Water based fillers: - I use Liquitex modeling paste, much better price / value than other (modeling) brands. - I take a drop of it to a paint bowl, add a drop of water, mix and apply it to the model with a BRUSH. - I have a second paint bowl with water and a second brush ready to remove the excess filler. - It's easy to shape it for a couple of minutes with a hobby knife. After a few more minutes you can sand or scratch it down. - NEVER use cotton buds, not for this purpose or for cleaning your airbrush. They lose fibers sometimes and that will lead to lots of problems. Instead, use sponge buds, foam buds, cheap disposable brushes. - IPA is a stronger solvent for this material, even makes it bubble. Only use IPA to remove the excess and to clean your tools, not for the initial thinning.
Hello fellow RUclipsr; I love this kind of video. I always learn something. I did not know about the IPA used as an accelerator. There is another very useful technique to fill the medium to large gaps. Two-part sculpting paste-like Apoxie Scult. It has a long manipulation time, can be cleaned up with water, is easily sanded, and does not shrink. It also adds some structural strength. It can also be sculpted in any shape you want. It does not work very well for very small gaps. For that, I use Mr surfacer 500 and1000.
My go to putty of late, has been “sprue goo” (spare plastic that’s been melted down with modeling glue). It’s much like welding in that you adding plastic back to the surface. It sands just fine and you’re also reinforcing a bond being solvent glue based, in say a gap you’re filling.
Sprue goo can be fantastic! It's not my cup of tea, as the drying time can be very long and it doesn't really get rock hard, but it definitely has a lot of great features if you have the dedication 😂
Great video broham! If you dont mind me throwing a tip into the mix. Once in a while, no matter how much you try, on those pesky wide gaps. I stretch some leftover sprue, cut it to size and melt it with tamiya glue. A toothpick can be used to shape it. Hope it helps👍
One thing about IPA is that if the surface that is being accelerated has finished paint work, and the paint is something like AK Real color or Tamiya, the IPA can (and probably will) affect the paint. Standard CA kickers like Bob Smith Insta-Set don't seem to affect the underlying paint as long as you allow them to dry naturally.
Great video just trying the ca glue . Cut a light groove in a flat piece of styrene. How long does it take to dry ? Don’t want to sand it too early ! Hope this works as I don’t seem to have much success with normal filler. Many Thanks
Thank you! When using CA glue, ghost seams shouldn't be an issue as CA is far far more stable than standard modelling fillers. However, if you're using a solvent based filler, the only way to really counter ghost seams is to leave the filler to dry for as long as possible (even up to a week) to ensure that the majority of shrinkage has happened before paint is applied
One problem I ran into was was sanding acrylic type putties ( Perfect Plastic Putty, Vallejo, etc.. ). I wet sand putties when I can because it cuts faster, reduces the dust and makes your sanding material last longer ( if it's wet sanding type ). The big problem I ran into is you can not wet sand water based putties even when the putty has dried rock hard. It might just be me but I find it can't be done. It just softens the putty.
Yeah, unfortunately as I highlighted in the video, acrylic putties don't take well to sanding at all because of their molecular buildup. As a result, I'd make sure to remove all excess with a damp cotton bud beforehand to make sure you don't hit any issues later on 👍
The reason the reason that TINY $15 bottle of Vallejo Plastic putty doesn't take well to sanding is because it is probably no different than acryllic bathtub caulking at $5 for a whole tube! It is smooth and beautiful to work with when wet, but turns to rubber when it dries. That said, hardware and drug stores are FULL of savings for the plastic modeller. I no longer buy 'plastic cement', paint thinners and setting solutions by tamiya or Mr Colour, etc.. Upon closer examination, these materials are nothing more than varied dilutions of ordinary lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, glycerine.. These hosers will bottle, market and sell human urine if they could find a use for it. @@ModellingWeekly
@@DoghouseFunkBlaster65 I guess prices in the US are inflated because in Europe you can get Vallejo putty for around £3. Caulk could be a good alternative, however, so cheers for pointing this out! Not sure if they're exactly the same though so would require testing. As for the other money saving pointers, I totally agree with you - I have a pretty popular video on the topic which can be found here: ruclips.net/video/RyB-S1xjczI/видео.html
Hope you find this useful guys!
Thanks for your video. In fact I'm a model railway modeller but you tips and 'how to's' have come in very helpful. Great stuff.
I'm very glad! My pleasure!
One of the best guide films on YT.
Thank you! I'm glad you like it :)
Water based fillers:
- I use Liquitex modeling paste, much better price / value than other (modeling) brands.
- I take a drop of it to a paint bowl, add a drop of water, mix and apply it to the model with a BRUSH.
- I have a second paint bowl with water and a second brush ready to remove the excess filler.
- It's easy to shape it for a couple of minutes with a hobby knife. After a few more minutes you can sand or scratch it down.
- NEVER use cotton buds, not for this purpose or for cleaning your airbrush. They lose fibers sometimes and that will lead to lots of problems. Instead, use sponge buds, foam buds, cheap disposable brushes.
- IPA is a stronger solvent for this material, even makes it bubble. Only use IPA to remove the excess and to clean your tools, not for the initial thinning.
Hello fellow RUclipsr; I love this kind of video. I always learn something. I did not know about the IPA used as an accelerator.
There is another very useful technique to fill the medium to large gaps. Two-part sculpting paste-like Apoxie Scult. It has a long manipulation time, can be cleaned up with water, is easily sanded, and does not shrink. It also adds some structural strength. It can also be sculpted in any shape you want. It does not work very well for very small gaps. For that, I use Mr surfacer 500 and1000.
All fantastic tips! Thanks so much for the input!
My go to putty of late, has been “sprue goo” (spare plastic that’s been melted down with modeling glue). It’s much like welding in that you adding plastic back to the surface. It sands just fine and you’re also reinforcing a bond being solvent glue based, in say a gap you’re filling.
Sprue goo can be fantastic! It's not my cup of tea, as the drying time can be very long and it doesn't really get rock hard, but it definitely has a lot of great features if you have the dedication 😂
Great video broham! If you dont mind me throwing a tip into the mix. Once in a while, no matter how much you try, on those pesky wide gaps. I stretch some leftover sprue, cut it to size and melt it with tamiya glue. A toothpick can be used to shape it. Hope it helps👍
That is a fantastic tip for those pesky gapers! Cheers for this mate, glad you liked the tutorial :)
Thanks for the tips, cheers Liam
No problem, many thanks for watching :)
Hi buddy fantastic tutorial its going to help me big time thank you for taking the time to do this video. Cheers Gary 🇬🇧
Heya mate, no problem at all, I'm glad I could help :)
Well done.
Very helpful tips thanks.
I never knew about isopropyl super glue accelerator, great tip.Also I''ll be picking up some Vallejo putty.Thanks.
Both are fantastic! My pleasure :)
One thing about IPA is that if the surface that is being accelerated has finished paint work, and the paint is something like AK Real color or Tamiya, the IPA can (and probably will) affect the paint. Standard CA kickers like Bob Smith Insta-Set don't seem to affect the underlying paint as long as you allow them to dry naturally.
@@carlsmoot2939 yep this is a good point, you don't want to be using IPA as a catalyst on paintwork. For CA filler, however, it's completely fine :)
@@carlsmoot2939 Thanks for the info.
Great video just trying the ca glue . Cut a light groove in a flat piece of styrene. How long does it take to dry ? Don’t want to sand it too early ! Hope this works as I don’t seem to have much success with normal filler. Many Thanks
@@davidanderson688 I normally leave it 24 hours so that it's rock solid :)
Hi, very interesting video!, congrats!, what about Ghost seams?
How to deal with and fix them on?
Thank you! When using CA glue, ghost seams shouldn't be an issue as CA is far far more stable than standard modelling fillers. However, if you're using a solvent based filler, the only way to really counter ghost seams is to leave the filler to dry for as long as possible (even up to a week) to ensure that the majority of shrinkage has happened before paint is applied
One problem I ran into was was sanding acrylic type putties ( Perfect Plastic Putty, Vallejo, etc.. ). I wet sand putties when I can because it cuts faster, reduces the dust and makes your sanding material last longer ( if it's wet sanding type ). The big problem I ran into is you can not wet sand water based putties even when the putty has dried rock hard. It might just be me but I find it can't be done. It just softens the putty.
Yeah, unfortunately as I highlighted in the video, acrylic putties don't take well to sanding at all because of their molecular buildup. As a result, I'd make sure to remove all excess with a damp cotton bud beforehand to make sure you don't hit any issues later on 👍
The reason the reason that TINY $15 bottle of Vallejo Plastic putty doesn't take well to sanding is because it is probably no different than acryllic bathtub caulking at $5 for a whole tube! It is smooth and beautiful to work with when wet, but turns to rubber when it dries. That said, hardware and drug stores are FULL of savings for the plastic modeller. I no longer buy 'plastic cement', paint thinners and setting solutions by tamiya or Mr Colour, etc.. Upon closer examination, these materials are nothing more than varied dilutions of ordinary lacquer thinner, isopropyl alcohol, mineral spirits, glycerine.. These hosers will bottle, market and sell human urine if they could find a use for it. @@ModellingWeekly
@@DoghouseFunkBlaster65 I guess prices in the US are inflated because in Europe you can get Vallejo putty for around £3. Caulk could be a good alternative, however, so cheers for pointing this out! Not sure if they're exactly the same though so would require testing.
As for the other money saving pointers, I totally agree with you - I have a pretty popular video on the topic which can be found here: ruclips.net/video/RyB-S1xjczI/видео.html
Thanks so much for the help.
What do you use for filling larger gaps? Thanks
I'd recommend stabilising them by wedging some plasticard in them first, and then applying the filler to smooth out the joint