Thanks again for all the comments, likes and for watching. It's amazing to see how many people are truly interested in my favorite topic - Tribology! For more on the new ring coating, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/LQa9_sTQ3CY/видео.html
NEO OIL have you ever done any testing on there products? years ago in my race car [off road] I would beat to the copper the upper side? of the rod bearings in 600 miles running at 8,000 rpm on conventional oil, I tried different compounds etc. the engineer I worked with at Nissan suggested mobile one it got better. Don't recall who introduced me to Paul Baker Sr, Neo oils/Baker bearing, Paul said he would blend me oil after a couple test runs the wear problem was completely gone we then did trans and rear end and as long as we kept the temps down back then around 300 degrees every thing lived. Now watching your videos I realize the importance in competitive motorsports that blending you own oil could be very beneficial being able to address specific wear patterns for an application. Drag Racing "methanol" in one pass your oil looks like a milkshake how damaged is it? how does the methanol effect the integrity of the oil? or does it? have you ever addressed this issue? Just a couple of curious thoughts.
I will be blunt. You talked too much. You ought to be straight to the point. Your video although is informative, but they are too long and too boring. Best of luck.
4:30 So your results of testing "20W-50 vs 5W-20: Which Oil Protects Better?" are invalid as I mentioned in comments under that video. You did not double flush. That caused cross-contamination of oils.
Don't drag God into the mundane and crass. God is our creator and after mankind's rebellion, He made reconciliation possible through His only begotten Son, Jesus, who willingly shed His blood, taking in God's just wrath to cleans us of our sins, taking away our guilt, reconciling us to God who is then our heavenly Father. That is those that believe and trust Him. I know "doing God's work" is a saying that's been around and has come to be used outside its original intent, and no harm was intended. But what God has done is so meaningful, and so necessary, that we should not obscure that or dumb it down by misusing language and being careless when it comes to God.
@chris2790 Stop dragging religion further into science. This is Oil Geek Science not Bible Study. Both are not compatible and comparable or interchangeable and relatable.
I have used Supertech full synthetic on my 2011, 2015, 2018, 2020, and now on my 2024 Mustang GT. I change the oil every 4000 miles along with an original Ford FL-500-S oil filter. I have never had any problems on any of my cars. Did I mention I do all my own oil changes and I'll be 81 years old in September. Bottom line you can't beat Supertech full synthetic. The secret to this whole scenario is to change your oil on a regular basis.
Interesting, did that help with the typewriter noise at idle on your 24 GT mustang?, mine started to do it around 1k to 1.3k miles, also thanks for the info ill prob check that oil next
@@eduardohernandez2046 The only GT that developed the tick was my first one the 2011GT. As a side note I only use the 10,000 mile full synthetic Super Tech oil. I usually turn my cars over about every three years. This way everything is brand new and things are not wearing out as I don't put hundreds of thousands of miles on her.
I'm in my 60's and never worried about getting too specific about oils other than it meeting the equipment manufacturers specifications. I always took care of fleets of trucks and equipment, and my biggest battles were getting the operators to check the oil, getting the oil changes done on time, and getting the rest of the truck or equipment lubed for real, meaning that if a lube point didn't take grease, you have to do something to fix it and make it take grease. I've seen far more equipment destroyed over some piddly little oil leak, of mechanics skipping zerk fittings, than I've ever seen from motor oil choices. I don't care what great wonderful fantastic oil or grease you use, it isn't worth a damn if it's not where it's needed. Don't get me wrong, I love your videos. I just think way too many mechanics especially younger ones get lost in the details when the first battle is to keep it wet and slippery with something
That's the basis for most of my work. I work on dirt bikes and 80% is greasing things that didn't get greased when they should have and replacing the damaged bearings from being run dry. Its all so preventable with a little well documented servicing just as the manufacturers recommended
This falls in line with what I have heard and read from engine designers, engineers and manufacturers. In most engines and equipment, its no so much the brand assuming it meets the design spec, but the interval. You're better off changing your oil every 3k miles with the cheapest oil, than every 10 with the 'best'. In most cases you are throwing money away changing often with expensive oil. My own anecdotal evidence of a dozen vehicles I take care of over 20 years, just chang your oil on time with anything that meets the spec, and seeing 250k miles of engine still running great, not smoking, good fuel economy, before the salt on the roads east the chassis away.
Been running ST High Mileage for probably over 100k miles in my V10 Excursion that has about 260k miles. 5k mile oil changes and Wix filters, and still kickin.
Have you sent it out for oil analysis? Ford 2v engines have phenomenal oil life (one theory is because the block has so much surface area to wick heat and the heads are so spread apart the oil doesn't cook in these engines.) I maintained a fleet of Town Cars (all in all, well over 50) and we sold them at over 300k (besides ones that crashed and totaled) and did 10k intervals (usually 12k before I got to them, also they did a lot of idling) and the oil analysis always tested great. Even at 7500 would have saved you $200+. We also ran "wix" filters.... (Their commercial line, don't remember the name currently)
My 2006 Chevy with 269k miles on it has always run on various normal diesel oils - whatever was laying around. A few oil changes may have been skipped. I'm the second owner, and I continue to run diesel oil in it.
97 Toyota Tacoma with 354,679 miles... Used Super Tech Synthetic Oil from 60,000 miles when factory warranty ran out... Still Runs Great 👍 and has Never had any breakdown... Yet 😅
That happened to my 2011 pilot. That oil runs a lot more freely than conventional so I had to switch back to conventional while I get to change my oil gaskets
@70wildgoose higher detergent content and uniform molecule size can lead to that on higher mileage engines. After 75k I switch over to a high mileage oil to swell the seals and limit leaks.
Glad to see this test with the super tech, I have been using the ST full synthetic in my 95 Silverado since it had 50k miles. It now has 258k and runs great.
@@magichatake during the summer I pull a trailer with commercial size lawnmowers. I change oil and filter around 6000 miles, during the winter while not pulling anything I have gone as many as 7000. I also use the Super Tech full synthetic in my wife's 2013 Hyundai that she drives back and forth to work, it now has around 138000 miles. But in her traverse I use Pennzoil ultra full synthetic
I am not a chemist and I don’t build motors, but I am an owner of automobiles. I find the information in Lake’s videos very interesting and helpful (at least the parts I can understand). Quite frankly, the chemistry information is mostly over my head, but as I watch more videos, it is starting to come together. Thank you for the videos!
A lot of people don't realize how fantastic Supertech Oil is. It performs superb. And for the majority of people out there that now drive these higher maintenance GDI cars with shorter oil changes intervals, the cheaper price of Supertech alone makes it a no brainer.
@@davidcarp5935 Gas Direct Injection. Nearly every modern car now days have gone to this design. Awesome on power and fuel efficiency, but....the down side is that this design causes carbon build up on the valve train and even sludging. These engines require additional maintenance and much shorter oil change intervals, along with running higher quality fuel. These engine also need to be driven "spiritedly" every so often to clear any potential build up. The problem is, the vast majority of the general public doesn't know jack about their vehicle maintenance or this type engine design, and just putt their cars around never going above 40mph. So what does everyone get? Vehicle problems.
Didn't a manufacturer add extra injectors to help clean the valves? I thought I heard something a while ago about "in the future expect 2 injectors per cylinder". I can't remember the engine but I thought this was done to help clean intake valves.
I’ve been using super tech synthetic blend for many years. My 04 suburban had 350,000 miles on it and didn’t burn a drop of oil! I would probably still be driving it if I hadn’t wrecked it and had to retire it. Love your videos!
Who would've thought a channel based solely on engine oil would become one of my favorites. Great content fellas. I love to watch myths as old as the internal combustion engine fall one by one.
I've used the full synthetic 5W30 Chevron Pro DS sold at Walmart in 6 Quart container, a great value for full synthetic. Thanks for another great video.
Been using ST synthetic for many years and many miles, save many dollars. Change the oil and use a quality filter at 5000 miles and the engine will last longer than the car itself. Why spend crazy money on the high dollar oil when there is minimal gain. I think some people just want to say I use brand x or brand y to help with their ego. Thanks for taking the time to teach the world this valuable information.
@@themotoroilgeek can you please do tribotex additive if you havent already? Its a snake oil product that stays around and i swear i have people claiming it actually works
You are correct. Despite that, I still use PUP on my hemi even though it may only offer 1-3% better protection. For $10 more per change, I'm reducing the chance of lifter/cam failure that the hemi is known for. It's a $5000 repair vs extra $10 per oil change. I drive my truck hard and it tows quite frequently.
Yes I have something I need to ask you and if you can test this product because I've been using this in my vehicle and as well as my spouse it's made by motorkote I ordered off Amazon you probably would need to get the gallon size where I get the 32 oz size that typically lasts me if you all changes but I would like to ask you is why don't I ever see you shaking up your bottles before you pour out oil I thought you were the one that talked about additives sitting on the bottom of the bottle yet I never see you shake up the bottle come out with the truth I never see you do that why don't you do that on all your recordings?
Exactly. Geek cannot say it, but Walmart synthetic is not just better value, it is arguably better than Named brand non synthetic. What was not tested here was Named brand synthetic oil, vs Walmart.
@IronMan-ml5yi 4K - 5K miles or every 3 - 4 months. I use only S.T. synthetic oil. My car got older, and the oil got dirty faster. I just changed it. If you smell gasoline in oil, you must change around 3k.
@@tripledelight8104 200K on 2009 Suburban, 165K 2007 Impala, 120K 1018 Impala. Use exclusively synthetic ST oil. I change all these vehicles between 5k-7K miles NEVER smell gas in the oil, never. Your statement is not fact.
@member57 Different cars have different problems, you just don't know it. Gas mixed engine oil is a common problem, especially when it gets old, a faulty piston rings can also cause this problem, it can cause more fuel to run through the combustion chamber and into the oil pan. Engine misfires occur when the air-fuel mixture is not ignited correctly. This will cause the gasoline not completely burned and gasoline wash the cylinder walls, too many problems to list here. Google is your friend.
You are a great communicator. As a man married to a teacher I have been around educators for 50 yrs. I think you would make a one in a million shop teacher. You should start a mechanics school and give young people the opportunity to learn from the best. My wife and I sleep well knowing we have helped. Your work on this channel shows you have what it takes to make a difference .
Your videos are always so informative. I do oil analysis everyday at work on heavy equipment. I actually look at the results for all the different compartments in the machines. I learn a lot from you.
First race engine I ran had a flat tappet with 140 pounds on the seat and 350 pounds over the nose back in 2000. Broke it in on the dyno with Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic and the cam lasted 6 years. Only changed for a new rev box rule. Currently have an engine in its 8th year on the track that won a feature in its 7th. That was broken in with QS Dexos approved 5w30. All my flat tappets get full synthetic for break in . Havent lost a lobe in 24 years.
Wow. Every time I watch this channel they are stating "facts" that always have contradictory evidence. There are a ton of full syn breaking oils. The additive pack is the key, not the base oil. His 0w-7 oil test video has proof he is wrong right on the screen but he misinterpreted the numbers right in front of him. My 07 ram 2500 hemi has 376k always has mobile 1 10w-30 with 2 qt of Lucas syn oil stabilizer since day 1. I just did valve cover gaskets not a drop of sludge, looks brand new in there. It towes everyday at least 10k lbs. It does not have MDS or I would use 5w-20. But I do my oils changes at 5k, no more. I bet I still have 350k left in the stock hemi.
QS is highest rated PSI in the 540 RAT blog. It's what I'm using in my 3.6 Pentastar in my Jeep. With the cam issues I'm hoping it will work out as it's relatively cheap too.
Glad to see Supertech validated by another source. By my understanding the more uniform hydrocarbons of a modern synthetic base are why they are usually better (Pennzoil salesman from the early 00's lol) and I always put it into vehicles I care about. The heat removal characteristics are an interesting detail I wasn't aware of previously.
I'm not an expert but I think that the best way to understand it is, Is by imagining having marbles all of the same size, and rolling an object on top of it. Versus having marble of different sizes. Whilst liquid cooled engines rely on coolant to keep the engine at a certain temperature, removing some heat from the engine is still a function of oil. Which is why an air-cooled engine will run hotter using a thinner oil compared to a thicker oil. As is keeping "particles" in suspension and carrying them to the oil filter, which is why it always baffles me when people add an engine flush to engine oil that is clearly already "saturated"....
I'm glad I stumbled across this. I've been using Super tech for years and always thought it was an alright oil for a daily driver and I have been using it in my 2010 F150 for years now when a quart of basically anything not ST started hitting the 6-8 buck mark. Bought the truck with 117k and I just rolled over to 268 with zero issues. No leaks, no excessive wear issues at all. Change it every 5k.
@@alpha2gproject783 I have 5.4 2 valve. It’s slow but reliable lol. I use high mileage oil as well. 5w30 summer, 5w20 winter. No matter what oil, regular changes are key, especially if with the 3 valve! Crazy it’s either three valves that are trash and have to be replaced or three valves with tons and tons of miles on them lol
That's definitely true. Honestly I feel like the 09-10's don't have many of the same issues as the 04-08 and if memory serves me correctly that's because the later years is a considered a second generation with many updates and modifications. I had a 4.6 2 valve F150 and honestly I have to say that even with the added weight of the 09-14 body styles there is still a night and day difference. Which is weird because when I was looking for a truck I considered a 14 Coyote and Ecoboost but neither truck felt like it had much over the 5.4. I believe it has to do with where the torque is compared to those two and there's no turbos to keep up with. It's been a great truck and if it ever dies I'm just going to get a long block, put some forged rods in it and drive it until the frame splits in two because I hate buying new and there's nothing that a new truck offers that mine doesn't already have.@@ajmedeiros77
I will say this tho…havoline full synthetic is a great oil. Great numbers on virgin samples. And comes in 6 quart boxes as many engines require 5.5-6 quarts. And when on sale in $22! Absolutely can’t be beat.
Lake, I would like to see you do a video on synthetic oil production. How it is make, what is it made from? What is PAO, what is ester? Is it made from crude oil? I look forward to your videos as I just bought a new Tacoma (23 V6) now with 2400 miles, initial change at 1000.
@@themotoroilgeekCAN YOU PLEASE, PLEASE, PURTY PLEASE, DO MOTORCYCLE OILS. Specifically Amsoil vs. Rotella T6. The Amsoil is way more expensive, but is it way better? If it's slightly better that doesn't justify paying that much more. In other words I'm not curious if Amsoil is better than Rotella T6, I know it is. I'm curious if it's worth the extra money. You'll need to test this with a wet clutch on your test rig or an actual motorcycle. Also I'm willing to donate non contaminated used oil. I'll be very careful cleaning the oil pan AND the oil container. This is my 2nd oil change with Rotella. I bought the bike with 6800 miles and now it's at dang near 18000.
@@themotoroilgeekOne more thing... I commute 50 miles to work, so the loads applied are fairly consistent. This will somewhat mitigate 3rd variables. Obviously not as ideal as a test rig, but decently consistent.
I used Super tech oil 10w40 and Super tech filters. My truck is an 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 208,698 miles. It's only had a failed wiper motor switch and a failed water pump . The engine is Still crisp and Sounds Great. No Smoke .
I would like to see an analysis video on Havoline synthetic in a modern recommended viscosity, such as up to 5w30 and how well it may stack up when used in a direct-injection, or DI w/turbo. I can't find a PQIA on a modern Havoline sample. As always, a great video for the lubricant fanatics of the world.
I switched from mineral to synthetic oil in my Land Rover 90 and I noticed it was running just a tick or two cooler. Not much and in fact, I I though it was just me, but it is nice to know I can get that hot running motor a little relief, especially in this gulf coast heat.
@@thestigisme2349 I use straight water and the wetter here in the northeast. The ol vr6 likes it and when it's like 65 ambient out it'll struggle to hit 195 on the coolant temp and usually gives around the 180 range. Scangage is nice for that stuff, as these vws have a lying gauge on the dash. It'll read 190 anywhere from an actual 165-200. Literally if you see it running 1 needle width above 190, it's probably close to 210-215.
@@MrTheHillfolkI love having a digital read out of the exact temp too rather than going by my gauge which also barely moves. I use the UltraGuage 2 though and love it. It’s small and can fit upto 8 gauges on one screen and gives check engine codes in real time. It’s amazing and was cheap too.
I drive a 97 2500 chevy 5.7. Learned about friction modifiers in the 80s looking for oil for my motorcycles. Back then I knew Honda didn't make oil but recommended "Honda" oil at $9.00 a quart. Diesel oil doesn't have friction reducers that wet clutch plates don't like. Been using diesel oil since. My truck has enjoyed diesel synthetic ever since I got it with 200k on it and has 320k now. I know there are down sides to diesel oil but I'm good. I survived covid on my own without a mask and my truck runs great.
Thanks for yet another interesting video. After watching your videos I shifted from conventional to full synthetic oil in my ‘98 Tahoe. Conventional took me from new to 330K miles with no engine work and still no oil additions between the 5K mile oil changes and I have the feeling that for typical northern US drivers oil/filter change interval is FAR more important than oil type.
You can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec. A cheap petroleum oil will give you no better oil analysis then the most expensive 100% synthetic.
I would love to see a list of common cars and trucks and the oil you would use for each vehicle. I speak for many watching, we would love the advice. Thanks
Again thank you sir for making these videos sir. They have helped me explain oil to my family who all have better cars then myself but knew nothing about oil in the slightest. You deserve an award sir
My opinion is the viscosity and filtration are the two most important things to get right for longevity. Viscosity keeps things apart and filtration keeps things from getting in the oil film and damaging the engine components. We had limousines with bypass filtration that kept the oil clean as new and the engines just never wore out.
While not motor oil...could you do a video/series on other related fluids and how they relate/don't relate. Fluids such as auto transmission fluids, gear oils, and possibly even hydraulic oils.
Non-synthetic I bought new a 1994 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 1500with a 5.7. My engine shop Chief worked p/t evenings at WalMart. I used Walmart 10/30 for 268,000 miles and changed it every 3,000 along with filter. 14 1/2 yrs later I sold it to my neighbor who INSISTED on her having it. It used 1/2 qt between changes. Truck never let me down. I bought another same GMC with a 5.3 engine for another 14 1/2 yrs with same results. This time I used the oil quick chg place at the dealer.
The Supertech stuff I believe is manufactured by Warren Oil. They also manufacture the Costco Kirkland oils, which I just recently adopted into my maintenance schedules in my brand new '24 Toyota Tacoma. This is my first usage of this manufacturer's oils, and thus far I'm happy. Good oil at a reasonable price!
I deep dived it years ago. it used to be 3 different companies but it depended where your geographic location as to who you got oil from. in south east it was ExxonMobil in south central it was Warren. now I think it is made by a company called Delphin and all they make is non branded oil. If you really want to know go to Walmart sds and it will say where your oil is from.
Yes all 3 are the same oil per testing on RUclips. Get which ever is cheapest. I found Kirkland to be cheaper but they don’t always have high mileage oil in stock
I've been using Kirkland oil for years on 4 different vehicles with no issues as well. Good oil, that's cheaper and gets changed more often. The best oil is clean oil.
Rural king store uses the same oil as Walmart as well. 5 quart jug full synthetic $20 and a OE filter. Been using it for years not a problem one. Change every 5k.
Castrol GTX best conventional oil by far!.. Tested it for yrs in various engines, nothing beats it for holding viscosity and stability. Stays good looking for a very long time.
I beg to differ. I bought a brand new 1984 Oldsmobile Toronado. Owned it for its entire life and after an accident decided to rebuild the engine at 140k. I ran castrol GTX exclusively and always changed the oil every 3k miles. Well long story short…the engine was just full of sludge. This was 1983-2001 time period.
I preferred conventional Valvoline 10W-30 over the rest of them and have been running their Max life synthetic blend 10W-30 since it came out.. I found it stays cleaner longer as well as it's viscosity holds up longer.
@@Turbogto_guyYou can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec that engine is rated for. You can run a cheap petroleum, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or the best 100% synthetic you can find and the difference in your oil analysis will be minimal.
@@donniejenkins7909 Look in the manual. If the oil meets OR EXCEEDS those API specs you’re good. The synthetic absolutely should be a higher spec than the blend and should at least meet but look in the manual and look on the bottle. Do a little googling of API specs to be sure. No guessing.
I am a snowmobiler, and there's so much snake oil around two-stroke oils for snowmobiles. Especially OEM oils vs. aftermarket. Would love to see a shootout of various OEM 2 stroke oils (especially the $60 a gallon Ski-Doo full synthetic) vs. Aftermarket oils.
I run lucas in my chainsaws and two stroke dirt bikes. Mostly because thats what available at the the local O’riellys. Never had any trouble with it even ragging out those dirt bikes on hill climbing and lots of high rpm wide open riding. Granted I don’t ride as hard as I used to but still I don’t baby durt bikes either.
@robertbrewer2179 Lucas makes a low ash synthetic snowmobile oil that i have used but it can be hard to find at most local stores in my area (IL, WI, and U.P. of MI) Modern 2 stroke snowmobiles and watercraft need a low ash 2 stroke formulation. Many of the 2 stroke oils available at discount and hardware stores contain no ash and our design for marine applications. Definitely not what I want to use in a snowmobile. Would be interested in shootout with OEM oils vs. Aftermarket oils designed for Sleds
As an old automotive technician I think the variable hardness of the experimental rings is a an answer to a problem that doesn’t exist at least in stock applications. My specialty for almost 30 years has been engine repair and rebuilding. I’m either competent or just extremely lucky in that I’ve never had a comeback due to oil consumption. If you use the right rings for the application, check your clearances during the rebuild and break the engine in accordingly oil consumption is almost nonexistent. The #1 cause I’ve seen of oil consumption is not wear or a lack of rings seating correctly but it’s HARD carbon deposits literally cementing the rings to the piston. I can name numerous Asian and domestic engines that are plagued by this even with sufficient oil changes by the owner. If Valvoline R&P proves to have the ability to soften and remove the carbon they will have a winner oil . I’m somewhat skeptical at this point. I rebuilt a K24A last week that the carbon deposits in the oil ring land drains were so hard that I had to drill them out with a sharp drill bit. The oil essentially had no way to drain from the bores and was getting consumed by the engine. That engine had every high end flush that you could name to try to soften and remove the deposits but it made no difference at all other than lighten the owner’s wallet. These are just my experience and my opinions based on what I have seen.
You're reminding me again of that 390 Ford I had back in the 70s with the stuck rings. Darn, if I knew then what I had learned later, I would have done everything I have ever heard of to get the carbon out. I eventually did do a backyard ring job. Part of what I learned though came from tearing down that engine. The cast iron V-8s of that era had a terrible reputation for wearing out early. The actual problem, especially with the small block Chevys, was lack of maintenance. Part of it though is that it was hard to get an oil change back then sometimes and if you changed your own oil, there was no regular place to recycle the drain oil either. A friend of mine who was a gearhead and street rodder back then said his friends who had small black Chevys changed the oil every 2000 miles. With the amount of mineral residues in the gas and the blowby those engines had, probably a good idea to change the oil that early. Another issue was clogged cooling systems. The coolant they had back then was not long life and the cast iron engines produced large amounts of scale in the cooling system. Ignore maintenance and the engines turned into oil burning, overheating messes in not too long. Another bonus was the rear seal going bad. That was another consequence of poor maintenance.
I have rebuilt a couple gas engines at 300K miles, and the oil control rings, oil distribution holes as well as the gap behind the compression rings was completely filled with light brown ash deposits. I have recently disassembled a 0.67L 3 cyl 1800rpm diesel engines, and found both broken rings and carboned up stuck rings. But i have not seen this, in a handful of 1.9L VW tdi engines. The oil control and compression rings are not carboned up even with poor maintenance at 250K miles.
@@aliendroneservices6621 Depends on the specific product and country. Supertech proved to be good plenty of times :) Here in Europe I love the Mannol PD 5w40
Thank you Lake for taking your time to explain the science of lubricants. Privateers need to know as much as possible if they are competing against professional teams, to know where to find HP vs durability, because you know that the pros have engineers for all aspects of the vehicle. This information is equally useful for all car enthusiasts or regular motorists, now we can make more informed choices, without having to rely on tribal or slick sales commercials. Looking forward to the next upload.
Walmart is really hard to beat on oil prices, but they really shine for car batteries. They are all made my johnson controls these days with different labels and walmarts are the "freshest" around, typically not even 2 months old. Auto parts stores have batteries sit around on the shelf for 6-8 months. I've even had them give me no grief swaps under warranty w/o receipt too....
Johnson Controls sold its battery division in 2019 to Brookfield Business Partners, the company is now called Clarios. I've had good luck with East Penn made batteries, 16 yr. old Deka in my tractor, and 11 yr. old Car Quest in my Tacoma.
My mechanic had a number of his customers with Subaru's, having oil consumption issues. He switched them to conventional oil, 3000 mile changes. The consumption issues stopped.
I have a 2018 Subaru Outback that uses oil. It is the 0w20 synthetic. What conventional oil did your mechanic switch to? I don’t recall seeing 0w20 conventional oil
@@RedboneTool You can't get MINERAL 0W20 engine oil. From memory all OW oils are full synthetic base (man made, not from any crude whatsoever) If I was in your position I would look at what oil viscosities the manufacturer recommends, and if a thicker is allowed (5W30 etc) I would go down that path. As well as jumping onto a Subaru forum in your country, and see what other people are doing.
@@notsureyouI assume you mean you can’t get conventional 0w-20. Def good to see what you can use from the manufacturer and what tolerances they allow for There is no more solid advise than talking to the guys on the forums with you particular model car. They know. I’m a member or civic and accord forums as well as rav4world. 😁
When my 350 smallblock (flat tappet) was losing a gallon of oil every 1000 miles I used the Supertech Synthetic, which at the time was $25 for a 3 gallon box. Since the rebuild I have been using VR1 Synthetic 10W30 on a 5,000 mile change interval. I run that 5,000 miles in less than 100 engine hours since I drive 90% interstate. The results show those were both excellent decisions
I'm in southern Calif and I can't even imagine going that many miles on the highway, you can't go more than 10 miles without hitting traffic unless you drive at 3 AM... you must spend most of your waking hours behind the wheel. How did you get time to write that comment?
So you rebuilt the enging and then used vr1? Btw VR1 has no detergents for cleaning. Id say if the rebuild happened it wasnt supertech oil causing the oil loss. It was an old worn out engine.
Thank you very much , what I learned about this very well done study is I am not so much worried about gaining or losing a few horse power but more concerned about ware and heat thus the need for synthetics.
I have been running super tech for years. Thanks to your videos i have changed from a 5w20 to a 10w30 in my jeep. At least for the summer here in AZ. In October i will go to the 5w30.
@@MrTopHat4 you can run w40. Try to find a 5w40. I run 5w40 on my 3.8L Caravan because as you know, these motors can consume oil. I also connected the PCV to a catch can and its vent to atmosphere from there. I plugged the port on the intake manifold. I was finding that my 3.8 was consuming a lot of oil through the PCV, even when I replaced the valve with a new mopar one. I live in Socal, so it is hot here as well. w40 is cheap protection running a motor in this heat, no oil sheer when it gets hotter than hot.
Very cool engineering on the variable ring material. The choice of off the shelf Havoline and Supertech comparison was a surprise, but quite revealing on the test results.
Lake, At 73 I have learned more about oil in an hour of watching your vids than I have learned in my entire life! After picking up my jaw off the floor, all I can say is, THANK YOU! I subscribed.
VERY interesting as always Lake! Does the FTIR testing illustrate "film strength". That's one issue you haven't mentioned so far and one that's not mentioned in UOA test results. Blogger 540 RAT and Project Farm do mechanical film strength testing with wear scar results, and there are noticeable differences among oil brands. Also, you have yet to mention differences between "synthetic" hydrocracked mineral oil (Group III), and true synthetics like PAOs and esters (Groups IV and V). Lastly, in reference to Super Tech, you said the additive package "requested by Walmart". Super Tech is API SP and ILSAC GF-6 like almost every other oil on the shelf, meaning it meets current industry standards. Keep it coming Lake!
I actually use Havoline 10w30 conventional in a older vehicle.😅 I remember the commercials add more life to your car. It would be interesting to see how well the Havoline synthetic oils hold up to the bigger Name brands.
Havoline in conventional form was quite good back in the mid-late 80s. I used the 10-30 and straight 30 on different vehicles at that time with success. The Havoline commercial at the time claimed that their oils were 'state trooper tested...'
I've got a 2003 Nissan Frontier 6 cylinder with well over 300000 on the clock and still going strong. All I've done is change the oil every 5000 miles with the WalMart SuperTech synthetic. The valve seats are tired, but compression is still high and there is no bottom end rattle whatsoever.
I use Supertech exclusively. I started using it many years ago because it met the same standards as all the other name brand oils at about 1/2 the price. Two vehicles, change oil every 4000-5000 miles, 40,000 miles a year driven. Saved about $15 a change. That's thousands of dollars over the last 25 years.
These types of videos are great 👍 I usually buy Mobil1 from Walmart. For my RAV4 it’s either ordering the Toyota branded oil at a relatively high price or get the 5-quart Mobil1 jugs at Walmart. It’s usually around $25. When there is a “rollback” sale, and it’s even cheaper, I buy a few jugs and store it in the garage. I put on a lot of miles on the car and change the oil every 3000 miles. So, the cost factor is important…
@@OtisFlintAbsolutely false statement. See project Farm. This oil performs as well as any full synthetic, with only two or three brands being marginally better, with one of the two Costing 3x as much.
Working with Dodge on the Hellcat hayday I had free access to penzoil products so for years that's all any vehicles in my extended family ever ran. 7500km oil changes and never an issue. Once I changed jobs and lost that little perk and realized a gallon of penzoil ultra is like $60 in Canada I switched everything to ST because a 5l jug is 24 bucks. Glad to hear everything is just fine with this brand.
I see Lake talking about racing oils vs conventional in this video, sounds like the setup to the potential next video of Boutique oils. AKA the Amsoil, Redline, Ravenol and HPL episode.
@@themotoroilgeek yeah you now have me curious what oil I should be running in my race car that i pretty much daily as well. I put about 20k miles a year on the car and LS dart block setup with almost 1,400 whp. I currently run 20w50 vr1 right now and change the oil every 1,500 miles or after a full weekend of racing.
2001 Toyota Tacoma with the V6 5Vz FE, 356,000 miles. Been using Supertech almost forever it seems. Best vehicle I've ever owned. Pulls the boat, daily driver & money maker!
I know this is off topic but can you do a video on hybrid specific oils like the Valvoline and mobile 1 oils that was designed with hybrids in mind? There is very little information on them (besides the company description). I wanted to see if it’s just marketing or do they actually benefit hybrid engines.
it's nice to see this is still true. Every car I've had or have known about that's had problems with engine wear is either someone not doing maintenance or because of a design issue with the car. As long as the oil meets spec, and probably even that has leeway, I've never seen early failure in any car engine because a spec oil wasn't as good as another on spec oil. I've owned a scion XB in the past (oil burner from the factory) and a hyundai (started fast oil consumption at 80k miles with no warning and no indicator). the scion was 16 years old when I got rid of it, though, it just consumed about a quart per 1000 miles depending on what you were doing driving and you had to pay attention to the level. A month after the hyundai, which wasn't a 4 cylinder, but same issue - sudden oil consumption despite synthetic oil every 5k and always oil in spec - a month after It started consuming oil, a trucker hit us on the interstate in the snow and that solved that problem.
Big Fan of ST Full Synthetic and hope WM & current producer neither try to cut cost or just switch up to another processor. Run it in a 2AZ-FE that is THIRSTY!
It would be very informative if you could run a wear test on 2-stroke mineral vs. synthetic outboard oil and find if there is any truth to being able to run a higher ratio mix and thus lowering emissions. Regards !
Great idea, I run a lot of two-stroke lawn equipment and this has been something on my mind for years. Recently, a buddy gave me a spare bottle of his Amsoil 2 stroke oil and he swears it can be mixed as little as 100:1 and protect the same as 50:1. He said he does that with all of his equipment (proffesional; lawn guy) and he hasn’t had a failure yet in the 3 years he’s been running it, I’m a little skeptical and I ran it at the recommended ratio 50:1. Lol
Many will recall the old dyno tests which suggested increased performance at higher oil concentration. It might also be interesting to include one of the formulations which includes castor, sold by Klotz and Maxima.
@@emmettmackan7900Indeed, the power kept going up until they just called it a day. 😆 Castor oil is unique, not The best lubrication under normal circumstances but it adds a bit of protection when things start to go wrong.
This helped me really understand what's going on and the reason my outboard engine manufacturer recommends the synthetic blend that they do. All the "experts" online say to run full synthetic but that would likely run really cold in an engine that already runs in the 140s. Very cool video!
I was told by a mechanic, many years ago to change the oil every 1,000 miles. I have done that for years. I generally drive a car for at least 300,000 miles before I replace it. I never have problems with the engines. In my opinion change the oil and filter every 1,000 miles if you want your engine to last.
I really want to see you run tests on the Motul 300V Competition in any of the grades, too see the wear and oil life expectancy, i run the 5w40 in a street car but it only gets run 3000 miles a year at most.
+1. Would love to see a proper test of it. I run the 0w-20 in winter and the 5w-30 in summer in my FL5 type r. Change every 4500-6000 miles. I saw UOA from someone using that oil in the same engine with 8000 miles interval (including tracking it) and the results looked good, but I prefer to play it safe.
I love these videos! You guys are geniuses! I haven’t built an engine in over 35 years. I always broke them in like I stole them! Then always changed the oil religiously. I had good results from that. I wish today’s engine and oil technology had been available.
All engine builders are going to have to raise their game or get left behind, never to catch up🤔 Exciting but worrying at the same time. Is there the customers out there looking for this level of perfection. Would be interesting to see how the Gibbs HR1 and Gp1 oils compared to the VR1. Been running HR1 in a small engine, over here in the UK, that is more like an early 70's Japanese motorcycle unit. Ie 1000cc sohc flat tappet 100hp 8k rpm. Been running the same motors for 40 years, the HR1 does seem to save money over a season. Though understanding has moved on quite a bit in 40 years even at my low level
Excellent work. Very gripping and interesting if an engine geek like me. I purchase strictly on emotion. So this information was great. 1. I've had two engines fail using Valvoline. Emotional: I NEVER use Valvoline again. 2. Emotional: Rotella with MMO, all engines go 200k, 300k+ seemingly no wearing, no consumption issues, quiet and never fail!!.Running better progressively!! 3. No lab tech, just emotional and observation RECENTLY. New discovery!!! Transport Fleet owner gave me care instructions for HIS truck I operated: Wal-Mart synthetic @ every 10,000 miles. So confused now. Thought I had this engine oil success it figured out. The Walmart full synthetic 10k mile intervals yielded 387,000 mile engine still running beautifully and level staying well within dipstick range for 10k miles!! Fascinating!.
Tough to beat Walmart on oil prices. I've used the full synthetic version of that 6 qt box of Havoline and it used to be a Walmart exclusive only available through online order. I also used the Supertech 5W30 (Warren Distribution) full synthetic Dexos approved oil in this current change. I'll buy whatever Walmart's cheapest full-synthetic is when I change the oil, and lately it's always ST.
@@dskwared2u610 What do I need to look at to determine if Warren sourced Supertech? Only 1 shaped jug I've seen here in Indiana. Will the printed ink code on bottle let me know? Thanks
With the Money I've saved over the year's buying the cheapest supermarket fully synthetic instead of very expensive named brand's I could probably buy a Rolls Royce with the savings 😊😊.
Thanks again for all the comments, likes and for watching. It's amazing to see how many people are truly interested in my favorite topic - Tribology! For more on the new ring coating, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/LQa9_sTQ3CY/видео.html
NEO OIL have you ever done any testing on there products? years ago in my race car [off road] I would beat to the copper the upper side? of the rod bearings in 600 miles running at 8,000 rpm on conventional oil, I tried different compounds etc. the engineer I worked with at Nissan suggested mobile one it got better. Don't recall who introduced me to Paul Baker Sr, Neo oils/Baker bearing, Paul said he would blend me oil after a couple test runs the wear problem was completely gone we then did trans and rear end and as long as we kept the temps down back then around 300 degrees every thing lived. Now watching your videos I realize the importance in competitive motorsports that blending you own oil could be very beneficial being able to address specific wear patterns for an application. Drag Racing "methanol" in one pass your oil looks like a milkshake how damaged is it? how does the methanol effect the integrity of the oil? or does it? have you ever addressed this issue? Just a couple of curious thoughts.
I will be blunt. You talked too much. You ought to be straight to the point. Your video although is informative, but they are too long and too boring. Best of luck.
Great information. Wow. Details...❤
4:30 So your results of testing "20W-50 vs 5W-20: Which Oil Protects Better?" are invalid as I mentioned in comments under that video. You did not double flush. That caused cross-contamination of oils.
@@sbsb4995 .....here's your fish, don't let the door hit you on the way out.
At 54 years old I now know I should have chosen to be an oil geek for my career. Love this stuff. Thanks, Lake!
I feel the same way. I missed my true calling in life...lol.
LOL, Thanks!
Never too late as long you are still alive.
Getting paid to regurgitate marketing material does sound like a comfy gig 😅
@@D2O28 like yr thinking
People better appreciate this man , he’s doing gods work! Love what you do for all of us oil geeks 🙌
Thank you!
Don't drag God into the mundane and crass.
God is our creator and after mankind's rebellion, He made reconciliation possible through His only begotten Son, Jesus, who willingly shed His blood, taking in God's just wrath to cleans us of our sins, taking away our guilt, reconciling us to God who is then our heavenly Father. That is those that believe and trust Him.
I know "doing God's work" is a saying that's been around and has come to be used outside its original intent, and no harm was intended. But what God has done is so meaningful, and so necessary, that we should not obscure that or dumb it down by misusing language and being careless when it comes to God.
@chris2790 Stop dragging religion further into science. This is Oil Geek Science not Bible Study. Both are not compatible and comparable or interchangeable and relatable.
Project Farm did a similar test too!
@@chris2790 idiot
I have used Supertech full synthetic on my 2011, 2015, 2018, 2020, and now on my 2024 Mustang GT. I change the oil every 4000 miles along with an original Ford FL-500-S oil filter. I have never had any problems on any of my cars. Did I mention I do all my own oil changes and I'll be 81 years old in September. Bottom line you can't beat Supertech full synthetic. The secret to this whole scenario is to change your oil on a regular basis.
Yes, sir. The best oil is clean oil. And if it's less expensive, even better.
I hope I'm changing my own oil at 81. Happy early birthday.
Interesting, did that help with the typewriter noise at idle on your 24 GT mustang?, mine started to do it around 1k to 1.3k miles, also thanks for the info ill prob check that oil next
@@eduardohernandez2046 The only GT that developed the tick was my first one the 2011GT. As a side note I only use the 10,000 mile full synthetic Super Tech oil. I usually turn my cars over about every three years. This way everything is brand new and things are not wearing out as I don't put hundreds of thousands of miles on her.
It's made from the same refinery as mobile
I'm in my 60's and never worried about getting too specific about oils other than it meeting the equipment manufacturers specifications. I always took care of fleets of trucks and equipment, and my biggest battles were getting the operators to check the oil, getting the oil changes done on time, and getting the rest of the truck or equipment lubed for real, meaning that if a lube point didn't take grease, you have to do something to fix it and make it take grease.
I've seen far more equipment destroyed over some piddly little oil leak, of mechanics skipping zerk fittings, than I've ever seen from motor oil choices.
I don't care what great wonderful fantastic oil or grease you use, it isn't worth a damn if it's not where it's needed.
Don't get me wrong, I love your videos. I just think way too many mechanics especially younger ones get lost in the details when the first battle is to keep it wet and slippery with something
That's the basis for most of my work. I work on dirt bikes and 80% is greasing things that didn't get greased when they should have and replacing the damaged bearings from being run dry. Its all so preventable with a little well documented servicing just as the manufacturers recommended
Totally agree. Equipment doesn't fail if you follow that.
This falls in line with what I have heard and read from engine designers, engineers and manufacturers. In most engines and equipment, its no so much the brand assuming it meets the design spec, but the interval. You're better off changing your oil every 3k miles with the cheapest oil, than every 10 with the 'best'. In most cases you are throwing money away changing often with expensive oil.
My own anecdotal evidence of a dozen vehicles I take care of over 20 years, just chang your oil on time with anything that meets the spec, and seeing 250k miles of engine still running great, not smoking, good fuel economy, before the salt on the roads east the chassis away.
Where did the oil pressure gauge go ? All we have now is CEL & only after the damage has been done.
Ive been using SuperTech synthetic oil for years. never had an issue.
Been running ST High Mileage for probably over 100k miles in my V10 Excursion that has about 260k miles. 5k mile oil changes and Wix filters, and still kickin.
These modern oils are absolutely wonderful in these late 90s early 00s engines. Already great engines meet an even greater lubricant
Have you sent it out for oil analysis? Ford 2v engines have phenomenal oil life (one theory is because the block has so much surface area to wick heat and the heads are so spread apart the oil doesn't cook in these engines.)
I maintained a fleet of Town Cars (all in all, well over 50) and we sold them at over 300k (besides ones that crashed and totaled) and did 10k intervals (usually 12k before I got to them, also they did a lot of idling) and the oil analysis always tested great.
Even at 7500 would have saved you $200+. We also ran "wix" filters.... (Their commercial line, don't remember the name currently)
I used ST high mileage in a chevy cobalt for 280k miles it ran perfect and was clean under the valvecovers when i sold it
@@cyclesaviorn2700 Absolutely agree. I run the same stuff in my two 2003 Lexus ES300’s. 3.0L “1MZ-FE” V6.
My 2006 Chevy with 269k miles on it has always run on various normal diesel oils - whatever was laying around. A few oil changes may have been skipped. I'm the second owner, and I continue to run diesel oil in it.
97 Toyota Tacoma with 354,679 miles... Used Super Tech Synthetic Oil from 60,000 miles when factory warranty ran out... Still Runs Great 👍 and has Never had any breakdown... Yet 😅
Your Toyota will go 500k with mud for oil but I get it
This is true just because those vehicles have oil coolers. Heat breaks down and sludges up oil the oil cooler prevents that
2000 Tacoma here I switched to synthetic oil and noticed that I got oil leaking from valve covers, any body else?
That happened to my 2011 pilot. That oil runs a lot more freely than conventional so I had to switch back to conventional while I get to change my oil gaskets
@70wildgoose higher detergent content and uniform molecule size can lead to that on higher mileage engines. After 75k I switch over to a high mileage oil to swell the seals and limit leaks.
Glad to see this test with the super tech, I have been using the ST full synthetic in my 95 Silverado since it had 50k miles. It now has 258k and runs great.
please, at what's was your oil change interval on these 200k miles? every 5 or 10k miles?
@@magichatakeI've got 285k on 2000 Silverado. Avg oil change 5000 miles with cheap full synthetic.
@@chadchadchadchadchad thanks mate. 5k miles is around 8000km in Brazil and I change my oil around the same
@@magichatake during the summer I pull a trailer with commercial size lawnmowers. I change oil and filter around 6000 miles, during the winter while not pulling anything I have gone as many as 7000. I also use the Super Tech full synthetic in my wife's 2013 Hyundai that she drives back and forth to work, it now has around 138000 miles. But in her traverse I use Pennzoil ultra full synthetic
Sir in a 90’s Chevy you could run vegetable oil and it would go quarter million 😂
Can’t get enough of Lake’s truly foaming-at-the-mouth passion for motor oil.
Thanks!
I use Supertech 5W30 Full synthetic on my Chevy Cruze which is my work car. Never had any problems with int and at 180,000 miles it still runs great.
I am not a chemist and I don’t build motors, but I am an owner of automobiles. I find the information in Lake’s videos very interesting and helpful (at least the parts I can understand). Quite frankly, the chemistry information is mostly over my head, but as I watch more videos, it is starting to come together. Thank you for the videos!
Wow, thank you!
21:10
A lot of people don't realize how fantastic Supertech Oil is. It performs superb. And for the majority of people out there that now drive these higher maintenance GDI cars with shorter oil changes intervals, the cheaper price of Supertech alone makes it a no brainer.
whats GDI again? A different type of engine?
@@davidcarp5935 gas direct injection. Google for the expanded explanation. I'm off to bed!
@@davidcarp5935 Gas Direct Injection. Nearly every modern car now days have gone to this design. Awesome on power and fuel efficiency, but....the down side is that this design causes carbon build up on the valve train and even sludging. These engines require additional maintenance and much shorter oil change intervals, along with running higher quality fuel. These engine also need to be driven "spiritedly" every so often to clear any potential build up.
The problem is, the vast majority of the general public doesn't know jack about their vehicle maintenance or this type engine design, and just putt their cars around never going above 40mph. So what does everyone get? Vehicle problems.
Didn't a manufacturer add extra injectors to help clean the valves? I thought I heard something a while ago about "in the future expect 2 injectors per cylinder". I can't remember the engine but I thought this was done to help clean intake valves.
@Ryan-ds2wx this is why my pickup truck is port injection only and my sedan and is direct and port injection
I’ve been using super tech synthetic blend for many years. My 04 suburban had 350,000 miles on it and didn’t burn a drop of oil! I would probably still be driving it if I hadn’t wrecked it and had to retire it. Love your videos!
Who would've thought a channel based solely on engine oil would become one of my favorites. Great content fellas. I love to watch myths as old as the internal combustion engine fall one by one.
Thank you!
@@themotoroilgeek
no.
thank you.
I've used the full synthetic 5W30 Chevron Pro DS sold at Walmart in 6 Quart container, a great value for full synthetic. Thanks for another great video.
Been using ST synthetic for many years and many miles, save many dollars. Change the oil and use a quality filter at 5000 miles and the engine will last longer than the car itself. Why spend crazy money on the high dollar oil when there is minimal gain. I think some people just want to say I use brand x or brand y to help with their ego. Thanks for taking the time to teach the world this valuable information.
You are welcome!
@@themotoroilgeek can you please do tribotex additive if you havent already? Its a snake oil product that stays around and i swear i have people claiming it actually works
You are correct. Despite that, I still use PUP on my hemi even though it may only offer 1-3% better protection. For $10 more per change, I'm reducing the chance of lifter/cam failure that the hemi is known for. It's a $5000 repair vs extra $10 per oil change. I drive my truck hard and it tows quite frequently.
How about 6200mile oci?
Yes I have something I need to ask you and if you can test this product because I've been using this in my vehicle and as well as my spouse it's made by motorkote I ordered off Amazon you probably would need to get the gallon size where I get the 32 oz size that typically lasts me if you all changes but I would like to ask you is why don't I ever see you shaking up your bottles before you pour out oil I thought you were the one that talked about additives sitting on the bottom of the bottle yet I never see you shake up the bottle come out with the truth I never see you do that why don't you do that on all your recordings?
I'm using super tech for the last 15 years, and my car has 275K now.
Exactly. Geek cannot say it, but Walmart synthetic is not just better value, it is arguably better than Named brand non synthetic. What was not tested here was Named brand synthetic oil, vs Walmart.
What are your oil change intervals?
@IronMan-ml5yi 4K - 5K miles or every 3 - 4 months. I use only S.T. synthetic oil.
My car got older, and the oil got dirty faster. I just changed it.
If you smell gasoline in oil, you must change around 3k.
@@tripledelight8104 200K on 2009 Suburban, 165K 2007 Impala, 120K 1018 Impala. Use exclusively synthetic ST oil. I change all these vehicles between 5k-7K miles NEVER smell gas in the oil, never. Your statement is not fact.
@member57 Different cars have different problems, you just don't know it.
Gas mixed engine oil is a common problem, especially when it gets old, a faulty piston rings can also cause this problem, it can cause more fuel to run through the combustion chamber and into the oil pan. Engine misfires occur when the air-fuel mixture is not ignited correctly. This will cause the gasoline not completely burned and gasoline wash the cylinder walls, too many problems to list here.
Google is your friend.
You are a great communicator. As a man married to a teacher I have been around educators for 50 yrs. I think you would make a one in a million shop teacher. You should start a mechanics school and give young people the opportunity to learn from the best.
My wife and I sleep well knowing we have helped.
Your work on this channel shows you have what it takes to make a difference .
Wow! Thank you so much!!!
Your videos are always so informative. I do oil analysis everyday at work on heavy equipment. I actually look at the results for all the different compartments in the machines. I learn a lot from you.
Thank you so much!
First race engine I ran had a flat tappet with 140 pounds on the seat and 350 pounds over the nose back in 2000. Broke it in on the dyno with Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic and the cam lasted 6 years. Only changed for a new rev box rule. Currently have an engine in its 8th year on the track that won a feature in its 7th. That was broken in with QS Dexos approved 5w30. All my flat tappets get full synthetic for break in . Havent lost a lobe in 24 years.
All my tappets are flat, but I’m fat, so there’s over 250 pounds in the seat. 😂
Wow. Every time I watch this channel they are stating "facts" that always have contradictory evidence. There are a ton of full syn breaking oils. The additive pack is the key, not the base oil. His 0w-7 oil test video has proof he is wrong right on the screen but he misinterpreted the numbers right in front of him. My 07 ram 2500 hemi has 376k always has mobile 1 10w-30 with 2 qt of Lucas syn oil stabilizer since day 1. I just did valve cover gaskets not a drop of sludge, looks brand new in there. It towes everyday at least 10k lbs. It does not have MDS or I would use 5w-20. But I do my oils changes at 5k, no more. I bet I still have 350k left in the stock hemi.
QS is highest rated PSI in the 540 RAT blog. It's what I'm using in my 3.6 Pentastar in my Jeep. With the cam issues I'm hoping it will work out as it's relatively cheap too.
Timestamp 4:30 “double flush” that sounds like a phrase used when depleting your colon that’s been backed up for several days.
I call it a mid-drop flush, as in pinch that loaf.
LOL
Colonoscopy prep?
You always do a double flush after eating Mexican 😂
@@kirkkohnen5050 That's more like 2 days of a flushing🔥
Glad to see Supertech validated by another source. By my understanding the more uniform hydrocarbons of a modern synthetic base are why they are usually better (Pennzoil salesman from the early 00's lol) and I always put it into vehicles I care about. The heat removal characteristics are an interesting detail I wasn't aware of previously.
I'm not an expert but I think that the best way to understand it is,
Is by imagining having marbles all of the same size, and rolling an object on top of it.
Versus having marble of different sizes.
Whilst liquid cooled engines rely on coolant to keep the engine at a certain temperature, removing some heat from the engine is still a function of oil.
Which is why an air-cooled engine will run hotter using a thinner oil compared to a thicker oil.
As is keeping "particles" in suspension and carrying them to the oil filter, which is why it always baffles me when people add an engine flush to engine oil that is clearly already "saturated"....
Thank you for the work! These videos have changed my thinking in a massive way. Old skool knowledge, RIP.
Awesome! I'm glad to hear that.
I'm glad I stumbled across this. I've been using Super tech for years and always thought it was an alright oil for a daily driver and I have been using it in my 2010 F150 for years now when a quart of basically anything not ST started hitting the 6-8 buck mark. Bought the truck with 117k and I just rolled over to 268 with zero issues. No leaks, no excessive wear issues at all. Change it every 5k.
So you use high mileage oil? Which engine do you have? Thanks
@@ajmedeiros775.4 3 valve and I use high mileage but have used the typical full synthetic when I can't find it. Haven't had any issues with either.
@@alpha2gproject783 I have 5.4 2 valve. It’s slow but reliable lol. I use high mileage oil as well. 5w30 summer, 5w20 winter. No matter what oil, regular changes are key, especially if with the 3 valve! Crazy it’s either three valves that are trash and have to be replaced or three valves with tons and tons of miles on them lol
That's definitely true. Honestly I feel like the 09-10's don't have many of the same issues as the 04-08 and if memory serves me correctly that's because the later years is a considered a second generation with many updates and modifications.
I had a 4.6 2 valve F150 and honestly I have to say that even with the added weight of the 09-14 body styles there is still a night and day difference. Which is weird because when I was looking for a truck I considered a 14 Coyote and Ecoboost but neither truck felt like it had much over the 5.4. I believe it has to do with where the torque is compared to those two and there's no turbos to keep up with.
It's been a great truck and if it ever dies I'm just going to get a long block, put some forged rods in it and drive it until the frame splits in two because I hate buying new and there's nothing that a new truck offers that mine doesn't already have.@@ajmedeiros77
I will say this tho…havoline full synthetic is a great oil. Great numbers on virgin samples. And comes in 6 quart boxes as many engines require 5.5-6 quarts. And when on sale in $22! Absolutely can’t be beat.
Lake, I would like to see you do a video on synthetic oil production. How it is make, what is it made from? What is PAO, what is ester? Is it made from crude oil? I look forward to your videos as I just bought a new Tacoma (23 V6) now with 2400 miles, initial change at 1000.
The Don is always appreciated!!
He's the man!
@@themotoroilgeekCAN YOU PLEASE, PLEASE, PURTY PLEASE, DO MOTORCYCLE OILS.
Specifically Amsoil vs. Rotella T6. The Amsoil is way more expensive, but is it way better? If it's slightly better that doesn't justify paying that much more.
In other words I'm not curious if Amsoil is better than Rotella T6, I know it is. I'm curious if it's worth the extra money.
You'll need to test this with a wet clutch on your test rig or an actual motorcycle.
Also I'm willing to donate non contaminated used oil. I'll be very careful cleaning the oil pan AND the oil container.
This is my 2nd oil change with Rotella. I bought the bike with 6800 miles and now it's at dang near 18000.
@@themotoroilgeekOne more thing...
I commute 50 miles to work, so the loads applied are fairly consistent. This will somewhat mitigate 3rd variables. Obviously not as ideal as a test rig, but decently consistent.
@@Stacy_Smith I'm working on it! I promise it will happen.
@themotoroilgeek THANK YOU SIR!!!
I used Super tech oil 10w40 and Super tech filters. My truck is an 1998 Dodge Ram 1500, 208,698 miles. It's only had a failed wiper motor switch and a failed water pump . The engine is Still crisp and Sounds Great. No Smoke .
I would like to see an analysis video on Havoline synthetic in a modern recommended viscosity, such as up to 5w30 and how well it may stack up when used in a direct-injection, or DI w/turbo. I can't find a PQIA on a modern Havoline sample.
As always, a great video for the lubricant fanatics of the world.
Had a 2008 Tundra. When i traded for a 2019 Tundra it had close to 300,000 miles. I used super tech oil every oil change.
This has been known over at BITOG for many years now.
Thank you for getting it out there though, it's appreciated.
Send me that "flush" oil!! I will put in my cars truck or jeep lol
I switched from mineral to synthetic oil in my Land Rover 90 and I noticed it was running just a tick or two cooler. Not much and in fact, I I though it was just me, but it is nice to know I can get that hot running motor a little relief, especially in this gulf coast heat.
Might want to consider running Redline Water Wetter in your coolant too. Should also lower temps
@@thestigisme2349 I already do! LOL
@@thestigisme2349
I use straight water and the wetter here in the northeast.
The ol vr6 likes it and when it's like 65 ambient out it'll struggle to hit 195 on the coolant temp and usually gives around the 180 range.
Scangage is nice for that stuff, as these vws have a lying gauge on the dash.
It'll read 190 anywhere from an actual 165-200.
Literally if you see it running 1 needle width above 190, it's probably close to 210-215.
@@MrTheHillfolkI love having a digital read out of the exact temp too rather than going by my gauge which also barely moves. I use the UltraGuage 2 though and love it. It’s small and can fit upto 8 gauges on one screen and gives check engine codes in real time. It’s amazing and was cheap too.
I drive a 97 2500 chevy 5.7. Learned about friction modifiers in the 80s looking for oil for my motorcycles. Back then I knew Honda didn't make oil but recommended "Honda" oil at $9.00 a quart. Diesel oil doesn't have friction reducers that wet clutch plates don't like. Been using diesel oil since. My truck has enjoyed diesel synthetic ever since I got it with 200k on it and has 320k now.
I know there are down sides to diesel oil but I'm good. I survived covid on my own without a mask and my truck runs great.
Such a great channel! I really enjoy this education, Lake. Look forward to the next one.
Thanks!
Thanks for yet another interesting video. After watching your videos I shifted from conventional to full synthetic oil in my ‘98 Tahoe. Conventional took me from new to 330K miles with no engine work and still no oil additions between the 5K mile oil changes and I have the feeling that for typical northern US drivers oil/filter change interval is FAR more important than oil type.
You can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec. A cheap petroleum oil will give you no better oil analysis then the most expensive 100% synthetic.
I would love to see a list of common cars and trucks and the oil you would use for each vehicle. I speak for many watching, we would love the advice. Thanks
Great suggestion!
Again thank you sir for making these videos sir. They have helped me explain oil to my family who all have better cars then myself but knew nothing about oil in the slightest. You deserve an award sir
My opinion is the viscosity and filtration are the two most important things to get right for longevity. Viscosity keeps things apart and filtration keeps things from getting in the oil film and damaging the engine components. We had limousines with bypass filtration that kept the oil clean as new and the engines just never wore out.
Like my dad said , it doesn’t matter what brand you use , just make sure you change every 3,000 miles and you be ok 😮😮
While not motor oil...could you do a video/series on other related fluids and how they relate/don't relate. Fluids such as auto transmission fluids, gear oils, and possibly even hydraulic oils.
I second that!
Those in favor, say aye.
Non-synthetic
I bought new a 1994 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 1500with a 5.7. My engine shop Chief worked p/t evenings at WalMart. I used Walmart 10/30 for 268,000 miles and changed it every 3,000 along with filter. 14 1/2 yrs later I sold it to my neighbor who INSISTED on her having it. It used 1/2 qt between changes. Truck never let me down. I bought another same GMC with a 5.3 engine for another 14 1/2 yrs with same results. This time I used the oil quick chg place at the dealer.
A Lake Jr & Gale Banks collaboration would be the ultimate=The details, excitement and charisma would probably make screens shatter!
LOL, Gale is great.
@@themotoroilgeekgale always runs his dyno test at peak for a lot longer period of time than u do
@@user-od4op8pc7ndifferent rings + different hone = different break-in procedure and time
The Supertech stuff I believe is manufactured by Warren Oil. They also manufacture the Costco Kirkland oils, which I just recently adopted into my maintenance schedules in my brand new '24 Toyota Tacoma. This is my first usage of this manufacturer's oils, and thus far I'm happy. Good oil at a reasonable price!
and amazon oils, you are correct! i saw a comparison vid of all 3 & they all tested the same! i believe that the kirkland is the cheapest of the 3...
I deep dived it years ago. it used to be 3 different companies but it depended where your geographic location as to who you got oil from. in south east it was ExxonMobil in south central it was Warren. now I think it is made by a company called Delphin and all they make is non branded oil. If you really want to know go to Walmart sds and it will say where your oil is from.
Yes all 3 are the same oil per testing on RUclips. Get which ever is cheapest. I found Kirkland to be cheaper but they don’t always have high mileage oil in stock
I've been using Kirkland oil for years on 4 different vehicles with no issues as well. Good oil, that's cheaper and gets changed more often. The best oil is clean oil.
Rural king store uses the same oil as Walmart as well. 5 quart jug full synthetic $20 and a OE filter. Been using it for years not a problem one. Change every 5k.
Castrol GTX best conventional oil by far!..
Tested it for yrs in various engines, nothing beats it for holding viscosity and stability. Stays good looking for a very long time.
I beg to differ. I bought a brand new 1984 Oldsmobile Toronado. Owned it for its entire life and after an accident decided to rebuild the engine at 140k. I ran castrol GTX exclusively and always changed the oil every 3k miles. Well long story short…the engine was just full of sludge. This was 1983-2001 time period.
I preferred conventional Valvoline 10W-30 over the rest of them and have been running their Max life synthetic blend 10W-30 since it came out..
I found it stays cleaner longer as well as it's viscosity holds up longer.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. And that’s all it is. Unfortunately the facts disagree.
@@TheMangler777I think it was the engine…
@@Turbogto_guyYou can run anything you like as long as it meets the spec that engine is rated for. You can run a cheap petroleum, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or the best 100% synthetic you can find and the difference in your oil analysis will be minimal.
I am so happy to have found your channel, I learn new stuff all the time.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks from Australia well done
Thanks for watching!
The biggest thing that was drummed into our heads at the various military schools that I attended was CLEAN OIL IS THE LIFEBLOOD OF YOUR ENGINE.
Awesome video Lake! Still waiting on the results for the Pennzoil can’t wait!!
Thanks, the Pennzoil video came out last month: ruclips.net/video/vwqIdFeP_1c/видео.html
@@themotoroilgeek ohh I thought we would have one after the double flush!
Also if a car can run 5w40 can you run 0w40 in upstate ny?
Is it ok to use full synthetic high mileage oil Mobil 1 5/20 -2004 f-150 4.6 even though the manual calls for synthetic blend?
@@donniejenkins7909 Look in the manual. If the oil meets OR EXCEEDS those API specs you’re good. The synthetic absolutely should be a higher spec than the blend and should at least meet but look in the manual and look on the bottle. Do a little googling of API specs to be sure. No guessing.
I am a snowmobiler, and there's so much snake oil around two-stroke oils for snowmobiles. Especially OEM oils vs. aftermarket. Would love to see a shootout of various OEM 2 stroke oils (especially the $60 a gallon Ski-Doo full synthetic) vs. Aftermarket oils.
I run lucas in my chainsaws and two stroke dirt bikes. Mostly because thats what available at the the local O’riellys. Never had any trouble with it even ragging out those dirt bikes on hill climbing and lots of high rpm wide open riding. Granted I don’t ride as hard as I used to but still I don’t baby durt bikes either.
@robertbrewer2179 Lucas makes a low ash synthetic snowmobile oil that i have used but it can be hard to find at most local stores in my area (IL, WI, and U.P. of MI) Modern 2 stroke snowmobiles and watercraft need a low ash 2 stroke formulation. Many of the 2 stroke oils available at discount and hardware stores contain no ash and our design for marine applications. Definitely not what I want to use in a snowmobile. Would be interested in shootout with OEM oils vs. Aftermarket oils designed for Sleds
Great way to start my day, geeking out on oils!
I'm glad to help get your day started right!
As an old automotive technician I think the variable hardness of the experimental rings is a an answer to a problem that doesn’t exist at least in stock applications. My specialty for almost 30 years has been engine repair and rebuilding. I’m either competent or just extremely lucky in that I’ve never had a comeback due to oil consumption. If you use the right rings for the application, check your clearances during the rebuild and break the engine in accordingly oil consumption is almost nonexistent. The #1 cause I’ve seen of oil consumption is not wear or a lack of rings seating correctly but it’s HARD carbon deposits literally cementing the rings to the piston. I can name numerous Asian and domestic engines that are plagued by this even with sufficient oil changes by the owner.
If Valvoline R&P proves to have the ability to soften and remove the carbon they will have a winner oil . I’m somewhat skeptical at this point. I rebuilt a K24A last week that the carbon deposits in the oil ring land drains were so hard that I had to drill them out with a sharp drill bit. The oil essentially had no way to drain from the bores and was getting consumed by the engine. That engine had every high end flush that you could name to try to soften and remove the deposits but it made no difference at all other than lighten the owner’s wallet. These are just my experience and my opinions based on what I have seen.
@@KS-nr6wvAbout two days worth 😂
You're reminding me again of that 390 Ford I had back in the 70s with the stuck rings. Darn, if I knew then what I had learned later, I would have done everything I have ever heard of to get the carbon out. I eventually did do a backyard ring job. Part of what I learned though came from tearing down that engine. The cast iron V-8s of that era had a terrible reputation for wearing out early. The actual problem, especially with the small block Chevys, was lack of maintenance. Part of it though is that it was hard to get an oil change back then sometimes and if you changed your own oil, there was no regular place to recycle the drain oil either.
A friend of mine who was a gearhead and street rodder back then said his friends who had small black Chevys changed the oil every 2000 miles. With the amount of mineral residues in the gas and the blowby those engines had, probably a good idea to change the oil that early. Another issue was clogged cooling systems. The coolant they had back then was not long life and the cast iron engines produced large amounts of scale in the cooling system. Ignore maintenance and the engines turned into oil burning, overheating messes in not too long. Another bonus was the rear seal going bad. That was another consequence of poor maintenance.
I have rebuilt a couple gas engines at 300K miles, and the oil control rings, oil distribution holes as well as the gap behind the compression rings was completely filled with light brown ash deposits. I have recently disassembled a 0.67L 3 cyl 1800rpm diesel engines, and found both broken rings and carboned up stuck rings. But i have not seen this, in a handful of 1.9L VW tdi engines. The oil control and compression rings are not carboned up even with poor maintenance at 250K miles.
TLDR: Cheap brand synthetic oil is better.
2:57
@@aliendroneservices6621 Depends on the specific product and country.
Supertech proved to be good plenty of times :)
Here in Europe I love the Mannol PD 5w40
I wish he would test amsoil..
@@davidgalea6113 Amsoil and Redline are top notch :)
Ravenol ( for euro market ) too 👍🏻
@@dimmacommunicationforgot hpl and driven.
Thank you Lake for taking your time to explain the science of lubricants.
Privateers need to know as much as possible if they are competing against professional teams, to know where to find HP vs durability, because you know that the pros have engineers for all aspects of the vehicle.
This information is equally useful for all car enthusiasts or regular motorists, now we can make more informed choices, without having to rely on tribal or slick sales commercials.
Looking forward to the next upload.
Wow, great stuff, I am re-thinking my choices of oil usage. Thanks.
I have been buying Havoiline oil for the last 15 years to use in my vehicles. I really like the performance !! Always great videos guys
Walmart is really hard to beat on oil prices, but they really shine for car batteries. They are all made my johnson controls these days with different labels and walmarts are the "freshest" around, typically not even 2 months old. Auto parts stores have batteries sit around on the shelf for 6-8 months. I've even had them give me no grief swaps under warranty w/o receipt too....
neverstart batteries are the best
Johnson Controls sold its battery division in 2019 to Brookfield Business Partners, the company is now called Clarios. I've had good luck with East Penn made batteries, 16 yr. old Deka in my tractor, and 11 yr. old Car Quest in my Tacoma.
My mechanic had a number of his customers with Subaru's, having oil consumption issues. He switched them to conventional oil, 3000 mile changes. The consumption issues stopped.
I have a 2018 Subaru Outback that uses oil. It is the 0w20 synthetic.
What conventional oil did your mechanic switch to? I don’t recall seeing 0w20 conventional oil
In my 21 turbo Subaru, I just change it every 4 months. Mosty because it's 4 miles of slow driving dirt roads every time it goes out.
@@RedboneTool You can't get MINERAL 0W20 engine oil.
From memory all OW oils are full synthetic base (man made, not from any crude whatsoever)
If I was in your position I would look at what oil viscosities the manufacturer recommends, and if a thicker is allowed (5W30 etc) I would go down that path.
As well as jumping onto a Subaru forum in your country, and see what other people are doing.
@@notsureyouI assume you mean you can’t get conventional 0w-20.
Def good to see what you can use from the manufacturer and what tolerances they allow for
There is no more solid advise than talking to the guys on the forums with you particular model car. They know. I’m a member or civic and accord forums as well as rav4world. 😁
Subaru boxer engines are competing for the worst engines of all time.
Super Tech comes from Warren Dist. who buy from one of the major oil companies like Mobil/Exon - Conoco/Philips - Shevron/Havolin.
They used to market Supers oil sold at Kmart and it was a great oil also and very affordable
When my 350 smallblock (flat tappet) was losing a gallon of oil every 1000 miles I used the Supertech Synthetic, which at the time was $25 for a 3 gallon box.
Since the rebuild I have been using VR1 Synthetic 10W30 on a 5,000 mile change interval. I run that 5,000 miles in less than 100 engine hours since I drive 90% interstate.
The results show those were both excellent decisions
I'm in southern Calif and I can't even imagine going that many miles on the highway, you can't go more than 10 miles without hitting traffic unless you drive at 3 AM... you must spend most of your waking hours behind the wheel. How did you get time to write that comment?
So you rebuilt the enging and then used vr1? Btw VR1 has no detergents for cleaning.
Id say if the rebuild happened it wasnt supertech oil causing the oil loss. It was an old worn out engine.
Thank you very much , what I learned about this very well done study is I am not so much worried about gaining or losing a few horse power but more concerned about ware and heat thus the need for synthetics.
Right on!
@@themotoroilgeek Castrol gtx 5w-30 ultraclean , felt better than synthetic in my diesel car , noticeable increase in power
Oh FML I love this guy!!! Another amazing video. Please don't ever change your style my man 🙌
Thank you!
I have been running super tech for years. Thanks to your videos i have changed from a 5w20 to a 10w30 in my jeep. At least for the summer here in AZ. In October i will go to the 5w30.
What jeep? 3.8?
@@goclunker yes
@@MrTopHat4 you can run w40. Try to find a 5w40. I run 5w40 on my 3.8L Caravan because as you know, these motors can consume oil. I also connected the PCV to a catch can and its vent to atmosphere from there.
I plugged the port on the intake manifold. I was finding that my 3.8 was consuming a lot of oil through the PCV, even when I replaced the valve with a new mopar one.
I live in Socal, so it is hot here as well. w40 is cheap protection running a motor in this heat, no oil sheer when it gets hotter than hot.
@@goclunker thanks for the info
I really enjoy your testing and comparisons. Getting educated here.
Very cool engineering on the variable ring material. The choice of off the shelf Havoline and Supertech comparison was a surprise, but quite revealing on the test results.
Thanks!
Lake, At 73 I have learned more about oil in an hour of watching your vids than I have learned in my entire life! After picking up my jaw off the floor, all I can say is, THANK YOU! I subscribed.
That is awesome!
Until this channel came along, I wouldn't have known that I too was a motor oil geek.
I've been using Supertech oil for years. I have several cars all with high mileage and the engines are super smooth and quiet
VERY interesting as always Lake! Does the FTIR testing illustrate "film strength". That's one issue you haven't mentioned so far and one that's not mentioned in UOA test results. Blogger 540 RAT and Project Farm do mechanical film strength testing with wear scar results, and there are noticeable differences among oil brands. Also, you have yet to mention differences between "synthetic" hydrocracked mineral oil (Group III), and true synthetics like PAOs and esters (Groups IV and V). Lastly, in reference to Super Tech, you said the additive package "requested by Walmart". Super Tech is API SP and ILSAC GF-6 like almost every other oil on the shelf, meaning it meets current industry standards. Keep it coming Lake!
Valvoline 3-30 in my motors. 3k mile changes. Over 250,000 miles on all.
I actually use Havoline 10w30 conventional in a older vehicle.😅 I remember the commercials add more life to your car. It would be interesting to see how well the Havoline synthetic oils hold up to the bigger Name brands.
Was owned by Texaco back then too. I was an ardent user and supporter back then.
Havoline in conventional form was quite good back in the mid-late 80s. I used the 10-30 and straight 30 on different vehicles at that time with success.
The Havoline commercial at the time claimed that their oils were 'state trooper tested...'
I've got a 2003 Nissan Frontier 6 cylinder with well over 300000 on the clock and still going strong. All I've done is change the oil every 5000 miles with the WalMart SuperTech synthetic. The valve seats are tired, but compression is still high and there is no bottom end rattle whatsoever.
I use Supertech exclusively. I started using it many years ago because it met the same standards as all the other name brand oils at about 1/2 the price. Two vehicles, change oil every 4000-5000 miles, 40,000 miles a year driven. Saved about $15 a change. That's thousands of dollars over the last 25 years.
Thank you Lake for confirming what I “hoped” was good oil in the Super Tech line of synthetics.
I prefer baked flounder ! Lol!
But, seriously, we change motor oil and oil filter every season, or 4 times a year regardless of the miles driven.
These types of videos are great 👍 I usually buy Mobil1 from Walmart. For my RAV4 it’s either ordering the Toyota branded oil at a relatively high price or get the 5-quart Mobil1 jugs at Walmart. It’s usually around $25. When there is a “rollback” sale, and it’s even cheaper, I buy a few jugs and store it in the garage. I put on a lot of miles on the car and change the oil every 3000 miles. So, the cost factor is important…
Who knew Supertech was such good oil. Thanks!
I use it often on both of my cars with over 200k miles or 320k km.
It's not, synthetic is just vastly superior than conventional. Other synthetics are far better.
@@OtisFlintAbsolutely false statement. See project Farm. This oil performs as well as any full synthetic, with only two or three brands being marginally better, with one of the two Costing 3x as much.
@@TonicofSonicIt won’t outperform Redline tho I bet, that’s group 5.
Works just as well as any other
Just change it at 5000
Kirkland from.costco
Oreillys oil
Amazon basic all the same oil
I've put over 1,000,000 miles on SuperTech oil in various cars and trucks. Not one oil related failure. 😆.
What about Valvoline restore & protect against Toyota 0w-16 would be interesting 👍
Good suggestion!
Careful, you are gonna cost him sponsorships talking like that. Asking for science on a brand he is paid to promote is a big no no.
@@caesarflickerman7047no sponsors on this channel
Working with Dodge on the Hellcat hayday I had free access to penzoil products so for years that's all any vehicles in my extended family ever ran. 7500km oil changes and never an issue. Once I changed jobs and lost that little perk and realized a gallon of penzoil ultra is like $60 in Canada I switched everything to ST because a 5l jug is 24 bucks. Glad to hear everything is just fine with this brand.
I see Lake talking about racing oils vs conventional in this video, sounds like the setup to the potential next video of Boutique oils. AKA the Amsoil, Redline, Ravenol and HPL episode.
We shall see...
I'd love to see a video about boutique oils.
@@themotoroilgeekLake,
I’d love to see boutique motor oils and gear oil/transmisison fluid!
@@themotoroilgeek yeah you now have me curious what oil I should be running in my race car that i pretty much daily as well. I put about 20k miles a year on the car and LS dart block setup with almost 1,400 whp. I currently run 20w50 vr1 right now and change the oil every 1,500 miles or after a full weekend of racing.
2001 Toyota Tacoma with the V6 5Vz FE, 356,000 miles. Been using Supertech almost forever it seems. Best vehicle I've ever owned. Pulls the boat, daily driver & money maker!
I know this is off topic but can you do a video on hybrid specific oils like the Valvoline and mobile 1 oils that was designed with hybrids in mind? There is very little information on them (besides the company description). I wanted to see if it’s just marketing or do they actually benefit hybrid engines.
it's nice to see this is still true. Every car I've had or have known about that's had problems with engine wear is either someone not doing maintenance or because of a design issue with the car. As long as the oil meets spec, and probably even that has leeway, I've never seen early failure in any car engine because a spec oil wasn't as good as another on spec oil.
I've owned a scion XB in the past (oil burner from the factory) and a hyundai (started fast oil consumption at 80k miles with no warning and no indicator). the scion was 16 years old when I got rid of it, though, it just consumed about a quart per 1000 miles depending on what you were doing driving and you had to pay attention to the level. A month after the hyundai, which wasn't a 4 cylinder, but same issue - sudden oil consumption despite synthetic oil every 5k and always oil in spec - a month after It started consuming oil, a trucker hit us on the interstate in the snow and that solved that problem.
Super tech, amazon and costco are all from Warren Petroleum. Likely no real difference.
Big Fan of ST Full Synthetic and hope WM & current producer neither try to cut cost or just switch up to another processor. Run it in a 2AZ-FE that is THIRSTY!
Loved it. But have you compared the Walmart oil with a fully synthetic namebrand made for passenger cars?
Stay tuned!
i used walmart synthetic blend for years on my HHR. engine ran like a champ
It would be very informative if you could run a wear test on 2-stroke mineral vs. synthetic outboard oil and find if there is any truth to being able to run a higher ratio mix and thus lowering emissions. Regards !
Great idea, I run a lot of two-stroke lawn equipment and this has been something on my mind for years.
Recently, a buddy gave me a spare bottle of his Amsoil 2 stroke oil and he swears it can be mixed as little as 100:1 and protect the same as 50:1.
He said he does that with all of his equipment (proffesional; lawn guy) and he hasn’t had a failure yet in the 3 years he’s been running it, I’m a little skeptical and I ran it at the recommended ratio 50:1. Lol
I'd watch that!!
2 cycle oils are something we will get to!
Many will recall the old dyno tests which suggested increased performance at higher oil concentration. It might also be interesting to include one of the formulations which includes castor, sold by Klotz and Maxima.
@@emmettmackan7900Indeed, the power kept going up until they just called it a day. 😆 Castor oil is unique, not The best lubrication under normal circumstances but it adds a bit of protection when things start to go wrong.
This helped me really understand what's going on and the reason my outboard engine manufacturer recommends the synthetic blend that they do. All the "experts" online say to run full synthetic but that would likely run really cold in an engine that already runs in the 140s. Very cool video!
What happens to high quality oil, low miles but high time like 2 years in the engine.
We typically see that the high quality oils can still be good for two years even with low miles.
I was told by a mechanic, many years ago to change the oil every 1,000 miles. I have done that for years. I generally drive a car for at least 300,000 miles before I replace it. I never have problems with the engines. In my opinion change the oil and filter every 1,000 miles if you want your engine to last.
I really want to see you run tests on the Motul 300V Competition in any of the grades, too see the wear and oil life expectancy, i run the 5w40 in a street car but it only gets run 3000 miles a year at most.
sounds like a subie❤
+1. Would love to see a proper test of it. I run the 0w-20 in winter and the 5w-30 in summer in my FL5 type r. Change every 4500-6000 miles.
I saw UOA from someone using that oil in the same engine with 8000 miles interval (including tracking it) and the results looked good, but I prefer to play it safe.
I love these videos! You guys are geniuses! I haven’t built an engine in over 35 years. I always broke them in like I stole them! Then always changed the oil religiously. I had good results from that. I wish today’s engine and oil technology had been available.
All engine builders are going to have to raise their game or get left behind, never to catch up🤔
Exciting but worrying at the same time. Is there the customers out there looking for this level of perfection.
Would be interesting to see how the Gibbs HR1 and Gp1 oils compared to the VR1. Been running HR1 in a small engine, over here in the UK, that is more like an early 70's Japanese motorcycle unit. Ie 1000cc sohc flat tappet 100hp 8k rpm.
Been running the same motors for 40 years, the HR1 does seem to save money over a season. Though understanding has moved on quite a bit in 40 years even at my low level
I am using the HR1 10w40 Driven Conventional oil in my Toyota 3Vze for the elevated zinc. Synthetic Mob1 caused oil loss 1 qt each 1000mi
love the GEEK stuff
Thanks!
Excellent work. Very gripping and interesting if an engine geek like me.
I purchase strictly on emotion. So this information was great.
1. I've had two engines fail using Valvoline. Emotional: I NEVER use Valvoline again.
2. Emotional: Rotella with MMO, all engines go 200k, 300k+ seemingly no wearing, no consumption issues, quiet and never fail!!.Running better progressively!!
3. No lab tech, just emotional and observation RECENTLY. New discovery!!! Transport Fleet owner gave me care instructions for HIS truck I operated: Wal-Mart synthetic @ every 10,000 miles.
So confused now. Thought I had this engine oil success it figured out.
The Walmart full synthetic 10k mile intervals yielded 387,000 mile engine still running beautifully and level staying well within dipstick range for 10k miles!! Fascinating!.
Tough to beat Walmart on oil prices. I've used the full synthetic version of that 6 qt box of Havoline and it used to be a Walmart exclusive only available through online order. I also used the Supertech 5W30 (Warren Distribution) full synthetic Dexos approved oil in this current change. I'll buy whatever Walmart's cheapest full-synthetic is when I change the oil, and lately it's always ST.
I've also used both of those from Walmart for years, gets dumped out of crankcase at 5000 miles , best bang for the buck.
Supertech is actually made by 3 companies depending on where you live in the country
@@stevennunez6013 I know that. It's always been Warren in my area so far. The bottle shape tells the story.
@@dskwared2u610 What do I need to look at to determine if Warren sourced Supertech? Only 1 shaped jug I've seen here in Indiana. Will the printed ink code on bottle let me know? Thanks
With the Money I've saved over the year's buying the cheapest supermarket fully synthetic instead of very expensive named brand's I could probably buy a Rolls Royce with the savings 😊😊.
Super Tech has been my brand of oil for over 20 years. I've used it in all flavors with absolute success.
Myth Busted! Great video!
Yes! Thank you!