It’s recommended to wash your bed with dish soap every now and then. I normally clean with isopropyl alcohol but occasionally start having adhesion issues. Wash with dish soap and water and off to the races again.
Really thought the "rub glue all over the thing" idea was an inside joke used to haze those new to the hobby. This is exactly the reason I waited so long to get into the hobby.
I'm new to this, and had same issues too. The reason i found out is my gantry was not perfectly square (i had to disassemble it for transport) I identified the problem by one of the rollers spinning freely on the z axis. I fixed it by loosening the bottom and top screws on both poles, raising the z axis all the way to the top, tightening tue top screws, then lowering z axis to bottom and tightening bottom screws. I verified by checking all z axis rollers have friction with the poles, and a straight edge.
When using glue sticks, I wash the bed with detergent to get a water break surface. I rinse off the detergent with fresh water. While the bed is still wet, I apply glue stick and use my grease free finger to mix the glue stick with the water to form a medium thick paste. When dry, this leaves a very smooth flat surface.
Printing with PLA I keep my bed temp at 60 and nozzle at 205 for first layer. I also lower the speed for the first layer to 30mm/s (I can print up to 150mm/s). After the first layer I increase my speed to 60 mm/s and keep nozzle temp at 205 and keep the bed temp at 60 for the remainder of the print. I do not use any adhesion just a clean bed.
Glas bed coated in ABS juice (dissolve filament in acetone) at 100 degrees celcius. Use a wide brim. Enclose your printer completely, I made a 500x500x500 box out of mdf, piano hinge mdf door with a cutout with some plexiglas so I can see inside. Also run a 60mm fan with a hose outside at 5v as an extraction fan to create a slight low pressure area inside so fumes can't escape. Preheat the bed about 30 minutes to heat up the chamber and start the print. Don't open the door until the print is done and cooled completely. This does mean you need to be able to start your print without opening the door. Glue sticks, 3d spray, hairspray etc can't compete with ABS juice, just make sure you work with it in a ventilated area as the fumes are pretty strong. Use a glass jar with a metal lid, pour about a 5mm layer of acetone into it and drop filament, failed prints, brims and supports into it. Keep agitating it and add more filament until it's a milky consistancy. You don't need much abs in the solution, throw a bit in and let it dissolve before adding more. Use a brush to apply a thin layer to the cold bed, after a print I just brush some fresh juice where its needed until I either change color or it gets to lumpy. Use a brush that can handle solvents and store it in the jar with ABS juice or straight acetone otherwise it's going to become rock solid😂 Also make sure the lid and jar are clean before screwing it on otherwise it will get stuck. Best thing is that you can use the acetone to vapour smooth your prints aswell. Been printing with ABS for more then a decade and it's my favorite filament. PETG and PLA hate me.😂 In cura scale the print 101% to 104% due to shrinkage, you need to calibrate it.
Using a smooth PEI build plate helps. It can stick almost too good. The downside is that they are more sensitive to fatty fingerprints compared to textured plates.
How much of an effect does a heated bed have on warping with 3D prints? My printer doesn't have one, so not sure if there other measures I should take or if everything else that he's mentioned is enough to solve warping.
Had the same issue, same printer. Wash with soap and water. Bed temp is always 70 and i use brims on everything. Never had a problem since. After the print, if you allow the bed to cool completely (i turn on a fan) the print releases completely on its own, and you dont need to clean the bed to print again.
What might be interesting is if other brands of glue sticks were tested. I'm new at this and am looking for a more options and maybe some optional techniques. Thanks for your find, Amazon would probably agree with you.
When I bought my X1 Carbon I bought an additional pack from my vendor that included a tube of 3D LAC, it works just great but the pad wears down before even 10% of the liquid is used, they do have a spray version that I will buy when this one runs out though, once the pad is no longer functional I will cut the top off and transfer the liquid to an atomisor.
I was having the same issue with IPA someone recommended Acetone and now i use that. So far it has been working great. I like not having to use the glue stick. I put the acetone in a spray bottle give it a few squirts and wipe it down. I would avoid any heat source's.
Hey boss so im having an issue maybe you can help with. I basically am having issues with the bed temp ive been keeping it at 50 and the nozzle temp at 220 with the z at -1.87. The issue is that some prints have been printing just fine but others wont get the first layer down right or if they do it starts getting like straight spaghetti. I think I’ve narrowed it down to bed temps but I have no idea. It printed very well once and then the next time i couldnt get the first layer down i started using elmers glue and that seems to help but then the first layer will be separated by gaps
Is it PLA? Try 60 and 200. It also sounds like your first layer is too high. There is no right number to tell you for the z-level, you need to see where it's at. The filament needs to slightly smash down on the bed. Watch my video on bed leveling, and that should help you too.
@@VaderDadBuilds sounds good boss i tried the auto leveling and i tried doing the paper method but it didnt work and yes it was pla sir. Ive also tried putting the Z nozzle while it’s printing higher and lower, but the only difference I can notice was that when I changed it its height up or down it would still get dragged in the corners
i use aquanet hair spray for a glue. it is cheaper and works after cleaning with hot water and soap, then ipa. also with something like that adding a bigger brim or tabs works to help the sides not warp.
I've never needed glue stick on textured pei. My printer is enclosed though. That shouldn't matter as I take enclosure off for PLA, and prints still stick. Parts only come off after the plate cooled down. I use window cleaner to clean the surface. Works beautifully and is dirt cheap.
Rafts are a platform of a few layers below the print. They take extra time and filament, but can help with adhesion problems. They are added in the slicer.
A glue stick is not a solution, its a band aid to a different problem. PLA doesn't need glue to stick to the bed so if you require it, the underlining issue is not resolved.
Looking at the print bed from the top-down, what does a good smush look like? The extrusion of material is so tiny, it is difficult to see without magnification?
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2 minutes and straight to the point? That’s a sub from me
Thank you for watching and subscribing! Glad you liked it.
It’s recommended to wash your bed with dish soap every now and then. I normally clean with isopropyl alcohol but occasionally start having adhesion issues. Wash with dish soap and water and off to the races again.
Couldn’t agree more. I also want to add, keep an eye on your seams this could also be causing your warping issues.
How am I post to clean my print bed with soap I have glue on it when I put soap/water on it the glue reactivates
Thank you for the short, no-nonsense informative video
And thank you for watching!
Really thought the "rub glue all over the thing" idea was an inside joke used to haze those new to the hobby. This is exactly the reason I waited so long to get into the hobby.
Thank you! just straight!
And thank you for watching!
I'm new to this, and had same issues too. The reason i found out is my gantry was not perfectly square (i had to disassemble it for transport)
I identified the problem by one of the rollers spinning freely on the z axis. I fixed it by loosening the bottom and top screws on both poles, raising the z axis all the way to the top, tightening tue top screws, then lowering z axis to bottom and tightening bottom screws. I verified by checking all z axis rollers have friction with the poles, and a straight edge.
When using glue sticks, I wash the bed with detergent to get a water break surface. I rinse off the detergent with fresh water. While the bed is still wet, I apply glue stick and use my grease free finger to mix the glue stick with the water to form a medium thick paste. When dry, this leaves a very smooth flat surface.
Printing with PLA I keep my bed temp at 60 and nozzle at 205 for first layer. I also lower the speed for the first layer to 30mm/s (I can print up to 150mm/s). After the first layer I increase my speed to 60 mm/s and keep nozzle temp at 205 and keep the bed temp at 60 for the remainder of the print. I do not use any adhesion just a clean bed.
This is some reallllyyyy useful information 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Right to the point, no time wasted, thank you!
And thank you for watching!
Z-seam on corners also creates warping issues
Amazing video! It doesn't matter if your channel is small, you can still make great things!
Thank you! I appreciate that. I just always try to make my next video better than my last.
Thanks for the Useful Tip this might help with My ABS prints lifting slightly at the corners
I'd be interested to know if it helps with your ABS prints. I have not printed ABS myself.
Glas bed coated in ABS juice (dissolve filament in acetone) at 100 degrees celcius.
Use a wide brim.
Enclose your printer completely, I made a 500x500x500 box out of mdf, piano hinge mdf door with a cutout with some plexiglas so I can see inside.
Also run a 60mm fan with a hose outside at 5v as an extraction fan to create a slight low pressure area inside so fumes can't escape.
Preheat the bed about 30 minutes to heat up the chamber and start the print.
Don't open the door until the print is done and cooled completely.
This does mean you need to be able to start your print without opening the door.
Glue sticks, 3d spray, hairspray etc can't compete with ABS juice, just make sure you work with it in a ventilated area as the fumes are pretty strong.
Use a glass jar with a metal lid, pour about a 5mm layer of acetone into it and drop filament, failed prints, brims and supports into it.
Keep agitating it and add more filament until it's a milky consistancy.
You don't need much abs in the solution, throw a bit in and let it dissolve before adding more.
Use a brush to apply a thin layer to the cold bed, after a print I just brush some fresh juice where its needed until I either change color or it gets to lumpy.
Use a brush that can handle solvents and store it in the jar with ABS juice or straight acetone otherwise it's going to become rock solid😂
Also make sure the lid and jar are clean before screwing it on otherwise it will get stuck.
Best thing is that you can use the acetone to vapour smooth your prints aswell.
Been printing with ABS for more then a decade and it's my favorite filament.
PETG and PLA hate me.😂
In cura scale the print 101% to 104% due to shrinkage, you need to calibrate it.
Thank you so much! Fixed the issue for me complitely, but it works too well...
1. Z offset, smush dat 1st layer.
2. Drafts. Stop em'
3. Clean surface
4. Print slowly first
5. Dont go from 0-100 fan speed. Ramp up slow
Thank you kindly for the concise info!!
Thank you for watching!
Using a smooth PEI build plate helps. It can stick almost too good. The downside is that they are more sensitive to fatty fingerprints compared to textured plates.
I've found that soap and water work better than ethanol. And avoid fingerprints. Not all fingers are a problem but mine are
Yes, fingerprints are a big problem.
How much of an effect does a heated bed have on warping with 3D prints? My printer doesn't have one, so not sure if there other measures I should take or if everything else that he's mentioned is enough to solve warping.
Had the same issue, same printer. Wash with soap and water. Bed temp is always 70 and i use brims on everything. Never had a problem since. After the print, if you allow the bed to cool completely (i turn on a fan) the print releases completely on its own, and you dont need to clean the bed to print again.
Great advise!
What might be interesting is if other brands of glue sticks were tested. I'm new at this and am looking for a more options and maybe some optional techniques. Thanks for your find, Amazon would probably agree with you.
When I bought my X1 Carbon I bought an additional pack from my vendor that included a tube of 3D LAC, it works just great but the pad wears down before even 10% of the liquid is used, they do have a spray version that I will buy when this one runs out though, once the pad is no longer functional I will cut the top off and transfer the liquid to an atomisor.
Good to know. I haven't used 10% yet, but I was actually wondering if that pad would last.
Purple Elmer’s glue $1.79. Works great for ASA & ABS
3d printing glue stick $17.
It’s a no brainer.
aquanet or a little watered down wood glue works also.
To-The-Point!
I was having the same issue with IPA someone recommended Acetone and now i use that. So far it has been working great. I like not having to use the glue stick. I put the acetone in a spray bottle give it a few squirts and wipe it down. I would avoid any heat source's.
Hey boss so im having an issue maybe you can help with. I basically am having issues with the bed temp ive been keeping it at 50 and the nozzle temp at 220 with the z at -1.87. The issue is that some prints have been printing just fine but others wont get the first layer down right or if they do it starts getting like straight spaghetti. I think I’ve narrowed it down to bed temps but I have no idea. It printed very well once and then the next time i couldnt get the first layer down i started using elmers glue and that seems to help but then the first layer will be separated by gaps
Is it PLA? Try 60 and 200. It also sounds like your first layer is too high. There is no right number to tell you for the z-level, you need to see where it's at. The filament needs to slightly smash down on the bed.
Watch my video on bed leveling, and that should help you too.
@@VaderDadBuilds sounds good boss i tried the auto leveling and i tried doing the paper method but it didnt work and yes it was pla sir. Ive also tried putting the Z nozzle while it’s printing higher and lower, but the only difference I can notice was that when I changed it its height up or down it would still get dragged in the corners
@@german9277 If it drags in one place and not another its a sure sign that something is not actually level.
Hey there, when using the glue do you keep bed heated?
Yes, whether or not I'm using the glue, I usually have the bed at 60.
i use aquanet hair spray for a glue. it is cheaper and works after cleaning with hot water and soap, then ipa. also with something like that adding a bigger brim or tabs works to help the sides not warp.
I've never needed glue stick on textured pei. My printer is enclosed though. That shouldn't matter as I take enclosure off for PLA, and prints still stick. Parts only come off after the plate cooled down. I use window cleaner to clean the surface. Works beautifully and is dirt cheap.
After applying glue stick I use a scraper to spread the glue into a thin layer
That's a great tip!
What are rafts?
Rafts are a platform of a few layers below the print. They take extra time and filament, but can help with adhesion problems. They are added in the slicer.
A glue stick is not a solution, its a band aid to a different problem. PLA doesn't need glue to stick to the bed so if you require it, the underlining issue is not resolved.
Looking at the print bed from the top-down, what does a good smush look like? The extrusion of material is so tiny, it is difficult to see without magnification?
I plan on posting another video about getting the perfect 1st layer. I will be sure to get a good close up.
Also, all pla, pla plus, silk gold pla, 210 first layer, 205 after. Never a failed print
The topic here is the bed adhesion. 205c doesn't contribute to anything about warping in the bottom.
Pei + aceton 👌
Ender is alway problems