I just fixed one same way . Low compression on 8 . I pulled the heads and the valves were sharper than razors . I had new valves put in with valve job . New head gaskets . Pull the heads with the exhaust manifolds on and put back same way .
My 2014 5.0 has a p304 cylinder 4 misfire. Ford put a scope in the cylinder and it had pretty bad scoring in cylinder wall. They want to sell me a remanufactured engine for 14,000 canadian. Thinking about pushing it off a cliff
In case you are wandering, why cylinder four and cylinder eight valves always tend to fail, is because your catalytic converters are clogging, which then gives you back pressure and the enormous heat you have at those cylinders, since they are all the way in the back and all the other cylinders Heat will go past that cylinder. Your valves tend to burn from that heat. This will normally happen right around 200,000 km.
Mine was cylinder # 4 I’m unique once I pulled head i said let’s do the driver side. Now I’m getting new gen 3 short block an new valves seals an cams. Hey IMO leave the exhaust manifold on just remove the head with exhaust manifold a lot easier for me anyway
@Cyclic Mac You need to watch this guys video you’re valves have receded into the head and it’s causing compression to leak out through the intake valve you need to remove both heads and replace all the intake valves while you’re in there you may want to replace other parts. This guy made a incredible video and he did a really good job it’s not as easy as he makes it sound this guy is a good mechanic but it is not that difficult if you are mechanically inclined. I put in GT cams part of my heads port matched my exhaust manifolds while I was replacing the intake valves I’ve put the project on hold the past six months and periodically clean and clean and clean but as soon as I get it back together I will be posting a video on my channel. Everything is prepped as of right now have all new head gasket’s cam cap bolts etc.
Great video brotha. I was planning on using new Dealer valves and lapping them in. It’s great to see someone fix something without have to rely on a machine shop.
I have been searching for hours for video about 5.0 head removal. This video far and away is the best.. I have a cylinder seven misfire and low compression. It was awesome to see what the bad valves actually look like. Supposedly, the replacement valves are not the ones that will wear like that. where did you source all of the Ford parts?
I got everything except for the phaser bolts on Rock Auto. I ordered the phaser bolts from a local ford dealer. For the cam cap bolts, I used grade 10.9 cap head screws from Amazon because they were way cheaper than from Ford. If you do end up using normal bolts rather than the ones from ford, don’t use the ford torque specs. Follow standard torquing procedure for the size and use threadlocker to be safe I’d say.
Im surprised to see its that big of an issue, I drive my 14 like I stole it and tow regularly and it just rolled 382,000kms. Doesn't miss a beat and gets good mileage on the highway.
Thanks Video , this is much helpful for 5.0L owner may have same problem. I'm a Ford technician I ve seen this problem only 5.0 L , all back of cylinder head #4, # 8 .
I got the same problem, on the scanner say's code p0304, p0301, the mechanic told me is a fire valve, the only question that stay in my mind, is why the codes can't erase with the scanner, because I had knowledge if you erase with the engine off, and the codes come back again even I don't start the engine just the switch on, probably is an electrical failure or do you have the same issue until did the big job?
I've been researching this as my 2012 starred setting misfire on cyl 8, new plugs helped for a work and codes back so km suspecting this. I also resealed the intake as I've had a squealing sound at highway speed that goes away when you change throttle position that I thought might be an intake leak. Have you considered a cracked intake as a cause for the valve wear? I'm still chasing the noise and I'm wondering if there is a common root cause for this engine.
Nice work. Mine had the leaking rad hose o-rings that these all get. wonder if the worn valves happen because it had been run low on coolant. #8 and #4 being furthest from the water pump. Might have had air pockets at the back of the heads at one point.
Possible. This truck was abused. The catalytic converters were severely clogged so it had extreme exhaust back pressure and heat. I think that was a contributing factor on the worn valves.
Man. Great video. I’d say one of the toughest things would be understanding what everything is called. That, and being able to record everything to take off and get it back into the right place and the right order.
Did you end up replacing the valve stem seals? The guide on the secondary timing chain for the cam phaser on the driver side broke which snapped the chain. I pulled the left head off and now I’m replacing the valves. They aren’t in bad condition like everyone else is having but I just decided to do it since I have 225k miles. Any help from anyone is appreciated.
Yeah replace all seals when you have it apart. Non worn items it’s ok to just leave if they’re good. No point fixing what isn’t broken. Hope it went / is going well!
Have the same issue on my 2010 f150 5.4 with 190k miles. Everything I see online is its always cylinder 8. It's in the shop now getting a fuel injector replaced hopefully that helps
Very well made video, you explained everything in understandable terms, I think I have this similar issue in my dads 2013 f150 it has 150,000 miles on it and just got a misfire on cylinder 8 gonna check coils and plugs but I have a feeling I have an intake valve worn down like you did, thanks for the vid
Hey no problem, make sure you do a compression test or leak down test first. You’ll need a long reach adapter for the tester, it’s the one with the extended threads, because the plug hole threads are recessed into the head.
Check for the normal misfire causes first… swap ignition coils, injectors, wiring faults, etc. If it all check out, and there’s still a misfire I’d be doing a compression test. Good luck :)
This is very common on 2010-2013 5 liter engines. The valves were made from a crappy material and the edges get sharp and dont seal properly. I have a 2013 mustang GT sitting in my front yard right now with all 8 cylinders around 90 psi at 110k miles. I already went thru this on my 2013 F150 and just replaced the engine. So If you are going to do this job. You NEED to do a new melling high volume oil pump, New Water Pump, thermostat housing, Y hose, and O rings for all coolant hoses that are in good shape. If you have high mileage, you also likely need an alternator. You will also need a new Timing Set and cam phasers From FORD ONLY! (latest available design). Get your heads to a machine shop and have the replace all valves, and do a valve job on the seats and surface the heads and clean everything. I would also change out all the rocker arms, valve springs and lifters and dont forget to change out the filter inside the cams and clean out the oil passages in the cams as well as the engine block and heads. if you have a shop do all this work it very likely could cost more than putting a new engine in it. However, you may have to wait for months to get a new gen 1 coyote from Ford. I got a new engine for my F150 from another supplier because I couldnt wait. If you do that make sure they use only FORD timing components and make sure they change every single valve, spring, valve guide, rocker arm, lifter, everything except the cam. All in my F150 engine was about $6500 and cost $2000 in labor to install in 2021. The Ford dealer here charges $200 and hour for labor. This is at least a 20 hour job so thats a good $8000 in labor alone which is about what it cost me to change the engine.
Finally found a video, thanks man, this is gonna help a lot. I have a cylinder 6 misfire. I got the driver side valve cover removed today, and the coolant drained. Hopefully I'll be able to pull the cylinder head tomorrow. Gonna be a long day.
@Barien White yeah man, replaced all intake valves. Nothing wrong with the seats or valves, just a lot of carbon build up. I'd def maybe add some seafoam to your oil and then change your oil ~300 miles later to get rid of some of that carbon build up. Wish I would've tried that before doing all that work.
My 2013 f150 with 5 liter started having cylinder 5 compression issues at 80k miles. Some shops tried to sell me a new engine. 50 psi in the cylinder now and it's time to make a move.
9:49 Notice that the exhaust valves show progressively more red color when going from front cylinders to back cylinders, I guess indicating increasing temperature when going from front to back.
This past week found out my truck with under 115k miles suffered the same fate (#7 misfire). The shop said they thought they saw scoring in that cyl. Does that mean game over with the block and the head repair in this video won't solve my problem? Thanks.
Because it’s not the exhaust valves on these trucks that have a problem. If your truck is not burning any oil and you have low compression it’s going to be your intake valves
Without tearing the engine apart, you have to do a leak down test. Leak down test, is where you apply compressed air into the spark plug hole. Leak down testers have gauges to determine the amount of air leaking, and you will have to listen for where the air is leaking. If you hear it in exhaust it’s an exhaust valve, through intake it’s an intake valve, through oil cap then it’s bad rings or scored cylinder or hole In piston or whatever, and if you hear in the cooling system (bubbling) the. It’s a head gasket or cracked head or sleeve.
I didn’t. You can check them with a straight edge and feeler gauges. Most people say you should have them resurfaced every time no matter what. I don’t care, it’s a breather and I took a chance. It worked for me
Sorry, this is all the footage I have. So this would be a decent learning experience for you to attempt the repair, but there are quite a few critical mistakes that can be made along the way. I’d treat it as a project I guess, and don’t do it if it’s your only vehicle. Maybe a used replacement engine, would be more efficient / cost effective way of repairing it in that case.
@@arfeenmalik8331 I think the guys being pretty humble in the video acting nonchalant but it’s obvious he grew up working on cars and this is not his first rodeo like he said do not attempt if it’s your only vehicle do you have to be meticulous with this engine
@@arfeenmalik8331 rock auto is a great resource for looking up parts, even if you don’t purchase from them. For torque specs I just use google image search until I find a page someone’s copied from a service manual or something.
@@Reggiestreet haha yeah I did grown up fixing things, but it come with a lot of breaking things. So I actually do encourage people to try it. Just have to expect that mistakes are bound to happen. Best way to learn is to do it I say.
I paid $1700 for my 2015 F150 and think I may have to rebuild engine to give me more life out of the 5.0. My truck has 164k miles on it and I barely put 50 miles max on it plus 3 burn outs. Good video.
My 13 with 155k started missing a few months ago. Jumped into it today. 70 ish psi in cylinder 8. CLT test failed out the intake. Scoped number 8. Intake valve profile seemed a little odd. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to see what an engine is going to cost 😢
Just had to do my valves. Cylinder 4 & 8 misfires, low compression. 50 & 70 PSI. Friend works at a machine shop and he said it's 100% failure rate on these valves. They're coming in like clockwork. A handful of mine were worn down to a razor edge and not sealing but all 16 are worn. They showed me valves from other trucks and they're all the same. Every head and motor they've pulled apart from 2011-2016 has worn valves. They think the rear two cylinders go bad first due to a lack of cooling to the rear of the engine and they overheat and wear first before the rest of them.
Did you get an estimate for how much this cost? 2012 owner here... Engine light is coming on and off with Cyclinder 8 Misfire Code. Been to mechanic three times trying to dignois / swap coils and it's the same coding.
So since these valve are all shit, is there a better replacement valve out there? What new valves did you get? I'd hate to replace with the same garbage! My 2014 probably needs this. #8 miss.
Just had the same code. Driver side #8 had a valve that had a pie shaped hole and others recessed. Passenger had 90PSI and did not throw a code. All other cylinders 150PSI + . After replacing all valves on both heads, truck is running fine. Not sure why Ford likes the torque to yield bolts which increase the repair costs. Upon reinstall I had the cam sensors in the wrong spot and had to correct them. Cam sensors will fit in either intake or exhaust, look at the heat shield on the wiring harness that is the exhaust side and closer to the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the video.
Maybe about 16 hours or so. Lots of cleaning to do, and in my case lots of rust. Took a long time to remove the rusted valve cover bolts. Also, lapping in the new valves is not something that can be rushed. Was about 4 hours for disassemble, 4 hours per head to do cleaning and new valves, and 4 hours to reassemble.
@@rust2985 yea my motor has a slight noise at idle to, your video really helps out and I will be doing my truck in my driveway as well Thanks for the video on this
I have this same exact issue...167K miles. I have been told the timing chain on the coyote is supposed to be replaced every 70k. Along with the phasers.
That’s good to hear. This engine reminds me of a Toyota engine in the way it’s designed, but they obviously didn’t test it well enough before shipping it. I’ve seen issues now with the exhaust valves a few times, and strange issues with bottom end noises (on this same engine) and one with oil burning problems they said was cylinder bore wear related…
@@rust2985 yea that’s why I’m waiting till the 2015-2017 5.0s become 2011-2014 5.0 price. I have a 5.4 3V with 197,000 miles getting a timing job as we speak. No present issues just wanted to do the job before issues arise. What’s crazy is the chain guides didn’t break but one was cracked so I was lucky to get in there before it snapped and really screwed the engine! Also doing roller followers and oil pump.
👍 the 5.4 3V gets a bad wrap but they can take a beating. Too bad ford made the timing components weak on them. Anyway, I’d rather change timing crap on a 5.4 than pull heads to replace valves + timing on a 5.0
I just fixed one same way . Low compression on 8 . I pulled the heads and the valves were sharper than razors . I had new valves put in with valve job . New head gaskets . Pull the heads with the exhaust manifolds on and put back same way .
My 2014 5.0 has a p304 cylinder 4 misfire. Ford put a scope in the cylinder and it had pretty bad scoring in cylinder wall. They want to sell me a remanufactured engine for 14,000 canadian. Thinking about pushing it off a cliff
Damn that sucks…
In case you are wandering, why cylinder four and cylinder eight valves always tend to fail, is because your catalytic converters are clogging, which then gives you back pressure and the enormous heat you have at those cylinders, since they are all the way in the back and all the other cylinders Heat will go past that cylinder. Your valves tend to burn from that heat. This will normally happen right around 200,000 km.
Wow my truck is doing the cylinder 8 misfire right on the money at 125,000 miles 😮
@@MakeMoneyTruckingmine too at 137000 miles. Did all the plugs, and did the coil on cylinder 8. Still throwing the code
@@iTzMurphLEE same did full service plus plugs coils about 10 months ago I guess it's remanufactured heads time
4 and 8 have a misfire the shop is talking about a new motor. 190k miles 2011. Maybe just replace the heads and converters?
@@htime78 I just replaced my head with rebuilt ones and my engine works 100%. No more misfire runs smooth just like me.
Mine was cylinder # 4 I’m unique once I pulled head i said let’s do the driver side. Now I’m getting new gen 3 short block an new valves seals an cams. Hey IMO leave the exhaust manifold on just remove the head with exhaust manifold a lot easier for me anyway
@Cyclic Mac You need to watch this guys video you’re valves have receded into the head and it’s causing compression to leak out through the intake valve you need to remove both heads and replace all the intake valves while you’re in there you may want to replace other parts. This guy made a incredible video and he did a really good job it’s not as easy as he makes it sound this guy is a good mechanic but it is not that difficult if you are mechanically inclined. I put in GT cams part of my heads port matched my exhaust manifolds while I was replacing the intake valves I’ve put the project on hold the past six months and periodically clean and clean and clean but as soon as I get it back together I will be posting a video on my channel. Everything is prepped as of right now have all new head gasket’s cam cap bolts etc.
Be nice if ford would get their shit together... this kind of problem makes no sense
Great video brotha. I was planning on using new Dealer valves and lapping them in. It’s great to see someone fix something without have to rely on a machine shop.
I have been searching for hours for video about 5.0 head removal. This video far and away is the best.. I have a cylinder seven misfire and low compression. It was awesome to see what the bad valves actually look like. Supposedly, the replacement valves are not the ones that will wear like that. where did you source all of the Ford parts?
I got everything except for the phaser bolts on Rock Auto. I ordered the phaser bolts from a local ford dealer. For the cam cap bolts, I used grade 10.9 cap head screws from Amazon because they were way cheaper than from Ford.
If you do end up using normal bolts rather than the ones from ford, don’t use the ford torque specs. Follow standard torquing procedure for the size and use threadlocker to be safe I’d say.
Just completed the valve job. Runs beautifully now!
Sweet!
Im surprised to see its that big of an issue, I drive my 14 like I stole it and tow regularly and it just rolled 382,000kms. Doesn't miss a beat and gets good mileage on the highway.
Thanks Video , this is much helpful for 5.0L owner may have same problem. I'm a Ford technician I ve seen this problem only 5.0 L , all back of cylinder head #4, # 8 .
#7 × 2 hoping second time is the charm
I got the same problem, on the scanner say's code p0304, p0301, the mechanic told me is a fire valve, the only question that stay in my mind, is why the codes can't erase with the scanner, because I had knowledge if you erase with the engine off, and the codes come back again even I don't start the engine just the switch on, probably is an electrical failure or do you have the same issue until did the big job?
I've been researching this as my 2012 starred setting misfire on cyl 8, new plugs helped for a work and codes back so km suspecting this. I also resealed the intake as I've had a squealing sound at highway speed that goes away when you change throttle position that I thought might be an intake leak. Have you considered a cracked intake as a cause for the valve wear? I'm still chasing the noise and I'm wondering if there is a common root cause for this engine.
Apparently the 2011-2013 models had weak intake valves or something. Ford changed them later in 2013
Nice work. Mine had the leaking rad hose o-rings that these all get. wonder if the worn valves happen because it had been run low on coolant. #8 and #4 being furthest from the water pump. Might have had air pockets at the back of the heads at one point.
Possible. This truck was abused. The catalytic converters were severely clogged so it had extreme exhaust back pressure and heat. I think that was a contributing factor on the worn valves.
Man. Great video. I’d say one of the toughest things would be understanding what everything is called. That, and being able to record everything to take off and get it back into the right place and the right order.
thank you sir
Did you end up replacing the valve stem seals? The guide on the secondary timing chain for the cam phaser on the driver side broke which snapped the chain. I pulled the left head off and now I’m replacing the valves. They aren’t in bad condition like everyone else is having but I just decided to do it since I have 225k miles. Any help from anyone is appreciated.
Yeah replace all seals when you have it apart. Non worn items it’s ok to just leave if they’re good. No point fixing what isn’t broken.
Hope it went / is going well!
Have the same issue on my 2010 f150 5.4 with 190k miles. Everything I see online is its always cylinder 8. It's in the shop now getting a fuel injector replaced hopefully that helps
Maybe because cylinder 8 runs hottest. Thanks for watching.
Liquid Moly engine flush, trust me. Perform flush EXACTLY as directions state.
Very well made video, you explained everything in understandable terms, I think I have this similar issue in my dads 2013 f150 it has 150,000 miles on it and just got a misfire on cylinder 8 gonna check coils and plugs but I have a feeling I have an intake valve worn down like you did, thanks for the vid
Hey no problem, make sure you do a compression test or leak down test first. You’ll need a long reach adapter for the tester, it’s the one with the extended threads, because the plug hole threads are recessed into the head.
I just hit 150,000 miles 2 days ago on my 13 F150. Now I have the Cyl 8 misfire on the check engine light
Check for the normal misfire causes first… swap ignition coils, injectors, wiring faults, etc.
If it all check out, and there’s still a misfire I’d be doing a compression test.
Good luck :)
This is very common on 2010-2013 5 liter engines. The valves were made from a crappy material and the edges get sharp and dont seal properly. I have a 2013 mustang GT sitting in my front yard right now with all 8 cylinders around 90 psi at 110k miles. I already went thru this on my 2013 F150 and just replaced the engine. So If you are going to do this job. You NEED to do a new melling high volume oil pump, New Water Pump, thermostat housing, Y hose, and O rings for all coolant hoses that are in good shape. If you have high mileage, you also likely need an alternator. You will also need a new Timing Set and cam phasers From FORD ONLY! (latest available design). Get your heads to a machine shop and have the replace all valves, and do a valve job on the seats and surface the heads and clean everything. I would also change out all the rocker arms, valve springs and lifters and dont forget to change out the filter inside the cams and clean out the oil passages in the cams as well as the engine block and heads. if you have a shop do all this work it very likely could cost more than putting a new engine in it. However, you may have to wait for months to get a new gen 1 coyote from Ford. I got a new engine for my F150 from another supplier because I couldnt wait. If you do that make sure they use only FORD timing components and make sure they change every single valve, spring, valve guide, rocker arm, lifter, everything except the cam. All in my F150 engine was about $6500 and cost $2000 in labor to install in 2021. The Ford dealer here charges $200 and hour for labor. This is at least a 20 hour job so thats a good $8000 in labor alone which is about what it cost me to change the engine.
Finally found a video, thanks man, this is gonna help a lot. I have a cylinder 6 misfire. I got the driver side valve cover removed today, and the coolant drained. Hopefully I'll be able to pull the cylinder head tomorrow. Gonna be a long day.
I have the same issue. Did you identify the issue?
@Barien White yeah man, replaced all intake valves. Nothing wrong with the seats or valves, just a lot of carbon build up. I'd def maybe add some seafoam to your oil and then change your oil ~300 miles later to get rid of some of that carbon build up. Wish I would've tried that before doing all that work.
Was the whole motor more quite after this whole job?
amazing this helps alot.
My 2013 f150 with 5 liter started having cylinder 5 compression issues at 80k miles. Some shops tried to sell me a new engine. 50 psi in the cylinder now and it's time to make a move.
Did you end up fixing it.
?*
??
🙏
9:49 Notice that the exhaust valves show progressively more red color when going from front cylinders to back cylinders, I guess indicating increasing temperature when going from front to back.
4 and 8 have a misfire the shop is talking about a new motor. 190k miles 2011. Maybe just replace the heads and converters?
This past week found out my truck with under 115k miles suffered the same fate (#7 misfire). The shop said they thought they saw scoring in that cyl. Does that mean game over with the block and the head repair in this video won't solve my problem? Thanks.
My Wifes F150 has a misfire on number 7.. Ford dealer quoted a new engine.. They say it's cheaper to put in a new motor than fix existing
Dealing with the same issue on my 2014 V8. How did you know it was the intake valve? I'm getting low compression in cylinder 7.
Because it’s not the exhaust valves on these trucks that have a problem. If your truck is not burning any oil and you have low compression it’s going to be your intake valves
Without tearing the engine apart, you have to do a leak down test.
Leak down test, is where you apply compressed air into the spark plug hole. Leak down testers have gauges to determine the amount of air leaking, and you will have to listen for where the air is leaking.
If you hear it in exhaust it’s an exhaust valve, through intake it’s an intake valve, through oil cap then it’s bad rings or scored cylinder or hole
In piston or whatever, and if you hear in the cooling system (bubbling) the. It’s a head gasket or cracked head or sleeve.
Yeah. You are right. On these engines it’s almost always intake valves. The valves are junk.
@@rust2985 Does the intake manifold need to be removed to perform the leak test?
No sir, better to leave it on. Just remove the air filter and listen through the intake. You’ll hear it if it’s leaking
Can you help me out with the bolts? I’m trying to figure out which ones were TTY.
Did you have to send the heads out to get resurfaced?
I didn’t. You can check them with a straight edge and feeler gauges. Most people say you should have them resurfaced every time no matter what. I don’t care, it’s a breather and I took a chance. It worked for me
@@rust2985 A breather meaning that it leaks at the rings?
Thats from it running lean gets to hot trys pull valve through the head
Gotta tackle this soon on my 2012 with around the same kms. Thanks for the video.
How much did the job cost you?
All parts and materials I think about $600 cad
Any chance you have in-depth videos on how to take it all apart? I would love to attempt this as you did. With that said, great video! Thanks!
Sorry, this is all the footage I have.
So this would be a decent learning experience for you to attempt the repair, but there are quite a few critical mistakes that can be made along the way. I’d treat it as a project I guess, and don’t do it if it’s your only vehicle. Maybe a used replacement engine, would be more efficient / cost effective way of repairing it in that case.
@@rust2985 Fair. What resources did you use to help you along your way?
@@arfeenmalik8331 I think the guys being pretty humble in the video acting nonchalant but it’s obvious he grew up working on cars and this is not his first rodeo like he said do not attempt if it’s your only vehicle do you have to be meticulous with this engine
@@arfeenmalik8331 rock auto is a great resource for looking up parts, even if you don’t purchase from them. For torque specs I just use google image search until I find a page someone’s copied from a service manual or something.
@@Reggiestreet haha yeah I did grown up fixing things, but it come with a lot of breaking things. So I actually do encourage people to try it. Just have to expect that mistakes are bound to happen. Best way to learn is to do it I say.
I paid $1700 for my 2015 F150 and think I may have to rebuild engine to give me more life out of the 5.0. My truck has 164k miles on it and I barely put 50 miles max on it plus 3 burn outs. Good video.
I assume you're missing a zero on that price. If you actually paid $1700 even putting a brand new mustang long block you'd be way ahead.
My 13 with 155k started missing a few months ago. Jumped into it today. 70 ish psi in cylinder 8. CLT test failed out the intake. Scoped number 8. Intake valve profile seemed a little odd. Heading to the dealer tomorrow to see what an engine is going to cost 😢
Btw engines and head from ford not available. Not back ordered not discontinued just not available.
Did you replace the lifters too?
Super cool, making it look easy :D
Just had to do my valves. Cylinder 4 & 8 misfires, low compression. 50 & 70 PSI.
Friend works at a machine shop and he said it's 100% failure rate on these valves. They're coming in like clockwork.
A handful of mine were worn down to a razor edge and not sealing but all 16 are worn.
They showed me valves from other trucks and they're all the same. Every head and motor they've pulled apart from 2011-2016 has worn valves.
They think the rear two cylinders go bad first due to a lack of cooling to the rear of the engine and they overheat and wear first before the rest of them.
Yeah, the 5.0 coyote engine is junk in my opinion. Not suitable for a truck.
Did you get an estimate for how much this cost? 2012 owner here... Engine light is coming on and off with Cyclinder 8 Misfire Code. Been to mechanic three times trying to dignois / swap coils and it's the same coding.
I’m curious about the A/C compressor when removing the right side head. Does the A/C compressor have to be completely removed?
Nah you don't need to touch it... The ac compressor bolts to the lower right hand side of the block. :)
@@rust2985 thanks that’s good to hear. Did you end up doing the valves in both heads? Think you only showed the left in your video
So since these valve are all shit, is there a better replacement valve out there? What new valves did you get? I'd hate to replace with the same garbage! My 2014 probably needs this. #8 miss.
I’m sure you can get some sort of upgraded valves. The ones I used were the cheapest I could find on rock auto… I think they were like $4 each :)
Maybe the valves are meant to be softer than the valve seats so that the heads won't be ruined?
Just had the same code. Driver side #8 had a valve that had a pie shaped hole and others recessed. Passenger had 90PSI and did not throw a code. All other cylinders 150PSI + . After replacing all valves on both heads, truck is running fine. Not sure why Ford likes the torque to yield bolts which increase the repair costs. Upon reinstall I had the cam sensors in the wrong spot and had to correct them. Cam sensors will fit in either intake or exhaust, look at the heat shield on the wiring harness that is the exhaust side and closer to the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the video.
No problem. Glad you got it fixed
Great Job ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
How long did the whole job take you?
Maybe about 16 hours or so. Lots of cleaning to do, and in my case lots of rust. Took a long time to remove the rusted valve cover bolts. Also, lapping in the new valves is not something that can be rushed. Was about 4 hours for disassemble, 4 hours per head to do cleaning and new valves, and 4 hours to reassemble.
@@rust2985 sounds good did you motor ever have piston slap or were the pistons wore out
@@Huggyuvfdrffxg piston slap yes a bit. Slight noise at idle. These engines are not designed right.
@@rust2985 yea my motor has a slight noise at idle to, your video really helps out and I will be doing my truck in my driveway as well
Thanks for the video on this
I have this same exact issue...167K miles. I have been told the timing chain on the coyote is supposed to be replaced every 70k. Along with the phasers.
Does this cause to burn oil too?
I believe the second gen 5.0 doesn’t have those issues
That’s good to hear. This engine reminds me of a Toyota engine in the way it’s designed, but they obviously didn’t test it well enough before shipping it. I’ve seen issues now with the exhaust valves a few times, and strange issues with bottom end noises (on this same engine) and one with oil burning problems they said was cylinder bore wear related…
@@rust2985 yea that’s why I’m waiting till the 2015-2017 5.0s become 2011-2014 5.0 price. I have a 5.4 3V with 197,000 miles getting a timing job as we speak. No present issues just wanted to do the job before issues arise. What’s crazy is the chain guides didn’t break but one was cracked so I was lucky to get in there before it snapped and really screwed the engine! Also doing roller followers and oil pump.
👍 the 5.4 3V gets a bad wrap but they can take a beating. Too bad ford made the timing components weak on them. Anyway, I’d rather change timing crap on a 5.4 than pull heads to replace valves + timing on a 5.0