Looking at your setup I can see a possible reason for the oil coming out literally the same way it went in first lower temperatures heating it slow is definitely the way to go but more than that the pipe that come straight up off of your reaction vessel if you stuff that with stainless steel wool it will act to give you a fractioning column and only let the lighter fractions i.e. gasoline and diesel come over while refluxing the heavier hydrocarbons until they turn into lighter hydrocarbons via cracking. Also when you build the new one try using a 2 inch pipe coming off the top for at least 3 feet where are you put the steel wall inside that will give you more space for fractioning. Hope this helps as always love the videos!
The pipe is stuffed with stainless steel wool, but I do need to make it bigger as you mentioned. I don't have the footage, but if I do a very slow run, I do get better fractionation. Thanks!
Hello my young Entrepreneuring friend. Great job, you are on your way to making clean useable diesel. I am thankful you include everything in the videos. With fuel prices a 6 bucks a gallon here in California I will soon be following you in the manufacture of diesel like fuel for my trucks. Be safe my young friend. God bless you and your family.
Great stuff man! Really love your project, I would love to replicate what you're doing once it's a little more refined. I see this as a huge community booster and great way to actively stay involved in waste management.
awesome sauce...bonus points for not catching yourself on fire. I would add a collection container. A big one, with a vent pipe that goes up in the air a little bit.
I love how you show what could happen if you don't plan ahead or know what you're doing. Mistakes are how we learn, I forgot how many tries it took Edison to make the light bulb but he didn't look at them as mistakes. He said he know how many ways not to make a light bulb, LOL. Gotta love a man who learns from his mistakes and shares what not to do to get the job done. Thanks for sharing. Loved the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS Drip pans and a fire extinguisher when using flammable liquids.
Awesome video bro. Well done on all your efforts and thanks for sharing all the info for everyone to learn. Super noble of you. Not sure if this will work but if you can get a hold of some naoh (sodium hydroxide) or koh (potassium hydroxide) and mix it with ethanol to wash the oil before you redistill it, might clear some of the rubbish out and make it clearer. my suggestion,measure 150ml of either chemical, add 98% ethanol or methanol to it to bring the volume up to 400ml. Mix to dissolve completely, add 100ml of this mixture to oil 500ml of this oil, wash for 30min non stop, then let it settle for 10 hours to let everything drain to the bottom and filter off. Then see if that cleans the oil more before you distill it. Works like a charm with my motor oil I distill to clean it.
@@naturejab awesome bro hope it helps. Please do a video to show if it does work. Will be great to see. Also, once you've washed it and let it settle and drained it of the stuff that settles to the bottom, go ahead and re-distill it and it should be cleaner that when it went in. Just build the temp up slow in your recent vid. That helps tremendously as I'm sure you know cos then you don't burn the fuel.
Here's my advice. Go get a hotplate with a digital readout ,theres some for making candy that are pretty accurate. Make your worm a vertical spiral where there are no hills for distillates to dam against. Go to an all stainless rig so it doesn't react, including pot, I would use a pressure cooker.shorten the distance from your pot to your condenser and insulate anything that's exposed, youre trying to shock the vapor into condensing .Add ice and salt .Find out what compounds are in your crude and make a temperature bracket for them all. Work your way up through the temperature gradient so you only get one compound distilling at a time till you're at the one you want. Go slow and steady.youre looking for steady drips and maybe a small drizzle. Guaranteed it'll be clear amber if you do this.
I worked on a scrap tire recycler that cooked rubber scraps. We started it with propane and then ran it with the non condensing gas we made from the rubber. It supplied burner gas and we had a 25kW generator for electrical power. We also had a machine that did what you're doing. Our main business was main waste oil heaters. Note: If you do what we did, your pyro oil will be a smooth blend from heavy oil to light gasoline. Be careful! It looks like you earned your Boy Scout Fire Extinguisher merit badge already. Great job!
you have to study about distillation before trying to make a still. because your still is tilted it is mixing the fractions inside the coil. a very basic mistake. you have a lot of enthusiasm, put a little in studying about the beginning of things first. you chose the worst kind of still there was to reproduce.
I would try pulling a vacuum on the oil. And use a slow heat and seal the vessel, let it build some pressure, then open to the condenser. Vacuum dry it if possible. But I'd build a centrifuge to separate all heavy from light possibly a running centrifuge, a bowl with a lid with a large hole in the center. Spinning around 1000-2k rpm . Mounted inside a bucket to catch the oil. Slung out that comes out the hole in the top. With the oil being slowly added to the center a fast drip or slow steady stream. The bucket having a hole to drain, with a center hole for the shaft. with a lip to prevent oil from leaking out. A 1/4-1/2 HP motor should work , with a 4" deep 8"-9" pie pan possibly, or fabricate it from 6"-8" or 10" pipe and flat plate. With the lid possibly being a 1/8" thick steel ring 1"-2" thick , (a 8" outer diameter with a 6.5" inner hole , leaving 1.5" thick area. Weld the lid on. As well as the base with a means to center mount it on the motor. balance it so it doesn't vibrate. The oil inside will self balance. It can be mounted on shaft with the oil added beside the shaft with a bearing on the top and bottom. With a belt driving to get the proper speed. 1000 rpm may be too slow or 500 rpm could be plenty fast to get separation. If a machine shop were fabricating this, or someone with plenty of equipment. I'd use a 1.5" shaft. And drill the top part to below the lid/ring a 1"to1-1/16" should be plenty strong then drill through the shaft at the bottom of the hole. With a 3/16"-1/4" drill 3/8" or smaller. To allow the oil to be added through the center of the hole. A funnel mounted above allowing the crude oil to be easily added to the shaft. And the shaft running through the container. Will make balancing much easier. A automotive machine shop with crank balancing equipment should be able to balance it to 0.5 grams or less. I'd run a 3" pulley on the shaft ,and a 1.5-2" shaft on the motor, depending on rpm. Maybe invert the sizes for a slow motor. Or a 4" on the shaft for a faster one. Also the speed must be tested with the device full of oil 1.5" is a approximate max, and 1/2"-3/4" is near minimum. It will hold some oil. And the container can be tapered like a drinking glass. Say, example: 7" bottom and 8" top, with a height of 4"(1"-6" tall). With a thickness of 1/8" to 1/4" roughly. With the bottom plate the same thickness. If the shaft is drilled to allow the oil to be added. Then 3-5 1/8" -1/4" spokes can be welded to the top to brace the shaft. And a tack weld to balance if required. I'd spin it up. And only balance if it vibrates. Also a drain plug can be added. Either through the bottom shaft, or through a 3/8 bolt hole threaded into the bottom of the container. Hope this gave Some ideas, helped in some way, I know this is a old video. I'm thinking about doing the same basic thing. Producing fuel. Maybe the more volatile fuel can be reduced by using a valve (with a safety blow off / relief valve ) to pull a slight vacuum on the material to be ran. Seal under low pressure, apply heat until pressure is built try 2bar, then 4bar, I wouldn't attempt over 7-8 bar, unless the system is rated for pressure. Running at 100 bar(est. 145 psi plus would likely show best results 'better') or distilled plastic ran at minimal temperature to reduce diesel , also the high temperature under pressure could crack the molecule so much. That It produces much more gases or possibly more gasses than wanted. If gas and diesel is the goal. I am wanting to produce fuel to run a generator.to charge batteries for my off-grid house. Possibly 6 hours every other day .I really want to get a 10-15 HP diesel engine. I wouldn't mind building it from scratch if possible, cast the parts machine them . Use common parts like bearings and injectors, I'd build a 2cyl. Boxer to keep the Balance . With a 4.250" bore with a 6" stroke. Both pistons down at the same time. Use used engine oil and propane to build a furnace. To make the micro foundry possible, use brake rotors and cast aluminum engine parts to cast new parts from the aluminum and iron. Use lost foam casting. To make the parts . A leaf blower and used oil ignited by propane should be plenty hot to melt iron. Maybe split some water to add some o2 to the oil to geta extremely hot furnace , just gotta watch the crucible, it could melt as well!😮. Sorry to ramble, have an awesome day 🎉
First of all thanks for the footage and the hysterics you had me in😂 Next, to solve the water leakage purchase some rubber grommets, they are cheaper than the water bill. Now, as for the chamber and leaks, I would suggest a longer chamber so there's less heat reaching the top then seal it with exhaust manifold putty or RTV silicone.
you need a bulkhead fitting for the bucket to stop the leaks. better you use a metal barrel and run your copper pipe thru that, you can easier weld fittings. or even better grab a big length like 8 feet of 2 inch GI tubing for your condensor, weld some flat bar stock on it as your radiator fins. Also a bootlegger trick... the copper will react with sulphur, that is one reason why they use copper in stills... but caveat, the copper reacts with acid, so mixed thing.... so pussibly just a bunch of copper wire in the tubing as your catalyst/scrubber. Also I reccommend getting one of those laser thermometers. makes it easy to check the temps thru your system. Reactor vessel, a good flange, and propane tank is good. If money is issue with that ceramic wool, you can use perlite from the garden store, or even just some dirt as the insulation. I used dirt in my rocket stove insulation jacket with decent results. Last but not least. WEAR SOME SHOES and get yoruself some better fire protection. soapy water, bucket of sand, fire extinguisher... and get some nomex coveralls... you can get the military surplus tanker coveralls cheap...
Use stainless steel or at least copper pipes as galvanized steel will react with acetic acid that is present in the "pyrolysis oil ", that way you'll get a much more consistent product.
Your oil output is the same as your input because your heating temp is to high and your cooling temp not low enought... Also you are not enable to maintain a constant temp. However! Nice job! Thank you for your enthusiasm
My thoughts exactly. When distilling anything a smooth constant temp is completely necessary.if you want to rid your batch of contaminates you need to figure out what temp all of the compounds evaporate at and specifically target them based on temp.
One thing you might do to remove water is to evaporate it out. To do that, you could have a metal plate with guides on it that you heat from below. Then, you poor the oil over it and as the oil runs from one side to the other, it gets hotter and the water will evaporate off. I don't know about how you could do something like that but, it's just a suggestion.
You need the water in the condensing bucket on a constant flow. An inflow and outflow so the water is constantly cool and condense well because that worm will heat that 5gal of water quick
Making and refining py oil is fun but be careful if you get that on your skin or breathe it in its highly carcinogenic. Compounds in the oil like toluene can cause metabolic acidosis and the aromatic fumes can cause chronic bronchitis. I suggest you wear a p100 and thick kitchen gloves (latex gloves may allow some organic volatiles to pass through) when doing these experiments. Good luck with your py oil
On how water can "get in" to the condensate. Even after removing gaseous oxygen, if you have celulose there's significant amount of oxygen atoms in the molecules that make up celulose. Some may make CO2 and CO, while some makes H20 from the hydrocarbons.
Maximum respect for showing all your trials and mistakes. Most people would hide this very important process toward refining the design. You definitely need some sort of big metal tray for the whole setup though, in case of spillage.
Really good stuff you present. I am loving your journey in this. Please don't stop. Every step. Mistake. Triumph. Modification. Is so interesting. I can't commend you enough on documenting this. Really. Your presentation is on a level that gives understanding to each exercise. I'm really enjoying this. Thank you.
Should start at heating and holding at 100*c(dependent on what temp water boil where your at) to boil off the water first then ramp temp up to operating temp
@@naturejab add it as a concentrated salt water solution in the separatory funnel. The salt water will "suck" water from the oil in order to lower its concentration (osmosis). Shake the separatory funnel to mix it several times, but let it vent any built up pressure by holding it upside down and open the cock. Let it sit for a while to separate and then drain off the water.
Damn man you scaring me over here with them open flames and whatnot! Would it be possible to repurpouse a ol pressure cooker and a electric plate prehaps? And another shot in the dark (dunno if it would work at all) maybe pour some contaminated oil in a plastic jar and freeze it? (thinking oil is on top of water and then you can pour the oil out with a block of ice in the bottom?) I dont know the first thing about destilling oils and such but been watching those "moonshiners" here on utube alott, maybe they can provide some tasty tips? Stay safe and keep on rocking!
Yeah, dont wanna sound smartass cause it didnt happen to me, but he has been thinking of the oil first, and not his own safety. It's a huge mistake to approach dangerous equipment with a routine. Routine is one of the most common causes for life threatening situations. Next time, Julian, screw the equipment or the yields, save yourself first. Even hang those rules on a wall to remind self, cause this shit aint playing.
Please get oil-resistant boots and apparel. You’re brilliant but hasty (aah, youth!). Safety is important. A mind like yours needs protecting. I’m gladly subscribing to your channel.
Interesting video. I suspect every chemist has had some accidental F-I-R-E in the hood. Have you considered using a strong saline solution to dry your oil? I don't know if it's the right thing to do in this situation but sometimes that's done to dry reagents. I've always seen it done in the separatory funnel. Mix several times, allow to settle, then drain the water out.
Nice work again dude! It looks like you had a boilover there which is pretty scary stuff with oil but at least you know how to deal with it now. Your oil is looking pretty good. A few tweaks and maybe a bit of neutralisation and you’ll be there 👍
Hello, Your work is great! I'm planning on distilling pyrolisis oil in the Czech Republic. I have many questions and ideas: Is it possible to use a pressure cooker and capture the gases coming out of the pressure valve? Out of the box, which system of the reactor chamber would You think works best..? I'm thinking a somewhat converted gas bottle so that You may open it and put stuff inside, or a water boiler. why is the piping so long? Thank You. Karel
I was wondering if you might think about cracking the oils to smaller chains. I was thinking of letting the pressure push the evaporated oiles though a heated segment if pipe withbsand in it. The silicone dioxide lowers the temperature to crack the oil vapors.
you need to know the different boilingpoints on the different liquids. wather 100 degrese c . sprit 78 or 79 c . diesel, C12H24 150-375 c. crudeoil 300 c for som things in the oil but most of the oil boils hotter
Ok first off the oil contains poly cyclic hydrocarbons. Think cancer causing. Two. Your filter medium needs time. Charcoal works great for this. Three look up 3.5 angstrom porous molecular sieve 3a it absorbs water and can be dryed out many times. Be safe
I don’t know much about this at all, so feel free to ignore, but the speed at which the oil is coming out, could there be some syphon action going on ? Is your intake above the outlet ? 🤷🏻♂️
I'm highly recommending you to get one of those prepared hero fire blankets that fire fighters use bro. For real that way you don't burn.,or blow yourself up in the process.
But can you sell the end product. I run an ethanol production plant and I can tell you the cost to clean your fuel enough to make it ready for market is higher than what you will be able to sell it for
Oil coming over but the condensing temperature is only 100C... what's wrong with this picture - lol. My guess: there's so much water in the feedstock that it's boiling off vigorously and "steam distilling" the oil. Or IOW the water vapor is "dragging" particles of oil with it all the way through the system. I'm not actually sure how to fix this - maybe start with putting some packing in the column ?
{ENERGY EXPLORATION & EXPLOITATION · Volume 26 · Number 3 · 2008 pp. 197-208 197 Diesel-like Fuel Obtained by Catalytic Pyrolysis of Waste Engine Oil} might be a good read for you.
Wow. I see several mistakes that youve made. Your vertical distillation pipe is too narrow. The purpose of a wide column is to let the heavy vapors call back to the bottom and the light vapors rise. A narrow pipe makes a pump and all vapors get pushed out. Your coolong coil should be on a constant decline. The way you have it you are creating traps which will decrease the flow and increase temps. Watch some moonshine tubes and get some hints.
I'm glad you destroyed that thing in the end with your nonsense and non ability to pay attention to what you're doing and doing your due diligence you need to really learn a whole lot more before you continue this project
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mV5bGIswTtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
There is no doubt that the oil you produced is flammable! I really like seeing the whole process mistakes and all. So informative.
Looking at your setup I can see a possible reason for the oil coming out literally the same way it went in first lower temperatures heating it slow is definitely the way to go but more than that the pipe that come straight up off of your reaction vessel if you stuff that with stainless steel wool it will act to give you a fractioning column and only let the lighter fractions i.e. gasoline and diesel come over while refluxing the heavier hydrocarbons until they turn into lighter hydrocarbons via cracking. Also when you build the new one try using a 2 inch pipe coming off the top for at least 3 feet where are you put the steel wall inside that will give you more space for fractioning. Hope this helps as always love the videos!
The pipe is stuffed with stainless steel wool, but I do need to make it bigger as you mentioned. I don't have the footage, but if I do a very slow run, I do get better fractionation. Thanks!
What he said
Hello my young Entrepreneuring friend. Great job, you are on your way to making clean useable diesel. I am thankful you include everything in the videos. With fuel prices a 6 bucks a gallon here in California I will soon be following you in the manufacture of diesel like fuel for my trucks. Be safe my young friend. God bless you and your family.
Great video Julian! Thank you for sharing with us all. Let’s hope that more people will adopt this as a way to clean up litter and trash.
Thanks!
Great stuff man! Really love your project, I would love to replicate what you're doing once it's a little more refined. I see this as a huge community booster and great way to actively stay involved in waste management.
Thank you!
This was an informative and hilarious video. It’s so refreshing to see someone driven by discovery
awesome sauce...bonus points for not catching yourself on fire. I would add a collection container. A big one, with a vent pipe that goes up in the air a little bit.
Thanks for the tips!
I love how you show what could happen if you don't plan ahead or know what you're doing. Mistakes are how we learn, I forgot how many tries it took Edison to make the light bulb but he didn't look at them as mistakes. He said he know how many ways not to make a light bulb, LOL. Gotta love a man who learns from his mistakes and shares what not to do to get the job done. Thanks for sharing. Loved the video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya PS Drip pans and a fire extinguisher when using flammable liquids.
Awesome video bro. Well done on all your efforts and thanks for sharing all the info for everyone to learn. Super noble of you. Not sure if this will work but if you can get a hold of some naoh (sodium hydroxide) or koh (potassium hydroxide) and mix it with ethanol to wash the oil before you redistill it, might clear some of the rubbish out and make it clearer. my suggestion,measure 150ml of either chemical, add 98% ethanol or methanol to it to bring the volume up to 400ml. Mix to dissolve completely, add 100ml of this mixture to oil 500ml of this oil, wash for 30min non stop, then let it settle for 10 hours to let everything drain to the bottom and filter off. Then see if that cleans the oil more before you distill it. Works like a charm with my motor oil I distill to clean it.
Great suggestion, thank you. I will try this!
@@naturejab awesome bro hope it helps. Please do a video to show if it does work. Will be great to see. Also, once you've washed it and let it settle and drained it of the stuff that settles to the bottom, go ahead and re-distill it and it should be cleaner that when it went in. Just build the temp up slow in your recent vid. That helps tremendously as I'm sure you know cos then you don't burn the fuel.
Weld cast iron with Muggy Weld cast iron rods. Won’t crack, they’ve got ductile iron Rods too, or just braze with bronze rod
Here's my advice. Go get a hotplate with a digital readout ,theres some for making candy that are pretty accurate. Make your worm a vertical spiral where there are no hills for distillates to dam against. Go to an all stainless rig so it doesn't react, including pot, I would use a pressure cooker.shorten the distance from your pot to your condenser and insulate anything that's exposed, youre trying to shock the vapor into condensing .Add ice and salt .Find out what compounds are in your crude and make a temperature bracket for them all. Work your way up through the temperature gradient so you only get one compound distilling at a time till you're at the one you want. Go slow and steady.youre looking for steady drips and maybe a small drizzle. Guaranteed it'll be clear amber if you do this.
Superb advice, man. You should give this a try, too, to help us all out!
I worked on a scrap tire recycler that cooked rubber scraps. We started it with propane and then ran it with the non condensing gas we made from the rubber. It supplied burner gas and we had a 25kW generator for electrical power.
We also had a machine that did what you're doing. Our main business was main waste oil heaters.
Note: If you do what we did, your pyro oil will be a smooth blend from heavy oil to light gasoline. Be careful!
It looks like you earned your Boy Scout Fire Extinguisher merit badge already. Great job!
Thanks!
That is really informative...👍🙏🙏🙏..., "The Mistakes" are the best " My Needed Information" ...
you have to study about distillation before trying to make a still.
because your still is tilted it is mixing the fractions inside the coil. a very basic mistake.
you have a lot of enthusiasm, put a little in studying about the beginning of things first.
you chose the worst kind of still there was to reproduce.
Great point!
Its called trial and error
I would try pulling a vacuum on the oil. And use a slow heat and seal the vessel, let it build some pressure, then open to the condenser. Vacuum dry it if possible.
But I'd build a centrifuge to separate all heavy from light possibly a running centrifuge, a bowl with a lid with a large hole in the center. Spinning around 1000-2k rpm . Mounted inside a bucket to catch the oil. Slung out that comes out the hole in the top. With the oil being slowly added to the center a fast drip or slow steady stream. The bucket having a hole to drain, with a center hole for the shaft. with a lip to prevent oil from leaking out. A 1/4-1/2 HP motor should work , with a 4" deep 8"-9" pie pan possibly, or fabricate it from 6"-8" or 10" pipe and flat plate. With the lid possibly being a 1/8" thick steel ring 1"-2" thick , (a 8" outer diameter with a 6.5" inner hole , leaving 1.5" thick area. Weld the lid on. As well as the base with a means to center mount it on the motor. balance it so it doesn't vibrate. The oil inside will self balance. It can be mounted on shaft with the oil added beside the shaft with a bearing on the top and bottom. With a belt driving to get the proper speed. 1000 rpm may be too slow or 500 rpm could be plenty fast to get separation. If a machine shop were fabricating this, or someone with plenty of equipment. I'd use a 1.5" shaft. And drill the top part to below the lid/ring a 1"to1-1/16" should be plenty strong then drill through the shaft at the bottom of the hole. With a 3/16"-1/4" drill 3/8" or smaller. To allow the oil to be added through the center of the hole. A funnel mounted above allowing the crude oil to be easily added to the shaft. And the shaft running through the container. Will make balancing much easier. A automotive machine shop with crank balancing equipment should be able to balance it to 0.5 grams or less. I'd run a 3" pulley on the shaft ,and a 1.5-2" shaft on the motor, depending on rpm. Maybe invert the sizes for a slow motor. Or a 4" on the shaft for a faster one. Also the speed must be tested with the device full of oil 1.5" is a approximate max, and 1/2"-3/4" is near minimum. It will hold some oil. And the container can be tapered like a drinking glass. Say, example: 7" bottom and 8" top, with a height of 4"(1"-6" tall). With a thickness of 1/8" to 1/4" roughly. With the bottom plate the same thickness. If the shaft is drilled to allow the oil to be added. Then 3-5 1/8" -1/4" spokes can be welded to the top to brace the shaft. And a tack weld to balance if required. I'd spin it up. And only balance if it vibrates. Also a drain plug can be added. Either through the bottom shaft, or through a 3/8 bolt hole threaded into the bottom of the container. Hope this gave Some ideas, helped in some way, I know this is a old video. I'm thinking about doing the same basic thing. Producing fuel. Maybe the more volatile fuel can be reduced by using a valve (with a safety blow off / relief valve ) to pull a slight vacuum on the material to be ran. Seal under low pressure, apply heat until pressure is built try 2bar, then 4bar, I wouldn't attempt over 7-8 bar, unless the system is rated for pressure. Running at 100 bar(est. 145 psi plus would likely show best results 'better') or distilled plastic ran at minimal temperature to reduce diesel , also the high temperature under pressure could crack the molecule so much. That It produces much more gases or possibly more gasses than wanted. If gas and diesel is the goal. I am wanting to produce fuel to run a generator.to charge batteries for my off-grid house. Possibly 6 hours every other day .I really want to get a 10-15 HP diesel engine. I wouldn't mind building it from scratch if possible, cast the parts machine them . Use common parts like bearings and injectors, I'd build a 2cyl. Boxer to keep the Balance . With a 4.250" bore with a 6" stroke. Both pistons down at the same time. Use used engine oil and propane to build a furnace. To make the micro foundry possible, use brake rotors and cast aluminum engine parts to cast new parts from the aluminum and iron. Use lost foam casting. To make the parts . A leaf blower and used oil ignited by propane should be plenty hot to melt iron. Maybe split some water to add some o2 to the oil to geta extremely hot furnace , just gotta watch the crucible, it could melt as well!😮. Sorry to ramble, have an awesome day 🎉
First of all thanks for the footage and the hysterics you had me in😂
Next, to solve the water leakage purchase some rubber grommets, they are cheaper than the water bill.
Now, as for the chamber and leaks, I would suggest a longer chamber so there's less heat reaching the top then seal it with exhaust manifold putty or RTV silicone.
I fuken lost it when everything caught on fire 😂 thank you for sharing this with us. I learned more than I thought I needed to know
When you want to weld cast iron, you have to heat it up to nearly white hot before making the welds
Thank you for being a newbie and vulnerable
you need a bulkhead fitting for the bucket to stop the leaks. better you use a metal barrel and run your copper pipe thru that, you can easier weld fittings. or even better grab a big length like 8 feet of 2 inch GI tubing for your condensor, weld some flat bar stock on it as your radiator fins. Also a bootlegger trick... the copper will react with sulphur, that is one reason why they use copper in stills... but caveat, the copper reacts with acid, so mixed thing.... so pussibly just a bunch of copper wire in the tubing as your catalyst/scrubber. Also I reccommend getting one of those laser thermometers. makes it easy to check the temps thru your system. Reactor vessel, a good flange, and propane tank is good. If money is issue with that ceramic wool, you can use perlite from the garden store, or even just some dirt as the insulation. I used dirt in my rocket stove insulation jacket with decent results. Last but not least. WEAR SOME SHOES and get yoruself some better fire protection. soapy water, bucket of sand, fire extinguisher... and get some nomex coveralls... you can get the military surplus tanker coveralls cheap...
Thanks for all this great advice, mate!
I do currently have copper scrubbies as a catalytic packing.
Use stainless steel or at least copper pipes as galvanized steel will react with acetic acid that is present in the "pyrolysis oil ", that way you'll get a much more consistent product.
Interesting point there, thank you
Your oil output is the same as your input because your heating temp is to high and your cooling temp not low enought... Also you are not enable to maintain a constant temp.
However! Nice job! Thank you for your enthusiasm
My thoughts exactly. When distilling anything a smooth constant temp is completely necessary.if you want to rid your batch of contaminates you need to figure out what temp all of the compounds evaporate at and specifically target them based on temp.
I'm enjoy your journey Sir....your mistake made me learn so much.. thank you
One thing you might do to remove water is to evaporate it out. To do that, you could have a metal plate with guides on it that you heat from below. Then, you poor the oil over it and as the oil runs from one side to the other, it gets hotter and the water will evaporate off. I don't know about how you could do something like that but, it's just a suggestion.
I've burnt my face lighting a grill... mistakes do happen. It was a painful one
Rudimentary setup.. i love it.. I'm tired of Niles Perfect glassware 🤣🤣
I'll subscribe 👍👍
Ps Your parents are either gonna kill you or support this madness ... good luck 🤣🤣
🤣
You need the water in the condensing bucket on a constant flow. An inflow and outflow so the water is constantly cool and condense well because that worm will heat that 5gal of water quick
Holy shit buddy, this is hilarious and awesome!
I'm a racist, and I still subscribed.
Bruh what
@@prodbycurien In the butt?
Baller af ngl
Same
Sheeeeeiiiitttt
Making and refining py oil is fun but be careful if you get that on your skin or breathe it in its highly carcinogenic. Compounds in the oil like toluene can cause metabolic acidosis and the aromatic fumes can cause chronic bronchitis. I suggest you wear a p100 and thick kitchen gloves (latex gloves may allow some organic volatiles to pass through) when doing these experiments. Good luck with your py oil
On how water can "get in" to the condensate. Even after removing gaseous oxygen, if you have celulose there's significant amount of oxygen atoms in the molecules that make up celulose. Some may make CO2 and CO, while some makes H20 from the hydrocarbons.
Maximum respect for showing all your trials and mistakes. Most people would hide this very important process toward refining the design.
You definitely need some sort of big metal tray for the whole setup though, in case of spillage.
Really good stuff you present.
I am loving your journey in this.
Please don't stop.
Every step.
Mistake.
Triumph.
Modification.
Is so interesting.
I can't commend you enough on documenting this.
Really.
Your presentation is on a level that gives understanding to each exercise.
I'm really enjoying this.
Thank you.
Thank you!!!
Should start at heating and holding at 100*c(dependent on what temp water boil where your at) to boil off the water first then ramp temp up to operating temp
if u are extracting fuel ,use it instead of the propane tank to generate heat .
If you add a large amount of salt to the pyrolysis oil there is a good chance that you can more easily seperate the water and oil
Very clever idea, thanks!
@@naturejab add it as a concentrated salt water solution in the separatory funnel. The salt water will "suck" water from the oil in order to lower its concentration (osmosis). Shake the separatory funnel to mix it several times, but let it vent any built up pressure by holding it upside down and open the cock. Let it sit for a while to separate and then drain off the water.
Hello….Do you you mean adding the salt then refining or adding the salt to the refined product?
@@sayarocka Adding salt then refining, it makes the water more dense which makes it easier to seperate from the lighter oil
Damn man you scaring me over here with them open flames and whatnot! Would it be possible to repurpouse a ol pressure cooker and a electric plate prehaps? And another shot in the dark (dunno if it would work at all) maybe pour some contaminated oil in a plastic jar and freeze it? (thinking oil is on top of water and then you can pour the oil out with a block of ice in the bottom?)
I dont know the first thing about destilling oils and such but been watching those "moonshiners" here on utube alott, maybe they can provide some tasty tips? Stay safe and keep on rocking!
Yeah, dont wanna sound smartass cause it didnt happen to me, but he has been thinking of the oil first, and not his own safety. It's a huge mistake to approach dangerous equipment with a routine. Routine is one of the most common causes for life threatening situations.
Next time, Julian, screw the equipment or the yields, save yourself first.
Even hang those rules on a wall to remind self, cause this shit aint playing.
I'll definitely be safer. Freezing isn't a bad idea either. Thanks!
Please get oil-resistant boots and apparel. You’re brilliant but hasty (aah, youth!). Safety is important. A mind like yours needs protecting. I’m gladly subscribing to your channel.
Interesting video. I suspect every chemist has had some accidental F-I-R-E in the hood. Have you considered using a strong saline solution to dry your oil? I don't know if it's the right thing to do in this situation but sometimes that's done to dry reagents. I've always seen it done in the separatory funnel. Mix several times, allow to settle, then drain the water out.
Nice work again dude! It looks like you had a boilover there which is pretty scary stuff with oil but at least you know how to deal with it now.
Your oil is looking pretty good. A few tweaks and maybe a bit of neutralisation and you’ll be there 👍
Thank you!
Hello, Your work is great!
I'm planning on distilling pyrolisis oil in the Czech Republic.
I have many questions and ideas:
Is it possible to use a pressure cooker and capture the gases coming out of the pressure valve?
Out of the box, which system of the reactor chamber would You think works best..?
I'm thinking a somewhat converted gas bottle so that You may open it and put stuff inside, or a water boiler.
why is the piping so long?
Thank You. Karel
I admire you and I wanna help you in any kind of way ❤
Hey, just a heads up you may not want to use galvanized pipe because zinc dissolves in the acidic oil/fuel
you should try a oil centrifuge.
Great idea! Just don't have one :(
I was wondering if you might think about cracking the oils to smaller chains. I was thinking of letting the pressure push the evaporated oiles though a heated segment if pipe withbsand in it. The silicone dioxide lowers the temperature to crack the oil vapors.
you need to know the different boilingpoints on the different liquids. wather 100 degrese c . sprit 78 or 79 c . diesel, C12H24 150-375 c. crudeoil 300 c for som things in the oil but most of the oil boils hotter
keep it up!!!
The guy making these videos is so damn likable. I think that it’s awesome how he shows us the good, the bad, and the ugly of his experiments.
Nice work...To address the leaking plastic bucket pour some baking soda and some super glue.
Ok first off the oil contains poly cyclic hydrocarbons. Think cancer causing.
Two. Your filter medium needs time.
Charcoal works great for this.
Three look up 3.5 angstrom porous
molecular sieve 3a it absorbs water and can be dryed out many times.
Be safe
Thank you James. Very helpful.
Thanks!
@@estesfamily6761 no problem it's what I do
You should be able to clinically treat that maybe in acid-base reduction or maybe even just a base reduction to precipitate insolubles to the bottom
I don’t know much about this at all, so feel free to ignore, but the speed at which the oil is coming out, could there be some syphon action going on ? Is your intake above the outlet ? 🤷🏻♂️
Are you working on the fitcher troops reaction?
Currently not
I'm highly recommending you to get one of those prepared hero fire blankets that fire fighters use bro. For real that way you don't burn.,or blow yourself up in the process.
Buy yourself a cheap lab glass distillation set off temu. They're cheap as and you'll get waaaay better results plus you can see what's happening
Nice one what catalyst do you use?
Activated Carbon, Lime
Flammable vapors need to be properly condensed with colder water use ice
JB weld will seal the leak you also need a flame arrester.
But can you sell the end product. I run an ethanol production plant and I can tell you the cost to clean your fuel enough to make it ready for market is higher than what you will be able to sell it for
Use a metal bucket and 1/4 inch copper and about 50 feet of it!!
Am I watching the same thing everyone is commenting about? Where is the GOOD JOB
where did you got this reactor..?
I built it!
At how much psi can we store syn gas?
I have not gone above 120 PSI, as my compressor isn't that strong, but in theory there is no limit/.
Oil coming over but the condensing temperature is only 100C... what's wrong with this picture - lol. My guess: there's so much water in the feedstock that it's boiling off vigorously and "steam distilling" the oil. Or IOW the water vapor is "dragging" particles of oil with it all the way through the system. I'm not actually sure how to fix this - maybe start with putting some packing in the column ?
You never want the coil to run so liquid will pool inside.
Lol , you are a funny scientist 😆🤣🤪
{ENERGY EXPLORATION & EXPLOITATION · Volume 26 · Number 3 · 2008 pp. 197-208 197
Diesel-like Fuel Obtained by Catalytic Pyrolysis of Waste
Engine Oil} might be a good read for you.
One of these times when you light it it's going to blow the whole thing up
The constant streams are because your condensing coil was running vertical spiral.
HI, can i buy 500 ml for Testing purposes?
What about wax formation
Smart kid. Future chemist and millionaire.
Try freezing the water and screening out the ice.
👍👍👍👍
Try Maybe distillate water
Chemically treat
Shoes my man.....shoes.
Ayo they killed the last guy who did this
🥲
@@naturejab praying for you brother. We need an alternative fuel right know
A lot of mistakes in this video could be easely avoid ...
Wow. I see several mistakes that youve made. Your vertical distillation pipe is too narrow. The purpose of a wide column is to let the heavy vapors call back to the bottom and the light vapors rise. A narrow pipe makes a pump and all vapors get pushed out.
Your coolong coil should be on a constant decline. The way you have it you are creating traps which will decrease the flow and increase temps. Watch some moonshine tubes and get some hints.
use a gasket
I mean, I like the video, but holy crap you need a lesson in precaution!
Exxon Valdez up in herrr…
madre mía tienes mas peligro que una caja de bombas 😂💀☠☠☠☠
You have to use the oil you make to run the process or else your spending fuel to make fuel!!!
The police might kill you in your own backyard if they see you doing this
centrifuge
*Have some sense*
😮🙄🚒🚑
I'm glad you destroyed that thing in the end with your nonsense and non ability to pay attention to what you're doing and doing your due diligence you need to really learn a whole lot more before you continue this project
😂😂😂
Try using a bulkhead fitting on the bucket to stop the leaking water.