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Thank you.. I LOVE FREE STUFF !!!

Hey I printed this and finished this model as well. I actually carved in the shapes on the back that were missing.

How many days of printing did it take?

Surprised you didn't mention increasing how many brims are printed.

As printing upside down would help with flatter prints, it’s not so cost effective for more 3rd dimensional prints

What brand of gray spray paint did you use and what was the clear coat that you used?

I wonder if this would work with mica powders for nails to get other colors?

I'm new to this, and had same issues too. The reason i found out is my gantry was not perfectly square (i had to disassemble it for transport) I identified the problem by one of the rollers spinning freely on the z axis. I fixed it by loosening the bottom and top screws on both poles, raising the z axis all the way to the top, tightening tue top screws, then lowering z axis to bottom and tightening bottom screws. I verified by checking all z axis rollers have friction with the poles, and a straight edge.

Just stumbled across your channel. Good stuff, brother. I followed you on Printables. Look me up!

Thank you! just straight!

what printer you use ? looking so smooth!

How much of an effect does a heated bed have on warping with 3D prints? My printer doesn't have one, so not sure if there other measures I should take or if everything else that he's mentioned is enough to solve warping.

Z-seam on corners also creates warping issues

effing legend

The one white Oreo in the package : I am no jedi

in the preview tab I believe there is an option to show the colors as layer thickness

For a much better Result you wanna apply this over a 2k clear gloss black surface. and after mutiple passes of graphite - wash it off - graphite over and over. you wanna use another 2k clear over the graphite. it wont dull it and you have a mirror like chrome finish.

There isnt anything there to click

Thanks for the tip about the Helmet Pads.

😮❤

Great Work! We'd love to offer you some parts, like 3DP or CNC machining if you might need them in the upcoming content. (PCBWayDaisy)

Right to the point, no time wasted, thank you!

finnally every time i search for some tutorial on this i can never find anything, thank you sir, i can die in peace now.

Awesome video! I will definitely try it! Which mandalorian helmet model are you using?

That looks very metallic indeed. I wonder if the graphite coating makes the surface fully conductive to allow for electro-chemical deposition of real metal on the surface.

A glue stick is not a solution, its a band aid to a different problem. PLA doesn't need glue to stick to the bed so if you require it, the underlining issue is not resolved.

18 hours? 😭 Just cut it out of sheet metal

Hey there, when using the glue do you keep bed heated?

upside down, set first layer width to 0.35 and infill overlap to 30%. Thank me later

11 hours for that? Are you kidding me. A modern 3-D printer can do that in about 30 minutes.

I like you don't use music in your videos, thank you for that and for share the settings.

Concentric top layer may look great since it is a clock.

On the top layer use a concentric surface pattern for this round object. Otherwise try using a Hilbert curve if using Orca slicer. These tend to give a better top look, imho.

Looks great! Printing my own now! What did you do to connect the front and rear of the helmet?

Whenever he says "layer lines" he means "print lines". "layer lines" are the lines between each layer, which run vertically throughout the print, not across the top layer of the print (which is a single layer)

Really thought the "rub glue all over the thing" idea was an inside joke used to haze those new to the hobby. This is exactly the reason I waited so long to get into the hobby.

Who uses cura in 2024?

I don't like adaptive layers. It's slow and does odd things.

I think you could have saved yourself a lot of time with a smaller project. 👍

Textured bed sheet, upside down, lower z offset so the squish will blend, and same bottom layer advice you used and it’ll look 10x better no ironing needed

Good video, i like your style, no nonsense, you get straight to it and show us your full process with clear and concise explanation. Good work. First video I've watched on your channel, I'll be back for more 😊

When using glue sticks, I wash the bed with detergent to get a water break surface. I rinse off the detergent with fresh water. While the bed is still wet, I apply glue stick and use my grease free finger to mix the glue stick with the water to form a medium thick paste. When dry, this leaves a very smooth flat surface.

Almost all of this issues already fixed in various latest patches of orca slicer.

Thanks for sharing your experience with this model. I've been wanting to print a AT-ST for a while so I'll definitely check out that model on Printables. For the rail on top of the head, I think I'll design printable mounts and bend a piece of copper wire for the rail itself. The more delicate parts will get resin printed to make life easier for me and my FDM printer. I'm going to try using TPE for the joints instead of TPU because it is softer and might provide more friction to make posing a little easier. I may even scale up the model.

Great tips..

2 minutes and straight to the point? That’s a sub from me

I will have to try this out when I get my 3d printer. Thank you for mentioning the time it took to print. I want to compare it to mine

You need to print it upside down on a textured plate and use a .2mm first layer

for smt like this print flipping the model and using a powdered bed is perfect, u dont see any print lines. For other models ironing is good but needs to be calibrated perfectly

It's so utterly stupid that monotonic isn't default. Cura used to always do monotonic, but added "optimized" order a few years go, and only added the option to go back after enough people complained... 🤦