As a solo mechanic on my own shit you earned a sub with this tip. I work on everything by myself so not needing someone else to bleed my brakes makes my life easier
I've done this for 20 years, I can bleed all 4 wheels by myself. I can't seem to teach others though, they use a hose that fits too loosely or they don't fill the resi, or they don't know how to just barely open the bleeder so the fluid doesn't flow right back. Oh well, they can keep doing the "are you pumping?, Did you hold it? Did the pedal hit the floor?" method for as long as they like.... PS: Gatorade bottles work perfect.
I just did it solo today, and I have made the mistake at the last caliper, that I pumped until the reservoir got empty, and pumped air into the system😖😖 I had enough already (doing it wheel-by-wheel, and with only 1 jack), so I overlooked it xd But anyway when I will be able to use our pit, I won’t have to take the wheels off, so no problem
The techs out there talking about air thru the threads on the bleeder screw don't seem to learn. Just crack the bleeder a quarter turn, no need to go 4 turns. Also, if you put a dab of brake fluid on the thread base it'll act like a gasket and keep air out.
There are two things that can go wrong with this type of bleeding. Number one is it can draw air back in around the threads on the bleeder not itself if it is a loose fit when backed out. And number two, never pump the pedal fast or all the way to the bottom. Fast will saturate your fluid with air bubbles suspended and the fluid that will eventually settle out but it takes forever and…, When you push that piston all the way down where it’s not used to going, you’re pushing the Chevron cup up in the front of the master cylinder in over a crud laden area that it’s never been over before in normal use. Inevitably, you’ll soon be replacing your master cylinder when the crud cuts the Chevron cup.
Been doing like this for years. Also they make ,one man bleeder fittings, they have a one way check built in .if you don't have a pressure bleeder this works great.
I got a brake bleeder from harbor freight. Put a vacuum on the valve, open it up, close it when the bleeder starts to lose pressure, pump it a few times to get the vacuum strong again and repeat. Holds constant pressure on the valve so air doesn’t get pushed in
I tried this once. Didn't work out, I towed my car to a shop and it serviced... After watching this, looks like my mistake was not "cracking" the bleeder. I full blown opened that shit. Lol guess I'll have to try it again.
@@ronniecox109 I dunno man. I hadn't gotten laid in years. Went to bang my wife and ended up getting a finger in me bum and called her daddy. Had to re learn how it all went...
Usually only a problem if its a really old master cylinder. I did this exact technique yesterday on a truck at work because all the hourly guys were too busy to help lol
@@contraband1543 Older seals are more prone to breaking .. just be careful and don't pump like a maniac and u should be good... you don't need to do leg presses on the pedal.
Another way is to push the pedal and stick a broomstick between the pedal and the seat and leave it over night. The air bubbles will return to the master cylinder. No bleeding necessary and you get a solid brake.
@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 should I leave the cap off or on I have a baseball bat pushing it all the way down with my automatic seat what’s your number I’ll send ya a picture 🤣
I never open the bleeder screw. I open the master cylinder cover and it releases the pressure so I can compress the caliper cylinders with ease. I have a clamp but you can even use a screwdriver before removing the pads.
Old skool way i learned from my unc and never had a issue. I also let out a few drops from the bleeder screw after everyrhing is put back together just to be sure its fluid at the tip. Idk if thats unsafe or not but always had great stopping ability no issues. The C-clap way seems to be the easiest way to avoid air and wasting fluid and time just removing the reservoir cap upond applying pressure.
Works better if you have your hose go up into a loop and then down into the bottle. It'll ensure fluid is at the bleeder nipple so no air is sucked back in when you let off the pedal to pump again.
I rigged an air line to an old master cylinder cap, then put a cheap Harbor Freight regulator/filter on the line, then set it at 20psi and put continuous 20psi shop air into it, then just go around to each corner. No pumping. The suck back from a bottle method can fail you if there is air leaking in at the bleeder screw threads.
And watch out for air coming in through the threads on the bleeder valve, happens a lot, you'll know when you go through a whole bottle of fluid and still see bubbles in the tubing. I personally use some thread tape on the bleeder valve being extremely careful NOT to get any tape low enough to get any into the caliper itself, keep the tape high on the threads. I know most people will freak out about it this, but it will be OK if the tape does not enter the caliper.
In many cars you can place the bottle of brake fluid upside down on the reservoirs and it wil keep the reservoirs full while bleeding all the wheels until clean fluid is visible at each wheel...
Fill the bottle 1/4 way with brake fluid and pump the peddle slowly as not to aerate the fluid in the bottle and then when you release a paddle, you’re sucking bubbles back into it do it real slow so you don’t call bubbles in the bottle and that will suck fluid back in
Yeah something I've been doing for over 40 years is bleeding brakes by myself it works even better if you can hang the bottle up taller than the caliper wheel cylinder that you're bleeding because then the air will travel up the hose and get into The Jug and you'll pull straight fluid back it works a lot faster that way you have to seal it off just make sure it's in the fluid
I just use a giant syringe hooked up to the nipple. On cars with high mileage and little maintenance, you can quickly regret pushing the piston beyond it's normal working area. If I'm in the workshop I just used the companies vacuum bleeding equipment.
Pump the last 3 or 4 holding pedal for 10 20 seconds each time. Allows the air to escape the hose into the bottle. Otherwise you may trap a bubble that just travles up and down the hose possibly getting sucked back into the calipers when you release the pedal for the last time.
I think this is my problem, I'll try it tomorrow, cause when i press the brakes, the fluid is trying to go come out from the caliper but then it's like getting blocked by air idk how to explain but it sucks the fluid like going back and forth and air inbetween
When bleeding go to the farthest tire from the master cylinder so the back right back left front right front left when master cylinder is nearest to front left. If you bleed one front brake you will only have that break you will not have the other three
I drove 2 hours one time to show a friend this trick he hardly speaks English so I was unable to explain over the phone he felt really dumb when it one took 5 min
Gravity bleeding does a lot to if I change a line or caliber wheel cylinder whatever brake related that has fluid going threw it I gravity bleed it first then I’ll have somebody pump and and hold the brakes it makes bleeding go way faster
Except you can actually get air around the threads of that bleeder... It may be better than nothing at all but it's still not complete... I like the pressurized supply up top where all you have to do is crack the bleeders it's basically a bug sprayer full of brake fluid with an adapter that seals to your master cylinder reservoir... Pressure it up and you don't have to work the pedal unless you have abs then you need a computer to put the ABS module in bleed mode...
Nah. You should bleed every 3 years. Modern brakes often last 70k+ miles though. Unless you’re driving like crazy every year, unlikely you’ll burn through brakes that quickly.
Forgot the bit where you kick the bottle of old fluid over 😂
This guy knows
every single god damn time
😭
Usually happens when I try disconnecting the hose from the caliper sometimes it tips the bottle over
Or ya pump a lil too much/hard and the bottle gets way to full because your rushing the last tire🤣
Instructions unclear. Filled my break lines with bottled water.
lol
😂 fucking gold
*Breaks
What a genius*
Hey, that's better than water straight from the tap. I think. 😂😂😂
Good one ,
As a solo mechanic on my own shit you earned a sub with this tip. I work on everything by myself so not needing someone else to bleed my brakes makes my life easier
Try to find a spot to keep the bottle higher up. Air bubbles don't like going down less pumping
Don't use water. Use break fluid. No need for water in a break line.
Just buy a brake bleeder tool and avoid all the nonsense. Mine was like $20-$25.
@@user-yx5ry9rj3zmay have to ! First time ever going to be changing my rotors and caliper as well as brake pads
@@SeattleRoynobody said water
I've done this for 20 years, I can bleed all 4 wheels by myself. I can't seem to teach others though, they use a hose that fits too loosely or they don't fill the resi, or they don't know how to just barely open the bleeder so the fluid doesn't flow right back. Oh well, they can keep doing the "are you pumping?, Did you hold it? Did the pedal hit the floor?" method for as long as they like.... PS: Gatorade bottles work perfect.
I just did it solo today, and I have made the mistake at the last caliper, that I pumped until the reservoir got empty, and pumped air into the system😖😖 I had enough already (doing it wheel-by-wheel, and with only 1 jack), so I overlooked it xd But anyway when I will be able to use our pit, I won’t have to take the wheels off, so no problem
Out of all the videos that I watched this is the easiest to understand. I’m pretty well explained.. Thank You 🙏
The techs out there talking about air thru the threads on the bleeder screw don't seem to learn. Just crack the bleeder a quarter turn, no need to go 4 turns. Also, if you put a dab of brake fluid on the thread base it'll act like a gasket and keep air out.
There are two things that can go wrong with this type of bleeding. Number one is it can draw air back in around the threads on the bleeder not itself if it is a loose fit when backed out. And number two, never pump the pedal fast or all the way to the bottom. Fast will saturate your fluid with air bubbles suspended and the fluid that will eventually settle out but it takes forever and…, When you push that piston all the way down where it’s not used to going, you’re pushing the Chevron cup up in the front of the master cylinder in over a crud laden area that it’s never been over before in normal use. Inevitably, you’ll soon be replacing your master cylinder when the crud cuts the Chevron cup.
Cycle slowly and use a silicone hose that fits snug. And don't leave the bleeder so far open that it allows air to enter. Otherwise, this is the way!!
BULL SHIT, been using this technique for 40 plus years.
Dab some Vaseline where the tube fits around the bleeder nipple. @johnwade5747 thanks for the tip about pumping speed & depth.
Been doing like this for years. Also they make ,one man bleeder fittings, they have a one way check built in .if you don't have a pressure bleeder this works great.
Seen it at o’reilly was bewildered
Pressure bleeder for me. Also functions nicely for filling trans and gearbox fluid as well.
I wish I could use one but my compressor is too small
I got a brake bleeder from harbor freight. Put a vacuum on the valve, open it up, close it when the bleeder starts to lose pressure, pump it a few times to get the vacuum strong again and repeat. Holds constant pressure on the valve so air doesn’t get pushed in
You should keep the line above the bleeder so the bubbles go up and away.
I tried this once. Didn't work out, I towed my car to a shop and it serviced... After watching this, looks like my mistake was not "cracking" the bleeder. I full blown opened that shit. Lol guess I'll have to try it again.
Did you end up trying this again? 😂
@@whoknows5968 naw not yet lol
Thank you. This is JUST what ive been looking for. New sub.
Thanks! This is a good idea. 👍
Great idea!
I’m a certified brake guy or actually used to be years ago.
The certification only lasts 5 years.
Certification may be only 5 years, but the knowledge is forever. 👍
@@ronniecox109 I dunno man. I hadn't gotten laid in years. Went to bang my wife and ended up getting a finger in me bum and called her daddy. Had to re learn how it all went...
Yes sir it’s one of the best in most successful ways of doing it. I’ve been doing it for about 8 years now.
Been doin this since the seventies, raise bottle so bubbles go go bak in
Or get a longer hose and have it loop upward like and arch. That way the bubbles float to the top of the tube.
I was looking for this comment! Thank god someone said it😂not a deal breaker but I don’t think its a bad habit at all!
I do this and it works like a gem !!! The only diff is that i use fresh fluid for each wheel...
When doing this, be careful not to depress the pedal further than its normal range of travel. Doing so can damage the seals in the master cylinder.
Literally never had this happen why are you lying
@@contraband1543 just because it hasn’t happened to you doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen
Usually only a problem if its a really old master cylinder. I did this exact technique yesterday on a truck at work because all the hourly guys were too busy to help lol
@@contraband1543 Older seals are more prone to breaking .. just be careful and don't pump like a maniac and u should be good... you don't need to do leg presses on the pedal.
I never pump more than 2/3 pedal
Fantastic tip thank you buddy.
That's awesome thank you 🙏💯
Hell yeah thank you 💪
No doubt had to subscribe for this one was looking for a video on how to do it without fancy tools an gadgets 💪🏽💪🏽
Another way is to push the pedal and stick a broomstick between the pedal and the seat and leave it over night. The air bubbles will return to the master cylinder. No bleeding necessary and you get a solid brake.
Thanks for sharing! Does this really work?
@@jaredreck882 yep
Ima try this today if it doesn’t work when I wake up ima be upset 😭
@@bobbyberrier8175 make sure it’s pushing down. No push=no bleed
@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 should I leave the cap off or on I have a baseball bat pushing it all the way down with my automatic seat what’s your number I’ll send ya a picture 🤣
Easy with a proper brake bleeder no foot pumping needed
Been doing it this way for years. Works every time!
Thanks bro big time!
I never open the bleeder screw. I open the master cylinder cover and it releases the pressure so I can compress the caliper cylinders with ease. I have a clamp but you can even use a screwdriver before removing the pads.
Old skool way i learned from my unc and never had a issue. I also let out a few drops from the bleeder screw after everyrhing is put back together just to be sure its fluid at the tip. Idk if thats unsafe or not but always had great stopping ability no issues. The C-clap way seems to be the easiest way to avoid air and wasting fluid and time just removing the reservoir cap upond applying pressure.
Won't work if you've disconnected a line for any reason
That’s smart, I’ve only ever done the two person method with someone loosening and tightening the nipple as you pump.
Using this from now on
REALLY ?????
Just made my life so much easier 🤯
This helped. I’ve never seen this. Full the bottle with brake fluid people.
Works 100%....I do it using a longer hose so it bends upwards a little to trap the air
Wow that saying is right learn something new every day good video sir
Works better if you have your hose go up into a loop and then down into the bottle. It'll ensure fluid is at the bleeder nipple so no air is sucked back in when you let off the pedal to pump again.
Instead he recommends your hose suck back up old fluid into your brake lines 🤦♂️
I would never take this advice.
Naive
Bro never thought of this you are the man
BRO DEFINITELY STONED😂😂😂😂😂😂😅👍💯
Also start at the caliper furthest from the resovour and so on and so on.
Thanks for sharing
Start with the farthest brake from the reservoir and work your way to the nearest brake last
What the guy in the video mean is fill the water bottle with brake fluids not water.
I rigged an air line to an old master cylinder cap, then put a cheap Harbor Freight regulator/filter on the line, then set it at 20psi and put continuous 20psi shop air into it, then just go around to each corner. No pumping. The suck back from a bottle method can fail you if there is air leaking in at the bleeder screw threads.
Yes, nobody ever seems to mention the loose threads on the bleeder! Bravo
Bull shit.
I use this method it works great thanks for sharing
And watch out for air coming in through the threads on the bleeder valve, happens a lot, you'll know when you go through a whole bottle of fluid and still see bubbles in the tubing. I personally use some thread tape on the bleeder valve being extremely careful NOT to get any tape low enough to get any into the caliper itself, keep the tape high on the threads. I know most people will freak out about it this, but it will be OK if the tape does not enter the caliper.
I've had this happen also it's probably why people don't think this system works
As long as the Master Cylinder is good, you're ok.
My heart is big thank you very much
This man deserves a Nobel prize 🏆
In many cars you can place the bottle of brake fluid upside down on the reservoirs and it wil keep the reservoirs full while bleeding all the wheels until clean fluid is visible at each wheel...
That's the way to do it, it beats the old snowbrush between the seat and pedal
I did this today and bam it worked great 👍 Pump my lil heart out
Genius. Im stealing this. I dont see why it wouldnt work.
The way he says "pUmP yOuR LiTtLe HeArT oUt" made me chortle my little ass off
Helpful...👍🏻
My main concern is the roasted rotor u kept on it
First step, make sure water bottle is completely dry!! This method is ok if you can't find a helper, but it's not the best.
Fill the bottle 1/4 way with brake fluid and pump the peddle slowly as not to aerate the fluid in the bottle and then when you release a paddle, you’re sucking bubbles back into it do it real slow so you don’t call bubbles in the bottle and that will suck fluid back in
The dead eyes look at the end 😂
Yeah something I've been doing for over 40 years is bleeding brakes by myself it works even better if you can hang the bottle up taller than the caliper wheel cylinder that you're bleeding because then the air will travel up the hose and get into The Jug and you'll pull straight fluid back it works a lot faster that way you have to seal it off just make sure it's in the fluid
Nice bro was wondering how to do it by myself
Voice cracks… “And pump your little heart out” 😂😂😂😂
I just use a giant syringe hooked up to the nipple. On cars with high mileage and little maintenance, you can quickly regret pushing the piston beyond it's normal working area.
If I'm in the workshop I just used the companies vacuum bleeding equipment.
You need to have special wheel cylinder valves that doesn't allow the air back into the system.
Red Bone - nice.
Pump the last 3 or 4 holding pedal for 10 20 seconds each time. Allows the air to escape the hose into the bottle. Otherwise you may trap a bubble that just travles up and down the hose possibly getting sucked back into the calipers when you release the pedal for the last time.
I think this is my problem, I'll try it tomorrow, cause when i press the brakes, the fluid is trying to go come out from the caliper but then it's like getting blocked by air idk how to explain but it sucks the fluid like going back and forth and air inbetween
Thank you
When bleeding go to the farthest tire from the master cylinder so the back right back left front right front left when master cylinder is nearest to front left. If you bleed one front brake you will only have that break you will not have the other three
Did this to save my clutch in a church car park, actually went surprisingly well😂
This has always worked for me until today. Had to do the two man method.
Good idea bro
Nice
Good work
Im used to gravity bleed never seen this method but I bench bleed a master cylinder the same way so I imagine it would work.
Good tip
Awesome
I've never seem this, I'll try it out as I often have no one to help bleed and I don't have a reverse bleeder
Do u do this while the car idling or when the car is shut off 🤔
You can buy the little inexpensive kit at your local autoparts store, I've used it, bleeding brakes by yourself is easy
Skills 👍
I just used a $30 vacuum bleeder
I've used this method for well over 15 years.
Bought a vacuum bleeder about 3 months ago, and hated myself for waiting so long to get one.
So fill the water bottle with brake fluid?
yeah put new fluid in there then submerge the tube in it or else you risk introducing air into system
Use an old glass jar of pasta sauce or pickles. It’s heavy and it won’t tip over.
I drove 2 hours one time to show a friend this trick he hardly speaks English so I was unable to explain over the phone he felt really dumb when it one took 5 min
Changed my life when I was told this
Gravity bleeding does a lot to if I change a line or caliber wheel cylinder whatever brake related that has fluid going threw it I gravity bleed it first then I’ll have somebody pump and and hold the brakes it makes bleeding go way faster
Heinz vinegar glass bottle works great 👍🏽
I wouldn’t worry about bleeding my brakes if my brakes looked like that
Can i use 4 bottles? Instead of one?
Thats how i did my clutch master cylinder
Real mechanics are taking over
Can you make a full video of with? Thanks
Plot twist: Air rises not falls.
Always keep your bottle above the bleeder valve !
Except you can actually get air around the threads of that bleeder... It may be better than nothing at all but it's still not complete... I like the pressurized supply up top where all you have to do is crack the bleeders it's basically a bug sprayer full of brake fluid with an adapter that seals to your master cylinder reservoir... Pressure it up and you don't have to work the pedal unless you have abs then you need a computer to put the ABS module in bleed mode...
I’d say it’s time to do pads and rotors while you’re at it bud
Nah. You should bleed every 3 years. Modern brakes often last 70k+ miles though. Unless you’re driving like crazy every year, unlikely you’ll burn through brakes that quickly.
You want the tube to be higher so the air goes UP.
What brand of water do I use?
Do you do this to all four tires or just one ?
Did u close the resivor when u pumped the break
I've thought about doing that but I over complicate shit and I thought it can't be that simple.
If you pump repeatedly while the bleeder is opened, don't you risk sucking fluid/air back in through the bleeder from the bottle?
so you dont technically need to close and open the line after every pump of the brakes?
Wooow❤