Thanks for the info but what about the extrusion temperature and cooling of the pla? You mentioned turning up the build plate temperature and so what effects does the extrusion temperature and cooling fan have on the pla's ability to stick and remain stuck to the build plate
I was getting curling and adhesion issues last winter. Long story short I decided the issue was it was just too cold in my office/workshop we were heating the house with the wood stove due to oil being astronomically high these last few years so rather then risk burning down my house and familywith a space heater o going broke on oil took a break from printing until late spring and I am still having adhesion issues. I tried painters tape and hairspray with seemingly good results, no curling consitent layers and good adhesion early on but what is happening now is 6-8 hours into the print when it's like 50- 70% through it comes off the bed. Going to try the gluestick next but I'm at my wits end. I don't understand how it's adhering well early on by my prints keep opting out closer to the end.
Thank you! We had tried the blue tape on the Toybox and it was still coming up on one side. We then added the glue and that took it almost all the way. The last thing we did was slightly correct the level of the print bed and it is pretty much perfect with your other fixes. Where did you get the pre cut blue tape sheets? I have a roll but that looks so much easier!
Thank you so much for making this video! It has really helped me find some new ways to stick my prints to my build plate, as currently, I have the ender 3 V3 KE which has some known z-offset and bed leveling issues as it is very new. Once again, thank you!
I've printed for more than 100 hrs using a recently delivered Neptune 3 Pro with perfect adhesion: no glue stick, tape, brim or raft. I've been using the stock profiles in Cura 5.6.0 for slicing. The only thing I change , depending on the project, is the infill density. Printed parts (including complex print-in-place models) cleanly self-release after cooling. I primarily use eSun PLA+ but have had the same results with Printbed PLA filament. The only care I take is to not touch the surface of the metal plate and to not clean the metal plate in any way, including isopropyl alcohol.
I have a Neptune 4 and used the included glue stick. I just found it too messy and so switched over to spray glue. I find it much easier. I have no adhesion issues and it's far less messy.
I've been having great success with A4 laminating sheets cut to the size of the bed and lightly UHU glued to the bed with the 'rough' side up. It separates really well at the end too.
All good and necessary points mentioned in this video :) Explaining the settings for cura came a bit short. The following settings in cura helped me print a better first layer on my old Tronxy XY-2 Pro: - initial layer Line width: 125% - printing temperatures: 200°C -> 205°C - printing temperature initial layer: 215°C (for 2 mm glass bed) - build plate temperture 55°C° -> 60°C (increase in inrements of 5) - use brim and brim width: 3mm Because the corners still lifted up from the bed sometimes, I installed a cura marketplace plugin called TabAntiWarping (Mouse Ears).
Creality Ender 3 v3 se using PLA mainly and use PETG all have trouble sticking to bed whats ideal temps for both and i get very fine lines on prints when it works
I got a Ender 2 Pro, did no more than 10 prints in the past year for my daughter, now I can't get it to work. I've spent 5 hours tonight, replaced the nozzle, new role of PLA filament from Ender, cleaned the magnetic plate, recheck and leveled it again, baby step the z axis, print the tuzi g-code it came with to make sure it's not a model problem, de-greased the magnetic plate again, increased bed to 65 instead of 60, slowed down the print, and it Just Won't Stick... I'm so close to spare parting this thing. I will try the glue stick method tomorrow. Any other ideas please advise.
I took the removable build plate off, squirted fairy washing up liquid all over it and rubbed it in with my fingers when used warm water and soap to scrub it in and off and then dried the plate with paper towels then did a auto level. If I do this every time it works unless the print is too small @@Mc.quakquak
So I just got my printer I know it’s leveled i made sure of it many times the glue works and is sticky not to sticky but when I do the print like a tiny cube the print will not stick to the bed and start to follow the nozzle like it’s stuck to it because it is how do I keep the filament to stick to the bed and keep the nozzle from dragging the print around I’m new to 3d printing and there are no tutorials to the problem I’m having
Why did you not do that in the first place. I'm really curious why he did not take your own advice. Because if you had done that in the first place you would not have that mess. So now you're telling everybody What you did not do, or you would not have that mess.
Thanks for the info but what about the extrusion temperature and cooling of the pla? You mentioned turning up the build plate temperature and so what effects does the extrusion temperature and cooling fan have on the pla's ability to stick and remain stuck to the build plate
ive literally tried every single on of these steps except the glue stick, and by the end of the print is just starts going crazy.
The glue stick is manditory
I was getting curling and adhesion issues last winter. Long story short I decided the issue was it was just too cold in my office/workshop we were heating the house with the wood stove due to oil being astronomically high these last few years so rather then risk burning down my house and familywith a space heater o going broke on oil took a break from printing until late spring and I am still having adhesion issues. I tried painters tape and hairspray with seemingly good results, no curling consitent layers and good adhesion early on but what is happening now is 6-8 hours into the print when it's like 50- 70% through it comes off the bed. Going to try the gluestick next but I'm at my wits end. I don't understand how it's adhering well early on by my prints keep opting out closer to the end.
I'm in the same boat 6hrs into a 23hr print and it came off the bed so pissed off with it now i don't even want it 😂
Thank you! We had tried the blue tape on the Toybox and it was still coming up on one side. We then added the glue and that took it almost all the way. The last thing we did was slightly correct the level of the print bed and it is pretty much perfect with your other fixes.
Where did you get the pre cut blue tape sheets? I have a roll but that looks so much easier!
Thank you so much for making this video! It has really helped me find some new ways to stick my prints to my build plate, as currently, I have the ender 3 V3 KE which has some known z-offset and bed leveling issues as it is very new. Once again, thank you!
Glad it helped!
I've printed for more than 100 hrs using a recently delivered Neptune 3 Pro with perfect adhesion: no glue stick, tape, brim or raft. I've been using the stock profiles in Cura 5.6.0 for slicing. The only thing I change , depending on the project, is the infill density. Printed parts (including complex print-in-place models) cleanly self-release after cooling. I primarily use eSun PLA+ but have had the same results with Printbed PLA filament. The only care I take is to not touch the surface of the metal plate and to not clean the metal plate in any way, including isopropyl alcohol.
Wow nice!
"and to not clean the metal plate in any way, including isopropyl alcohol" And so what problems does isopropyl alcohol cause?
My first layer doesn’t even stick 😢
Me too. I guess I'll buy some glue stick
How do you create that timelapse video at the beginning where it looks like its just building itself
Its the beagle camera! (aff link) amzn.to/3O7JNar
I have a Neptune 4 and used the included glue stick. I just found it too messy and so switched over to spray glue.
I find it much easier. I have no adhesion issues and it's far less messy.
Nice tip! I’ll have to try it. I just ignore the mess 😂
😆
And ruined the bed plate!! 🤣🤣🤣
@kevinbaker26 what spray glue did you use?
I used a spray called 3dLac from Amazon.
And, no it does not damage the pei plate
I've been having great success with A4 laminating sheets cut to the size of the bed and lightly UHU glued to the bed with the 'rough' side up. It separates really well at the end too.
smart!
0:45 i dont have dust i have scraches how do i remove them
Get a new bed
I did but I got a refund and I bought a new one it worked
All good and necessary points mentioned in this video :) Explaining the settings for cura came a bit short.
The following settings in cura helped me print a better first layer on my old Tronxy XY-2 Pro:
- initial layer Line width: 125%
- printing temperatures: 200°C -> 205°C
- printing temperature initial layer: 215°C (for 2 mm glass bed)
- build plate temperture 55°C° -> 60°C (increase in inrements of 5)
- use brim and brim width: 3mm
Because the corners still lifted up from the bed sometimes, I installed a cura marketplace plugin called TabAntiWarping (Mouse Ears).
Great tips!
For the glue stick, do you have to wash it off every time between prints?
No
Thanks for showing how to z offset
Agreed!
Creality Ender 3 v3 se using PLA mainly and use PETG all have trouble sticking to bed whats ideal temps for both and i get very fine lines on prints when it works
Same mine is a mess
Ive tried these i am completely new to this i have a a20m it is just coming out and clumping together straight away
I got a Ender 2 Pro, did no more than 10 prints in the past year for my daughter, now I can't get it to work. I've spent 5 hours tonight, replaced the nozzle, new role of PLA filament from Ender, cleaned the magnetic plate, recheck and leveled it again, baby step the z axis, print the tuzi g-code it came with to make sure it's not a model problem, de-greased the magnetic plate again, increased bed to 65 instead of 60, slowed down the print, and it Just Won't Stick... I'm so close to spare parting this thing. I will try the glue stick method tomorrow. Any other ideas please advise.
Did you figure this out mate? Mines being a little shit lol
@@ATKDERBY2010 did u figure it out?
I took the removable build plate off, squirted fairy washing up liquid all over it and rubbed it in with my fingers when used warm water and soap to scrub it in and off and then dried the plate with paper towels then did a auto level. If I do this every time it works unless the print is too small @@Mc.quakquak
@@ATKDERBY2010 ty
@Mc.quakquak did you get sorted mate? My printer was annoying for about two weeks but I think I figured it if you still need anything
I Never use glue really good bed level and good bed temp will do the job 😊
So I just got my printer I know it’s leveled i made sure of it many times the glue works and is sticky not to sticky but when I do the print like a tiny cube the print will not stick to the bed and start to follow the nozzle like it’s stuck to it because it is how do I keep the filament to stick to the bed and keep the nozzle from dragging the print around I’m new to 3d printing and there are no tutorials to the problem I’m having
Same here tell me if you found a solution
Same. Makes me wanna give up
Best explanation on RUclips, Infact anywhere. Thanks a lot
why is the filiment in the printer black but the mess is white filiment
Do not use the glue stick. It will stick to your bed and it will ruin your bed if you put too much so you can do it just don’t put too much.
Even any kind of glue, even pritstick can ruin the bedplate, so why even suggest it.
The glue literally came with my 3D printer
Why did you not do that in the first place.
I'm really curious why he did not take your own advice.
Because if you had done that in the first place you would not have that mess.
So now you're telling everybody
What you did not do, or you would not have that mess.
Its the filament. Nothing to do with the bed unless your bed is off by 1.1 all away around.