Laying Pipe & Tying in Downspouts On my DREAMSHOP Build!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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I tried out a new camera and editing program with this one, it appears that the quality is suffering a bit but Ill make sure were back to good quality on the next one! hope its still enjoyable!
I was thinking "man what's wrong with my laptop"
esp bad at the start with the trees in the background
Not to worry. Any video from you makes for a GREAT day.. Thank you and thumbs UP!! 👍.. "EDIT" , Matt the video is fine now. Sometimes it takes youtube some time to render your uploaded video so that it plays back in a higher resolution.... It looks awesome now!
Hey! It really looks like the issue might be on the exporting side of things much more than it is the camera! I've suffer this sort of weird look whenever the camera moves when recording with my gopro, and it was a lack of bitrate when exporting.
Thank you for the video!
Video seems to be in 30fps if you view stats for nerds.
Matt, it doesn't matter what quality the video is, I'll still watch it😁👍 You've been busy with that shop, looking GOOD!
I sit in my recliner with my coffee and puppy, armchair supervising Matt work on his beloved workshop. After watching all the work, Matt completed, I'm exhausted, so it's nap time! Good video, Matt thanks for taking us along! 🙂
Your installation looks really good to me. With my 40+ years in this type of work, I would only recommend a couple things I would do differently and a few other comments. 1. To add a couple of cleanouts would be an easy and cheap installation now and save you many headaches should you have a clog in the future. To lessen the occurrence of clogs, I highly recommend gutter guards. I didn't go with the expensive advertised materials for my personal application. I used the plastic ones from Lowe's that are only about $2 per 3-foot section and snap in easily and last for years. I have used these for over 30 years on two homes and never had a gutter clog from leaves. I had a LOT of trees like you and prior to the gutter guard installation, I had constant clogs in the fall. You have a lot of trees close-by, and they WILL blow onto your roof and clog your gutter at some point. 2. Your rock check dam won't last, in my opinion. Rock is too small and there isn't a means to slow the water. Beef it up with much larger rock or add some cheap plastic corrugated pipe to the bottom of the slope to slow the velocity at the discharge point on flatter ground. I have used them forever and they work great to prevent erosion on slopes. We call them "slope drains". A slight up-turn at the discharge point helps even more with velocity. You have a lot of roof area to drain, and it will be fast.
The addition of the geotextile fabric over your drain backfill was a really good idea. Washed rock silts in quickly if not protected by some filter fabric.
Protect your shop entrance concrete. The 90 deg approach edge will chip easily. After some settlement of the backfill, I would add a short 2 ft or so concrete ramp to the shop floor with expansion material separating the two hard surfaces until you can get your apron poured.
Just my comments. Take them for what they are worth. Good video.
Very good suggestion, expert advice.
Great job, can’t even tell you dug it all up! 😊
Another approach would be to put some angle iron on the edge of the concrete.
@@user2C47 For me, I would not do that without welded anchors cast in the wet concrete. What I am speaking of would be similar to a bridge expansion joint cast into a concrete deck. Positive attachment/connectiion at this point would not be optimal. I am not intending to be negative to your comment. Just my opinion. Thanks.
And Bollards. Protect the corners and access points. Need be careful w placement now.
All we need now is a quick video of the drains working in a rain storm. Proof that it all works.
I can't wait until the shop crane is installed and working. That will be as big of a game changer as the shop itself!
- what I would suggest is that if you were to do this again or have time to edit = I would include a cleanout at the bottom of the downspout before it heads into the ground - this will come in handy as your years go by and critters or leaves that dry up on the sidewall collect. Unlike a sewer with toilets / showers connecting - with roof drainage - you will at times have slow rains - and days things will find their way into your pipe without enough or much water. If you do more of this - I would also buy a wye and a 45 vs. those tee's to create a better flow going into the main line ( as you have less turbulence when the drain hits the main. I would also jump to 6" from 4" when I connected that last gutter. You're going to be amazed how much water a building your size carries off in a downpour.
1. you shouldn't use a ty in a horizontal position; use a y with 45 instead; ty is only for vertical applications.
2. Clean out at bottom of downspout before going underground.
3. you created an S-trap and it can't be outside where it can FREEZE or it will be broken when it freezes; the p-trap needs to be inside where it's going to be heated in a pit with a steel cover. Anyway, you should have a sediment/oil trap before the drain leaves the building or any oil could drain to the storm drain.
Speaking from bitter personal experience, burying an S-trap without any access will end in tears eventually, especially as you plan to concrete over the top one day! (And no, it wasn’t me who buried it 😁) As others have said, there are also the issues of oil traps and protection against freezing.
I'm learning, too Matt. Is it easier to create the slope by digging a bit deep and find slope with gravel change?
Exactly what I was thinking 🤔🙂 Plus I'd have had a rod out access cover at the top of the run! But I'm 72 so I've learned a bit from bitter experience!
That was going to be my suggestion as well...dirt will settle unless there is a decent flow...other wise looks good...missed a few swear words when the 45 fell innthe dirt with glue on it
Nice job Matt! One thought, those traps are going to hold water and could freeze being above frost line.
Not sure the heated floor will keep it warm enough at all times.
Suggestion for you. In front of your doors you put an elbow down to your trap. With my experience every shop I have ever been in gets dirt down the drain especially if you wash vehicles and equipment. Therefore you will have mud Settling in your traps. I would suggest taking the elbows off and putting a tee on with a clean out plug facing up that you can resess down in the concrete so you don't break it off during snowremoval. Then when it plugs Then when it plugs Just remove the cap and stick the wand from your pressure washer down it to break the clog free.
At a minimum. I think the traps will be an incredible pain in the tucus. They will fill very quickly with dirt, mud, grease and other floor drain sweepings and such. You only need a bit over a quart or 2 of floor sweepings to fill the trap. You will get rid of them or you will spend an incredible amount of time cleaning them out and will have a real problem if you concrete over them. Put in a one way flapper valve (back flow preventer) out at the outlet. It will stop the drafts, allow unrestricted flow, and keep critters out as well. And you might be able to use a snake if there is ever a problem if you put in an inspection tee (clean out) at the very beginning.
You have done amazing work. Keep on keeping on with this project.
Between the two of you, you have offered some really good advice. That little grate that Matt put on the end will be like a strainer that slows the flow and could backup the floor drains, that back flow preventer at the outlet instead of the grate would definitely be an upgrade. Thanks for the good tips!
I'd like to add the down 90 elbow is just outside of the protection of the concrete floor. So whatever you have covering it to ramp up to the floor from ground level will be getting crushed during entry/exit from the garage. This can break that elbow in a hurry. Suggest along with the trap mentioned by others to reinforce this area with a concrete pour or other to prevent crushing the vertical pipes and elbows.
Looking forward to the overhead crane installation
I love the intros with the band playing in front of your shop....
8.8K views in 22 mins, that's some going, all your hard work is paying off. Love the way your workshop is coming along, and can't wait for you to start installing the overhead crane.
And 15k in 36 mins…. Really good! People are excited to see Matt’s videos
Speaking of that crane... It seems to be way too heavy for what the building is made out of.
It's what he got at a auction. He said it was to big but better to have to much than not enough. From what I remember he got it for a good price. Have to cut it down some
@@kirdot2011 that's why he poured footers for the steel columns and rails that it's going to run on.
For the trap to the floor drain I would have opted for a swing check instead so there’s no chance of a freeze up, or will the concentration of coolant in there solve that issue?!?😂
Best part of the weekend is watching back-to-back videos like these!
Only recommendation for your downspouts to have a clean out. A simple 45-Degree Sewer & Drain Wye at the base of the Lean To down spout would make any loose debris from the trees much easier to fix/clean in the fall season !
Yep, easy to just push a blower head on a hose down from the end to clear out any sediment buildup. That's a really shallow drain angle, plenty of time for fine stuff to settle out.
The difficulty you are having digging shows how well you compacted the site. Good job!
I'm 70 years old and have heard from so many old farts like me that young people today don't have the same hard work ethic that we and folks before us had. I invite all those nay sayers to watch your videos. You are, without a doubt, one of the hardest working young men I have seen.
I'm 72 and I totally agree with your assessment of Matt's contemporaries. ( and I grew up picking cotton and other field crops all day in the summer heat of the Rio Grande Valley in extreme south Texas)
Great job Matt. I didn't see any outside lights yet. I know you didn't forget about them, I'm just interested in what you'll be using. I really liked the high bay lights.
Take the machines away, I'll promise you they want have the same work ethics!!!!!!!
Tom nobody lays pipe like boomers. That’s why we have two boomers running for president. Big hands don and sleepy joe had nine kids combined. Todays fathers can’t put food on their families like your generation, let alone lay some good pipe
Hey Matt I sure hope you do a video of your wife doing a review of the shop when it's finished cause she's very entertaining!
Dear Sir! It's realy a Dream Shop you build! To have that Shop & space fore a long time in future, is realy a Dream! Con grat Sir! From Peter Eriksson Sweden Europe 😊😊😊!
I strongly suggest some type of guards for the door jambs and the corners of your buildings as even small bumps can be costly repairs. Looking good love your channel thanks for being here ❤!!!!
Yuppers, 8 inch steel concrete filled imbeded pipe 2 feet off corners in a triangle.
A buildingowner I had a shop in tried jist one on each corner. Nope, not enough.
Had to put in two more to make it a triangle with cross bars middle and top.
Next truck that hit it was totaled.
He used 10 inch pipe with 3 #4 rebar in it also in a triangle.
Building insurance company was satisfied.
He also put real thick rubber bumpers on the outside edge or the pipes.
I myself damn near neeeded a change of shorts when the last truck hit it.
16 feet from my shop s@#t went flying everywhere one hell of a boom driver had already unbuckled his seat belt and was lucky he didn't end up thru his windshield.
He did end up getting a ride to the hospital and nothing else got done with all the jaw bonnin' that afternoon by everyone watching the carnage being taken care of waiting on the building inspector to clear occupency.
Ooh well, I was salary anyways.
@@pinwizz69 You are absolutely right! Nothing to do with people that can't drive/back up . . . it only takes one little moment of distraction, then "BAM" the whole day just went to 'ratchet'
Sometimes just a 5 gal bucket filled with concrete and a 6ft delineator put on top is more productive (and movable).
I'm sure he already knows this and has plans to mitigate any damage to the dream shop.
Definitely a great point, protect your entrance ways from accidents.
I would have installed a couple of clean outs, especially near the floor drain p-trap, because it's not if, but when the drain gets clogged.
I agree with Mike on the cleanouts
@@dougsloyer7671 It comes from experience!
Yeah, replace the 90's with a T where the lines come out of the shop.
I would have put a tee instead of an ell at the drains to the garage. Eventually those lines will collect leaf and dirt matter and will need to be flushed out. Also if the floor drain clogs you would have two access points to flush out the lines. I would have also put a clean out at the first downspout. If you put a concrete apron over your pipe and have a problem. Only saying from experience. Nice job on the building. Keep up the good work.
I wonder if that pipe has a large enough bore for the square meterage of the roof? That’s roof is going to collect a lot of water for that small diameter pipe. As other have said I would have used gullies with anti reverse flap traps so I could lift the manhole covers and clear out the debris.
The coolest thing about this video is seeing some of the old equipment (the compactors) in use specifically for this project, which is why you got them in the first place! Seeing this FINALLY come together is a real treat and I hope that maybe someday in the future, you can host a viewers party - I would love to see this all in person! Keep up the great work Matt! Among all the creators I follow on YT you're at the top!
The new drone footage of the shop at the beginning is great, it’s amazing how big the new shop looks compared to the container shop
What an absolute treat! Two videos this close together make for a good week. Thanks for the awesome content Matt, seeing your dream come together is awesome.
I believe he even dropped a hint in the previous video, with the tiny compactor :-)
Hear hear! I got up early just to watch!
Probably should have put a clean-out Y at the beginning of the Run and another clean out 50 fifty feet or so down the line. You'll probably be alright because you can always run 100 ft clean out tape where dumps out
Have you thought about going off the grid ? Has the train derailment affected you?
@@lesr5737 he could go in where it dumps out or at any of the downspouts he could go in.
Glueing the pipes helps keep out the tiny roots that eventually grow into BIG ones and clog your drain line! How you going to remove leaves washing into the downpipes from the gutters? Water pressure may not be enough to scour the inside of the pipes. Maybe need some inspection eyes to allow rodding them out?
the shop looks great ! But asking for tips after the job is done is kind of funny. Oil separator,, cleanouts, AND a larger pipe are my tips . You will get a crazy amount of water from that roof
Loved seeing that a lot of the pieces you collected and fixed over the years became part of this project. Not sure it was “per plan” but it surely looked like.
Congratulations. Almost done!
Like a surgeon with that bucket!
So close to the finish, probably one of the most invested series I've ever been to a series on RUclips.
Something to think about when pouring the approach to the doors is to insulate under the slab. It will protect the traps for the inside drains from frost and also keeps the concrete from heaving up and down during any sort of frost you may get.
Add insulation to buried exterior sides of slab, too.
When you do the rear downspouts you might consider keeping the floor drains separate and plumbing the downspouts into a cistern to collect the rainwater.
The rock at the exit of the drain pipe was the cherry on top. You make it appear you really know what you are doing. Great to see that left for dead equipment you brought back to life working for you.
Hi Matt. Do you realize how many of us watching this are drooling wishing we had a shop just like your's. LOL. I bet you feel like a kid on Christmas day everytime you see it coming together. You deserve it buddy. Thanks for entertaining me again. Take care.
I need a shop like that in my life.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Matt, have you thought about a rainwater collection tank fitted to the down-spouts? A great way of reducing your water bill when you need to pressure wash all the machinery and clean your new workshop. Love the videos!
I was thinking the same, little easier than pulling water from creek
I would think the water would be full of oil & grease from repairing equipment since he hooked his floor drain system to his down spout drain. you wouldn’t want to use that water to clean with.
@@steamindemon3389 Well, yes it would be full of oil & grease if it was connected to the run off but I'm talking about putting a branch connector and valve half way between the roof guttering and the shop floor. This way clean rainwater can be collected in a tank then, once full, the valve could be shut off and the excess water could carry on down the down-spout and out into the creek.
A great video! I would have added a clean out or two for future clogs to snake it out . Maybe a roof collection system with a 5 or 10,000 gal, underground storage tank for equipment wash and pressure washing shop floor , and a possible use on future grey water system ? Local fire depts like knowing that there is a clean water supply available when needed to. I admit I have Shop envy Matt !!!!!! Great building ( dream shop) We can all live vicariously through you !!!
Matt. You. Did. Such a. Good. Job. People. That. Saw. This will. Want. To hire you out to do there work. Awesome. Job. God bless. You & your family
Heck yeah Matt! This is what I’m talking about! Don’t get me wrong I love all the equipment videos but I miss the videos of you out in the field doing construction work with your equipment. Keep up the good content buddy! Your shop looking incredible.
Glad you like them!
Good to see the original trenching compactor in use from one of your earliest videos from the workshop under the house. Everything comes in useful one day! Keep up the good work.
I use a cordless grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut pipe and when possible a miter saw. The miter saw always leaves clean straight cuts but the grinder usually gets everywhere. In tight spots I use a oscillating cutter.
Mat I would say without doubt you have provided a first class finish on the lead into your dream shop you should be proud.
Thanks for the double video release! I hope there are many young subscribers taking notes, to have a shop that nice at your age is a true testament to what hard work and a clear vision can do. Great job!
Maybe plant a couple pairs of upright steel pipes to form bollards to protect your garage door entrances now before you need to drill down later on. Once you're pouring the slab just dump some concrete into each pipe and you have sturdy protection.
Great accomplishment Matt! congratulations! I'd add an angle iron on the slab edge at the entrances, to keep it from chipping, until you make your concrete landing pad. 👌💪
Matt, I’m so happy for you with your new workshop. When you get that wood burner hooked up you’ll be able to lay there on the floor and work on all those trophies you drag home and complete comfort you deserve it.
23:30 Around here (Manitoba, Canada) 3/4 Clean is crushed rock 3/4" in size and 3/4 Down is crushed rock 3/4" mixed with smaller rock.
I'm no plumber, but I thought floor drains from a shop had to plumbed into a holding tank/oil separater. The last shop I worked at was this way and the tanks were pumped out every few months. I would kill just to have a building or garage big enough to park my truck in. I'm jealous!
Depends on where you live. Doesnt look like Matt is having to deal with permits and such
For most municipalities code is only enforceable on residences and commercial buildings. This is a farm out-building so as an owner, you can do what you want. I'm sure Matt isn't going to be dumping oil down the drains anyway.
I agree with John and Blake. "Ah shits" do happen.
I agree, you need a oil interceptor on the end of that pipe, remember its not called diesel creek for nothing!
@@John_Graff I'm sure Matt's intensions are the best, but you do know why it's called Diesel Creek, right?
So glad to see everything coming along for you , just goes to show that with the tight attitude and plenty of hard work you can accomplish your dreams , great job alas usual
You’re very meticulous on how you are doing this job ! Keep up the great work! Dave the handyman!
This video was awesome Matt. I’m a car guy who watches your channel for the repair videos mostly.. it was cool watching you bring out all these pieces of machinery that you’ve fixed, to help with the shop that your building. Great work on the fixes, the building, and everything between!!!!!! You keep producing videos and I’ll keep watching. Thanks for the awesome content
Wouldnt it be nice to have all these toys with the property to park them? 😀
Hi Matt, Here in the UK we put a silt trap drain at the bottom of each down pipe to allow access to clear out leaf debris etc. With all those trees around the site, you might find them blowing on the roof and down the gutters to block the pipe. Just trying to be helpful!
To me it makes no sense to bury S-traps because they need to be accessible to clear clogs. Like under the sink, they need to be in open space.
@@bettingru The ones we use on our properties have a simple lift up lid to easily clear silt or rotted leaf mulch. Clearing these out occasionally prevents material getting further into drain runs which means drain rodding or jetting hassles. Our silt traps are decent sized cube shaped sumps and not S traps which block easily
That's awesome that you get to use equipment that you actually repaired.
Wow, Matt- I wasn't thinking you'd put out another video so soon, and an hour long video for Sunday!
Thank you so much, God Bless.
Wow what a project. I really enjoyed seeing you use all of the different equipment, especially the rollers/tampers you revived. Your skills, talents and confidence to take on any task is admirable. Thanks for sharing your time and adventures with us. Peace
I love the view of the door to your shop with the two garden chairs. Here in South Tfexas wherre days are from hot to blast furnace, it's amazinh how hot dozer wrk will attract supervisors with garden chairs abd iced tea, always willing to lend an opinion.
And just when I was wondering why you put traps on the floor drains but not the downspouts, there was the explanation. You always seem to anticipate every question I have. Great job on the drain and on the shop.
You know it’s good when your getting 2 videos on the weekend from diesel creek 👌keep up the good work matt
Good to see all Matt's projects come to life for this build. In this video alone, two compactors he bought back to life on the channel. Bravo Matt !!!
The amount of Sweat Equity gone into this property is staggering. it looks fantastic 😎👍
Also, the amount of machinery you've saved and repurposed into the project has been fun to watch over the years.
Very cool to warch you use the machines that you brought back to life.
The building trap should have had a clean out for when sediment builds up and plugs it in the future, the 90s used will make roding it out latter very "fun filled"
Hopefully once completed you'll have a big shop party with some of the builders, fellow YTr's and of course the band! ~Jack, VEG
I love the intro music, always rewind and play it twice.
I love watching the progress you're making on the shop, Matt! It looks to this observer that you are doing things the right way so that you won't have many "punch list" items to take care of when you are ready to move in. Anyway, I look forward to seeing you at work in the shop, soon! Best wishes to you, my friend.
It's awesome seeing you use some of the equipment you've revived over the years! Love both of the compactors!! They seem to be working quite well! :)
That looks like a lot of fun Matt playing with motorized toys and moving rocks too! LOL!!!!!
Another step closer to completion Matt! It's nice you can daylight the drain over the hill and not have to put in a dry well to capture the runoff. Where I am I would worry about the floor drain traps freezing in a normal winter, not this one. It's good to see you making use of some of your "rescued toys"! It won't be long before your shop will be open for business!
Gonna need some gutter guards to prevent leaves from clogging. Gutters and pipes
May want to add a clean out tee in place the elbows exiting the building…clean outs aren’t important til you need one
Love this channel!! The first heavy rain he's going to flood the garage! Especially if he gets a backup....I know....been there done that. Also you never have enough clean outs to run the snake down. Love the new shop..it's a dream come true! Take care and be safe! 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🙏🏻
I think you'll find that grate on the end of the pipe will clog very quickly, especially when you get rain during Autumn. A spring loaded flap would work better in this situation.
Yeah, any leaves that wash down the drains will clog the pipe immediately. Diffuser pad is also to small.
Matt, the issue is if the water level in your gutters ever gets higher than your cement floor level, water will flood your shop by coming in through your traps. You have a huge roof draining into those 2 gutters. Your drainpipe is not large and fairly level, designed to flow gently. If leaves plug the exit, or your gutters can't keep up with the rain flow, the water level could stack up in the gutters above your floor level. If I'm right, water would come in your floor drains. You could mitigate with plugs for your floor drains. Love your channel. Paul
should have went with 8 to 10" culvert pipe across the front and used the smaller only for plumbing them into it and put backflow check valves on the shop floor drains.
he may be able to put backflow checks on the drains, if there square and have the pipe sticking inside. he can always add them outside where the lines exit under the slab, but they need to be serviceable/accessible.
Yes that's the way to go Matt Compaction is everything that's gona last a long time. Great job.
Woooo Mat what a great job you have done with building that shop! 👍
I would just like to say that what has really impressed me is how well you have thought out this whole build and especially the little things that have tied it all together that a guy like me would have never thought of!! Matt my hat is really off to you! Love your show & can’t wait for you to put the shop into use. All the best!!👍👍👍👍
One thing that you should add is an overflow pipe. You have trees around, they shed leaves that can clog things up and since your floor drains are connected you might flood the place. Since it's all said and done now maybe just cut holes in the downspouts below the floor level so that if the drain clogs they can just drain to the ground. Make sure to inspect the system in the fall and before thaw in case you got leaves or ice clogging.
good thinking. mesh on the gutters them selfe shuld help against leaves?
@@dvilduck1 Up top on the roof, but then that means going up there to check them.
In line leaf traps at knee height work great…. The water drops through a piece of mesh at an angle and scoots leaves and other debris out…
@@rogerday6184 Absolutely! Leaves, there will probably be some falling next autumn at Matt's! ;-)
Here in Sweden, it is probably the most common way to avoid clogging the drain.
Man, your soundtrack just makes my day. (And the rest of your work😊😊) Greetings from Bournemouth UK.
I would definitely always glue drain pipes. If nothing else, it prevents roots from growing into the pipe. Yeah, you shouldn't have roots in that location, but like you said glue doesn't cost much in the grand scheme of things (especially when you're digging by hand, and the prospect of having to re-hand-dig it to fix a problem later makes the glue cost trivial in comparison)
Absolutely, had to deal with roots once on a job where hand digging was the only option, total nightmare that was having to dig a 30ft trench on terribly rocky ground to find some 10ft of roots inside the pipes
If only to save the headache of the pipe coming apart when you back fill.
Here in Germany these pipes have O-ring shaped rubber seals in sleeves at the end of the pipe. On the pipe follows a layer of sand, so that sharp edged stones don't perforate the pipes.
And when there is concrete going over the drain, a bit of glue is well worth it.
I would put down a row of perforated tubes when the job are going down anyway. Why not? Just to be safe, keeping this hole area dry.
Much water will rain against the building and wash down right before the doors.
Love this one, super important to get good drainage from the building! My only concern is the shop drains into the storm water pipes, which could create potential contamination to the creek below.
You are getting super efficient with that Skidsteer There Matt What a great video as always 49:08 @Diesel Creek
I’ve never done any of this kind of work but it’s really interesting to see the process. Reminds me of the work you did around the foundation of the church building. The variety of content is what makes this one of my favourite channels. 😊👍👍🇬🇧
Hell yeah!!! One on Friday, and another on Sunday!!! An outstanding shop you have built! I can't wait for you to 'break it in'!!
With that catchment area you could have a couple of large tanks filled with a good downpour. That would make you even more self sufficient.
I am planning on Retaining the water from the back half of the building for that purpose.
Hi Matt some real close quarters manoeuvring, bet you had sweaty hands on the controls there. Great content. As a retired sparky in the UK really interested in your electrical install.
Looking forward to the next one.👋
Thanks Matt for a great video that demonstrates your knowledge, attention to detailand painstaking work. Well done !
I would have suggested running the floor waste through a separate drain, that way you can a) catch/use the rain water and b) run the floor waste into a grease trap to prevent contamination if you have any oil spills ect.
DC, excellent job! My father and brother were both general contractors so I've witnessed a lot of projects first hand. You were wise to glue the joints! The ground moves with freezing and thawing and the backfill alone could have caused movement in the joints. Better safe than sorry. I love the way you auction rescue old machinery and give it a second career. Great video!
Truly outstanding work, Matt. I really love that the big vibrator roller that was such a royal pain to restore made a beautiful smooth path of all that stone. Really nice!
Just a suggestion for where your outlet to the side of hill is Lay chicken wire down B4 you lay the Stone ( enough to wrap the stone in ) so that the stone don't wash away over time. It will last longer and be less expensive replacing Stone as it will over time. Hope this makes some sense.
Matt, I’ve really enjoyed watching you use all the equipment you purchased over the last year or so to build your shop. Well done!
So happy for you Matt. It's buttoning up pretty damn nicely, way to go!! You've earned what your hard work has earned for you!!
Excited about seeing you new shop going up! I know you have been anxious. Have you considered concrete filled poles on each side of each opening and on the overhang where the dozer is parked, to keep someone from hitting the door sides going in and out of the shop?
Great work Matt. I would have done the same. But I think it turned out fantastic. Keep up the great work
I'm watching some of the old episodes. You've got some real good friends. Bring a 12 pack. Stand around & watch you work your butt off, and they drink the beer. When they could have helped & then you'll could have enjoyed the beer together
The shop is looking great! We have all been excited for this move! Keep up the amazing work look forward to each and every video Cheers from PEI Canada!
Congrats! Very nice installation! You do solid long term dependable work!
Very environmentaly friendly compactor!
Happy to hear you talk about eroding that hillside right off the bat. There's going to be a lot of water coming off that big roof. The rock check will slow the velocity and disperse the kinetic energy as it comes out the end of you pipe so that water has a chance to soak in before it hits the creek. Rather than going vertical (up and down the slope, my suggestion is to dig a trench across the slope for your rock check. Install a 'T' at the rock check and lay drainfield pipe on the surface (held down with a few strategically placed rocks) in both directions so the line can distribute the storm water and be easily inspected. Daylight both ends of the' T' . With selective thinning (junk trees) on that hillside and taking every buck you have on your property you'll have at least one select timber cut in your lifetime :)
adding a few more feet of heavy rock "spillway" , past the pipe exit, that fans out at the end, will enhance the anti-erosion efforts you have completed already
What???
That's a lot of work to avoid a little erosion. He can just drop a bigger rocks at the end and it will achieve the same thing. IF its actually an issue.
@@davec.3198 The decision is how much do you value a healthy watershed, the topsoil on your land and clean water. A highly personal decision. 😊
Awesome another video! So much to come with this build in so excited
Love watching you work, Geter Done. You remind me of me when I was your age. Thanks.
Is your drain pipe large enough to handle 3 down spouts in a heavy rain and will the pressure push out of the traps to the building drains. May need check valve
I think those traps in your floor drains at the front of the doors might just freeze up in a cold winter since they are outside and not too deep. That guard in the end of your drain pipe will constantly plug with leaves/seeds and cause water to backup into your shop through the floor drains. Hindsight being what it is, I wonder if you should have had your floor drains exit the side of the building into a trench and then tee into the main drain line. less susceptible to damage in that location and you could put a check valve in the line to prevent the possibility of rainwater (or mice) backing up into your shop due to a blockage at the end of your drain pipe. Also, I would deep six the idea of someday pouring a concrete pad in front of your shop. Big project, big expense and a maintenance problem in addition to cracking and what for? You have a nice driveway there already.
I agree p trap will freeze. But the guard at end will be much easier to clean than the p-traps. My three cents worth idea.😄
It will need the aprons to help get things in and out.
those floor drains are not carrying a lot of water, it would be inside temp water and likely not going to freeze fast. The P-trap is about 12-14” deep and the ground doesn’t freeze that deep where he is located. I think he is safe. The end of that pipe has got big enough holes it’s unlikely to clog with leaves and water pressure will keep it free anyhow. To be extra safe could have put in a check valve right where it comes out over the bank, probably still could if problems occur.
@@bigdog2024 My worries would be more like possibly needing an oil separator from those inside drains, as there is a chance of oil getting in there. Would at least be mandatory for such a building around here (and add a pretty penny to the list for those)
@@alexanderkupke920 He’s probably not going to spill much on that pretty new floor! He seems to be a commercial garage to an extent but I don’t know the laws in Pennsylvania where he lives. Plus he is in a rural area so not a lot of rules there like in town where it would probably be required.
Can’t wait to see how far the water shoots out of that pipe during a heavy rain. Horizontal Old Faithful.
Matt just curious if you took into consideration about those traps freezing up. Not sure but up here nobody traps floor drains on the outside of the building envelope just to keep them from freezing up or they don’t put a trap in them at all.
That's what I thought
Thank you for yet another enjoyable episode. Suggestion: If you continue the drain pipe down the hill and connect to an impeller/generator you could probably power the workshop during the rainy season.
That would cost more to install then it will ever giva you back in electricity. You need a constant flow of water to gain anything in the long run.
These videos are awesome seeing how other put drainage pipe in very neet to watch Thanks for Sharing Matt 10:48 @Diesel Creek