One of the things I have seen recommended when cutting parts off the sprue tree is to cut the attachment a short distance away from the part, leaving a moderately-sized nub attached to the part, until the part is completely free of the sprue, then the remaining nubs are cut off flush to the part. This minimizes stress on the part, which will reduce the chances of breaking delicate parts that have several attachment points, like a wiring harness for a radial engine.
Thanks. Exactly the video I was looking for. I see you have a great selection of models on your website. My favorites are the aircraft and navy ships. I will shop there in the future. -edit - Wow you really do have an excellent selection of WW2 naval vessels. Best I've seen anywhere.
For larger surfaces, should one change the direction of sanding for each consecutive grit type, or does it remain the same to egt the smoothest finish?
I use mr surfacer 1200 and mr dilluted putty for small gaps since they are thinn and easily go into the lines filling them. Ammo by mig's enamel based putty for big gaps. I dont like acrylic based because it can not be sanded immidietly after drying.
Be careful and go slow. Dont be in a hurry to finish. I used to build models all the time when I was 11. You are probably 12 now. Im 52 now and still doing it.
The old-school approach to this hobby of ours is always very pleasing and inspiring to watch. "Just take your time", that's the correct spirit
One of the things I have seen recommended when cutting parts off the sprue tree is to cut the attachment a short distance away from the part, leaving a moderately-sized nub attached to the part, until the part is completely free of the sprue, then the remaining nubs are cut off flush to the part. This minimizes stress on the part, which will reduce the chances of breaking delicate parts that have several attachment points, like a wiring harness for a radial engine.
Thanks for the information, very useful.
'Pushmi-Pullyu' aircraft...Do 335........Thank you for the vid...Always learning every day....from the UK
very nice to se the patience and detail in the explanation
very instructive. most kind
I really appreciate your videos, keep em' coming!
Thanks. Exactly the video I was looking for. I see you have a great selection of models on your website. My favorites are the aircraft and navy ships. I will shop there in the future. -edit - Wow you really do have an excellent selection of WW2 naval vessels. Best I've seen anywhere.
For larger surfaces, should one change the direction of sanding for each consecutive grit type, or does it remain the same to egt the smoothest finish?
What if there is a huge misalignment of parts, like a quarter inch, is it possible to save it?
nice but what I miss are the step still you prime it and can´t see any gaps or putty any more.
I use mr surfacer 1200 and mr dilluted putty for small gaps since they are thinn and easily go into the lines filling them. Ammo by mig's enamel based putty for big gaps. I dont like acrylic based because it can not be sanded immidietly after drying.
@MegaHobby What is the name of the part holder that's holding the fuselage parts while you paint them with primer at 7:40 ? Thanks.
Found it or one like it searching the webs
TAMIYA America, Inc Model Stand, TAM74522
What GRIT sandpaper?? Type??
Grit needed please! Lol
He said 400 grit for this application.
Do you have a monogram masseratti 3500 gt?
I’m a 11 years old and I am trying my first model and it’s gonna be a submarine can you make a tourtual
Be careful and go slow. Dont be in a hurry to finish. I used to build models all the time when I was 11. You are probably 12 now. Im 52 now and still doing it.
is AAA hobbies still open?
Does AAA hobbies sell both of these putties?
That is a mask, Its not a respirator. Respirators are much more effective. Make sure you use the right canisters & Filters on the respirator.
It's Japanese so it's pronounced "Tom-ee-Yah"