Great! The internet has showed me that there are was more OCD people than I wanted to admit. It is good to see old school work around people not overly complicating repairs.
After watching your video I was able to get my check valve working again by soaking in carb cleaner and jiggling the ball end with a piece of wire. Now working perfectly.
Thanks for the video. Love your explanation, creating the tool tip and how to fix. Your video has helped me fix my Coleman stove twice now. Thanks again!
You should make a video of how to make a video. Your setup is a masterpiece in teaching and helping others. concise, precise and down to the point. Merci beaucoup.
Hey Bud, haven't seen any new content in awhile. U taught me reloading. Elvis n Fortune cookie helps with extras. U doing Coleman while I'm rebuilding old one made my day. Preciate it alot!
Man, that helps me a lot! I have a lantern that I have all but given up on getting that valve out of. Coleman suggested I send it to them and pay for the repair. So it has sat now in my shed a few years. You've given me hope on fixing it now. Thanks!
Great tutorial, it's dangerous to have a leaky check valve! Great idea on spade bit. I use a hammer impact 3 eighth inch drive with extension and large straight screw driver socket. I hold tank between my knees,set driver in slot, and with one to two licks and it's loose. I put check back in same way! Works great! Just another way to do it. Thanks for the great video! Jim from Kansas!
Just made a check valve removal tool using a 16mm spade bit , worked great, check valve cleaned and the stove is back to full working order... Thanks for the video
I had a stuck Check valve that would not allow air into the tank. After watching your video I pulled the Valve stem put a shot of penetration oil in the valve and let it sit a few minutes. Removed the gas cap, emptied the tank and put a shot of compressed air on the valve. it opened right up and works like it should now, Thanks for the Video.
Followed your directions regarding the cutting of the 1/2" spade drill bit......and it worked perfectly. The lantern had been sitting for 45 years, had to use some extra muscle to remove the check valve. Thank you for the excellent suggestion.
Got mine out using a cut down 1/2" spade bit as you mentioned. 3/4" will fit through the pump opening but not inside the collar of the check valve. I slowly worked my way up to 90% of full power with an 18V drill. Even started to twist the bit before it broke free. My check valve was good. Bigger problems in the combustor pipe so glad you worked on that.
I have a 413H Guide Series Power House stove I found in someone's garbage. I almost threw it out, again, but thought I would check the pump. It would not pump and create pressure. I took it apart and someone had tightened it sooooo tight that where the screw fit into the pump could not reach the screw. The pump would just spin and not tighten. Well, now it works perfectly and my wife prefers that stove. This was manufactured in 3/89 and has the better hinges on the lid (the lid will stay up without the windscreens being attached). This is good on non-windy days if you want bigger pans. I also have a Coleman 2 burner propane box stove similar to the one you fixed up in another video. Without the ignition system. It was manufactured in 3/93 and purchased from Big Lots for like 35$. Still works perfect. Could use a thorough cleaning (thanks for that video). Also has the better hinges on the lid that you don't have to put the wind screens in to keep the lid open. Thanks for your videos. I enjoy them and find them informative.
This is a great informative video. I also use the spade bit technique. I have several screw drivers with handles that look like yours. My screwdriver handles are damaged due to Labrador Retrievers. To put the check valve back in I attach it to the pump stem and pump then take it out and snug it with the spade bit. Glad you got it fixed man.
This worked for me with my biggest screwdriver, putting a wrench to the screwdriver's square shaft to break the initial resistance. Then once the check valve was completely loose in there, I screwed the square shafted needle valve back in to pull out the check valve from the cylinder without having to turn the tank over, since it still had fuel in it. Carb cleaner had it working in a jiffy! Thanks for the video!
Thank you sir for the great video it’s exactly what my issue was with my 425 no need to purchase a new check valve it’s working like new again. The spade bit tool fab is perfect. Thanks again.
Thanks so much, I bought a 12mm (1/2 inch, roughly) spade bit and sawed the end off. I put it in the drill but it diddn't seem to work. I used a 1/4 inch socket and used that on the end of the bit. Damn it was hard work as you said, but, it eventually came out. It was stuck (the ball and full of sh*%). I cleaned it with carb cleaner. It works like new now, LIKE BRAND NEW. I had the burner shrouds glowing red hot and that was in daylight!!!!!!!! Thanks again Legend.Cheers BobbyB (from down under)
The most important thing that I got out of this came toward the end; that air should not be blowing out through the pump hole when I’m done pumping and before I lock down the pump. Now I know I have a check valve to fix.
Thanks for the video. Yeah it’s hard to get out, but thanks to your advice. I gave up trying to take it out and used carburetor cleaner and that did the trick, I didn’t need to take it out.
I like the idea of using an old spade bit, but I'd grind the shaft square and put it in a large tap handle. Better control, better feel, you can easily push it down firmly into the check valve slot.
Big thanks i just cut down a spade bit, put it in my dewalt impact drive , held it in really tight and just flicked the trigger and came straight out. Unstuck and cleaned then put back and my lantern now works perfect - Thanks great practical advice
Thanks. This has been very useful. I have two Coleman lanterns with the same pump/ check valve arrangement and these have been left out in British rain for months. Pumps and check valves have to be removed , cleaned and re-installed.
Nice informative video. There is no need to remove the valve from your stove. You can do more damage than good by taking the valve apart. Just spray some WD-40 lubricant into the pump "oil" orifice and then pump. The solvent in the WD-40 will clean out the gum and lubricate the valve. If you are in the field, you can just put a little Coleman fuel into the pump and do the same thing.
I usually pump through brake cleaner, other's recommend acetone. Almost always that does the trick, BUT sometimes they don't work and you have to remove the valve. I've rebuilt dozens of stoves and lanterns and have only had to remove one.
@@insightman05, I think definitely not. I used to rinse the fuel tank just through the filling hole. You are not able to pour out all of the fuel this way, though, in most cases it is OK. If you would like to drain the tank completely, I suggest to insert some thin, flexible hose and suck it with a big syringe.
ATF .. vehicle automatic transmission fluid ...superb and very searching do a 50/50 mix with acetone one of the finest penetrating mixes to use .. not failed yet for me ... my check valve on the Colman lantern eased out ...with this ... acetone nail polish remover ...
You can usually fix a gummed up check valve with just spraying it with carb cleaner and compressed air. I have got a few of them out with a custom ground screwdriver. The same concept applies to your method. HOWEVER the best possible way to get them out is by purchasing a check valve tool from old coleman parts or someone else who makes them. The check valves are brass and are usually in there really tight its super easy to chip one out to the point where you render your stove tank useless or your lantern fount junk. Stripping a check valve equals destroying your stove/lantern. I am a coleman collector so I can justify buying the tool but if you have a really stuck valve don't risk breaking it find a collector in your area that has the tool or purchase the one online. I paid $25 for the tool. Keep the stove videos coming.
Thank you , I got my stove working again !!! I got my Chek valve out with my biggest flat screwdriver without any problems.and then cleaned it with a toothbrush and some break cleaner
The spade bit is a great idea. The parallel faces it has will be a lot better than any screwdriver you'll find. I discovered my check valve was leaking when I removed my thumb and gas squirted 2 ft out of the hole!!! Luckily it wasn't lit or I'd be extra crispy. That was a 400b where the flame is close to the pump.
Brilliant idea. I'm going to fire up my grinder this afternoon! Thanks for the tip. But as Explorer Mike (below) suggests pumping through WD40, or (I use) brake cleaner will almost always free a seized-up check valve.
👍GREAT VIDEO👍 Please keep informative vids coming, camping, car camping, preparedness and related vids are a must for getting out and enjoying nature and the world.
I have the same problem on my Coleman stove dual fuel. It can't hold any compressed air so I'm gonna do this to make my stove work again. Thanks for the video!
Spade bit...great hack! If you don't want to use a drill, use a spanner wrench or socket on the drill end of the spade bit. Use Permatex No1 for the threads. Supposedly, on a leaking check valve, the test is to pump up, open the pump and lightly put your finger on the hole....the pump will slowly rise up if the check valve leaks.
This is awesome man I have several Coleman devices that have faulty check valves I even had one check valve that allowed Fuel ⛽️ to come back out on me. I will give this a try thank you so much for the information. I think I have an old 1/2” paddle bit somewhere
I like the design of the factory tool to get that check valve out. I can probably make one out of a piece of thick wall steel pipe and a piece of all thread that screws into the check valve and a washer and a nut and welding a big nut onto the pipe. Or just use channel locks, vise grips or a pipe wrench to turn the pipe. Just trim the end of the pipe to fit in that groove.
Dude loves the 50cal Lolita have an 425e when using one burner it’s orange to rich but when I use two burner both sides run blue what’s going on with this thanks
I don't think he will answer. I'm a noob myself but perhaps you are pumping too much pressure into the tank. Too much fuel flow for 1 burner? Try 20 pumps, also don't overfill the tank.
Dang Squid. I sure do appreciate this post. Definitely have a faulty check valve in mine. Thought I was gonna have to go to ebay and by the tool and a used check valve. I will report my findings to see how it worked. -Knee Deep Sailor-
Brilliant video on check valve removal. I haven,t had to remove one yet, but your technique will really come in handy when needed. Great intro to the video, and I am sure you are a 2nd amendment supporter so I thank you for the tutorial, and your service to a free country!! Blessings from New Rochelle N.Y.
You're a fucking genius mate. Had this problem on a Coleman 533 stove. Was able to remove the check valve (they really tighten the fuck out of it) with a screwdriver which had a broken tip, so was quite a bit thicker and then vice grips on the screwdriver handle to loosen it. Heard a click (thought I'd broke the valve head off but it worked) and that was it loose. Took it out, gave it a clean (just clean petrol and a shake around) and it works fine now. For now anyway. As the check valve is buried so deep into the burner what I recommend is screwing on the brass pump rod that stays attached to the valve and using that to start screwing the check valve back in, then stop the check valve from turning with a small tipped screwdriver and loosen off the brass rod and tighten fully with a screwdriver, then reassemble as normal. Thanks a ton though, wouldn't have known where to start if it wasn't for this video.
good vid! i have some older coleman products and it’s time for some tlc and i’ve been scouring channels to get the scoop. thanks for a clear concise instructional video i may need parts and will take your other advice to find a local collector or repairman. how about a t-handle for your homemade extractor to do it by hand? maybe even a tap or die handle...
I have the opposite issue with my pump. When I try to pump, there is pressure and it feels as if the tank is fully pressured. This is with the cap off. I’ve turn the pump to the left several turns and thanks not the issue. I have sprayed some carb cleaner down the tube hole and left it for 10 minutes. After I dried everything off and put back together, I still can not pump any air in the tank. Thoughts? Thanks.
I tried taking it out and it wouldn't budge. Thought maybe it wasn't supposed to screw out. After I watched your video, I could confirm it unscrews. Had to hit the screwdriver with a hammer a few times and use a lot of force, bit it came loose. Great tip with the spade drill, thankfully, I didn't need it. This video could be under 5min BTW if you cut it aggressively.
Hello, great idea to use that tool for removing the check valve! I'm restoring a 242B and the tip cleaner is leaking, I already ordered from OCP, any tip how to take it out?. I see some guys use fire on the graphite packing and pull it out. Is there any other way?.
When i was little and camping with my dad i remember waking up at night and seeing the cleman lantern spraying fire out like a blowtorch with my dad and mom hollering trying to do something about it and they destroyed that thing . Smash smash crunch . . I bet the checkvalve blew backwards from sand or dirt in it .where that little metal ball is . I still have a coleman stove on the shelf i got for $3 at a thrift store . Inside the generator tube was looked like steel wool and black soot clogging the fuel flow . The whole stove burners were and still are black and sooty like oil and gas maybe . Can stainless steel cable replace the steel wool ? I cleaned it enough to run but the steel wool was crumbling so most of it stayed in there .
So, if after to pump air inside the tank and close the pump to the right i can ssfely use the stove/lantern, why is so important to remove and clean a faulty check valve?
the threads are stripped on the guiderod of pump assemble( its the part that that srews into the checkvalve he just cleaned. there is a small threaded 'spearhead' o the end of that rod....check the threads.
@@steveshapiro6825 i think all the coleman pump rods are the same(not sure about the stoves) but just buy a coleman lantern on craigslist for 10 and use the pump. i think coleman sells the pump rod too for like $7....the rod will have the brass 'spearhead' w threads ready to go. but i'd confirm the treads were stripped first (im 90% sure they are based on your symptoms)
Valve stuck but after I watched the video I understood the ball wasnt moving at all .Just so happens the diameter of a sharp dowel say the diameter of a chop stick is very useful as it is dry bamboo and makes a good tool to thread in to the ball ..after I reassembled ...it unstuck...thanks .
You showed us how to change, and a problem that I believe is going on,but I wouldn't use a drill to tighten and now you have brass metal shavings inside the tank or check valve. Best to use a mild lock tight or nothing. The Polish will not work with the fuel most likely.
If you use the guide rod to reinstall the check valve it's easier to do without cross threading the valve just screw the guide rod into the check valve and you can get it started and then use the spade bit to tighten it if you so desire
I don't need a check valve removal tool, yet. But I'm going to make one for the time that I may eventually need one. I like your idea of using a modified 1/2" spade bit. But I'm going to add a dowel rod that is 1" long and 1" diameter (turned down to about 0.875 diameter or slightly less) with a center hold drilled to the diameter of the spade bit shaft. I'll epoxy the dowel to the spade bit shaft. That should help keep the spade bit centered in the pump cylinder and on the check valve. Maybe a 3/4" dowel rod will work just as well (I'll have to do a test fit).
Very good video! One question, I have a single burner Coleman stove, the model is 520 of 1945, could you tell me where to get some parts, such as gaskets and leather seals
Awesome I need to work on all of mine and lanterns but got good deals on them cost more to fix them but one day I'll fix and give some away. But when I get ready to work I no your videos will help. God bless
I thought I'd try a short cut using a tip from your video. My check valve was leaking so having removed the pump, I just gave it a couple of squirts of WD40 using the long thin nozzle pressed to the valve. It worked!
Brilliant! I learned several things from this video! Thanks a lot! I have also seen the check valve remover tools. Is your drill a regular or is it an impact drill?
Taking bets on weather or not this guy has a dog , looks to me to be lab from the size of chew marks on that screwdriver lol 😂😂!! Great video guy keep em coming 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍God bless !!!!!!!!!!
You can burn kerosene but it will clog the generator before long. If it's an emergency or one time use it's not likely to be a problem. Unleaded gas is a better choice, much less buildup over time.
I’m confused. My Coleman stove is almost new. I bought it brand new and have used it about 5 times and it does the “air leak” you demonstrated. If that’s NOT supposed to happen, why would you need to hold your thumb over the hole when pumping and keep your thumb over the hole while tightened the pump knob? The Coleman instructions say to do that so it’s designed that way. I’m confused as to why that would indicate a faulty check valve. It seems like it’s designed that way. I always thought a faulty value would fail to pressurize the tank or would leak after being tightened. Can you clarify a little bit? Second question: How do you know if the nail polish is not going to react negatively with the oil or fuel? Couldn’t that potentially degrade and gunk up the fuel?
totallyfrozen if you put the thumb over the knob when you pump the tank up the air should go in the tank and not come back out when you remove your thumb from the pump... if air comes out when you remove your thumb before twisting it shut then you have a check valve issue... this doesn't necessarily mean that the check valve is bad it could be gummed up with oil or grease or something like that... I hope this helps!
Great! The internet has showed me that there are was more OCD people than I wanted to admit. It is good to see old school work around people not overly complicating repairs.
After watching your video I was able to get my check valve working again by soaking in carb cleaner and jiggling the ball end with a piece of wire. Now working perfectly.
@@davidcondie1880 Awesome
Thanks for the video. Love your explanation, creating the tool tip and how to fix. Your video has helped me fix my Coleman stove twice now. Thanks again!
You should make a video of how to make a video. Your setup is a masterpiece in teaching and helping others. concise, precise and down to the point. Merci beaucoup.
The paddle bit thing is frikken genius!
Hey Bud, haven't seen any new content in awhile. U taught me reloading. Elvis n Fortune cookie helps with extras. U doing Coleman while I'm rebuilding old one made my day. Preciate it alot!
Thank you, I upload all the time and new videos drop on Wednesday's!
Man, that helps me a lot! I have a lantern that I have all but given up on getting that valve out of. Coleman suggested I send it to them and pay for the repair. So it has sat now in my shed a few years. You've given me hope on fixing it now. Thanks!
Great tutorial, it's dangerous to have a leaky check valve! Great idea on spade bit. I use a hammer impact 3 eighth inch drive with extension and large straight screw driver socket. I hold tank between my knees,set driver in slot, and with one to two licks and it's loose. I put check back in same way! Works great! Just another way to do it. Thanks for the great video! Jim from Kansas!
Just made a check valve removal tool using a 16mm spade bit , worked great, check valve cleaned and the stove is back to full working order... Thanks for the video
I had a stuck Check valve that would not allow air into the tank. After watching your video I pulled the Valve stem put a shot of penetration oil in the valve and let it sit a few minutes. Removed the gas cap, emptied the tank and put a shot of compressed air on the valve. it opened right up and works like it should now, Thanks for the Video.
Worked for us! TY, mate!
Followed your directions regarding the cutting of the 1/2" spade drill bit......and it worked perfectly. The lantern had been sitting for 45 years, had to use some extra muscle to remove the check valve. Thank you for the excellent suggestion.
Thanks for your videox and all that you do! 😊👍🏻 Great work, great camera, and great sound.
Got mine out using a cut down 1/2" spade bit as you mentioned. 3/4" will fit through the pump opening but not inside the collar of the check valve. I slowly worked my way up to 90% of full power with an 18V drill. Even started to twist the bit before it broke free. My check valve was good. Bigger problems in the combustor pipe so glad you worked on that.
I have a 413H Guide Series Power House stove I found in someone's garbage. I almost threw it out, again, but thought I would check the pump. It would not pump and create pressure. I took it apart and someone had tightened it sooooo tight that where the screw fit into the pump could not reach the screw. The pump would just spin and not tighten. Well, now it works perfectly and my wife prefers that stove.
This was manufactured in 3/89 and has the better hinges on the lid (the lid will stay up without the windscreens being attached). This is good on non-windy days if you want bigger pans.
I also have a Coleman 2 burner propane box stove similar to the one you fixed up in another video. Without the ignition system. It was manufactured in 3/93 and purchased from Big Lots for like 35$. Still works perfect. Could use a thorough cleaning (thanks for that video). Also has the better hinges on the lid that you don't have to put the wind screens in to keep the lid open.
Thanks for your videos. I enjoy them and find them informative.
Thanks for this video. I just picked up a stove for $10 and think it has a bad check valve. Now I know how to get it out!
That spade bit is a great idea, it worked perfectly for me on 2 separate check valves. Thanks man!
This is a great informative video. I also use the spade bit technique. I have several screw drivers with handles that look like yours. My screwdriver handles are damaged due to Labrador Retrievers.
To put the check valve back in I attach it to the pump stem and pump then take it out and snug it with the spade bit. Glad you got it fixed man.
This worked for me with my biggest screwdriver, putting a wrench to the screwdriver's square shaft to break the initial resistance. Then once the check valve was completely loose in there, I screwed the square shafted needle valve back in to pull out the check valve from the cylinder without having to turn the tank over, since it still had fuel in it. Carb cleaner had it working in a jiffy! Thanks for the video!
Thank you sir for the great video it’s exactly what my issue was with my 425 no need to purchase a new check valve it’s working like new again. The spade bit tool fab is perfect. Thanks again.
Thanks so much, I bought a 12mm (1/2 inch, roughly) spade bit and sawed the end off. I put it in the drill but it diddn't seem to work. I used a 1/4 inch socket and used that on the end of the bit. Damn it was hard work as you said, but, it eventually came out. It was stuck (the ball and full of sh*%). I cleaned it with carb cleaner.
It works like new now, LIKE BRAND NEW. I had the burner shrouds glowing red hot and that was in daylight!!!!!!!!
Thanks again Legend.Cheers BobbyB (from down under)
The most important thing that I got out of this came toward the end; that air should not be blowing out through the pump hole when I’m done pumping and before I lock down the pump. Now I know I have a check valve to fix.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm rebuilding a 1968 220f now. Good timing on finding your video.
Love Coleman lanterns and stoves and a collector. Always looking at new ways of doing things. From Sydney Australia.
Thanks for the video. Yeah it’s hard to get out, but thanks to your advice. I gave up trying to take it out and used carburetor cleaner and that did the trick, I didn’t need to take it out.
I like the idea of using an old spade bit, but I'd grind the shaft square and put it in a large tap handle. Better control, better feel, you can easily push it down firmly into the check valve slot.
Big thanks i just cut down a spade bit, put it in my dewalt impact drive , held it in really tight and just flicked the trigger and came straight out. Unstuck and cleaned then put back and my lantern now works perfect - Thanks great practical advice
Thank you! Exactly what I needed to know to fix my stove.
Thanks. This has been very useful. I have two Coleman lanterns with the same pump/ check valve arrangement and these have been left out in British rain for months. Pumps and check valves have to be removed , cleaned and re-installed.
Nice informative video. There is no need to remove the valve from your stove. You can do more damage than good by taking the valve apart. Just spray some WD-40 lubricant into the pump "oil" orifice and then pump. The solvent in the WD-40 will clean out the gum and lubricate the valve. If you are in the field, you can just put a little Coleman fuel into the pump and do the same thing.
I usually pump through brake cleaner, other's recommend acetone. Almost always that does the trick, BUT sometimes they don't work and you have to remove the valve. I've rebuilt dozens of stoves and lanterns and have only had to remove one.
Ross, should you remove the valve if you flush the tank to remove rust?
@@insightman05, I think definitely not. I used to rinse the fuel tank just through the filling hole. You are not able to pour out all of the fuel this way, though, in most cases it is OK. If you would like to drain the tank completely, I suggest to insert some thin, flexible hose and suck it with a big syringe.
ATF .. vehicle automatic transmission fluid ...superb and very searching do a 50/50 mix with acetone
one of the finest penetrating mixes to use .. not failed yet for me ... my check valve on the Colman lantern eased out ...with this ... acetone nail polish remover ...
I recommend Lacquer thinner as a solvent.
You can usually fix a gummed up check valve with just spraying it with carb cleaner and compressed air. I have got a few of them out with a custom ground screwdriver. The same concept applies to your method. HOWEVER the best possible way to get them out is by purchasing a check valve tool from old coleman parts or someone else who makes them. The check valves are brass and are usually in there really tight its super easy to chip one out to the point where you render your stove tank useless or your lantern fount junk. Stripping a check valve equals destroying your stove/lantern. I am a coleman collector so I can justify buying the tool but if you have a really stuck valve don't risk breaking it find a collector in your area that has the tool or purchase the one online. I paid $25 for the tool. Keep the stove videos coming.
Excellent info, Thank you!
Great job on the video,,, keep in mind the small hole in the plunger assembly allows air in on the upstroke.. remove thumb on the upstroke..
Tried spraying it over a couple of hours, had to make the spade bit tool in the end and remove it.
Use a screwdriver and Never a drill .
That was awesome. Dad and Ricky are going to rebuild ours after watching this. 👍💪😎
Excellent! Thank you for stopping by!
I love the coleman restoration vids that you do.
Thank you , I got my stove working again !!! I got my Chek valve out with my biggest flat screwdriver without any problems.and then cleaned it with a toothbrush and some break cleaner
Excellent!
Thanks for a great idea on the half-inch spade bit. I will grind one down to remove mine. I love these great old stoves. God Bless you and take care.
Tx for the info! I couldn't get the check valve out but I was able to still get it cleaned out with some break cleaner. Problem solved!
Thanks for the tip about the paddle bit 👍 I learned something new today so it hasn't been a wasted day. Keep on rolling brother
The spade bit is a great idea. The parallel faces it has will be a lot better than any screwdriver you'll find. I discovered my check valve was leaking when I removed my thumb and gas squirted 2 ft out of the hole!!! Luckily it wasn't lit or I'd be extra crispy. That was a 400b where the flame is close to the pump.
Brilliant idea. I'm going to fire up my grinder this afternoon! Thanks for the tip. But as Explorer Mike (below) suggests pumping through WD40, or (I use) brake cleaner will almost always free a seized-up check valve.
👍GREAT VIDEO👍
Please keep informative vids coming, camping, car camping, preparedness and related vids are a must for getting out and enjoying nature and the world.
Thank you! Will do!!
This is the information I was needing, thanks for the video!
Me too .
Thanks for the video now I know where the check valve is and where it is
I have the same problem on my Coleman stove dual fuel. It can't hold any compressed air so I'm gonna do this to make my stove work again. Thanks for the video!
Spade bit...great hack! If you don't want to use a drill, use a spanner wrench or socket on the drill end of the spade bit. Use Permatex No1 for the threads. Supposedly, on a leaking check valve, the test is to pump up, open the pump and lightly put your finger on the hole....the pump will slowly rise up if the check valve leaks.
This is awesome man I have several Coleman devices that have faulty check valves I even had one check valve that allowed Fuel ⛽️ to come back out on me. I will give this a try thank you so much for the information. I think I have an old 1/2” paddle bit somewhere
Did exactly as in the video and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
Nice job...Navy Seal !! Thank You for your service !!!
Thank you. Navy veteran, not a seal. Big supporter of therm. Have a few friends that are. Blessings from Arizona!
if you left a little bit of the drill point on would that help center the screw drill bit over the slot?
No . Because needle valve will be besting there and you don't want to mess that up inside.
I like the design of the factory tool to get that check valve out. I can probably make one out of a piece of thick wall steel pipe and a piece of all thread that screws into the check valve and a washer and a nut and welding a big nut onto the pipe. Or just use channel locks, vise grips or a pipe wrench to turn the pipe. Just trim the end of the pipe to fit in that groove.
Thanks for helping me fix my dual fuel burner
Thank u thank u!! BIG help!
Greetings from the Netherlands !
Always great tips brother
Here's an esoteric inquiry: in a catalytic gas heater, does a flame burn on the wick under the dome?
Great info been trying to fix mine for a long time you have solved my problems thanks
The spade bit trick is perfect!
Great vid dude. Helped a lot. Thanks.
Dude loves the 50cal Lolita have an 425e when using one burner it’s orange to rich but when I use two burner both sides run blue what’s going on with this thanks
I don't think he will answer. I'm a noob myself but perhaps you are pumping too much pressure into the tank. Too much fuel flow for 1 burner? Try 20 pumps, also don't overfill the tank.
Very cool. I am working on some lanterns and stoves.
Dang Squid. I sure do appreciate this post. Definitely have a faulty check valve in mine.
Thought I was gonna have to go to ebay and by the tool and a used check valve.
I will report my findings to see how it worked.
-Knee Deep Sailor-
Brilliant video on check valve removal. I haven,t had to remove one yet, but your technique will really come in handy when needed. Great intro to the video, and I am sure you are a 2nd amendment supporter so I thank you for the tutorial, and your service to a free country!! Blessings from New Rochelle N.Y.
Good job, This was very helpful. Thanks
You're a fucking genius mate.
Had this problem on a Coleman 533 stove.
Was able to remove the check valve (they really tighten the fuck out of it) with a screwdriver which had a broken tip, so was quite a bit thicker and then vice grips on the screwdriver handle to loosen it. Heard a click (thought I'd broke the valve head off but it worked) and that was it loose.
Took it out, gave it a clean (just clean petrol and a shake around) and it works fine now. For now anyway.
As the check valve is buried so deep into the burner what I recommend is screwing on the brass pump rod that stays attached to the valve and using that to start screwing the check valve back in, then stop the check valve from turning with a small tipped screwdriver and loosen off the brass rod and tighten fully with a screwdriver, then reassemble as normal.
Thanks a ton though, wouldn't have known where to start if it wasn't for this video.
good vid! i have some older coleman products and it’s time for some tlc and i’ve been scouring channels to get the scoop. thanks for a clear concise instructional video
i may need parts and will take your other advice to find a local collector or repairman. how about a t-handle for your homemade extractor to do it by hand? maybe even a tap or die handle...
I have the opposite issue with my pump. When I try to pump, there is pressure and it feels as if the tank is fully pressured. This is with the cap off. I’ve turn the pump to the left several turns and thanks not the issue. I have sprayed some carb cleaner down the tube hole and left it for 10 minutes. After I dried everything off and put back together, I still can not pump any air in the tank. Thoughts? Thanks.
Good idea for making a tool! Most checkvalves can be salvaged. Great video!👍
I tried taking it out and it wouldn't budge. Thought maybe it wasn't supposed to screw out. After I watched your video, I could confirm it unscrews. Had to hit the screwdriver with a hammer a few times and use a lot of force, bit it came loose. Great tip with the spade drill, thankfully, I didn't need it.
This video could be under 5min BTW if you cut it aggressively.
Thank you! This video was one before I edited videos
Fantastic presentation thankyou going to try this rite away 😀
Good info about the spade bit👍🏻
Hello, great idea to use that tool for removing the check valve! I'm restoring a 242B and the tip cleaner is leaking, I already ordered from OCP, any tip how to take it out?. I see some guys use fire on the graphite packing and pull it out. Is there any other way?.
When i was little and camping with my dad i remember waking up at night and seeing the cleman lantern spraying fire out like a blowtorch with my dad and mom hollering trying to do something about it and they destroyed that thing . Smash smash crunch . . I bet the checkvalve blew backwards from sand or dirt in it .where that little metal ball is .
I still have a coleman stove on the shelf i got for $3 at a thrift store .
Inside the generator tube was looked like steel wool and black soot clogging the fuel flow . The whole stove burners were and still are black and sooty like oil and gas maybe . Can stainless steel cable replace the steel wool ? I cleaned it enough to run but the steel wool was crumbling so most of it stayed in there .
So, if after to pump air inside the tank and close the pump to the right i can ssfely use the stove/lantern, why is so important to remove and clean a faulty check valve?
If the check valve is working, why the need to cover the hole while screwing the pump valve tight?
Thank you great informative vid I know how to fix my problem now
Do you know where I can buy a air check valve for a model 400 a backpacking stove? Thank you, Jeff
now that was a great idea using a spade bit ,going to the barn to make mine now,,,,,thank you sir
I have the colemans sporster 533 stove, and the pump wont lock after pumping, any ideas, perhaps new pump???
I have a 413G with the same issue. Any help would be appreciated.
the threads are stripped on the guiderod of pump assemble( its the part that that srews into the checkvalve he just cleaned. there is a small threaded 'spearhead' o the end of that rod....check the threads.
@@crabtrap is there a fix for this? I have the same problem on a 159A lamp.
@@steveshapiro6825 i think all the coleman pump rods are the same(not sure about the stoves) but just buy a coleman lantern on craigslist for 10 and use the pump. i think coleman sells the pump rod too for like $7....the rod will have the brass 'spearhead' w threads ready to go. but i'd confirm the treads were stripped first (im 90% sure they are based on your symptoms)
can you clean the check valve while its in the tank??
Valve stuck but after I watched the video I understood the ball wasnt moving at all .Just so happens the diameter of a sharp dowel say the diameter of a chop stick is very useful as it is dry bamboo and makes a good tool to thread in to the ball ..after I reassembled ...it unstuck...thanks .
You showed us how to change, and a problem that I believe is going on,but I wouldn't use a drill to tighten and now you have brass metal shavings inside the tank or check valve. Best to use a mild lock tight or nothing. The Polish will not work with the fuel most likely.
If you use the guide rod to reinstall the check valve it's easier to do without cross threading the valve just screw the guide rod into the check valve and you can get it started and then use the spade bit to tighten it if you so desire
Have a three burner stove, My issue is I can't push the pump down...
I don't need a check valve removal tool, yet. But I'm going to make one for the time that I may eventually need one. I like your idea of using a modified 1/2" spade bit. But I'm going to add a dowel rod that is 1" long and 1" diameter (turned down to about 0.875 diameter or slightly less) with a center hold drilled to the diameter of the spade bit shaft. I'll epoxy the dowel to the spade bit shaft. That should help keep the spade bit centered in the pump cylinder and on the check valve. Maybe a 3/4" dowel rod will work just as well (I'll have to do a test fit).
www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjqpIPc9KrnAhUWpLMKHXUmDvoYABADGgJxbg&sig=AOD64_3sjdwqW_KalZN8yGMHo8Wk0zjd2g&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjFl_nb9KrnAhVCknIEHRiVDiUQ9aACegQIEhA7&adurl=
Great vid!! What's the fix if your tank doesn't pressurize?
Thank you... the pump or a leak in tank??
Very good video! One question, I have a single burner Coleman stove, the model is 520 of 1945, could you tell me where to get some parts, such as gaskets and leather seals
oldcolemanparts.com
Awesome I need to work on all of mine and lanterns but got good deals on them cost more to fix them but one day I'll fix and give some away. But when I get ready to work I no your videos will help. God bless
Danny Schwab I have a Coleman stove says 426...three burners round copper tank any idea what year it may be?
I thought I'd try a short cut using a tip from your video. My check valve was leaking so having removed the pump, I just gave it a couple of squirts of WD40 using the long thin nozzle pressed to the valve.
It worked!
Great video fella, these are a devil to remove. It seems to be a weak point with these great stoves.
Hmm
Could come in handy with my 550b and powerhouse projects. :)
Thanks
Tried this method on my lantern. Didn’t work but was worth a try. It is really seized in.
You can get a check valve removal tool off of eBay
Thanks for the tip. Very helpful video.
Where is a blockage likely on a 576 that pumps up but never lets out fuel?
Brilliant! I learned several things from this video! Thanks a lot! I have also seen the check valve remover tools. Is your drill a regular or is it an impact drill?
just in case, where would one buy a stove or lantern check valve
Old coleman parts dot com
Weld a nut to the end of the spade drill might also be choice for those check valves removal.
Taking bets on weather or not this guy has a dog , looks to me to be lab from the size of chew marks on that screwdriver lol 😂😂!! Great video guy keep em coming 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍God bless !!!!!!!!!!
@@paparedpill1036 Comment of the day goes to... lol... thank you,,, God bless you
Great tutorial. Gotta love the pink nail polish.. it matches my saw. Lol
How can you convert a Coleman stove to use kerosene?
You can burn kerosene but it will clog the generator before long. If it's an emergency or one time use it's not likely to be a problem. Unleaded gas is a better choice, much less buildup over time.
Thanks. Great content.
Looks like a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning brush and swabs would fit down that cavity really nice to clean it.
I’m confused. My Coleman stove is almost new. I bought it brand new and have used it about 5 times and it does the “air leak” you demonstrated. If that’s NOT supposed to happen, why would you need to hold your thumb over the hole when pumping and keep your thumb over the hole while tightened the pump knob? The Coleman instructions say to do that so it’s designed that way. I’m confused as to why that would indicate a faulty check valve. It seems like it’s designed that way. I always thought a faulty value would fail to pressurize the tank or would leak after being tightened.
Can you clarify a little bit?
Second question: How do you know if the nail polish is not going to react negatively with the oil or fuel? Couldn’t that potentially degrade and gunk up the fuel?
totallyfrozen if you put the thumb over the knob when you pump the tank up the air should go in the tank and not come back out when you remove your thumb from the pump... if air comes out when you remove your thumb before twisting it shut then you have a check valve issue... this doesn't necessarily mean that the check valve is bad it could be gummed up with oil or grease or something like that... I hope this helps!
JIUJITSU2000 good video. Thanks! Now I think I’ll revisit my stove and my lantern and get them cleaned up.
Thanks for this video!