Excellent...But I don't want any more competition on eBay raising the prices of all those old kits I'm bidding on...I'm joking of course...I actually use the raised panel lines to run the scriber along cutting out the use of tape...It's certainly a skill and employs a very light pressure on the first pass but with a bit of repetition you can get use to doing it without wobble and it speeds up the re-scribing raised panel lines issue considerably especially on some of those large 1/32 Revell kits I like to buy...Great video and happy modelling folks...Learning all the time!
I don't think you have to worry about competition as most modelers don't want to go through the hassle. Keep scoring those deals. Thanks for posting that additional method for folks to see and use. Takes a little practice to not get too aggressive on those first few passes. Thanks for the good feedback.
Can NOT thank you enough! This is EXACTLY what I wanted and needed for my Monograms! I've now decided I do not need to rescribe to get the look I want. B-24 just jumped to the build front. Thank you!
Glad it helped, Ken. I've got a B-24 to build myself in the near future. Look forward to seeing some progress pics of your Liberator. Feel free to share over on my facebook page at: facebook/flyingSmodels. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
The Dyno strip works well...but the sticky seems to loose after one application...I saw someone on a vid using Dyno but they stuck double sided tape to it to make it last longer...Working on the old Revell 1/32 P38 at mo...I'm re-scribing and it's taking weeks...arghhhh!
That's a true statement. I usually just don't worry about it since it's so inexpensive but that's s good tip. I'll give that a try. I don't envy you on the P-38. That would take forever. Good luck with that. I'm sure it's looking great!
Yep, it's possible depending on the brand of acrylic paint. I have not had any issued with Tamiya or AK Real acrylics. But I have heard that others have had issues, potentially with other acrylic brands. Thanks for the comment.
I built the B-29 Enola Gay model displayed in the Smithsonian exhibit on the Hiroshima bombing mounted in the National Air and Space Museum back in 1994-1996. For the model, I used the Monogram kit, but scribed all the panel lines. It was such a large aircraft and laborious process (plus the fact that it had to be a flawless natural metal finish) I decided that it had to be a model subject I was very excited about before would go through all that trouble and effort again.
Sounds like an awesome project. Would love to see some pics. You are right, that one would have required a flawless finish and I'm sure it was. Rescribing is definitely not on the top of my favorite modeling tasks.
BTW-are you aware that a number of years ago, Monogram attempted to revise its molds from raised to recessed panel lines? In an experiment, they took their 1/48 P-51B-C kit and converted it to recessed panel lines? However, they deemed it too expensive and dropped the effort.
Sine there doesn't seem to be a new tool 1/32 Hawker Typhoon coming any time soon, I've gone and bought the old Revell one at a model expo. Raised details everywhere. Maybe its time for me to practice this technique.
Yep, agree. It's one we desperately need but just doesn't look like it will happen. Would love it if Airfix would produce a downsized version of their 1/24 kit. The Revell kit would provide some great practice for sure.
I’ve subscribed to your site...watched a no# of your episodes... LUV THE AIRACOBRIA video...BUT I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO DO THIS... for me , This is the best technique I’ve seen... I’LL WATCH THIS A NO# of times THANKS. CHRIS from OHIO
I actually did use a 0.7mm lead pencil for the video. It is silvery until a flat coat is applied later. But if you want it darker, you can use a sharp colored pencil or buy colored lead for the mechanical pencil. Hope this helps.
@@jamessteale805 Since I spray with Matt paints, I don't apply the matt coat first. I wait and apply that after all of the weathering techniques have been applied.
Thanks for weighing in with your thoughts. It was primarily a video to show the basic technique and each modeler is able to then adjust to their personal preferences.
I've got several in my stash I'm going to build next. There's a trick to use streched sprue to replace the raised line on fuselage seams etc that works well in 1/48 and larger. We'll see on 1/72, you gave me inspiration to try again. Don't know I'll weather that heavily though I know that was for demo puropes.
I appreciate the feedback/comments. I have thought about trying the stretched sprue for raised panel line replacement but haven't played around with that yet. Yes, I did a little heavier weathering for demo purposes but it's fun to play around with.
I built the "Jaunty Jo" about ten years ago. I left the panel lines as is but a few days after joining the fuselage halves I had one of those "Oh Crap" moments when I discovered that I hadn't installed the front landing gear before joining the halves. After about an hour using curved and chisel blades the problem was solved and since then I now triple check instruction manuals before reaching for the glue : )
I have done that too many times to count. Too bad I still haven't learned the triple check approach...haha. I seem to always think I know better until that "oh crap" happens :) I want to do another 1/48 Monogram B-25 down the road just to see what can be done out of the box with such a venerable kit.
Hope the video helps with that project. Look forward to seeing some progress shots of your Komet. Feel free to share some pics over at my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels Best wishes!
Regarding the F-101 Voodoo kit shown early in this video...I have built several of these in my life, and IMO, it has a pretty good cockpit, and ejection seats. I'll admit, I feel a great deal of nostalgia when building the old revell / monogram kits from my childhood. They are great fun!
I totally agree, Wayne. Been thinking about doing another RF-101B. I've always loved that particular Monogram kit. Brings back really good memories from my childhood.
Hi! When you re-scribe do I need to sand away the raised features first? Or do I just leave them as the guides and they go away after the re-scribe and sanding?
Hey Rick. I've done both. If it's an old silver colored kit, like the Revell/Monogram F-89, you can sand away the raised detail and a "shadow" line will stay to give you a guide. But if it's grey or other colored plastic, if you do sand away the line, you will have to draw new ones. For that reason, I typically just use the old line as a guide and then sand them away after rescribing.
@@daveonbass79 I've built a few of those kits and haven't gone through the headache of rescribing them. You can see some of the results over on my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels. I think if you search under photos you can see one of the AC-130A models I built a few years back. It's a great kit. I really want to do the drone carrying version one of these days.
Excellent! I started modeling in 1959 (with my father's help). I have built many a Lindbergh, Monogram, Aurora, you name it. I have found myself staying away from most of those; as the newer ones came along. Very refreshing viewpoint and good to see it in action.
Thanks. I have started going back to them as I'm older as it helps me reconnect to the whole reason for modeling. The fun I had as a kid when we all seemed far less about panels being in the exact right spot and such. I've found that for me, this helps make modeling fun again :)
That's a little trickier. You can used really fine stretched sprue or you can tape both sides of the line and build it back up with filler and then remove the tape and blend the line back in. Most times, I just scribe the lost lines or represent them with pre/post shading techniques. Hope this helps.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks, I am going to try this technique. It was just too many times I was loosing the raised details after joining fuselage halves so I had to rescirbe majority of the panel lines on the fuselage... and then my AMS was forcing to rescribe the whole model to unify the look of the model...
@@alexx86hater I hear you, the curse of the AMS...haha. If you find another techniques that work better while you are trying out options, please do share. I'm with you in that there are times when you just need to replace a couple of panel lines and don't want to rescribe the whole model. Thank you!
Excellent, I'm glad you don't have any issues with them. Some folks don't like them and prefer to rescribe. The "beauty" of the hobby in that we all build the way we like and enjoy! Cheers!
I find that raised panel lines look best on metal finish aircrafts. The silver makes a small crisp shadow that looks acceptable. With many camouflage colours, that shadow is softer, so the raised part is more emphasized, and also less crisp-looking. For some reason, brownish Olive drab colours are especially bad for raised lines, unless heavily weathered. Also, a large model is much more tolerant of raised lines than a small fighter, for obvious reasons. The 47 year old Monogram B-17G is, in addition, much more accurate, in numerous respects, compared to the recent HK models, especially with AM canopy and brass guns, so combining all this there is really no contest in that particular case: The new Asian engraved lines kit is vastly, vastly inferior. In fact, I looked hard, and could not find a single part of that kit that could enhance the older model... Not even the props or cowlings.
I tend to agree. While I do typically like recessed panel lines, many of the older Monogram kits with their accurate raised details are hard to beat. Thank you for taking the time to provide this insight.
For raised panel lines on old Tamiya/Revell kits, I like to prime black or dark grey, then pre-shade, base, and seal. Once dry, I lightly sand the raised surfaces to reveal the primer underneath. It essentially mimics a panel line wash. Of course, if the base is dark, I'll reverse tone and prime light. I generally favor more subdued panel lines, and sanding grants a modicum of control (using 2000-6000 grit paper). It also results in a nice, smooth surface since I rarely seem capable of varnishing smoothly. ;-)
Thanks, Darrell. I have tried that technique in the past (way past) but didn't get quite the results that I was hoping for. That being said, I might need to give it another shot. Definitely would produce a more subdued look and that's something that a lot of modelers prefer. Appreciate you sharing this.
@@FlyingSModels My airbrushing is not on point as yours, so I have improvise with other methods. For now, at least. Getting better but it doesn't happen overnight.
You can but it doesn't clean out the panel line as well. It leaves raised edges on either side that need to be sanded down. I've found that the pin vise with the straight pin works a whole lot better. Good luck and have fun!
Thank you for that feedback. I'm glad that the video was helpful. The good thing about this community is the information that is shared with the comments. Thanks again.
Thank you. That was great. I am scribing my first older model kit. Monogram P47D. Started with a stabilizer and thought omg gonna take forever. But took my time used the tape needle method and boom getting pretty good
Excellent. I'm glad it worked out. Patience is the most important part of the task. It's easy to get in a hurry and rush it and end up with less than desired results. Look forward to seeing some of your progress. Feel free to share some pics over on my facebook page. Happy Modeling!!
That will work on my 1/48th scale C130 J I have had in my stash for about twenty years, bext regards from Australia, keep safe and well in these crazy times.
Just a suggestion for a addendum to this video, we pretty much know how to restore engraved panel lines maybe you can show us your tips on restoring raised panel lines. ( I have a 1/72 Heller MD 450 I’ve been seesawing on rescribing or not ), because I can wait till hell freezes over before a 1/48 kit of this comes out. Just a thought love the channel
Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. This one was a little less above engraving lines as it was about comparing finishing techniques fro engraved versus raised lines. I did throw in the scribing approach just for any newbies who watched. But that' a great idea about restoring raised detail. I probably should have added that to this video. Like you said, a great thing for an addendum. Appreciate the feedback and support! All the best!
I do enjoy building the old kits from the 60s and 70s. I think they are still quite good and often I do a little extra scratch-built detail, to bring them up to modern standards. Excellent video! 👍
I have IPMS National winners from old Monogram raised panel line kits. They are all great models and when executed correctly, they can go up against any model out there. I have stacks of them and love to just sit and look at them.
Hrmmm I’m torn. I just picked up my first 72 scale spit from revell and it has raised panels all over it. Gotta decide to mill them or just paint it as is.
Thanks, Robert. I appreciate the good words and glad that you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps. I'm using some of the techniques on my next video build now (an old Revell A-6 Intruder).
Unless you get close, you'd never notice the difference between raised and recessed panel lines. Does RB have a US distributor? I'd like to add a riveting tool to my workshop.
Yep, the finishes are pretty close. As far as the RB tool, I'm not sure I've seen a US distributor. I think I ordered mine through the link I added in the description. It's a really nice tool and comes with several different wheel sizes.
Thanks for this video. I have an old Tamiya 1/48 A10 Warthog to build. It's covered in raised panel lines, although the overall shape is really good. Your advice is much appreciated.
Glad it helped. Would love to see what you do with that Tamiya A-10. Please feel free to share some pics over at my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels. Cheers!
When I was a teen, I used to spray the panel lines with a darker or lighter color then paint the model. After I would lightly sand the raised panel lines in the direction of air flow exposing the paint beneath. I like your oil affect but what do you do when you sand off the raised panel lines after filling gaps or seams?
Yep, that's another approach. Some guys paint the model black and then paint a couple coats of gloss. Then the add the top colors and after that, they sand the top color to reveal the black panel lines. With regards to sanding the raised lines off, I usually either scribe new ones or add them back with a pen or paint if I get lazy :)
Geat video as usual, i get the feeling that raised panel lines are now being looked at with new eyes by modellers , Im a big fan of Paul Budzik, he takes a very different approach to panel lines , thanks for the videos .
Yes, indeed. I too am a fan of Paul's and he does take a completely different approach. A buddy of mine does as well and says he never saw panel lines on the planes he flew in so he doesn't even mess with trying to highlight them in any way. That's the beauty of the hobby. We can all build the way we want in the style that makes us happy and have fun. Appreciate the good feedback.
I just want to say thanks for the raised panel line video will really help with the old kits. I have a lot of old kits. I really like the chanel it helps alot.
Excellent, I am glad to be able to help. If you ever need anything, just leave a comment here or contact me through the contact section over at: flyingsmodels.square.site/
Excellent video... This has helped me to understand the process of imbellishing the panel lines so that they look closer to the real thing. I really appreciate your hard work in helping the older modelers like myself figure out how to deal with raised panel lines...
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a little confused by the comment about not showing how I dealt with raised panel lines. That's in there too and you can see the comparison. I did not talk about how to put raised detail back on after it is lost due to sanding. Maybe this is what you were asking about??
Yep, you are right but it's a balance between scale and the visual effect that each modeler desires to achieve in their builds, I guess. That's the good thing about the hobby....there's room for all styles. Appreciate the feedback!
Well monogram had always +mold panel line requring reengraves. and old kit from revell italrei had +mold also when they fabricate it near late 80's. It need to confirm panel lines before buying them
If they had tried to replicate the real aircraft it would have been prohibitively expensive to make molds that showed airplanes with the actual lap seam type of lines that actual aircraft predominantly have, airliners particularly :)
@@FlyingSModels had a 747 we were doing sheetmetal work on 1989 JFK at Pan Am we had lap seams to refurbish/remove corrosion, they got peeled back a foot or so to redo the new skins we were installing, lap seams are predominant style of skin placement :)
@@teenagerinsac Yep, my grandfather was a sheet metal worker on the flight line and Eglin AFB and used to tell me stories of redoing aircraft skin panels post flight.
You are such an inspiration - these are the kits I, too, grew up building, and learned a lot of my early skills from material included in the kits and publications featuring the work of Shepard Paine - the (famous) B17G " In The Pink"... the P61 with the scratch built port - side engine maintenance 'Pacific' diorama... Again, you bring forth your unparalleled passion and skill base in showing today's generation of perfection seeking builder's the pure joy and the inner most limits of pure model - making fun that is found in not only kits from another era which are so related to the state of the art... and demonstrate that one is only limited by imagination... in tooling, kit choice and subject matter to render true works of pride and commitment to fun that is the heart of what building a kit REALLY means... again, bravo, you have your finger on the pulse of what makes this hobby free-form and subjective only to one's own personality. Please keep it coming, this is truly heart warming stuff and your style is just a thing of beauty and wonder... my daughter's think you rock :)
Thank you , Christian. I really appreciate the feedback and good words. To me, with the advent of computer aided design kits, that the joy of "old school" modeling is becoming a thing of the past. I totally agree with you sentiment in that the kits we grew up with still provide a good bit of inspiration and nostalgia. So many modelers these days are more concerned about exact fit than they are just simply enjoying the "joys" of that old school modeling experience. Tell your daughters hello for me :)
@@FlyingSModels You are spot on in about this exact - fit thing - I guess that is the underlying thing that I was trying to articulate - I spent 2 years putting the Revell 1/72 Flower Class Corvette together - this is a kit that challenged me at EVERY stage - its practically scratch - built from above deck and I kit bashed a few Airfix kits for stuff - but mate, what a joy it was when I finished it... and still just makes me grin from ear to ear every time I look at it!!! :) My daughter's are chuffed that you reply and acknowledge their affection for you! Please keep it coming - this forum and your subscribers and others who watch your content need you to keep it coming :) As always, kind regards from Me, Charlotte (Lotty), Desirea and Gina!!!
And this is really what modeling and this channel is all about...helping to inspire modelers to get back to the "joy" of modeling, finish some unfinished projects, and be proud of the results. And making connections with a group that enjoys modeling is the best part of it all. Al the best, Chad.
A true master! Thank you for sharing your techniques, your results are incredible. Can't wait for your next video...this channel just keeps getting better and better.
Another way to exploit raised detail on plane models is to use preshading and Future floor polish. Let's say you want a natural metal finish on a raised detail model. Simply spray all panel lines and raised rivets with flat black paint. When it's dry, apply several coats of Future on the painted raised detail. Let each coat dry, and apply at least 4-5 coats. Let the Future fully cure for several days to make sure the moisture is wicked out of the Future and it becomes like a clear shell. Then apply your metal paint. But a word of warning: do NOT use ALCLAD paint for this technique. ALCLAD is excellent, but because it is mixed with acetone, it has excellent adhesion properties on styrene plastic and will not be easily removed in the next step. Use Model Master or some acrylic metal paint instead. When your metal layer dries, then carefully and lightly sand the entire surface of the plane with a 3200-grit sanding pad to remove the metal paint to reveal the black paint that is now protected by coats of Future. The raised detail will pop almost immediately. It's almost too good to be true, but it works. The key is to make sure you apply plenty of Future to keep from sanding the black paint off. This technique can also work for models painted in darker colors that would benefit from having raised detail show through. For all black planes, like the Black Widow, or the A-26 Invader, simply reverse the process and paint all the raised detail with ALCLAD metal paint. Now is the time you want a metal paint that can withstand being abraded. For extra protection, you can also lay on several coats of Future. When your dark colors are fully dry, take your 3200-grit pad and carefully scuff the raised details to remove the dark paint and reveal the perfect, metal painted details. Depending on the amount of weathering you want to show, you could paint the whole model with metal paint and gloss it with Future, then paint it black, let dry and and then scuff off paint to replicate extensive pitting or paint wear.
Excellent suggestions and a very well written tutorial. I have done this in the past but with limited success as I likely didn't have a thick enough clear coat to protect the model surface. I think I will have to try it again and see how it works for something like a 1/48 Revell F-89. I really don't want to rescribe that one...haha. Excellent instructions and I really appreciate you sharing this with the community here. All the best, Chad.
@@FlyingSModels Believe it or not, I will some day build that Revell F-89 using the techniques I've explained. It begs for a metal finish with black panel lines. I wrote an article for FineScale Modeler many moons ago on how to weather an A-26. The key is the Future. It needs to be pretty thick. If you use it on your floors, you know the spigot always gets clogged up and it won't squirt because it's crusted over. Thats the kind of shell you want on your preshaded panel lines. As long as you don't use 80-grit sandpaper, my techniques will float your boat.
@@stukaman1162 Good to know and I appreciate the advice. I look forward to seeing that F-89 down the road. Please keep me posted. Now where did I put that bottle of Future :)
THANK YOU! I'm re-entering the hobby, and I've got a backlog of these classic kits from the 80s. Wasn't sure how I was going to tackle, so I really appreciate your tips!
Great Vid...I have a Hasagawa F-4C Phantom kit I have been sitting on trying to figure out how to deal with the raised panel lines and after watching this vid it gave me the green light in my head to pull it out and build it next....
Your raised panel line technique is great! Your effects are are a bit overdone for illustrative purposes, but I get the idea. Thanks for giving me hope in tackling my older kits!
Thank you, Steven. I appreciate that and I'm glad that the video might give you some inspiration for taking on some of those older kits. I did overdo the technique for the purpose of illustration but it is easily adapted to whatever your needs/or preferences are. Happy Modeling!
Great video. :) Now, I don´t have that many kits I want to go back to - I built some Airfix and Matchbox as a kid, but there are new, modern kits for most of those.. I rather build them. I don´t have the attention span for this heroic job..! lol But I love watching it!
Despite the photos that begin your video, the many, many military aircraft I've seen in person never had panel lines. I firmly believe this is a "make it look cool" modelers' fiction. Where did this idea come from that model airplanes should have obvious and clearly delineated panel lines? I thought the point was to make a realistic model. I don't expect to convince anyone. Just making an observation from the perspective of several decades of building plastic model kits.
Thanks for your observation, Mark. I'd find it hard to believe that any real airplane didn't have panel lines. That would be quite a feat of engineering to create an airplane without individual panel lines...haha. I know what you mean, though, sometimes it's hard to actually see them. The great thing about model building is that modelers can build in a way that they like and find enjoyable. To me, modeling is just as much about art as any of the other attributes. And realism is hard to define in my book, as we all see things a little different. I have some modeling buddies that think accentuating panel lines is heresy and hey, that's their purgative. To me, there's plenty of room in the hobby world for all kinds of styles and I for one, appreciate all of them. Again, really appreciate the feedback and point of view. And if you would like to share some of your work, I always find inspiration in the works of all modelers. Feel free to share them over on my facebook page @ facebook/flyingSmodels. Others would no doubt be inspired as well! Happy Modeling!
@@FlyingSModels I understand the want to make an airplane(or any military) model look exactly like it's real life counterpart, but one thing I have never understood is why some people feel it is the ONLY way to do a model. I like making f-14 Tomcats. I have made several of them and painting EVERY SINGLE ONE some form of grey, get's not only boring to me, but no creativity or imagination goes into it. When i was very young, i was coloring in a coloring book along with my teacher and early on I was obsessed with perfection(still kind of am), not only staying in the lines but doing colors that are close to real. I was coloring a tiger orange and black and my teacher started coloring the same tiger BLUE! I was intrigued by the "outrageous" and unrealistic color but still said "that's not real. You're not supposed to do that." She taught me a valuable lesson that day, that what is appealing is in the eye of the beholder and to stretch the mind to think about coloring in a creative and imaginative way can be much more fun than sticking to reality. I know this is going to make some people's head explode(i'm not painting models to win any awards) but i am building the Top Gun Revell 1:48 Maverick F-14 right now and I want to paint the body a kind of yellow with very pronounced, very contrasted, solid black panel lines but with some smudging so the yellow looks a little darker in some areas. I have never panel lined before and I am kind of using this model as an experiment, while i soak in every youtube video on how to do panel lines, and I am simply wanting to use my 2 favorite colors, yellow and black. I know this will look absolutely nothing like the top gun movie planes(or any Tomcat for that matter) and possibly look ridiculous but I don't care. I build models for MY enjoyment and what I want. I am also thinking of painting the body black with fluorescent yellow panel lines. The latter tears at so many brains because "panel line accenting is to show natural wear and grime!" Now if i bought a Tamiya Tomcat that was over 100$, I might think differently but for 25 bucks, i'm gonna play around. I just bought a Bandai Star Wars AT-ST kit for 7 bucks and if I want it to be purple and gold then I'm gonna do it that way and either smile or say that looks horrible and buy another one for 7 bucks. Building, gluing, sanding, puttying, etc a model is the Zen for me, not needing to be perfect in respect to real life. I also bought the transformers optimus prime and bumblebee model kits and I do feel i need to make them the exact colors as the 80's cartoon because that's what i grew up liking. So yeah, in so many words, I agree with you that it's the builder's prerogative and anyone who complains about another person's lack of perfection to real life or the "point" of building a model is to be realistic, could use some much needed imagination in their life and needs to just keep opinions like those to themselves. This a rant that's been a long time coming after hearing and reading so many peoples' negative comments on how someone is doing it WRONG because it's not "realistic." Sorry it's so long but i had to get that off my chest and i guess i chose this year old video and comment to vent finally. by the way, thanks for the video, i learned a lot. Subscribed and looking forward to your other videos.
@@piperthirtytwo Hey Matthew, thanks for the sub and the good thoughts. I agree with you in that modelers should just have fun and do whatever they want. I like the idea of a yellow F-14. In fact, it might look really cool and reminiscent of the Blue Angel Beetle Bomb. Keep modeling the way you want. It's the only way to fly!
@@FlyingSModels Oh my! I have never heard of the Beetle Bomb before! After seeing pictures of it I want to build one right now! Thanks for the reply and the insight!
Except when there is no new kit available or you want to get some experience with scratch building or kit bashing. Even out of the box, these old kits can be a blast and to me, are still worth the time and effort. Take for example, this 1/48 Monogram EA-6A I recently completed. Had a fantastic time building it: ruclips.net/video/kna1oak6wls/видео.html
You're just putting lipstick on a pig. Those old kits lack so much detail and quality everywhere else that they just aren't worth the effort. After you spend all those hours, sure, it will look a LITTLE BIT better, but you still end up with a mediocre model at best. You're better off putting all that extra time you waste on a good model that already comes with recessed lines and are loaded with detail instead.
On one hand, I can understand and maybe even agree with your sentiments. Many of the newer models definitely have better engineering and more detail. On the other hand, there are several reasons why building some of the older kits is the way to go. First, in some cases, there are no newer kits. Take for instance, the old Monogram F-102 or B-26. Second, some of the newer kits are worse than the older ones. I think the Kitty Hawk vs. Monogram F-101 would fall into this category. Lastly, some of us old modelers just like to experience of building a kit that we grew up with. To me, it helps to keep me connected with why I started building models in the first place. But I certainly appreciate your perspective and am thankful we live in a time where there so many choices for modelers to decide which route works best for them. Thank you for the comments.
@@FlyingSModels I understand about there being no new kits available for many airplanes/cars etc., so you go with what you already have and what's paid for. That's pretty much the case when it comes to drag racing kits, such as the old 1/16 Revelle funny cars, and dragsters. I'd like to see some new kits get made, but it doesn't look like that will happen. They are missing a lot of detail, but at least they don't have raised panel lines to deal with..LOL ! One MAJOR drawback on the new kits though....$$$$$$$$ !
@@meauxjeaux431 That is so true. It's all a trade off, in my opinion and I hope the manufacturers will continue to release tons of new kits. But like I said, just because it's old doesn't mean it's not worthy of some "building love". Happy Modeling to you!
FlyingSModels hello Chad I hope you’re doing well, I need to ask you I used to brush paint my models using Humbrol enamel, now as I am going to use airbrush for the first time, I need to ask you is it important to use thin it before or thinner only used in acrylic paint?
@@infernumdk Most paints have to be thinned when airbrushing. There are a few paints on the market that come pre-thinned for airbrush use only and they typically state that on the bottles. But nearly all the paints I use, like Tamiay and AK Real Colors have to be thinned. Most enamels have to be thinned as well but I stopped using those many years ago. Hope this helps.
Excellent...But I don't want any more competition on eBay raising the prices of all those old kits I'm bidding on...I'm joking of course...I actually use the raised panel lines to run the scriber along cutting out the use of tape...It's certainly a skill and employs a very light pressure on the first pass but with a bit of repetition you can get use to doing it without wobble and it speeds up the re-scribing raised panel lines issue considerably especially on some of those large 1/32 Revell kits I like to buy...Great video and happy modelling folks...Learning all the time!
I don't think you have to worry about competition as most modelers don't want to go through the hassle. Keep scoring those deals. Thanks for posting that additional method for folks to see and use. Takes a little practice to not get too aggressive on those first few passes. Thanks for the good feedback.
OH... I really enjoy building models...
50 years building , and I’m still LEARNING
You and me both. Just keep learning and enjoying the journey.
Can NOT thank you enough! This is EXACTLY what I wanted and needed for my Monograms! I've now decided I do not need to rescribe to get the look I want. B-24 just jumped to the build front. Thank you!
Glad it helped, Ken. I've got a B-24 to build myself in the near future. Look forward to seeing some progress pics of your Liberator. Feel free to share over on my facebook page at: facebook/flyingSmodels. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
The Dyno strip works well...but the sticky seems to loose after one application...I saw someone on a vid using Dyno but they stuck double sided tape to it to make it last longer...Working on the old Revell 1/32 P38 at mo...I'm re-scribing and it's taking weeks...arghhhh!
That's a true statement. I usually just don't worry about it since it's so inexpensive but that's s good tip. I'll give that a try. I don't envy you on the P-38. That would take forever. Good luck with that. I'm sure it's looking great!
I found my Enola Gay photos-scanned them. Don’t see where I can attach them, however…
Feel free to share on my Facebook page or messenger, if you have it. Or you can contact me thru the website and we can set up an email link. Thx
Using white/mineral spirits over the bare true acrilyc paints (water based) can remove the paint from the model in some cases... Just a heads up.
Yep, it's possible depending on the brand of acrylic paint. I have not had any issued with Tamiya or AK Real acrylics. But I have heard that others have had issues, potentially with other acrylic brands. Thanks for the comment.
I built the B-29 Enola Gay model displayed in the Smithsonian exhibit on the Hiroshima bombing mounted in the National Air and Space Museum back in 1994-1996. For the model, I used the Monogram kit, but scribed all the panel lines. It was such a large aircraft and laborious process (plus the fact that it had to be a flawless natural metal finish) I decided that it had to be a model subject I was very excited about before would go through all that trouble and effort again.
Sounds like an awesome project. Would love to see some pics. You are right, that one would have required a flawless finish and I'm sure it was. Rescribing is definitely not on the top of my favorite modeling tasks.
@@FlyingSModels AlI have are prints. It was way before digital. Let me see what I can do…
BTW-are you aware that a number of years ago, Monogram attempted to revise its molds from raised to recessed panel lines? In an experiment, they took their 1/48 P-51B-C kit and converted it to recessed panel lines? However, they deemed it too expensive and dropped the effort.
Good video with some really useful stuff 👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks. Hope it helps some.
What about the raised lines that have to stay, and are lost after sanding, how do we make them show again?
I usually rescribe them but you can also replace them with very fine styrene rod or some fine stretched sprue.
Don't dig the skunk stripes, chum.
Thanks for the input. Skunk stripes are only for illustrations purposes. If they are too stinky, they are easily toned down.
Sine there doesn't seem to be a new tool 1/32 Hawker Typhoon coming any time soon, I've gone and bought the old Revell one at a model expo. Raised details everywhere. Maybe its time for me to practice this technique.
Yep, agree. It's one we desperately need but just doesn't look like it will happen. Would love it if Airfix would produce a downsized version of their 1/24 kit. The Revell kit would provide some great practice for sure.
@@FlyingSModels Do Airfix even make 1/32 these days? A Tamiya 1/32 Hawker Typhoon would be incredible.
I’ve subscribed to your site...watched a no#
of your episodes... LUV THE AIRACOBRIA
video...BUT I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO DO THIS... for me , This is the best technique I’ve seen... I’LL WATCH THIS A NO# of times
THANKS. CHRIS from OHIO
Thanks, Chris. Appreciate the feedback and the sub. I hope that the videos continue to be helpful. Let me know if you need anything down the road.
File them off and scribe new ones. It's the only way to be sure.
Yep but for some folks, the thought of resrcibing everything is quite daunting.
"There are some really great classic kits out there" (shows Monogram box art)
Preach on, brother.
There sure are. Love em all. Thanks for the feedback!
What pencil did you use? Using a regular BIC mechanical 0.7mm pencil gives a silvery finish
I actually did use a 0.7mm lead pencil for the video. It is silvery until a flat coat is applied later. But if you want it darker, you can use a sharp colored pencil or buy colored lead for the mechanical pencil. Hope this helps.
@@FlyingSModels it does thank you! I originally thought I had to apply the Matt coat first, not over it again
@@jamessteale805 Since I spray with Matt paints, I don't apply the matt coat first. I wait and apply that after all of the weathering techniques have been applied.
panel line is too big for model scale
Thanks for weighing in with your thoughts. It was primarily a video to show the basic technique and each modeler is able to then adjust to their personal preferences.
I've got several in my stash I'm going to build next. There's a trick to use streched sprue to replace the raised line on fuselage seams etc that works well in 1/48 and larger. We'll see on 1/72, you gave me inspiration to try again. Don't know I'll weather that heavily though I know that was for demo puropes.
I appreciate the feedback/comments. I have thought about trying the stretched sprue for raised panel line replacement but haven't played around with that yet. Yes, I did a little heavier weathering for demo purposes but it's fun to play around with.
It's nice work. Also it's incredibly politely work. Great jobs.
Thanks! Appreciate the good feedback!
I built the "Jaunty Jo" about ten years ago. I left the panel lines as is but a few days after joining the fuselage halves I had one of those "Oh Crap" moments when I discovered that I hadn't installed the front landing gear before joining the halves. After about an hour using curved and chisel blades the problem was solved and since then I now triple check instruction manuals before reaching for the glue : )
I have done that too many times to count. Too bad I still haven't learned the triple check approach...haha. I seem to always think I know better until that "oh crap" happens :) I want to do another 1/48 Monogram B-25 down the road just to see what can be done out of the box with such a venerable kit.
I've been thinking about how to tackle the hasegawa 1/32 Komet in my stash, I think I might go the ak pencil and oils route. Cheers
Hope the video helps with that project. Look forward to seeing some progress shots of your Komet. Feel free to share some pics over at my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels Best wishes!
Regarding the F-101 Voodoo kit shown early in this video...I have built several of these in my life, and IMO, it has a pretty good cockpit, and ejection seats. I'll admit, I feel a great deal of nostalgia when building the old revell / monogram kits from my childhood. They are great fun!
I totally agree, Wayne. Been thinking about doing another RF-101B. I've always loved that particular Monogram kit. Brings back really good memories from my childhood.
Hi! When you re-scribe do I need to sand away the raised features first? Or do I just leave them as the guides and they go away after the re-scribe and sanding?
Hey Rick. I've done both. If it's an old silver colored kit, like the Revell/Monogram F-89, you can sand away the raised detail and a "shadow" line will stay to give you a guide. But if it's grey or other colored plastic, if you do sand away the line, you will have to draw new ones. For that reason, I typically just use the old line as a guide and then sand them away after rescribing.
@@FlyingSModels thanks...this was exactly what I was wondering.
@@daveonbass79 Excellent. Glad it helped.
@@FlyingSModels i literally just got an old Testors 1/48 C-130 and I instantly got scared by the raised panel lines.
@@daveonbass79 I've built a few of those kits and haven't gone through the headache of rescribing them. You can see some of the results over on my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels. I think if you search under photos you can see one of the AC-130A models I built a few years back. It's a great kit. I really want to do the drone carrying version one of these days.
Excellent! I started modeling in 1959 (with my father's help). I have built many a Lindbergh, Monogram, Aurora, you name it. I have found myself staying away from most of those; as the newer ones came along. Very refreshing viewpoint and good to see it in action.
Thanks. I have started going back to them as I'm older as it helps me reconnect to the whole reason for modeling. The fun I had as a kid when we all seemed far less about panels being in the exact right spot and such. I've found that for me, this helps make modeling fun again :)
Your channel is one of the best and your explaining the techniques is very informative. Thank you
Appreciate the feedback and support. I'm glad that you are finding the videos helpful and hopefully enjoyable.
Great video, funtastic effect and very good explain the tecnic. Thanks for sharing, Greetings from Portugal.😉
Thank you for that positive feedback. I am glad you liked the video. Greeting to you as well!
How do you restore raised panel line if it got damaged by sanding or gap filling?
That's a little trickier. You can used really fine stretched sprue or you can tape both sides of the line and build it back up with filler and then remove the tape and blend the line back in. Most times, I just scribe the lost lines or represent them with pre/post shading techniques. Hope this helps.
@@FlyingSModels Thanks, I am going to try this technique. It was just too many times I was loosing the raised details after joining fuselage halves so I had to rescirbe majority of the panel lines on the fuselage... and then my AMS was forcing to rescribe the whole model to unify the look of the model...
@@alexx86hater I hear you, the curse of the AMS...haha. If you find another techniques that work better while you are trying out options, please do share. I'm with you in that there are times when you just need to replace a couple of panel lines and don't want to rescribe the whole model. Thank you!
I've never had a problem with raised panel lines, I just deal with them and it comes out great.
Excellent, I'm glad you don't have any issues with them. Some folks don't like them and prefer to rescribe. The "beauty" of the hobby in that we all build the way we like and enjoy! Cheers!
@@FlyingSModels exactly, cheers friend.
Another Awesome "How To" thank you
Thank you Zombie Creations! Hope it helps out.
Awesome video. You explain the processes you use very well. I definitely learned a few things watching this. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Glad it helped and was informative. Appreciate you taking the time to provide some positive feedback.
You are a good teacher! Thanks for the lesson!
Thank you. Hope the videos are helpful.
I find that raised panel lines look best on metal finish aircrafts. The silver makes a small crisp shadow that looks acceptable. With many camouflage colours, that shadow is softer, so the raised part is more emphasized, and also less crisp-looking. For some reason, brownish Olive drab colours are especially bad for raised lines, unless heavily weathered. Also, a large model is much more tolerant of raised lines than a small fighter, for obvious reasons. The 47 year old Monogram B-17G is, in addition, much more accurate, in numerous respects, compared to the recent HK models, especially with AM canopy and brass guns, so combining all this there is really no contest in that particular case: The new Asian engraved lines kit is vastly, vastly inferior. In fact, I looked hard, and could not find a single part of that kit that could enhance the older model... Not even the props or cowlings.
I tend to agree. While I do typically like recessed panel lines, many of the older Monogram kits with their accurate raised details are hard to beat. Thank you for taking the time to provide this insight.
For raised panel lines on old Tamiya/Revell kits, I like to prime black or dark grey, then pre-shade, base, and seal. Once dry, I lightly sand the raised surfaces to reveal the primer underneath. It essentially mimics a panel line wash. Of course, if the base is dark, I'll reverse tone and prime light.
I generally favor more subdued panel lines, and sanding grants a modicum of control (using 2000-6000 grit paper). It also results in a nice, smooth surface since I rarely seem capable of varnishing smoothly. ;-)
Thanks, Darrell. I have tried that technique in the past (way past) but didn't get quite the results that I was hoping for. That being said, I might need to give it another shot. Definitely would produce a more subdued look and that's something that a lot of modelers prefer. Appreciate you sharing this.
@@FlyingSModels My airbrushing is not on point as yours, so I have improvise with other methods. For now, at least. Getting better but it doesn't happen overnight.
Practice makes perfect, right! Nothing good ever just happens over night.
@@FlyingSModels Oh, I dunno--I've had some lady friends who were _very_ good overnight. Hey-O!
@@darrellid Bu they weren't into plastic model airplanes, were they ;)
Thanks for sharing your techniques!!! Riveting… it gives so much more depth to a model, but it's just an annoying Task... :D
I have to agree with you there.
Nice!
Thanks!
Can I do this with a exacto knife?
You can but it doesn't clean out the panel line as well. It leaves raised edges on either side that need to be sanded down. I've found that the pin vise with the straight pin works a whole lot better. Good luck and have fun!
@@FlyingSModels ok I'll just buy a scraper
Good morning,
Thank you!
My grandson & I have watched an awful lot of YT…this is fanTAStic. AND the information in the comments is a Godsend.
Jim & AJ
Thank you for that feedback. I'm glad that the video was helpful. The good thing about this community is the information that is shared with the comments. Thanks again.
Thank you. That was great. I am scribing my first older model kit. Monogram P47D. Started with a stabilizer and thought omg gonna take forever. But took my time used the tape needle method and boom getting pretty good
Excellent. I'm glad it worked out. Patience is the most important part of the task. It's easy to get in a hurry and rush it and end up with less than desired results. Look forward to seeing some of your progress. Feel free to share some pics over on my facebook page. Happy Modeling!!
That will work on my 1/48th scale C130 J I have had in my stash for about twenty years, bext regards from Australia, keep safe and well in these crazy times.
Thanks, Les. Glad it will help revive a twenty year project from the "to do" list. Thanks for the well wishes and I hope the same for you. Cheers!
Just a suggestion for a addendum to this video, we pretty much know how to restore engraved panel lines maybe you can show us your tips on restoring raised panel lines. ( I have a 1/72 Heller MD 450 I’ve been seesawing on rescribing or not ), because I can wait till hell freezes over before a 1/48 kit of this comes out. Just a thought love the channel
Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. This one was a little less above engraving lines as it was about comparing finishing techniques fro engraved versus raised lines. I did throw in the scribing approach just for any newbies who watched. But that' a great idea about restoring raised detail. I probably should have added that to this video. Like you said, a great thing for an addendum. Appreciate the feedback and support! All the best!
Your Videos are amazing !!! not to mention your builds .... simply stunning
Thank you. I really appreciate that feedback. Just need to get some time to do some more.
I do enjoy building the old kits from the 60s and 70s. I think they are still quite good and often I do a little extra scratch-built detail, to bring them up to modern standards.
Excellent video! 👍
Something about the oldies that just makes modeling fun! Thanks for your kind words and happy modeling...and happy New Year too!
I have IPMS National winners from old Monogram raised panel line kits. They are all great models and when executed correctly, they can go up against any model out there. I have stacks of them and love to just sit and look at them.
For sure. I completely agree. Congrats on your winners!!
Hrmmm I’m torn. I just picked up my first 72 scale spit from revell and it has raised panels all over it. Gotta decide to mill them or just paint it as is.
It's always a tough call. All a matter of how much "quality" modeling time you want and need. Good luck!
Absolutely Brillant,,,thankyou so much my friend,,i reakky enjoyed this vid,,thumbs all the way
Thanks, Robert. I appreciate the good words and glad that you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps. I'm using some of the techniques on my next video build now (an old Revell A-6 Intruder).
I use old bent airbrush needles for rescribing using the same methods otherwise. Old Pashe VL needles are great.
Great tip, thanks!
Wow 🤩 haha too late for my Monogram F-82 !! XD maybe I’ll get another and try all this !! Great video!!
I may do an old Monogram F-8 Crusader with it to show it applied to a completed model. Thanks for the feedback and sorry I missed that F-82 :)
Unless you get close, you'd never notice the difference between raised and recessed panel lines. Does RB have a US distributor? I'd like to add a riveting tool to my workshop.
Yep, the finishes are pretty close. As far as the RB tool, I'm not sure I've seen a US distributor. I think I ordered mine through the link I added in the description. It's a really nice tool and comes with several different wheel sizes.
Thanks for this video. I have an old Tamiya 1/48 A10 Warthog to build. It's covered in raised panel lines, although the overall shape is really good. Your advice is much appreciated.
Glad it helped. Would love to see what you do with that Tamiya A-10. Please feel free to share some pics over at my facebook page: facebook/flyingSmodels. Cheers!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻great tutorial very clear and explicit 😊👍
Thanks, Juan. Glad it helps.
When I was a teen, I used to spray the panel lines with a darker or lighter color then paint the model. After I would lightly sand the raised panel lines in the direction of air flow exposing the paint beneath. I like your oil affect but what do you do when you sand off the raised panel lines after filling gaps or seams?
Yep, that's another approach. Some guys paint the model black and then paint a couple coats of gloss. Then the add the top colors and after that, they sand the top color to reveal the black panel lines. With regards to sanding the raised lines off, I usually either scribe new ones or add them back with a pen or paint if I get lazy :)
raised panel lines are accurate and just fine, thank you...
Yep, the beauty of modeling, we can keep/build what we like.
What a godsend! Like/Subscribe/Bell
Hope it helped. Appreciate the sub and the feedback.
As always, wonderful work and good narration. You are a good instructor. Thank you.
Thank you, James. I'm glad that the narration and instruction are helpful. I always appreciate this kind of thoughtful feedback! Cheers
Dymo tape!!!🤦♂️
Thank you thank you.
Sure thing. It works great!
Geat video as usual, i get the feeling that raised panel lines are now being looked at with new eyes by modellers , Im a big fan of Paul Budzik, he takes a very different approach to panel lines , thanks for the videos .
Yes, indeed. I too am a fan of Paul's and he does take a completely different approach. A buddy of mine does as well and says he never saw panel lines on the planes he flew in so he doesn't even mess with trying to highlight them in any way. That's the beauty of the hobby. We can all build the way we want in the style that makes us happy and have fun. Appreciate the good feedback.
a cut straight pin? facepalm. Thanks for that magnificent tip.
Yep, no need for super fancy. Works great is cheap and easily replaced.
Outstanding tutorial! Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Thanks, Brian. Hope that it provides some useful information.
I just want to say thanks for the raised panel line video will really help with the old kits. I have a lot of old kits. I really like the chanel it helps alot.
Excellent, I am glad to be able to help. If you ever need anything, just leave a comment here or contact me through the contact section over at: flyingsmodels.square.site/
Excellent video... This has helped me to understand the process of imbellishing the panel lines so that they look closer to the real thing. I really appreciate your hard work in helping the older modelers like myself figure out how to deal with raised panel lines...
Thanks for the good words. I’m glad that the video helped. Another “tool” to add to the modeling toolbox. Hope it helps.
Great info!
Thanks, Model Minutes! Appreciate the feedback.
You sad it all! Thanks for this great modeling tips. 👍
Thanks. Hope they help.
Superb instructional video.
Thank you, David. Hope it helps.
It’s a vert Nice technic.
About black plane like the Sr-71. That technic can work with a white pencil or that’s a little bit too complicated?
Thanks!! I have done it with white and light grey as well on a 1/48 Monogram P-61.
It would work, but I wouldn't use white. Use a grey, even a darker grey than you might expect. White would be too stark. You want subtle.
I love what you did and I learned a lot but you didn't show how you deal with raised line accents or raised panel lines.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm a little confused by the comment about not showing how I dealt with raised panel lines. That's in there too and you can see the comparison. I did not talk about how to put raised detail back on after it is lost due to sanding. Maybe this is what you were asking about??
RB Productions not doing Rivet-R tools anymore.
I hate to hear that. I looked at the link that I put in the video description and thought it was still available. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm pretty sure the panel lines that modelers create on most kits are out of scale.
Yep, you are right but it's a balance between scale and the visual effect that each modeler desires to achieve in their builds, I guess. That's the good thing about the hobby....there's room for all styles. Appreciate the feedback!
you are really the engineer more than hobby
I guess that's a good thing....maybe :)
Thank you for this! I was given a 1/72 Monogram EF-111 last year. I haven't gone down to it due to my fear of scribing raised panels
I hope it helps you tackle that F-111. Let me know if you need anything else.
Well monogram had always +mold panel line requring reengraves. and old kit from revell italrei had +mold also when they fabricate it near late 80's.
It need to confirm panel lines before buying them
If they had tried to replicate the real aircraft it would have been prohibitively expensive to make molds that showed airplanes with the actual lap seam type of lines that actual aircraft predominantly have, airliners particularly :)
The cost/benefit trade, I guess. And the manufacturers are probably just giving us a few additional modeling "opportunities"...haha.
@@FlyingSModels had a 747 we were doing sheetmetal work on 1989 JFK at Pan Am we had lap seams to refurbish/remove corrosion, they got peeled back a foot or so to redo the new skins we were installing, lap seams are predominant style of skin placement :)
@@teenagerinsac Yep, my grandfather was a sheet metal worker on the flight line and Eglin AFB and used to tell me stories of redoing aircraft skin panels post flight.
Excellent video quality!
Thanks, Chuck.
Nice video nice technical. Thanks...
Thank you for the feedback.
You are such an inspiration - these are the kits I, too, grew up building, and learned a lot of my early skills from material included in the kits and publications featuring the work of Shepard Paine - the (famous) B17G " In The Pink"... the P61 with the scratch built port - side engine maintenance 'Pacific' diorama... Again, you bring forth your unparalleled passion and skill base in showing today's generation of perfection seeking builder's the pure joy and the inner most limits of pure model - making fun that is found in not only kits from another era which are so related to the state of the art... and demonstrate that one is only limited by imagination... in tooling, kit choice and subject matter to render true works of pride and commitment to fun that is the heart of what building a kit REALLY means... again, bravo, you have your finger on the pulse of what makes this hobby free-form and subjective only to one's own personality. Please keep it coming, this is truly heart warming stuff and your style is just a thing of beauty and wonder... my daughter's think you rock :)
Thank you , Christian. I really appreciate the feedback and good words. To me, with the advent of computer aided design kits, that the joy of "old school" modeling is becoming a thing of the past. I totally agree with you sentiment in that the kits we grew up with still provide a good bit of inspiration and nostalgia. So many modelers these days are more concerned about exact fit than they are just simply enjoying the "joys" of that old school modeling experience. Tell your daughters hello for me :)
@@FlyingSModels You are spot on in about this exact - fit thing - I guess that is the underlying thing that I was trying to articulate - I spent 2 years putting the Revell 1/72 Flower Class Corvette together - this is a kit that challenged me at EVERY stage - its practically scratch - built from above deck and I kit bashed a few Airfix kits for stuff - but mate, what a joy it was when I finished it... and still just makes me grin from ear to ear every time I look at it!!! :) My daughter's are chuffed that you reply and acknowledge their affection for you! Please keep it coming - this forum and your subscribers and others who watch your content need you to keep it coming :) As always, kind regards from Me, Charlotte (Lotty), Desirea and Gina!!!
And this is really what modeling and this channel is all about...helping to inspire modelers to get back to the "joy" of modeling, finish some unfinished projects, and be proud of the results. And making connections with a group that enjoys modeling is the best part of it all. Al the best, Chad.
A true master! Thank you for sharing your techniques, your results are incredible. Can't wait for your next video...this channel just keeps getting better and better.
Thanks for the kind words, Ed. Trying to improve as I go.
@@FlyingSModels not sure how much better you can get.....but I'm willing to watch
Ed D I’ll keep trying to improve with each new build.
Another way to exploit raised detail on plane models is to use preshading and Future floor polish. Let's say you want a natural metal finish on a raised detail model. Simply spray all panel lines and raised rivets with flat black paint. When it's dry, apply several coats of Future on the painted raised detail. Let each coat dry, and apply at least 4-5 coats. Let the Future fully cure for several days to make sure the moisture is wicked out of the Future and it becomes like a clear shell. Then apply your metal paint. But a word of warning: do NOT use ALCLAD paint for this technique. ALCLAD is excellent, but because it is mixed with acetone, it has excellent adhesion properties on styrene plastic and will not be easily removed in the next step. Use Model Master or some acrylic metal paint instead. When your metal layer dries, then carefully and lightly sand the entire surface of the plane with a 3200-grit sanding pad to remove the metal paint to reveal the black paint that is now protected by coats of Future. The raised detail will pop almost immediately. It's almost too good to be true, but it works. The key is to make sure you apply plenty of Future to keep from sanding the black paint off. This technique can also work for models painted in darker colors that would benefit from having raised detail show through. For all black planes, like the Black Widow, or the A-26 Invader, simply reverse the process and paint all the raised detail with ALCLAD metal paint. Now is the time you want a metal paint that can withstand being abraded. For extra protection, you can also lay on several coats of Future. When your dark colors are fully dry, take your 3200-grit pad and carefully scuff the raised details to remove the dark paint and reveal the perfect, metal painted details. Depending on the amount of weathering you want to show, you could paint the whole model with metal paint and gloss it with Future, then paint it black, let dry and and then scuff off paint to replicate extensive pitting or paint wear.
Excellent suggestions and a very well written tutorial. I have done this in the past but with limited success as I likely didn't have a thick enough clear coat to protect the model surface. I think I will have to try it again and see how it works for something like a 1/48 Revell F-89. I really don't want to rescribe that one...haha. Excellent instructions and I really appreciate you sharing this with the community here. All the best, Chad.
@@FlyingSModels Believe it or not, I will some day build that Revell F-89 using the techniques I've explained. It begs for a metal finish with black panel lines. I wrote an article for FineScale Modeler many moons ago on how to weather an A-26. The key is the Future. It needs to be pretty thick. If you use it on your floors, you know the spigot always gets clogged up and it won't squirt because it's crusted over. Thats the kind of shell you want on your preshaded panel lines. As long as you don't use 80-grit sandpaper, my techniques will float your boat.
@@stukaman1162 Good to know and I appreciate the advice. I look forward to seeing that F-89 down the road. Please keep me posted. Now where did I put that bottle of Future :)
@@FlyingSModels Check out the FSM ish of April 1999, where I go through the technique for exploiting raised detail on black planes.
@@stukaman1162 Roger that! Thanks!!
Such amazing models love them ol'Monogram kits! Well done nice vid!
Thanks. Monogram made some great ones back in the day!
Thank you!
You bet!
Excellent!
Thank you!! Appreciate the feedback.
Great tips for the raised panel lines, will certainly be giving them a try.
Thank you. Look forward to seeing/hearing how it works out for you.
FlyingSModels will be a good excuse to buy some older kits, not that I need an excuse 😀
@@jetsofthecoldwar1149 For sure. Me either...hahaha
THANK YOU! I'm re-entering the hobby, and I've got a backlog of these classic kits from the 80s. Wasn't sure how I was going to tackle, so I really appreciate your tips!
Hope it helps. Thanks for taking the time to leave some good feedback. Enjoy those old classics. I know I sure do!
Great video. Thanks. Rescribing has always really scared me but you have given me the confidence to have a go.
Great, Julian, I'm happy to hear. Look forward to hearing how it goes. Appreciate the feedback!
nice tutorial mate thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it. Hope it helps.
@@FlyingSModels i would like to see a full scribing riveting tutorial by you :P your explaination its awasome
Giorgos F. Might have to add that to the “to do list”. Would be a fun video. Thx for the suggestion.
Great Vid...I have a Hasagawa F-4C Phantom kit I have been sitting on trying to figure out how to deal with the raised panel lines and after watching this vid it gave me the green light in my head to pull it out and build it next....
Awesome! I look forward to hearing/seeing how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to provide some feedback!
Your raised panel line technique is great! Your effects are are a bit overdone for illustrative purposes, but I get the idea. Thanks for giving me hope in tackling my older kits!
Thank you, Steven. I appreciate that and I'm glad that the video might give you some inspiration for taking on some of those older kits. I did overdo the technique for the purpose of illustration but it is easily adapted to whatever your needs/or preferences are. Happy Modeling!
Great video. :)
Now, I don´t have that many kits I want to go back to - I built some Airfix and Matchbox as a kid, but there are new, modern kits for most of those.. I rather build them. I don´t have the attention span for this heroic job..! lol But I love watching it!
RB production has some great stuff though. Bought a rescribing tool and have used it when I sanded too much. And I bought a few saws that are nice!
You can say that again. I have some of their riveting tools and they work great!
@@FlyingSModels I´m sure.. :) It´s just not what I enjoy the most.. But you never know.. ;)
Despite the photos that begin your video, the many, many military aircraft I've seen in person never had panel lines. I firmly believe this is a "make it look cool" modelers' fiction. Where did this idea come from that model airplanes should have obvious and clearly delineated panel lines? I thought the point was to make a realistic model. I don't expect to convince anyone. Just making an observation from the perspective of several decades of building plastic model kits.
Thanks for your observation, Mark. I'd find it hard to believe that any real airplane didn't have panel lines. That would be quite a feat of engineering to create an airplane without individual panel lines...haha. I know what you mean, though, sometimes it's hard to actually see them. The great thing about model building is that modelers can build in a way that they like and find enjoyable. To me, modeling is just as much about art as any of the other attributes. And realism is hard to define in my book, as we all see things a little different. I have some modeling buddies that think accentuating panel lines is heresy and hey, that's their purgative. To me, there's plenty of room in the hobby world for all kinds of styles and I for one, appreciate all of them. Again, really appreciate the feedback and point of view. And if you would like to share some of your work, I always find inspiration in the works of all modelers. Feel free to share them over on my facebook page @ facebook/flyingSmodels. Others would no doubt be inspired as well! Happy Modeling!
@@FlyingSModels I understand the want to make an airplane(or any military) model look exactly like it's real life counterpart, but one thing I have never understood is why some people feel it is the ONLY way to do a model. I like making f-14 Tomcats. I have made several of them and painting EVERY SINGLE ONE some form of grey, get's not only boring to me, but no creativity or imagination goes into it. When i was very young, i was coloring in a coloring book along with my teacher and early on I was obsessed with perfection(still kind of am), not only staying in the lines but doing colors that are close to real. I was coloring a tiger orange and black and my teacher started coloring the same tiger BLUE! I was intrigued by the "outrageous" and unrealistic color but still said "that's not real. You're not supposed to do that." She taught me a valuable lesson that day, that what is appealing is in the eye of the beholder and to stretch the mind to think about coloring in a creative and imaginative way can be much more fun than sticking to reality. I know this is going to make some people's head explode(i'm not painting models to win any awards) but i am building the Top Gun Revell 1:48 Maverick F-14 right now and I want to paint the body a kind of yellow with very pronounced, very contrasted, solid black panel lines but with some smudging so the yellow looks a little darker in some areas. I have never panel lined before and I am kind of using this model as an experiment, while i soak in every youtube video on how to do panel lines, and I am simply wanting to use my 2 favorite colors, yellow and black. I know this will look absolutely nothing like the top gun movie planes(or any Tomcat for that matter) and possibly look ridiculous but I don't care. I build models for MY enjoyment and what I want. I am also thinking of painting the body black with fluorescent yellow panel lines. The latter tears at so many brains because "panel line accenting is to show natural wear and grime!" Now if i bought a Tamiya Tomcat that was over 100$, I might think differently but for 25 bucks, i'm gonna play around. I just bought a Bandai Star Wars AT-ST kit for 7 bucks and if I want it to be purple and gold then I'm gonna do it that way and either smile or say that looks horrible and buy another one for 7 bucks. Building, gluing, sanding, puttying, etc a model is the Zen for me, not needing to be perfect in respect to real life. I also bought the transformers optimus prime and bumblebee model kits and I do feel i need to make them the exact colors as the 80's cartoon because that's what i grew up liking. So yeah, in so many words, I agree with you that it's the builder's prerogative and anyone who complains about another person's lack of perfection to real life or the "point" of building a model is to be realistic, could use some much needed imagination in their life and needs to just keep opinions like those to themselves. This a rant that's been a long time coming after hearing and reading so many peoples' negative comments on how someone is doing it WRONG because it's not "realistic." Sorry it's so long but i had to get that off my chest and i guess i chose this year old video and comment to vent finally. by the way, thanks for the video, i learned a lot. Subscribed and looking forward to your other videos.
@@piperthirtytwo Hey Matthew, thanks for the sub and the good thoughts. I agree with you in that modelers should just have fun and do whatever they want. I like the idea of a yellow F-14. In fact, it might look really cool and reminiscent of the Blue Angel Beetle Bomb. Keep modeling the way you want. It's the only way to fly!
@@FlyingSModels Oh my! I have never heard of the Beetle Bomb before! After seeing pictures of it I want to build one right now! Thanks for the reply and the insight!
You're better off buying a new, high quality kit, and saving the old ones to give to a kid that's just starting to show a little interest in modeling.
Except when there is no new kit available or you want to get some experience with scratch building or kit bashing. Even out of the box, these old kits can be a blast and to me, are still worth the time and effort. Take for example, this 1/48 Monogram EA-6A I recently completed. Had a fantastic time building it: ruclips.net/video/kna1oak6wls/видео.html
@@FlyingSModels OH YEAH ....Great job on that old kit. Looks every bit as detailed as new ones.
You're just putting lipstick on a pig. Those old kits lack so much detail and quality everywhere else that they just aren't worth the effort. After you spend all those hours, sure, it will look a LITTLE BIT better, but you still end up with a mediocre model at best. You're better off putting all that extra time you waste on a good model that already comes with recessed lines and are loaded with detail instead.
On one hand, I can understand and maybe even agree with your sentiments. Many of the newer models definitely have better engineering and more detail. On the other hand, there are several reasons why building some of the older kits is the way to go. First, in some cases, there are no newer kits. Take for instance, the old Monogram F-102 or B-26. Second, some of the newer kits are worse than the older ones. I think the Kitty Hawk vs. Monogram F-101 would fall into this category. Lastly, some of us old modelers just like to experience of building a kit that we grew up with. To me, it helps to keep me connected with why I started building models in the first place. But I certainly appreciate your perspective and am thankful we live in a time where there so many choices for modelers to decide which route works best for them. Thank you for the comments.
@@FlyingSModels I understand about there being no new kits available for many airplanes/cars etc., so you go with what you already have and what's paid for. That's pretty much the case when it comes to drag racing kits, such as the old 1/16 Revelle funny cars, and dragsters. I'd like to see some new kits get made, but it doesn't look like that will happen. They are missing a lot of detail, but at least they don't have raised panel lines to deal with..LOL ! One MAJOR drawback on the new kits though....$$$$$$$$ !
@@meauxjeaux431 That is so true. It's all a trade off, in my opinion and I hope the manufacturers will continue to release tons of new kits. But like I said, just because it's old doesn't mean it's not worthy of some "building love". Happy Modeling to you!
Very well done Chad 👍🇩🇰
Thank you, Philip! Hope it's useful intel.
@@FlyingSModels always your work is informal and useful
Thank you for that, Philip
FlyingSModels hello Chad I hope you’re doing well, I need to ask you I used to brush paint my models using Humbrol enamel, now as I am going to use airbrush for the first time, I need to ask you is it important to use thin it before or thinner only used in acrylic paint?
@@infernumdk Most paints have to be thinned when airbrushing. There are a few paints on the market that come pre-thinned for airbrush use only and they typically state that on the bottles. But nearly all the paints I use, like Tamiay and AK Real Colors have to be thinned. Most enamels have to be thinned as well but I stopped using those many years ago. Hope this helps.