WILL IT START? 40'S BARN FIND CHEVY TRUCK! We Have No Idea What we’re doing!
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2022
- WILL IT START? 1940'S BARN FIND CHEVROLET CONVERSION TRUCK
▶️We struggle with a gasser here: • Will it start? ‘90’s T...
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Wiley, the coil is constant power (spark) and the camshaft turns the distributor causing point to open and close and that is how it knows when to spark. The condenser absorbs power (spark) when not firing and discharges when firing. Hope that helps. Hank, you OHM test across a coil. To see if it has power to it, probe positive side but ground it to anything grounded NOT the negative side of coil, thats for the points to signal spark. Therefore IF points are open, theres no ground to voltage test. P.S. the condensor is far more likely to be bad Hank. That lil bugger will stop spark all together if bad. Coils are rather tough if not overheated.
In my mechanic days, many many moons ago, the service truck had boxes of points and condensers. Seldom did a coil go bad. David you gave an excellent description of the process. I used to love the GM distributor points door. Even I could adjust them. 😂
My question is,, might the Capacitor be bad??
That david too
David told you the right answer
You need to change the petrol pump and call the coverage and the oil in which ticket and then bring up mechanic with us with you girls A woman mechanic Toyota hollows for the blue truck what's the And get a touch of the touch of the touch of the truck Peter boot
watching you guys work on a gas engine is painful but great effort love your videos
If there ever was a vehicle worthy of a Hank and Wiley do-over it would be this one. That dual wheeled antique truck would be worth some serious $$ if it was fixed up!
👍
Sorta miss the wider angle views and less back and forth switching in the videos. I’m
Probably the only one that cares but for
Me, it takes away from the personality and relaxing nature of watching u guys work together. I learn so much from how you work together naturally and interact when u overcome adversity… love you guys - thanks for all u do! I watch for the life lessons more than learning but you have a talent together for those underlying life lessons on how to treat your friends and family. That’s a special thing that your natural chemistry shows!!!! ☮️💜
Recapped 2. 16 on the the Gage it is either the points or condenser
29:00 the diaphragm is the very old style vacuum timing advance, the newer ones worked internally by moving only the points, the older style worked by moving the whole distributor similar to the advance timing on the Model T Fords
I suspect that soup can you see is a vacuum reserve for the wipers. Most vehicles back then had vacuum driven wipers. The main problem with them is that every time you step on the gas, the wipers would stop for a few seconds. Adding a reserve would help with that problem.
Don't forget many of the vehicles from that era came with 6 volt not 12 I was surprised to hear an electric fuel pump was actually used especially on a truck motor
The wipers say “dumb-guy” with each swipe otherwise
@@FedUpCanuck Almost everyone who kept these trucks converted them over to 12volt .
@@truck87654321 that's true but just to make sure it never hurts to find out especially with older vehicles
RUclips is making it harder and harder to watch with all the ads gettin in the way, killing the enjoyment. But hangin in there cause I love you guys. God Bless Y'all!
The spark is created by the points interrupting the neutral side of the coil when the coils power is interrupted by the points opening is when the coil produces the high voltage for the spark plugs
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That can is a vacuum storage canister. Helps the vacuum operated wipers work.
The coil produces a spark when the power is taken away. It's a collapse of the energizing of the secondary winding in the coil that produces a spark. Put 12v to the coil and simply take the negative lead and ground it for a split second. When you take it off ground, the coil should produce spark.
Once you establish that you have a good coil, you need to make sure your points are opening and closing. The timing of the points opening needs to coincide with the piston being at nearly top dead center. The points opening and being timed with the pistons is how it "knows" when to spark.
hank make sure the points and igniter are clean. sand paper or the back of the match book will clean the points. they also have to be set usually i think around 45,000ths.
Now that’s a cool ole rig! I’m sure it won’t take much to get her to fire to life 👌
😁👍
Run direct power to a ballast resistor and then to the coil positive side
You guys did fine, just missed a couple things gas engines need, I would replace points, ohm out the coil to see if it’s good and if anything hot wire the coil to the battery, for diesels boys y’all did amazing!
I agree with David check the condenser inside the distributer make sure the points and coil wire are good !!! It's not difficult to check the condenser the coil is actually like a capacitor !!! The condenser is the little round tubular thing with a wire going to your points !!!
you know hank there needs to be a part two to this one God bless
Hey Hank here's a deal on the carburetor leak. The thing that you're pointing to on the carb is the throttle shaft these carbs were notorious for the shaft wearing the body of the carb and leaking around them it's not a major deal my Chevy Nova does the same thing it's a common problem the throttle shaft and bushing is just worn. If it's leaking really bad it should still run but would need to be repaired eventually. Where the fuel line screws into the carburetor that big nut screws out as well and there is a ceramic filter in it
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My 1941 had a brass filter and I believe they were common.
The rib cage style grille was used in 39 and 40 on the 1/2 ton trucks. I believe at that time Chevrolet was known for their larger truck styling following the 1/2 ton by a year or two. I would guess it's between a 40 and 42
Points and condenser first, coil second.
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On old stuff like this I know has sat a good while, my first go to is always the points. They always seem to need cleaning if it hasn't ran in a long time.
Hi guys,
If you put 12v to the coil, and take the center wire close to a metallic ground, open and close the points manually. You should see spark from the coil wire to ground.
Also, the vacuum under the distributor adjusted the timing.
One thing as a helping idea...if/when you pour gas down into a carburetor on something that has sat for a long time, it is a good idea to use a 2 cycle mix of gas/oil to help lubricate the rings and top end of the motor when cranking over...helps until the engine can develop enough oil pressure.
Can't wait to see the next part...
Vacuum advance under the coil,
Very good idea using the gas oil mix! Please no more ether.., You can also put a few drops of oil in each cylinder under the spark plugs.
Make sure the points open and close , before the coil will discharge !
Other people will know more than me, but I'd clean all the contacts in the distributor cap and the points. The condenser may even need to be replaced. (The tiny cylinder in the distributor) and see how that does. I'm not sure about the carburetor. I'm assuming it needs a gasket (RTV works too). And see how that works. Thanks for sharing guys! God bless!
I believe that pull cable is for the distributor. It should move it! If so you will need to play with it to get her to fire up! After you get power going through the coil and points!
With the ignition on, if you ground the center wire out of the coil, you should get a spark. If you pull a spark plug wire and hold it near a ground, you should get the spark as it turns over.
Diesel guys attempting to work on gas engines might be the funnest video i have seen in awhile.
The "coffee can" is possibly the reservoir for the vacuum operated windscreen wipers.
It sure is.
It could have vacuum wipers. Pull a plug out or use a known good plug and ground it on the head to see if you have fire if you have fire poor fuel down the top of the carb it should at least fire off if it won't stay running. If you don't have fire the points could be stuck together or just really dirty. I would say that is probably a 235 motor.
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David explains it very well how it works. The High Voltage jumps the tiny gap from the rotor in the distributor to the output wires to the spark plugs. Put your meter on the Ohms scale to check the coil for continuity. There could be a high-power series resistor in the feed wire to the coil. Vehicles of this vintage may have originally had a 6 Volts system. The speed of the starter sounds good, and it is most likely a 12 Volts system or got converted at some stage.
Remove and clean the carburetor, Clean all jets inside the carburetor, see if the float valve pin is stopping the petrol flow from the tank. Check if the float is not having liquid inside and is floating on petrol. Replace all gaskets of carburetor. Reassemble and try one more time. Hope there is spark on every spark plug all the time of cranking. Remove one spark plug pour 5 drops of petrol in one cylinder then put the spark plug and start cranking.
Hey buddy good to see y'all good luck with the old truck see you soon
What a cool truck! I definitely agree with some of the previous commenters that y'all need a do-over on this one. I see many comments below about points, the coil, etc., and with that, I bet y'all would nail it next time. BTW, just ordered some Olights with your link as Christmas presents. :)
I think the real winner here is that roof!
Dude….it’s like we have never even seen an engine! 😂😂 it was painful to film!
You hit it on the head right at the end Hank, you need fuel, air, compression & spark and that engine was never going to start without spark.
I suggest you thoroughly clean the points, making sure the points are off cam, ie: not open. (where the points contact the distributor cam in the centre, they need to be on a low spot).
When you have cleaned them and with the ignition on, give the points a gentle flick, you should see a 12v spark across the points, if you dont, you ain't getting a power signal to your coil.
Once you get that side of it sorted, and with the (way too much gas you poured down that carb🤣), she'll fire up, I betcha👍👍
Yes Wiley you can along with verifying the VIN code plate on the dashboard if there is one riveted on to it.& Door jambs to.
That was a good choice saying that about checking the points that's one of the main things for it to get spark
i recommend watching videos from Junkyard Digs, Kevin knows gasoline engines really well. You can test the coil by putting a hot wire to the positive terminal, and jumping to a good ground (negative) on the frame or engine, touching a wire to ground should make a spark at the main wire from the top of the coil, doing the job of the points. You probably need to clean the points better.
Check all the wiring going from inside of the cab.& Out to those points. Check for A resistor going to the coil as well to. Cause if it's bad it will not let power flow through to the distributor.& Coil.,or check for A blown linkable fuse on the firewall of that truck to. Cause it maybe bad to.
Thanks for another great video.
It was interesting and enjoyable.
Sorry you did not get it running. Hopefully someone will have the answers for you on gas engines
Thanks for your efforts.
You all take care and be safe.
Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for everything.
The Iowa farm boy.
1939 is the only model year that matches this truck. Also, it has a newer Chevy engine, 235/262/292 design. The engine came out in '53 in Chevys with powerglide transmissions and were often referred to as Powerglide engines because the engines in standard transmission cars were still the old style 216 with oil slingers on the rods and adjustable lifters, where these engines had full pressure oil systems and hydraulic lifters.
The 216 had babbitted bearings and dippers on the rods.
Engine is 53/54. Clue is old style water pump, 55 and later had a different style pump.
You grab hold of that coil wire while it cranking it will be better than cup of coffee 😆 the canister looks like a vacuum canister.
Awesome worth some money
It is the vacuum canister for the brake booster Wiley your right about that part.& It controls your other vacuum for your other vacuum controlled parts on that truck to as well to guys.
Taking distributor cap off remove the rotor take a flathead screwdriver between the point Breakers and open and shut the points if the coil is good and getting good connection the wire will spark it's not a fuel issue it would have fired with the first shot of starting fluid you can also run a direct wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil
Exactly, has to b e spark problem, not fuel.
Some things to know about gas powered vehicles built before 1954: they originally were built to run on 6 volts. The starter will crank on 12 volts but you have to make sure the rest of the system is running on 6. Your coil might handle 12 volt for a short time but the rest of the system will burn up. To see if it's been converted to 12 volt, look at the data plate on the generator or regulator to see if it says 12 volt anywhere. Also, many pre-1954 vehicles had positive ground rather than negative ground. One way to check is if the positive side of the ignition coil wire goes to the distributor and negative comes from firewall. This may not help though if someone who didn't know crossed the wires already before you got there. Most likely, though, this has negative ground because GM generally made GMC truck positive ground and Chevrolet truck negative ground. The engine most likely is a 216. There may not be an oil filter as the oil system had no pump but a scoop system to fling oil onto the moving parts. You gotta keep the oil clean if that's so. There should be hydraulic brakes with mechanical clutch. Nice old truck. It's possible that it dates to the late 1930's even. In 1941 Chevy changed design to half horizontal grill and bottom half vertical. Great find!
It's a Early 40's, check for spark, lever on shifter is for the 2 speed rear differential, bottom of distributor has a vacuum advance for timing, rotor needs to point at number 1 cylinder when it is on the compression stroke. Hope info helps
The lever on the shifter is a reverse gear lock out. The standard GM 4 speed had reverse towards the driver and back. You could shift into reverse when downshifting accidentally if the lockout was broken. I owned a '48 with that same transmission.
Hopefully, the truck has been converted to 12 volts (notice the ballast resistor on the fire wall) If not, you possibly burned out most of the lights. On cars/trucks built with "butterfly" hoods, there is a place where the rear corner of the side panel can rest on the cowl to hold it up. Trailer brakes were probably vacuum, and controlled by the lever on the right side of the steering column.
My Chev. '39 4dr. Master Deluxe, had a similar can arrangement. As I recall the Motors Manual said that it was for the vacuum assist shift mechanism. Wasn't connected when I got it in the mid 60's so I left it like that. Narragansett Bay
Cool looking old truck. Its a beauty. It turns over really fast. Every rig should have a good gas tank. Boat tanks are good for first starts.
Turning over really easy could also indicate compression issues maybe stuck rings
It’s likely a 6v starter being fed 12v, that makes them crank really fast… see it a lot with older farm tractors
@@danielrobey1759 I like the old beasts and grew up in the muscle car era. So much easier to work on without smog control or electronics
@@FedUpCanuck True and a good starter too.
@@danielrobey1759 Nice.
It has A shaft that has A cammed gear that works off of the oil pump gear inside of the camshaft gear. When the engine rotates.& Moves that camshaft it sparks from the points distributor.& Then to the coil I'd check the power wire feed into the points distributor.& Going out to the coil. Yes I'd clean those points with A points file.& Bring A coil along that way you'll have all of your parts on hand the first time.& I'd get A new set of points to just to be on the safe side of things. Remember to set those points top dead center at 00.20 is the gap depth setting for those points to.
Its your vacuum advance hooked up at the bottom of distributor. Those were fine trucks in the day. 6,000 lbs payload. That 5th wheel is a farm cradle to pull hay wagons and such. 3 speed trans with overdrive (lever on the stick shift).
Very awesome old Chevy truck! Hope you get it started!
I haven't yelled so loud at the TV in a very long time! I loved the video but I could have gotten it to fire off in about ten minutes, I ain't saying it would run perfectly but it would have fired off and I would know what the next thing to do would be from there. You guys are a hoot! I have had the best time watching this! I don't know crap about diesels so you two have taught me mountains in that respect but gassers, well, let's just say somebody needs to take a course or have Wes or another RUclipsr on speed dial!! lol. Take care!
Nice truck. Looks pretty straight. Doesn't look like there's much rust. Great for resto rod makeover.
Another way to check for spark, if you're like my grandpa was, pull one of the plug wires grab the end of the wire where it connects to the plug and ground yourself, if your eye starts twitching you know it's good, lol, but on a serious note if you take one of the plug wires and get a light tester, can be bought at any auto parts store and cheap, put the clip on something to ground it and stick the tip of the light tester in the plug wire at the plug end, if any fire it should light up
Need to pull the plugs to check condition and check for spark.
Check to see if there's power to the coil
Check points for gap, condition and spark.
If you had spark, it should have fired off on your super juice.
Start at the coil with switch on. Ground your voltmeter to the engine and put your red lead on the positive side of the coil to see if you have 12 volts. Then put your red lead on the negative side of the coil to see if you have power from the coil to the points.
Next step, get one of Gina's emery boards and clean the corrosion off the points.
If you have power going in AND out of the coil, the coil is good. It might be possible you need a set of points and condenser if cleaning doesn't work and the coil has power.
If you clean the points and you're able to get spark at the points by cranking it over or even flicking them open and shut manually, then you should have fire at the plugs. But since the carb is flooding, make sure you disconnect the power to the fuel pump before checking for spark while cranking it over without a plug in
,the resivor on floor board probably the master cylinder for brakes the flipper on shifter is used to put in reverse. And the hoses behind cab might lines for vacume trailer breaks. The pullout thing on top by sunvisor might be how you turn on windshield wipers they were vacume and when you went up hill pushing on throttle they would stop because the lack of vacume. My grampa had a pickup with the same body style and I think it was from the 1940 timeline thank you Tom from Nebraska
The points must be clean before the coil will fire clean the points
Good put the rotor back in
Ha Ha You guys are so funny! That "coffee can" is a home made vacume service/storage canister for the wipers so they don't slow down on a hill, luv you guys, keep on a trickin!
I love you guys video's. Man--what a crazy world you guys have found. Keep the video's coming!
If ever up for sale, would be an interested party as it sits. FYI, I would put in new points, cap, condenser, wires and plugs. There are rebuild kits for the carb and they are simple to do. Good luck and want to see a follow up on this one.
It’s for sale. Email me if you’re interested
Send me your email address and I'll send you mine. Where's it located?
Hank at hamiltonville farm dot com… it’s in Andalusia Alabama
Pull one of. The spark plug wires hold it about 1/8 inch from a good ground. Try to start if you see a spark coil and points good. If not check points, condenser, and coil.
gorgeous old rig, love those inlines!!!
The points opening and closing is what sparks the coil. Clean points contacts and make sure the points are opening and closing. Should have about a .016 gap on distributor cam peak.
Nice ole trk glad its still around ty guys
Love that old truck. Hate that you couldn't get it started. Enjoyed the video Hank and Wiley.
Thank you sir
@@HamiltonvilleFarm I have no doubt you can get it running, long as that little engine has good compression you can get the spark and fuel to it!
1938-39 judging from the primitive 5th wheel and head light placement. The 40s trucks had headlights on the fenders and more ornamentation up front. I can remember these old trucks being used in salvage yards and left for dead in fields and barn lots.. Or overgrown in tree lines. My cousin has my uncle's 1947 two ton. Rebuilt the driveline and engine. It set for 30yrs because of a bad clutch and burnt valves. And way way way to many miles.
My 1941 had lights on the fenders.
Hank, there was no fuel in the carby when you took off the top so the filter could be blocked, but you poured enough fuel down the carby to get the motor firing.
Wiley, when the rotor in the distributor turns it directs the high tension voltage from the coil to each plug in turn.
With the ignition turned on, there should a spark at the points when you open and close them. When you turn on the ignition there should be 12 volts on one of the coil terminals.
This was painful to watch. There was probably compression. The starter fluid gives it fuel. With spark it should fire. The points will corrode over time. Emery paper across the points will remove it. Sometimes even a matchbook cover will do the trick
@@stevelaugen705, It was pretty tough to watch from my house too. You mentioned the matchbook for wiping thru the points, I learned that a dollar bill works pretty good too as a last resort. A crisp bill works better than a worn out dollar bill. The fibers of the cloth of a bill help pull the carbon off of the contact surfaces to help continuity. Grandpa always made me clean points with alcohol if I ever touched them with my fingers, told me that the oil in my fingers would kill continuity between the points. I learned about the dollar bill on my old Harley panhead when it started gettin hard to start or cutting out.
Enough fuel down its throat to fire up half the motors in the 🇺🇸 great content as usual.
This was funny. Wiley, you were born in the gas engine years but... it's a 6 volt system; you have to clean the points; and most of those were positive ground. Unless all the lights have been switched to 12 volts, say goodbye to the headlights😂
Stay with what you know
Lol. I hear ya
That can is a vacuum canister old style. Leaking at the carb shaft . Shaft is worn. Not getting any fire. Coil may be bad. Test both sides of the coil. Switch on .Gas and fire, it will run. Check resistor on the firewall.
Chk the points for crud,and chk the coil for voltage
Clean the points and set the gap. The electric pump probably produces more pressure than what the needle and seat can stop and I would venture to bet they’re stuck. These trucks start easy as long as they get spark. Pull the plugs and set those gaps also. .030” is a good place to start on the plugs and .018 is a good place to start on the points.
that plunger is the vacum advance for the timing when it starts. plus you should have put some gas down the carb as the needle and seat is probably stuck.and the needle is on top of the float pointed towards where the fuel comes in from the tank.
I thank 43 and the floats are metal in those carbs love ur videos keep them coming please
Another awesome video Hank and Wiley appreciate the channel Hank 👍
Hi, fellas. Good video. My advice is to get a hold of Derek at Vice Grip Garage. He has done alot of chevys, and has an old c50 at his rural lodge property he got running.
The coil has a positive and negative post. Put power to the positive post and negative goes to the breaker points that you were trying to clean. When the are closed that loads the coil and when the points open the coil will discharge threw the main lead going to the distributor threw the rotor to the proper spark plug!
It’s part of the adventure. Good luck 👍🏻
On gasoline engines the priority is spark at the plug gaps correct timing helps after that it’s very forgiving I have had an engine engine fire up with A squirt of fuel no carburetor or intake manifold didn’t work great or long but proved it was worth putting more time into
That's a very cool truck I hope you guys can get it running
You are missing a few tricks both with the carb and the ignition.
One of my favourite carb tricks was to hold your hand over the inlet, then crank over, if your hand gets wet with petrol then you know the fuel is going through the jets. That worked with my Commer Van which had water in the tank, the water drops blocked the jets, and my suction pulled the drops of water through the jets, and we continued on our way..
The points need to be taken out and ground to a flat surface, to achieve the best possible spark. Don't grind them too much though, as the platinum contacts are only about 2mm thick.
Best of luck, hope it runs again soon.
Awesome old rig! I'm guessing the plugged off hose under the dash went to the vacuum hand control for the trailer brake ... possibly
There’s a high point under the rotor button the distributor turns . When the high part of that little cam comes around to the points they open to about .015 then close . This causes a spark to go to the plug .
Guys. Change the HT leads, spark plugs, contact points & rotor arm all for new parts. Should cost about £50 ($60) or less. Take the carburettor off, take it apart and clean it.
Doing that should make it start. Coils fine.
Vacuum over hydraulic brakes is what you have there. That what they used on semis before air brakes. That's about a 3500 series truck. Those lines under the dash probably went to a hand valve to operate the trailer brakes.❤🐘🇺🇸Do you see a ballast resistor on the firewall or fender well?
On these engines always carry a nail file to file the points and under the air cleaner there is a pipe that sticks up out of the carb you can fill the fuel bowl through it makes things a little easier and safer you can spin the motor over with the distributor cap off to see if it is firing but I am not a mechanic you guys be safe love your channel
you should have tried a spark plug laying against the block to check for spark, or stick a screw driver between the points if they are wide open or open and close them. to check for spark also the condenser in by the points could also be bad.
Pro tip on the carb take a bread tie and get the wire out of it and run it threw the jets to clean them very important easy first step to get a gas motor running a small tip cleaner works well to.
It has to crank to get pulsing voltage to the 12v input of the coil . The engine cam turns the points on-off and with timing, fires the pulse to the coil the coil fires a big voltage to the distributor (top part) and drives the plugs as the cam cranks the points.
Replace the wires and the spark power is fed from the battery wire connected at the starter, as for the carburetor you need to rebuild it with new seals
Jumper wire from positive from battery to positive on coil. Remove cap on distributor spin engine over make sure points are opening. Sand the points if they are indeed opening sand contacts in the cap and the contract on rotor button. Put it back together and fire it up.. if the points are not opening when you spin it over you will have to adjust them very easy process. But I'm sure if you put a 12v jump wire from battery to coil and sand the points you will have spark. There also might be a toggle switch in the cab that the owner installed to provide the power to the coil as well.
Hank and Wally and your family Happy Thanksgiving and great putting out great videos this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless and have a great day and please stay safe
Good job and God bless yall
I think It's A 1937-38 model grain truck converted to tow rig. Dude WOW what A find. NICE!!! Those mite be negative ground but I am not sure myself. That carb looks good. The points on those distributors corrode quickly but are easy to set. Also check the resistor on the firewall. If that Is bad It won't start. If you file the points good you may get some spark then she will run. The cap looks weathered so I am betting both the cap and points need cleaning. Man I wish I were there to help you both. Dang nice video guys.
According to the grill on this truck....it is a 1940 truck. In '41 the grill on the trucks changed quite a bit and were the same thru '47. Also....the truck would have been 6 volt originally, so obviously they did the 12 volt conversion at some point. And simple rule of thumb with and gas motor....if you're putting ether in it and you don't get any pop....your first problem is no spark. You may still have fuel side issues.....but if you have spark the ether will at least pop. No pop.....no spark.
The fuel coming out of throttle body is because the fuel mixture screw is missing by the looks of it, check spark by removing No.1 sparkplug and leaving connected to lead, turn engine over to see if there is a spark across plug gap!
You brought back lots of great memories talking about drinking Rip Its while deployed.....I consumed MANY of them.
Lol
Thumbs up from cape Town south Africa. Love your content bro
If the light lens on the front & back haven't been replaced with different years it's most likely possible to identify that truck by those to also along with the other information needed to verify it all as one vehicle year make.& Model of truck that is.
that button on shifter is hi and low range for differential, that plunger on the distributor is the vac advance