Many years later and your video still helps many folks:) Thank you for taking the time to make the video clear and easy to follow. Mooch ass grassy ass!
Hey, thanks ruyguy8888, I've been having many pissed off moments, trying to find info on how to pull my '97 big bear, front diff out, to get the drive shaft out, and replace the universals. Everything on RUclips was rear diff, rear diff, rear diff, until I scrolled and scrolled, then found you. Your tutorial is AAWWWWWWSOME! Cheers Bro.
Like video, nice tear down. Like the info for the pinion gear bearing removal, You called it crown gear. That special yamaha bolt on the servo motor with the pin in it is called a security torx. You can buy them torx drivers with the hole in the center just ask for torx security bits.
This is great. My diff locker is Stuck Stuck. I engaged it in a bind and it wont come out of it, so I'm going to pull the diff and see whats going on. Thank you for the break down.
Great to see this video is still helping people 10 years later. Sounds like your shift fork that goes inside the collar might be bent or the rail skipped a tooth and got out of time keeping the diff lock collar locked, if it was engaged in a bind.
@@ruyguy8888 Yeah, I'm really not sure, all I know is that I engaged diff lock while my front tires were in a bind stuck in a trench. Then I slowly revved up and I heard what sounded like grinding, then I let off, tried again, and it made that horrible grinding sound again. killed the bike and called a friend to pull me out with his tractor, and it didn't grind since, but now it is stuck in diff lock. somethings broken I'm affraid :(. Going to try to see into it this week, I'll keep you posted, and if not just reply to this comment and I might get back to you 👍
Great vids! I just got back into riding and bought an 02' 660 that is in dire need of some TLC to say least. Your vids will go a long way in knowing what to expect when I start tearing into to mine.
Thanks for the video, used it to tear down my whole front end. Just noticed that my front oil seal is leaking around the front driveshaft. You mentioned in the vid that it was a bear to replace. How did you get that U-Joint off to access it? Did you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor?
you should be able to get a pick in there to remove the C clips on the u joint and start pounding out the cups to get access to the yoke nut. You probably will need to remove the CVT intake tube to get it out of the way first however. And for easier access Id suggest dropping your skid plates too. This is all going by memory as i have a 700 grizzly now, however i believe that's all that was required. It's more visible from under the ATV.
Does any body know what the torque specs are for the 6 bolts holding the spider gear together? Nothing in the manual and says not to take apart (too late)!
Great video and you did a real through job with nothing left to chance. My boot on the front drive shaft is torn - right near where it joins to the differential. Went to Yamaha and they said the whole shaft (new) with new boots has to be done as the front boot can't be replaced by itself. It's cheaper to get the front drive shaft off of ebay rather then buy it from the yamaha. Some say one doesn't have to change the whole shaft out but I don\t know if this is true or not. I have been driving the 660 around for quite some time and just pressed greased into the area of where the boot is torn and I suspect it's time to do the repairs. With the change of the shaft is it necessary to do all the work that you have done to the front differential...? Or, is it ok to just change the shaft out with new boots. At this time I do not know if the seals or bearings were damaged from water and dirt. Your suggestions will be appreciated.
www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039182f870021f60a0d584/drive-shaft Unfortunately i cannot see any way around getting a new assembly. All manufacturers like to do silly things like this instead of making sense. In all honesty, if you have been driving the bike like this for some time on anything other than asphalt, you will already have done quite a bit of damage to the CV joints. this would be one of the few times id have to agree with the dealership and say go order a new assembly. Mixing new , tacky grease with dirt, dust, rocks, sand, water, mud etc... will wear out your CV cage 10X faster than if it was clean.
thanks for your previous answer, what weight gear oil do you use in the front diff and rear axle of a 2006 660 grizzly. is it necessary to use yamaha products?
No Robert, just a good quality 80W90 mineral oil. You can switch to a 140W synthetic, however its not needed as there are no clutches or pressure plates in the diffs
I don't have this machine any more but i really don't think there is enough clerance between the pinion gear bolts and the pilot bearing in order to pull it out that way. The cir-clip should be the only thing holding that bearing a crown gear in so i would suspenct you have corrosion between your case and bearing holing everything together.
thanks for posting the video. Is putting it back together as simple as slapping it all back in in the right order or do the gears need to be lined up in a certain manner?
Make sure you don't end up bending the shift fork. It will not effect the operation but it will throw the 4WD sensor of and it will read as if its in 4X4 all the time
love your vids im rebuilding a 2003 660 that i bought second hand and i have a question and was hopeing you could help i got rhino axles for a 2003 and they all fit right except the right rear axle the inner cup is different than the stock i took out super atv says it is right and they have a 2003 there with there axle in it but on mine it sticks out too far and the axle seal does not make contact wre it should my stock axles in the rear are different inner cups and it shoyuld be a 2003 rear diff but there axle just wont work have you any insite on this misstery did you say in one vid that yours was a 2002 i would like to see a close up of a rear axle if you had an old one lying around maybe or any info that might help thanks and if not no problem
Esto es 2002. Este fue el primer año en que fabricaron el 660 y usaron ejes cardán en lugar de cvt para el eje de transmisión delantero. Años posteriores, Yamaha usó una configuración diferente. Traducido en el traductor de Google
I've not replaced one of those CV drive shafts before, however with that design you might just luck out and be able to unbolt the front diff and slide it forward enough to clear the splines.
Hey great video!! I have a rhino 2009 and my differential works but 4WD does not work , any suggestions on what could be my problem , before I start taking it apart
+Nicholas Chiasson Are you hearing your servo motor kick in when you hit the 4wd button? if not, id first check the 2 amp fuse in your panel. if that is ok, id suggestion cleaning any grit that may have worked its way into the harness plug for the front diff. if your servo motor engages and disengages ok, then you may have a broken or bent actuator pin on your rack gear inside your front diff.
Looking at your video, which was pretty good overall , I have to ask you to confirm these questions. Does the front drive shaft turn when the rear shaft is turning? If so that would mean your front differential crown gear is always turning. If this is the case then in 2 wheel drive ,,,,are both axles isolated from the turning of the crown gear?
Hey Glen. The front driveshaft on these 660's are constantly turning from the middle drive gear output of the transmission to the input of the front differential. Where you are getting your 2WD/4WD selection is from an electronically actuated servo on the side of the front differential. It engages the front Crown into the spider gear set and further more to lock up the front to 100% ruclips.net/video/UKqYbFB03VY/видео.html Follow this link here to show a video explanation of the front engagement. it shows that your input Collar has three positions, Off, 2wd with slip front (ie..1wd) then full lock of the front diff for true 2wd on the front half. Hope that helps some.
Hey, great video, thanks! I have a 2004 Grizzly 660 and my front left oil seal is shot on my front differential where the shaft goes in. I have a rebuild kit which includes a new oil seal, any idea on how to change the seal? Do I need to rip the differential apart or is there an easier way? I already have the axle pulled out.
If you can get your impact on the big nyloc nut on the front differential then the yoke will just pull out. then you can just pop the old seal out and put the new one back in. However you must ask yourself, are the pinion bearings going to last you a while yet, or should you pull the diff out now while you have everything half done. If it was the pinion bearings that have play, and are the cause of the seal falure, then i would take the extra time and pull the front diff.
Side seals are not so bad. If you have to split the case for a seal is when in gets bad. Make sure you use good quality seals and bearings to do the job right the first time. Spend a bit more if you have to but you will save in the end. your time is also valuable.
hey man i followed your video step by step installed all that new bearings and seals from allballz, i thought everything was ok until i realized that the spider gears are really hard to turn would you know why i still have it in pieces im going to attack it tomorrow anything thoughts to why its doing this
The spider gears will be a bit stiff with no oil, however if they don't feel quite right, are you sure you placed all of the spacers (big thin washers) and shims in place and at the right location? It doesn't take much for tolerance differences to bind up a set of gears.
can u tell me how many teeth are on pinion gear ,ring gear, looking at putting this diff in my 600,has to be 2002 because the front ujoint style ,if gearing is same i can make mounts,spline up some shafts, sadly 600 no diff lock
I think you will be SOL on that build. The gearing was changed after the revamp of the grizzly in 02. You went from A Solid rear Axle machine with a taller gear in the belt drive and lower in the diffs, to an independent rear with taller gearing in the diffs and lower in the belt drive.
if you want both yokes replaced then you will have to remove everything from the front pinion spline to the diff. If its just the u joints you can losen up the front diff, pound out the c-clips and cups on the Joint and replace them with everything mostly in place. But for your own sanity, do yourself a favor and just remove everything ti clean and inspect it.
well got it today opened it up ,gear ratio is the same both 33 tooth ring 9 tooth pinion, but here is the problem,dont think it will work ,mine has 6 inch ring gear, 2002 has 5 1/2 inch ring gear, so even thou the gear ratio is same , i think they will spin at diffrent speed, because ring gear size,
hi bro I have problem with my 2002 grizzly 660 ,my servo motor sometime is working sometimes no ,when I when I push the button I hear the relay click bad the motor is no turning
thanks for the reply, i think the gearing is the same, from what seen on google,mine has a 33 tooth ring gear, 9 tooth pinion,looking at pics, i think is the same count on 2002 i did find some pics ,hard to count 100%,but think it"s the same ,looking at your video, it looks like 9 tooth pinion,i know the ring gear is same tooth count 33. i got 1 coming, i"ll have to see, thanks again for reply
If everything works out for you, let me know. I help run a local forums here and that information would be great to know. Thanks. And let me know how you set up your switches for the 2wd/4wd and diff lock
i"ll let you know,should have it by next wensday,ii"ll open it up and see, if all is good i"ll use diff wireing and handle bar switch,off 2002 will make it alittle easier,i figure i"ll have $350 to $450 in doing it, but still cheaper then newer atv ,plus i love to fab stuff up,do what no has done lol.mine only has 680 miles on it"s worth doing
@@ruyguy8888 well I'm having a snapping type noise going on in the back I have replaced both CV shafts and it was still there not even moving more then 5 feet from my garage so now I just pulled the diff and taking it to the guy I bought it from to inspect the diff hopefully find out what's going on before wheeler season thanks for the quick response also
wow this is about the worst backyard mechanic video ive seen why would you put the cover on your leg and get oil all over it. like come on use a work bench. o and by the way you didnt need to take off the front bumper or the a-arms off. just push them aside. i had my diff out and apart one hour! just kinda funney i thought
Hey there. In regards to your statements 1) Its backyard mechanics because I'm doing mechanics....in my backyard 2) I'm not afraid to get dirty 3) I have a small work bench, however its got another engine that was currently being worked on 4) I had taken the front bumper and A-arms off to make the work easy instead of struggling, I tend to work smart instead of hard. 5) Please make and edit a video with your methods or take the time to write up a report so that I may direct anyone with further questions to your channel as you seem to have a better procedure in place. Thanks for the view. Ruyguy8888
Many years later and your video still helps many folks:) Thank you for taking the time to make the video clear and easy to follow. Mooch ass grassy ass!
De nada! These repair videos on my channel perform much better than my regular ride videos. Glad that they are helpful to some folks.
Hey, thanks ruyguy8888, I've been having many pissed off moments, trying to find info on how to pull my '97 big bear, front diff out, to get the drive shaft out, and replace the universals. Everything on RUclips was rear diff, rear diff, rear diff, until I scrolled and scrolled, then found you. Your tutorial is AAWWWWWWSOME! Cheers Bro.
For the pinion pilot bearing use a slide hammer for pilot bearings. Pops them right out.
Great vid and very helpful! The service manual didn't go into much detail on how to replace the pinion seal so this helped a lot! Thanks!
docs.google.com/file/d/0B5V9wT7hn54Wa3FnUWRZbVFUUGpVaVpLMV9YTWE0ZWZmVHNF/edit
Like video, nice tear down. Like the info for the pinion gear bearing removal, You called it crown gear. That special yamaha bolt on the servo motor with the pin in it is called a security torx. You can buy them torx drivers with the hole in the center just ask for torx security bits.
very helpful vid! just so everyone knows, the same front diff is used in the Rhino. so this was very useful info for us SXS guys too! Thanks!
This is great. My diff locker is Stuck Stuck. I engaged it in a bind and it wont come out of it, so I'm going to pull the diff and see whats going on. Thank you for the break down.
Great to see this video is still helping people 10 years later. Sounds like your shift fork that goes inside the collar might be bent or the rail skipped a tooth and got out of time keeping the diff lock collar locked, if it was engaged in a bind.
@@ruyguy8888 Yeah, I'm really not sure, all I know is that I engaged diff lock while my front tires were in a bind stuck in a trench. Then I slowly revved up and I heard what sounded like grinding, then I let off, tried again, and it made that horrible grinding sound again. killed the bike and called a friend to pull me out with his tractor, and it didn't grind since, but now it is stuck in diff lock. somethings broken I'm affraid :(. Going to try to see into it this week, I'll keep you posted, and if not just reply to this comment and I might get back to you 👍
Great vids! I just got back into riding and bought an 02' 660 that is in dire need of some TLC to say least. Your vids will go a long way in knowing what to expect when I start tearing into to mine.
If you run into any trouble, let me know
Great video, thanks for doing this and for explaining what happens inside the diff. I always thought there was a magic elf that was inside it.
Cheers for that walkthrough mate its gave me a good idea of what im getting into
Brotha, thanks for the vid breakdown. Gives me confidence I can do it myself !
I figured it out, I was just being a little paranoid thank you so much awesome video btw very helpful !!!
Thanks for the preview of the job I have ahead of me.
sorry , the shaft i am talking about is the front drive shaft, not the axles
The bolt that you use a torque bit is a safety torque bit that has a hole in the center of the torque bit.
+Jared Balls Correct. I've since purchased a full set of the bits for future work.
Thanks for the video, used it to tear down my whole front end. Just noticed that my front oil seal is leaking around the front driveshaft. You mentioned in the vid that it was a bear to replace. How did you get that U-Joint off to access it? Did you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor?
you should be able to get a pick in there to remove the C clips on the u joint and start pounding out the cups to get access to the yoke nut. You probably will need to remove the CVT intake tube to get it out of the way first however. And for easier access Id suggest dropping your skid plates too.
This is all going by memory as i have a 700 grizzly now, however i believe that's all that was required. It's more visible from under the ATV.
how did you get the retaining clip out of the main bearing where the drive shaft goes into?
Does any body know what the torque specs are for the 6 bolts holding the spider gear together?
Nothing in the manual and says not to take apart (too late)!
This vid is THE BOMB ! Thanks Man !
thanks for you help man I appreciate you posting these videos !!!
Great video and you did a real through job with nothing left to chance. My boot on the front drive shaft is torn - right near where it joins to the differential. Went to Yamaha and they said the whole shaft (new) with new boots has to be done as the front boot can't be replaced by itself. It's cheaper to get the front drive shaft off of ebay rather then buy it from the yamaha. Some say one doesn't have to change the whole shaft out but I don\t know if this is true or not. I have been driving the 660 around for quite some time and just pressed greased into the area of where the boot is torn and I suspect it's time to do the repairs. With the change of the shaft is it necessary to do all the work that you have done to the front differential...? Or, is it ok to just change the shaft out with new boots. At this time I do not know if the seals or bearings were damaged from water and dirt. Your suggestions will be appreciated.
www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50039182f870021f60a0d584/drive-shaft
Unfortunately i cannot see any way around getting a new assembly.
All manufacturers like to do silly things like this instead of making sense.
In all honesty, if you have been driving the bike like this for some time on anything other than asphalt, you will already have done quite a bit of damage to the CV joints. this would be one of the few times id have to agree with the dealership and say go order a new assembly.
Mixing new , tacky grease with dirt, dust, rocks, sand, water, mud etc... will wear out your CV cage 10X faster than if it was clean.
Thank you very much for making this video. Extremely helpful.
Does the all ball kit have everything you need to do the rebuild you did? It's priced around 60 bucks . I have an 06 grizzly 660.
thanks for your previous answer, what weight gear oil do you use in the front diff and rear axle of a 2006 660 grizzly. is it necessary to use yamaha products?
No Robert, just a good quality 80W90 mineral oil. You can switch to a 140W synthetic, however its not needed as there are no clutches or pressure plates in the diffs
Hey, can you get pinion bearing out without splitting the diff? I have taken the clip/ring out but nothing moving.
I don't have this machine any more but i really don't think there is enough clerance between the pinion gear bolts and the pilot bearing in order to pull it out that way.
The cir-clip should be the only thing holding that bearing a crown gear in so i would suspenct you have corrosion between your case and bearing holing everything together.
Great Video!! What did you have to do with the Shims when you resembled? Or can you explain the process for the shims
thanks for posting the video. Is putting it back together as simple as slapping it all back in in the right order or do the gears need to be lined up in a certain manner?
Make sure you don't end up bending the shift fork. It will not effect the operation but it will throw the 4WD sensor of and it will read as if its in 4X4 all the time
Hi Doing A bearing and seal replace on 25th Yamaha ring do of your need to take the servo a part
love your vids im rebuilding a 2003 660 that i bought second hand and i have a question and was hopeing you could help i got rhino axles for a 2003 and they all fit right except the right rear axle the inner cup is different than the stock i took out super atv says it is right and they have a 2003 there with there axle in it but on mine it sticks out too far and the axle seal does not make contact wre it should my stock axles in the rear are different inner cups and it shoyuld be a 2003 rear diff but there axle just wont work have you any insite on this misstery did you say in one vid that yours was a 2002 i would like to see a close up of a rear axle if you had an old one lying around maybe or any info that might help thanks and if not no problem
q año.es esa moto porque veo q la flecha cardan con ese yugo otras no lo traen, llevan una flecha como las homocineticas??
Esto es 2002. Este fue el primer año en que fabricaron el 660 y usaron ejes cardán en lugar de cvt para el eje de transmisión delantero.
Años posteriores, Yamaha usó una configuración diferente.
Traducido en el traductor de Google
my 660 is a 2006 and it is has cv joints on both ends , will the front differential come forward enough to install a new one
I've not replaced one of those CV drive shafts before, however with that design you might just luck out and be able to unbolt the front diff and slide it forward enough to clear the splines.
Hola amigo como se llama l pieza que va del motor a la trasmicion el eje que va unido con el disco de freno esto es en la parte trasera
Hey great video!! I have a rhino 2009 and my differential works but 4WD does not work , any suggestions on what could be my problem , before I start taking it apart
+Nicholas Chiasson Are you hearing your servo motor kick in when you hit the 4wd button? if not, id first check the 2 amp fuse in your panel. if that is ok, id suggestion cleaning any grit that may have worked its way into the harness plug for the front diff.
if your servo motor engages and disengages ok, then you may have a broken or bent actuator pin on your rack gear inside your front diff.
Tamper torx? On the 4wd servo
Looking at your video, which was pretty good overall , I have to ask you to confirm these questions. Does the front drive shaft turn when the rear shaft is turning? If so that would mean your front differential crown gear is always turning. If this is the case then in 2 wheel drive ,,,,are both axles isolated from the turning of the crown gear?
Hey Glen.
The front driveshaft on these 660's are constantly turning from the middle drive gear output of the transmission to the input of the front differential.
Where you are getting your 2WD/4WD selection is from an electronically actuated servo on the side of the front differential. It engages the front Crown into the spider gear set and further more to lock up the front to 100%
ruclips.net/video/UKqYbFB03VY/видео.html Follow this link here to show a video explanation of the front engagement. it shows that your input Collar has three positions, Off, 2wd with slip front (ie..1wd) then full lock of the front diff for true 2wd on the front half.
Hope that helps some.
ruyguy8888 Sounds great. Thanks for the reply.
Hey, great video, thanks! I have a 2004 Grizzly 660 and my front left oil seal is shot on my front differential where the shaft goes in. I have a rebuild kit which includes a new oil seal, any idea on how to change the seal? Do I need to rip the differential apart or is there an easier way? I already have the axle pulled out.
If you can get your impact on the big nyloc nut on the front differential then the yoke will just pull out.
then you can just pop the old seal out and put the new one back in.
However you must ask yourself, are the pinion bearings going to last you a while yet, or should you pull the diff out now while you have everything half done. If it was the pinion bearings that have play, and are the cause of the seal falure, then i would take the extra time and pull the front diff.
Eh by, I bought a 2005 in rough shape and im breaking into her. looks like it needs a engine side seal as well and bearing.
Side seals are not so bad. If you have to split the case for a seal is when in gets bad.
Make sure you use good quality seals and bearings to do the job right the first time. Spend a bit more if you have to but you will save in the end. your time is also valuable.
hey man i followed your video step by step installed all that new bearings and seals from allballz, i thought everything was ok until i realized that the spider gears are really hard to turn would you know why i still have it in pieces im going to attack it tomorrow anything thoughts to why its doing this
The spider gears will be a bit stiff with no oil, however if they don't feel quite right, are you sure you placed all of the spacers (big thin washers) and shims in place and at the right location?
It doesn't take much for tolerance differences to bind up a set of gears.
Very useful! Thanks a lot.
can u tell me how many teeth are on pinion gear ,ring gear, looking at putting this diff in my 600,has to be 2002 because the front ujoint style ,if gearing is same i can make mounts,spline up some shafts, sadly 600 no diff lock
I think you will be SOL on that build. The gearing was changed after the revamp of the grizzly in 02. You went from A Solid rear Axle machine with a taller gear in the belt drive and lower in the diffs, to an independent rear with taller gearing in the diffs and lower in the belt drive.
“So thank you for that Yamaha”
Can i take out the differential to replace the yokes and u joints? or is there another easier way?
if you want both yokes replaced then you will have to remove everything from the front pinion spline to the diff. If its just the u joints you can losen up the front diff, pound out the c-clips and cups on the Joint and replace them with everything mostly in place. But for your own sanity, do yourself a favor and just remove everything ti clean and inspect it.
ok ty
Also when putting case back together did u use and sealant ?
Yes the all balls kit comes with everything you need, and no, you do not use any sealant. Its contained with O-rings
well got it today opened it up ,gear ratio is the same both 33 tooth ring 9 tooth pinion, but here is the problem,dont think it will work ,mine has 6 inch ring gear, 2002 has 5 1/2 inch ring gear, so even thou the gear ratio is same , i think they will spin at diffrent speed, because ring gear size,
Yeah that's not worth the risk.
Although thanks for taking the time to update me and the rest of the followers.
Thank you much for the video!
Great video bud
Great video!!!!
hi bro I have problem with my 2002 grizzly 660 ,my servo motor sometime is working sometimes no ,when I when I push the button I hear the relay click bad the motor is no turning
thanks for the reply, i think the gearing is the same, from what seen on google,mine has a 33 tooth ring gear, 9 tooth pinion,looking at pics, i think is the same count on 2002 i did find some pics ,hard to count 100%,but think it"s the same ,looking at your video, it looks like 9 tooth pinion,i know the ring gear is same tooth count 33. i got 1 coming, i"ll have to see, thanks again for reply
If everything works out for you, let me know. I help run a local forums here and that information would be great to know. Thanks. And let me know how you set up your switches for the 2wd/4wd and diff lock
Rounded out screwdrivers to not pit out the aluminum, Patience, and Beer.
i"ll let you know,should have it by next wensday,ii"ll open it up and see, if all is good i"ll use diff wireing and handle bar switch,off 2002 will make it alittle easier,i figure i"ll have $350 to $450 in doing it, but still cheaper then newer atv ,plus i love to fab stuff up,do what no has done lol.mine only has 680 miles on it"s worth doing
good job, any experience with A140E ?
what is it? thats actualy the model number of my Yamaha Synthesizer Keyboard
it a kind of transmission used in toyota camry
Peter Elgin Im actually not a mechanic by trade, so i wouldn't really know. Sorry about that.
Is this the same for the rear end
The rear end rebuild is slightly different but in fact simpler to do. There is only the crown and pinion gear to worry about.
@@ruyguy8888 well I'm having a snapping type noise going on in the back I have replaced both CV shafts and it was still there not even moving more then 5 feet from my garage so now I just pulled the diff and taking it to the guy I bought it from to inspect the diff hopefully find out what's going on before wheeler season thanks for the quick response also
nice video thanks
tamper proof torx bit
Sorry but it's A 2005 Yamaha Rino
wow this is about the worst backyard mechanic video ive seen
why would you put the cover on your leg and get oil all over it. like come on use a work bench. o and by the way you didnt need to take off the front bumper or the a-arms off. just push them aside. i had my diff out and apart one hour!
just kinda funney i thought
Hey there. In regards to your statements
1) Its backyard mechanics because I'm doing mechanics....in my backyard
2) I'm not afraid to get dirty
3) I have a small work bench, however its got another engine that was currently being worked on
4) I had taken the front bumper and A-arms off to make the work easy instead of struggling, I tend to work smart instead of hard.
5) Please make and edit a video with your methods or take the time to write up a report so that I may direct anyone with further questions to your channel as you seem to have a better procedure in place.
Thanks for the view.
Ruyguy8888