Put well . Every thing that you said. Your right everyone does have different anchor points and one way I test to find is shooting an intentional shorter draw length and slowly work it back to where it needs to be . thanks , you enabled me to think about it .
Super helpful, thanks! I think I’ll need to just do some blind releasing focusing on the mechanics of the draw and release. Don’t have a haybale but I have a hillside.
Very well done explanation. If you shot split finger instead of three under you would be almost identical in the way James Berry (JD Berry)shoots, it is also very very close to what Byron Ferguson shows and teaches in his book. I will say though I don’t believe it’s ever been put out there in an easy to digest RUclips video. This good. Keep up the good work.
This is a helpful video Erik. At one point you mentioned this guy was having strike plate contact. Is that often due to grip/pressure in the wrong place?
It can be, but more often that not, that issue is from shooting an arrow that's too stiff. If the arrow is too stiff it won't bend enough upon release to clear (bend around) the shelf before the fletchings get there
I'd love to build you one. Check out the website www.stpatricklakelongbows.com or reach out to me on Facebook or via email stpatricklakelongbows@gmail.com, with any questions. I look forward to building one for you!
Are you able to turn your wrist like that because you shoot a longbow with thicker limbs? Would it work with a recurve? I also cant a little more than you.
I'm not actually turning my wrist. I'm keeping my forearm completely relaxed, which allows my wrist and fingers to be pulled in alignment with the string. Because of that, there is no side or twisting pressure on the string. Then when you're ready to shoot, just stop holding on, so the string can push your fingers out of the way. This can be done with any bow. However, the longer the bow the easier it is to let your fingers be pulled into completely alignment, because of the string angle
@@jarridcarter5001 the key is to relax your forearm and wrist and let everything get pulled into alignment. Getting your forearm and wrist relaxed as you draw can be a struggle to figure out. Easiest to do with a light weight bow so you get the feeling then you can move up as you are comfortable
Here's what I tell people... You probably aren't going to hurt anything on any glass backed bow, but for the effort it takes to string and unstring why would you leave your limbs under tension? Learn the push pull method, it takes less than 1 second to string your bow or unstring your bow. I am aware of an individual who would leave all of his bows strung, one of the strings either was damaged or was chewed thru by a mouse or something. When the string came apart, it nocked several bows off his wall and 4 of them had dings/gouges in the fiberglass. All would have been avoided if it was unstrung
thanks for telling people that anchor point is far less important than alignment. It annoys the dickens out of me when people tell newbies that the world revolves around the anchor point. "Stop holding on".... that is what Byron Ferguson says on the release. That is another thing that drives me mad about 'experts' and that is telling you to pull your hand backwards on the release. There is no need to... you just stop holding on. Hill did it, Ferguson did it, Shultz did it.
Absolutely right! There's also a trend of creating so-called 'second anchor point' - meaning forcibly dragging your hand after release to the exactly same point every time - which completely doesn't make sense, if after release your relaxed hand doesn't naturally come to the same spot on its own, it means your alignment or back tension is screwed up and you have to work on that first of all, not to artificially force your hand to end up every time on the same spot
Thank you, most helpful.
Dreaming of one of your beautiful bows.
Finally an Archer who’s knows what proper Anchor & Alignment is!!
Thanks!
@@stpatricklakelongbows820 So many dudes teach utter crap leading straight to Target Panic!
This goes way deeper than lots of other videos. Very good!
Put well . Every thing that you said. Your right everyone does have different anchor points and one way I test to find is shooting an intentional shorter draw length and slowly work it back to where it needs to be . thanks , you enabled me to think about it .
Super helpful, thanks! I think I’ll need to just do some blind releasing focusing on the mechanics of the draw and release. Don’t have a haybale but I have a hillside.
Very well done explanation.
If you shot split finger instead of three under you would be almost identical in the way James Berry (JD Berry)shoots, it is also very very close to what Byron Ferguson shows and teaches in his book.
I will say though I don’t believe it’s ever been put out there in an easy to digest RUclips video. This good.
Keep up the good work.
Archers!
Pay very close attention to this post! Now I’m no Cody Greenwood but I’d say that this is an excellent release!!😂 ❤
🏹🦌☠️
Great stuff I agree with everything you show 100%. It took me a while to find but exactly the same.
I want one of these bows . May be my next purchase
This is a helpful video Erik. At one point you mentioned this guy was having strike plate contact. Is that often due to grip/pressure in the wrong place?
It can be, but more often that not, that issue is from shooting an arrow that's too stiff. If the arrow is too stiff it won't bend enough upon release to clear (bend around) the shelf before the fletchings get there
That white glass tho🥰
Nice 👍
After seeing the arc of those limbs Im going to see if you will build me a bow. I currently shoot JD Berry and Northern Mist.
I'd love to build you one. Check out the website www.stpatricklakelongbows.com or reach out to me on Facebook or via email stpatricklakelongbows@gmail.com, with any questions. I look forward to building one for you!
Excellent explanation! I have a question... If I buy a 35 lb ASL, doesn't the arrow slow down in flight? I use it for 3D tournaments
Could you even hunt deer with good tune?
No matter what draw weight you shoot, the arrow will always slow down in flight because of drag
@@Gerak70 some states do not allow you to hunt with a draw weight that low.
But yes, with a good tune, that is plenty of power to kill a deer
good tips do you shoot split also?
Yes these same principles apply to shooting split finger. I personally shoot 3 under primarily but I can also shoot split
Are you able to turn your wrist like that because you shoot a longbow with thicker limbs? Would it work with a recurve? I also cant a little more than you.
I'm not actually turning my wrist. I'm keeping my forearm completely relaxed, which allows my wrist and fingers to be pulled in alignment with the string. Because of that, there is no side or twisting pressure on the string. Then when you're ready to shoot, just stop holding on, so the string can push your fingers out of the way.
This can be done with any bow. However, the longer the bow the easier it is to let your fingers be pulled into completely alignment, because of the string angle
I usually attempt to keep my hand flat like you showed..ill try your way this evening!
@@jarridcarter5001 the key is to relax your forearm and wrist and let everything get pulled into alignment. Getting your forearm and wrist relaxed as you draw can be a struggle to figure out. Easiest to do with a light weight bow so you get the feeling then you can move up as you are comfortable
Thanks for the video…Question, do you think it’s okay to keep a bow strung, if it’s modern made or not a selfbow?
Here's what I tell people... You probably aren't going to hurt anything on any glass backed bow, but for the effort it takes to string and unstring why would you leave your limbs under tension?
Learn the push pull method, it takes less than 1 second to string your bow or unstring your bow.
I am aware of an individual who would leave all of his bows strung, one of the strings either was damaged or was chewed thru by a mouse or something. When the string came apart, it nocked several bows off his wall and 4 of them had dings/gouges in the fiberglass. All would have been avoided if it was unstrung
@@stpatricklakelongbows820 thank you so much for your reply…I concur.
Ніштяк! 🖖🤘💪🇺🇦
thanks for telling people that anchor point is far less important than alignment.
It annoys the dickens out of me when people tell newbies that the world revolves around the anchor point.
"Stop holding on".... that is what Byron Ferguson says on the release.
That is another thing that drives me mad about 'experts' and that is telling you to pull your hand backwards on the release. There is no need to... you just stop holding on.
Hill did it, Ferguson did it, Shultz did it.
Absolutely right! There's also a trend of creating so-called 'second anchor point' - meaning forcibly dragging your hand after release to the exactly same point every time - which completely doesn't make sense, if after release your relaxed hand doesn't naturally come to the same spot on its own, it means your alignment or back tension is screwed up and you have to work on that first of all, not to artificially force your hand to end up every time on the same spot
👍🏼👍🏼🏹🇺🇸
Wait so are all your bows tillered for three under or just that one?
Nope. I tiller for split or 3 under when requested
Please start using a mobil mic..... us old people cant hear your voice without one!