It interests me that this technique makes weathering appear to come from underneath the final finish. Weathering occurs on the surface of the finish in real life. Models being smaller versions of actual objects would weather in the same fashion. It appears to me this undercoating makes your model airplane look as if your airbrush technique is random or sloppy by the time it's all done. Yuck.
The finish of the model reflects what I wanted to imitate. In this case, I wanted a used, sun-bleached zero based in the Solomons. The technique is somewhat about weathering but it is more about showing paint wear by breaking up the solid color. Ultimately it is about creating some visual interest on the model. That the final product looks sloppy or random is entirely the point.
@@ModelAirplaneMaker & @seansky2721 I kinda agree with both of you so lets see if I can contribute to this topic. I am using blackbasing myself and find it to be one of the easiest ways to avoid the so called "toy snake look". The control of colours, opacity and wear gives me personally ultimate freedom to do whatever I want to expres. I however see ALOT of models for the last decade or so at modelshows, in magazines and here online, that seem to be translucent and have an appearance not resembling anything in real life. This gets applauded and promoted, since Mig/Ammo and others make fortunes on all the unnessesary products thats being used in this technique. Just look at anything Mig Jimenez makes and you'll know exactly what I mean. I also see alot of models that get done this way with too low airpressure and/or too little paint. Resulting in massive orangepeel. So in my opinion it works, but only if you truely understand what your doing. (Do NOT overdo it AND fuk Mig/Ammo..) Not sure if it contributed but there you go! Ps; Love the model!
Awesome work. Returned to my childhood hobby after 24 years and so much changed in this space. Trying to grasp all techniques and get my head around all new finishing products. Great video. Much appreciate for sharing ❤
Again like others have said , i am returning to my childhood hobby , which was as a 12 or 13 yr old in the 70s , but such big changes from then to now and to be honest its mind boggling , i have just started buying all the kit i may need for various builds of now and future back in the day airbrushes were not available i now have several airbrushes and a 3 ltr mini comp but unfortunately it does not allow me to change pressure and so i am spraying with it at 20 to 25 pressure which after watching your excellent video tells me i need to get another compressor that allows me to change the pressure , so until i can save up enough to buy one the weathered look will remain a dream for future builds , but your video was very informative and clear and easy to follow so thankyou for the time you have given to help newbies like me out .
Shading is caused by light and the lack thereof, not by paint. What is meant is that painted shading is one dimensional and fake looking. Once placed in a bright location the painted shadows don't line up with the angle of the light hitting the surface and you wind up with real shading over laying fake shading. The way it is done here is for accenting and looks great, the way it should be done. Notice no hard dark lines and patchy "Quilted" nonsense. Well done! Understand how light and shadows work and you will no longer be painting shadows and panel lines on your models. It's an impossible concept for most modellers mainly due to Cartoons/Anime that need to do this for it to look good on film.
Q: Just finished covering the pre marbling effect with base color on my F15. Surface came out a bit rough. What grit should I use to smooth it out without damaging the paint job ?
Thanks for fixing this very good video. Tried it out on a P-38 that I'm working on. It's a bit of a learning curve. It's definitely a technique that I will continue to work on 😊
Glad it helped! The nice thing about it is that you are supposed to be somewhat messy and blotchy as fading is not uniform. The part I found difficult is knowing when to put the airbrush down when applying the top coats! You can always add more....
Ive been building Gundam models but recently decided to get a 1/48 Macross plane and im going to use this technique on it (after practicing on a few other models of course, dont wanna mess up an expensive model)
I've been thinking about doing this. As it happens, I'm in the middle of building two Tamiya Zeroes, but in 1/72nd. I'm just wondering if the effect will be worth the effort on something so small.
Q: I would like to try this technique but my F15 doesn’t have one color but camo. How I can use this technique on camo configuration ? Your help appreciated. Thx.
@@artsmodelstation9396 for a camo finish you would start with the marbling as always. Then you would need to print out the pattern you want to replicate. The first colour would be applied carefully and then masked with either a hard edge mask or a soft edge one. PM me for a picture of what I mean
Good question. There are two things you need to think about: How subtle do you want the marbling to be and then the 'thin-ness' of the topcoat. For the zero it was whites, greys, browns because of the grey topcoat. For an olive (USAAF) i went with greys, whites, some blues and that worked well. I have not tried it but with a blue, whites, light blues, and maybe even oranges. I'd be worried a bit about greens. My goal is always a very thin top coat and maybe two coats at most. The more the contrast, the more likely you will have to make several top coats to blend it all in.
It's not stated, but it seems that your primer coat was gloss black and you filled in the panels with mottling. Supposed I start with a gray primer, and then add dark gray and beige squiggles over the entire model. THEN cover all the panel lines with black, varying the intensity and width of the line as I go. Seems it might be easier than trying to staying with in the panel area for mottling each panel.
It interests me that this technique makes weathering appear to come from underneath the final finish.
Weathering occurs on the surface of the finish in real life. Models being smaller versions of actual objects would weather in the same fashion. It appears to me this undercoating makes your model airplane look as if your airbrush technique is random or sloppy by the time it's all done. Yuck.
The finish of the model reflects what I wanted to imitate. In this case, I wanted a used, sun-bleached zero based in the Solomons. The technique is somewhat about weathering but it is more about showing paint wear by breaking up the solid color. Ultimately it is about creating some visual interest on the model. That the final product looks sloppy or random is entirely the point.
@@ModelAirplaneMaker & @seansky2721 I kinda agree with both of you so lets see if I can contribute to this topic. I am using blackbasing myself and find it to be one of the easiest ways to avoid the so called "toy snake look". The control of colours, opacity and wear gives me personally ultimate freedom to do whatever I want to expres. I however see ALOT of models for the last decade or so at modelshows, in magazines and here online, that seem to be translucent and have an appearance not resembling anything in real life. This gets applauded and promoted, since Mig/Ammo and others make fortunes on all the unnessesary products thats being used in this technique. Just look at anything Mig Jimenez makes and you'll know exactly what I mean. I also see alot of models that get done this way with too low airpressure and/or too little paint. Resulting in massive orangepeel. So in my opinion it works, but only if you truely understand what your doing. (Do NOT overdo it AND fuk Mig/Ammo..) Not sure if it contributed but there you go!
Ps; Love the model!
Awesome work. Returned to my childhood hobby after 24 years and so much changed in this space. Trying to grasp all techniques and get my head around all new finishing products. Great video. Much appreciate for sharing ❤
Again like others have said , i am returning to my childhood hobby , which was as a 12 or 13 yr old in the 70s , but such big changes from then to now and to be honest its mind boggling , i have just started buying all the kit i may need for various builds of now and future back in the day airbrushes were not available i now have several airbrushes and a 3 ltr mini comp but unfortunately it does not allow me to change pressure and so i am spraying with it at 20 to 25 pressure which after watching your excellent video tells me i need to get another compressor that allows me to change the pressure , so until i can save up enough to buy one the weathered look will remain a dream for future builds , but your video was very informative and clear and easy to follow so thankyou for the time you have given to help newbies like me out .
I have learned something new today, the results are both beautiful & realistic.
Thank you for that. Fascinating. Back into modelling thanks to lockdown and getting to grips with air brushing. Brilliant.
This audio is much better. I will try this technique. Thanks for excellent tutorial. Keep making videos.
Your videos are excellent! Thanks for what you do!
Thank you so much!
Very nice and clean build up of the final layer. Great job!!!
Shading is caused by light and the lack thereof, not by paint. What is meant is that painted shading is one dimensional and fake looking. Once placed in a bright location the painted shadows don't line up with the angle of the light hitting the surface and you wind up with real shading over laying fake shading. The way it is done here is for accenting and looks great, the way it should be done. Notice no hard dark lines and patchy "Quilted" nonsense. Well done!
Understand how light and shadows work and you will no longer be painting shadows and panel lines on your models. It's an impossible concept for most modellers mainly due to Cartoons/Anime that need to do this for it to look good on film.
Q: Just finished covering the pre marbling effect with base color on my F15. Surface came out a bit rough. What grit should I use to smooth it out without damaging the paint job ?
I wouldn't do anything stronger than 2000 and I would probably start with 3000 grit
Thanks for fixing this very good video.
Tried it out on a P-38 that I'm working on. It's a bit of a learning curve. It's definitely a technique that I will continue to work on 😊
Glad it helped! The nice thing about it is that you are supposed to be somewhat messy and blotchy as fading is not uniform. The part I found difficult is knowing when to put the airbrush down when applying the top coats! You can always add more....
Great Video. Keep up the good work.
Nice video ! just subbed and looking forward to new vids
Ive been building Gundam models but recently decided to get a 1/48 Macross plane and im going to use this technique on it (after practicing on a few other models of course, dont wanna mess up an expensive model)
Thanx for the video, is there any recommendations for airbrush brand or needle size?
I've been thinking about doing this. As it happens, I'm in the middle of building two Tamiya Zeroes, but in 1/72nd. I'm just wondering if the effect will be worth the effort on something so small.
Definitely - I've seen it on 72nd spitfires and they look amazing. That said, you will have to be very careful and take your time on blending!
Awesome and learned a lot. But, pray, why is there no lid on the airbrush pot? I shuddered everytime i see the paint swirl in the pot!
I've yet to have an accident... but I should close it up. The problem is that I have trouble getting the cap on and off
Could you recommend color choices, particularly for Corsair which will be a dark top blue?
Any experience with other acrylics than Tamiya?
Mostly tamiya but I also use Gunze for certain things and I have used Vallejo as well. Tamiya is just readily available and always consistent.
Q: I would like to try this technique but my F15 doesn’t have one color but camo. How I can use this technique on camo configuration ? Your help appreciated. Thx.
@@artsmodelstation9396 for a camo finish you would start with the marbling as always. Then you would need to print out the pattern you want to replicate. The first colour would be applied carefully and then masked with either a hard edge mask or a soft edge one. PM me for a picture of what I mean
@@ModelAirplaneMaker I sent you PM on your website. Thx.
Question: what determines what colors the marbling should be under certain topcoats?
Good question. There are two things you need to think about: How subtle do you want the marbling to be and then the 'thin-ness' of the topcoat. For the zero it was whites, greys, browns because of the grey topcoat. For an olive (USAAF) i went with greys, whites, some blues and that worked well. I have not tried it but with a blue, whites, light blues, and maybe even oranges. I'd be worried a bit about greens.
My goal is always a very thin top coat and maybe two coats at most. The more the contrast, the more likely you will have to make several top coats to blend it all in.
It's not stated, but it seems that your primer coat was gloss black and you filled in the panels with mottling. Supposed I start with a gray primer, and then add dark gray and beige squiggles over the entire model. THEN cover all the panel lines with black, varying the intensity and width of the line as I go. Seems it might be easier than trying to staying with in the panel area for mottling each panel.
I think you’ll end up in the same place. But you’ll have no issues with the mottling once you’ve had some practice
Thanks.
Casting it on a large screen TV
.
Hi there - the sound was fixed in this vid.