Another thought... my first impression was that this guy explains too much, that handy, experienced workshop guys, such as myself, don't need all the banter. Then I gradually realized that this guy has A LOT of important tips and that it's worth listing to every word he says. I learned a lot here (had to humble myself). This dude knows his stuff. Reminds me of my ol' buddy CJ (who sadly passed a few years ago). CJ knew everything and was always right. Thanks for all the great info.
This is just what I've been looking for. This was the guidance I needed to give me the confidence to keep taking more things apart! Thank you for putting this video together.
I agree John. My neighbor gave me a couple of old stoves and I too was a little hesitant to clean and rebuild them until I found this series of videos.
Cleaned spring by placing in power drill and used steel wool...running spring forward & reverse while allowing steel wool to get down between curls of spring. turned out much cleaner than when using just Scotch brite. Couldn't get rod off the brass stopcock...so cleaned in place. Used 25 ACP wire brush to clean carbon inside of tube (22 cal too small), followed by dry bore swab with clean patch. (Took several patches / passes until patch came out semi clean.) All that to say after cleaning and re-assembling...stove lit up like a champ. Gone were huge fire ball seen when last used.. Great instructional video...wouldn't have attempted without first watching. PS used Dremel with wire wheel brush to clean off decades of corrosion and carbon build-up on burners, exterior gas line, & non-brass fittings.,. This should keep stove operational for another 20+ years with preventative maintenance mentioned in video. Again, Thank you.
Many thanks Bob! Sincerely appreciate the detail and the discussion of options / variations by model. I am restoring a couple of Model 4M stoves that I think date to 1950s. I have much more confidence now, thanks to you.
Excellent teaching. Great vids. Thank you, Mr sagebrush! And anti seize! I am using your series to take apart a useable, though rusty 413e. I found it on a free box. Actually, I just baked muffins on it, using a Coleman oven I just bought. Happy cooking!
I think carb cleaner dissolves better than brake cleaner. Not sure just how different they are, but carb cleaner is pretty amazing and it's designed to deal with gasoline deposits. Thanks for the .22 brush tip. Hadn't thought of that!
I had the air tube clogged with old fuel. Filled pump tube with brake cleaner (since I had it laying around) for a week and still clogged even after using a 120psi air compressor to try and blow it out. Bought some carb cleaner and put a little in pump tube and next day it was clear even without blowing any air through.
@@toddac61 Carb cleaner is a great help, but if you really want to get it clean take the generator apart (you called it the air tube). Clean the small rod with steel wool, the spring with a brass brush and the tube with a 22 caliber gun cleaning brush and rod. ten minutes later it's like new again. Good for another ten years
@@stevengerig6247 I meant the tube that is behind the check valve in the pump. I took the check valve out and still no air flow from the pump to the tank.
Thanks so much for these videos. I already cleaned the generator on our old 431 model but after having seen this video, I feel more confident do more cleaning and maintenance in the future. I am saving this link for future reference!
I absolutely loved this video, as I use my gasoline camp stove daily for over 20 years now. I know how to clean the generator needle, but have not be able to get the spring out for a thorough cleaning. When the generator is new no problem, but once the carbon builds up it gets good and stuck in the tube. Any advice to get the spring out would be appreciated!! You also taught me the importance of maintaining the tank pick up tube, which I did not know before. Thank for for an excellent tutorial. Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
If the generator is that gunked up, you will need to remove the tube/spring/jet assembly from the stove. Place it in a vice, and remove the brass fitting from the end of the tube. Be careful, because the actual jet is a small brass piece that is held in the end of the tube by the fitting. It's easy for it to fall out on the floor and hide. Once the fitting is off, you can just push the spring out with a screwdriver or a piece of 3/16" wooden dowel. Clean all the pieces with alcohol or brake cleaner. Reassemble everything in reverse order and you should be good to go another 50,000 miles. :-)
@@sagebrushbob2321 Thank you Bob, I will take your advice and give it a go. If is still stuck perhaps I could fill the tube with some sort of solvent, letting it sit overnight to loosen the carbon hold on it. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, penetrating oil, or something you recommend?
@@sagebrushbob2321 Thank you Sir, will give it an overnight soak with brake cleaner, and let you know of the results. PS: last time I was at a coleman collectors meet was 1990 in Indiana and I camped out in the backyard of the fellow who had a magnificent coleman museum . Off hand can't quite remember his name, but his trade was the heating business. Perhaps you were there?
I'd just wrap the tank with three t-shirts and duct tape it . Pour BB's into fuel tank close the cap Throw it in a dryer without any heat and spin it for 10 min. 💥 Boom 💥 clean tank. Take out BB's . I do that with motorcycle tank as well .
hello my friend, thanks for your tips. Now I also have a question, I have a Coleman 523 cooker, unfortunately there is black rust or gummed-up impurities in the tank. what is the best way to clean the tank? thanks in advance.
I find it interesting that knowing how valuable the little “poker” thing is at the end of the generator why everybody doesn’t insert it with the other end into the spring so you don’t get it caught. Especially when it’s been unscrewed from the valve dial?
It would be possible, but the very tiny screws that attach it to the valve stem almost need a microscope to see. You can just imagine how easy it would be to drop one, and then everything comes to a halt.
@@sagebrushbob2321 Yea I know. I have rebuilt probably about 10 stoves so far and I am currently working on a 443 that I found at a dump that was in surprisingly good condition for the fact it was about to become melted aluminum. Luckily I even was able to get it for free too. Now I just have to take a rubber mallet and various pieces of wood to shape the aluminum back into place and drop it in a vat of water and dawn (the soap not my girlfriend) to get rid of all the grease and grime and then it’s rebuild time!!!
Sir, u know what i did with my spring. I put the spring in my drill. And i use krud cutter on the green scotch brite. I hug the spring with the green scotch brite as yours and i run the drill. I slide the scrub pad up an down in a slow motion, with medium pressure. With hitting the drill trigger all the way. The spring comes out super clean. When i rinse it with water.. looks like brand new.
Hi Bob - I’m in Aus and I’m having trouble from my late model three burner Coleman stove- basically it floods and is quite dangerous as the fuel drips out of the burner and the burner tube when trying to light it and I end up with a growing fire in the stove box - the flame from the burner remains yellow and gets worse if I turn the lever from start to run - it’s quite dangerous- it was working fine up until a week ago - I watched your video and completely stripped the stove and cleaned everything though it wasn’t that dirty inside but after reassembly the problem remains- any ideas ? Can’t get Coleman fuel out here so I’ve been running it on White Spirits which I think is the same- any ideas?
Thanks for the video. Does anyone have advice on getting old fuel residue out of the tank? I don't know how long my tank has been sitting, but there is some gunk in there.
I personally use white vinegar for cleaning fuel tanks. You would also be amazed how well boiling those brass parts in some lemon just then turn the stove off and let the parts sit a few hours in the lemon juice
Thank you for your instructions on cleaning the stove. I followed your instructions but when I light it up, the burners work very well however, there is a continual flame at the junction of the master burner body and the tube. I made sure I tighten up the screw well at the end (needle). Any suggestions?
can that little pin that is inside the generator and attached to the black dial be removed from the dial i have a replacement ready to go for it but the pin seems to be attached permanently
Clean the needle as best you can, then look very closely at the point where it meets the larger tapered brass fitting. there should be two very small screws in the brass fitting that hold the needle in place. You will probably need a set of jewelers screwdrivers to fit them.
SAGEBRUSH BOB: THANK YOU FOR YO COLEMAN VIDEOS. A QUICK TIP FROM A. MECHANIC WITH CLOSE TO 50 YEARS EXPERIENCE. RATHER THAN USING BRAKE PARTS CLEANER, I SUGGEST YOU USE CARBURETOR CLEANER. YOU WILL BE SURPRISED WITH SAID RESULTS. Please CONTINUE WITH YOUR YOU TUBE HOW TO VIDEOS. THANK YOU SIR!!!
Great video series Bob! I have a question though as I am restoring a coleman 424 dual burner that i inherited from my dad's camping gear. I was trying to pressurize the fuel tank and was getting no pressure to build up. I removed the pum and found the gasket was hardened and inflexible. Got the replacement and installed it but now i can depress the plunger to get pressure to build up. I know you mention that only in rare cases does the check valve need replacing. The fact that I can depress the plunger indicate that my check valve may be gunked up from the fuel side and need replacing?
Mine is gold...will a red tank which I believe is newer replace a gold tank on a 60's coleman stove? If you know? My tank is cross threaded so I need a new one but can't find just the tank and nobody selling one knows if it is good. They all say untested!
I am in need of help. I have model 404 (424, 428). I am unable to pump the pump. It was easy to do last summer but now almost impossible. I have replaced the pump but still is very hard to pump. What am I missing? also, when I took the pump apart there was no spring original piece. But, the replacement that I purchased has the spring and directions say to always use the spring. S, now i am confused.
Again, late to the party, but it looks like there's a hex head on the pin end of the generator tube. Would it make sense to remove that fitting, clean it separately, and use something like a .22 brush to clean the inside of the generator end to end?
Yes there is. It holds the fuel jet inside it that the needle fits in. You can remove it for cleaning, but be very careful not to lose that little jet. Its a pain to try and find a new one.
So what do you do when the run valve is leaking? My stove when pressurized leaks fuel out of the valve stem you point up/down for starting. No one seems to cover that in their videos.
First, try tightening the little nut that holds the lever in place just a little bit. If the lever gets tight and doesn't want to turn any more, back the nut off until is moves again. If it still leaks, remove the packing nut. There will be a small graphite packing washer behind it. You will need to replace it. Parts are available from Old Coleman Parts.com
Why aren’t you recommending using a tank sealer after rust removal inside the tank? After the BB treatment, doesn’t that remove all of the original tank coating?
I have a duel fuel coleman two burner stove, when i pump the tank and tbe valve is shut, it still lets a tiny bit of fuel in the stove. But when i shut it off it stays simmering and doesn't turn off. Waited more tbe 30 minutes and flame does not shut off. I had to release the pressure by slowly turning the cap. What exactly is the issue here?
Probably wear and tear on the sealing surfaces inside the valve. You can try pulling out the valve stem ang generator needle assembly and cleaning everything inside and out. If it still leaks by, you will need to replace the valve assembly. Parts are available from the vendors shown in the description. Good luck!
Thank you for the video. I have done the rebuild and I still have a problem. The problem is that the valve cannot be shut off even with the dial off all the way. I think it has something to do with the pin position at the tip. As a result, the stove flame cannot be shut off and stays on at very low flame, as long as there is a pressure in the tank. I can force the flame to be out and the end of nozzle keeps on spraying the fuel until the tank pressure is all relieved. It may have something to do with how tight the each end of nozzles has to be. Should you see the needle end when you shut off the dial all the way? Help!
@@escapetherace1943 I messed around and ended up ruining the valve. But the problem has something to do with the positioning of pin at the end. You may have tightened the rod part too tight that the pin is a millimeter short to close at the tip. In the process of rebuilding, I may have tightened the rod too tight, is my guess (There are two screw ends at the rod). But then I am not an expert at this and I have ruined mine in an attempting to fix the problem so take my advice as a grain of salt. Maybe Sagebrushbob can give us some insight on the topic...
@@michaelkim8666 hmm well mine works so no biggie, I have a backup generator but I want all the life out of the current one before I replace it. I'll probably take it apart and check that out soon
Hello Sir. My 424 unleaded fuel gave up today after only just a year in use. No gas is coming out of the nozzle. It’s got pressure in the tank. When I remove the nozzle, the fuel is coming through the generator but - when the nozzle is back on there’s no gas coming through. Now the pin in the generator looks different to yours. There is no needle on the tip of my pin, that needle seems to be sitting in the nozzle... Is this how it was designed or is my needle broken off and stuck in the nozzle? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for a great video.
I got a 424 and I can say mine has a needle on the end exactly like this one here in Bobs video. in fact, apart from the colour of the tank and the location of the filler cap it is exactly the same as this so perhaps your needle is busted off and stuck in the jet (nozzle as you call it). I'm currently servicing it hence why I'm watching these videos.
They only need changed if they are leaking while the stove is in use. They should be compressed as shown in the video. If they still leak with the compression nut tightened all the way, then they should be replaced. In all my time of rebuilding these, I've only replaced one packing ring.
@@sagebrushbob2321 Hi my 424 stove has been leaking from the valve. The packing ring seems to have disintegrated. I can't find a part number or where to get one. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks
Hi - I found some in the UK in the end. However since repairing the valve it’s now started leaking from the lighting leaver. I’ve bought a whole new valve & generator assembly as time was against me
@@sagebrushbob2321 hey I came up with a great mod for the tank that on top of the tank to give it a everlasting pressure for the tank that I took a brass tire valve stem and drilled a hole on top of the tank and soldering the tractor tire valve stem to the tank for a emergency air filler for just incase the air pump fails ever since I put the valve stem on top of the tank I never had any problems or leaks with my mod for the tank but it be nice to make a video of the mod because after the valve stem is installed you can use a air compressor or bike tire pump to pump it up better than the original air pump on the tank but becareful to not over pressure the tank should be at a pressure of 65psi
Your videos has been my go to for years now.
Your description has helped me understand how this stove works better than anyone else.
Thanks Bob. This series is a master class in Coleman stove repair. Well done.
Another thought... my first impression was that this guy explains too much, that handy, experienced workshop guys, such as myself, don't need all the banter. Then I gradually realized that this guy has A LOT of important tips and that it's worth listing to every word he says. I learned a lot here (had to humble myself). This dude knows his stuff. Reminds me of my ol' buddy CJ (who sadly passed a few years ago). CJ knew everything and was always right. Thanks for all the great info.
This is just what I've been looking for. This was the guidance I needed to give me the confidence to keep taking more things apart! Thank you for putting this video together.
I agree John. My neighbor gave me a couple of old stoves and I too was a little hesitant to clean and rebuild them until I found this series of videos.
Better that way than coming here when you took it all apart and can’t get the valve portion to go back right lol.
Cleaned spring by placing in power drill and used steel wool...running spring forward & reverse while allowing steel wool to get down between curls of spring.
turned out much cleaner than when using just Scotch brite. Couldn't get rod off the brass stopcock...so cleaned in place. Used 25 ACP wire brush to clean carbon
inside of tube (22 cal too small), followed by dry bore swab with clean patch. (Took several patches / passes until patch came out semi clean.)
All that to say after cleaning and re-assembling...stove lit up like a champ. Gone were huge fire ball seen when last used.. Great instructional video...wouldn't
have attempted without first watching.
PS used Dremel with wire wheel brush to clean off decades of corrosion and carbon build-up on burners, exterior gas line, & non-brass fittings.,. This should keep stove operational for another 20+ years with preventative maintenance mentioned in video. Again, Thank you.
Mystery has been solved how this works, great teacher!
he doesnt say but he is MR COLEMAN
I agree What an excellent teacher. We all wish this was our Grampa!
Nice explanation of how the fuel/air valve works. Had not completely understood that before. Thanks for the series.
Thank you Bob for a fantastic class on video.
Excellent and very informative video for Colman stoves. Sir, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. 👍
Well explained, clear and straight to the point
Many thanks Bob! Sincerely appreciate the detail and the discussion of options / variations by model.
I am restoring a couple of Model 4M stoves that I think date to 1950s. I have much more confidence now, thanks to you.
Excellent teaching. Great vids. Thank you, Mr sagebrush! And anti seize! I am using your series to take apart a useable, though rusty 413e. I found it on a free box. Actually, I just baked muffins on it, using a Coleman oven I just bought. Happy cooking!
I think carb cleaner dissolves better than brake cleaner. Not sure just how different they are, but carb cleaner is pretty amazing and it's designed to deal with gasoline deposits. Thanks for the .22 brush tip. Hadn't thought of that!
I had the air tube clogged with old fuel. Filled pump tube with brake cleaner (since I had it laying around) for a week and still clogged even after using a 120psi air compressor to try and blow it out. Bought some carb cleaner and put a little in pump tube and next day it was clear even without blowing any air through.
@@toddac61 Carb cleaner is a great help, but if you really want to get it clean take the generator apart (you called it the air tube). Clean the small rod with steel wool, the spring with a brass brush and the tube with a 22 caliber gun cleaning brush and rod. ten minutes later it's like new again. Good for another ten years
@@stevengerig6247 I meant the tube that is behind the check valve in the pump. I took the check valve out and still no air flow from the pump to the tank.
@@toddac61 My bad! Yes, now I understand. Carb cleaner was the perfect solution!
Thank you so much for taking the time and putting this on RUclips I learned a lot thank you
Thanks so much for these videos. I already cleaned the generator on our old 431 model but after having seen this video, I feel more confident do more cleaning and maintenance in the future. I am saving this link for future reference!
Incredible. In the process of restoring an original 425 coleman stove. Wish I would've found this video sooner!
Wonderful series!! Very, very informative!!!
Thank you so much for your video. After watching was able to trouble shoot and fix my stove. Works like a dream now. 😉😁
And a perfect fix. Thanks boss.
Yes, very very informative, thank you
Great video Bob. Very informative! Thank you!!!
Thanks great video
Excellent, thank you for posting.
Great video
Very good
Gulp of beer every time he says "clean", shot of whiskey when he says "brass".
Thanks for sharing. Great job in explaining things.
I absolutely loved this video, as I use my gasoline camp stove daily for over 20 years now. I know how to clean the generator needle, but have not be able to get the spring out for a thorough cleaning. When the generator is new no problem, but once the carbon builds up it gets good and stuck in the tube. Any advice to get the spring out would be appreciated!! You also taught me the importance of maintaining the tank pick up tube, which I did not know before. Thank for for an excellent tutorial. Bruce the swimmer New Rochelle N.Y.
If the generator is that gunked up, you will need to remove the tube/spring/jet assembly from the stove. Place it in a vice, and remove the brass fitting from the end of the tube. Be careful, because the actual jet is a small brass piece that is held in the end of the tube by the fitting. It's easy for it to fall out on the floor and hide. Once the fitting is off, you can just push the spring out with a screwdriver or a piece of 3/16" wooden dowel. Clean all the pieces with alcohol or brake cleaner. Reassemble everything in reverse order and you should be good to go another 50,000 miles. :-)
@@sagebrushbob2321 Thank you Bob, I will take your advice and give it a go. If is still stuck perhaps I could fill the tube with some sort of solvent, letting it sit overnight to loosen the carbon hold on it. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, penetrating oil, or something you recommend?
@@stewartbruce2409 : I prefer using brake cleaner. It won't hurt plastic or rubber parts and it doesn't leave any oily or sticky residue behind.
@@sagebrushbob2321 Thank you Sir, will give it an overnight soak with brake cleaner, and let you know of the results. PS: last time I was at a coleman collectors meet was 1990 in Indiana and I camped out in the backyard of the fellow who had a magnificent coleman museum . Off hand can't quite remember his name, but his trade was the heating business. Perhaps you were there?
Thanks Again and again!
I will try cleaning my tank with bbs. Good idea.
Excellent!!!!! Thanks
I had an inconsistancy with fuel delivery and found my spring was backwards. works great now.. who knew?
Great video, thanks.
There's a resistance to pumping. After removing the valve, [ a large screwdriver worked fine ] I found the ball worked OK.
Thanks for the great rebuild vids! Have you considered doing the Military Coleman lantern rebuild?
I'd just wrap the tank with three t-shirts and duct tape it . Pour BB's into fuel tank close the cap Throw it in a dryer without any heat and spin it for 10 min. 💥 Boom 💥 clean tank. Take out BB's . I do that with motorcycle tank as well .
Thank you Sir.
hello my friend, thanks for your tips. Now I also have a question, I have a Coleman 523 cooker, unfortunately there is black rust or gummed-up impurities in the tank. what is the best way to clean the tank? thanks in advance.
I was thinking that. Take the tip off of the tube end and just run a 22 cal bronze brush through it. You can clean that tip off of the tube then to.
Wonder if a square drive socket would work on the valve body. All 4 sides would be gripped thus reducing chances of slipping and marring brass.
I find it interesting that knowing how valuable the little “poker” thing is at the end of the generator why everybody doesn’t insert it with the other end into the spring so you don’t get it caught. Especially when it’s been unscrewed from the valve dial?
It would be possible, but the very tiny screws that attach it to the valve stem almost need a microscope to see. You can just imagine how easy it would be to drop one, and then everything comes to a halt.
@@sagebrushbob2321 Yea I know. I have rebuilt probably about 10 stoves so far and I am currently working on a 443 that I found at a dump that was in surprisingly good condition for the fact it was about to become melted aluminum. Luckily I even was able to get it for free too. Now I just have to take a rubber mallet and various pieces of wood to shape the aluminum back into place and drop it in a vat of water and dawn (the soap not my girlfriend) to get rid of all the grease and grime and then it’s rebuild time!!!
Will a tank that's made for a 2 burner stove work on a 3 burner stove?
can't find graphite packing for powerhouse 414. Can you advise? Thanks Dan
Sir, u know what i did with my spring. I put the spring in my drill. And i use krud cutter on the green scotch brite. I hug the spring with the green scotch brite as yours and i run the drill. I slide the scrub pad up an down in a slow motion, with medium pressure. With hitting the drill trigger all the way. The spring comes out super clean. When i rinse it with water.. looks like brand new.
I took the generator of my 424 apart and found the spring to be in three pieces. Is there any situation in which this would be normal?
Hi Bob - I’m in Aus and I’m having trouble from my late model three burner Coleman stove- basically it floods and is quite dangerous as the fuel drips out of the burner and the burner tube when trying to light it and I end up with a growing fire in the stove box - the flame from the burner remains yellow and gets worse if I turn the lever from start to run - it’s quite dangerous- it was working fine up until a week ago - I watched your video and completely stripped the stove and cleaned everything though it wasn’t that dirty inside but after reassembly the problem remains- any ideas ? Can’t get Coleman fuel out here so I’ve been running it on White Spirits which I think is the same- any ideas?
Thanks for the video. Does anyone have advice on getting old fuel residue out of the tank? I don't know how long my tank has been sitting, but there is some gunk in there.
would vinager work for cleaning the tank?
I personally use white vinegar for cleaning fuel tanks. You would also be amazed how well boiling those brass parts in some lemon just then turn the stove off and let the parts sit a few hours in the lemon juice
Thank you for your instructions on cleaning the stove. I followed your instructions but when I light it up, the burners work very well however, there is a continual flame at the junction of the master burner body and the tube. I made sure I tighten up the screw well at the end (needle).
Any suggestions?
can that little pin that is inside the generator and attached to the black dial be removed from the dial i have a replacement ready to go for it but the pin seems to be attached permanently
Clean the needle as best you can, then look very closely at the point where it meets the larger tapered brass fitting. there should be two very small screws in the brass fitting that hold the needle in place. You will probably need a set of jewelers screwdrivers to fit them.
SAGEBRUSH BOB:
THANK YOU FOR YO COLEMAN VIDEOS. A QUICK TIP FROM A. MECHANIC WITH CLOSE TO 50 YEARS EXPERIENCE. RATHER THAN USING BRAKE PARTS CLEANER, I SUGGEST YOU USE CARBURETOR CLEANER. YOU WILL BE SURPRISED WITH SAID RESULTS. Please CONTINUE WITH YOUR YOU TUBE HOW TO VIDEOS. THANK YOU SIR!!!
Great video series Bob! I have a question though as I am restoring a coleman 424 dual burner that i inherited from my dad's camping gear. I was trying to pressurize the fuel tank and was getting no pressure to build up. I removed the pum and found the gasket was hardened and inflexible. Got the replacement and installed it but now i can depress the plunger to get pressure to build up. I know you mention that only in rare cases does the check valve need replacing. The fact that I can depress the plunger indicate that my check valve may be gunked up from the fuel side and need replacing?
Mine is gold...will a red tank which I believe is newer replace a gold tank on a 60's coleman stove? If you know? My tank is cross threaded so I need a new one but can't find just the tank and nobody selling one knows if it is good. They all say untested!
I am in need of help. I have model 404 (424, 428). I am unable to pump the pump. It was easy to do last summer but now almost impossible. I have replaced the pump but still is very hard to pump. What am I missing? also, when I took the pump apart there was no spring original piece. But, the replacement that I purchased has the spring and directions say to always use the spring. S, now i am confused.
Again, late to the party, but it looks like there's a hex head on the pin end of the generator tube. Would it make sense to remove that fitting, clean it separately, and use something like a .22 brush to clean the inside of the generator end to end?
Yes there is. It holds the fuel jet inside it that the needle fits in. You can remove it for cleaning, but be very careful not to lose that little jet. Its a pain to try and find a new one.
So what do you do when the run valve is leaking? My stove when pressurized leaks fuel out of the valve stem you point up/down for starting. No one seems to cover that in their videos.
First, try tightening the little nut that holds the lever in place just a little bit. If the lever gets tight and doesn't want to turn any more, back the nut off until is moves again. If it still leaks, remove the packing nut. There will be a small graphite packing washer behind it. You will need to replace it. Parts are available from Old Coleman Parts.com
Why aren’t you recommending using a tank sealer after rust removal inside the tank? After the BB treatment, doesn’t that remove all of the original tank coating?
Can you use Hoppe's #9 to clean the tube?
I have a duel fuel coleman two burner stove, when i pump the tank and tbe valve is shut, it still lets a tiny bit of fuel in the stove. But when i shut it off it stays simmering and doesn't turn off. Waited more tbe 30 minutes and flame does not shut off. I had to release the pressure by slowly turning the cap. What exactly is the issue here?
Probably wear and tear on the sealing surfaces inside the valve. You can try pulling out the valve stem ang generator needle assembly and cleaning everything inside and out. If it still leaks by, you will need to replace the valve assembly. Parts are available from the vendors shown in the description. Good luck!
@@sagebrushbob2321 I got a new tank and generator so it's all good now
Hey sir. I am wondering if Sea Foam would work as a cleaner.
Thank you for the video. I have done the rebuild and I still have a problem. The problem is that the valve cannot be shut off even with the dial off all the way. I think it has something to do with the pin position at the tip. As a result, the stove flame cannot be shut off and stays on at very low flame, as long as there is a pressure in the tank. I can force the flame to be out and the end of nozzle keeps on spraying the fuel until the tank pressure is all relieved. It may have something to do with how tight the each end of nozzles has to be. Should you see the needle end when you shut off the dial all the way? Help!
Did you fix it? Mine does that too
@@escapetherace1943 I messed around and ended up ruining the valve. But the problem has something to do with the positioning of pin at the end. You may have tightened the rod part too tight that the pin is a millimeter short to close at the tip. In the process of rebuilding, I may have tightened the rod too tight, is my guess (There are two screw ends at the rod). But then I am not an expert at this and I have ruined mine in an attempting to fix the problem so take my advice as a grain of salt. Maybe
Sagebrushbob can give us some insight on the topic...
@@michaelkim8666 hmm well mine works so no biggie, I have a backup generator but I want all the life out of the current one before I replace it. I'll probably take it apart and check that out soon
The fuel is not getting sucked up it being pushed up by the pressure ... just a clarification
Hello Sir.
My 424 unleaded fuel gave up today after only just a year in use. No gas is coming out of the nozzle. It’s got pressure in the tank. When I remove the nozzle, the fuel is coming through the generator but - when the nozzle is back on there’s no gas coming through.
Now the pin in the generator looks different to yours. There is no needle on the tip of my pin, that needle seems to be sitting in the nozzle... Is this how it was designed or is my needle broken off and stuck in the nozzle? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for a great video.
I got a 424 and I can say mine has a needle on the end exactly like this one here in Bobs video. in fact, apart from the colour of the tank and the location of the filler cap it is exactly the same as this so perhaps your needle is busted off and stuck in the jet (nozzle as you call it).
I'm currently servicing it hence why I'm watching these videos.
very goooooooooooooooood！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！！
You didn’t check the o rings on the fuel adjustment you don’t know if there bad
They only need changed if they are leaking while the stove is in use. They should be compressed as shown in the video. If they still leak with the compression nut tightened all the way, then they should be replaced. In all my time of rebuilding these, I've only replaced one packing ring.
@@sagebrushbob2321 Hi my 424 stove has been leaking from the valve. The packing ring seems to have disintegrated. I can't find a part number or where to get one. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks
Hi - I found some in the UK in the end.
However since repairing the valve it’s now started leaking from the lighting leaver. I’ve bought a whole new valve & generator assembly as time was against me
@@sagebrushbob2321 hey I came up with a great mod for the tank that on top of the tank to give it a everlasting pressure for the tank that I took a brass tire valve stem and drilled a hole on top of the tank and soldering the tractor tire valve stem to the tank for a emergency air filler for just incase the air pump fails ever since I put the valve stem on top of the tank I never had any problems or leaks with my mod for the tank but it be nice to make a video of the mod because after the valve stem is installed you can use a air compressor or bike tire pump to pump it up better than the original air pump on the tank but becareful to not over pressure the tank should be at a pressure of 65psi
Please wear nitrile gloves when using volatile cleaners.
🦝
TUCK FRUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yuck fou
Brake cleaner is known carcinogen. BAD STUFF
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My neighbor gave my father a 1954 in the box 425 b model they said it didn't work my father took it apart and cleaned everything works like new