Awesome. Thanks for checking it out. I've made a few different 2x4 lap steels. Check out this playlist to see a few vids... ruclips.net/p/PLwIixlr7C6KV9-UifWVYBcrcmKF4eahYC
I like the hardtail bridge in this design (the ability to intonate the strings and level the bridge for a bar). Do they make any hardtail bridges with a wide string spacing (2-1/4" minimum for a 3/8" string spacing)? I'm getting ready to build my first lap steel and understand that they have a wider string spacing than a regular guitar. My problem comes in finding components that facilitate that desired wider spacing (hardtail bridge and pickup). What did you do/use?
I had the hardtail bridge in my parts box so I'm not 100% sure what the spacing is. I'm pretty sure it came off a standard guitar so probably strat-style spacing (the pickup is a strat-style pickup and it seems to line up). Honestly, the spacing really shouldn't matter as long as your bridge and nut spacings match. It may be slightly wider or narrower than the defacto standard for lap steels... but there's no inherent wrong or right in this arena... it's all just popular conventions. I mean, Gibson and Fender both use different string spacings and, while some people prefer one or the other, nobody would say either guitar is "wrong" just different.
@@musicalmiscellany Understand, the only thing I could find were single saddle individual bridges. They would work, but I think I'd rather have a single bridge plate with the saddles on top (like you have). Thanks for indulging my paranoia...
@@wellingtonfirstbaptist4651 No worries. Using individual saddles does allow you a lot of flexibility for string spacing. However, you really need to be precise with your measuring because even a mm or two off makes a big difference. If you go that route, take your time mounting them and double-check everything. One of the nice things about the plate bridges is even if you're a mm or two off, you can typically compensate with the adjustable saddles and make it work. That said... I suppose it's always best to be super precise no matter what type of bridge you're mounting. LOL.
How does the wiring work? Like if I bought pots and caps, how would I attach the knobs to them? Also, how did you make the cavity? This is an excellent video! I’m very inspired to do this myself! Thank you!
Thanks for checking it out. I used a forstner bit to route out the cavity. The wiring is just standard guitar wiring. There's a diagram you can follow here: guitarelectronics.com/1-humbucker-1-volume-1-tone/
It is done with 3 types of Rustoleum paint. I used a standard Rustoleum red and applied 2 coats. Then after it dried, I added one coat of the Rustoleum Glitter paint - you can buy it at most craft stores. After the glitter paint dried, I applied a coat of Rustoleum satin clear. It ended up looking pretty nice.
Nice job, so simple. I have a question...why did you use 500k pots with a single coil pick.up? Usually a 250k pot is the go to for a single coil pickup. 500k will work no doubt but your sound will be darker as opposed to a 250k which will be somewhat brighter ( 500k are usually used for humbuckers). Just curious what your thoughts are.
You are absolutely correct. 500K are generally considered the "preferred" pots for humbuckers. So why did I use them in this build... simple... I didn't have any 250K pots in my parts box. When I make homemade instruments, I like to use the things I have on hand even if they're not the "traditional" part. To me, that's what makes homemade instruments interesting. I mean... the guitar is made from a flippin' 2X4... why get sentimental about the pots? LOL. In all seriousness though... there's nothing inherently "correct" about using a 250K pot for a single coil pickup... it's just a popular convention.
I just checked cbgitty.com. The tuners are $10, the pickup is $7.50, the fretboard is $12, and the bridge is $9. I had the rest of the parts on hand (including the 2x4) so it's difficult to say for sure but I'd think you could recreate this for around $50.
Thanks for watching. I've made 3 of these so far (other 2 links below) and each time I used a different length 2X4 to start. I think this one was around 36". I guess it doesn't really matter as long as you can get a 23" space for the scale and have room for the bridge/tuners you want. I'd say anything 32" or longer should work. Here are the other 2 videos: ruclips.net/video/PmYQuLmFsuA/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/tT170fxgvUE/видео.html
@@musicalmiscellany He's talking about putting the felt feet on the bottom of the Lap Steel instead of the wood pieces that you used. But like you stated in a comment above about the use of 500k vs 250k pots. You like using what you have on hand.
It's a 2-inch by 4-inch board used in house construction and all kinds of other carpentry projects. If you go to any lumber yard and tell them you need an 8-foot 2x4, they'll know what you're asking for.
@@musicalmiscellanyThank you, it's clear now. That is, for the metric system it will be a board approximately 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. Thanks for the clarification 👍
@@CinemaRus We name things very strangely in the US because despite them being called 2X4's, most of the boards are actually 1-1/2" by 3-1/2". So that's closer to 40mm x 90mm. Yeah, nobody understands it here either. 😝
That was a fantastic 'mini' guitar 'lesson' you threw in near the end as a 'bonus'; GREAT VIDEO. Please make some more !!!!
I'm glad you liked it. These 2X4 lap steels sound really good. I really like 'em. Thanks for checking it out.
Ohhh Yah! Thanks again! I love the sound! Time for me to get with it and make one.
These 2x4's really do sound great. Thanks for checking it out.
Thanks for the clear instructions. I’m at the design stage on mine….along with a couple cigar box projects….love the t-shirt!
Awesome. Thanks for checking it out. I've made a few different 2x4 lap steels. Check out this playlist to see a few vids... ruclips.net/p/PLwIixlr7C6KV9-UifWVYBcrcmKF4eahYC
I will never get tired of the sound :-)
It is really a classic sound huh? Thanks for tuning in.
I really like that red sparkle finish, cool build¡
Thanks. It may be made from an ordinary 2X4 but this lap steel sounds great.
awesome dude! looks awesome.
That is too cool! I have got to try making one of those!
I like the hardtail bridge in this design (the ability to intonate the strings and level the bridge for a bar). Do they make any hardtail bridges with a wide string spacing (2-1/4" minimum for a 3/8" string spacing)? I'm getting ready to build my first lap steel and understand that they have a wider string spacing than a regular guitar. My problem comes in finding components that facilitate that desired wider spacing (hardtail bridge and pickup). What did you do/use?
I had the hardtail bridge in my parts box so I'm not 100% sure what the spacing is. I'm pretty sure it came off a standard guitar so probably strat-style spacing (the pickup is a strat-style pickup and it seems to line up). Honestly, the spacing really shouldn't matter as long as your bridge and nut spacings match. It may be slightly wider or narrower than the defacto standard for lap steels... but there's no inherent wrong or right in this arena... it's all just popular conventions. I mean, Gibson and Fender both use different string spacings and, while some people prefer one or the other, nobody would say either guitar is "wrong" just different.
@@musicalmiscellany Understand, the only thing I could find were single saddle individual bridges. They would work, but I think I'd rather have a single bridge plate with the saddles on top (like you have). Thanks for indulging my paranoia...
@@wellingtonfirstbaptist4651 No worries. Using individual saddles does allow you a lot of flexibility for string spacing. However, you really need to be precise with your measuring because even a mm or two off makes a big difference. If you go that route, take your time mounting them and double-check everything. One of the nice things about the plate bridges is even if you're a mm or two off, you can typically compensate with the adjustable saddles and make it work. That said... I suppose it's always best to be super precise no matter what type of bridge you're mounting. LOL.
You can buy hardtail c.b.g. bridges with 19mm spacings, but only in 3 or 4 string.
How does the wiring work? Like if I bought pots and caps, how would I attach the knobs to them? Also, how did you make the cavity?
This is an excellent video! I’m very inspired to do this myself! Thank you!
Thanks for checking it out. I used a forstner bit to route out the cavity. The wiring is just standard guitar wiring. There's a diagram you can follow here: guitarelectronics.com/1-humbucker-1-volume-1-tone/
@@musicalmiscellany thank you!!:)
nice job love the paint what brand off paint is that please
It is done with 3 types of Rustoleum paint. I used a standard Rustoleum red and applied 2 coats. Then after it dried, I added one coat of the Rustoleum Glitter paint - you can buy it at most craft stores. After the glitter paint dried, I applied a coat of Rustoleum satin clear. It ended up looking pretty nice.
@@musicalmiscellany thank you bunches
What's the scale? Sounds great!
23" scale. Thanks for checking it out.
Nice job, so simple. I have a question...why did you use 500k pots with a single coil pick.up? Usually a 250k pot is the go to for a single coil pickup. 500k will work no doubt but your sound will be darker as opposed to a 250k which will be somewhat brighter ( 500k are usually used for humbuckers). Just curious what your thoughts are.
You are absolutely correct. 500K are generally considered the "preferred" pots for humbuckers. So why did I use them in this build... simple... I didn't have any 250K pots in my parts box. When I make homemade instruments, I like to use the things I have on hand even if they're not the "traditional" part. To me, that's what makes homemade instruments interesting. I mean... the guitar is made from a flippin' 2X4... why get sentimental about the pots? LOL. In all seriousness though... there's nothing inherently "correct" about using a 250K pot for a single coil pickup... it's just a popular convention.
How much it cost you thank you .
I just checked cbgitty.com. The tuners are $10, the pickup is $7.50, the fretboard is $12, and the bridge is $9. I had the rest of the parts on hand (including the 2x4) so it's difficult to say for sure but I'd think you could recreate this for around $50.
How long a piece of wood do I need to start with?
Thanks for watching. I've made 3 of these so far (other 2 links below) and each time I used a different length 2X4 to start. I think this one was around 36". I guess it doesn't really matter as long as you can get a 23" space for the scale and have room for the bridge/tuners you want. I'd say anything 32" or longer should work.
Here are the other 2 videos: ruclips.net/video/PmYQuLmFsuA/видео.html & ruclips.net/video/tT170fxgvUE/видео.html
I just got out the tape measure and checked... this lap steel is 35" long.
@@musicalmiscellany ok thanks
Sounds like a 2X4.
It sounds like a 2x4 with 6 string and a chinese-made strat pickup... oh wait... that's what it is.
Stick on felt feet from dollar tree
I'm not really sure what the comment means but thanks for checking out the video.
@@musicalmiscellany He's talking about putting the felt feet on the bottom of the Lap Steel instead of the wood pieces that you used. But like you stated in a comment above about the use of 500k vs 250k pots. You like using what you have on hand.
What does 2x4 mean?
It's a 2-inch by 4-inch board used in house construction and all kinds of other carpentry projects. If you go to any lumber yard and tell them you need an 8-foot 2x4, they'll know what you're asking for.
@@musicalmiscellanyThank you, it's clear now. That is, for the metric system it will be a board approximately 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide. Thanks for the clarification 👍
@@CinemaRus We name things very strangely in the US because despite them being called 2X4's, most of the boards are actually 1-1/2" by 3-1/2". So that's closer to 40mm x 90mm. Yeah, nobody understands it here either. 😝