On my 2011 F150 Ecoboost, in addition - Sync system not responding (replaced), seized vacuum pump (replaced), shattered rear window after defrost activated (replaced window assembly), rusted out front brakes/rotors (replaced), engine start up rattle at 35k miles (vehicle traded out at 40k, someone else's problem now). There were some other problems that I'll skip...................
No mention about the intermediate driving shaft, the rear wheel wells rusting out in no time, and look out for bed light gasket rots quick and water leaks in thru it and rots your roof liner before you know it’s happening. I’m on my last Ford truck never again!
I’m the original owner of a 2009 5.4 S/crew FX4 Luxury Package, besides regular maintenance items like belts, brakes, plugs, etc.this is what I’ve had to repair in 13 years now: Passenger side A pillar water leak through the satellite radio antenna when fairly new, then the A/C compressor clutch went out while still under warranty. Had a nice stretch of zero problems for a few years then I had to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold in 2018, 3rd brake light leaked and replaced in 2019, heater fan blower motor resistor in 2021 (would only run on hi speed) and then the heater fan motor itself in 2022. With meticulous engine oil changes the 5.4 still runs quietly so far…Overall I’m pretty pleased with it after 13 years of use considering the questionable reputation of the 5.4 as I haven’t even had the check engine light come on once in all this time.
I have a 2010 FX4 5.4L with 180k.The only problems I've had to fix: 1. replace broken sunroof mechanisms (requires removing the entire headliner) 2. replace water pump and pulleys 3. lift motor to replace exhaust manifolds and extract 6 broken bolts 4. replace cam phasers, timing chains and roller rockers due to $20 broken plastic chain guides (upgraded to cast iron chain tensioners and hi-po oil pump) 5. replace ECM that was coding 6. replace rear taillights due to moisture problems 7. replace AC compressor 8. rebuild blower motor 9. replace console cover due to broken helper spring (wtf) 10. transfer case rebuild Mods: 1. Bilstein performance shocks with 2 inch lift 2. K&N air filter 3. Borla touring exhaust 4. Cross drilled and slotted rotors 5. Tibren load springs 8 grand later...runs like a champ and sounds incredible. Fortunately I can wrench or it would have cost me double. I bought it for 24 grand with 36k miles.
Here's a really neat trick I learned years ago; if you suspect a engine misfire, take a good thick piece of paper and hold it flat up against the tailpipe. If you can see and hear a "put put put" sound then chances are you have a bad spark plug or fuel injector.
The bottom line is computers can make a minor issue one that will ruin your vehicle. I miss the days when there were no computers on trucks and you could work on everything with tools instead of computers
My backup camera failures seem to be tied to the harness at the tailgate being moved around. Also the spedo resting at 40mph after a batter change. A whole new "cluster" I will install myself. Hate to pay the dealer anything seeing how their honesty is never actually reliable but reprogramming the cluster for my current millage, I don't know how to do. Thx for the vid. You guys are my favorite how to people. You're all going to heaven!!!
Also, fuse #27 burns out often, not letting your truck start up if it’s been running for a while. Fuse is prone to BURNING out due to the bad placement of the fuse box. Easy fix to replace the fuse to get home but a fuse box relocation kit is the ticket.
Eventually that fuse is going to melt and short again. Ford has a tech bulletin on this and O’Reillys and some of the auto parts stores sell a kit that you can purchase and easily upgrade your fuse box with the new fuse. The old one was not enough for the current. The TSB has you moving the location of the fuse. Don’t make the mistake of taking your truck to the Ford dealer they’ll charge $1800 and tell you that it was your fuel pump.
Holy shit dude, I’m so happy I found your video. I looked where the fuel canister box is at I see a plug on the end and one of the wires is cut. Gonna rig up some southern ingenuity on this wire and see if this is my problem. Keep doing what you’re doing bud you may have saved me from a rabbit chase.
You need to make a 12th gen video engine specific. Those years had some of Fords main engines in these years. 5.4, 5.0, 6.2, 3.5 eb That's a ton of different problems to look at
Don't forget the A/C evaporator getting clogged with dust and crap, causing weak air flow. And you have to remove the dash to clean it, because a cabin air filter was omitted by the engineers.
My 2011 f150 has 211,000 km and everything including the ac works perfect.it blows so cold that I can’t even use it on full,or I’ll freeze.the heater is also amazing.it’s only ever on low,even in the winter.honestly I love my truck.no complaints about anything
You don't have to remove the dash. Just score 3 lines of a square and flip back the tab you cut in the Evap housing and wash it out gently after applying cleaner. Push it back then Seal it with some good AC duct tape or drain pipe seal tape. Its just a plastic box and isn't thermal. The fan blows through the evap coil so its fine. Garbage design with no cabin filter. Shame on Ford
you guys did a really good job on this video, gotta say. i thought it was well shot and edited. Len was clear and entertaining! much more watchable than your earlier stuff. :)
+sacrenough Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have 2009 with a 4.6 251.000 miles changed oil every year rain or shine. Never had any mayor issues. Has a clicking sound when starting. But runs like a champ.
I would add coolant reservoir leak, and timing chain tensioner too. Fuel door coming loose. Might be a few more im forgetting at the moment. I put a Pioneer headunit on my 2012 XLT 3 years back. No issues ever.
Fuel filter/gauge, windshield wiper switch, rear window(after it shattered) fuel filler door, serpentine belt, water pump, rear driver side door lock motor, back-up camera shifter connectors, water hose ‘o’ rings- but after replacing all that, it’s a dam fine truck!
Add a year since that comment: replaced the coolant system ‘y’ connecter, driveshaft! This had to be ‘made’ for me ; $700. And most recently: the stereo is on the fritz -- oh also, ( I’m sure I’m about to come outta pocket for this) (and it’ only did it one time) the power steering …. I don’t even know what to call it- i think it’s an electric pump(?) / it dosent operate off the belt- here’s a plus: just changed the original brakes ( pads only because the rotors were fine @ 192K miles!
The phasers on the cam tensioners, that’s a 5k repair, turbos leak radiator fluid, and my favorite, AC blend doors are total trash. Spent $1200 to have all for of them replaced with OEM parts and not even 6 months later, you guessed it, driver side and passenger side blend door no longer work. I will never own another for after having this FX4.
I like these! Pretty informative. Think you guys could do a video on the 2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala? That would also cover the 2014-2016 Impala Limited. Thanks!
Bought a used 2013 F-150 FX4 with a 5.0L about a month ago. Everything went ok until I drove up hill and oil pressure light flashed then went back to normal again. I’ve already bought the oil pressure switch for it, but haven’t installed it yet. 100k coming up then I’ll work on all maintenance tune up. I just got to drive some more to check for some underlying issues. Thanks for the video ✌🏽
My 2013 f150 does the oil light thing... seems to happen when the rpm dips low at a stop ... also common when put into reverse... still not are of cause... changing oil pressure sensor dont fix problem
@@jakehodges4602 my 2006 GMC Topkick flatbed has seen MANY MANY MANY of them, between the Focus, Fusion, and the 12th gen F150, i cant say which one is worse
What about the timing chain tensioners going on the 5.4 tritons. The driver's side springs breaking. The front driver's side calipers locking up. The VCT solenoids getting dirty and causing misfires and it to run rough. And the 3rd brake light leaking when it rains and getting the interior soaked. All these are fairly common issues
Awesome brother I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast as well with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
2011 with the 5.0 with 215,000 miles. I had the TCM computer board fail and do something similar to #1 and had #4 occur at 125,000 miles. The TCM cost me around $1200 and the charcoal canister issue was $350.00. The stereo went out which sucked so I put an after market in. Starter went out at 150,000 mikes, the truck starts up so fast those teeth get worn out. Those have been my major repairs since I’ve owned it. I’ve got a friend with the smaller 2009 4.7L v8 at 350,000 miles so I’m still optimistic to get some more good miles out of mine.
Evap canister purge valve, O2 sensor have had to be changed on my 2010. Another common fault is the AC fan blower motor resistor behind the glove box. That's had to be replaced three times. Also watch out for the 4WD hubs trying to engage due to a lack of vacuum. That can be fixed by replacing the $14 blue check valve located against the firewall.
Only problems I have had with my 2012 Ecoboost are coolant line leaks ( both roughly around 125-135k miles where they connect to the overflow tank as well as the turbos), and misfires from worn plugs( between 80-100k each time) Currently A 189k and still running good. Tow a sxs up the mountain quite a bit and am on the throttle all the time too. Great truck.
I have a 2013 5.0. Just search Y connecter coolant hose and O rings! Ford could not fix it in three attempts. I did it myself off a RUclips video and ordered the parts off Amazon. Hasn’t leaked since😎
hey i have a 2012 ecoboost 3.5, i got last summer, and my front right brake was dragging when i got it. i replaced caliber and rotary but later that day it started dragging again. i changed severai times trying to find problems as i went because the diagnostic machines said nothing was wrong at dealerships (went to 3 in 3 different states while working). after several miserable weeks of this i was finnaly told by a guy on the streets that it was the soft rubber hose going from brake line to brake caliber. i replaced both for around $40 and solved the problem. now its working fine and pulls like a ox.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it and with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
if anyone having issues withe 4x4 make sure to check that the vacuum hub, most of these get dirt and or sand really easy and they will not open as the are suppose to. Transfer case is hard for it fail its more than likely tht is something as simple as the vacuum hub
Unfortunately these vehicles need good routine maintenance, mine had over 150,000 miles with only the IMS issue. Oil is the most important issue with the 5.4. Never use 5w-20, when the engine came out 5w-30 was recommended. They changed for gas mileage and it is too thin for the cam phasers when hot.
Yup I just got the po130/po150. Fuse #27 blew and that made it not start but fixed that. I'm putting in a new stut assembly Thursday then I gotta do the new cord
Lead frame recall on 2013 5.0 covered under 150k miles under warranty $1700 job if you miss the 150k mile cutoff. oil pressure sending unit or sensor faulty at 175k miles. I had the purge valve issue. Otherwise, that 5.0 coyote engine is a beast
2013 F 150 4x4 STX 5.0 with 3.73 gears. 225,000 miles and still going for now. Did replace transmission at 180,000 miles due to weekly towing of heavy boat. Normal maintenance other than that. I know the time is near for a new truck. New truck prices just blow me away. I wonder what a new 5.0 motor would cost? If it's even worth it?
Larry Sigers, engine isn’t that costly when you think of a new truck. $7000-ish. Maybe get it rebuilt. My 2014 FX4 has 245,000 km and aside from oil/fuel/windshield/washer fluid/wiper blades/tires it’s all original. Never had any of these issues. It’s now getting everything flushed, new brakes and struts, new filters, hoses & spark plugs and I think I’m swapping gears from 3.73 to 3.31/3.08 since I do mainly highway driving at a set speed.
Modern vehicles and their plethora of electronic sensors & gadgets are HELLA fun, don’t get me wrong, but… also just more stuff to go wrong and keep you coming back to the dealer / shop. Time, money, effort, focus lost. This is why I still drive my 2003 F150. 😁
So basically, get a vehicle that doesn't have a computer. Seems like the miles of wires, faulty sensors, bad programs, and junk plugs and harness are all the problems. Lol, better get you an 85 square body
Yep me too. Y thing on coolant line. Elbow leaking under coolant resivoir. Radio went out. Blower motor. Rear defrost is out. Driver side iwe or vac line. Think rear main leaking now. 250k on it. Runs great besides these things. Ha.
Just fyi a couple things. I've had most of these issues and here were my fixes that differ from the video. 1 misfire. If your Ecoboost is running fine at idle and low speed but misfires when you step hard on the gas you have an issue with the intercooler building moisture and oil. It's an extremely easy fix and if you RUclips Ecoboost wheep whole you will see Many vids on this. You basically drill a very small hole in the bottom of the intercooler. After I did this it took 90 percent of the misfire away and after changing my plugs completely went away. (takes 10 minutes to do even for someone who doesn't know what there doing) 2. The touch screen not working. This is a problem with the ampid modular in the back of the head unit. They aren't cheap but easy to install a new one. Just make sure it's programmed to your truck. 3. Backup camera not working. Mine did crazy things like reversing the image to lines to a black screen. Usaly it would work when you first stay the truck then go haywire lol. Just replace the camera. Super easy but unfortunately on mine I had to replace the Ford logo as well.
This is why trucks don’t need automatics and the useless electronic devices. Get back to the basics. Trucks should be trucks not limousines. A standard transmission a a 6.2l engine that runs on mechanical input rather than a modular engine that has to have a bunch of useless electronics to run.
I think you missed two big ones: 1) IWE/Vaccuum hubs on 4x4 trucks . Mine have gone out twice on both sides. 2) water pumps. My water bump exploded after 30K miles.
I've put 140k miles on my 2011 f150 ecoboost, very few problems, 2 purge selonoids, regular tuneups, 4wd actuator, and a thermostat, and basic parts that just ware out like brakes and rotors. Now my old 2006 f150 was a different story.
2010 F150 5.4 Triton Ecoboost V8 101,000 miles. New spark plugs by Ford at 100K - still have a slight rough idle (no codes/check engine light) and after it sets for a day, fuel smell outside for a few minutes. Mileage intown/road is around 12-13 mpg, and has been forever. Thoughts? (I'm second owner, and have had it since around 40K miles. It does have a K&N air filter.
My 09 f150 platinum won't change where the air blows from. It was stuck on the feet so I changed the actuator, but it still wouldn't change. I have removed the actuator and moved the gears by hand to get the air out of the dash vents.
13 f150 ecoboost 3.5 I put weep hole it helps performance exhaust major help on top end rubber tips on coil packs melted on spark plugs and misfired bad but then MAF and other two no changes
i’ve had many problems with my 2011 f150 such as oil issues also with the 02 sensor and the timing chain. second time it’s went bad along with the lifters
Same here man 2011 f150 and mine is currently in the shop from my timing chain snapping while I was driving. Turns out my driver side block is bad. This is days after I replaced a 02 sensor
Upon repair of the O2 sensor did the ever explain the cause of failure? I believe mine comes and goes and that the issue is caused by sagging heat shield sitting on top of it due to ac drain dripping into/on it weighing it down. When my VCTs were repaired at 90.000 miles they said my 02 retarded and needed replaced but then said computer flashing fixed it. So i’m still chasing the ghost possibly electrical related due to water entry in 3rd brake light/XM satellite antenna leaking down to pcm/fuses etc. She’s payed for and still runs.
@@SteveWilsonWCFurniture you should have some service on the driveshaft, is really easy DIY and save some money just buy the kit at Ford or just buy grease( look for videos ) is super easy and that will fix your problem, I used to have that problem.
2013 4x4 5.0 I bought it used 48K. I use motor craft oil and change every 9k. No motor issues. now @ 150k. Front breaks go bad every 20k no biggie. Shocks have been replaced 3 times getting ready to do them again. Now the bad radio went out at 90k aftermarket fix. Both front window motors went out within a month of each other. AC compressor stopped working around 95k. Blower motor went out around 115k. The y pipe for the coolant has been replaced twice. Put a leveling kit on the front and things got fun.bad bearing hub and Bad actuator, then bad CV shaft. Replaced both sides. 8k later new actuator again new CV shaft and new vacuum lines and vacuum solenoids. Now it’s all bad again. For some reason the vacuum isn’t fully disengaging causing the actuator to be destroyed. And the drivers side CV shaft seal keeps leaking and tearing up the boot. I do not off road or drive in 4x4 often I never switch going faster than 10mph. My leveling kit was switched from 2” spacers to ranchero plus 2” shocks after the first issues. Going back stock level now. Not sure the leveling is the issue now. But interior electronics are my biggest disappointments. I feel like if I never leveled the front I may not have had these issues. As far as the breaks go it’s always the drivers side. I’ve replaced the rotors 3 times and replaced the entire shoe it’s always got a dusty rim... also ball joints upper and lower have been replaced. Both upper and lower control arms. And tie rods.
Another common issue with these trucks are broken spring in the strut assembly assembly and the third taillight above the back window after a few years, leaks water into the back seat area.
All the things you mentioned A1 is true my daddy was a Ford man all his life so I would follow his footstep but for products today I'll start being a big headache only thing that Ford F-150 XLT 2008 that I own is good enough to just ride up the street to the store and back home and you also forgot to mention that the steering will start getting stiff and you will have to replace that as well
Had an issue with my 2017 5.0 Coyote with the 6 speed tranny with a 4x4 HD Tow package. The Torque Converter failed...... Only thing I ever towed was a small hotdog cart......
dealerships will NOT completely fix the problem with the trans. the only way to completely fix it is to replace the leadframe with the updated version and THEN reprogram the trans. what about leaky sunroofs and 3rd brake lights that rusts out the rockers? what about the brake issue with many of these year trucks? theres a lot more serious problems than the my ford touch issue...
+Men, Toys, and Outdoors Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
I have had nothing but major problems with my 2014 f 150 fx 4x4. I quit buying American made vehicles in 1982. Now I remember why.i have put 10,000. Dollar's in repairs. I dumping this vehicle and going back to Toyota. Plastic heard in the air diversion system. Rack and pinion that can't be greased failed after 6 years. Transmission sensor currently been replaced. I'm well ng this to carvana and taking my losses. I can't afford to retire with an American vehicle on my property.
My A/C decides itself when it feels like turning on and off and my 12v cigarette lighter plugs take turns not working , my lock and unlock button on my key works some days and not others. I'm guessing the electrical wiring or modulators are going bad as today my truck wouldn't turn over when I tried to leave the gas station turning the check engine light on saying secondary ignition coil a and b are not working so I replaced them all and I still had the same problem until I located the ignition fuse, unplugged it and put it back in then I found the ignition module and followed the wiring harness down wiggling it and then tried to start the truck and it worked like nothing ever happened. I'm glad It works but now I'm worried my truck could catch on fire at any time with whatever weird electrical faults are going on
There's also the fact that there is no in cab air filter and the air inlets are under the driver and passenger seat with nothing stopping trash and dirt from getting sucked into your HVAC system.
I'm having a weird issue with my 2013 f150 platinum 5.0l it will randomly shut off and say low oil pressure it only dose it when I go into reverse and stop and it's idling weird
I have a 2014 eco 3.5 XLT and it's running great at 75k. Two days ago I did a full tune up(spark plugs, flushes, front/rear diff's etc and it's running smooth as silk. It's paid off and i have no plans of trading it in for the new ones.
i have a 2009 f150 , 4.6 ltr triton v8, periodically if i am on cruise control or just cruing inbetween 60 and 80 and go to press on the gas pedal the the truck sputters and feels like its flooding itself, to clear it i have to push the gas pedal hard and it clears itself
The biggest PITA for me has been the optional electric sliding rear window with the defrost. The defrost has went out on me three times now - two under warranty, this last time on my dime, which I'm not going to pay for yet. Sucks, because the circuit also includes the heated mirrors, so neither system works now. And Ford won't recall this!
Same here mine flickers on and off and never works correctly, I eventually gave up on it because I have a bed cap and the back cab window rarely gets enough ice on it to matter.
You can access the wiring for the rear window defrost behind the rear seat on passenger side and place jumper on it. Then your heated mirrors will work. Had same problem and since I never really needed the rear window defrost, this was the best option. Think there is a You tube video showing this.
Its worth worth noting for any owner of this truck. This f150 ecoboost does not have a power steering reservoir for fluid The truck has an electronic rack and pinion, steering. If your truck need alignment guess what you'll need to replace the entire rack amd pinion. It'll cost you 2500 to 3500 from a dealership. This is a dealer part, repair shops will charge you way more. My stepfather has an 2014 f150 alt ecoboost 3.5 he had to get this replaced from a dealer.
Good Tips, my 2013 f150 with the 5.0 blew a fuse for the fuel pump, is this a sign of the pump getting weak, I heard Ford knows of the wires to the pump being under sized, any help would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻
The most parts ive ever threw at a vehicle, is a Ford.😒 I currently own a Toyota, Ford and Chevy. Ford gives me the most problems. Thanks for the information 👍
Considering trading in my 09 GMC Canyon for a ‘14 f-150 3.5 V6 ecoboost. Just looking for a bigger rig as my family has gotten a lot bigger since I originally bought the canyon.
It should be noted that if the purge solenoid fails it won't set the cel and the vacuum pressure can implode the gas tank and even rupture, spilling gas. Bad bad bad on Ford. Chevy does purge solenoid failures in a much healthier way.
I have a question The low oil warning light, on off, on off on off at low idle ! I have changed oil pressure sensor Oil changed Still happening I do hear it start to clacking clack after a moment of the Warning light appears and then it goes away with the warring light? Is this the oil pump going out?
My truck doesn't randomly downshift. But when I step on the gas hard, like when I'm merging onto a highway, it downshifts really hard. I'm used to it, but anyone who hasn't driven it before is startled by it. Is this possibly related to the transmission recall?
Amazing! Two of the problems you mentioned I have and now get to determine how to fix them: Backup camera not working and the solenoid issue. Much appreciated and I hope you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year sir.
hi nice video i hav a ford f150 2009 i put new coils plugs map censor 'i have a growl noise at 45 to 50 miles per hour 'please help' could it be the pump in the tank thanks.
awesome thanks, but i can't find any videos about the "14' f150 driver side manual recliner not working" i keep getting power seat videos, nothing about manual seats? would you know of any? thanks.
Don’t forget about timing chain chains in the eco boost or 5.4. Manifold leaks or crack even the v10 do it. Plus the cam phasers as well. Or if want to get to the diesel trucks like 6.4 are known to catch fire
2012 f-150 fx4 3.5 135,000 only problem I ever had was the transmission output speed sensor, replaced it no problems. the syncing to a phone was the other all I did was took out the fuse even though it was good replaced it with a new one and that’s it never had another problem with it. Just keep up with maintenance on it very important. I also put 91-94 premium gas always. Oh yeah don’t go by fords lifetime transmission just change out the transmission oil at every 60-75,000
Appreciate this video, unfortunately my issue is not one of the top 5. My 2012 Ford F-150 5.0 has a no start issue. It's cranking over, no issued with fuse 27, I swapped the ignition and fuel relays no change. I pulled the coils and it's sparking grounded. Turning over the RPM registers, so no crank sensor issue and I hear a whir when powering up the vehicle and can smell fuel under the hood after failed start up attempt, so assume the fuel pump is working. I also check the passenger kick panel for no connection. I picked put Autel code reader and all I got is a very small emissions systems issue. Hope the 1A Auto team can help!
It still is very likely fuse #27. The fuse does not always blow, but more often than not the connector it is pressed into is burned on one side and essentially killing continuity. It's pretty easy to see if this is the case, as the connector and/or the fuse leg itself will be burned or even melted from heat caused by a loose connection. If this is what has happened, it acts just like a blown fuse and the pump will not come on, resulting in the engine turning over, but not firing for lack of fuel. If the connector (or fuse leg) is not totally melted off, you can often clean it up with a small flat file or burnishing tool and then make sure both sides of the connectors are pushed back together for the tightest fit that you can make happen without breaking things. This is why the problem is sometimes intermittent at first and then gets worse. If the fuse leg is melted, it will need to be replaced. If the connector is no good, it will need to be replaced, or some fancy surgery will need to happen.
0:14 Transmission Recall
0:56 MyFord Touch Head Unit
2:42 O2 Sensors PO130 PO150
3:53 Canister Purge Solenoid
4:54 Engine Misfire
Reached out to Ford for my 2010 on the safety and stated there was no recall. Then went online and also do not see a recall notice.
Misfire
On my 2011 F150 Ecoboost, in addition - Sync system not responding (replaced), seized vacuum pump (replaced), shattered rear window after defrost activated (replaced window assembly), rusted out front brakes/rotors (replaced), engine start up rattle at 35k miles (vehicle traded out at 40k, someone else's problem now). There were some other problems that I'll skip...................
No mention about the intermediate driving shaft, the rear wheel wells rusting out in no time, and look out for bed light gasket rots quick and water leaks in thru it and rots your roof liner before you know it’s happening. I’m on my last Ford truck never again!
Engine Misfire - Intercooler has oil/water pooled in bottom. Hole can be drilled to drain and fix misfire problem.
Shout out to this guy for also helping deaf people understand this video.
I’m the original owner of a 2009 5.4 S/crew FX4 Luxury Package, besides regular maintenance items like belts, brakes, plugs, etc.this is what I’ve had to repair in 13 years now: Passenger side A pillar water leak through the satellite radio antenna when fairly new, then the A/C compressor clutch went out while still under warranty. Had a nice stretch of zero problems for a few years then I had to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold in 2018, 3rd brake light leaked and replaced in 2019, heater fan blower motor resistor in 2021 (would only run on hi speed) and then the heater fan motor itself in 2022. With meticulous engine oil changes the 5.4 still runs quietly so far…Overall I’m pretty pleased with it after 13 years of use considering the questionable reputation of the 5.4 as I haven’t even had the check engine light come on once in all this time.
You forgot to mention if your truck cranks but wont start to check fuse #27, blown fuse or burned connections.
Happened to me a few months ago
Exact same thing happened to me I worried that I had to get a new fuel pump or a part fuel related, thankful for the ford forums
Here here!
2014 5.0 same thing at 80k
Yep happened to me on my 2014
I have a 2010 FX4 5.4L with 180k.The only problems I've had to fix:
1. replace broken sunroof mechanisms (requires removing the entire headliner)
2. replace water pump and pulleys
3. lift motor to replace exhaust manifolds and extract 6 broken bolts
4. replace cam phasers, timing chains and roller rockers due to $20 broken plastic chain guides (upgraded to cast iron chain tensioners and hi-po oil pump)
5. replace ECM that was coding
6. replace rear taillights due to moisture problems
7. replace AC compressor
8. rebuild blower motor
9. replace console cover due to broken helper spring (wtf)
10. transfer case rebuild
Mods:
1. Bilstein performance shocks with 2 inch lift
2. K&N air filter
3. Borla touring exhaust
4. Cross drilled and slotted rotors
5. Tibren load springs
8 grand later...runs like a champ and sounds incredible. Fortunately I can wrench or it would have cost me double. I bought it for 24 grand with 36k miles.
Here's a really neat trick I learned years ago; if you suspect a engine misfire, take a good thick piece of paper and hold it flat up against the tailpipe. If you can see and hear a "put put put" sound then chances are you have a bad spark plug or fuel injector.
+Jonathon Haug Thanks for the tip!
actually learned this in school. it’s literally called the paper test. you have that back pressure, look into an ignition miss
Or mkre simply you just look for a p03xx code.
The bottom line is computers can make a minor issue one that will ruin your vehicle. I miss the days when there were no computers on trucks and you could work on everything with tools instead of computers
My backup camera failures seem to be tied to the harness at the tailgate being moved around. Also the spedo resting at 40mph after a batter change. A whole new "cluster" I will install myself. Hate to pay the dealer anything seeing how their honesty is never actually reliable but reprogramming the cluster for my current millage, I don't know how to do. Thx for the vid. You guys are my favorite how to people. You're all going to heaven!!!
Also, fuse #27 burns out often, not letting your truck start up if it’s been running for a while. Fuse is prone to BURNING out due to the bad placement of the fuse box. Easy fix to replace the fuse to get home but a fuse box relocation kit is the ticket.
Happened to me a few months ago
We just checked it and that wasnt it, took it to the dealer ship and nothing
Eventually that fuse is going to melt and short again. Ford has a tech bulletin on this and O’Reillys and some of the auto parts stores sell a kit that you can purchase and easily upgrade your fuse box with the new fuse. The old one was not enough for the current. The TSB has you moving the location of the fuse. Don’t make the mistake of taking your truck to the Ford dealer they’ll charge $1800 and tell you that it was your fuel pump.
Holy shit dude, I’m so happy I found your video. I looked where the fuel canister box is at I see a plug on the end and one of the wires is cut. Gonna rig up some southern ingenuity on this wire and see if this is my problem. Keep doing what you’re doing bud you may have saved me from a rabbit chase.
You need to make a 12th gen video engine specific. Those years had some of Fords main engines in these years.
5.4, 5.0, 6.2, 3.5 eb
That's a ton of different problems to look at
2009/2010 4.6 V8
BTW I watched the video on the Door lock removal, great job helped me all the way Thank you!
+John Heath Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Don't forget the A/C evaporator getting clogged with dust and crap, causing weak air flow. And you have to remove the dash to clean it, because a cabin air filter was omitted by the engineers.
My 2011 f150 has 211,000 km and everything including the ac works perfect.it blows so cold that I can’t even use it on full,or I’ll freeze.the heater is also amazing.it’s only ever on low,even in the winter.honestly I love my truck.no complaints about anything
@@jakejohnson9827 That's literally every Truck now. Fords retain more of the work truck feel then Dodge or Chevy
You don't have to remove the dash. Just score 3 lines of a square and flip back the tab you cut in the Evap housing and wash it out gently after applying cleaner. Push it back then Seal it with some good AC duct tape or drain pipe seal tape. Its just a plastic box and isn't thermal. The fan blows through the evap coil so its fine. Garbage design with no cabin filter. Shame on Ford
you guys did a really good job on this video, gotta say. i thought it was well shot and edited. Len was clear and entertaining! much more watchable than your earlier stuff. :)
+sacrenough Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is my favorite verhicle problem guy to watch.
I have 2009 with a 4.6 251.000 miles changed oil every year rain or shine. Never had any mayor issues. Has a clicking sound when starting. But runs like a champ.
I would add coolant reservoir leak, and timing chain tensioner too. Fuel door coming loose. Might be a few more im forgetting at the moment. I put a Pioneer headunit on my 2012 XLT 3 years back. No issues ever.
Fuel filter/gauge, windshield wiper switch, rear window(after it shattered) fuel filler door, serpentine belt, water pump, rear driver side door lock motor, back-up camera shifter connectors, water hose ‘o’ rings- but after replacing all that, it’s a dam fine truck!
Oh yeah- tire pressure sensors too
+Zane Seligman Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Add a year since that comment: replaced the coolant system ‘y’ connecter, driveshaft! This had to be ‘made’ for me ; $700. And most recently: the stereo is on the fritz -- oh also, ( I’m sure I’m about to come outta pocket for this) (and it’ only did it one time) the power steering …. I don’t even know what to call it- i think it’s an electric pump(?) / it dosent operate off the belt- here’s a plus: just changed the original brakes ( pads only because the rotors were fine @ 192K miles!
But it IS paid off finally! Lol So that 3 ton mess is ALL mine!! :)
How about the blend door actuator? I always got problems with mine 2014 F-150. Have to replace them 2 time every year.
The phasers on the cam tensioners, that’s a 5k repair, turbos leak radiator fluid, and my favorite, AC blend doors are total trash. Spent $1200 to have all for of them replaced with OEM parts and not even 6 months later, you guessed it, driver side and passenger side blend door no longer work. I will never own another for after having this FX4.
Rear sliding glass defroster shattering back glass. My rear defroster quit working, so I pulled the fuse to be safe.
+clay1351 Thanks for the feedback!
I like these! Pretty informative. Think you guys could do a video on the 2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala? That would also cover the 2014-2016 Impala Limited. Thanks!
+Evan Melton We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
You could do a top 1,000 common problems list and still miss some.
Bought a used 2013 F-150 FX4 with a 5.0L about a month ago. Everything went ok until I drove up hill and oil pressure light flashed then went back to normal again. I’ve already bought the oil pressure switch for it, but haven’t installed it yet. 100k coming up then I’ll work on all maintenance tune up. I just got to drive some more to check for some underlying issues. Thanks for the video ✌🏽
+Bone684 Thanks for the feedback!
My 2013 f150 does the oil light thing... seems to happen when the rpm dips low at a stop ... also common when put into reverse... still not are of cause... changing oil pressure sensor dont fix problem
My 2000 f150 still runs great and drives very good. Sounds like it might be smart to just keep it for now . . .
I think it also has a problem with the heated tailgate. It is really cold when you're pushing that Ford to the side of the road lol.
I gave a thumbs up even though I'm a Ford guy because damnit thats just funny
Lets be honest when have y’all ever seen a Ford on the side of the road?
@@jakehodges4602 my 2006 GMC Topkick flatbed has seen MANY MANY MANY of them, between the Focus, Fusion, and the 12th gen F150, i cant say which one is worse
Heated tailgates are for the Ford lovin' hotties at winter bonfire parties ;)
What about the timing chain tensioners going on the 5.4 tritons. The driver's side springs breaking. The front driver's side calipers locking up. The VCT solenoids getting dirty and causing misfires and it to run rough. And the 3rd brake light leaking when it rains and getting the interior soaked. All these are fairly common issues
I love my 2013 5.0 F-150 with 195000 miles on it
+Terry Terrill Thanks for checking us out!
are you having or had issue with your reverse cam? when you put it in reverse it goes black. If you did, what was your fix?
Awesome brother I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast as well with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
any problems?
2011 with the 5.0 with 215,000 miles. I had the TCM computer board fail and do something similar to #1 and had #4 occur at 125,000 miles. The TCM cost me around $1200 and the charcoal canister issue was $350.00. The stereo went out which sucked so I put an after market in. Starter went out at 150,000 mikes, the truck starts up so fast those teeth get worn out. Those have been my major repairs since I’ve owned it. I’ve got a friend with the smaller 2009 4.7L v8 at 350,000 miles so I’m still optimistic to get some more good miles out of mine.
Evap canister purge valve, O2 sensor have had to be changed on my 2010. Another common fault is the AC fan blower motor resistor behind the glove box. That's had to be replaced three times. Also watch out for the 4WD hubs trying to engage due to a lack of vacuum. That can be fixed by replacing the $14 blue check valve located against the firewall.
Should also talk about most common o ring failure on the y or t connection to coolent container
Best fix: use 1A Auto to get the parts to fix that Ford good enough to send it down the road and buy a Toyota! That worked good for me.
MotownVideo Thanks for watching!
If I were to buy a 1/2 ton now I'd buy a new Tundra, old design and all. What price contentment?
Only problems I have had with my 2012 Ecoboost are coolant line leaks ( both roughly around 125-135k miles where they connect to the overflow tank as well as the turbos), and misfires from worn plugs( between 80-100k each time) Currently A 189k and still running good. Tow a sxs up the mountain quite a bit and am on the throttle all the time too. Great truck.
My coolant exploded on me like a week ago and had transmission sensor problems and bad oil pump and new steering rack
For my 2013 5.0 ford
I have a 2013 5.0. Just search Y connecter coolant hose and
O rings! Ford could not fix it in three attempts. I did it myself off a RUclips video and ordered the parts off Amazon. Hasn’t leaked since😎
hey i have a 2012 ecoboost 3.5, i got last summer, and my front right brake was dragging when i got it.
i replaced caliber and rotary but later that day it started dragging again.
i changed severai times trying to find problems as i went because the diagnostic machines said nothing was wrong at dealerships (went to 3 in 3 different states while working).
after several miserable weeks of this i was finnaly told by a guy on the streets that it was the soft rubber hose going from brake line to brake caliber.
i replaced both for around $40 and solved the problem.
now its working fine and pulls like a ox.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it and with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
+CJ Colvin Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto You're welcome brother.
if anyone having issues withe 4x4 make sure to check that the vacuum hub, most of these get dirt and or sand really easy and they will not open as the are suppose to. Transfer case is hard for it fail its more than likely tht is something as simple as the vacuum hub
Unfortunately these vehicles need good routine maintenance, mine had over 150,000 miles with only the IMS issue. Oil is the most important issue with the 5.4. Never use 5w-20, when the engine came out 5w-30 was recommended. They changed for gas mileage and it is too thin for the cam phasers when hot.
Yup I just got the po130/po150. Fuse #27 blew and that made it not start but fixed that. I'm putting in a new stut assembly Thursday then I gotta do the new cord
I couldn't find the download for the rear camera issue. Is there a link you can provide? Thank you
I have a 2011 Ford F-150 no issues yet
+Cole Kitten Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Lead frame recall on 2013 5.0 covered under 150k miles under warranty $1700 job if you miss the 150k mile cutoff. oil pressure sending unit or sensor faulty at 175k miles. I had the purge valve issue. Otherwise, that 5.0 coyote engine is a beast
Do you have to have a problem with transmission to have lead frame replaced under warranty or is it covered regardless?
Nailed it. Just replaced the oil pickup sensor at 182,000
EPAS (steering rack)
Fuse 27
Water pump
Oil pressure sensor
That shimmy shake move for misfires is legendary bro 😂😂😊
Forgot the fuel pump fuse relocation crap and the rear window leaking.
My 2010 f150 does this and it pisses me off
What about the rear window randomly shattering and "ford has never heard of it". It sucks trying to hook up on a trailer in the plants
@@JoelMannerino1 happened to me
Lash Adjusters
372,000 miles
2009 4.6 3v
the unicorn
2013 F 150 4x4 STX 5.0 with 3.73 gears. 225,000 miles and still going for now. Did replace transmission at 180,000 miles due to weekly towing of heavy boat. Normal maintenance other than that. I know the time is near for a new truck. New truck prices just blow me away. I wonder what a new 5.0 motor would cost? If it's even worth it?
Larry Sigers, engine isn’t that costly when you think of a new truck. $7000-ish. Maybe get it rebuilt.
My 2014 FX4 has 245,000 km and aside from oil/fuel/windshield/washer fluid/wiper blades/tires it’s all original. Never had any of these issues. It’s now getting everything flushed, new brakes and struts, new filters, hoses & spark plugs and I think I’m swapping gears from 3.73 to 3.31/3.08 since I do mainly highway driving at a set speed.
5k easily, but that's a hell of a lot less expensive than a new truck.
Your boat is holding water under the deck. Get rid of the boat, not the Ford
Modern vehicles and their plethora of electronic sensors & gadgets are HELLA fun, don’t get me wrong, but… also just more stuff to go wrong and keep you coming back to the dealer / shop. Time, money, effort, focus lost.
This is why I still drive my 2003 F150. 😁
So basically, get a vehicle that doesn't have a computer. Seems like the miles of wires, faulty sensors, bad programs, and junk plugs and harness are all the problems. Lol, better get you an 85 square body
Ain't no one truck better than another they all have their mulligans.
True true. We just gotta keep our fingers crossed whenever we own whichever one we choose.
I got a 2012 FX4. so far, my blower motor resistor went out. $15 later, and done. :)
Have u owned a 2015 Chevy?
they cost way too much for these kind of issues
Consumers are the test dummys.
you could probably add the blower motor, mines gone bad twice now.. but definitely the O2 sensors made the list for sure 👍
Thought I would see the oil pressure sensor in here.
Just bought a 2010, and for top 5 problems, none of these sound all that bad compared to the chevy trax I got out of!
195,000 miles on my 2012 5.0. Purge valve is the only mentioned issue I’ve had.
+dustinrolla Thanks for checking us out!
Yep me too. Y thing on coolant line. Elbow leaking under coolant resivoir. Radio went out. Blower motor. Rear defrost is out. Driver side iwe or vac line. Think rear main leaking now. 250k on it. Runs great besides these things. Ha.
Just fyi a couple things. I've had most of these issues and here were my fixes that differ from the video. 1 misfire. If your Ecoboost is running fine at idle and low speed but misfires when you step hard on the gas you have an issue with the intercooler building moisture and oil. It's an extremely easy fix and if you RUclips Ecoboost wheep whole you will see Many vids on this. You basically drill a very small hole in the bottom of the intercooler. After I did this it took 90 percent of the misfire away and after changing my plugs completely went away. (takes 10 minutes to do even for someone who doesn't know what there doing)
2. The touch screen not working. This is a problem with the ampid modular in the back of the head unit. They aren't cheap but easy to install a new one. Just make sure it's programmed to your truck.
3. Backup camera not working. Mine did crazy things like reversing the image to lines to a black screen. Usaly it would work when you first stay the truck then go haywire lol. Just replace the camera. Super easy but unfortunately on mine I had to replace the Ford logo as well.
This is why trucks don’t need automatics and the useless electronic devices. Get back to the basics. Trucks should be trucks not limousines. A standard transmission a a 6.2l engine that runs on mechanical input rather than a modular engine that has to have a bunch of useless electronics to run.
I think you missed two big ones:
1) IWE/Vaccuum hubs on 4x4 trucks . Mine have gone out twice on both sides.
2) water pumps. My water bump exploded after 30K miles.
Amen i had my 4x4 vacuum replaced at 40 k and just had my water pump go out at 85k
Ford baby! 😂
Dorman Products makes a good replacement for the IWEs that don’t use vacuum. They sell revised ford ones that use vacuum too (separate part numbers)
best gen of f-150
these are GOAT
I've put 140k miles on my 2011 f150 ecoboost, very few problems, 2 purge selonoids, regular tuneups, 4wd actuator, and a thermostat, and basic parts that just ware out like brakes and rotors. Now my old 2006 f150 was a different story.
+jg b Thanks for the feedback!
Considering buying same one with 110,000 for $17,000.00. Are you still happy with yours?
Don’t forget about the water pump on the 5.0s
+5_Point_Go Thanks for the feedback!
And the 1st gen 3.5 ecoboosts
What year and does it fail?
When does that need to be replaced?
I had that problem, water pump went out while on vacation. 5.0
2010 F150 5.4 Triton Ecoboost V8 101,000 miles. New spark plugs by Ford at 100K - still have a slight rough idle (no codes/check engine light) and after it sets for a day, fuel smell outside for a few minutes. Mileage intown/road is around 12-13 mpg, and has been forever. Thoughts? (I'm second owner, and have had it since around 40K miles. It does have a K&N air filter.
My 09 f150 platinum won't change where the air blows from. It was stuck on the feet so I changed the actuator, but it still wouldn't change. I have removed the actuator and moved the gears by hand to get the air out of the dash vents.
13 f150 ecoboost 3.5 I put weep hole it helps performance exhaust major help on top end rubber tips on coil packs melted on spark plugs and misfired bad but then MAF and other two no changes
i’ve had many problems with my 2011 f150 such as oil issues also with the 02 sensor and the timing chain. second time it’s went bad along with the lifters
Same here man 2011 f150 and mine is currently in the shop from my timing chain snapping while I was driving. Turns out my driver side block is bad. This is days after I replaced a 02 sensor
What engine did it had.
Upon repair of the O2 sensor did the ever explain the cause of failure? I believe mine comes and goes and that the issue is caused by sagging heat shield sitting on top of it due to ac drain dripping into/on it weighing it down. When my VCTs were repaired at 90.000 miles they said my 02 retarded and needed replaced but then said computer flashing fixed it. So i’m still chasing the ghost possibly electrical related due to water entry in 3rd brake light/XM satellite antenna leaking down to pcm/fuses etc. She’s payed for and still runs.
Mine vibrates going down the road does yours?
@@SteveWilsonWCFurniture you should have some service on the driveshaft, is really easy DIY and save some money just buy the kit at Ford or just buy grease( look for videos ) is super easy and that will fix your problem, I used to have that problem.
2013 4x4 5.0 I bought it used 48K. I use motor craft oil and change every 9k. No motor issues. now @ 150k. Front breaks go bad every 20k no biggie. Shocks have been replaced 3 times getting ready to do them again. Now the bad radio went out at 90k aftermarket fix. Both front window motors went out within a month of each other. AC compressor stopped working around 95k. Blower motor went out around 115k. The y pipe for the coolant has been replaced twice. Put a leveling kit on the front and things got fun.bad bearing hub and Bad actuator, then bad CV shaft. Replaced both sides. 8k later new actuator again new CV shaft and new vacuum lines and vacuum solenoids. Now it’s all bad again. For some reason the vacuum isn’t fully disengaging causing the actuator to be destroyed. And the drivers side CV shaft seal keeps leaking and tearing up the boot. I do not off road or drive in 4x4 often I never switch going faster than 10mph. My leveling kit was switched from 2” spacers to ranchero plus 2” shocks after the first issues. Going back stock level now. Not sure the leveling is the issue now. But interior electronics are my biggest disappointments. I feel like if I never leveled the front I may not have had these issues. As far as the breaks go it’s always the drivers side. I’ve replaced the rotors 3 times and replaced the entire shoe it’s always got a dusty rim... also ball joints upper and lower have been replaced. Both upper and lower control arms. And tie rods.
That sounds like aGM truck. I’m drive my truck off road all the time and never replaced any suspension or driveline parts. I have 150k on my truck.
Another common issue with these trucks are broken spring in the strut assembly assembly and the third taillight above the back window after a few years, leaks water into the back seat area.
I think I'll hold onto my 2000 Ranger.
Ford Flippin' RANGER!!!
Danger ranger
All the things you mentioned A1 is true my daddy was a Ford man all his life so I would follow his footstep but for products today I'll start being a big headache only thing that Ford F-150 XLT 2008 that I own is good enough to just ride up the street to the store and back home and you also forgot to mention that the steering will start getting stiff and you will have to replace that as well
Had an issue with my 2017 5.0 Coyote with the 6 speed tranny with a 4x4 HD Tow package. The Torque Converter failed...... Only thing I ever towed was a small hotdog cart......
dealerships will NOT completely fix the problem with the trans. the only way to completely fix it is to replace the leadframe with the updated version and THEN reprogram the trans.
what about leaky sunroofs and 3rd brake lights that rusts out the rockers?
what about the brake issue with many of these year trucks?
theres a lot more serious problems than the my ford touch issue...
Just replaced my rear view camera with 1a product which solved the issue. and now i see this. That touch screen is a major flaw also.
+Men, Toys, and Outdoors Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
I have had nothing but major problems with my 2014 f 150 fx 4x4. I quit buying American made vehicles in 1982. Now I remember why.i have put 10,000. Dollar's in repairs. I dumping this vehicle and going back to Toyota. Plastic heard in the air diversion system. Rack and pinion that can't be greased failed after 6 years. Transmission sensor currently been replaced. I'm well ng this to carvana and taking my losses. I can't afford to retire with an American vehicle on my property.
+kina lee Thanks for the feedback!
If you quit buying American made in 82, how is it you have a 2014?
So to sum all of this up, f150 was a PHENOMENAL truck
What are some normal issues that any f150 owner can fix?
Rocker panel rust for me. Also ball joints at 110k miles and AC pump.
My A/C decides itself when it feels like turning on and off and my 12v cigarette lighter plugs take turns not working , my lock and unlock button on my key works some days and not others. I'm guessing the electrical wiring or modulators are going bad as today my truck wouldn't turn over when I tried to leave the gas station turning the check engine light on saying secondary ignition coil a and b are not working so I replaced them all and I still had the same problem until I located the ignition fuse, unplugged it and put it back in then I found the ignition module and followed the wiring harness down wiggling it and then tried to start the truck and it worked like nothing ever happened. I'm glad It works but now I'm worried my truck could catch on fire at any time with whatever weird electrical faults are going on
How to replace vacuum pump on a f150 2013 eco boost thank you!
There's also the fact that there is no in cab air filter and the air inlets are under the driver and passenger seat with nothing stopping trash and dirt from getting sucked into your HVAC system.
Those are air outlets, the inlet is outside the truck at the base of the windshield on the cowl, that's what all those slots are for.😐
I'm having a weird issue with my 2013 f150 platinum 5.0l it will randomly shut off and say low oil pressure it only dose it when I go into reverse and stop and it's idling weird
How about the master cylinder recall?
the problem I had with my '14 eco was I liked it so much. that thing fit me like no other. sorry to have to trade it but mileage and all..
I have a 2014 eco 3.5 XLT and it's running great at 75k. Two days ago I did a full tune up(spark plugs, flushes, front/rear diff's etc and it's running smooth as silk. It's paid off and i have no plans of trading it in for the new ones.
I have a 13 eco with118k on it now. No issues other than having to put grease on the drive shaft once a year.
i have a 2009 f150 , 4.6 ltr triton v8, periodically if i am on cruise control or just cruing inbetween 60 and 80 and go to press on the gas pedal the the truck sputters and feels like its flooding itself, to clear it i have to push the gas pedal hard and it clears itself
The biggest PITA for me has been the optional electric sliding rear window with the defrost. The defrost has went out on me three times now - two under warranty, this last time on my dime, which I'm not going to pay for yet. Sucks, because the circuit also includes the heated mirrors, so neither system works now. And Ford won't recall this!
Such BS but it isn't a safety issue to be recalled.
Should be another category other than recall ... call it dealer eval... buyer status is a list... ultimately product improvement 👏 👌 💪 🙌 ✨
Same here mine flickers on and off and never works correctly, I eventually gave up on it because I have a bed cap and the back cab window rarely gets enough ice on it to matter.
You can access the wiring for the rear window defrost behind the rear seat on passenger side and place jumper on it. Then your heated mirrors will work. Had same problem and since I never really needed the rear window defrost, this was the best option. Think there is a You tube video showing this.
The bracket that holds the actuator cables broke on mine. May just replace with a solid rear window with no slider
Its worth worth noting for any owner of this truck.
This f150 ecoboost does not have a power steering reservoir for fluid
The truck has an electronic rack and pinion, steering.
If your truck need alignment guess what you'll need to replace the entire rack amd pinion.
It'll cost you 2500 to 3500 from a dealership.
This is a dealer part, repair shops will charge you way more.
My stepfather has an 2014 f150 alt ecoboost 3.5 he had to get this replaced from a dealer.
What about the IWE actuators on 4wd models?
Good Tips, my 2013 f150 with the 5.0 blew a fuse for the fuel pump, is this a sign of the pump getting weak, I heard Ford knows of the wires to the pump being under sized, any help would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻
The number one issue for this generation is the faulty rear defrost heaters with the sliding window. Ford offered nothing to resolve this issue.
+Eric Anderson Thanks for the feedback!
The most parts ive ever threw at a vehicle, is a Ford.😒
I currently own a Toyota, Ford and Chevy.
Ford gives me the most problems.
Thanks for the information 👍
Considering trading in my 09 GMC Canyon for a ‘14 f-150 3.5 V6 ecoboost. Just looking for a bigger rig as my family has gotten a lot bigger since I originally bought the canyon.
Did you buy one? How’s it holding out for you
It should be noted that if the purge solenoid fails it won't set the cel and the vacuum pressure can implode the gas tank and even rupture, spilling gas. Bad bad bad on Ford. Chevy does purge solenoid failures in a much healthier way.
Do you have to reset a BMS when replacing the battery on a 2011?
I have a question
The low oil warning light, on off, on off on off at low idle !
I have changed oil pressure sensor
Oil changed
Still happening
I do hear it start to clacking clack after a moment of the Warning light appears and then it goes away with the warring light?
Is this the oil pump going out?
Same here any luck yet ?
My truck doesn't randomly downshift. But when I step on the gas hard, like when I'm merging onto a highway, it downshifts really hard. I'm used to it, but anyone who hasn't driven it before is startled by it. Is this possibly related to the transmission recall?
dont worry, they didnt fix the sync/bluetooth in the 2016 f-150 yet. mine does this all the time. still doing it at this moment in fact.
Just gotta do a sync reset when that happens.
Amazing! Two of the problems you mentioned I have and now get to determine how to fix them: Backup camera not working and the solenoid issue. Much appreciated and I hope you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year sir.
I can't believe all the issues with f150. Oh wait yes i can i had a few... not anymore....
There is an app to download to a usb?? I didn't catch the name of that app he was talking about
hi nice video i hav a ford f150 2009 i put new coils plugs map censor 'i have a growl noise at 45 to 50 miles per hour 'please help' could it be the pump in the tank thanks.
awesome thanks, but i can't find any videos about the "14' f150 driver side manual recliner not working" i keep getting power seat videos, nothing about manual seats? would you know of any? thanks.
Don’t forget about timing chain chains in the eco boost or 5.4. Manifold leaks or crack even the v10 do it. Plus the cam phasers as well. Or if want to get to the diesel trucks like 6.4 are known to catch fire
+Travis Johnson Thanks for the feedback!
2012 f-150 fx4 3.5 135,000 only problem I ever had was the transmission output speed sensor, replaced it no problems. the syncing to a phone was the other all I did was took out the fuse even though it was good replaced it with a new one and that’s it never had another problem with it. Just keep up with maintenance on it very important. I also put 91-94 premium gas always. Oh yeah don’t go by fords lifetime transmission just change out the transmission oil at every 60-75,000
Appreciate this video, unfortunately my issue is not one of the top 5. My 2012 Ford F-150 5.0 has a no start issue. It's cranking over, no issued with fuse 27, I swapped the ignition and fuel relays no change. I pulled the coils and it's sparking grounded. Turning over the RPM registers, so no crank sensor issue and I hear a whir when powering up the vehicle and can smell fuel under the hood after failed start up attempt, so assume the fuel pump is working. I also check the passenger kick panel for no connection. I picked put Autel code reader and all I got is a very small emissions systems issue. Hope the 1A Auto team can help!
It still is very likely fuse #27. The fuse does not always blow, but more often than not the connector it is pressed into is burned on one side and essentially killing continuity. It's pretty easy to see if this is the case, as the connector and/or the fuse leg itself will be burned or even melted from heat caused by a loose connection. If this is what has happened, it acts just like a blown fuse and the pump will not come on, resulting in the engine turning over, but not firing for lack of fuel.
If the connector (or fuse leg) is not totally melted off, you can often clean it up with a small flat file or burnishing tool and then make sure both sides of the connectors are pushed back together for the tightest fit that you can make happen without breaking things. This is why the problem is sometimes intermittent at first and then gets worse. If the fuse leg is melted, it will need to be replaced. If the connector is no good, it will need to be replaced, or some fancy surgery will need to happen.
They also have a fuse 27 relocator kit
Um, all that and you never even suspected the STARTER!!! 🤪😜🤪🤣😆🤣😆🤣
@@infectedpuddle1638 "Turning over the RPM registers" that wouldn't happen if it was the starter
Thanks for that very informative video.