Dude. Outstanding. Low and slow is the way forward. From first hand experience you do not want to crank it straight away, it takes me about an hour at least to get to operating temperature. Some observations: - that dark crud is overboil. It’s exactly the same stuff I get if I turn the temperature up too quickly. - the end product looks exactly like my stuff, probably slightly lighter, and burns the same. Impressive. - oil does not boil the same as water, you get a nice rolling boil with water. Oil tends to erupt violently at a certain temp. The reflux temp will swing wildly because you get the distillate in gubs and drips rather than a steady stream sometimes. I have to sit down and watch my temperature like a hawk at a couple of critical points to avoid boilover. You kind of get a feel for it, I can tell by looking and listening when the burner needs to go on and off. - check your product for acidity. Mine is mildly acidic which you can sort out with a lye wash if you need to
Hey man I am still following your progress ^^ and enjoying it a lot! so here are a couple of tips from me. First insulate the hole system with stone wool and crank up the heating on your distillation setup. The general idea behind fractionally distilling things like you are doing here is that they separate (very simply sad) by them self. All you need to do is insulate the setup to keep in the heat and have enough surface area in your column (for the vapor to condensate and re-boil again. So, with the low heating you are not using your separation capacity of your column right. You have to heat way higher and let the thermodynamics in the column do the rest ;D There is a point called flooding where the separation capacity of your column is overshot but this isn't nowhere near where you are operating. You should also note the boiling points of your fractions and analyze the flashpoints separately. Afterwards you blend the fractions to create a fuel that is in the range of what you need; for an example diesel or gasoline. If you have any more questions on the refining part of the oil, feel free to ask me. I think I should even manage to do a short ZOOM session with explanations and some more useful information. I know this is very old but its just pure gold! ruclips.net/video/KVQUZGmIIf0/видео.html it explains everything about distillation of petrochemicals Mfg hazelChem
I've just started messing with plastic pyrolosis, but I've messed woodgas (wood pyrolosis), one thing that works well is using straw as a filter media, then when it gets all full of tars, you cab just run it through the pyrolosis chamber. I wonder if you could use packed shredded plastic the same way as a primary filter, then run it through the chamber when it gets used up? Great channel, keep it up. I just picked up a free 20hp diesel motor, to experiment with running a diesel on the oilier products.
Hi, I always love your videos, I have noticed a few things from my experimental experience. 1.) i heat the crude very slowly, I use a thick metal (8mm) for the still to compensate for temperature fluctuations I have insulated it with rock wool, 2. I don't understand why the stills are so high, my distiler has vapor outlet pipe only 30 cm vertically, the rest is horizontal, Suprisingly i get clean fuel, I think you should try to destilate other fractions too, then maybe remove leftover tar and sludge, and redestilate fuels.
The height of the still is to enable reflux distillation at a high power input. The more power you input, the less temperature drop from the bottom to the top of the still. You can make shorter stills by paralleling the columns, and going from the top of one into the bottom of the next.
@@theunisdeklerk1232 I made the distiller in a simple way, without complicated calculations, so the efficiency of the distiller is also quite low, i think adding a vacuum would improve efficiency but for inspiration I would recommend watching this video ruclips.net/video/6sYKFSBknl8/видео.html
Quite a nice setup you have here but as a chemist i can advise you too look for leak (expecialy before the condenser) you can use flour and water to plug them it will cook and stay for some time and likely not disolve from the hot organic vapor Switch the water in the condenser, it should come from the bottom and leave from the top to have all the volume filled by water. If the condenced liquid is still warm than you are loosing some of it as vapor, increase the flow of water, increase the length of your condenser or use colder water. The temperature fluctuation is ok for me but as the other say crank up the heat and insulate your column. it's also normal to have a jump in temperature as the front of vapor contact your termometer If you have a lot of out boiling in the colomn, you can add pumice or similar porous stone to help control that. To help with the separation of water you can try adding salt to help break the emulsion. You can also wash your crude with water to get rid off everything micible in water prior to distilation. Check the pH, as pyrolysis of wood produce a lot of acetic acid but i can also happen with oxygenated plastic (like PET)
Jump the heat to minimum 356 celsius then it wil be diesel fuel Just stick it in a bucket of water after one hour it wil be diesel fuel If you want to make jet fuel you need to crank the heat UP to 410 celsius And mix 20% diesel fuel then you got jetfuel my friend :) much love from norway ❤️
Amazing work! Keep it up this is so cool. You mentioned ethanol a few times, have you considered doing some experiments to see if you can get ethanol from your syngas? Either through a catalyst or fermentation of the syngas? I have absolutely no idea how viable it would be in a backyard scenario but there really aren’t any good resources on the subject on RUclips and it’s something I think would be fascinating.
Methanol can be created thru the syngas, but it requires high pressure and hydrogen I believe. So it's cool, but not my priority right now for good reasons haha.
Ethanol is from fermentation of sugary stuff such as converted cornstarch. I think the chemistry of getting it from plastic syngas or other syngasses would be fairly complicated chemistry.
You are doing such a great job , keep experimenting, keep going , this will only get better ! I plan on making a small plant myself,I’m a fabricator from Canada LET ME KNOW if you want to work on a distillation stack together
You can treat the raw product with a saturated sodium chloride solution and wait for it to settle. Remember to shake, vent, shake, vent, shake, vent. Wait 2x longer than you think you need to. Then Slowly drain it. Also slow your process down to the point that you can fractionally distill it.
Is it possible that you had some foaming or frothing going on in the system? If you have not washed out your packing the previous runs might have splashed or foamed up to the packing and thus your product might be less clean than it could be. The initial output being so dark and awful is strange, maybe you need to wash the insides of your column and liebig with gasoline or something to get rid of some residues from previous runs. Also you probably want to thermally insulate that column a little bit with some removable insulation sections, like fiberglass stuck to some sticky aluminium tape. The point is that instead of turning up the heating at the bottom you could just gradually insulate more and more of the total height of your column until you get product coming over. Your bottom chamber is also not the most ideal shape, it is better to have something wider, but shorter, especially if you heat the bottom instead of the sides. If you did not have as much splashing and violent boiling you might be able to get some almost clear products.
Good work. Keep it up. You are Rockin' it man! I'm looking to build my own reactor. I have 2 old boilers I'm considering using, as soon as I get opportunity to inspect them to see if they will work or not. They were operating just last year , so I'm hopeful.
the lower the oktane the faster it burns or the faster it is gone. high oktane burns longer befor it is gone. 1 liter vays about 660 grams thats why it floats. you need a tower with diferent outlets to make good separation
If you need to cheat the Octane value up on your solution to get it to burn more like regular commercially produced gasoline look into how carbonating water to make soda water works and use the same process to defuse propane into what you have made. It's a bit of a cheat but if done right it should be able to run most gasoline engines just fine.
How about you make a video of wine brewing machine as a pyrolysis oil from plastic?because none of them aren't making this content yet on RUclips, it is a myth currently Self assembled with well organized structure is much better than DIY built up, DIY built up may hard to deal with with it
@@MrGamer_jinjit_96 well... there are a lot of unseen specifics that make pyrolysis - in particularly microwave pyrolysis work way better, and a wine brewing machine would not be able to meet these requirements. DIY for now is my best option, and I'm currently in construction of my next microwave reactor
@@naturejab everything has its own reason to designed for that purposed......because some other items can be repurposed in order to make a same machine
I would not do it. Those are expensive copper and stainless rigs, and it would be pretty much ruined afterwards for any use as a brewing machine (not that I care, I'm a teetoaller). They might not handle the heat very well either. Cheap steel pipe is the best for these projects, in my opinion.
It looks like the reactions you seek do not occur until at least 300 degrees C (300-900C) are reached. I disagree with the comment on low and slow as if you are heating it sub 300 degrees you will never achieve the reactions which is only wasted energy. I would try finding a way to monitor your reactor temp and then trying runs at different temperatures and comparing the results. Otherwise nice work dude
@@naturejab I distill waste motor oil you need to be able to use electric heat or some kind of heat that doesn't cost anything I can get a 5 gallon bucket full an hour or two costing about $0.10 a gallon it runs an engine perfectly fine yes the oil stinks yes the oil goes into redox and is difficult to work with I would like to do vacuum distillation waste motor oil specifically or transmission fluid or hydraulic oil whatever is free
Have you ever heard of a lava lamp? So what's happening is when you have a endothermic reaction like oxygen and hydrogen reacting with each other, you'll get a pocket of thermal interaction that creates heat pockets of concentrated heat. The concentrated heat rises gets to the top cools off then falls down that's the fluctuation and temperature.
Can't wait to see the engine test!
Dude. Outstanding. Low and slow is the way forward. From first hand experience you do not want to crank it straight away, it takes me about an hour at least to get to operating temperature. Some observations:
- that dark crud is overboil. It’s exactly the same stuff I get if I turn the temperature up too quickly.
- the end product looks exactly like my stuff, probably slightly lighter, and burns the same. Impressive.
- oil does not boil the same as water, you get a nice rolling boil with water. Oil tends to erupt violently at a certain temp. The reflux temp will swing wildly because you get the distillate in gubs and drips rather than a steady stream sometimes. I have to sit down and watch my temperature like a hawk at a couple of critical points to avoid boilover. You kind of get a feel for it, I can tell by looking and listening when the burner needs to go on and off.
- check your product for acidity. Mine is mildly acidic which you can sort out with a lye wash if you need to
Thanks for the advice! I'll check for acidity.
never been so pumped for a project, cant wait to keep seeing your progress
Hey man I am still following your progress ^^ and enjoying it a lot!
so here are a couple of tips from me. First insulate the hole system with stone wool and crank up the heating on your distillation setup. The general idea behind fractionally distilling things like you are doing here is that they separate (very simply sad) by them self. All you need to do is insulate the setup to keep in the heat and have enough surface area in your column (for the vapor to condensate and re-boil again.
So, with the low heating you are not using your separation capacity of your column right. You have to heat way higher and let the thermodynamics in the column do the rest ;D
There is a point called flooding where the separation capacity of your column is overshot but this isn't nowhere near where you are operating. You should also note the boiling points of your fractions and analyze the flashpoints separately. Afterwards you blend the fractions to create a fuel that is in the range of what you need; for an example diesel or gasoline. If you have any more questions on the refining part of the oil, feel free to ask me. I think I should even manage to do a short ZOOM session with explanations and some more useful information.
I know this is very old but its just pure gold! ruclips.net/video/KVQUZGmIIf0/видео.html it explains everything about distillation of petrochemicals
Mfg hazelChem
Makes me happy to see a comment from you! All of this is amazing advice and cleared up a lot for me, thanks so much! I'll check out the video as well
Thanks to you, also very interested.
From Alberta Canada
@@naturejab happy to hear that! best of luck to you
mfg hazelChem
I think when you're using a separatory funnel you're supposed to let it sit until more stops separating out, and then drain it.
Im bout to binge watch all your videos fam thank you for sharing
Be careful old paints contain hazardous and carcinogenic ingredients! Also awesome job keep updating I want to learn more about it!
I've just started messing with plastic pyrolosis, but I've messed woodgas (wood pyrolosis), one thing that works well is using straw as a filter media, then when it gets all full of tars, you cab just run it through the pyrolosis chamber. I wonder if you could use packed shredded plastic the same way as a primary filter, then run it through the chamber when it gets used up? Great channel, keep it up. I just picked up a free 20hp diesel motor, to experiment with running a diesel on the oilier products.
woooo backyard engineering
Hi, I always love your videos, I have noticed a few things from my experimental experience.
1.) i heat the crude very slowly, I use a thick metal (8mm) for the still to compensate for temperature fluctuations
I have insulated it with rock wool,
2. I don't understand why the stills are so high, my distiler has vapor outlet pipe only 30 cm vertically, the rest is horizontal,
Suprisingly i get clean fuel, I think you should try to destilate other fractions too, then maybe remove leftover tar and sludge, and redestilate fuels.
The height of the still is to enable reflux distillation at a high power input. The more power you input, the less temperature drop from the bottom to the top of the still. You can make shorter stills by paralleling the columns, and going from the top of one into the bottom of the next.
As dan said, the height is for reflux and also a packed column for vapor - liquid interaction, which is said to aid in separation. Thanks!
Please as I'm making one . Please share your scamattics to get clean fuel
@@theunisdeklerk1232 I made the distiller in a simple way, without complicated calculations, so the efficiency of the distiller is also quite low, i think adding a vacuum would improve efficiency but for inspiration I would recommend watching this video
ruclips.net/video/6sYKFSBknl8/видео.html
@@dansw0rkshop Thanks!
Quite a nice setup you have here but as a chemist i can advise you too look for leak (expecialy before the condenser) you can use flour and water to plug them it will cook and stay for some time and likely not disolve from the hot organic vapor
Switch the water in the condenser, it should come from the bottom and leave from the top to have all the volume filled by water.
If the condenced liquid is still warm than you are loosing some of it as vapor, increase the flow of water, increase the length of your condenser or use colder water.
The temperature fluctuation is ok for me but as the other say crank up the heat and insulate your column. it's also normal to have a jump in temperature as the front of vapor contact your termometer
If you have a lot of out boiling in the colomn, you can add pumice or similar porous stone to help control that.
To help with the separation of water you can try adding salt to help break the emulsion. You can also wash your crude with water to get rid off everything micible in water prior to distilation.
Check the pH, as pyrolysis of wood produce a lot of acetic acid but i can also happen with oxygenated plastic (like PET)
Washing the crude is a great idea, as well as the flour
Thank you for all this great advice! Cheers.
Jump the heat to minimum 356 celsius then it wil be diesel fuel Just stick it in a bucket of water after one hour it wil be diesel fuel
If you want to make jet fuel you need to crank the heat UP to 410 celsius
And mix 20% diesel fuel then you got jetfuel my friend :) much love from norway ❤️
Ayyyy I love to hear it! Cheers mate!
Excellent well done bro. Super happy for you. Keep up the progress.
Amazing work! Keep it up this is so cool. You mentioned ethanol a few times, have you considered doing some experiments to see if you can get ethanol from your syngas? Either through a catalyst or fermentation of the syngas?
I have absolutely no idea how viable it would be in a backyard scenario but there really aren’t any good resources on the subject on RUclips and it’s something I think would be fascinating.
Methanol can be created thru the syngas, but it requires high pressure and hydrogen I believe. So it's cool, but not my priority right now for good reasons haha.
Ethanol is from fermentation of sugary stuff such as converted cornstarch. I think the chemistry of getting it from plastic syngas or other syngasses would be fairly complicated chemistry.
You are doing such a great job , keep experimenting, keep going , this will only get better !
I plan on making a small plant myself,I’m a fabricator from Canada
LET ME KNOW if you want to work on a distillation stack together
Allô allô from Alberta Canada.
This is my idea too.
Love the opportunity
The process,and being prepared.
You can treat the raw product with a saturated sodium chloride solution and wait for it to settle. Remember to shake, vent, shake, vent, shake, vent. Wait 2x longer than you think you need to. Then Slowly drain it. Also slow your process down to the point that you can fractionally distill it.
This is awesome man, love it!
I have NEVER been able to get the coil bucket system to work for making moonshine. I feel your pain.
Is it possible that you had some foaming or frothing going on in the system? If you have not washed out your packing the previous runs might have splashed or foamed up to the packing and thus your product might be less clean than it could be. The initial output being so dark and awful is strange, maybe you need to wash the insides of your column and liebig with gasoline or something to get rid of some residues from previous runs. Also you probably want to thermally insulate that column a little bit with some removable insulation sections, like fiberglass stuck to some sticky aluminium tape. The point is that instead of turning up the heating at the bottom you could just gradually insulate more and more of the total height of your column until you get product coming over. Your bottom chamber is also not the most ideal shape, it is better to have something wider, but shorter, especially if you heat the bottom instead of the sides. If you did not have as much splashing and violent boiling you might be able to get some almost clear products.
Yea I agree with you there, I did not clean out the scrubbers and I assume that's what that intiial stuff was being pushed out. Cheers!
Use unions Union is a type of Plumbing fitting you can weld them on one side they won't leak they have brass in them they can handle the heat
Thanks, I use some unions, I just don't have them welded
Muy interesante! Me gustaría probar algo igual. Puedes hacer un video detallado como has echo reactor? Enhorabuena por tu trabajo!
Good work. Keep it up. You are Rockin' it man! I'm looking to build my own reactor. I have 2 old boilers I'm considering using, as soon as I get opportunity to inspect them to see if they will work or not. They were operating just last year , so I'm hopeful.
Go for it!
Place your collector higher. Trading flush for reflux.
Great video
the lower the oktane the faster it burns or the faster it is gone. high oktane burns longer befor it is gone. 1 liter vays about 660 grams thats why it floats. you need a tower with diferent outlets to make good separation
If you need to cheat the Octane value up on your solution to get it to burn more like regular commercially produced gasoline look into how carbonating water to make soda water works and use the same process to defuse propane into what you have made.
It's a bit of a cheat but if done right it should be able to run most gasoline engines just fine.
Would diffusing propane into methanol make the necessary tri-methyl-pentane directly? After that, you could blend it properly.
Just curious, would you happen to have the capability to test the vapor pressure of the distillate?
I'm not sure, but perhaps with a sensitive pressure gauge
Why not just add induction heater on that big pipe?
I don't have induction
you will likley need to pas it threw lime tower to remove the sulfur
I appreciate the information. Although, the cursing is a distraction from the information.
God bless you
I was like dont drink it. 😂
He drank it 🥴
What about old tires?
Already have done tires!
Golden elixir should be your brand name
New sub.. you had me as slow cook like collard greens!! LMAO YISS
Can wine brewing machine using as a pyrolysis ?try to get one for pyrolysis from plastic to oil
I doubt it gets hot enough, but if it gets 350 C (Atleast 450 F) or more, I'd say yes
How about you make a video of wine brewing machine as a pyrolysis oil from plastic?because none of them aren't making this content yet on RUclips, it is a myth currently
Self assembled with well organized structure is much better than DIY built up, DIY built up may hard to deal with with it
@@MrGamer_jinjit_96 well... there are a lot of unseen specifics that make pyrolysis - in particularly microwave pyrolysis work way better, and a wine brewing machine would not be able to meet these requirements. DIY for now is my best option, and I'm currently in construction of my next microwave reactor
@@naturejab everything has its own reason to designed for that purposed......because some other items can be repurposed in order to make a same machine
I would not do it. Those are expensive copper and stainless rigs, and it would be pretty much ruined afterwards for any use as a brewing machine (not that I care, I'm a teetoaller). They might not handle the heat very well either. Cheap steel pipe is the best for these projects, in my opinion.
one supplier says he can give me vaccum distillation plant to distill pyro oil. is it good or bad?
I don't know, you'd have to ask a chemist
You should get a vacum pump or better run your fridge compressor backward pumpout the atmosphere air out
And you can take it apart with two wrenches
Why didn't you just burn the paint off?
It looks like the reactions you seek do not occur until at least 300 degrees C (300-900C) are reached. I disagree with the comment on low and slow as if you are heating it sub 300 degrees you will never achieve the reactions which is only wasted energy. I would try finding a way to monitor your reactor temp and then trying runs at different temperatures and comparing the results. Otherwise nice work dude
Thank you for your insight!
Best way to clean contaminated water is to evaporate it.
I hope that stuff on the pipe wasn't some kind of asbestos man.
JT Automation
use stainless steel. You will improve your results.
Bonjour pouvez vous m aider ?
Now don’t be making that and calling it backyard gin! That shit’s fuel😂
Use pp plastic #5
Polypropelyn yields more oil?
@@naturejab I distill waste motor oil you need to be able to use electric heat or some kind of heat that doesn't cost anything I can get a 5 gallon bucket full an hour or two costing about $0.10 a gallon it runs an engine perfectly fine yes the oil stinks yes the oil goes into redox and is difficult to work with I would like to do vacuum distillation waste motor oil specifically or transmission fluid or hydraulic oil whatever is free
@@naturejab with such a tall unit with no insulation around the column you're going to get a lot of reflux
@@tonydiesel3444 do you personally make this into. ( diesel or gas )
i think your final product is closer to kerosene
If you was using your common sense you would have used some paint remover on that seriously
Have you ever heard of a lava lamp? So what's happening is when you have a endothermic reaction like oxygen and hydrogen reacting with each other, you'll get a pocket of thermal interaction that creates heat pockets of concentrated heat. The concentrated heat rises gets to the top cools off then falls down that's the fluctuation and temperature.
@mrbeast debunk, fund!