You're a good man Bob. I'm restoring a 425B currently and had to come back and watch this again to get the name of that paint you mentioned. It has red paint on the fuel tank at the moment but after wire brushing it by hand I saw that the tank was originally a bronze color I believe so that's what I plan on painting it but it doesn't have to be the high heat thankfully. The entire body of the stove needs paint but it's in good shape other than that and I looked up the production years and I saw that it was between 1954-1962 so I feel like it's worth going through the trouble of doing a complete restoration. Your videos are inspiring and helpful!
Found one that was left in a garage since the med 70's full of fuel (free). Complete stove unit. Assembled it and pumped up the tank which held pressure and fired up the stove, old fuel and it burned fine. Boiled some water and fried some eggs and bacon in a frying pan. Going to clean it up and inspect the inside of the tank.
Thank you for the video. I just pulled out a late 70s era 425 that has been sitting idle for 25+ years with gas still in the tank. I was planning on needing to rebuild but it started up just fine, even with 25+ year old gas!!!
These videos are a god send. I just snagged a 426B (3 burner model) with a bronze colored tank (so 60s erra according to you) and a old school steel leg stand. These videos have been gold. I'm using evapo-rust on everything but the burner unit you have shown here (taking your advise that getting moisture into the tube would be bad). I'm trying to clean up the grill grate and tossed the burners in as well. I've found carb cleaner works pretty good at cleaning off the gas deposits on the tank parts.
Well done and informative, thank you. Your video was the only one I could find that highlighted my problem. I recently purchased one similar to this, and the warmer valve is on the stiff side. It was very well taken care of, so I think I just need to oil those threads.
Can you do a video on propane conversion parts??? I have an old 3-burner and I bought a propane conversion kit and can't seem to get it to run right. Are these old Coleman's just not capable of efficiently running propane???
Thank you for posting such a comprehensive video. I have two stoves I am thinking of restoring. Do you think it would hurt the burner parts to put them into a media blast cabinet to clean them up? I would only clean the parts that would be visible - not any parts on the inside.
Good catch! The washers were, indeed, reversed on teardown. You could tell by how clean most of the parts were that someone had been in there in the not-too-distant past. They must have reversed the washers when they reassembled it. I was too busy talking to the camera to notice it at the time, and only realized what happened when I was doing the editing.
Again, I'm late to the party. The last piece you removed from the secondary burner was a big metal washer, but I didn't see one on the primary burner. Should there be one on the primary burner?
That part is a flow restrictor that belongs on the main burner washer stack. Evidently the previous owner had taken it apart in the past and mixed up the parts. I was so busy with the video that I didn't pay attention when I took that apart. I didn't catch it until I edited everything. By then it was too late. Oops!
I just picked up a 3-burner Coleman 426D. The tank is from 1970. It is on the cusp of restoring, but I haven't seen many options in the 3-burner stoves, so I would like to try and additionally because it would allow me to put a skillet on it with a coffee pot! It is much rougher condition than the one in your video, though. What is the best way to clean and preserve the actual grill which is rusty? Can I take a wire wheel to it? Should I soak in Evaporust? Also, do you have any advice with painting the tank. The flame isn't very prominent, but is a blue flame on all of the burners with some fresh Coleman Fuel. Again, thank you for your awesome and detailed video series. I restored a couple of vintage sewing machines and now this has caught my interest.
Good catch! Whoever had the stove before me had evidently had it apart and mixed them up. I was so busy doing the video that I didn't notice it when I took it all apart. I caught it when I reviewed all the video, but then it was too late.
Great videos! Could you soak the burners in brake cleaner for the same result (especially if your burners are rusty). Just a thought. Again, thanks for the video. Getting ready to refurbish a 3 burner and 2 burner, both from the 1960’s.
If the burner rings are steel and rusty what about dropping them in a jug of Coke or the dollar store equivalent. The acid is very good at cleaning up steel.
I boiled vinegar and salt and used that and a thin bristle wire brush to clean mine then after that I used steel SOS pads then made sure they were completely dry
sage, i found my old coleman stuff, it is missing the tank. it was made in 5/72. has a bit of rust on the outside case and burners. can it still be brought back to life and can i get another tank.
So far this is a very good and helpful video. I can’t get the flathead screw to turn that holds on the burner assembly. My husband and strong son tried it too. Any ideas?
Not necessary to mention all those wrenches and needle nose pliers for this segment. You needed only the proper screwdriver for disassembly of the burner unit. Then the wire wheel, drill and safety gear. Introducing the wrenches was confusing because they never showed up again in this segment, they are only needed for working with the fuel tank.
If you are not going to paint the burner gallery a cloth dipped in paraffin (Kerosene) will loosen dirt and surface rust. Sagebrushbob never seen an American selling for "Eejit" before.
So far this is a very good and helpful video. I can’t get the flathead screw to turn that holds on the burner assembly. My husband and strong son tried it too. Any ideas?
No doubt it's rusted. Try pouring about a 1/2 tsp of penetrating oil into the little depression where the head of the screw is and let it sit for a couple of hours. If the oil disappears, try to loosen the screw . If it won't go, place a screwdriver in the slot on the screw head and give it a few raps with a hammer. You may have to repeat this a couple of times if it's really rusted, but It will break free eventually. Another thing you can try, believe it or not, is to pour a little Coca-Cola on it if you don't have penetrating oil. It works quite well as a rust remover. Good luck!
You're a good man Bob. I'm restoring a 425B currently and had to come back and watch this again to get the name of that paint you mentioned. It has red paint on the fuel tank at the moment but after wire brushing it by hand I saw that the tank was originally a bronze color I believe so that's what I plan on painting it but it doesn't have to be the high heat thankfully. The entire body of the stove needs paint but it's in good shape other than that and I looked up the production years and I saw that it was between 1954-1962 so I feel like it's worth going through the trouble of doing a complete restoration. Your videos are inspiring and helpful!
Really enjoying this series and learning a lot. Thank you!
Found one that was left in a garage since the med 70's full of fuel (free). Complete stove unit. Assembled it and pumped up the tank which held pressure and fired up the stove, old fuel and it burned fine. Boiled some water and fried some eggs and bacon in a frying pan. Going to clean it up and inspect the inside of the tank.
Thank you so much dude and on to part 3 with my 1966 resto project....
Thank you for the video. I just pulled out a late 70s era 425 that has been sitting idle for 25+ years with gas still in the tank. I was planning on needing to rebuild but it started up just fine, even with 25+ year old gas!!!
Thanks for the update on the burners. Learned alot. Good video 👍🏻😎
These videos are a god send. I just snagged a 426B (3 burner model) with a bronze colored tank (so 60s erra according to you) and a old school steel leg stand. These videos have been gold. I'm using evapo-rust on everything but the burner unit you have shown here (taking your advise that getting moisture into the tube would be bad). I'm trying to clean up the grill grate and tossed the burners in as well. I've found carb cleaner works pretty good at cleaning off the gas deposits on the tank parts.
Great videos!! Highly recommended!!!
Good points about the gloves and metal bits flying off.
Well done and informative, thank you. Your video was the only one I could find that highlighted my problem. I recently purchased one similar to this, and the warmer valve is on the stiff side. It was very well taken care of, so I think I just need to oil those threads.
Is that the grey or aluminum color for the spray can?
What about spray painting the components of each of the two burners, both primary and warming, with the VHT paint?
What specific VHT did you use to paint the burner assembly? Thank you.
The fuel is actually heated way above its boiling point, which causes it to flash into vapor when it leaves the generator.
Thanks!!
Very good
Can you do a video on propane conversion parts??? I have an old 3-burner and I bought a propane conversion kit and can't seem to get it to run right. Are these old Coleman's just not capable of efficiently running propane???
Thank you for posting such a comprehensive video. I have two stoves I am thinking of restoring. Do you think it would hurt the burner parts to put them into a media blast cabinet to clean them up? I would only clean the parts that would be visible - not any parts on the inside.
You played the classic shell game with those burner cups and washers. I'd swear you mixed up the left parts with the right parts.
Good catch! The washers were, indeed, reversed on teardown. You could tell by how clean most of the parts were that someone had been in there in the not-too-distant past. They must have reversed the washers when they reassembled it. I was too busy talking to the camera to notice it at the time, and only realized what happened when I was doing the editing.
Again, I'm late to the party. The last piece you removed from the secondary burner was a big metal washer, but I didn't see one on the primary burner. Should there be one on the primary burner?
That part is a flow restrictor that belongs on the main burner washer stack. Evidently the previous owner had taken it apart in the past and mixed up the parts. I was so busy with the video that I didn't pay attention when I took that apart. I didn't catch it until I edited everything. By then it was too late. Oops!
@@sagebrushbob2321 fair enough. If it works well enough without it then it wasn't that important to start with.
Is the shape of the generator important? Would a round u shaped tube work?
I just picked up a 3-burner Coleman 426D. The tank is from 1970. It is on the cusp of restoring, but I haven't seen many options in the 3-burner stoves, so I would like to try and additionally because it would allow me to put a skillet on it with a coffee pot! It is much rougher condition than the one in your video, though. What is the best way to clean and preserve the actual grill which is rusty? Can I take a wire wheel to it? Should I soak in Evaporust? Also, do you have any advice with painting the tank. The flame isn't very prominent, but is a blue flame on all of the burners with some fresh Coleman Fuel. Again, thank you for your awesome and detailed video series. I restored a couple of vintage sewing machines and now this has caught my interest.
If all 3 burners are lit, close one at a time and the flame should increase on the other burner/burners.
Do you ever paint the washers? I live in a high humidity area and my washers are quite rusted. Can you buy replacement washers? Thank you.
You mixed up the washers when you spoke about not mixing the washers
Good catch! Whoever had the stove before me had evidently had it apart and mixed them up. I was so busy doing the video that I didn't notice it when I took it all apart. I caught it when I reviewed all the video, but then it was too late.
Dremel with a small wire wheel would work great.
Do you use brake cleaner to clean your parts ?
Great videos! Could you soak the burners in brake cleaner for the same result (especially if your burners are rusty). Just a thought. Again, thanks for the video. Getting ready to refurbish a 3 burner and 2 burner, both from the 1960’s.
If the burner rings are steel and rusty what about dropping them in a jug of Coke or the dollar store equivalent. The acid is very good at cleaning up steel.
I boiled vinegar and salt and used that and a thin bristle wire brush to clean mine then after that I used steel SOS pads then made sure they were completely dry
Do you bake the piece the cure the paint?
sage, i found my old coleman stuff, it is missing the tank. it was made in 5/72. has a bit of rust on the outside case and burners. can it still be brought back to life and can i get another tank.
So far this is a very good and helpful video. I can’t get the flathead screw to turn that holds on the burner assembly. My husband and strong son tried it too. Any ideas?
Couple drops of penetrating oil and let it sit for a bit. That should dissolve up the rust. Don’t try to force it, it will just strip the screw head.
thxs for the help i just bought one for 8$ in way worst shape.
would cold galvanizing paint work as a base coat?
Any ideas, my mixing chamber, the square part after the generator, is leaking
Not necessary to mention all those wrenches and needle nose pliers for this segment. You needed only the proper screwdriver for disassembly of the burner unit. Then the wire wheel, drill and safety gear. Introducing the wrenches was confusing because they never showed up again in this segment, they are only needed for working with the fuel tank.
Hi love you video. I can’t loosen the flathead screw on the burner assembly. Any ideas?
See comment on 1st video.
If you are not going to paint the burner gallery a cloth dipped in paraffin (Kerosene) will loosen dirt and surface rust.
Sagebrushbob never seen an American selling for "Eejit" before.
This was in a thrift store because the disk was on the wrong burner and it probably wasn't working.
Check out this link! ruclips.net/video/OKgF4PDueLQ/видео.html
🦝
So far this is a very good and helpful video. I can’t get the flathead screw to turn that holds on the burner assembly. My husband and strong son tried it too. Any ideas?
No doubt it's rusted. Try pouring about a 1/2 tsp of penetrating oil into the little depression where the head of the screw is and let it sit for a couple of hours. If the oil disappears, try to loosen the screw . If it won't go, place a screwdriver in the slot on the screw head and give it a few raps with a hammer. You may have to repeat this a couple of times if it's really rusted, but It will break free eventually. Another thing you can try, believe it or not, is to pour a little Coca-Cola on it if you don't have penetrating oil. It works quite well as a rust remover. Good luck!