Watched your videos so much over the last 6 months and nearing completion of mine based on your design. Your hard working team are a credit to you and it’s great to see that your all pull together to get the job done and enjoy it at the same time , albeit with a touch of tactful steering occasionally. Definitely at the forefront of garden room design and installation.
I think most uf us watching your channel to get some valuable information and proper answers to some questions, can’t understand these people, who hit dislike for you quality videos
I really don’t get the thumbs down, I’m building garden rooms not murdering babies 🤷🏻♂️ appreciate you and the rest of the gang with your kind words and support, me and my team will keep on marching 🙌
Just found this channel absolutely brilliant. Just in middle of building my own summer house so this content on ya channel priceless respect to you sir ..
been using you as a mentor for my build walls are up steel arriving tuesday its looking good and so nice to have a reference, your like the haynes manual for garden rooms, thank you
Great to see a tradesman who knows his stuff, believes in what he's doing, and happy to direct his team. No snowflakes there :-) Great stuff. Respect to you all.
Great videos learning loads. Although stuffing that steel with rockwool won’t stop the thermal bridging. I work in the glazing industry and deal with this stuff all day every day.
Thanks for the great video. Your obviously getting these up very quickly. For the home builders who are perhaps hoping to do this is stages and it will obviously take a lot longer. Could you let us know how long things can stay outside for at different stages before it starts becoming a problem. I know the egger protect you said has about 6 weeks. But if you get the roof on and it all osb’d. If you were to seal the door shut how long you got to get the rubber on and the cladding on for example
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing! Find your videos right to the point and informative. Amazing seeing your team work relentlessly to get the flooring and walls put up. That steel thingy (sorry not the technical term) must weigh a ton! Looking forward to Part 3 or Day 4 :)
Putting wool inside that steel will never stop cold bridging, you would need to thermally break the steel to stop it, as the steel is a continuous ring it will never be thermally broken and the wool will do nothing at all
Gavin Smith I’m no expert of any shape or form but this in my opinion is more then adequate for a garden room structure, the steel is also clad inside and out with timber which I thought would give a certain amount of thermal brake! But again I’m thinking about this as someone who has never been involved in this type of construction (only done internal shopfitting for 35yrs) when thinking about the cross section of a Catnic lintel in a block and brick construction this also has a continuous metal base plate that spans from outside to inside with no type of thermal brake, what these guys are doing looks to be a higher end product to what I have seen done over the years.
Ken Larman, what a well thought out comment! Couldn’t of even come close to your explanation, just doing my best in the circumstances that are put in my way, your reasoning comparisons to a lintel are similar to my hybrid roof, and to that my friend , I salute you!! My kinda thinking, except you can verbally. Express it 💪💪👍🏼
Gavin is right. Metal is a very very good heat conductor. Wood has some R value. I think that the heat lost will be small as the surface is small. Structural benefit outweighs the heat loss. Only issue I is possible condensation inside the metal beam. Foam at both ends? Then there would be no need for wool inside.
Tomy Bino it’s a tuff one the steel is there to do a job albeit it’s going to be a cold spot, mild steel unpainted it will rust, (although not rot through) be easy to increase the thickness by 50mm on the front walls which are the smallest walls on most of these builds, good way to insulate that steel and I would also Zink prime or red lead whatever, before fitting, when your going to the trouble of doing everything else it’s nothing really, what do I know, also be good to dpc the inner layer of steel so it doesn’t rot the timber, all about the detail, no one sees it like you say but you know it’s there and you done everything you can to make it the best, enjoy watching the build
Congrats on 20k. Keep up the good work. Don't forget to link all these videos in a RUclips series so RUclips will play the next video automatically in order for anyone watching
Another great video! Thanks for posting them. Why do you double up the roof timbers rather than just use a deeper section to limit deflection? Assume it keeps your total height down and allows you to have a standard roof detail regardless of span??
Great videos as always. Couple of questions....on the side walls, how come you don't run the OSB all the way to the top to match the profile of the roof pitch? And is there any chance you could explain how to frame walls that don't meet at right angles? Do you need to cut the plates at angle so they can join up flush with each other?
There’s no reason to angle cut the osb on the side walls as it would serve no purpose to be honest, if walls aren’t right angles we will just butt them together and nail as normal, plenty nails and there’ll be no issues
hiya what is the maximum width i can use for the roof with 2 x 4 x 2 bolted together without the steel please . happy new year to you and the gang and thanks for the great videos cant stop watching them .
Love this info. Can you advise me I’m about to build a 12x8 deck Using 4x2 through out. Im going to use 50mm insulation(all I can afford) to give me some benefit. Is it advisable to then use a roof house wrap on top followed by osb (again all I can afford) as I have seen some of your vid not to use when it’s wet weather. Worst time of the year to be building my room but whilst I’m on furlough thought best I get it done now I have money coming in. Thanks for help and keep inspiring. PS love your urgency work rate mentality. Just get the job done!
Built my workshop on a reinforced concrete raft and dwarf wall - all wood was treated - I used vapor shield and heavy ship lap - I only wanted to build it once in my lifetime
Hi mate really enjoy watching your vids. Keep the sharing the knowledge bud. I have a question if the roof is 4.5m wide what size timbers would you use Cheers mate
Many thanks for all your videos. Just one question could you please let us know how much these buildings cost just the ones you are building including vat, to the finish that you show. Many thanks Shane @ Wow Interiors.
loving the work Liam...big well done to your team also in particular to Amy. i think you should make her the star of your vids..hahaha soon be hitting 100k if you did ..only messing well done to all as work ethic is there for all to see
Loving these day by day vlogs...really getting my imagination going for the art of the possible. Quick question....is the bottom frame the only treated timber or is it all? And also, is any of it C16 or the like or with it being a timber building would I get away with standard CLS timber?
Another great video. From watching American framers (I am a total beginner), I learnt about ‘Californian Corners’ for optimum joining of walls. Seems to make a lot of sense re avoiding a cold spot and giving a fixing for internal boards and easy to make the l-shaped two piece stud. What is your approach and do you nail and screw?
Really impressed.... I'm at the lats stage and was wondering what happens at the bottom edge as there is a gap of 50 mm between the cladding and the osb for insects to get in?
I notice you didn’t mention anything about crowning either the floor joists, studs or roof joists, is this something you don’t deem necessary because it’s a day room?
I get the test with screws and nails. But nails will come lose over time, thats just a fact. Screws wont, and what is the structure doing to be going up and down to bend a screw!
Hi mate think I’ve now completed ur channel 😂 but I have a wee question my garage I’m building is front to back 4.4mtr I have 4.8 x140mm roof joist could I double them up like you’ve done and put them at 400mm they’d be ok? Thanks and again awesome channel
Great Job team. Love the daily progress of thos job. On the right hand side of the back wall panel there was 2 studs close together. What was this for?
good alternative way of showing how to get the wall plumb when on floor as i'll be doing this with mine with limited space! Also just to confirm, are the walls supported only by nails at the base and roof appendages? Also at 9:58 you said you left 200mm, is it actually 200mm or is it 160mm steel + 15mm clearance and rounded up for simplification? Just checking! thank you
@@thegardenroomguru aahhh gotcha. assumed you were talking about the height my bad, and what about the walls then are they fixed just at base and via roof appendages?
Great vid. Quick question. I have 4.8m joist but the span is 5.5m how much over lap should I use when fixing the Joist together to achieve the 5.5m length? Anyone? Tia
are the roof joists 400mm centres, or are the noggins 400mm (which would mean the centres are 400+47+47 = 494mm centres?) thank you in advance for any advice regarding this. great build as always Liam and co! great work
16:11 Nails v screws. I've had this discussion many times! A joiner said to me nobody uses nails anymore! I asked him who was buying all the nail guns then? Screws are hardened, (but not tempered) so they're brittle. You can snap them just driving them in. You might bend a nail, but you'll never snap it driving it in and you'll never see screws in roof timbers! Nails in effect are steel dowels.
Will, tell me please why do you batten the outside osb twice? diagonal and horizontal? will just horizontal won't give cladding enough breathing space?
I'm guessing the gladding is being fixed vertically.. if you just had horizontal battens the water can sit (and be trapped) on the top edge of the batten. This way there is always somewhere for water to drain.. and air to flow past and keep the cavity and back of the cladding dry.
I had rats under my shed and they chewed through a railway sleeper (used to border it), in one side and out the other - never seen anything like it. If they want to make a run they will (even had them tunnelling in the soil at the back of the garden!!
@@dannymurphy1779 why would there be screws in loft lol. Trusses are on truss clips or skew nailed not paslode fixed. Bracing will be fixed with paslode fixings but the structural elements will be fixed using nails included all restraint strapping, in some cases ye these can be screwed. Paslode is not classed as a secure fixing
Absolutely brilliant, huge respect to you for sharing your knowledge and making these videos!
Watched your videos so much over the last 6 months and nearing completion of mine based on your design. Your hard working team are a credit to you and it’s great to see that your all pull together to get the job done and enjoy it at the same time , albeit with a touch of tactful steering occasionally. Definitely at the forefront of garden room design and installation.
Nearly shite my pants when you shouted at the wall lifting haha. Good video and good mentoring man.
I watch your videos over and over and never get bored so big thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge
Amazing results for 3 days. Great little team you have there.
I think most uf us watching your channel to get some valuable information and proper answers to some questions, can’t understand these people, who hit dislike for you quality videos
Keep doing what you doing, awesome stuff thanks
I really don’t get the thumbs down, I’m building garden rooms not murdering babies 🤷🏻♂️ appreciate you and the rest of the gang with your kind words and support, me and my team will keep on marching 🙌
Just found this channel absolutely brilliant. Just in middle of building my own summer house so this content on ya channel priceless respect to you sir ..
That 20mm on OSB caused me a huge problem when fitting plasterboards to interior.
Thank you William for these great informative videos. You are star
So good to see a team working well together. Top job. 🌟
been using you as a mentor for my build walls are up steel arriving tuesday its looking good and so nice to have a reference, your like the haynes manual for garden rooms, thank you
ps owe you a beer should we ever bump into each other
Great to see a tradesman who knows his stuff, believes in what he's doing, and happy to direct his team. No snowflakes there :-) Great stuff. Respect to you all.
Great videos learning loads. Although stuffing that steel with rockwool won’t stop the thermal bridging. I work in the glazing industry and deal with this stuff all day every day.
Thanks for the great video.
Your obviously getting these up very quickly. For the home builders who are perhaps hoping to do this is stages and it will obviously take a lot longer. Could you let us know how long things can stay outside for at different stages before it starts becoming a problem.
I know the egger protect you said has about 6 weeks. But if you get the roof on and it all osb’d. If you were to seal the door shut how long you got to get the rubber on and the cladding on for example
You are all a pleasure to watch, a lovely team effort. Take care and stay safe.
Good garden room. One suggestion keep nogs 1200mm and straight only one cut on PIR insulation. Cheers
I love watching your videos, great to see quality work and your experience. Thank you
Brilliant! Thank you for sharing! Find your videos right to the point and informative. Amazing seeing your team work relentlessly to get the flooring and walls put up. That steel thingy (sorry not the technical term) must weigh a ton! Looking forward to Part 3 or Day 4 :)
Love the content, great detail and quality workman/womenship
Your brilliant mate!! Don’t listen to all these divs That put negative feedback
Don't mess with Amy and her nail gun!!
Putting wool inside that steel will never stop cold bridging, you would need to thermally break the steel to stop it, as the steel is a continuous ring it will never be thermally broken and the wool will do nothing at all
Gavin Smith I’m no expert of any shape or form but this in my opinion is more then adequate for a garden room structure, the steel is also clad inside and out with timber which I thought would give a certain amount of thermal brake! But again I’m thinking about this as someone who has never been involved in this type of construction (only done internal shopfitting for 35yrs) when thinking about the cross section of a Catnic lintel in a block and brick construction this also has a continuous metal base plate that spans from outside to inside with no type of thermal brake, what these guys are doing looks to be a higher end product to what I have seen done over the years.
Ken Larman, what a well thought out comment! Couldn’t of even come close to your explanation, just doing my best in the circumstances that are put in my way, your reasoning comparisons to a lintel are similar to my hybrid roof, and to that my friend , I salute you!! My kinda thinking, except you can verbally. Express it 💪💪👍🏼
Gavin is right. Metal is a very very good heat conductor. Wood has some R value. I think that the heat lost will be small as the surface is small. Structural benefit outweighs the heat loss. Only issue I is possible condensation inside the metal beam. Foam at both ends? Then there would be no need for wool inside.
Tomy Bino it’s 2 mins work and costs penny’s, imo it’s worth the effort
Tomy Bino it’s a tuff one the steel is there to do a job albeit it’s going to be a cold spot, mild steel unpainted it will rust, (although not rot through) be easy to increase the thickness by 50mm on the front walls which are the smallest walls on most of these builds, good way to insulate that steel and I would also Zink prime or red lead whatever, before fitting, when your going to the trouble of doing everything else it’s nothing really, what do I know, also be good to dpc the inner layer of steel so it doesn’t rot the timber, all about the detail, no one sees it like you say but you know it’s there and you done everything you can to make it the best, enjoy watching the build
Brilliant, well oiled machine your team is. Well done
Excellent, a master in his field! 👍😊
Brilliant work guys. 👍👍👌
Great work all, Looking forward to the next one
Great content and knowledge for me doing mine this summer👍
Its because of these videos that I'm now building my own :)
Excellent video content. Great work Liam. 👍
Great to see a lady on the tools , she’s awesome with the nail gun mate 🤙🤙🤙
Lovely job
Congrats on 20k. Keep up the good work. Don't forget to link all these videos in a RUclips series so RUclips will play the next video automatically in order for anyone watching
Think it's called a playlist?
I’m such a nob! I thought playlists was wgat I liked to watch 🤣
@@thegardenroomguru lol, we all learn something hence why I watch your videos lol
i love the youtube algorithm.., sat here watching a "johnny Vegas" sound a like building a garden room and i fucking love it!
Good to see she listened to my advice
😂😂
@@amyhcarpentry3698 🛠️👷♀️🏩
Another great video! Thanks for posting them. Why do you double up the roof timbers rather than just use a deeper section to limit deflection? Assume it keeps your total height down and allows you to have a standard roof detail regardless of span??
That’s it mate, height restrictions
Excellent team work, better than the total numpties I had do my extension, Veritas Builders from Wythenshaw, avoid them at all costs
Great videos as always. Couple of questions....on the side walls, how come you don't run the OSB all the way to the top to match the profile of the roof pitch? And is there any chance you could explain how to frame walls that don't meet at right angles? Do you need to cut the plates at angle so they can join up flush with each other?
There’s no reason to angle cut the osb on the side walls as it would serve no purpose to be honest, if walls aren’t right angles we will just butt them together and nail as normal, plenty nails and there’ll be no issues
Awesome stuff, great videos mate.
Well oiled machine springs to mind 👌🏼
Nail the short side first, easier to pull the long side square then. Better leverage 👍👍
Another great video. 👍
hiya what is the maximum width i can use for the roof with 2 x 4 x 2 bolted together without the steel please . happy new year to you and the gang and thanks for the great videos cant stop watching them .
Love this info.
Can you advise me I’m about to build a 12x8 deck Using 4x2 through out. Im going to use 50mm insulation(all I can afford) to give me some benefit. Is it advisable to then use a roof house wrap on top followed by osb (again all I can afford) as I have seen some of your vid not to use when it’s wet weather.
Worst time of the year to be building my room but whilst I’m on furlough thought best I get it done now I have money coming in.
Thanks for help and keep inspiring.
PS love your urgency work rate mentality. Just get the job done!
Built my workshop on a reinforced concrete raft and dwarf wall - all wood was treated - I used vapor shield and heavy ship lap - I only wanted to build it once in my lifetime
Hi mate really enjoy watching your vids. Keep the sharing the knowledge bud.
I have a question if the roof is 4.5m wide what size timbers would you use
Cheers mate
Did u ever find out about the 4.5 span ..I have the same roof ,can I use 2x 5x2 bolted together ?
Brilliant best video s on building
Many thanks for all your videos. Just one question could you please let us know how much these buildings cost just the ones you are building including vat, to the finish that you show. Many thanks Shane @ Wow Interiors.
loving the work Liam...big well done to your team also in particular to Amy. i think you should make her the star of your vids..hahaha soon be hitting 100k if you did ..only messing well done to all as work ethic is there for all to see
💁🏼♀️
Absolutely a diamond
Great videos and detailed explanations. What are the wall heights you use for back/side walls and front wall? Thanks Mark.
Sorry found it in comments below. So just under 2.1 back and sides and I assume then 75mm higher on front wall?
Great tutorial...
Hi Liam - great content as always! Quick question re the roof joists: instead of 2 x 5by2s for a 3.5m span could you replace with single 6by2s?
Still not big enough mate, and the height is thenissue
Good work. Please get some ear defenders for your staff. It’s too late when you have tinnitus and hearing problems
Is this for power tools or to drown out the sound of the gaffer shouting at them 😂😂
Agreed. Sorry to be a killjoy but they really should have eye protection too when using nail guns....
Nail guns are great but impactor drill n screws double secured 🇬🇧👍
screws snap, nails don't, well the crap screws I get do anyway
Screw gun always
Loving these day by day vlogs...really getting my imagination going for the art of the possible. Quick question....is the bottom frame the only treated timber or is it all? And also, is any of it C16 or the like or with it being a timber building would I get away with standard CLS timber?
Base is pressure treated, walls cls, roof c16 mate
william griffin lovely, cheers mate 👍
My one is going to be 4.8m x 4.8m whats your thoughts for spanning the roof??? Any help would be appreciated 👍
What timbers did yo7 use on your 4.8 span?
Another great video. From watching American framers (I am a total beginner), I learnt about ‘Californian Corners’ for optimum joining of walls. Seems to make a lot of sense re avoiding a cold spot and giving a fixing for internal boards and easy to make the l-shaped two piece stud. What is your approach and do you nail and screw?
I love the videos and the content you share however it looks like you have twice the size of the team you need. Great job!
Currently training in process, thanks for your support
Really impressed.... I'm at the lats stage and was wondering what happens at the bottom edge as there is a gap of 50 mm between the cladding and the osb for insects to get in?
If you double batten it for airflow the insects would get in anyway?
Another cracking video guys. But Liam, what happened to your new Bluetooth mic?!
I notice you didn’t mention anything about crowning either the floor joists, studs or roof joists, is this something you don’t deem necessary because it’s a day room?
They probably did but didn't mention it.
I get the test with screws and nails. But nails will come lose over time, thats just a fact. Screws wont, and what is the structure doing to be going up and down to bend a screw!
Hi mate think I’ve now completed ur channel 😂 but I have a wee question my garage I’m building is front to back 4.4mtr I have 4.8 x140mm roof joist could I double them up like you’ve done and put them at 400mm they’d be ok? Thanks and again awesome channel
Loving the video series so far - is it worth the investment for a large gazebo/marquee for you to work under or is it more hassle than it's worth?
we have 3 little ones, they are ok, but you gotta keep moving them, tbh, its to keep the tools dry the most.
Great work, thanks for all the information!
Short Question: Why aren't you taking tongue and groove OSB for the walls?
Great Job team. Love the daily progress of thos job. On the right hand side of the back wall panel there was 2 studs close together. What was this for?
Timber wasn’t long enough so wall extended
He dose mention this in the video 🤓
good alternative way of showing how to get the wall plumb when on floor as i'll be doing this with mine with limited space! Also just to confirm, are the walls supported only by nails at the base and roof appendages? Also at 9:58 you said you left 200mm, is it actually 200mm or is it 160mm steel + 15mm clearance and rounded up for simplification? Just checking! thank you
Height is 160, width is 200 bearing
@@thegardenroomguru aahhh gotcha. assumed you were talking about the height my bad, and what about the walls then are they fixed just at base and via roof appendages?
Great vid. Quick question. I have 4.8m joist but the span is 5.5m how much over lap should I use when fixing the Joist together to achieve the 5.5m length? Anyone? Tia
I’d be putting a steel across the middle to split the length, it’s too much
are the roof joists 400mm centres, or are the noggins 400mm (which would mean the centres are 400+47+47 = 494mm centres?)
thank you in advance for any advice regarding this. great build as always Liam and co! great work
400 spacings mate, gives you maximum use of the insulation
@@thegardenroomguru thank you for clarifying, that's great info to know, loving the option of doubling the joists. thank you.
Surprised the whole team aren't skinny as a rake. Proper graft that
This is fantastic mate, but doesnt it have to be more than 1m away from the boundary if the internal is bigger than 15m2?
Nope, but it is once the laurels are cleared
If the height is under 2.5m which it is then it can be as close to the boundary as you like
Pretty sure if it is over 15m2 and within 1m of the boundary it should have building regs
Hi Liam, towards the end is that your power coming up into the back right corner at the bottom, the black conduit behind the chicken wire? Thanks
No mate, power not run yet, don’t worry, I’ll include a video
@@thegardenroomguru brilliant thanks
16:11 Nails v screws. I've had this discussion many times! A joiner said to me nobody uses nails anymore! I asked him who was buying all the nail guns then? Screws are hardened, (but not tempered) so they're brittle. You can snap them just driving them in. You might bend a nail, but you'll never snap it driving it in and you'll never see screws in roof timbers! Nails in effect are steel dowels.
Love the videos! Great entertainment and very educational. Was wondering, is noggins necessary, when the walls are sheathed?
How do you keep the grass so pristine. I've been peeping a concrete base for three days on my own and my grass is muddy and wrecked already
Love your system. Would like to get a package, can you provide details? I would like 5 x 3 please
Available at www.oakwoodgardenrooms.com mate 👌
5 x4 joists good enough up to what span?
You have surpassed the 20k mark! Well done.
im super happy about this!!! small start to this in less than 6month, its insane
william griffin keep it up.. the day to day videos and the detail is key !!
Is it possible to do one day with only hand tools, to see the difference technology makes. Interesting to me not very cost effective for you
What length of Featheredge do you use for the side you cant see...???
I’ll show it getting clad don’t worry 👌
Nice one 👍
I prefer to watch William's stuff over anything on any channel on the TV! What does that say about me?!
I am the same and like to think the stuff on TV is crap
Says more about the stuff on TV...
Master of his trade on top of that sharing his expertise - no cowboys on this job!! Well done crew top job
How did you secure steel, did you just rest it up against the OSB?
Tech screwed mate
@@thegardenroomguruthanks.
Congratulations! How thick is the OBS board?
I hop e I don't come off as sexist, but I'm really pleased to see a girl on the team.
Congrats on the 20k What’s the over all finish height of your doors.
1950 mate
thanks buddy.
Excellent work Will - what height are the 4/2 inside the wall frames? thanks
1975mm mate
Back and sides
Thanks mate front a bit higher depending on the span. Gonna be starting my own soon. Love your vids. Will be using them all. Thanks
We make our front wall 75mm higher
Oakwood Garden Rooms thank you mate much appreciated. 💪🏻💪🏻
Hi William, can I ask why it is that you apply the membrane and batten the rear wall while flat on the floor, but not the sides?
Kaine Varley I would imagine it’s easier to do it that way because of the lack of working space at the rear!
@@rossolancer That makes sense. Thx Tony
Easier to seal the corners too
would this 5 x 4 idea work over 3.6m span?
Will, tell me please why do you batten the outside osb twice? diagonal and horizontal? will just horizontal won't give cladding enough breathing space?
if you batten once the air will only pass on that 400mm section, this way it passes throughout the full wall area
I'm guessing the gladding is being fixed vertically.. if you just had horizontal battens the water can sit (and be trapped) on the top edge of the batten. This way there is always somewhere for water to drain.. and air to flow past and keep the cavity and back of the cladding dry.
Thank you!
I was going to ask this. Great reply though, makes a lot of sense
How much do you think will cost me to build 2 bad flat?
Why double up the roof timbers??? Why not buy timber of that dimensions in the first place?
Lone Ranger my supplier don’t do a 4x5, does yours
Yeah, I did hear this but thought the added bit was further along from the end
is all that timber pressure-treated?
Hats off
Awesome!
I had rats under my shed and they chewed through a railway sleeper (used to border it), in one side and out the other - never seen anything like it. If they want to make a run they will (even had them tunnelling in the soil at the back of the garden!!
Would it be better to use treated timber of is normal ok?
Treated on the base, the rest is fine mate
Cheers mate 👍
Only thing im not keen on is the stud work in paslode fixed to floor, secure fixing of a screw would of been better.
screws snap my friend, watch full video, we screw and nail
Go into your loft, you won't see screws there!!!
@@thegardenroomguru wont snap with pilot hole and u only screw front corner panels to secure in place i have watched vid.
@@dannymurphy1779 why would there be screws in loft lol. Trusses are on truss clips or skew nailed not paslode fixed.
Bracing will be fixed with paslode fixings but the structural elements will be fixed using nails included all restraint strapping, in some cases ye these can be screwed.
Paslode is not classed as a secure fixing
Will mice eat the insulation??