You have a few odd ball how to videos that are pretty cool. You talk spot on to convey professional aspects that prepare others to think right to tackle our own issues. Never thought about getting some color agent into my filler. Repairing those areas that did get sanded like inscribing panel lines & maybe rivet patterns, that's the true skill. Nice video.
Very good method - Paul Budzik does a very similar technique, except he uses a dental acrylic powder... same idea anyway... My only suggestion - for working the seem after you’ve applied the CA/filler... instead of using a sanding stick - use a file... and i mean like an 8” bastard file... (just not the same one you use for the lawnmower blade). A file CUTS material, and since it is a) flat and b) rigid you can be very precise with the point of contact, so you can actually preserve panel lines and surface details much better than using a sanding stick which typically has a spongy base to it... this means your removing plastic from around the seam... a file can actually give you an incredibly smooth surface finish too... often not even requiring any additional work... Anyway - just my thoughts on the technique. Good video either way 👍
I agree with you. I've used both metal files and sandblocks/sanding paper on plastic. The metal file performs a lot better on thinner plastic. It seemed to me that you got quicker results with using the metal file on the plastic without wrecking your tool which can happen with both the sandpaper and sandblock in my experience. The metal file especially works better on sharper edges that may have burs in them or something like 3/8" inch thick plastic. For flatter plastic surfaces with areas/holes patched with a quikplastic / plastic steel putty that are over an inch long, the sanding block probably works better if you want to level that putty with the plastic surrounding it. I emphasize again that is on flat-sided walls of plastic that have plumber's weld putty (multiple names for it, but it's the same off-white putty that's workable for 5 minutes and cures within hour; not that I touch the stuff until it dries for at least a day!) patching ABS plastic or fiberglass.
If you mix a bottle of Flexy5 K the basic flexible type,and mix it with 50g of Thin CA it helps PE take a hit,without 'snapping' so easily.When i ran out,i noticed pretty quickly at difference when using standard thin CA..Pigment great move.
You can tape the high side of the seam using a vinal tape. I prefer using automobile body filler from a tube. Its not bondo but a real nice fine compound that flows easily,much better than model putty. It drys pretty fast and can be worked very quickly. You can use a hair drier to get it to dry faster. My biggest problem with using super glue is its hard when it drys and leaves a shiny area. With the tape, I use the body filler on the low side and as soon as its filled, I remove the tape. I then hit it with the hair drier and then after it sets up, I carefully sand and blend it into the other side. I then hit it with primer to see if I need to do any more filling. Its easy to sand away the primer, again I use the hair drier on the primer to speed up the drying time. You can knock out a seam in no time. Whatever works for you. There really is no wrong way as long as you are happy and it looks good.
you all probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Callen Nathanael thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Brilliant to see your video on this, I've been a CA and talcum powder (with gunmetal pigment added) for a few years and still get funny looks when I try to tell other modellers about it. As I said in one of my comments below I use mainly talcum powder (the actual talc ie not corn starch) and a little metallic pigment. Talc gives about 5mins working time if mixed thin, and you can mix thicker (more talc) for a really easily workable mix. Thanks again, great content!
@@seanerk5kt9 yeah it's almost bizarre, most modellers I talk with about it almost seem to want to hold onto their established religion ~ squadron green grit.. oops I mean putty, and repeat applications over days with shrinkage. Maybe they see our method as a cheat or something? I've found zero shrinkage even after years, and even use it to install canopy transparencies because it doesn't fog. Madness! Your work is absolutely superb I must say. Do you make your entire living on commission builds? Cheers from Australia! www.wizardsmodels.com
I’ve already made my living (almost 20 years in law enforcement) and made good investments...my wife also works so whatever I make from my models, I just put back into more modeling stuff.
Thanks for this video! So helpful! May I ask which glue looper you are using? There are several versions (like "v4") available. I don't know which one to buy. :(
@@seanerk5kt9 Thanks for the quick reply! So... Would the v4 work as well? It's cheaper here in Germany. Or are they for different purposes? //edit: nvm. Found it out! They are indeed for different purposes.
At 10:10 you begin digging out a seem that wasn't filling correctly even with CA Glue. Just exploring possibilities but would it be a better idea to use some Tamiya Extra Thin glue first to clean out the joint, much like after rescribing panel lines, then put some CA and metallic pigment into it just to skip the part of widening the joint?
Hi Sean, just stumbled on this build series - wondered if this is still your preferred method of seam filling (3 years later 🙂). Thought I might give it a try unless you’ve come across a better process/method. Happy New Year and thanks!! And the finished build looks awesome!
I’ve had it last a couple of days, however because I use kicker, I usually get a small amount on my glue looper and it always seems to find a way into my palette (making it harden rather quickly).
@@seanerk5kt9 thanks. I'm itching to get back into plastic model building again after a very long hiatus. Where's the best place to buy supplies? And those glue looper blades?
I'm new to the scale model world and went all in on it. So I'm tripping through a simple revell b-25j and the thing didn't fit together very well. So I used this and got a great shape. It sanded down nicely, but once I got my primer on I have a line down the middle in spots. I've tried sanding it out and I'm starting to wonder if it's my ratio of pigment to CA? Again some places look perfect, but in others when light hits it right I can see where I filled. Any suggestions?
It’s not your ratio of ca and pigment. Without seeing it, I’m guessing it’s what’s often referred to as a “ghost seam”. In my experience, these show up when you fill a seam too quickly after cementing the parts together. The melted plastic can continue to move for several days after using cement until it’s completely cured. I’d recommend touching up the spots with your filler, either ca/ pigment or if they’re really shallow, you can just spray a thick coat of primer and sand. Hope that helps
Hey - do you ever detect differences between ca-glued seams that "kicked" with kicker and the ones that hardened on their own? Is "kicked" ca more bristle or softer? And whats about shrinking? Is it better to let the ca dry on his own? Thank you for your work!
Ca cured with accelerator does seem to be more brittle than ca that dries on its own. Because it’s being used as a filler and not as a bonding agent, the brittleness is not an issue. There is no shrinkage with ca like you would see in most fillers. I like to hit it with accelerator rather than let it dry on its own simply to save time.
I don’t measure, and it varies on how thick I want the mixture. If I want it to flow more, I’ll add less pigment, if I want a thicker consistency that’s a little easier to sand (but more messy) I’ll add a little more pigment. I typically use three times as much ca than pigment to start off, then play with it from there.
I've experimented with metallic pigment and talcum powder - have found that talcum powder (with some metallic pigment) eliminates the need to apply kicker. It's by far the very best filling system I've come across :) I also tested baking soda and it doesn't give the nice workable fill that talcum powder does.
I don't think the person who objected to your "slurping" is necessarily a wuss. Maybe he has some class. I object to your slurping as well. If your only response is an attack, that speaks to your character, not to someone being a wuss.
Why just one type pigment? I would think every pigment will mix with CA. Also, another method is shaving plastic into a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement until you get a semi thick putty. Using dark plastic will give you that visual aid. It dries at it's own speed so that is the draw back from CA method. You can't accelerate drying. But, it offers yet another way to apply seam or gap filler. If the solution gets too thick, you add more extra thin. Nice video. I personally dislike doing this type of work. I will tackle seams but, seldom scribe or toil over visible imperfections. My builds look great in all aspects, but, if you picked any one up to look closely, you would see all kinds of ignored issues. I am a mediocre modeler.
Hey Daniel, it’s funny that you mention what often is referred to as “sprue goo” (extra thin w/ plastic) as I’m using that on my current build in places. There are a number of ways to fill gaps each with their drawbacks and benefits. For normal seams, I just prefer the ca pigment method. I haven’t found any other pigments that mix with ca other than metallics...not sure why but that’s what I’ve found at least with Ammo Mig pigments.
I don’t know what mr hobby thin filler is, however if you’re talking about Mr Surfacer, I do use that in certain circumstances. I’ve tried lots of different fillers and each has their pros/ cons...as far as I’m concerned, this method for general filling gets me the best as well as quickest results.
The CA glue and metallic pigment technique, looks like a winner.
Beats waiting for putty or filler to go off.
Instant results, that's what I like.
You have become my favorite modeling guy to watch. Thanks for your tips. Love your work.
FANTASTIC I never would have thought of this. I run into that problem constantly. THANKS bud!
Thanks for the great tip! Seams are the thing I hate most. I tried the technique you offered and it definitely is a winner. Thanks a lot!
You have a few odd ball how to videos that are pretty cool. You talk spot on to convey professional aspects that prepare others to think right to tackle our own issues. Never thought about getting some color agent into my filler. Repairing those areas that did get sanded like inscribing panel lines & maybe rivet patterns, that's the true skill. Nice video.
Very good method - Paul Budzik does a very similar technique, except he uses a dental acrylic powder... same idea anyway...
My only suggestion - for working the seem after you’ve applied the CA/filler... instead of using a sanding stick - use a file... and i mean like an 8” bastard file... (just not the same one you use for the lawnmower blade). A file CUTS material, and since it is a) flat and b) rigid you can be very precise with the point of contact, so you can actually preserve panel lines and surface details much better than using a sanding stick which typically has a spongy base to it... this means your removing plastic from around the seam... a file can actually give you an incredibly smooth surface finish too... often not even requiring any additional work...
Anyway - just my thoughts on the technique.
Good video either way 👍
I agree with you.
I've used both metal files and sandblocks/sanding paper on plastic. The metal file performs a lot better on thinner plastic. It seemed to me that you got quicker results with using the metal file on the plastic without wrecking your tool which can happen with both the sandpaper and sandblock in my experience.
The metal file especially works better on sharper edges that may have burs in them or something like 3/8" inch thick plastic.
For flatter plastic surfaces with areas/holes patched with a quikplastic / plastic steel putty that are over an inch long, the sanding block probably works better if you want to level that putty with the plastic surrounding it. I emphasize again that is on flat-sided walls of plastic that have plumber's weld putty (multiple names for it, but it's the same off-white putty that's workable for 5 minutes and cures within hour; not that I touch the stuff until it dries for at least a day!) patching ABS plastic or fiberglass.
If you mix a bottle of Flexy5 K the basic flexible type,and mix it with 50g of Thin CA it helps PE take a hit,without 'snapping' so easily.When i ran out,i noticed pretty quickly at difference when using standard thin CA..Pigment great move.
It seems to be very interesting method. I'll try. Thanks
Nice video buddy I have been using ca for filler for years on cars
Try using a Flexi-File sander, it works great for rounded cross sections. It eliminates flat spots.
Fantastic tip mate 👍🇬🇧👌🇬🇧 I do bikes and F1cars , perfect solution .... many thanks
Great tutorial.
You can tape the high side of the seam using a vinal tape. I prefer using automobile body filler from a tube. Its not bondo but a real nice fine compound that flows easily,much better than model putty. It drys pretty fast and can be worked very quickly. You can use a hair drier to get it to dry faster. My biggest problem with using super glue is its hard when it drys and leaves a shiny area. With the tape, I use the body filler on the low side and as soon as its filled, I remove the tape. I then hit it with the hair drier and then after it sets up, I carefully sand and blend it into the other side. I then hit it with primer to see if I need to do any more filling. Its easy to sand away the primer, again I use the hair drier on the primer to speed up the drying time. You can knock out a seam in no time. Whatever works for you. There really is no wrong way as long as you are happy and it looks good.
you all probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me
@Terrell Braxton instablaster ;)
@Callen Nathanael thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Callen Nathanael It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Terrell Braxton Happy to help xD
Many aircraft had seams at the bottom of the fuselage from the wings to the rear. It can be difficult to research that though.
Brilliant to see your video on this, I've been a CA and talcum powder (with gunmetal pigment added) for a few years and still get funny looks when I try to tell other modellers about it.
As I said in one of my comments below I use mainly talcum powder (the actual talc ie not corn starch) and a little metallic pigment. Talc gives about 5mins working time if mixed thin, and you can mix thicker (more talc) for a really easily workable mix.
Thanks again, great content!
Thanks for the comment Paul. It’s such a quick and easy method with such good results that I’m surprised that more modelers don’t use it.
@@seanerk5kt9 yeah it's almost bizarre, most modellers I talk with about it almost seem to want to hold onto their established religion ~ squadron green grit.. oops I mean putty, and repeat applications over days with shrinkage.
Maybe they see our method as a cheat or something?
I've found zero shrinkage even after years, and even use it to install canopy transparencies because it doesn't fog. Madness!
Your work is absolutely superb I must say. Do you make your entire living on commission builds?
Cheers from Australia!
www.wizardsmodels.com
I’ve already made my living (almost 20 years in law enforcement) and made good investments...my wife also works so whatever I make from my models, I just put back into more modeling stuff.
Thanks for the great idea. I'm gonna give it a try.
Thanks. Love these tips.
Great tip. Thanx
Brilliant technique Sir, hobby Putty are always Shrinking after a few month.
Thanks for this video! So helpful! May I ask which glue looper you are using? There are several versions (like "v4") available. I don't know which one to buy. :(
I have the v2
@@seanerk5kt9 Thanks for the quick reply! So... Would the v4 work as well? It's cheaper here in Germany. Or are they for different purposes? //edit: nvm. Found it out! They are indeed for different purposes.
At 10:10 you begin digging out a seem that wasn't filling correctly even with CA Glue. Just exploring possibilities but would it be a better idea to use some Tamiya Extra Thin glue first to clean out the joint, much like after rescribing panel lines, then put some CA and metallic pigment into it just to skip the part of widening the joint?
Hi Sean, just stumbled on this build series - wondered if this is still your preferred method of seam filling (3 years later 🙂). Thought I might give it a try unless you’ve come across a better process/method. Happy New Year and thanks!! And the finished build looks awesome!
It’s still my favorite;). Happy new year!
Have you heard or used CA glue with dental acrylic power?
I prefer using that method.
Hi...at 4:15 you use a "kicker" product, but what is this product?
Thank you.
It’s CA (super glue) accelerator. Makes the super glue cure instantly
What mr product did you use. You said seamon? Can’t find it
Mr surfacer
What's the pot life on your CA and pigment slurry? How long will it sit on a palette before it hardens (without using kicker)?
I’ve had it last a couple of days, however because I use kicker, I usually get a small amount on my glue looper and it always seems to find a way into my palette (making it harden rather quickly).
@@seanerk5kt9 thanks. I'm itching to get back into plastic model building again after a very long hiatus. Where's the best place to buy supplies? And those glue looper blades?
eBay and amazon are the best places
I'm new to the scale model world and went all in on it. So I'm tripping through a simple revell b-25j and the thing didn't fit together very well. So I used this and got a great shape. It sanded down nicely, but once I got my primer on I have a line down the middle in spots. I've tried sanding it out and I'm starting to wonder if it's my ratio of pigment to CA? Again some places look perfect, but in others when light hits it right I can see where I filled. Any suggestions?
It’s not your ratio of ca and pigment. Without seeing it, I’m guessing it’s what’s often referred to as a “ghost seam”. In my experience, these show up when you fill a seam too quickly after cementing the parts together. The melted plastic can continue to move for several days after using cement until it’s completely cured. I’d recommend touching up the spots with your filler, either ca/ pigment or if they’re really shallow, you can just spray a thick coat of primer and sand. Hope that helps
Hey - do you ever detect differences between ca-glued seams that "kicked" with kicker and the ones that hardened on their own? Is "kicked" ca more bristle or softer? And whats about shrinking? Is it better to let the ca dry on his own? Thank you for your work!
Ca cured with accelerator does seem to be more brittle than ca that dries on its own. Because it’s being used as a filler and not as a bonding agent, the brittleness is not an issue. There is no shrinkage with ca like you would see in most fillers. I like to hit it with accelerator rather than let it dry on its own simply to save time.
What’s the name of the ca glue you used please
Maybe I missed it, but what ratio of CA to metallic?
I don’t measure, and it varies on how thick I want the mixture. If I want it to flow more, I’ll add less pigment, if I want a thicker consistency that’s a little easier to sand (but more messy) I’ll add a little more pigment. I typically use three times as much ca than pigment to start off, then play with it from there.
@@seanerk5kt9 Thanks for the quick reply. Will do and experiment a bit, that's half the fun.
Does anyone use surface filler and then wet sand to help remove seams joints etc
Curious what you think of CA glue and a baking powder mix?
I have better control with this method and it’s less messy
I've experimented with metallic pigment and talcum powder - have found that talcum powder (with some metallic pigment) eliminates the need to apply kicker. It's by far the very best filling system I've come across :)
I also tested baking soda and it doesn't give the nice workable fill that talcum powder does.
I clean my glue looper by burning off dried CA glue. Does mixing the CA glue with pigments impact that?
No it doesn’t
@@seanerk5kt9 Thanks. D'oh. Now that I'm rewatching your video I see that you demonstrate just that!
What is the 'kicked' you keep referring to please?
“Kicker” is slang for CA glue accelerator.
Sorry man, but you slurping your drink in the beginning was so gross I couldn’t watch any more of the video.
You get grossed out easily. Thanks for letting me know you’re such a wuss :)
I don't think the person who objected to your "slurping" is necessarily a wuss. Maybe he has some class. I object to your slurping as well. If your only response is an attack, that speaks to your character, not to someone being a wuss.
Whats the Kicker
Ca glue accelerator. Instantly cures super glue
6:25 what brand sanding stick are you using? Thanks!
This one:
www.ebay.com/itm/114289901926
Primedmodelworks thanks!
Why just one type pigment? I would think every pigment will mix with CA. Also, another method is shaving plastic into a bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement until you get a semi thick putty. Using dark plastic will give you that visual aid. It dries at it's own speed so that is the draw back from CA method. You can't accelerate drying. But, it offers yet another way to apply seam or gap filler. If the solution gets too thick, you add more extra thin. Nice video. I personally dislike doing this type of work. I will tackle seams but, seldom scribe or toil over visible imperfections. My builds look great in all aspects, but, if you picked any one up to look closely, you would see all kinds of ignored issues. I am a mediocre modeler.
Hey Daniel, it’s funny that you mention what often is referred to as “sprue goo” (extra thin w/ plastic) as I’m using that on my current build in places. There are a number of ways to fill gaps each with their drawbacks and benefits. For normal seams, I just prefer the ca pigment method. I haven’t found any other pigments that mix with ca other than metallics...not sure why but that’s what I’ve found at least with Ammo Mig pigments.
I just use a Dremel nice slurping your drink classy 😂
Bad Assery!
I have yet to cause a fire....
wouldn't mr. hobby thin filler by easier?
I don’t know what mr hobby thin filler is, however if you’re talking about Mr Surfacer, I do use that in certain circumstances. I’ve tried lots of different fillers and each has their pros/ cons...as far as I’m concerned, this method for general filling gets me the best as well as quickest results.
Putty is a nightmare