could b indicitive of ester/pao but I don't know for sure. I haven't seen the oxidation value to know. Thought u may have done one in the past. Thanks so much!
I've not done that one yet.
Thanks!
Used this oil in my 98 Honda Accord as a kid for years even in the 05 Accord and 04 Acura tl
Can you do a test on Hot Shot’s Secret FR3 friction modifier to find out what’s in it?
I use this oil in my motorcycle. It's similar to their VTwin oil and a lot cheaper.
Fwiw if anyone interested, i put 400,000 miles on my '02 santa fe, and always used synthetic oil (mostly castrol syntec; some mobile 1). It was burning only about one qt between oil changes until i sold it to my friend (he wrecked it :(.
Great info.. run big boost turbo … 5-50 RLI is what I run…
Would love to see a review of the 5w50
We can add that to the list
Based on your great videos and other sources i’m switching from castrol classic 20w50 to Mobil 1 15w50 in my 67 beetle and 69 BSA air cooled motors. would this be wise or a mistake? i bought the oil but haven’t done the change over. also, i have a 2022 Triumph rocket which i’m running amsoil 15w50 in. would Mobil 1 15w50 work for the engine/trans/wet clutch? i would like to kick the amsoil high priced habit. thanks in advance, keep up the good videos
I'm thinking of doing the same in my type 4.
I’d like to see an evaluation of using lighter weight oils in the winter.
If you had to choose between this Mobil 1 or the VR1 racing oil in the Kawasaki air-cooled V twin engines on almost every commercial mower, which would be your pick?
I am currently using the 20w-50 VR1 racing oil in the black bottle.
The VR-1 synthetic is a great choice
What would a couple drops of pure silicone oil do to motor oil? Say...for the shocks of an RC car? Would that negate foaming from an additive such as Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer? I already use silicone grease on the O-Rings for cartridge oil filters on a Chevy Trax and 2019 Volkswagen Golf R. No problems. Going to start using it on the oil filter gaskets of my sister's Ford Fiesta. Those get stuck on there so easily.
Love this channel!!!
How can this discussion go on and on and on.
I use this on my air cooled 86 Porsche. Still add some Zink
Any chance you might be able to test and compare Mercury Marine 4 cycle engine oil against let say Mobil 1 15W-50?
Hi Lake. I never thought my main 2 channels on RUclips would b oils/lubricity/engine components ('total seal' and your other channels) etc. U and 'lubrication explained' are such a great synergy. He's also a nice guy. Really do love your stuff and his also. How would u rate 'antimony' in with zddp, boron, Moly, etc. Shaeffers uses some of that. And how much ppm is needed for positive effect? Because their (schaeffers) amounts are very low. Like under 50ppm. Would it compete w those other anti-wears and b more harmful than good, or would they all play nice together and b better than just one. Thanks so much!
I'd love to get my oil analysed, however the cheapest offering that gives a detailed report is 150$ a shot. So if I were to do a before / after it would be 300$ for 5-10k miles... Yikes
Can a driver notice if LSPI is occurring? Or does it show up in Knock value with a computer and tuner?
LSPI will show up if you have knock sensors and are data logging. It typically occurs near peak torque and at lower engine temperatures.
It is audible, just like regular engine knock.
Make a video on oils for hydrogear hydrostatic transmissions
Any 20w50 will be fine as Long as it meets the requirements. Hydro oil I stressed a lot less than engine oil. I use vr1 and mine feel really good.
Hi Lake. Thanks again for all that u do. I know u don't recommend adding things to oil. But just for general knowledge about Boron. Q#1) how many ppm r actually effective? I understand there's a synergy and balancing act w other competing and assisting additives but still..... What r your thoughts on a ppm #. 2ndQ)what is boron oxide verses nitride? And which is more effective? What's happening on a micro-level? Thanks so much!
I’m happy to help. Boron additives vary widely, so it is impossible to set a ppm of Boron on a VOA or UOA because of these variables.
Great info! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I use MONIL 1 15W50 in my 1986 ALFA ROMEO SPIDER & 1988 ALFA ROMEO MILANO. They are suppose to take a 10W50 but that is near impossible to find in the USA except for some motorcycle shops.
Thanks for the comment. the 15W is fine for ambient temperatures down to -14F.
@@themotoroilgeek during the winter months I would use Castrol Syntec 5W50. I can't find it anymore thou.
@@carlgreisheimer8701 It is better to stick with the same brand oil and not change back and forth. Different oils have different additive packages, so the change in oils creates an unsettling of the additive film on the parts. In fact, we typically see an uptick in wear metals on the first oil change using a different brand oil. That goes away with subsequent oil changes as the additive film stabilizes.
@@themotoroilgeek they are both 50 weight. The 5W is better suited for winter.
@@carlgreisheimer8701 sorry for any confusion. While a 5W-50 will flow better in the winter than a 15W-50, the real question is what is the coldest ambient temperature at which you will start the vehicle.
It is better to use a slightly higher viscosity oil than switch between different oils as long as the thicker oil is still within the operating temperature window.
In my country only can buy Castrol power 4s 15w50 motorcicle api Sj... Is good for mi nissan 1.6 16v 97'? Or better a simple 10w40 shell?
Would love to see you do a comparison between the various offering from Mobil 1 - in particular the EP formulation
That’s on the list of things to do…
That would be awesome! Look forward to getting to watch it. Keep up the great work. Love the detailed and scientific approach to your channel.
I'm currently using Delo 400 SDE 15w40 in my Harley. I add a touch of the additive liqui moly mos2 (moly) . In your honest opinion what would you recommend to run in an air cooled engine that tends to run hot. Thanks in advance
The Driven GP-1 oils already contain Moly so they would not need any extra additive. They work extremely well in air-cooled engines.
Hi Lake. Not that this matters but for people like me who were wondering if there's a difference between the 2 different looking containers. One has the "15w 50" on the front right written in white (like the one u r showing) and the other one has the "15w 50" written in red. The red is a formula not sp rated. Have u ever done an analysis on that formula? I have 2 jugs here that I thought was the formula u just spoke about but it's not. I'm just wondering what could b different? Calcium probably? Just thought I'd mention it in case it helped anyone. I've many many oil 'threads' where it was asked and no one knew including me. But the 'sp' is missing on the red one. Not the red cap one that people talk about in years past but the one I described in this comments. If u know of any significant differences, that would b great to know. Thanks! We all love your channel and what u do!
If the "red" letter container is listed as API SN, then it is the older formula with the higher calcium.
I was wondering if a pao/Ester group 4 and 5 tend to transfer heat better than a group 3? Or r they basically the same? 2nd Qustion: a real life experience that actually happened w me is that I had an old Nissan hardbody w a 2.4 engine always running conventional... I had the egr removed the whole time I owned it.... It always had some predictable detonation (lspi) all the time in the summer. I switched one time to supertech synthetic and out of nowhere the detonation stopped and didn't return. I put conventional back in and it appeared again. I know that's not a group 4 or 5 but just the fact of being 'synthetic' of the same grade 10w/30...could it have transferred heat just a little better just under the point of detonation? Or maybe less friction? But it definitely happens like clockwork on that vehicle. So I know something is definitely happening. Thanks again!
Great question (and thanks for sharing your experience). Yes, the Group IV/V blend has a higher specific heat capacity, so it can cool better.
The mobile 15 50 I get has the numbers in red And it has a shit ton of zinc in it. Walmart got it on sale for only 25$ for 5 quarts
Now it contains zero zinc
can put ZDDP in any oil
@@curtismccombs2212 where? are you sure u got the same kind as me?
@TommTooTone I can't find it anywhere, I even ordered it off Amazon and got zero zinc. I switched to ZR1 20w50..
Here's another question I really was hoping u could answer. From what I can tell, these new mobil1 fsx2 r in a different category and seem very quality. Being a group 4 and 5 instead of 3, and having the high boron and good additive package.... Would u expect the 5w/50 fs x2 to perform just as well as this 15w/50 in wear tests over time? Just your honest thoughts based on what u know. Because I'm using that also in another vehicle. On paper it all sounds too notch. Maybe comparable to pennzoil ultra but w better viscosity for vehicles that do well w it? But u may know something I don't so I figured I'd ask. Thank you!
Thanks for your Video, I drive a Mercedes V6 supercharged usually I use Mercedes genuine oil expect recently I discovered it was a counterfeit, the Approved oil are 5w40 and 5w50 ..I started using Liqui Moly 5w40 as I read it's a great oil but the problem I drive a lot and it's expensive around here , which oil do you recommend.
Thanks for the question. The answer is to do used oil analysis. That is the only way to know how the oil is working in your engine.
Thank you for the info.
My new car is using oil within company specs but factory oil is 0W20 and will 5W30 be better?
That is a great question. Going to a thicker viscosity might not reduce oil consumption. There are several things that can lead to oil consumption- the volatility of the base oil, the surface finish of the cylinder walls, the piston ring tension, the state of the break-in of the piston rings to the cylinder wall. These are just some of the variables.
Since it sounds like your car is fairly new, check out this video ruclips.net/video/MhA_nVRhYew/видео.html
If anything, try a 5W-20 instead of the 0W-20.
I'm sure that this analysis would be of interest to the people who race or have super high performance engines. But I think that an analysis of more commonly used oils in the current majority of vehicles requiring synthetic 0W20, 5W30, 10W30, etc., would have been of more interest.
albisasky766, Search his RUclips library & you'll find Lake Jr. has done analysis of the oil viscosities your interested in.
Would love to hear your views on Brad Penn 20/50
Thanks for the suggestion!
I think I saw on one of your other videos u posted a "cam lobe wear" testing side by side with maybe valvoline vr1 and some others. If I recall, this 15w 50 was by far the best w the least amount of wear. Did I see that correctly? Would u expect that same kind of protection in cylinders, bearings, timing chain, etc? That's telling me this is a really good oil that could make engines last much longer. I'm interested in this because I already was using this on some vehicles and I wanted to really verify that it's that good. Would u attribute just the thicker viscosity (film strength) mainly, or just the whole synergy of the package. Because it's a group 3 and has a good bit of zddp and low detergent, but not too much boron. I'm asking because I am just gonna keep using this oil of real work results and your lab tests show much reduced metal-wear. Once again... Thank u so much... U r very appreciated by many people.
hey lake are you not longer working for driven oils company ?
I don’t work for Driven anymore.
will this oil work in a 1997 Harley EVO engine?
Lake! Thanks for explaining , my question is the thicker oil effecting variable valve timing , this is interesting the phasers on the cam run off pressure
Great question! With modern variable valve timing engines, it is important to maintain the OEM recommended viscosity in order to keep the proper pressure since that is part of the “calculation” the engine ECU uses.
What? You mean that buddy on Bob is the Oil Guy with a '93 Grand Marquis and 30,000 posts is talking out of his ass??
@@dadgarage7966 LOL
@@themotoroilgeek Incorrect.
If VVT systems were affected by the viscosity of the oil, there would be a big problem during startup, when the oil is thick and cold.
Furthermore…many manufacturers specify different oil viscosities in different geographical locations (i.e. North America vs. hotter climates like Middle East or Australia).
This, along with claiming that “modern engines have closer tolerances or clearances or oil passageways, and therefore must use a thin viscosity oil”, are oft-repeated internet myths.
Still cool that there’s a RUclips channel dedicated to oil analysis, though. I’m just finding your channel and will be checking out more of your content.
@@johnmpifer Good point. Thanks for the comment. I have seen issues when going too thin on viscosity. Fortunately, some engines now have solenoids that control the pressure relief valve to deliver the desired pressure on demand nearly independent of the oil viscosity.
Is this Mobil 1 15W-50 the exact same oil as Mobil 1’s 15W-50 Racing? Which has the “Racing” designation (along with the checkered flags) on the outside of the bottle. And if not, maybe consider doing a video comparing these two. Thanks! 👍
It is the same product
Please test Chevron Delo 15/40 for diesels. Thanks
That's the next one coming up!
You are my go to guy for oil. Question, I am rebuilding my 5.7 vortec engine. After break in I am planning to use high milage synthetic oil. I have a high volume oil pump and I understand this oil flows better. Also, the zinc and phosphorus will protect the bearings better. Am I wrong on this? Thanks
High mileage oil won’t hurt a newer engine but isn’t neccessry either. These high zddp oils are not ideal for vehicles with catalytic converters.
I felt like doing some thing different and I put 50/50 blend of m1 5w40 and 15w50. I live in the south where it’s really hot right now. Wanted a thicker oil for summer use. Should I stop doing this?
What did he say in English
It was all plain English.
The Motor Oil Geek, which oil do you think is of better quality…Mobil1 0W-20 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20?
Are you also an expert on Kentucky Jellys and other lubrication?
Hi Lake. I've heard what u have said about different oils w high detergent causing more wear because of competing w zddp, Moly, etc. But would u say that a calcium that's high, like Mobil 1 5w50.... Would the boron levels being over 200 and the zddp around 1000 and Moly near 100...would that offset the wear? Particularly the boron. Or would u expect that additive pack to still have more wear when compared the the Mobil 1 15w50? With relatively low calcium, higher magnesium, low boron and Moly? Thanks
It is always a balancing act, and the ppm levels alone don’t tell the whole story. The efficacy of each additive can vary by manufacturer and spec (with the same ppm results), which is why used oil analysis is vital for determining how an oil actually works in a specific application.
Can you cover diesel engine oil. I’m curious about the additive packages and HTHS ratings.
We will cover some diesel oils as well.
Use this as my Summer oil in my RZR 570. Do you do filter reveiws?
Lake, would tungsten be a good anti-wear additive for pushrod and flat tappet engines? I'd love to see a review of the Molygen 15W50 & 5W50.
Great channel
Thank you!
So glad I came across your channel.
I have a question. I have a 2015 Fird Escape with the 2.0 liter Ecoboost running 5W30 with about 155k miles on it.
as we all know these engines like most TGDI engines suffer from oil dilution. I have tried all sorts of "synthetic-synthetic blends oils.
I of course worry about the lspi because I do more city than highway so alot of stopping or ideling, causing lspi etc...
based on the information I have provided and your experience in lubrication , can you please reccomened a few different motor oils that you would use with an engine like this?
Thank you.
I'm happy to help. The two key things are... First, only use an API SP oil. That will have the correct additive package. Second, look for the oil with the lowest centistoke value at 40C.
I'm going to do a video specifically about LSPI in the future that will explain the why behind these suggestions.
I'd even check your owners manual to see if 5W-20 is an option. Since you are doing city driving, you want an oil with less low temperature viscosity.
Those two things will greatly reduce the risk of LSPI.
Here's the bonus tip: LSPI typically occurs at colder engine temperatures, so make sure to let the engine warm up good before getting on the throttle hard.
@@themotoroilgeek
Yes all oils I use have this rating. Now you don't say if I should use a blend even though even a full 100% synthetic is not a "Ttue synthetic because it still use base 3 oils.
In addition to this question what would be some of the brands you would recommend?
In regards fo the centistrokes at 40c.
From whatI have read on the Viscosity charts it shows that iso and AGMA oils base centstokes at 40C . MOTOR OILS AND HYDRALIC oils base centistoke values at 100C.
Is this correct?
So either way how do I find a motor oil and determin which has the lowest centistrokes at that temp?
Forgot to mention I lobe in Wisconsin so we get all 4 Seasons. Our winters are cold though.
@@btbd2785 In the case of LSPI, the data doesn't show a significant difference in LSPI tendency between Group III and Group IV base oils. The key is the additive package, and all API SP oils are tested to protect against LSPI. That is the single most important thing. If you have an API SP oil and warm you engine up before driving, you are good. Don't worry about the base oil type.
The centistoke viscosity at 40C is on almost all product data sheets, and since you are in Wisconsin, look at pour point as well. The lower the better.
I have a 3.5l ecoboost in my f150 and I was getting more and more timing chain rattle/slap on startup and though it was done for and needed a new chain/adjusters and cam phasers. A new oil change and no more timing chain slap. I’m thinking it either sheared down or diluted so much that the timing chain adjusters couldn’t stay pumped up over night.
@@FishFind3000 Probably both. Analyzing the used oil would tell you for certain if it is a fuel dilution problem, which is common in DI engines, especially if they run on 87 Octane fuel. PolyEtherAmine based fuel detergent additives can clean injectors in Direct Injection engines and help with that.
great content my old camry used any kinda oil cheapest i find change conventional every 3k bi engine issue over 300k 15 years. I cant decide with new rav 4 to stick with oem or go to penz mobil or valv to save few bucks. Does mobil make toyota oil its hard to make this choice now lol
Thanks!
Amsoil signature series 100% synthetic motor oil?
I never saw this before and am glad I did. We just bought a Toyota Grand Hylander a turbo four. I am going to inquire where the oil is changed and ask for samples. I have done some of your steps on a 20hp Koehler engine on a zero turn. I added spraying down the areas of filer, drain plug, and dip stick with WD 40? Also inside the oil pan? Are you related to Lake Speed the Winston Cup driver? Do you test oil? Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Yes, that is my dad, and we do have a business that tests oil. www.speediagnostix.com
what do you think of ceramic oil addatives ? thanks
Great question. In my experience both formulating oils and testing oils, oil additives are not a good idea. If your current oil lacks a necessary component, just use a different oil.
Plus any additive that is a hard particle, will actually increase wear. I have a video about that coming in the next few months.
@@themotoroilgeek thank you for the response, and input, ill be watching. good day
will you do schaffer oil sample and your thoughts for commercial mowers and sxs and motul 300v thanks I subscribed
Thanks! We do have new oil data on both Schaffer and Motul 300V on our website: www.speediagnostix.com/new-oil-analysis
@@themotoroilgeek I didn't see 20 50 schaffer or motul 300v on your website?
@@shanepipkin4041 here are the links:
www.speediagnostix.com/new-oil-analysis/schaeffers
www.speediagnostix.com/new-oil-analysis/motul-300v
Requesting your opinion on using Mobil 1 Supercar oil in a 2016 Camero 2SS vs other premium oils such as Amsoil or Ultra Penzoil. I'm concerned about the additive package in the Mobil 1 Supercar oil for a direct injection high performance engine. I don't mind paying extra for Amsoil.
Hi Lake, thanks for the awesome insight. I am an absolute oil change sticker, I have a 2021 vehicle with 6500 miles on and already changed the oil 3 times. Once I am happy with the break in ( long 800 mile trips ) I will settle down to 5K mile oil change intervals. I do have a question for you. My truck is a 2021 Silverado with the 5.3L V8 ...there have been issues with lifter failure on the earlier models as well as I have concerns about direct injection causing carbon build up. I have narrowed down my selection of oil going forward and wonder if you can tell me what you think. I bought Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W20 and it is Dexos 1 GM Approved. It also says suitable for Hybrid vehicles. Is this good for my Truck or a bad choice. ? Thanks
Thanks for the comment and the question. Any oil that is GM Dexos 1:Gen 2 approved is great for your engine. I would also recommend using a Poly Ether Amine based fuel additive once every 3,000 miles. This will help keep the injectors clean, which reduces fuel dilution in the oil.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you, do you have an additive you recommend ? maybe Redline 60103 ?
@@logicalguy488 That's a good option. Gumout's All-In-One formula is also a decent option.
You need to disable the AFM
Thanks for the great video, Lake. A question please, what is the ASTM test for the Oxidation Value test (7.3 in that case)? and, did you review any ester based PCMO before?
Thanks. We use ASTM E2412 to detect Oxidation level, and we have analyzed Ester based formulas. Of course, the oxygen atoms in the Ester base oil raise the initial Oxidation value of the Ester based oils.
Thanks,@@themotoroilgeek! Isn't FT-IR is for the used oil oxidation detection in abs/cm? and the higher the number the more oxidized the oil (the worse)?. But in the video, the higher the oxidation value, the better the oil. Is it the same measurement?
@@heshamnasrel-din7682 The higher the number, the greater the oxidation, but Ester base stocks already contain oxygen. As such, they have a higher oxidation level to begin with. That's the key difference here - we are looking at new oils not used oils.
Hi, I’m an Amsoil fan and can you confirm that there’s a difference between full synthetic and 100% synthetic and do you agree that 100% synthetic performs better, I guess depending on the mfg co and formulation?
Thanks for the question. Amsoil makes good products. They do all their own blending and testing in house, so that makes them fairly unique in the lubricant business.
The debate between full synthetic and 100% synthetic is really splitting hairs over marketing terms. Engines can't read the label on the bottle. All they care about is how the complete oil formula performs in the conditions to which that engine is subjected. This is why used oil analysis is so important. It is what tells us what is actually happening in the engine versus what the marketing guy tells us "should" be happening in the engine.
I will a video in the future that digs into some the marketing terms to make more sense of things.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you for your response! I heard that the 100%\ full synthetic differentiation was due to a law suit between Mobil and Castrol, so full synthetic was assigned to group 3 oils, which is a synthesized petroleum product and 100% synthetic was assigned to group 4, polyalphaoelefin base , and group 5, which is all other synthetic base oils, so it sounds like there’s a product difference and it’s more than marketing. I agree that oil analysis is the best way to tell how the product in question is doing. I saw an analysis report recently that a guy posted on line, that showed in his specific vehicle, Mobil 1 after 4,000 miles. While the oil didn’t have any significant wear metals or the like, the oil viscosity measurement in centistokes, lost grade and dropped from a 30 weight to a 20 weight! That would concern me, especially after only 4,000 miles!
@@darrylsjodin7184 that is exactly y AMSOIL makes SS 5w50, because of the breakdown of those molecules... in the 'mustang' oil, as i call it, AMSOIL talked about breaking down 2 a 30- weight oil... i do not know if they were talking about a REAL OIL or synthetic in that particular engine...
@@darrylsjodin7184 I'm happy to help. I'm well aware of the Castrol vs Mobil lawsuit and the API base oil groups. This is exactly why I made the specific comment about Full Synthetic and 100% Synthetic being marketing terms and not technical terms.
The result of the Castrol vs Mobil lawsuit allows for the Group III base oils to be marketed as synthetic, but it did not define terms such as Full Synthetic or 100% Synthetic - these are marketing terms. For example, Mobil 1 products are marketed as Full Synthetic, and some of them are Group III, some are Group III and Group IV blends, and they also have Group IV and Group V blends.
The point I'm trying to make is that the industry governing bodies (API and others) do not define these terms. They are terms used by marketers. I hate oil marketing. I love the technical aspects of oil and how it relates to engine performance (the actual important thing).
In regards to the oil shearing down to a 20 grade from a 30 grade, we see that all the time in the used oil samples we analyze each day. Typically the wider the split between the number before the "W" to the number after the "W" the more likely it is to shear down. For example, I've never seen a 10W-60 used oil sample that was still a 60 grade.
I'll do some videos on each of these topics - shear stability and base oil marketing terms.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you for the info!! 😄
I know guys with well over 300,000 miles using conventional oil. My neighbor had 850,000 miles on his 07 Honda Ridgeline. Got his oil changed at the dealer when his OLM came on. He told me $29.95 with his coupon for oil and filter change. They weren’t using full synthetic for that price and it wasn’t Mobil One.
Engines don't read labels or listen to the marketing guys. That's what great about used oil analysis - it cuts through all the BS and you can see what your engine is telling you.
Walmart Super Tech is as good a quality oil as any other. Full synthetic about $16.00 for five quart jug. Same numbers and letters as the big boy companies. Walmart oil is blended by Warren oil company.
@@arthursmith643 I'm fully aware of how private label products like the Walmart Super Tech oils are made. I've worked with two of the largest additive package suppliers in the world, so I understand how the API and OEM certifications work as well as how oils are made. You are right, if an oil has the API donut, it is a licensed formula. All licensed formulas meet the API quality requirements, which have increased over the years (for passenger car vehicles - racing and high performance excluded).
@@themotoroilgeek check out a video called Saab Talk conventional oil vs synthetic oil a lab owner sets us straight.
Thank you. I drive a car with a small GDI turbo engine. I run about 3000 city miles in 6 months using mobil 1 5w30. Should I change oil at six months despite the low miles ? Appreciate your expert opinion.
Great question! GDI engines create soot, so you should be changing your oil more often, especially with short trip city driving. A former engineer at GM named Shirley Swartz had the nickname "Sister Sludge." She said she could kill any oil in less than 3,000 miles. All she had to do was put it in her grandmother's car, who only drove half a mile to church every day. All the cold start driving would destroy the oil, so keep that in mind. Of course the best way to know how often to change your oil is by using the trend analysis provided by regular used oil sampling. That is the correct way to determine the proper drain interval for where and how you drive.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you so much for your valuable time. Unfortunately i live in Sri Lanka where we dont have oil testing facilities for consumers. So i guess i will stick to 6 month oil changes to avoid sis sludge. 😄
I do remember the group named sister sledge.
@@sunilayya8948 LOL, I remember that band as well. Good idea on the 6 month change interval.
@@themotoroilgeek yrs ago my dad & i changed my mothers oil in her '63 & after an accident, her '69 both were corvairs twice every year... only put on about 3/5k per year...
What is best Motor Oil to buy at Walmart in your Expert opinion? I always buy Mobil 1 Extended Performance... ? Do you think Penzoil Platinum is better??
The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is probably equivalent to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
Ester base oil is from Group No.5.
That is correct. All base stocks not defined by API Groups I, II, III or IV are categorized as Group V.
Could you do a video on valvoline vr1 and explained the difference between multi viscosity and strait weight for short change oil change intervals for race cars.
Will do!
Yes would like to get info on this one
We will add that one to the list!
And also the difference between the silver bottle in the black bottle VR1
@@danfecke we can look into that.
Why would anyone need a 50W oil in a gas engine? Air cooled Volkswagen maybe...
The air cooled VW and Porsche engines certainly need a 15W-50 or 20W-50 viscosity oil, but there are a lot of modified engines with looser bearing clearances that also require 15W-50 or 20W-50 oil. Boosted engines running E85 also need thicker oil due to the extra fuel and cylinder pressure, but modern, naturally aspirated engines certainly do not need oil that thick.
Exactly. It’s what I run in my 1995 993 3.6L (this series is the last of the air-cooled Porsches): Mobil One 15W-50…
Clearances Rick, air cooled Harley engines. Even 60 and 70 weight.
Yes, I'm a Engineer.
@@themotoroilgeek in general many classic cars with ft cam’d motors from the 50’s thru late 70’s early 80’s tun better with heavier visc oil ( with increased zddp lvl’s) like for example 15w-40,15w-50 or 20w-50 depending on engine wear/miles & clearances if it’s a fresh/rebuilt motor.
@@scottwheaton9689 Agreed, the older, flat tappet engines do need increased levels of ZDDP. The higher viscosity is good if the clearances are looser. The 15W-40 viscosity is very versatile for many older engines.
Hello, can I ask if there is any issue with using this oil in a motorcycle?
I'm somewhat of a lubrication specialist myself..
LOL
If every car you maintained was a Toyota/Lexus 2009 or older, should you look for oils that are not “P” rated? All the caps say “SL”? 1998 Lexus LS 400, 2002 4Runner, 2005 LS430, 2007 GX470, 2009 IS350, etc.