I am 63 years old, I have two cars, a 1985 BMW 735i and a 2010 Subaru Forester Touring 5spd manual, both purchased new from dealers. At "break in period", in both cases, for the first 3000KM I have changed oil and filter every 1000KM then at 5000KM and from then on religiously every 5000KM (stick with one brand of oil through out the life of your car, I happen to use Casterol and Quaker State, never ever use dealer oil, take your own oil with you to the dealer or mechanic). I drop all liquids, and I mean all liquids, from front to back every 50,000KM and replaced the radiator on each car every 100,000KM with an original. The BMW has 830,000KM and the Subaru has 451,000KM, needless to say neither has ever broken down and neither has ever had the engine or transmission opened for repairs (except for timing belt) I continue to use both cars for everyday use and on very long journeys. This sort of maintenance is considered "over doing it" if you lease cars, I do not. Be vigilant on inspecting cleaning/replacing sensors, valves, pipes, belts, plugs, wires and distributor cap and your car will last a life time, absolutely hassle free. Lastly, wax the exterior of your car once every two months. Happy miles all.
The engineer of the Nissan GT-R was on another RUclips video stating(through his interpreter), that if you want you car to last 500,000 or more you need to change the oil every 3000 miles, and change the oil filter every 6000 miles. ESPECIALLY on a turbocharged engine. He also stated eventhough synthetic oil is superior to regular oil, it's not that much better. So, he said, if you want to save money you can use regular oil because it's being changed so often.
I watched that guy too, and although I'm a nobody, but I love and care for my cars, I've always thought and practiced exactly what he said. Well, he actually said it in Japanese, but that other guy did a great job translating. Nice to find out I've been right all along.
I still follow the old 3K/3-month interval. Overkill? Perhaps, but it's my vehicle and I don't mind spending the money for fresh oil/filter that often.
Look up New York taxis test oils. You will find there is no more wear on engines with less expensive oils than the expensive oils. Best oil is clean oil. Oil takes in gas water carbon acids while driving thousands of miles. Best insurance for your car/truck is clean oil. A cheap insurance for your engine.
I've heard about New York taxi test. Fleet tests are the only real world way to prove or disprove mechanical theories related to maintenance. One conclusion knowing about this fleet test led me to is that there is no point in paying more for products with specifications that you will not, in fact, utilize. For example, why do I need to worry about the flow rate of different oils at -40? It never gets below the mid-20s in any place I have lived in the last 40 years, except one, where it hit the teens a couple of times every year. A premium oil filter has no value if you change your oil every 3000 miles or less. My thought is, there is no substitute for clean oil. Used oil contains contaminants that an oil filter is not designed to remove and no filter can removes. The claim made by the manufacturers of premium oils like Royal Purple and Amsoil is only that their products neutralize these contaminants better than cheaper synthetics or conventional oil. Maybe they do, but draining your oil and replacing it with clean oil means that they are not there in the first place in the concentration high mileage creates. Myself, I own a Japanese car where 5W-30 conventional was original oil. I use either that or 10W-30 and change it every 3000 miles or less. I may switch to semi-synthetic since conventional is becoming less available, but I am only going increase my change interval by 500 miles. Right now, 2500 miles is my preferred interval. With semi-synthetic, I'll make it 3000 miles.
@Peter Angles mayb ur right mayb ur not, long reply was fine, tagging some1's height, weight, skin color, length of reply, mayb not the survey going on here. Short, over short oil changes vs drive it into ground, cheap vs dear oil, came with Model T's when the masses could afford. Nothing new to see here. Stay safe stil in the covid bubble.
The recommended oil change interval on our 2020 Corolla is 10,000 miles. I've been doing it every 5,000. I've also switched to synthetic for our older 2008 Corolla and our daughters 2007 Corolla and change oil every 5k. Now that I'm retired I need to change the oil on the 2008 annually because it is not driven much. Bottom line oil and oil filters are cheap, engine rebuild not so much. This is one of the few DIY maintenance jobs I'm still able to do other then replacing bulbs.
Watch what The Car Care Nut has to say about the Infamous Toyota oil burning. Change that oil at 5k no matter what and those rings won’t start sticking because they were forced to use too light a tension oil control rings. Once they start sticking you only have a chance to bring it to a halt so always do 5 K no matter what some captured engineer or especially some government says. To the uninitiated reading this all car companies use these barely adequate rings for a long time now so use a good synthetic oil and change it at 5k. Oil is cheat at Wallymart engines aren’t. Speaking of oil do change the Tranny oil at specified times , usually 60k. That goes double for those CVT trannies!!! Those are all but guaranteed to grenade $6,000+ if you keep them long term and don’t change that oil . You better use EXACTLY what the dealer sells💸too these days for tranny oil.
Look very closely at the fine print for that 10k interval, it is full of exceptions which many (most?) will disqualify - short tripping being the most common.
Why? Do you think your corolla engine is going to die, before the rest of the car does? That engine will probably be the last thing to go, even if you did 15K mile changes. Just a waste of money to change synthetic oil sooner than recommended.
@@drizler I believe he states 5k miles or 6 mos, whichever comes first....so in the OP's post I would do the oil change every 6 months even if he doesn't hit the mileage requirement.
It's interesting, the recommended oil change interval on my Toyota Prius is 5,000 miles. I've changed it regularly for the last 280,000 miles, and the engine still uses less than a quart of oil between changes. With that low oil consumption, I'm still running my original catalytic converter. I think 5,000 miles is a good compromise between maintenance cost, and longevity. Another thing...Don't skimp on the AIR filter. As important as it is to keep the oil clean, it's equally important to keep the intake air clean! (whether gasoline or diesel)
Good! See Cats don't just fail, they fail because something ahead of it, (engine) has something wrong. Either bad oil maint, not doing plugs as needed, etc.
@@a3300000 Air filters do not become less efficient when they get dirty. On the contrary, they become more so. The problem with excessively dirty air filters is that they reduce the flow of air into the engine, making the engine less efficient, but that doesn't produce more engine wear directly the way asperities do in dirty oil. The additional wear caused by an excessively dirty air filter is due to the engine "working" harder to produce the same power, which is a more subtle form of wear.
The oil change interval is, in large part, dependent upon the vehicle driving mode. I take many road trips where my vehicle is in a steady, highway speed state. The strain upon the vehicle is about the lowest it can experience, therefore, the oil change interval will not be the same as another identical vehicle that rarely leaves the region and is subjected to a lot of stop-and-go driving, especially in colder months and winter.
That's why 5k on full synthetic is recommended. Most people are driving in the city and on commute in stop and go traffic. When the manual states 10k/1 year, that's under normal highway conditions. Cut that in half for severe service. and even less if you're idling a lot.
Gr8 advice.Owning a vehicle is like owning a home.They both require routine maintenance & inspections. If you're one of those ppl who neglect or ignore that responsibility then you will also be one of those that learn things through the difficult and expensive method.I do my oil changes,every 6 months or 3,000 miles.Transmission every 3yrs or 50,000 miles. Differential fluid every 50,000 miles, transfer case the same,brake fluid every 5yrs or 50,000 miles,Coolant every 5yrs.Belts and hoses every 7 yrs.Maintainence is absolutely key to vehicle longevity. And as expensive as they are its foolish not to take care of them.Like the old saying goes,,,,,,you can pay a little now or alot later.Either way you're gonna pay.Thanks for the video.
5 years on brake fluid? That’s a bit too long in my book. I do 2-3 years as the brake fluid is hydroscopic, i.e. absorbs moisture, so best to replace it frequently no matter the mileage so the brake system components resist corrosion better.
Good reply. I’ve learned to change brake fluid every 30k miles because it’s hydroscopic. It absorbs water molecules from humid air and the water can cause corrosion on metal connectors.
Totally agree. 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am . Bought new. 3000 mile oil changes. Castrol GTX 10 30. Engine has never been touched. Runs and sounds like new. I always change oil this way, and in 45 years of driving, and putting well over 200.000 miles on many cars, v8s v6s, and 4 cylinders, I have never had any engine issues. Transmissions, yes. Engines, never.
If you follow the 7500-12k mile oil change interval the engines will be out of warranty before you have any major issues and manufacturers are off the hook, they know exactly what they're doing.
@Peter Angles Obviously you have to keep the crankcase full. It’s not an oil related failure if there is none. All engines consume oil and need top off.
My 2008 civic says otherwise at 242,000 miles and counting. I'm a rough driver and used it for amazon delivery and I was extremely hard on it with that. It's holding up with no problems. I've gone as far as 9,000 miles without changing oil.
Also why some dealers will say your transmission fluid never needs to be checked or changed. "It's a sealed unit." Meaning no dipstick. But it should be changed, thankfully I figured this out before I went too far past 70k
@@andrewk8636 yeah it’s really going to come down to each individual persons driving style. That’s why I say 5000 is a safe bet for most people. Some people who are a little more astute and would like to pay attention and remember their driving habits over a period or probably find a stretch it out. i’d like to go between 5000 and 8000 for my interval and I’ve seen the oil look very rough at 5K and I’ve seen it look pretty good at it K doing high miles in a short time span with the engine always coming to operating temperature and staying there is significantly better than the alternative
I live in Jamaica and most of the times we buy used from Japan. We tend to keep our vehicles longer so typically we do our oil changes every 4,000 to 6,000 miles. So I agree with you, car manufacturers want you to buy a new car as often as possible.
Mark Lester, that sounds like the best option, considering the price of new cars. The Japanese cars tend to hold up better, and longer…but, the maintenance must be kept up on a regular basis. I have had Toyotas and Hondas reach over 300K miles with just basic maintenance.
@@MyWillypillyCold areas are usually worse for corrosion because the salt used on the roads in the winter creates a far stronger brine on your underbody than any sea spray ever can.
The only thing car manufacturers are concerned about is getting the vehicle to last long enough to get out of warranty. If you plan on keeping your vehicle then stick to 3-5k oil change intervals and transmission 30-45k.
Transmissions 30k or 15k if CVT. I would not go higher than that. The CVT manual states 60k. 60k is usually when they die and require a $6k repair , many cases it's even less.
I think not all manufacturers are the same. Ford & GM union run shops, sure, they couldn't care less about long term quality. I believe the Japanese & perhaps Koreans too, are different. They still take pride in the quality of their work & it shows in long-term reliability of their vehicles.
Thank You for your honesty. Walking away without some sort of confusion and having solid information is so rare and priceless these days. I buy my vehicles for their lifetime and success with this long haul approach requires attention to the drive train. I really love the 100000 mile investment sequence you explained so well Thank You Sir......
True, but these longer intervals are likely not to effect engine longevity until beyond the warranty period. The "lifetime" transmission fluid is a good example. No tranny fluid change until 100K on those trannys, the damage is done and you are now out of warranty.
@@gpaje Not really, for example in the Prius transaxle, which is just a set of planetary gear sets with 2 electric motors, the fluid in there is just to lubricate these gears, the electric motors and cool them down, and there are Priuses with over 200,000 and even 300,000 miles with still the original transaxle fluid and no issues.
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Not really? I think that applies to the majority of the cars out there, you mentioned the Prius, how many other cars fall into that category versus traditional transmissions?
It was 3,000 when I first started driving. I do 5k intervals now. Mobile 1 and OEM filters have worked well for me. Back in the day we used 10w30, then 5w30, now they want me to use 0w20 under the guise that tolerances are too tight for the thicker oil. They run the thinner oil to achieve .3 more mpg rating. The turbos and all that are just to chase fuel economy.
I use 5w30 now on my old 2 valve 5.4 which was originally recommended. Then they changed to recommending 5w20 for the same engine. Cafe standards. However newer cars and engines are definitely more complex and so have tigger clearances etc.
Sorry, we don't. UK speedometers and road signs are in MPH. Even fuel usage us neasured in MPG in the UK. Weights and measurements are in both imperial and metric. Metric is the official way for weights, but many people of a certain age will still weigh in imperial. I am of an age where I can take measurements in centimetres or inches. It is a strange mix in the UK for sure. If you had said that continental Europe used kilometres for vehicle speedometers, trip meters, road signs etc. then you would have been correct.
Before becoming a shop teacher, I spent 7 years as a diesel boat mechanic. That whole time, we never had an engine with problems because the oil was too clean, and changed too frequently. All my 5th gen Ram 1500 ever sees is Mobil 1, and a new NAPA (WIX) Platinum filter every 6,000 miles.
boats don't have oil drain plugs. Service places strip bolts, damage filter housings, smear oil all over your battery.. spill oil ..happens a lot the more service the more likely it'll happen to you.. Those poor kids ! you're putting them on the wrong path with that type of talk !
I just bought one of the last Ecodiesels (2023 Ram) and I am preparing to do it's first oil change today with Mopar oil filter and Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro-Spec. I plan on doing it again at 3k, 5k and every 5k afterwards. My friend who used to restore cars says this is extreme but neither he (nor I) have ever owned a diesel. In your opinion, is this too much? Thanks!
@gardnerberry113 I wouldn't think so, however be sure that the eurospec oil is up to API standards that MOPAR wants. There are differences, while I'm not sure about the 15-40, I have been toldd that the euro spec 0-40 specified in the 2500 6.4 Hemi is not the same as the API certified oil. At the very least, it'll cover bases for warranty purposes.
I like the interview with the gtr engine builder in Japan. He was OK with using cheap oil even but he wanted you to change your oil every 3000 to make sure it stays clean
I drive a 1.8l Japanese engine with 400,000km approaching and I always use synthetic oil pushing 12-14000 km with OEM filters(they're cheap filters and are rated at 16,000km). The engine is strong as ever and I think I can push these oils more but due to high mileage I rather not risk it. I would say its besides mileage, its important to use your professional judgement when checking the usability of the oil.
@@mdev8846 The oil change interval is more important that the brand and model. You can use the cheapest oil as long as the back says it meets the oil standards it will be good. If you plan on keeping your car as long as possible(which is the smart thing to do), I would change it every 3,000 miles with the cheapest oil you can find, and the filter every 6,000(to save money) or also do it every 3,000 miles to do it all in the same job.
Curious that the vehicle manufacturers increasing oil service intervals is “a conspiracy”, but a car service center recommending more frequent oil changes is a service to the customer. That said, if your mechanic is honest, it’s not necessarily a bad thing for him to see your car more frequently - particularly on higher mileage vehicles, so that they can monitor things that might become a problem before it actually becomes a problem.
LoL what? Unless your friends or related to the mechanic they aren't monitoring anything. Most are only fixing problems. I know I can see as many as 30+ cars a week, can't remember every single issue on every car.
I mean “monitor” in the sense of you note a condition on the mpi that doesn’t need to be addressed this service visit but the customer will be aware to expect this repair in the future. Customer can ask for an update at the next visit or return specifically for that repair when it’s convenient for them - or wait until they need to be towed in! 😂
@@ghostwrench2292 Exactly correct. Say power steering hose is leaking. Will have to be replaced before next safety inspection. The shop is letting the customer know so they can budget for future repairs.
@@fredted1611 that’s what recommendations are for… I see the same cars all the time and monitor things that are on the recommendations and we even have tec notes in our service writer system that us, the actual tecs only see and use
But, no one ever damaged an engine by changing the oil too soon as long as the correct products were used and the filter and drain plug were installed correctly. You also have to pour the oil in right place. Don't forget that part.
My Audi A6 has 263,000 miles. Always changed with synthetic oil every 8-10,000 miles. My Audi A4 had 275,000 miles when my brother bought it for his kids. This was modified and I ran 23lbs of boost. Changed oil every 5K. My Audi TDI has 130,000 miles. All the engines in these cars ran great and did not burn oil. However, my reasoning for different interval times for oil changes depends on how one drives their vehicle. A lot of miles were on the hwy. I can get longer intervals then, (8-10,000 miles). My boosted A4, (which stock made 170 HP to 300 HP) was every 5K based on how I drove that car, (hard). My diesel, when I am driving shorter trips I change at 7500 miles. When I'm on the hwy a lot it's 10K. So, while I agree with what is being said, take into consideration on how one drives their vehicle. You may need to change every 4K if high load, heat and dirty conditions.
LMAO 🤣 I SERIOUSLY! doubt you have 2 Audi’s with almost 300k on them lol 😂 maybe if both are on their 3rd transmissions etc Audi’s are the biggest German all wheel drive piece of shit out there. And that’s saying something
@@Ryan-vj9bl I tell you what. Let's put your doubt with some money. I'll prove with pictures, mileage and service reports that what I wrote and have. All with original engines, trannys, etc. So start at $1,000 so you are so sure. Also, how many Audis have you owned to make you claim below?
I've been using full synthetic motor oil since 1993. I changed oil every 15,000 miles on my Ranger truck with no issues and sold it with 327,000 miles on it still running good original engine. Then I got a Geo Metro 3 cylinder and changed oil every 10,000 miles with full synthetic and sold that car due to rust at 326,000 miles still running good. My current car is a Honda Accord with 274,000 miles running good with 10,000 mile oil changes. Bottom line is use synthetic oil, never run them out of oil, never run them hot and engines will last a long time. Now these modern turbo engines I feel are a different story. They are running these tiny engines really hard and no amount of oil changes is going to save them. I doubt you will see many turbo charged engines going 200,000 miles without significant engine work being done.
The manufacturer's new specifications normally require a visocity that can only be found in synthetic oil options nowadays. I've likewise used only synthetic even in the models from the 90s but now have a newer model that requires 0W20 that's only available in synthetic but generally stuck to the same branding whenever possible. Any comment on the "newer" stuff?
@@KisAFriend Oils and engines have become very complicated in recent years. Mostly due to turbo engines and direct injection used to get the last mpg out of the engine while making engines smaller and lighter. I'm sure the 0W20 is good stuff for its application but I wouldn't use it in anything that it wasn't called out in the owner's manual. One oil that has my interest is the Valvoline "restore and protect" oil. From what I have read real world testing has revealed reduction in piston and ring carbon build up. This would be super and might bring some old engines that burn oil back to life if it can free the rings.
I used to do 10K mile oil changes, but replaced the filter at 5K and topped off the oil. I had a Mazda B2300 (rebadged Ranger) with over 300K miles doing this. Ran fine, did not consume oil.
@@papaske3375 I think my friend also ran the Mazda B____ series pickup. Definitely what the small Civic manufacturers back in the day would make if they also made pickup trucks. I think we over complicate the process also because drivers or users really shouldn’t be following any short of schedule unless they expect to do more or less similar driving routines year in and year out. But really, who stays at any employment role that needs commuting as part of a routine for over 20 years nowadays? Aside from those fancier electronic “oil testers” we have nowadays, I think ultimately the best practices for changing oil still remain with the drivers knowing “it’s about time”…
I use amsoil and their filter Oil is good for 25,000 or one year Filter is good for 15,000 Normally I don’t go over 15,000 Once a year oil change Cost a little more but it’s a great oil and I only have to change it once a year.
Sounds like good advice. More often has to be better. Changing the filters more often is definetly good! Buy some high quality full synthetic oil when its onsale and good quality filters and do it your self. Most people could do it them selves.
My X5 2004 with the m54 I think mine had the same 15k mile thing, most x5s aren't even on the road and regarded as the most unreliable generation, while mine runs strong, sees occasional hard acceleration, snow donuts and power slides, harsh winters here in the north east, off-roading, been through floods, hauling trailers, 1 hour and 30 commutes daily at one point, it use to get it no further than 6k miles, now I use it once a week and changed at 3,000 miles every 3 months car hasn't given me any issues hope it stays that way. 18 years with it in the family and its still healthy.
I started to do used oil analysis due to owning an airplane, where engine overhauls can reach $60k. My UOA results for passenger cars and light trucks prove that the oil monitor or owners manual recommendations are actually very conservative, even using so called "conventional" oil, which today is really a synthetic blend. This dates back to a 1992 BMW up to my newest, 2010 Honda. We got 300,000 miles on the 1999 Camry without any internal engine or transmission repairs.
Not during the warranty for sure and would only do so if running a fleet under controlled conditions. I use oil analysis to validate that the manufacturer's interval is ok. Never found it lacking. So much for the "every three months or 3000 miles" crowd.
In the business now for about 25 years and couldn't agree with you more! Your advice is especially true and necessary on modern emission controlled diesel cars and trucks!!
Most of the problems come from the long oil change intervals and the oil not being topped off. What is better a 3k miles interval and never having to check the oil level, or a 7.5k mile oil change with 2 qts. Added? 90% of people never check the oil level. All these new cars using 0w20 or now 0w16 oil are burning a large amount of oil and require oil to be added. Add direct injection and a turbo and you get the new honda's and ford turbo's. I have changed the oil on a 1.5l honda accord turbo. 4 k miles 1st oil change the blackest most watered down oil I have seen. These manufacturers have thrown caution to the wind. Soon to be gone are the day's of a bullet proof engine because of manufacturers lying about maintenance requirements.
BEST COMMENT on this subject, FILL UP and CHECK YOUR OIL EVERY TIME. These synthetics are thinner and you will "burn" it. I agree instead of 7.5K just do it at 5K it will pay for itself over the years.
I thought about that also and opted for a last gen 2017 Camry. I found one with very low miles like new, No DI or turbos, common oil type. People tend to buy what they think is high tech and cool looking without any thought of maintenance. A lot of those Honda engines were getting oil dilution issues also. Now you have hammered oil that also gets thinned out with gas from blow by due to the DI Turbo not warming up, not to mention carbon build up issues with the lack of port injection to clean the air intake valves. No thanks!
The 5k interval saves engine gaskets too. You are removing acids from combustion and moisture from heating and cooling cycles. You want maximum oil in your oil.
I changed the oil in my 2001 dodge Durango 4.7 once a year with synthetic. 14 years and 260000 miles later it was still running great. Never had to touch the engine.
Almost all engines and transmissions will last through the warranty and especially the first owner which is all they care about. That's their customer. You as the 2nd or 3rd owner of a 100K mile car is not their concern.
It's completely their conc. They want to sell you parts after the warranty. Also there is a brand perception so they can't have a car totally fall apart when it get old. It's a balancing act.
So let me get this straight... Manufacturers are telling us to go longer on oil changes so they can sell us more new cars. But the guy selling the oil changes makes a RUclips video to tell us to do oil changes SOONER! Ain't that the pot calling the kettle black
I'm sorry sir. You followed the manufacturer's recommended Mileage interval on replacing spark plugs. We now need the remove your cylinder head because the spark Plugs broke off in it.
today´s intervalls are defined by the marketing department to be competetiv in the market, especially for leasing customers... they´re not defined by the engine designers
People also negate the fact that modern GDI turbo engines have a lot of "fuel dilution" if the car makes mostly short trips. Check your oil at around 3000k on a GDI car. The oil will likely smell like gasoline. That's the excess cold start fuel being blown by the piston rings and saturating your oil. I've had this happen in my 2016 Buick Regal Turbo and 2016 F150 with the 2.7 turbo. Both engines run great but I change the oil when the oil life monitor reaches 50%. Usually about 4,000 miles.
I am a retired mechanic now doing airport transportation. Despite Hyundai‘s problems with their 2.0L turbo and 2.4L engines my 2013 Sonata has 212,000 miles on the ORIGINAL engine and transmission. Valvoline modern engine full synthetic 5W30 every 3,000 miles. Transmission fluid changes every 15,000 miles. I do most of my own service. It’s just starting to consume a small amount of oil (about 1/2 qt every 1,000 miles). Other than that it still runs and drives great! According to the owners manual in a warm region like Florida 10W30 can be used so I’ll be switching over to 10W30 high mileage in an attempt to slow down the oil burning. That 2013 Sonata is now my back up vehicle. I’ve recently purchased a 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander and it will receive the same care only this time by the dealer. I’m getting too old to crawl around under vehicles. On a sidenote the vehicle I traded in was a 1999 Hyundai Accent I purchased new! It’s still ran and drove great when I turned it in! Not bad for a so-called “throwaway car!“
Nice work sir! I too just bought a new 2020 Outlander. Just did a break in oil change at 1,000 miles, cut open the filter to inspect and installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Here’s my video: ruclips.net/video/cw78lH_1EpQ/видео.html
I own a 2014 Santa Fe with a 2.4 the dealer just replaced the complete engine free of charge. I agree with proper oil changes. If I were you I would have bought another Hyundai. My son owned two Outlanders they were totally junk and nothing but trouble.
That’s awesome, have you checked the pcv ? Could possibly be cause to the 1/2 quart most likely not but hey worth a check. Wow great job hoping to get 200,000+ out of our 2020 Tucson 2.0l. Change oil myself every 4K and run a oil catch can 41,000 miles drives absolutely fine. Besides the annoying pinging that happens every now and then for sure in summer Florida unless I run 89 octane goes away but not worth it really to my pockets, nature of the beast runs great though.
Why in the world would you switch from a 5w-30 to a 10w-30? At full operating temp both of those oils are almost dead nutz on for viscosity that meets a “30wt”. By going with a 10w vs a 5w you are just prolonging oil flow to critical parts so thus accomplishing nothing. I use Mobil 1 0w-40 (it’s a light 40wt that fulfills all requirements of 5w-30) in high mileage Toyota/Lexus/Hyundai/Chevy, and it works beautifully. The side benefit is this oil has been proven to clean dirty engines and especially ring packs, but slowly and gently. It’s also a proven road racing oil and is used in countless German high performance cars. Also “all oils” have seal swelling agents. High mileage oils just contain more, along with more ZDDP, and a slightly stronger detergent additive. You can also add your own to any regular oil (LubeGard Leak Fixx or similar). Won’t hurt the engine one bit.
@@nordicpride9708 I use the Mobile 1 0w40 European blend full synthetic, it has a better additive package than most other oils. A guy that goes by Rat540 performed extensive testing on oils and it tested at the top. I have two 2015 Camaros, both 6.2L and one supercharged, my wife drives a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0 turbocharged, I change her oil at 5,000 intervals and my Camaros once a year which is generally around 3K to 3,500 per year. I have two motorcycles is why the mileage is so low on my cars. The best part is that I get the Mobile 1 from Walmart for $4.92 a quart in the 12 quart box. I would use it in my 1978 Chevy truck but I built the 557 ci big block a little on the loose side on the bearing clearance so I use Mobile 1 15w50 in it and the 565 ci motor in my dragster. I’m 73 and have never ever had anyone other than myself change my oil, especially dealerships, even in the numerous new cars I have bought over the years with “free oil changes” and it has served me well.
The mentality of most people nowadays is to only keep the vehicle a certain amount of years because they feel they have to constantly drive the newest thing out there. Very few people buy a vehicle and pay it off. It's usually traded in before then so the manufacturer doesn't care cause that vehicle is gonna make it through warranty period and once it switches hands who cares.
I have a 2013 Toyota Highlander full synthetic oil, 10K mileage interval, never missed a change, 237K miles on it. Now I just bought a 2023 Kia Sportage, manual reads 8K mileage interval, called early to schedule an appointment, receptionist said because of area & extreme conditions, 3700 miles is recommended. 👀. Called different dealerships to confirm, got different answers from follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to change at 5K miles. I drive highway miles daily to work approximately 90 miles in total, already at 2850 miles in 35 days, based on the reviews & videos I’ve seen including yours, which I’m inclined to agree with, I’m changing my oil at 5K miles and I’m sticking with it, & it’ll be done at the dealership, because I’m gonna get my 100K mileage warranty out of my Kia. I’ll hit that benchmark in about 4 years or so. Great story, I concur 👍🏾. Thanks 😊
I remember back in the '60's when a car got to 50,000 - 60,000 miles, many people were looking to either have an overhaul or trade it in for a new car. How things have changed!
Back then lot of cheap parts put in engines didn't last. Japanese engines even in the 80's like the Toyota 22RE would go 300k miles. They used steel cranks, and roller cams not cheap junk like the big 3 did. Japanese like Toyota and Honda forced the big 3 to improve their engines.
@@Mike-01234the big 3 have engines from the 60's that have made it into the next century. Engine oil quality and timing chains were the weak point with those engines. But even my fathers car made it to 220,000 on the original plastic timing gears. Rest of the motor was fine.
@@VitoVecciaI remember cars burning oil either rings, or valve seals start leaking. Depends on what kind of driving also highway driving will go further.
@@Mike-01234 this is very true. Operating conditions play a huge impact. My father had to rebuild the engine in his f600 every 30k miles. It was a 330HD, but he refused to split the gears with the 2 speed rear. Everything else he owned was fine.I remember my dad always swore by 2,000 mile oil changes, and 10w40 oil. Before he started his construction company, he worked as a mechanic. It took over 40 years to prove everyone wrong, be he was right about the owners manual: you can't always trust it.
@@Mike-0123480s/90s Japanese engines definitely were pretty indestructible. My old 91 Accord had 430,000 miles on the original engine and trans when I sold it. Still shifted like butter in every gear and had plenty of pickup.
I'm old school, my Father ran his own garage for many years, and back then, it was 3000 miles on an oil change. I know all about how oil has improved over the years and how you can go longer, and I do use full Synthetic in my vehicles, but I still stay between 3 to 4k miles. It's simple, pull your dipstick at 3k and look at the oil, if it's getting dirty looking, it's time to go. Why run oil that looks like it's full of crud? It's really cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. Some people will say I'm throwing my money away, but have you priced out an engine rebuild? I can change my oil myself and save money there or even take to the shop and have it done for far less than I can replace the engine. I've been known to own a vehicle for 20 years or until the body rots off them, and you can't do that on dirty oil.
Pretty dirty is good! It’s doing it’s job. Unless it’s burnt or has radiator fluid in it. Oil analysis is what I recommend. Get it down to specifics in my opinion
The color of oil means Nothing, it's the texture, thinning that is a concern. Look at diesels. Change the oil, run for 5 min and the oil is jet black. Color means absolutely nothing
@@bluesky-ud9wg I got news for you, diesel oil is already black when it goes in. Regular engine oil is honey color, it gets black after about 3k miles. Hmmm, just about the time it needs changing.
Dorthauler!! Can you please let me know that I am using KIXC 20W-50 semi-synthetic heavy diesel engine oil in my suzuki celerio gasoline 2007 after engine re-build. There is no oil leakage/issue. Normally oil changing frequency is 3000-3500 km. Should I switch to Liquimoly on which grade??
On my 2013 Toyota Corolla, I let the dealer do oil changes during the warranty period. The free maintenance Toyota provides, where you return every 5000 miles, only has them replacing the oil every 10,000 miles. So in reality you only get two free oil changes. After the warranty I started changing my own oil every 5000 miles. I now have 300k+ miles on this car. The only engine issue was a head gasket leak, that was not oil related.
My father's business partner purchased a new 1972 Ford pickup and drove it for 174,000 miles, never changing the oil or filter once. All he did was add oil and keep it at proper capacity. He always drove it like he stole it. I certainly don't follow this practice but I have always changed the oil and filter in my vehicles at 20K. Most were Hondas that went close to or over 200K and my present car is a Lexus RX350 at 190K miles and going strong.
@@reneclaasen6706 Technically oil doesn't "break down", it becomes polluted over time with foreign material, rendering it less effective in lubrication. Recycled oil is simply filtered of those pollutants. I don't mind that folks change their oil every 2K miles - that practice is very good for my oil investments.
EVERY SINGLE MANUAL of EVERY SINGLE car I drove, ACTUALLY states the LONG intervals are jn ideal conditions only. Each manual had an asterix next to the high mile number and if you jump to the explanation of the asterix, it basically tells you to HALF the interval if driven in one of the following: and then proceeds to name EVERY driving scenario except pure highway driving. So NO the manual not trying to fool you, it's just that people read them at a glance and the dealers don't tell you to read the fine print. I do changes twice a year, or roughly every 3.000-5.000 miles, BECAUSE my manul states to do, and never had any problems with any of my cars. Current one has been with me 15 years, since new and still drives problem free
The claim that manufacturers want you to ruin engines is comical. By the same logic what do repair shops want, they want you to do more service more often 🤔 If I follow procedure and my car dies my brand loyalty dies. Manufacturers spend too much money to earn loyalty to give it up like that. But then again Ford still makes crap vehicles so who knows maybe you are right about some companies 😂
We bought a 2015 Honda CRV and followed the oil change intervals which have been closed to 10k miles. It now has 150k miles and it uses quite a bit of oil. I keep it full but our next CRV will get the oil changed more often.
I’ve been using Mobile 1 Full Synthetic with 7.5-10k mile intervals on the last 5 vehicles. I sell my cars around 185k, but usually to friends or family. All of the my old vehicles have over $250k miles and still run great! Stop trying to take peoples hard earned money by recommend needless oil changes. Cars now have much larger oil capacity’s then older vehicles as well.
oh my god, just dont start the brand fanboy stuff... Use the oil that meets manufacturer specifications, and thats all, you dont need expensive stuff, and many times brands doesnt even have oil that covers all the actual car specifications. Dont just look at the viscosity, the additives are also very important, and these differs from oil to oil, also there are other specifications like the ACEA C3 or C5 (in Europe) that have to pass to be compatible .
I'm nicer than some people. If your change interval is 7500 miles, you don't need to use an upmarket synthetic oil. Any name brand will do - Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker, Chevron or whatever. If you want to pay for Mobil 1 it's your business though. If you're going to the full 10,000 miles then maybe its time to think upmarket. I'm conservative in my theories. I have a 21 year old import. I use semisynthetic and set the drain interval at 2800 miles. It's too easy to work on to try anything different. My home oil change costs me about $15. A local tire chain will do it for $19.95 with dino oil. When you need synthetic, the shop price starts to jump at lot.
Two cars over 200,000 miles doing oil changes every 3000 miles using conventional oil. One car never burned a drop. My current car has 145,000 miles using conventional oil and it doesn't burn a drop between changes. Over the years I've used all the oils. The main oils were Quaker State and Pennzoil 10w-30s. Today I'm using Valvoline 5w-20. They are all good oils if your change intervals are 3000 miles. Now I've never had a HP engine or turbo and from what I understand such engines require synthetics so I wouldn't recommend conventional oils in those engines but I'd still recommend 3000 mile intervals. The reason being is because oil becomes diluted over time by raw fuel blowing past the piston rings and entering the crank case. And then there are the other contaminants that cause your oil to turn black. The longer one waits to change their oil......................... I've even heard people say that their cars don't start burning oil until they reach a certain amount of mileage like 4000 miles or 5000 miles. This makes perfect sense! The oil has thinned do to fuel dilution. If your car is doing this consider changing your oil every 3000 miles. And always change your oil filter when you change your oil. It doesn't cost that much more. Same goes for your synthetics oils. They don't cost that much more then conventional oil anymore, so why not?
They aren't lying at all, technically at least. Oil changes are actually ok, I hypothesize, given the right conditions, every 8-10k miles. I am not sure even then it is ok, however, a majority of the time, 8-10k is not ok, and that's according to their guidelines. According to Toyota and Kia at least, if severe conditions are involved, recommended oil change intervals are to be cut in half; and those conditions are: (Especially pay attention to a, b, f, and k) "Severe Driving Conditions A : Repeatedly driving short distance of less than 8km(5 miles) in normal temperature or less than 16km(10 miles) in freezing temperature. B : Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances. C : Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads. D : Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather E : Driving in heavy dust condition. F : Driving in heavy traffic area. G : Diving in uphill, downhill, or mountain roads repeatedly. H : Towing a trailer or using a camper on roof rack. I : Driving for patrol car, taxi, other commercial use of vehicle towing. J : Driving over 170km/h(106mph). K : Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions."
You’re absolutely correct! Toyota, of all manufacturers, (maybe this is just the American dealers?) says there “sealed transmission “ fluid never needs changing. 😳 It’s a machine!!! It requires fluid! Clean fluid!
Jeff, I’ve been a gear head ever since I got on a bicycle & through the ownership of my various vehicles brands, my oil service intervals has changed from 3K to 5K after doing a little research.
Really simple stuff,if you want to know how your oil is doing send it to a lab. $40 or so for a full test,will let you know roughly how long your oil will hold up. Been doing 15k km changes for years, tests fine with a safe tbn and reasonable wear metals. A 15k change with 3x the wear metals of a 5k change is not a bad thing.
@@PatChapp lolol you know changing the oil usually stops those problems before they become expensive too ? Maybe one a year but 5kmi changes aren't exactly breaking the bank
@@stevemasterson7776 so oil changes can tell you about a very slightly leaking headgasket? On one of my titans I had one of the headgaskets leaking coolant into the oil,not enough to go milky or cause any noticeable issues yet. My yearly oil analysis detected it. Saved me from an engine locking up.
@@PatChapp so now it's a yearly thing? Okay that's a bit different than what you described... I said once a year sure but other than that 5kmi oil changes is the best mechanic money can buy
I wanted to change the oil in my car at 5k but the service person at the Stealership told me to wait until 8k interval. And I was paying from my pocket, very strange.
Often ignored but needs to be considered is the severity of service your engine is exposed to. Most of my mileage on both of my vehicles is back and forth to work twice a day 15 minutes each time in urban traffic. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles with inexpensive yet reliable Walmart super tech synthetic. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
There also "safety factor." If the OCI is 7.5k...you're probably still "good" from a fluid perspective if you didn't change it but every 9k, just for example.
Yes but no its not just about having the correct amount but the quality oil as well i dont mean the best oil but from new to used cleaner the oil the better
Using cooking oil in your vehicle can lead to several problems. Cooking oil does not have the necessary additives and detergents found in motor oil, which can result in increased engine wear, poor lubrication, and buildup of sludge and deposits. It may also cause increased friction and heat, leading to engine overheating and potential damage.
very well put. I am a tech with over 40 years experience and couldn't agree with you more. while I will soon retire I try to educate as many people as possible about this topic. Its difficult with todays kids taking anything they read from the manufactures as gospel.
So you have seen cars engines go, because they changed the oil at the recommended intervals, instead of 3k miles lol?? Never happen. Unless you are very negligent, your engine will most likely last longer than you want to keep driving the car. Transmissions, body rot/damage, exhaust etc, will all go before.
@@micker9830 Yes, all the time. Lots of timing chain and turbo issues with long oil change intervals. Lots more intake valve carbon deposits. Breather problems. Camshaft problems. Oil pump inlet issues. Lots of issues.
It' really quite infuriating. The carbon footprint of unnecessary maintenance, especially oil changes and tires are dramatically contributing to climate change. I can't have a dishwasher that actually works, but I need to do expensive unscheduled maintenance. Firstly literally no one exercises the powertrain warranty, because they are so reliable. As far as who knows best, I guess I will go with the engineers that actually designed the vehicle. I know why you are contradicting them. Any vehicle made in the last 10 to 15 years will easily go 200,000 miles my simply following the owner's manual recommended service interval.
Then who needs the OLM? If the OLM tells you to change your oil why go by it You could have thousands of miles to go if it doesn’t measure the quality of the oil. I don’t use my monitor I change my oil and filter when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Cost for me to do it myself with full synthetic oil and a quality oil filter about $25.00.
Good information, as example the amount of timing chain issues these days across all manufacturers can be directly attributed to these long oil change intervals being pushed
Especially for Direct injected engines that spray fuel at a high pressure directly into the cylinder which forces fuel past the rings into the oil pan accelerating oil degradation. They have developed a new oil standard "ILSAC GF-6A" that is made to resist fuel due to DI now becoming common and a lot of premature engine failure due to it. I followed the recommended oil change interval in my DI car at at 80,000 miles it started burning too much oil and running bad. Now I have to rebuild the engine and I will never follow the extended drain interval ever again and will make sure to only use ILSAC GF-6A oil that was never available in the years I drove that car.
I worked with Japanese automakers...in the 90s is when they started testing extended intervals. The extended intervals were driven by environmental regulations pushed by govt and environmental groups and also by customers who didn't want to get maintenance so frequently. Better manufacturing and better oils made it possible to extend the interval. As you know, the Japanese makers are all about reliability and durability FIRST so they tested and tested and tested. Result was that the short interval of 3k to 5k miles did have less wear than the extended 6k to 7.5k interval...but the wear at the extended interval was well within spec. So you don't need to change more often than the recommended interval. You can if you want, all men are free! But no kidding, you're not gaining much. I'm not speaking for the U.S. big three makers...with possible and limited exception of Ford. I'm sure they benefited from the same tech improvements as Japanese and that 3k miles is overkill now...but I just don't buy their products. Worked with them too...their specs are always "good enough"...while Japanese were always, "as great as possible."
You are correct. “Within spec” is a good balance between maximizing the life of the vehicle and preserving our planet. Draining Mobil 1 at 3K or 5K is simply selfish.
That is why I am sold on Japanese cars, specifically Honda's. I grew up driving GM's ( I am 61 years old). Always took care of my cars, regular oil changes, etc etc. EVERY SINGLE GM i owned , at around 80-90-K, something major would ALWAYS go wrong: Head gasket, trans, etc and they all leaked oil too. I switched to Honda's about 25 years ago, have had a few. two over 100K and still running strong when I sold them, have an Accord with 115k on it runs PERFECT. NO issues, no major break downs, no oil burning, and they do not leak a single drop of anything. Why can't GM or Ford do this consistently like the Japanese do?
I 100% agree and people won't listen to me when I talk to them about the same thing that you just said in this video Wish people would close mouth and open ears sometimes and just listen to what's going on in the field These manufacturers are telling people that they can go 10-15 thousand miles between oil changes because they know they're going to sell another vehicle when the motor fails Here's a video that I put out yesterday on the 1.5 EcoBoost because I showed people what inside the motor looks like at 16,000 18,000 40,000 60,000 and all the sludge buildup at 5000 mile oil change intervals When you have these small little turbo engines and you don't understand how they're supposed to be driven they need to be serviced much much sooner Anyway here's a video I just put out on the explanation of the 1.5 L ecoboost engine the Ford Fusion and Ford Escape motor as well as overseas they use it in the Ford Focus ruclips.net/video/cdg0czlZJ74/видео.html
My car has a variable oil change monitor and is usually kicks at about 6800K on a 10K synthetic oil as I drive hard. I really never considered this an issue and have no oil consumption or leaks on my 250K engine. I have also not had to put a high mileage oil in the vehicle.
You do know all these oil monitors in cars are nothing more than a mileage counter and if they got fancy they programed them to also record the speed and average time the ignition was on. None of them actually analyze the actual oil, you have to send a sample to a lab to do that and if you do guess what? The lab will 99% of the time tell you that your oil was in great shape and could go longer.
This was a well done video for a shop to make. I’m Canadian and I change my oil around 5,000km but will go up to 7,000km if my driving was pure economy and not over heating the oil. If I’m having fun and driving hard the most is 5,000km or sooner, I also run slightly thicker oil in the summer and when I know I’m gonna be in higher rpm range for long periods of time.
Really, it's all just a guess unless you're doing oil analysis. You can figure out a good baseline change interval for each particular vehicle and engine based on that.
I got ‘20 Tacoma, my manual stated 1st oil service @ 10K unless truck is driven short distances at low ambient temps (which I qualified for) than 5K. I wouldn’t mind having a lab look at the oil @ 10K, visually it looks normal brown burn cycle color.
On my Toyota I usually go between 4500 and 7500 miles depending on how I've driven I've seen the oil totally shot at 4500 mi and still be relatively golden and translucent at 7500 mi, there's a couple of Toyota Master techs on RUclips who say to change it every 5,000 mi That's pretty much for the lay person If you want to regularly check it and are mindful of how you drive I think you can stretch it out further than 5,000 but they have said that on the 10K intervals they've seen the cars burn oil in higher mileage, and of course this is all hinging on the notion that you plan on keeping this vehicle for an extended period of time and are not just leasing it
I took delivery of my new 2021 Tacoma TRD Pro (in Canada) and the dealer (and maintenance manual) recommended oil change interval is 8000kms (5000 miles). I previously owned a 2008 Tacoma and always changed the synthetic oil every 8000kms. Unusual Canadian and USA “standards” vary to that degree....perhaps an across the board climate consideration🤷♂️
@@gerrytaylor5137 I think You hit on the issue “climate considerations”. I got my truck during winter, the maintenance manual states “if driven for less than 7 miles and short trips in cold ambient temperatures” every 5000 miles (which I qualified for) otherwise every 10000 mi.
Change the oil and filter l every 3000 miles with a high quality oil. If it's a well-built vehicle, the engine will run well and last a very long time with minimal issues.
Hello. What’s your recommendation on the first oil change of a new car when you’re still breaking-in an engine? Change it at 1000 miles or later? Thanks.
@@blondebimbomarkusyour statement would be wrong as too early is never too early enough, as the breaking oil needs to go a certain amount of miles or driving conditions in order to seat the rings and other components inside the engine so changing the oil too soon could risk those critical parts not being properly seated
In my opinion, a big reason for extended oil change intervals per manufacturers is government told them they had to be more environment friendly. OK, we'll just double the oil change interval, saving lots of oil. Just type a different number in the manual.
My mechanic friend emphasised that good, clean, fresh oil is imperative. So I have always changed my oil inbetween the recommended mileage/kms or every 6 months even when under new car warranty. I have NEVER had an engine problem with any car I have owned (propably in excess of 20 cars both modern and classics). For the sake of $50ish it is the cheapest insurance in the world.
I drive 80 miles a day 5 days a week that's 9,600 miles every 6 months. I have a 2000 dodge durango that I bought used it now has 296,000 miles on it. I use 5w30 full synthetic changed anywhere between 7,000 and 9,000 miles. ZERO ISSUES
Full synthetic can go 8-10k in most conditions. Not listening to the owners manual is not wise. Oil changes every 3k/3 months is a waste imo. Poor dinosaurs
@@paulwilliams6534 Well alot has happened in 10 months bud. Durango got T boned and totalled. Now I have a 12 focus DI motor, 5w20 full synthetic changed every 3 to 4k. Why? It's a DI motor (direct injection) with a poor PCV system. There as dirty as a diesel engine. What I am trying to say is every engine is different, some will do 7 to 9k. And some just won't, if you want it to last. Research is key.
@@fredted1611Sorry to hear about that man. Im on my 3rd DI car, a 19' GTI. I'm very aware they're dirty engines. Carbon/oil deposits on the valves will require cleaning around 60-80k miles on VAG vehicles or sooner. The PCV system is good and I've sent my oil to get analyzed at 8k and barely shows oil breakdown. Is your oil pretty dirty at 3k? I also higher grade than oem oil.
So you spoke and showed absolutely no proof of your claims. Theres another conspiracy theory, your shop makes more money if people come more often to get their oil changed. I can make that claim and have no proof as well. I have a 2014 Sprinter with close to 140k miles running great doing oil changes every 15k miles with synthetic as it is recommended by Mercedes Benz. No engine failure or anything wrong with the oil as it comes out.
5000 is ideal. 90 percent of people drive severe service intervals. My 2020 Corolla hatch xse says 10000 for normal and 5000 for severe. 5000 is perfect and oil is cheap af. I do it every other change because toyota changes it free every 10000 miles.
140.000 is not really alot. I have 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am I bought new. Lt1 engine. 3000 mile oil changes religiously. Castrol GTX 10 30. The engine has never been touched, even the timing chain is original. It runs, and sounds like new. And uses no oil. It has never failed to pass California emissions test,, which is very strict.. I doubt you'll get that many miles on your engine with that long of oil change intervals.
Hyundai’s severe usage schedule is every 3000 miles / 6 months oil change. And pretty much everyone falls under severe usage. So definitely better to change more frequently
@@jdinn32 ... I have owned 5 Hyundai cars and always do 4000 mile intervals. Most of my driving is highway trips of 15 miles or more, very few short trips. I've never had an engine problem even with the dreaded 2.4 theta II in my Sonatas. Currently own a '21 Sonata 2.5 but that's an all new engine from the Genesis group. I baby my cars... always let them idle for 30 to 60 seconds before dropping it gear. Never drive it hard until its fully warmed up(but after its warmed I drive the piss out of them). Hyundai makes great cars if you understand them and maintain them.
Wow, my 2001 car has only 113k miles... put ONLY 3k last year ... COVID and stuff. I change as the book at every 10k. Engine is running Great. Semisynthetic.
I agree with andym1594. I have owned numerous cars during my 40 plus years of driving. I have yet to see one fail due to engine wear. It is always some other unrelated expensive repair. For the past 20 years I have followed the recommended oil changes in the owner's manual. My 2005 Toyota Corolla lasted 205,000 mi without burning a drop of oil. Unfortunately it was totaled in an accident. My 2009 Toyota sienna has 180,000 miles on it and does not burn any oil at all. My 2013 Honda Accord has 170,000 mi on it. It did have an oil consumption issue which I found was related to the PCV valve. Once that was changed, the oil consumption was no longer an issue. I thank the internet for that diagnosis. I will continue to change my oil based on the owner's manual.
Well shops need to sell too so who do we listen to? Vehicle manufacturers or the mechanic shops telling you to come in sooner? One way to know for sure is have an oil analysis done on your next oil change. They will tell you if the oil still has life or is past due and also let you know what else they find floating in the oil that shouldn't be there.
@@Starman-yt8lj you’re telling me that these shops have absolutely no stake in customers coming in every 5k-8k miles for an oil change? Cmon that’s just naive.
@@Starman-yt8lj oh yeah ? So why is there so much oil change places ? They tell you to come a lot and then over-sale you on brakes and other things... Shops don't make money on expensive repairs because no ones to them, by the time it appends it's either under warranty or not worth it so the car is not getting repaired.
I have been doing servis on trucks sens 30 years back , i have a rule , if you drive youre car 1 hour per day you need to change the oil twise per year and on diesels fuelfilter to . The reson is simpel you change the oil to make the engine last longer and the oil is cheap compered to change the motor . The oils are alot better today cant deny that but the engine leavs dirt in the oil , the longer intervals gives more dirt in the same amont of oil and filtrering as you hade in the cars 15 years ago. To day they make the motors use more less and less fuel and with that comes oilconsumtion with the fact of using pistonrings with less cylinderwall pressure and by that you have eaven more dirt from combustion in to the oil , so to make it simple , go back to basics and change the oil to make youre car last longer . 1hour drive per day 2 oilchanges per year is my personal recomedation to you and use OEM filters and recomended oil , dont go cheap on oil and filters.
My 2013 f150 5.0 had 260k miles and has had 26 oil changes, Never have had a problem. mobile 1 synthetic(15000 mile now says 20000 mile) with mobile 1 long life filter Some say the manufacturer of vehicles say 10k oil changes to wear out the motor faster I dont find this to be true. However, I find oil shops encouraging 5k mile oil changes to sell more oil and filters. It costs me about $120 per oil change 8 quarts plus a filter. $3120 in 10 years or $6240 in 10 years......I feel like im coming out ahead.
You're getting ripped off, mobile 1 for 8qt should be under $50 and oem oil filter around $7, that's $57 (DIY). Had I have to pay $120 for each, I'd probably be doing 10k oil changes like you.
Back in the late '90s, I watched an episode of 60 Minutes, or another similarly themed program. It might have been 48 Hours. I don't recall for sure which it was. Well, this particular story raised this very question. With that, Consumer Reports magazine was hired to do an experiment testing what the oil change might be, based on their own testing. The whole idea was to challenge the then recommended 3000 mile service interval that fast-lubes nearly all insisted on. They purchased ten brand new taxi cabs (I do not recall the make or model of the car), and in cooperation with a NY city cab company, went on a strict service schedule with each of these ten cars. The oil was changed every 6000 miles for 60,000 miles. Each car was serviced with a different brand of oil--from budget to the priciest synthetic. The common denominator was that all ten oils were API certified. After driving the 60,000 miles. each of the engines was disassembled and examined for wear. NONE of the ten engines showed "significant wear". Their conclusion was that the recommended oil change of 3000 miles at fast lube chains was unnecessary, and to use the recommended service schedule printed in your car owner's manual. If people want to waste money on too frequent oil changes, it's their prerogative. But think about what this fellow's angle is. By what he is saying, he's alleging that the car manufacturer doesn't want their engines to last, so they can sooner rather than later sell you a new car. Hmm. And who do you think is benefiting from the advice that this mechanic is offering? Don't you think that car owners will take note of cars that have short lived engines? Recall that Consumer Reports and other entities rate cars based on reliability, among other factors. There are such reports for virtually every car made going back, probably, fifty years. Wouldn't the manufacturers want people to know that their cars are dependable, and won't need a premature engine change--or that they will have to junk their car before they even make 100,000 miles? Think about how much more dependable and long lasting most modern cars are compared to those from the 1970s or earlier. I'm old enough to recall those cars. You were lucky to see 100K miles with any of them. I cannot say with certainty that this fellow is right or wrong. But he has a vested interest in giving the advice that he's giving. And by the way, I have noticed in recent years that the fast-lube places no longer push the 3000 mile interval, because consumers got wise to them based on investigative stories like the one I mention, and probably via other sources such as magazine articles and the like. For the past couple decades, or more, I have had my oil changed every 5000 miles. That is more often than recommended, so I too, may be throwing money away. But in a nod to this mechanic's advice, I am erring on the side of prevention rather than early car retirement. What is the best interval? Hell if I know. I'm not an automotive engineer.
Sounds like you're trying to cite the famous CR study of 75 NYC taxis for 2 yrs and 4.5 million miles. It was an oil comparison study with changes at 7500 mi. and showed that even synthetic oil was not superior to even the cheapest appropriate API certified oil. Common oil additives were just the usual snake oil. The results should not have been a surprise to anyone but, for a lot of people, motor oil is more of a religion than science. Maybe we should call it The Church of Engines are Expensive and Oil is Cheap.
@@wholeNwon That must be the same study. I didn't realize that it was 75 cabs! That's a thorough test! Anyway, I have watched Jiffy Lube clerks up-sell unsuspecting customers more expensive "high mileage", semi-synthetic or full sythetic oil. I sat there in the waiting room watching this play out, while only moments earlier I had told the clerk that I only want the basic oil--NOT the more pricey semi or full synthetic (the car I owned at the time was coming up on 100K miles). It pissed me off as these people were being bamboozled, but in the marketplace, pulling the wool over customer's eyes comes with the territory. It's the price we pay for a moderately regulated system of commerce. That, and the fact that we Homo sapiens cannot help ourselves in the deeply seated impulse to enrich ourselves at other's expense. That trait will never go away! So, that requires systems of commerce and trade to have regulations enacted by governments . I always scoff and chuckle at the opinions of those who think that the invisible hand of the '"free market" is a self correcting force that keeps everybody honest and doing the right thing. "We need less regulation and less government" they cry! Sometimes that is true. Sometimes it is not. I now have two vehicles with each just over the 100K mile mark. I get my oil changed every 5000 miles with regular oil and will continue doing that until I sell them.
I've been a professional mechanic for 37 years. I have seen too many engines to count, fail from improper maintenance, mostly lack of oil changes, in those almost 4 decades. And I mean failures directly linked to the lack of proper maintenance. I have never seen changing the oil too often cause a failure. As cheap as an oil change is and as expensive as a major repair is it makes sense to change the oil at the proper time. Most fleet departments have a 5000mile/6 month interval and if the vehicle has an hour meter then it overrides everything else as it is the true measure of oil life. And you will find those stories of the guy who never changed his oil and got 300k miles out of his old truck or the guy who changed his oil every 10k miles and got 278k miles. And this happens but it is rare. I personally change my oil at 5000 miles and for someone like my 92 year old mother who only drives 1000 miles a year I change it every spring. But today so many people simply trade their cars off at 70k miles so for them it really isn't as important.
The proper interval between oil changes is like an asshole, we all have our own (opinion on what it is). There are so many variables involved, there is no such thing as an exact number of miles or length of time. The same can be said of different brands of oil with the same specs. Change it whenever you think you should, don't try to convince anyone else to do the same and we'll all be happy.
Agreed. Driving style, climate, air conditions, traffic conditions, frequency of driving, elevation and even the day of the week the engine was built at the factory ALL play a roll in determining the oil change interval.
But, no one has ever damaged an engine because they changed the oil too soon, so long as they used the correct products and installed the filter correctly.
@@anonymike8280 All true except for the period of "dry start" which is definitely longer than when an engine has already run with the oil in the crankcase. Those few extra seconds produce an exceptionally high percentage of wear, definitely more than at any other time the engine is turning over.
@@frankmiller95 Not in my vehicle. In my vehicle, the filter drains 100 percent just sitting. It makes no difference. Also, there is always residual oil in the bearings and in the cam area. I consider the idea a "Dr. Doom" scenario. You have to start the engine after you change oil. Sometime you have to start the engine in very cold weather (but not where I live). Sometime you have to start an engine that has been sitting for a very long time. Sometimes even decades.
It also how much you drive AKA the age of the oil. If you drive a ton, you can get away with more miles between oil changes. For example I'm a rideshare driver so I drive about 5,000 mi a month. So my oil is never very old.. So I've been going about 15,000 mi between oil changes on super premium oil and a super premium filter. No issues yet but I'll let you know if that changes
@@johnfranklin5277I do 10k miles on my 2000 Honda accord with over 200,000 miles...using full synthetic 5w30...low consumption and engine quiet and smooth...which I purchased back in April 2000...
Best always doing an oil analysis to figure out how often you need to change your oil based around your driving style and climatic conditions, they're worth their weight in gold
I only use synthetic Amsoil on all my vehicles. I change oil every 5k miles in my wife’s sports car and my three trucks. I change oil on my GoldWing every 5k miles and every 3k miles on my Harley. I am anal about maintaining my vehicles. All run like new.
I was in the repair business from 76_2018 over 40 years from 76 until 2005 engines would go bad bearing ,cam,cracked heads around 2000 most engines failed because of coolant went bad and killed the newer engine delete cylinder engine and turbo need fresh oil and the gm,v6 timing chain.this was just starting when I left.flushing the coolant was something no one looked at I think it killed a lot of cars
I think it still does..As long as Coolant is changed often, and more often than recommended with the exact OEM recommended coolant for that vehicle, people generally won't have cooling system issues..If a car today begins to overheat, damage is almost immediately occuring...The vehicle must pull off the road and engine stopped Immediately..It's so important to change coolant regularly along with making it a habit to look at the coolant Guage periodically while driving..A majority of people today have zero clue about the mechanics or physics involved in prolonging the life of their vehicles..One would think that with an average US car payment of 600 a month for 66 months, they would be interested in such things.. They aren't..They're more interested in their Audio System 😂
I am 63 years old, I have two cars, a 1985 BMW 735i and a 2010 Subaru Forester Touring 5spd manual, both purchased new from dealers. At "break in period", in both cases, for the first 3000KM I have changed oil and filter every 1000KM then at 5000KM and from then on religiously every 5000KM (stick with one brand of oil through out the life of your car, I happen to use Casterol and Quaker State, never ever use dealer oil, take your own oil with you to the dealer or mechanic). I drop all liquids, and I mean all liquids, from front to back every 50,000KM and replaced the radiator on each car every 100,000KM with an original. The BMW has 830,000KM and the Subaru has 451,000KM, needless to say neither has ever broken down and neither has ever had the engine or transmission opened for repairs (except for timing belt) I continue to use both cars for everyday use and on very long journeys. This sort of maintenance is considered "over doing it" if you lease cars, I do not. Be vigilant on inspecting cleaning/replacing sensors, valves, pipes, belts, plugs, wires and distributor cap and your car will last a life time, absolutely hassle free. Lastly, wax the exterior of your car once every two months. Happy miles all.
The engineer of the Nissan GT-R was on another RUclips video stating(through his interpreter), that if you want you car to last 500,000 or more you need to change the oil every 3000 miles, and change the oil filter every 6000 miles. ESPECIALLY on a turbocharged engine. He also stated eventhough synthetic oil is superior to regular oil, it's not that much better. So, he said, if you want to save money you can use regular oil because it's being changed so often.
I watched that guy too, and although I'm a nobody, but I love and care for my cars, I've always thought and practiced exactly what he said. Well, he actually said it in Japanese, but that other guy did a great job translating. Nice to find out I've been right all along.
Who on here only changes their oil filter every other oil change?
@@ljohn4466That’s what I was wondering 🤣
@@ljohn4466 A few decades ago, changing your oil filter at every other oil change was the rule of thumb.
Yeah I saw that too
This is the BEST video on this subject I have ever seen. I usually change my oil 4500-5k. Always.
80% of the time it works 100% of the time.
Thanks for that brilliant post
I still follow the old 3K/3-month interval. Overkill? Perhaps, but it's my vehicle and I don't mind spending the money for fresh oil/filter that often.
That's ridiculous
Look up New York taxis test oils. You will find there is no more wear on engines with less expensive oils than the expensive oils. Best oil is clean oil. Oil takes in gas water carbon acids while driving thousands of miles. Best insurance for your car/truck is clean oil. A cheap insurance for your engine.
Thats a tough one because without reading it I would assume the cars are always running.
I've heard about New York taxi test. Fleet tests are the only real world way to prove or disprove mechanical theories related to maintenance. One conclusion knowing about this fleet test led me to is that there is no point in paying more for products with specifications that you will not, in fact, utilize. For example, why do I need to worry about the flow rate of different oils at -40? It never gets below the mid-20s in any place I have lived in the last 40 years, except one, where it hit the teens a couple of times every year. A premium oil filter has no value if you change your oil every 3000 miles or less.
My thought is, there is no substitute for clean oil. Used oil contains contaminants that an oil filter is not designed to remove and no filter can removes. The claim made by the manufacturers of premium oils like Royal Purple and Amsoil is only that their products neutralize these contaminants better than cheaper synthetics or conventional oil. Maybe they do, but draining your oil and replacing it with clean oil means that they are not there in the first place in the concentration high mileage creates.
Myself, I own a Japanese car where 5W-30 conventional was original oil. I use either that or 10W-30 and change it every 3000 miles or less. I may switch to semi-synthetic since conventional is becoming less available, but I am only going increase my change interval by 500 miles. Right now, 2500 miles is my preferred interval. With semi-synthetic, I'll make it 3000 miles.
@Peter Angles New oil does not contain contaminants. It's never been in a running engine.
@Peter Angles mayb ur right mayb ur not, long reply was fine, tagging some1's height, weight, skin color, length of reply, mayb not the survey going on here. Short, over short oil changes vs drive it into ground, cheap vs dear oil, came with Model T's when the masses could afford. Nothing new to see here. Stay safe stil in the covid bubble.
Some oils have different additives that make it last longer
The recommended oil change interval on our 2020 Corolla is 10,000 miles. I've been doing it every 5,000. I've also switched to synthetic for our older 2008 Corolla and our daughters 2007 Corolla and change oil every 5k. Now that I'm retired I need to change the oil on the 2008 annually because it is not driven much.
Bottom line oil and oil filters are cheap, engine rebuild not so much. This is one of the few DIY maintenance jobs I'm still able to do other then replacing bulbs.
Watch what The Car Care Nut has to say about the Infamous Toyota oil burning. Change that oil at 5k no matter what and those rings won’t start sticking because they were forced to use too light a tension oil control rings. Once they start sticking you only have a chance to bring it to a halt so always do 5 K no matter what some captured engineer or especially some government says.
To the uninitiated reading this all car companies use these barely adequate rings for a long time now so use a good synthetic oil and change it at 5k. Oil is cheat at Wallymart engines aren’t. Speaking of oil do change the Tranny oil at specified times , usually 60k. That goes double for those CVT trannies!!! Those are all but guaranteed to grenade $6,000+ if you keep them long term and don’t change that oil . You better use EXACTLY what the dealer sells💸too these days for tranny oil.
Look very closely at the fine print for that 10k interval, it is full of exceptions which many (most?) will disqualify - short tripping being the most common.
Why? Do you think your corolla engine is going to die, before the rest of the car does? That engine will probably be the last thing to go, even if you did 15K mile changes. Just a waste of money to change synthetic oil sooner than recommended.
@@GarenP Yes,it's called severe driving.
@@drizler I believe he states 5k miles or 6 mos, whichever comes first....so in the OP's post I would do the oil change every 6 months even if he doesn't hit the mileage requirement.
It's interesting, the recommended oil change interval on my Toyota Prius is 5,000 miles. I've changed it regularly for the last 280,000 miles, and the engine still uses less than a quart of oil between changes. With that low oil consumption, I'm still running my original catalytic converter. I think 5,000 miles is a good compromise between maintenance cost, and longevity. Another thing...Don't skimp on the AIR filter. As important as it is to keep the oil clean, it's equally important to keep the intake air clean! (whether gasoline or diesel)
We typically change the air filter the same time we change our oil and oil filter. Makes a lot of sense since we keep our cars longer in Jamaica.
Good! See Cats don't just fail, they fail because something ahead of it, (engine) has something wrong. Either bad oil maint, not doing plugs as needed, etc.
air filters are a lot more important to replace regularly on new cars and especially any hybrids
@@TheNipSnipper 💯
@@a3300000 Air filters do not become less efficient when they get dirty. On the contrary, they become more so. The problem with excessively dirty air filters is that they reduce the flow of air into the engine, making the engine less efficient, but that doesn't produce more engine wear directly the way asperities do in dirty oil. The additional wear caused by an excessively dirty air filter is due to the engine "working" harder to produce the same power, which is a more subtle form of wear.
The oil change interval is, in large part, dependent upon the vehicle driving mode. I take many road trips where my vehicle is in a steady, highway speed state. The strain upon the vehicle is about the lowest it can experience, therefore, the oil change interval will not be the same as another identical vehicle that rarely leaves the region and is subjected to a lot of stop-and-go driving, especially in colder months and winter.
Agreed 💯
That's why 5k on full synthetic is recommended. Most people are driving in the city and on commute in stop and go traffic. When the manual states 10k/1 year, that's under normal highway conditions. Cut that in half for severe service. and even less if you're idling a lot.
@@LexusJDM350Again, depends. You can go 7,500 miles if mainly highway driving…
@@christophervanzetta that's exactly what I said. It all depends how you drive.
Annual changes are sufficient unless you're doing more than 10-12k miles. Then I'd switch to 10k changes.
Gr8 advice.Owning a vehicle is like owning a home.They both require routine maintenance & inspections. If you're one of those ppl who neglect or ignore that responsibility then you will also be one of those that learn things through the difficult and expensive method.I do my oil changes,every 6 months or 3,000 miles.Transmission every 3yrs or 50,000 miles. Differential fluid every 50,000 miles, transfer case the same,brake fluid every 5yrs or 50,000 miles,Coolant every 5yrs.Belts and hoses every 7 yrs.Maintainence is absolutely key to vehicle longevity. And as expensive as they are its foolish not to take care of them.Like the old saying goes,,,,,,you can pay a little now or alot later.Either way you're gonna pay.Thanks for the video.
5 years on brake fluid? That’s a bit too long in my book. I do 2-3 years as the brake fluid is hydroscopic, i.e. absorbs moisture, so best to replace it frequently no matter the mileage so the brake system components resist corrosion better.
Good reply. I’ve learned to change brake fluid every 30k miles because it’s hydroscopic. It absorbs water molecules from humid air and the water can cause corrosion on metal connectors.
My VW TDI's manual says 7,500 miles. I went in with a programmer and changed it to 5,000 miles. Almost at 222,222! Cant wait to take the picture.
Totally agree. 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am . Bought new. 3000 mile oil changes. Castrol GTX 10 30. Engine has never been touched. Runs and sounds like new. I always change oil this way, and in 45 years of driving, and putting well over 200.000 miles on many cars, v8s v6s, and 4 cylinders, I have never had any engine issues. Transmissions, yes. Engines, never.
If you changed tranny fluid at 60,000 miles you'd get them to last much longer too
@@dougn2350 Yes, ive been doing that for about the last 10 years, every 45.000 miles. Thanks!
Thats great but how often did you do the transmission fluid and filter?
@@dougn2350 but how? And why?
Castrol gtx 10w30 is the best conventional oil ever.
If you follow the 7500-12k mile oil change interval the engines will be out of warranty before you have any major issues and manufacturers are off the hook, they know exactly what they're doing.
Oil related engine failure is rare. Most engines suffer from normal wear and tear. The manufacturers recommendations are very conservative.
@Peter Angles Obviously you have to keep the crankcase full. It’s not an oil related failure if there is none. All engines consume oil and need top off.
My 2008 civic says otherwise at 242,000 miles and counting. I'm a rough driver and used it for amazon delivery and I was extremely hard on it with that. It's holding up with no problems. I've gone as far as 9,000 miles without changing oil.
Also why some dealers will say your transmission fluid never needs to be checked or changed. "It's a sealed unit." Meaning no dipstick. But it should be changed, thankfully I figured this out before I went too far past 70k
@@andrewk8636 yeah it’s really going to come down to each individual persons driving style. That’s why I say 5000 is a safe bet for most people. Some people who are a little more astute and would like to pay attention and remember their driving habits over a period or probably find a stretch it out. i’d like to go between 5000 and 8000 for my interval and I’ve seen the oil look very rough at 5K and I’ve seen it look pretty good at it K doing high miles in a short time span with the engine always coming to operating temperature and staying there is significantly better than the alternative
I live in Jamaica and most of the times we buy used from Japan. We tend to keep our vehicles longer so typically we do our oil changes every 4,000 to 6,000 miles. So I agree with you, car manufacturers want you to buy a new car as often as possible.
Mark Lester, that sounds like the best option, considering the price of new cars. The Japanese cars tend to hold up better, and longer…but, the maintenance must be kept up on a regular basis. I have had Toyotas and Hondas reach over 300K miles with just basic maintenance.
Big up yard!
How is the gas quality there?
In Jamaica is corrosion (rust) a concern much?
@@MyWillypillyCold areas are usually worse for corrosion because the salt used on the roads in the winter creates a far stronger brine on your underbody than any sea spray ever can.
The only thing car manufacturers are concerned about is getting the vehicle to last long enough to get out of warranty. If you plan on keeping your vehicle then stick to 3-5k oil change intervals and transmission 30-45k.
Transmissions 30k or 15k if CVT. I would not go higher than that. The CVT manual states 60k. 60k is usually when they die and require a $6k repair , many cases it's even less.
Rubbish.
Then they don't need a 10k oil change conspiracy... they can just make crappies engines.
Don't plan on following my transmission guildlines...lifetime fluid...yeah life of transmission with planned failure.
I think not all manufacturers are the same. Ford & GM union run shops, sure, they couldn't care less about long term quality.
I believe the Japanese & perhaps Koreans too, are different. They still take pride in the quality of their work & it shows in long-term reliability of their vehicles.
Thank You for your honesty. Walking away without some sort of confusion and having solid information is so rare and priceless these days. I buy my vehicles for their lifetime and success with this long haul approach requires attention to the drive train. I really love the 100000 mile investment sequence you explained so well Thank You Sir......
Yes, manufacturers want to sell cars but they also don't want to pay for any repairs.
True, but these longer intervals are likely not to effect engine longevity until beyond the warranty period. The "lifetime" transmission fluid is a good example. No tranny fluid change until 100K on those trannys, the damage is done and you are now out of warranty.
@@gpaje agree, completely
@@taekwoncrawfish9418 I work on all our vehicles.
@@gpaje Not really, for example in the Prius transaxle, which is just a set of planetary gear sets with 2 electric motors, the fluid in there is just to lubricate these gears, the electric motors and cool them down, and there are Priuses with over 200,000 and even 300,000 miles with still the original transaxle fluid and no issues.
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Not really? I think that applies to the majority of the cars out there, you mentioned the Prius, how many other cars fall into that category versus traditional transmissions?
It was 3,000 when I first started driving. I do 5k intervals now. Mobile 1 and OEM filters have worked well for me. Back in the day we used 10w30, then 5w30, now they want me to use 0w20 under the guise that tolerances are too tight for the thicker oil. They run the thinner oil to achieve .3 more mpg rating. The turbos and all that are just to chase fuel economy.
Preach that truth! 🙌
I remember 10w-40 also. And remember hearing change your filter every other oil change. I never did that just dumb
Should be able to get 12k on an oil change
I use 5w30 now on my old 2 valve 5.4 which was originally recommended. Then they changed to recommending 5w20 for the same engine. Cafe standards. However newer cars and engines are definitely more complex and so have tigger clearances etc.
I would never use 0w20 in any engine! My personal opinion.
I drove a London taxi for 350,000 miles on the original engine, oil changed every 6,000 miles.
Was that taxi a diesel?
@Swan Ford Taxi usage is considered extreme usage... especially in big cities... 90% Stop&Go traffic and the drivers beat on it like crazy
Sorry, but they use kilometers in the UK...
Sorry, we don't. UK speedometers and road signs are in MPH. Even fuel usage us neasured in MPG in the UK. Weights and measurements are in both imperial and metric. Metric is the official way for weights, but many people of a certain age will still weigh in imperial. I am of an age where I can take measurements in centimetres or inches. It is a strange mix in the UK for sure. If you had said that continental Europe used kilometres for vehicle speedometers, trip meters, road signs etc. then you would have been correct.
Before becoming a shop teacher, I spent 7 years as a diesel boat mechanic. That whole time, we never had an engine with problems because the oil was too clean, and changed too frequently.
All my 5th gen Ram 1500 ever sees is Mobil 1, and a new NAPA (WIX) Platinum filter every 6,000 miles.
boats don't have oil drain plugs. Service places strip bolts, damage filter housings, smear oil all over your battery.. spill oil ..happens a lot the more service the more likely it'll happen to you.. Those poor kids ! you're putting them on the wrong path with that type of talk !
I just bought one of the last Ecodiesels (2023 Ram) and I am preparing to do it's first oil change today with Mopar oil filter and Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro-Spec. I plan on doing it again at 3k, 5k and every 5k afterwards. My friend who used to restore cars says this is extreme but neither he (nor I) have ever owned a diesel. In your opinion, is this too much?
Thanks!
@gardnerberry113 I wouldn't think so, however be sure that the eurospec oil is up to API standards that MOPAR wants. There are differences, while I'm not sure about the 15-40, I have been toldd that the euro spec 0-40 specified in the 2500 6.4 Hemi is not the same as the API certified oil. At the very least, it'll cover bases for warranty purposes.
Been doing 5k oil changes and tire rotations for decades now! It's very easy to keep up with also!
I like the interview with the gtr engine builder in Japan. He was OK with using cheap oil even but he wanted you to change your oil every 3000 to make sure it stays clean
which is fucking retarded and just wrong. All of Europe uses 10K intervals and cars last plenty long here.
I drive a 1.8l Japanese engine with 400,000km approaching and I always use synthetic oil pushing 12-14000 km with OEM filters(they're cheap filters and are rated at 16,000km). The engine is strong as ever and I think I can push these oils more but due to high mileage I rather not risk it. I would say its besides mileage, its important to use your professional judgement when checking the usability of the oil.
What brand - model oil do you use ?.
@@mdev8846 The oil change interval is more important that the brand and model. You can use the cheapest oil as long as the back says it meets the oil standards it will be good. If you plan on keeping your car as long as possible(which is the smart thing to do), I would change it every 3,000 miles with the cheapest oil you can find, and the filter every 6,000(to save money) or also do it every 3,000 miles to do it all in the same job.
Curious that the vehicle manufacturers increasing oil service intervals is “a conspiracy”, but a car service center recommending more frequent oil changes is a service to the customer. That said, if your mechanic is honest, it’s not necessarily a bad thing for him to see your car more frequently - particularly on higher mileage vehicles, so that they can monitor things that might become a problem before it actually becomes a problem.
LoL what? Unless your friends or related to the mechanic they aren't monitoring anything. Most are only fixing problems. I know I can see as many as 30+ cars a week, can't remember every single issue on every car.
I mean “monitor” in the sense of you note a condition on the mpi that doesn’t need to be addressed this service visit but the customer will be aware to expect this repair in the future. Customer can ask for an update at the next visit or return specifically for that repair when it’s convenient for them - or wait until they need to be towed in! 😂
@@ghostwrench2292 Exactly correct. Say power steering hose is leaking. Will have to be replaced before next safety inspection. The shop is letting the customer know so they can budget for future repairs.
@@fredted1611 that’s what recommendations are for… I see the same cars all the time and monitor things that are on the recommendations and we even have tec notes in our service writer system that us, the actual tecs only see and use
But, no one ever damaged an engine by changing the oil too soon as long as the correct products were used and the filter and drain plug were installed correctly. You also have to pour the oil in right place. Don't forget that part.
My Audi A6 has 263,000 miles. Always changed with synthetic oil every 8-10,000 miles. My Audi A4 had 275,000 miles when my brother bought it for his kids. This was modified and I ran 23lbs of boost. Changed oil every 5K. My Audi TDI has 130,000 miles. All the engines in these cars ran great and did not burn oil. However, my reasoning for different interval times for oil changes depends on how one drives their vehicle. A lot of miles were on the hwy. I can get longer intervals then, (8-10,000 miles). My boosted A4, (which stock made 170 HP to 300 HP) was every 5K based on how I drove that car, (hard). My diesel, when I am driving shorter trips I change at 7500 miles. When I'm on the hwy a lot it's 10K. So, while I agree with what is being said, take into consideration on how one drives their vehicle. You may need to change every 4K if high load, heat and dirty conditions.
@@bullbutter2931 Let me guess, you don't own an Audi and your a Dem... Only reason why someone would bring politics into an oil change video.
LMAO 🤣 I SERIOUSLY! doubt you have 2 Audi’s with almost 300k on them lol 😂 maybe if both are on their 3rd transmissions etc Audi’s are the biggest German all wheel drive piece of shit out there. And that’s saying something
@@Ryan-vj9bl I tell you what. Let's put your doubt with some money. I'll prove with pictures, mileage and service reports that what I wrote and have. All with original engines, trannys, etc. So start at $1,000 so you are so sure.
Also, how many Audis have you owned to make you claim below?
Oh good to know. Because I thought engine oil is a part of their fuel in Audis and need to be topped up in each gas stop lollllll
You are wrong on all counts. I still own 2 Audi's, I'm not a Dem and I didn't bring any Politics into my comments.
I've been using full synthetic motor oil since 1993. I changed oil every 15,000 miles on my Ranger truck with no issues and sold it with 327,000 miles on it still running good original engine. Then I got a Geo Metro 3 cylinder and changed oil every 10,000 miles with full synthetic and sold that car due to rust at 326,000 miles still running good. My current car is a Honda Accord with 274,000 miles running good with 10,000 mile oil changes. Bottom line is use synthetic oil, never run them out of oil, never run them hot and engines will last a long time. Now these modern turbo engines I feel are a different story. They are running these tiny engines really hard and no amount of oil changes is going to save them. I doubt you will see many turbo charged engines going 200,000 miles without significant engine work being done.
The manufacturer's new specifications normally require a visocity that can only be found in synthetic oil options nowadays. I've likewise used only synthetic even in the models from the 90s but now have a newer model that requires 0W20 that's only available in synthetic but generally stuck to the same branding whenever possible. Any comment on the "newer" stuff?
@@KisAFriend Oils and engines have become very complicated in recent years. Mostly due to turbo engines and direct injection used to get the last mpg out of the engine while making engines smaller and lighter. I'm sure the 0W20 is good stuff for its application but I wouldn't use it in anything that it wasn't called out in the owner's manual. One oil that has my interest is the Valvoline "restore and protect" oil. From what I have read real world testing has revealed reduction in piston and ring carbon build up. This would be super and might bring some old engines that burn oil back to life if it can free the rings.
I used to do 10K mile oil changes, but replaced the filter at 5K and topped off the oil.
I had a Mazda B2300 (rebadged Ranger) with over 300K miles doing this.
Ran fine, did not consume oil.
@@papaske3375 I think my friend also ran the Mazda B____ series pickup. Definitely what the small Civic manufacturers back in the day would make if they also made pickup trucks. I think we over complicate the process also because drivers or users really shouldn’t be following any short of schedule unless they expect to do more or less similar driving routines year in and year out. But really, who stays at any employment role that needs commuting as part of a routine for over 20 years nowadays? Aside from those fancier electronic “oil testers” we have nowadays, I think ultimately the best practices for changing oil still remain with the drivers knowing “it’s about time”…
I use amsoil and their filter
Oil is good for 25,000 or one year
Filter is good for 15,000
Normally I don’t go over 15,000
Once a year oil change
Cost a little more but it’s a great oil and I only have to change it once a year.
Sounds like good advice. More often has to be better. Changing the filters more often is definetly good! Buy some high quality full synthetic oil when its onsale and good quality filters and do it your self. Most people could do it them selves.
i remember bmw require 15k mile oil interval and that didn't go well .
My X5 2004 with the m54 I think mine had the same 15k mile thing, most x5s aren't even on the road and regarded as the most unreliable generation, while mine runs strong, sees occasional hard acceleration, snow donuts and power slides, harsh winters here in the north east, off-roading, been through floods, hauling trailers, 1 hour and 30 commutes daily at one point, it use to get it no further than 6k miles, now I use it once a week and changed at 3,000 miles every 3 months car hasn't given me any issues hope it stays that way. 18 years with it in the family and its still healthy.
Irrelevant, everything else breaks long before the engine does.
I started to do used oil analysis due to owning an airplane, where engine overhauls can reach $60k. My UOA results for passenger cars and light trucks prove that the oil monitor or owners manual recommendations are actually very conservative, even using so called "conventional" oil, which today is really a synthetic blend. This dates back to a 1992 BMW up to my newest, 2010 Honda. We got 300,000 miles on the 1999 Camry without any internal engine or transmission repairs.
So what are you saying?? Your change intervals are longer than manufacturer's recommendations??!!! You never said it!!!
Not during the warranty for sure and would only do so if running a fleet under controlled conditions. I use oil analysis to validate that the manufacturer's interval is ok. Never found it lacking. So much for the "every three months or 3000 miles" crowd.
Tranny is irrelevant to changing engine oil
Right. The only scientific way to determine oil change frequency is oil analysis. Anything else is subjective opinion.
In the business now for about 25 years and couldn't agree with you more! Your advice is especially true and necessary on modern emission controlled diesel cars and trucks!!
Most of the problems come from the long oil change intervals and the oil not being topped off. What is better a 3k miles interval and never having to check the oil level, or a 7.5k mile oil change with 2 qts. Added? 90% of people never check the oil level. All these new cars using 0w20 or now 0w16 oil are burning a large amount of oil and require oil to be added. Add direct injection and a turbo and you get the new honda's and ford turbo's. I have changed the oil on a 1.5l honda accord turbo. 4 k miles 1st oil change the blackest most watered down oil I have seen. These manufacturers have thrown caution to the wind. Soon to be gone are the day's of a bullet proof engine because of manufacturers lying about maintenance requirements.
BEST COMMENT on this subject, FILL UP and CHECK YOUR OIL EVERY TIME. These synthetics are thinner and you will "burn" it. I agree instead of 7.5K just do it at 5K it will pay for itself over the years.
BS I run syn oil in all my cars none of them burn oil.
@@rebelrider220 do a 7500 oil change interval and it will be low no doubt about it.
I thought about that also and opted for a last gen 2017 Camry. I found one with very low miles like new, No DI or turbos, common oil type. People tend to buy what they think is high tech and cool looking without any thought of maintenance. A lot of those Honda engines were getting oil dilution issues also. Now you have hammered oil that also gets thinned out with gas from blow by due to the DI Turbo not warming up, not to mention carbon build up issues with the lack of port injection to clean the air intake valves. No thanks!
The 5k interval saves engine gaskets too. You are removing acids from combustion and moisture from heating and cooling cycles.
You want maximum oil in your oil.
I changed the oil in my 2001 dodge Durango 4.7 once a year with synthetic. 14 years and 260000 miles later it was still running great. Never had to touch the engine.
The Chrysler 4.7 is a great engine , and run forever too
Back when dodge made reliable cars
Almost all engines and transmissions will last through the warranty and especially the first owner which is all they care about. That's their customer. You as the 2nd or 3rd owner of a 100K mile car is not their concern.
It's completely their conc. They want to sell you parts after the warranty. Also there is a brand perception so they can't have a car totally fall apart when it get old. It's a balancing act.
So let me get this straight... Manufacturers are telling us to go longer on oil changes so they can sell us more new cars. But the guy selling the oil changes makes a RUclips video to tell us to do oil changes SOONER! Ain't that the pot calling the kettle black
So let me get this straight ... you followed the Manufacturers recommendation & you need a new car right after the warranty expired
I'm sorry sir. You followed the manufacturer's recommended Mileage interval on replacing spark plugs. We now need the remove your cylinder head because the spark Plugs broke off in it.
@@rogereprest The best one is "lifetime " transmission fluid. Ha ha yeah right only a fool would believe that!
today´s intervalls are defined by the marketing department to be competetiv in the market, especially for leasing customers... they´re not defined by the engine designers
Variable time engines depend on clean oil to work properly.
People also negate the fact that modern GDI turbo engines have a lot of "fuel dilution" if the car makes mostly short trips. Check your oil at around 3000k on a GDI car. The oil will likely smell like gasoline. That's the excess cold start fuel being blown by the piston rings and saturating your oil.
I've had this happen in my 2016 Buick Regal Turbo and 2016 F150 with the 2.7 turbo. Both engines run great but I change the oil when the oil life monitor reaches 50%. Usually about 4,000 miles.
I am a retired mechanic now doing airport transportation. Despite Hyundai‘s problems with their 2.0L turbo and 2.4L engines my 2013 Sonata has 212,000 miles on the ORIGINAL engine and transmission. Valvoline modern engine full synthetic 5W30 every 3,000 miles. Transmission fluid changes every 15,000 miles. I do most of my own service. It’s just starting to consume a small amount of oil (about 1/2 qt every 1,000 miles). Other than that it still runs and drives great! According to the owners manual in a warm region like Florida 10W30 can be used so I’ll be switching over to 10W30 high mileage in an attempt to slow down the oil burning. That 2013 Sonata is now my back up vehicle. I’ve recently purchased a 2020 Mitsubishi Outlander and it will receive the same care only this time by the dealer. I’m getting too old to crawl around under vehicles. On a sidenote the vehicle I traded in was a 1999 Hyundai Accent I purchased new! It’s still ran and drove great when I turned it in! Not bad for a so-called “throwaway car!“
Nice work sir! I too just bought a new 2020 Outlander. Just did a break in oil change at 1,000 miles, cut open the filter to inspect and installed a magnetic oil drain plug. Here’s my video: ruclips.net/video/cw78lH_1EpQ/видео.html
I own a 2014 Santa Fe with a 2.4 the dealer just replaced the complete engine free of charge. I agree with proper oil changes. If I were you I would have bought another Hyundai. My son owned two Outlanders they were totally junk and nothing but trouble.
That’s awesome, have you checked the pcv ? Could possibly be cause to the 1/2 quart most likely not but hey worth a check. Wow great job hoping to get 200,000+ out of our 2020 Tucson 2.0l. Change oil myself every 4K and run a oil catch can 41,000 miles drives absolutely fine. Besides the annoying pinging that happens every now and then for sure in summer Florida unless I run 89 octane goes away but not worth it really to my pockets, nature of the beast runs great though.
Why in the world would you switch from a 5w-30 to a 10w-30? At full operating temp both of those oils are almost dead nutz on for viscosity that meets a “30wt”. By going with a 10w vs a 5w you are just prolonging oil flow to critical parts so thus accomplishing nothing.
I use Mobil 1 0w-40 (it’s a light 40wt that fulfills all requirements of 5w-30) in high mileage Toyota/Lexus/Hyundai/Chevy, and it works beautifully. The side benefit is this oil has been proven to clean dirty engines and especially ring packs, but slowly and gently. It’s also a proven road racing oil and is used in countless German high performance cars. Also “all oils” have seal swelling agents. High mileage oils just contain more, along with more ZDDP, and a slightly stronger detergent additive. You can also add your own to any regular oil (LubeGard Leak Fixx or similar). Won’t hurt the engine one bit.
@@nordicpride9708 I use the Mobile 1 0w40 European blend full synthetic, it has a better additive package than most other oils. A guy that goes by Rat540 performed extensive testing on oils and it tested at the top. I have two 2015 Camaros, both 6.2L and one supercharged, my wife drives a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0 turbocharged, I change her oil at 5,000 intervals and my Camaros once a year which is generally around 3K to 3,500 per year. I have two motorcycles is why the mileage is so low on my cars. The best part is that I get the Mobile 1 from Walmart for $4.92 a quart in the 12 quart box. I would use it in my 1978 Chevy truck but I built the 557 ci big block a little on the loose side on the bearing clearance so I use Mobile 1 15w50 in it and the 565 ci motor in my dragster. I’m 73 and have never ever had anyone other than myself change my oil, especially dealerships, even in the numerous new cars I have bought over the years with “free oil changes” and it has served me well.
Yes, it is a conspiracy theory. Engines evolved, so did oil quality. Im sticking to my manufacturer's manuals.
@@eder60hz51 I'm pretty sure the guy you met wasn't the one working in Audi development bureau. And you're confusing engineers with mechanics.
The mentality of most people nowadays is to only keep the vehicle a certain amount of years because they feel they have to constantly drive the newest thing out there. Very few people buy a vehicle and pay it off. It's usually traded in before then so the manufacturer doesn't care cause that vehicle is gonna make it through warranty period and once it switches hands who cares.
I brought 2006 tundra new. Still have it. It has hail damage and dents all over. I am also millionaire because I like to save money.
Yes you hit the nail on the head.
Yea you are correct, but then a lot of people like being in debt their whole life too!! Cheaper to just take care of your stuff, just sayin.
I have a 2013 Toyota Highlander full synthetic oil, 10K mileage interval, never missed a change, 237K miles on it.
Now I just bought a 2023 Kia Sportage, manual reads 8K mileage interval, called early to schedule an appointment, receptionist said because of area & extreme conditions, 3700 miles is recommended. 👀. Called different dealerships to confirm, got different answers from follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to change at 5K miles. I drive highway miles daily to work approximately 90 miles in total, already at 2850 miles in 35 days, based on the reviews & videos I’ve seen including yours, which I’m inclined to agree with, I’m changing my oil at 5K miles and I’m sticking with it, & it’ll be done at the dealership, because I’m gonna get my 100K mileage warranty out of my Kia. I’ll hit that benchmark in about 4 years or so. Great story, I concur 👍🏾. Thanks 😊
I remember back in the '60's when a car got to 50,000 - 60,000 miles, many people were looking to either have an overhaul or trade it in for a new car. How things have changed!
Back then lot of cheap parts put in engines didn't last. Japanese engines even in the 80's like the Toyota 22RE would go 300k miles. They used steel cranks, and roller cams not cheap junk like the big 3 did. Japanese like Toyota and Honda forced the big 3 to improve their engines.
@@Mike-01234the big 3 have engines from the 60's that have made it into the next century. Engine oil quality and timing chains were the weak point with those engines. But even my fathers car made it to 220,000 on the original plastic timing gears. Rest of the motor was fine.
@@VitoVecciaI remember cars burning oil either rings, or valve seals start leaking. Depends on what kind of driving also highway driving will go further.
@@Mike-01234 this is very true. Operating conditions play a huge impact. My father had to rebuild the engine in his f600 every 30k miles. It was a 330HD, but he refused to split the gears with the 2 speed rear. Everything else he owned was fine.I remember my dad always swore by 2,000 mile oil changes, and 10w40 oil. Before he started his construction company, he worked as a mechanic. It took over 40 years to prove everyone wrong, be he was right about the owners manual: you can't always trust it.
@@Mike-0123480s/90s Japanese engines definitely were pretty indestructible. My old 91 Accord had 430,000 miles on the original engine and trans when I sold it. Still shifted like butter in every gear and had plenty of pickup.
I'm old school, my Father ran his own garage for many years, and back then, it was 3000 miles on an oil change. I know all about how oil has improved over the years and how you can go longer, and I do use full Synthetic in my vehicles, but I still stay between 3 to 4k miles. It's simple, pull your dipstick at 3k and look at the oil, if it's getting dirty looking, it's time to go. Why run oil that looks like it's full of crud? It's really cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned. Some people will say I'm throwing my money away, but have you priced out an engine rebuild? I can change my oil myself and save money there or even take to the shop and have it done for far less than I can replace the engine. I've been known to own a vehicle for 20 years or until the body rots off them, and you can't do that on dirty oil.
Pretty dirty is good! It’s doing it’s job. Unless it’s burnt or has radiator fluid in it. Oil analysis is what I recommend. Get it down to specifics in my opinion
The color of oil means Nothing, it's the texture, thinning that is a concern. Look at diesels. Change the oil, run for 5 min and the oil is jet black. Color means absolutely nothing
@@bluesky-ud9wg I got news for you, diesel oil is already black when it goes in. Regular engine oil is honey color, it gets black after about 3k miles. Hmmm, just about the time it needs changing.
@@Dirthauler65 Uhhhh, sure. I am a Toyota MDT, (look it up) of 21 years, I assure you I know what I'm talking about....
Dorthauler!!
Can you please let me know that I am using KIXC 20W-50 semi-synthetic heavy diesel engine oil in my suzuki celerio gasoline 2007 after engine re-build. There is no oil leakage/issue. Normally oil changing frequency is 3000-3500 km. Should I switch to Liquimoly on which grade??
On my 2013 Toyota Corolla, I let the dealer do oil changes during the warranty period. The free maintenance Toyota provides, where you return every 5000 miles, only has them replacing the oil every 10,000 miles. So in reality you only get two free oil changes. After the warranty I started changing my own oil every 5000 miles. I now have 300k+ miles on this car. The only engine issue was a head gasket leak, that was not oil related.
My father's business partner purchased a new 1972 Ford pickup and drove it for 174,000 miles, never changing the oil or filter once. All he did was add oil and keep it at proper capacity. He always drove it like he stole it. I certainly don't follow this practice but I have always changed the oil and filter in my vehicles at 20K. Most were Hondas that went close to or over 200K and my present car is a Lexus RX350 at 190K miles and going strong.
Oil breaks down so regular oil changes are only better for your engine.. Its up to you buddy..
@@reneclaasen6706 Technically oil doesn't "break down", it becomes polluted over time with foreign material, rendering it less effective in lubrication. Recycled oil is simply filtered of those pollutants. I don't mind that folks change their oil every 2K miles - that practice is very good for my oil investments.
You'd better be using premium products. Also, consider what kind of driving you are doing and consider what constitutes severe duty.
@@BashoStrikes not 100% true
@@AEVMU a lot of things aren't 100%.
"Listen to me b/c I have this completely unsubstantiated conspiracy theory"
Right with no explanation of what it actually is lol
EVERY SINGLE MANUAL of EVERY SINGLE car I drove, ACTUALLY states the LONG intervals are jn ideal conditions only. Each manual had an asterix next to the high mile number and if you jump to the explanation of the asterix, it basically tells you to HALF the interval if driven in one of the following: and then proceeds to name EVERY driving scenario except pure highway driving.
So NO the manual not trying to fool you, it's just that people read them at a glance and the dealers don't tell you to read the fine print.
I do changes twice a year, or roughly every 3.000-5.000 miles, BECAUSE my manul states to do, and never had any problems with any of my cars. Current one has been with me 15 years, since new and still drives problem free
The claim that manufacturers want you to ruin engines is comical. By the same logic what do repair shops want, they want you to do more service more often 🤔
If I follow procedure and my car dies my brand loyalty dies. Manufacturers spend too much money to earn loyalty to give it up like that. But then again Ford still makes crap vehicles so who knows maybe you are right about some companies 😂
We bought a 2015 Honda CRV and followed the oil change intervals which have been closed to 10k miles. It now has 150k miles and it uses quite a bit of oil. I keep it full but our next CRV will get the oil changed more often.
I’ve been using Mobile 1 Full Synthetic with 7.5-10k mile intervals on the last 5 vehicles. I sell my cars around 185k, but usually to friends or family. All of the my old vehicles have over $250k miles and still run great! Stop trying to take peoples hard earned money by recommend needless oil changes. Cars now have much larger oil capacity’s then older vehicles as well.
oh my god, just dont start the brand fanboy stuff... Use the oil that meets manufacturer specifications, and thats all, you dont need expensive stuff, and many times brands doesnt even have oil that covers all the actual car specifications. Dont just look at the viscosity, the additives are also very important, and these differs from oil to oil, also there are other specifications like the ACEA C3 or C5 (in Europe) that have to pass to be compatible .
I'm nicer than some people. If your change interval is 7500 miles, you don't need to use an upmarket synthetic oil. Any name brand will do - Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker, Chevron or whatever. If you want to pay for Mobil 1 it's your business though. If you're going to the full 10,000 miles then maybe its time to think upmarket. I'm conservative in my theories. I have a 21 year old import. I use semisynthetic and set the drain interval at 2800 miles. It's too easy to work on to try anything different. My home oil change costs me about $15. A local tire chain will do it for $19.95 with dino oil. When you need synthetic, the shop price starts to jump at lot.
Yesss!
@Peter Angles 2800 is reasonable with dino or semi. Most of the time, my driving is all short trips. That represents severe duty.
I like your analogy of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd 100,000 mile intervals.
Two cars over 200,000 miles doing oil changes every 3000 miles using conventional oil. One car never burned a drop. My current car has 145,000 miles using conventional oil and it doesn't burn a drop between changes. Over the years I've used all the oils. The main oils were Quaker State and Pennzoil 10w-30s. Today I'm using Valvoline 5w-20. They are all good oils if your change intervals are 3000 miles. Now I've never had a HP engine or turbo and from what I understand such engines require synthetics so I wouldn't recommend conventional oils in those engines but I'd still recommend 3000 mile intervals. The reason being is because oil becomes diluted over time by raw fuel blowing past the piston rings and entering the crank case. And then there are the other contaminants that cause your oil to turn black. The longer one waits to change their oil.........................
I've even heard people say that their cars don't start burning oil until they reach a certain amount of mileage like 4000 miles or 5000 miles. This makes perfect sense! The oil has thinned do to fuel dilution. If your car is doing this consider changing your oil every 3000 miles. And always change your oil filter when you change your oil. It doesn't cost that much more. Same goes for your synthetics oils. They don't cost that much more then conventional oil anymore, so why not?
They aren't lying at all, technically at least. Oil changes are actually ok, I hypothesize, given the right conditions, every 8-10k miles. I am not sure even then it is ok, however, a majority of the time, 8-10k is not ok, and that's according to their guidelines. According to Toyota and Kia at least, if severe conditions are involved, recommended oil change intervals are to be cut in half; and those conditions are:
(Especially pay attention to a, b, f, and k)
"Severe Driving Conditions
A : Repeatedly driving short distance of less than 8km(5 miles) in normal temperature or less than 16km(10 miles) in freezing temperature.
B : Extensive engine idling or low speed driving for long distances.
C : Driving on rough, dusty, muddy, unpaved, graveled or salt-spread roads.
D : Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
E : Driving in heavy dust condition.
F : Driving in heavy traffic area.
G : Diving in uphill, downhill, or mountain roads repeatedly.
H : Towing a trailer or using a camper on roof rack.
I : Driving for patrol car, taxi, other commercial use of vehicle towing.
J : Driving over 170km/h(106mph).
K : Frequently driving in stop-and-go conditions."
You’re absolutely correct!
Toyota, of all manufacturers, (maybe this is just the American dealers?) says there “sealed transmission “ fluid never needs changing. 😳
It’s a machine!!!
It requires fluid!
Clean fluid!
Ford Europe has the same BS.
"Lifetime" transmission oil. No need to change, no drainplug..
Volkswagen and Ford claim the gearbox is filled for life. Rubbish
Of course they want the lifetime of the car to be 100K, not 500K. They will do what they can and hope for the worst.
@@patrickcannell2258
Ford & VW are rubbish to begin with. 😂
Jeff, I’ve been a gear head ever since I got on a bicycle & through the ownership of my various vehicles brands, my oil service intervals has changed from 3K to 5K after doing a little research.
Jeff your saying even with synthetic change it every 5000 miles period?
Yes change it at least somewhere around 5,000 miles. Less won’t hurt either. Best insurance for your engine is clean oil.
@@arthursmith643 no,changing perfectly good oil does not help your engine at all
@@PatChapp after 5000miles new oil is always better than used oil
So much cheaper and better in the long run.
You need to listen to Scotty Kilmer 3000-5000 Miles.
Really simple stuff,if you want to know how your oil is doing send it to a lab. $40 or so for a full test,will let you know roughly how long your oil will hold up. Been doing 15k km changes for years, tests fine with a safe tbn and reasonable wear metals. A 15k change with 3x the wear metals of a 5k change is not a bad thing.
So spend $40 to extend the life of a $40 oil change? Yeah.... ill just go ahead and change the oil for the $40
Oil analysis is a much better investment than an unnecessary oil change. Let's you know if something is starting to go bad before it's gets expensive.
@@PatChapp lolol you know changing the oil usually stops those problems before they become expensive too ?
Maybe one a year but 5kmi changes aren't exactly breaking the bank
@@stevemasterson7776 so oil changes can tell you about a very slightly leaking headgasket? On one of my titans I had one of the headgaskets leaking coolant into the oil,not enough to go milky or cause any noticeable issues yet. My yearly oil analysis detected it. Saved me from an engine locking up.
@@PatChapp so now it's a yearly thing? Okay that's a bit different than what you described... I said once a year sure but other than that 5kmi oil changes is the best mechanic money can buy
I wanted to change the oil in my car at 5k but the service person at the Stealership told me to wait until 8k interval. And I was paying from my pocket, very strange.
Take it elsewhere. Never settle and spend your money where you feel appreciated and your vehicle is properly serviced.
Agreed, I have changed oil in ALL my vehicles every 5,000 miles for the last 37 years.
I leased a 2019 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4…the owners manual states the oil to be changed every 5,000 miles or 6 months…whichever comes first…
Often ignored but needs to be considered is the severity of service your engine is exposed to. Most of my mileage on both of my vehicles is back and forth to work twice a day 15 minutes each time in urban traffic. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles with inexpensive yet reliable Walmart super tech synthetic. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
There also "safety factor." If the OCI is 7.5k...you're probably still "good" from a fluid perspective if you didn't change it but every 9k, just for example.
Yes but no its not just about having the correct amount but the quality oil as well i dont mean the best oil but from new to used cleaner the oil the better
Using cooking oil in your vehicle can lead to several problems. Cooking oil does not have the necessary additives and detergents found in motor oil, which can result in increased engine wear, poor lubrication, and buildup of sludge and deposits. It may also cause increased friction and heat, leading to engine overheating and potential damage.
very well put. I am a tech with over 40 years experience and couldn't agree with you more. while I will soon retire I try to educate as many people as possible about this topic. Its difficult with todays kids taking anything they read from the manufactures as gospel.
So you have seen cars engines go, because they changed the oil at the recommended intervals, instead of 3k miles lol?? Never happen. Unless you are very negligent, your engine will most likely last longer than you want to keep driving the car. Transmissions, body rot/damage, exhaust etc, will all go before.
@@micker9830 Yes, all the time. Lots of timing chain and turbo issues with long oil change intervals. Lots more intake valve carbon deposits. Breather problems. Camshaft problems. Oil pump inlet issues. Lots of issues.
It' really quite infuriating. The carbon footprint of unnecessary maintenance, especially oil changes and tires are dramatically contributing to climate change. I can't have a dishwasher that actually works, but I need to do expensive unscheduled maintenance. Firstly literally no one exercises the powertrain warranty, because they are so reliable. As far as who knows best, I guess I will go with the engineers that actually designed the vehicle. I know why you are contradicting them. Any vehicle made in the last 10 to 15 years will easily go 200,000 miles my simply following the owner's manual recommended service interval.
OLM Oil Life Monitor shows 50 percent means 50 percent of your oil is worn out. When it reads 30 percent that means your oil is 70 percent worn out.
Not true. Oil life monitor is based off driving habits and not the lubrication capabilities.
Then who needs the OLM? If the OLM tells you to change your oil why go by it You could have thousands of miles to go if it doesn’t measure the quality of the oil. I don’t use my monitor I change my oil and filter when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Cost for me to do it myself with full synthetic oil and a quality oil filter about $25.00.
@@arthursmith643 I do mine myself as well. Better to go off milage and age. OLM is a dummy lights
Good information, as example the amount of timing chain issues these days across all manufacturers can be directly attributed to these long oil change intervals being pushed
👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👆👍👍👍
truth... fresh oil = less wear on tensioners etc
Especially for Direct injected engines that spray fuel at a high pressure directly into the cylinder which forces fuel past the rings into the oil pan accelerating oil degradation. They have developed a new oil standard "ILSAC GF-6A" that is made to resist fuel due to DI now becoming common and a lot of premature engine failure due to it. I followed the recommended oil change interval in my DI car at at 80,000 miles it started burning too much oil and running bad. Now I have to rebuild the engine and I will never follow the extended drain interval ever again and will make sure to only use ILSAC GF-6A oil that was never available in the years I drove that car.
I worked with Japanese automakers...in the 90s is when they started testing extended intervals. The extended intervals were driven by environmental regulations pushed by govt and environmental groups and also by customers who didn't want to get maintenance so frequently. Better manufacturing and better oils made it possible to extend the interval. As you know, the Japanese makers are all about reliability and durability FIRST so they tested and tested and tested. Result was that the short interval of 3k to 5k miles did have less wear than the extended 6k to 7.5k interval...but the wear at the extended interval was well within spec. So you don't need to change more often than the recommended interval. You can if you want, all men are free! But no kidding, you're not gaining much.
I'm not speaking for the U.S. big three makers...with possible and limited exception of Ford. I'm sure they benefited from the same tech improvements as Japanese and that 3k miles is overkill now...but I just don't buy their products. Worked with them too...their specs are always "good enough"...while Japanese were always, "as great as possible."
7k is probably fine 10k seems excessive in the vvti erra
You are correct. “Within spec” is a good balance between maximizing the life of the vehicle and preserving our planet. Draining Mobil 1 at 3K or 5K is simply selfish.
That is why I am sold on Japanese cars, specifically Honda's. I grew up driving GM's ( I am 61 years old). Always took care of my cars, regular oil changes, etc etc. EVERY SINGLE GM i owned , at around 80-90-K, something major would ALWAYS go wrong: Head gasket, trans, etc and they all leaked oil too.
I switched to Honda's about 25 years ago, have had a few. two over 100K and still running strong when I sold them, have an Accord with 115k on it runs PERFECT. NO issues, no major break downs, no oil burning, and they do not leak a single drop of anything. Why can't GM or Ford do this consistently like the Japanese do?
@@nashb5638
Ever heard of "designed obsolescence"?
@@nashb5638 that stuff still goes wrong on GM...
I 100% agree and people won't listen to me when I talk to them about the same thing that you just said in this video
Wish people would close mouth and open ears sometimes and just listen to what's going on in the field
These manufacturers are telling people that they can go 10-15 thousand miles between oil changes because they know they're going to sell another vehicle when the motor fails
Here's a video that I put out yesterday on the 1.5 EcoBoost because I showed people what inside the motor looks like at 16,000 18,000 40,000 60,000 and all the sludge buildup at 5000 mile oil change intervals
When you have these small little turbo engines and you don't understand how they're supposed to be driven they need to be serviced much much sooner
Anyway here's a video I just put out on the explanation of the 1.5 L ecoboost engine the Ford Fusion and Ford Escape motor as well as overseas they use it in the Ford Focus
ruclips.net/video/cdg0czlZJ74/видео.html
My car has a variable oil change monitor and is usually kicks at about 6800K on a 10K synthetic oil as I drive hard. I really never considered this an issue and have no oil consumption or leaks on my 250K engine. I have also not had to put a high mileage oil in the vehicle.
You do know all these oil monitors in cars are nothing more than a mileage counter and if they got fancy they programed them to also record the speed and average time the ignition was on. None of them actually analyze the actual oil, you have to send a sample to a lab to do that and if you do guess what? The lab will 99% of the time tell you that your oil was in great shape and could go longer.
This was a well done video for a shop to make. I’m Canadian and I change my oil around 5,000km but will go up to 7,000km if my driving was pure economy and not over heating the oil. If I’m having fun and driving hard the most is 5,000km or sooner, I also run slightly thicker oil in the summer and when I know I’m gonna be in higher rpm range for long periods of time.
Really, it's all just a guess unless you're doing oil analysis. You can figure out a good baseline change interval for each particular vehicle and engine based on that.
I got ‘20 Tacoma, my manual stated 1st oil service @ 10K unless truck is driven short distances at low ambient temps (which I qualified for) than 5K. I wouldn’t mind having a lab look at the oil @ 10K, visually it looks normal brown burn cycle color.
On my Toyota I usually go between 4500 and 7500 miles depending on how I've driven I've seen the oil totally shot at 4500 mi and still be relatively golden and translucent at 7500 mi, there's a couple of Toyota Master techs on RUclips who say to change it every 5,000 mi That's pretty much for the lay person If you want to regularly check it and are mindful of how you drive I think you can stretch it out further than 5,000 but they have said that on the 10K intervals they've seen the cars burn oil in higher mileage, and of course this is all hinging on the notion that you plan on keeping this vehicle for an extended period of time and are not just leasing it
I took delivery of my new 2021 Tacoma TRD Pro (in Canada) and the dealer (and maintenance manual) recommended oil change interval is 8000kms (5000 miles). I previously owned a 2008 Tacoma and always changed the synthetic oil every 8000kms. Unusual Canadian and USA “standards” vary to that degree....perhaps an across the board climate consideration🤷♂️
@@gerrytaylor5137 I think You hit on the issue “climate considerations”. I got my truck during winter, the maintenance manual states “if driven for less than 7 miles and short trips in cold ambient temperatures” every 5000 miles (which I qualified for) otherwise every 10000 mi.
10k is too long.
"So why am I contradicting what the vehicle manufacturer stated?"
Because I sell oil changes.
The used Camry I bought has a recommended OCI at 10k with the 0W20 oil. Although its synthetic I know better. I might let it go 7.5k that's it.
Change the oil and filter l every 3000 miles with a high quality oil. If it's a well-built vehicle, the engine will run well and last a very long time with minimal issues.
Hello.
What’s your recommendation on the first oil change of a new car when you’re still breaking-in an engine? Change it at 1000 miles or later? Thanks.
1000 miles , no more
Definitely earlier. There's no such thing as too early, but I'd say at 500 hundred miles, then again at 2k miles, then ever 5k miles after that.
I did 750, then 3500...now at 5k with positive oil findings.
@@blondebimbomarkusyour statement would be wrong as too early is never too early enough, as the breaking oil needs to go a certain amount of miles or driving conditions in order to seat the rings and other components inside the engine so changing the oil too soon could risk those critical parts not being properly seated
In my opinion, a big reason for extended oil change intervals per manufacturers is government told them they had to be more environment friendly. OK, we'll just double the oil change interval, saving lots of oil. Just type a different number in the manual.
Replaced all my oil with maple syrup and haven't looked back.
My mechanic friend emphasised that good, clean, fresh oil is imperative. So I have always changed my oil inbetween the recommended mileage/kms or every 6 months even when under new car warranty. I have NEVER had an engine problem with any car I have owned (propably in excess of 20 cars both modern and classics). For the sake of $50ish it is the cheapest insurance in the world.
I drive 80 miles a day 5 days a week that's 9,600 miles every 6 months. I have a 2000 dodge durango that I bought used it now has 296,000 miles on it. I use 5w30 full synthetic changed anywhere between 7,000 and 9,000 miles. ZERO ISSUES
Lol besides the noisy ass engine
Full synthetic can go 8-10k in most conditions. Not listening to the owners manual is not wise. Oil changes every 3k/3 months is a waste imo. Poor dinosaurs
@@paulwilliams6534
Well alot has happened in 10 months bud. Durango got T boned and totalled. Now I have a 12 focus DI motor, 5w20 full synthetic changed every 3 to 4k. Why? It's a DI motor (direct injection) with a poor PCV system. There as dirty as a diesel engine.
What I am trying to say is every engine is different, some will do 7 to 9k. And some just won't, if you want it to last. Research is key.
@@fredted1611Sorry to hear about that man. Im on my 3rd DI car, a 19' GTI. I'm very aware they're dirty engines. Carbon/oil deposits on the valves will require cleaning around 60-80k miles on VAG vehicles or sooner. The PCV system is good and I've sent my oil to get analyzed at 8k and barely shows oil breakdown. Is your oil pretty dirty at 3k? I also higher grade than oem oil.
So you spoke and showed absolutely no proof of your claims. Theres another conspiracy theory, your shop makes more money if people come more often to get their oil changed. I can make that claim and have no proof as well. I have a 2014 Sprinter with close to 140k miles running great doing oil changes every 15k miles with synthetic as it is recommended by Mercedes Benz. No engine failure or anything wrong with the oil as it comes out.
5000 is ideal. 90 percent of people drive severe service intervals. My 2020 Corolla hatch xse says 10000 for normal and 5000 for severe. 5000 is perfect and oil is cheap af. I do it every other change because toyota changes it free every 10000 miles.
I would like to look inside of any engine with 3,000 -5,000 mile oil changes to your engine and see the difference in wear and cleanliness.
@@arthursmith643 I would too. However fuck it. I'd rather change it then. I love to change my oil anyways for some reason lol
140.000 is not really alot. I have 348.000 miles on my 94 Trans Am I bought new. Lt1 engine. 3000 mile oil changes religiously. Castrol GTX 10 30. The engine has never been touched, even the timing chain is original. It runs, and sounds like new. And uses no oil. It has never failed to pass California emissions test,, which is very strict.. I doubt you'll get that many miles on your engine with that long of oil change intervals.
@@johnfranklin5277 this is more along the lines of what I tell people. I just do 5000 at the most though.
Hyundai’s severe usage schedule is every 3000 miles / 6 months oil change. And pretty much everyone falls under severe usage. So definitely better to change more frequently
Finally someone else who gets it. What year do you have?
@@jdinn32 ... I have owned 5 Hyundai cars and always do 4000 mile intervals. Most of my driving is highway trips of 15 miles or more, very few short trips.
I've never had an engine problem even with the dreaded 2.4 theta II in my Sonatas.
Currently own a '21 Sonata 2.5 but that's an all new engine from the Genesis group.
I baby my cars... always let them idle for 30 to 60 seconds before dropping it gear. Never drive it hard until its fully warmed up(but after its warmed I drive the piss out of them).
Hyundai makes great cars if you understand them and maintain them.
I thought their schedule was change engine every 50,000 miles 😂
@@craigiefconcert6493 you've obviously never owned a hyundai. your "thought" doesn't really matter in the big picture
Hmmm my 2023 Sonata owner's manual says 5k for severe or 7500 miles for synthetic oi and they list Quaker State
It depends if it's City driving or highway driving what your oil interval changes should be
I did over 244,000 miles on my f150. Oil a filter every 3,000 miles. 5w-20 synthetic blend. Was still running great when i sold it.
good, bought a 2k f150 new, now has 487k, oil changed every 2500 mi.
@@jamesself2409 what year? What engine?
@@dougregan4752 2000 year 4.2 6 cylinder.
@@jamesself2409 great engine I had that engine in my 2001 and 2002 f150's.
Wow, my 2001 car has only 113k miles... put ONLY 3k last year ... COVID and stuff. I change as the book at every 10k. Engine is running Great. Semisynthetic.
I agree with andym1594. I have owned numerous cars during my 40 plus years of driving. I have yet to see one fail due to engine wear. It is always some other unrelated expensive repair. For the past 20 years I have followed the recommended oil changes in the owner's manual. My 2005 Toyota Corolla lasted 205,000 mi without burning a drop of oil. Unfortunately it was totaled in an accident. My 2009 Toyota sienna has 180,000 miles on it and does not burn any oil at all. My 2013 Honda Accord has 170,000 mi on it. It did have an oil consumption issue which I found was related to the PCV valve. Once that was changed, the oil consumption was no longer an issue. I thank the internet for that diagnosis. I will continue to change my oil based on the owner's manual.
You are right! Oil changes are very low cost considering vehicle cost! I hear you on the warranty issue!
8,000 km is my time for Changing oil. Infiniti QX60.
Well shops need to sell too so who do we listen to? Vehicle manufacturers or the mechanic shops telling you to come in sooner?
One way to know for sure is have an oil analysis done on your next oil change. They will tell you if the oil still has life or is past due and also let you know what else they find floating in the oil that shouldn't be there.
Shops aren’t going to get rich off oil changes. They’re much more likely to get rich from the expensive repairs that result from extended oil changes.
@@Starman-yt8lj you’re telling me that these shops have absolutely no stake in customers coming in every 5k-8k miles for an oil change? Cmon that’s just naive.
@@Starman-yt8lj oh yeah ? So why is there so much oil change places ? They tell you to come a lot and then over-sale you on brakes and other things...
Shops don't make money on expensive repairs because no ones to them, by the time it appends it's either under warranty or not worth it so the car is not getting repaired.
Or change the oil yourself and know for sure
Yep great advice 👍. Oil is cheap to change but an engine replacement is very expensive.
I have been doing servis on trucks sens 30 years back , i have a rule , if you drive youre car 1 hour per day you need to change the oil twise per year and on diesels fuelfilter to . The reson is simpel you change the oil to make the engine last longer and the oil is cheap compered to change the motor . The oils are alot better today cant deny that but the engine leavs dirt in the oil , the longer intervals gives more dirt in the same amont of oil and filtrering as you hade in the cars 15 years ago. To day they make the motors use more less and less fuel and with that comes oilconsumtion with the fact of using pistonrings with less cylinderwall pressure and by that you have eaven more dirt from combustion in to the oil , so to make it simple , go back to basics and change the oil to make youre car last longer . 1hour drive per day 2 oilchanges per year is my personal recomedation to you and use OEM filters and recomended oil , dont go cheap on oil and filters.
My 2013 f150 5.0 had 260k miles and has had 26 oil changes, Never have had a problem. mobile 1 synthetic(15000 mile now says 20000 mile) with mobile 1 long life filter Some say the manufacturer of vehicles say 10k oil changes to wear out the motor faster I dont find this to be true. However, I find oil shops encouraging 5k mile oil changes to sell more oil and filters. It costs me about $120 per oil change 8 quarts plus a filter. $3120 in 10 years or $6240 in 10 years......I feel like im coming out ahead.
You're getting ripped off, mobile 1 for 8qt should be under $50 and oem oil filter around $7, that's $57 (DIY). Had I have to pay $120 for each, I'd probably be doing 10k oil changes like you.
Back in the late '90s, I watched an episode of 60 Minutes, or another similarly themed program. It might have been 48 Hours. I don't recall for sure which it was. Well, this particular story raised this very question. With that, Consumer Reports magazine was hired to do an experiment testing what the oil change might be, based on their own testing. The whole idea was to challenge the then recommended 3000 mile service interval that fast-lubes nearly all insisted on.
They purchased ten brand new taxi cabs (I do not recall the make or model of the car), and in cooperation with a NY city cab company, went on a strict service schedule with each of these ten cars. The oil was changed every 6000 miles for 60,000 miles. Each car was serviced with a different brand of oil--from budget to the priciest synthetic. The common denominator was that all ten oils were API certified.
After driving the 60,000 miles. each of the engines was disassembled and examined for wear. NONE of the ten engines showed "significant wear".
Their conclusion was that the recommended oil change of 3000 miles at fast lube chains was unnecessary, and to use the recommended service schedule printed in your car owner's manual.
If people want to waste money on too frequent oil changes, it's their prerogative. But think about what this fellow's angle is. By what he is saying, he's alleging that the car manufacturer doesn't want their engines to last, so they can sooner rather than later sell you a new car. Hmm. And who do you think is benefiting from the advice that this mechanic is offering?
Don't you think that car owners will take note of cars that have short lived engines? Recall that Consumer Reports and other entities rate cars based on reliability, among other factors. There are such reports for virtually every car made going back, probably, fifty years. Wouldn't the manufacturers want people to know that their cars are dependable, and won't need a premature engine change--or that they will have to junk their car before they even make 100,000 miles? Think about how much more dependable and long lasting most modern cars are compared to those from the 1970s or earlier. I'm old enough to recall those cars. You were lucky to see 100K miles with any of them.
I cannot say with certainty that this fellow is right or wrong. But he has a vested interest in giving the advice that he's giving. And by the way, I have noticed in recent years that the fast-lube places no longer push the 3000 mile interval, because consumers got wise to them based on investigative stories like the one I mention, and probably via other sources such as magazine articles and the like.
For the past couple decades, or more, I have had my oil changed every 5000 miles. That is more often than recommended, so I too, may be throwing money away. But in a nod to this mechanic's advice, I am erring on the side of prevention rather than early car retirement. What is the best interval? Hell if I know. I'm not an automotive engineer.
Or maybe he's looking out for his customers,a39.95 oil change or a 4,000 engine, cheap insurance
@@zeno5689 Did you even read my comment?
Sounds like you're trying to cite the famous CR study of 75 NYC taxis for 2 yrs and 4.5 million miles. It was an oil comparison study with changes at 7500 mi. and showed that even synthetic oil was not superior to even the cheapest appropriate API certified oil. Common oil additives were just the usual snake oil. The results should not have been a surprise to anyone but, for a lot of people, motor oil is more of a religion than science. Maybe we should call it The Church of Engines are Expensive and Oil is Cheap.
@@wholeNwon That must be the same study. I didn't realize that it was 75 cabs! That's a thorough test!
Anyway, I have watched Jiffy Lube clerks up-sell unsuspecting customers more expensive "high mileage", semi-synthetic or full sythetic oil. I sat there in the waiting room watching this play out, while only moments earlier I had told the clerk that I only want the basic oil--NOT the more pricey semi or full synthetic (the car I owned at the time was coming up on 100K miles). It pissed me off as these people were being bamboozled, but in the marketplace, pulling the wool over customer's eyes comes with the territory. It's the price we pay for a moderately regulated system of commerce. That, and the fact that we Homo sapiens cannot help ourselves in the deeply seated impulse to enrich ourselves at other's expense. That trait will never go away! So, that requires systems of commerce and trade to have regulations enacted by governments .
I always scoff and chuckle at the opinions of those who think that the invisible hand of the '"free market" is a self correcting force that keeps everybody honest and doing the right thing. "We need less regulation and less government" they cry! Sometimes that is true. Sometimes it is not.
I now have two vehicles with each just over the 100K mile mark. I get my oil changed every 5000 miles with regular oil and will continue doing that until I sell them.
Been changing mine once a year with 20,000 mile full synthetic oil for years with no problems, old and new cars.
I've been a professional mechanic for 37 years. I have seen too many engines to count, fail from improper maintenance, mostly lack of oil changes, in those almost 4 decades. And I mean failures directly linked to the lack of proper maintenance. I have never seen changing the oil too often cause a failure. As cheap as an oil change is and as expensive as a major repair is it makes sense to change the oil at the proper time. Most fleet departments have a 5000mile/6 month interval and if the vehicle has an hour meter then it overrides everything else as it is the true measure of oil life. And you will find those stories of the guy who never changed his oil and got 300k miles out of his old truck or the guy who changed his oil every 10k miles and got 278k miles. And this happens but it is rare. I personally change my oil at 5000 miles and for someone like my 92 year old mother who only drives 1000 miles a year I change it every spring. But today so many people simply trade their cars off at 70k miles so for them it really isn't as important.
Your last sentence is exactly why I won't buy a used car with more than 5000 miles. LOL
@@dougn2350 And virtually nobody does a break in oil change at less than 1000 miles unless they are a gear head that watches videos like this.
I get bored of a car after a few years, so don’t really care about oil intervals. Car gets serviced once a year, and that’s it
The proper interval between oil changes is like an asshole, we all have our own (opinion on what it is). There are so many variables involved, there is no such thing as an exact number of miles or length of time. The same can be said of different brands of oil with the same specs. Change it whenever you think you should, don't try to convince anyone else to do the same and we'll all be happy.
Agreed.
Driving style, climate, air conditions, traffic conditions, frequency of driving, elevation and even the day of the week the engine was built at the factory ALL play a roll in determining the oil change interval.
But, no one has ever damaged an engine because they changed the oil too soon, so long as they used the correct products and installed the filter correctly.
@@anonymike8280 All true except for the period of "dry start" which is definitely longer than when an engine has already run with the oil in the crankcase. Those few extra seconds produce an exceptionally high percentage of wear, definitely more than at any other time the engine is turning over.
@@frankmiller95 Not in my vehicle. In my vehicle, the filter drains 100 percent just sitting. It makes no difference. Also, there is always residual oil in the bearings and in the cam area.
I consider the idea a "Dr. Doom" scenario. You have to start the engine after you change oil. Sometime you have to start the engine in very cold weather (but not where I live). Sometime you have to start an engine that has been sitting for a very long time. Sometimes even decades.
It also how much you drive AKA the age of the oil. If you drive a ton, you can get away with more miles between oil changes. For example I'm a rideshare driver so I drive about 5,000 mi a month. So my oil is never very old.. So I've been going about 15,000 mi between oil changes on super premium oil and a super premium filter. No issues yet but I'll let you know if that changes
Thank you Jeff will change my oil every 5,000 miles dealerships wants me to change it every 7,500 miles not buying that.
Your welcome John. Thank you
I'm doing 7.5k for last 65 miles and have zero issues. 3000k miles oil change is a waste.
@@krecikowi see you on your you tube video at around 100.000 miles for your rod knock video...
@@johnfranklin5277I do 10k miles on my 2000 Honda accord with over 200,000 miles...using full synthetic 5w30...low consumption and engine quiet and smooth...which I purchased back in April 2000...
Best always doing an oil analysis to figure out how often you need to change your oil based around your driving style and climatic conditions, they're worth their weight in gold
I only use synthetic Amsoil on all my vehicles. I change oil every 5k miles in my wife’s sports car and my three trucks. I change oil on my GoldWing every 5k miles and every 3k miles on my Harley. I am anal about maintaining my vehicles. All run like new.
@Peter Angles ... I bet you feel better getting that off your shoulders
I was in the repair business from 76_2018 over 40 years from 76 until 2005 engines would go bad bearing ,cam,cracked heads around 2000 most engines failed because of coolant went bad and killed the newer engine delete cylinder engine and turbo need fresh oil and the gm,v6 timing chain.this was just starting when I left.flushing the coolant was something no one looked at I think it killed a lot of cars
I think it still does..As long as Coolant is changed often, and more often than recommended with the exact OEM recommended coolant for that vehicle, people generally won't have cooling system issues..If a car today begins to overheat, damage is almost immediately occuring...The vehicle must pull off the road and engine stopped Immediately..It's so important to change coolant regularly along with making it a habit to look at the coolant Guage periodically while driving..A majority of people today have zero clue about the mechanics or physics involved in prolonging the life of their vehicles..One would think that with an average US car payment of 600 a month for 66 months, they would be interested in such things..
They aren't..They're more interested in their Audio System 😂