My First Impressions Of The yd100! Should you buy one?
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Hey guys welcome back and in todays video we are going for a rip on the newly built F-Zero frame from bikeberry. It has had some small issues but I can fix all of them quite easily. No matter where you but your parts from they are all gonna have small issues. Also at the end hopefully you guys will like the sick edit I put together for you all. I’m glad that we hit 800 subs and can’t thank you enough!
If you guys enjoyed this video or any other ones I’ve upload a leaving a comment would be great and subscribing is totally free so why not?
See you guys in the next video
![Phantom 85 Motorized Bicycle - [Mods & Fixes] - 42MPH with Half Throttle!](/img/1.gif)
I own the YD100, and it is pretty insane once you clean up the ports, get a decent spark plug, and get a shorty intake (Doing these will almost completely eliminate 4-stroking). The engine should have come with 2 base gaskets, but it will run better if you use only 1. I also recommend an NGK BR6HS plug. I notice that the engine really comes alive, and it is MUCH easier to tune the carb if you use a short intake.
Nice man thanks for the recommendations on the upgrades. I want to break it in first before I modify it but I did order a G2 reed for it and I’m getting a BR6HS plug. Then I will adjust the timing and I will have a smooth runner.
@@keeganhache6667 sweet. Good luck. MAKE SURE YOU WINDOW THE PISTON YOURSELF, the pre-windowed pistons will chew up the cylinder. Also with the G2 reed, you can use a 21mm OKO/PWK carb, which will give you a HUGE power boost as well as a second power band in the higher RPMs. I don’t recommend upgrading to the OKO right away, but it is still a great performance booster for relatively cheap.
@@a.m.bgarage.everydayprojec9665 yea bro I window all of my pistons myself and I follow the inside lips of the piston to know when to stop. The oko 21mm has tons of jet options so that’s the one I will be going with in my situation. On a standard pk80 it’s to much carb
These engines come full of metal dust & shavings.... I recently bought a China clone chainsaw expecting it to also be full of dirt. It was surprisingly clean inside compared to the bike engine. Cleaning & inspecting the new engine, I think is more important than the break in. Break-in won't help if the engine & case is full of factory metal shavings. After I took the jug & piston off I sprayed the case out with compressed air (metal shavings blew out lol) then poured gas inside case, sloshed it around & poured it out checking for debris. I also found a couple casting burrs that needed removed.
I wasn't very happy with the $75 Nasty Jack Pipe...It's a lot heavier than the $45 mz65 clone (like 2 or 3x heavier) & crappy made. The header pipe does have a larger ID but it's heavy with bad misaligned welds. The belly section pieces were all crooked/misaligned. I don't have a garage right now or I'd cut it open, re-weld the belly straight/even & grind off the horrible seams & other parts to reduce weight. It won't be $75 down the drain if I can fix it.
Wish I had R&F 203mm disks brakes
Hell yeah nice build bro glad to see your doing good
I’m doing great my man just been busy check out my latest RUclips short there’s a cool motor there 😉
Ok cool bro I’ll check it out
I wish the made an expansion chamber for my bt100. I would delete the rear disc brake on that frame and drill a hole in the cross bar and run an old school side pull rim brake.
One year later and i would not drill any holes in that expensive frame
Very Nice Build ! I Think All 2 Strokes Have Their Own Sweet Spot Fer Mix Ratio?... My Motto Is I'd Rather Go Farther Than Faster... & I Likes Goin' Fast! Lol. ... You Can Take An Old Bike Tire.. Cut Out A Couple Squares & Beef Up Yer Kick Stand.. Or Something Along Those Lines.. Before Replacin' It.. That Sucks When Ya Get Somethin' Rockin'.. & The Motor Head Gods Gotta Mess With Ya.. Dang It! Lol.
Yeah I definitely could beef up the kick stand with some rubber bushings. I will try it out sometime this week. I agree with the oil ratio being slightly heavy to allow the motors internals to have more lubrication during break in. A lot of small metal shavings go through the engine during this period and having that extra oil really helps!
@@keeganhache6667 .. Yes Absolutely, Them Lil' Zinc Cast Motors Can Be Pretty Good If Maintained.. I've Tore Down A Few 66'ers & Replaced The Bushings & Bearing.. Ported'em & Whatnot.. A Lotta Fun & Educational Hobby For Sure.. & Pretty Cheap Transportation.. If Only More Realized?.. You Do Good Work My Friend, Keep Poppin' Out Them Videos Brother! Merry Christmas To You & Yours Bud!!!
Good video bro 💯
That bike color is beautiful!!
It’s super nice in person
That ending was MINT!! questions, how many tanks did or will you run for the brake in? Just picked up a Wild Cat 80.
Yeah man on a normal sized gas tank you want to run 3 tanks of break in at 32:1. Then if you want you can upgrade to 40:1. More oil will make the bike run for longer but it won’t be as powerful. To be honest it’s not that noticeable. On my F-Zero I will run two tanks of break in before I start tuning it. I’m glad you liked the ending!
@Keegan Hache thanks for the info 👍 my man!! Can't wait to see what you're able to do on that F-Zero! 🙌 👍⚙️👀
Nice looking bike. 😊
I was wondering why everyone seems to like the new way of mounting the banana seat.
My first guess would be so you can use the built in disk brake mount, already welded to the frame.
Is it me, or is your exhaust awfully close to the ground?
Yeah that pipe is long gone now lol
Just bought one and works good so far
Yeah there good motors
They say the large spring is just to protect it from the motor
Mine works great
I got the stage one CDI and you should save your money!! I didn't notice a difference at all
Yup I didn’t get one don’t worry lol
can the casting to top be shaved even w/ the top fin in center circle quarter size over cast ?
Nasty Jack pipes are great mine just came in today, the welds can be a lil shottty at some parts but overall great pipe for the price, practically same thing as an mz65
Yeah I will eventually get my hands on one I’ve heard the welds on those are not the best but as long as they seal that’s all that matters. No doubt it’s a better pipe
I got a stupid question..... how do you get the camera to film you while riding? Is that like a lowride drone?
Hay buddy love you videos ..I was thinking about getting one of those frames but I like the beach cruiser look is it possible to put beach cruiser handle bars on that frame?
Yes you can just cut off some Cranbrook bars and slide them into the clamps. It will make the riding position more upright and it will feel better all around. I’m also going to be getting a Springer seat for it so it’s better for daily riding.
I really need one of these seats that sits out over the rear wheel...dont like how my current setup has me on top of the throttle instead of behind it 😢
This is the exact setup that I'm building... siiiick. I ordered the brushed metal finish on the bike. Did you coat the tank like you said in your previous video?
No I never coated the tank I just got lucky because mine doesn’t leak down the frame at all. I put a small amount of fuel in and shock the bike. Then checked it the next day. Still the same amount was in the tank.
Rough getting those running right but once you do they are nice
Yea man they aren’t great out of the box but with all of the information that’s out there I will be able to solve the 4 stroking issues and get it to hit some decent high speeds. But I want to run it rich on break in to be safe because I did that on my last build and the cylinder lining looks perfect!
Amazing F-zero bro!!
Thanks man it is a great bike to ride
I bought three of these engines and didn't get twenty miles out of them. Can someone tell me where i went wrong with them?
Time i have 4 but every one I got from amazon is never all the same parts sometimes you have to order a better carb and while breaking in you have to torque your head like 5 times every short run. Over tighten you can strip the head bolts and lose compression and no more riding unless you rebuild the top end. Should get at least 700 miles im in Canada i got 1200 kms just divide by 1.6 you get miles
They're all garbage, you can get them to run well for only a little while, eventually the pins that hold the piston on break inside the motor and it self destructs. 4-stroke is the only practical option.
I put the dio reed kit and nitrous kit with a good expansion chamber on mine and it runs great
Awesome!!
Loose the chain tensioner...remove a link or two.
You are so creative.
Such a unique bike.
Ok Fred shut your pie hole and built your own..
Then post...
Anyway good job...
I just heard a liitle 4 stroke...
Yeah bro she’s been modified since then with a port job and g2 reed with larger 21mm carb. Runs super smooth now and I did the timing adjustment also. Also drilled a 1/2 hole 15mm deep on both sides of the crank
Right out the gate mine had bad seals and it ran like that
I just moved the needle clip and started getting on the throttle and it ran super well.
You ever figure out what was up with the wheel wable? I've never seen a bicycle wheel spin perfectly, but if it's that bad it's probably bent, you have to do a really bad job of lacing the wheel if it's that bad amd not bent.
Yes I contacted Tony from bike berry about the issue and he’s said it was a common problem on these wheel sets. If you buy them separately they are tighter tolerance. I needed to tighten all of the spokes and true the rim. The hump in the rim however can not be fixed and the rear rim needs to ideally be replaced.
Maybe try rotating your tires out. Your back tire looks a lil worn out compared with the front one. Which could be the cause of the up and down wobble 🤔. Either way rotating your tires wouldn't hurt to do whenever one gets more worn out then the other. And the reason I say the when the back tire being worn might be the cause of the wobble is because, ok have you ever seen a 🏀 when it gets worn out. It looks like it has a boob growing out the side of it lol. When tires get worn they do the same thing. Either that or maybe try letting a lil bit of air pressure out of it and also one of the bearings in your rear hub could have popped loose maybe idk just brain storming lol
Yes I actually play a lot of basketball and a worn out ball will feel better than a brand new one. However I just built this bike and the tires are brand new. So they are definitely not worn out. The rim it self has a flat spot in it and I will need to take that to a bike shop and have them true it out for me.
The wheel probably has a hop
I got one and really enjoy it
Nice man they good motors but need some work to run good out of the box
Turns out, a 25:1 ratio will make your engine actually run hotter than a 50:1 ratio. Although it probably provides your bottom end & rings with more lubrication during break-in.. But using 25:1 on a hot summer day hoping to keep an engine cooler on a long ride is a bad idea.... Here's a video of a 25:1 VS 50:1 chainsaw engine temp test. ruclips.net/video/9ywMl30_JPI/видео.html
I don't think 50:1 is good though either (just my opinion) I'm one of those 35:1 to 40:1 ratio type guys 1.6 to 1.75oz per 1/2 gallon of gas.
Yea but this is in colder weather so I’m not worried about it getting to go. The engine is lucky to get up to 230 degrees so it’s fine. I personally like 32:1 for all of my other builds.
@@keeganhache6667 I used to think that using a little more oil like 25:1 on a really hot day would help the engine run cooler not realizing it did the opposite & made it run hotter.....I just bought a cylinder head temp gauge that goes on the spark plug to keep an eye on engine temps so I don't have to worry about roasting an engine 10 miles from home.
@junkyardmotorbike It's a Runleader (brand name) It looks like a good deal for $23.... Green back light display, easily removable battery, it has a tach/hr meter/clock (in military time) & the temp gauge loop that goes on the spark plug. Also has an adjustable temp warning alarm. So you can set it to say 400F, when your head reaches 400F. The gauge will start flashing, letting you know it's time to pull over & cool down. I'm not sure how accurate the temp probe is, I'm gonna test with a digital temp gun & compare the difference. I know the overheating/failure point of these engines is the piston & rings around the exhaust port side. The exhaust port area is always hotter than the rest of the engine & can get like 200f or more, degrees hotter than the cyl head temp. So they say to set your head temp warning at a conservative low number. Recently watched a guy burn up a Phanton85 miles away from home. If he had that temp gauge, he could have saved the engine.
I seen a guy with a small racing motorcycle, switch from a spark plug/cyl head temp gauge, to an exhaust port temp gauge that has a probe go into the exhaust pipe about an inch away from the ex port to get a more accurate engine temp reading. To keep from roasting another engine. Those Vapor Trail gauges are well over $100. If I buy/add a little $7 digital speedometer, then for $30 VS $150 I'll have an accurate digital speedometer, a tach, hr meter & temp gauge with overheating warning alarm.
Why the hell do I write so many long comments???
@junkyardmotorbike I hope it doesn't turn out to be a dud. I forgot to read reviews & only watched 1 video before ordering it. Just seen a 2018 video of an older style one with a blue LED display that's very hard to see in daylight. I think the newer- green back light display is supposed to be brighter & water proof. My $10 tach/hr meter like everyone else has works fine but I kinda wasted $10 on it. I would have bought the $23 Runleader instead had I seen it sooner. If the temp gauge saves my engine and saves me from being stuck 5 miles from home, it's well worth the $23.
I'm currently breaking in my YD100 on another bike while I wait for my F-Zero... it stalls while I'm at a stop... do you think I just need to adjust the idle screw on the carb?
Yes give that a try turn it clock wise 1/2 turn
watch out for the bbr stage one and two. reviews are not that great. nice video .
Thanks man I’ve definitely heard some mixed things about them
You can true the up and down its a issue with your axel and barrings
Nope it’s the rim itself I took it off
link to engine?
Hey I have a question what can cause the clutch to stick on a bike engine? My friend has a suetek 80 cc
Whatcha mean stick? Is that flower nut guy on the clutch plate too tight? Cable length proper? By sticking I'm assuming you mean it's not releasing that plate off the pads see if you can back that flower nut all the way out get the plate off(I'd replace pink pads with green ones on Amazon same price get the 30 pack that's 2 clutches and you'll not have to order those ever again haha:) if not though just proceed get the lever on the handlebars pulled in, then get the plate back on with the weak spring. I tend to stretch those to make them a little tougher when I put the plate back on. Get the flower nut tight BUT just by hand then back it off a turn and put your little screw back on that holds that nut there. I cut a big hole in my right side cover plate so I can access that at anytime
Ditch the chain tensioner
I’m gonna get one made for the felt frames
Get some #415 half links. They help get your chain just right. Because sometimes the chain ends up being too loose but when take off a link it ends up being way to short and that's where the half links come in hand.
Hey,is this similar to BT100?
This motor is very different from the bt100. They do have the same 50mm bore and single piece jugs but that is were the similarities end. This motor has a 40mm spread intake which allows for more aftermarket upgrades. It’s got a standard exhaust port instead of the huge round one on the bt100. This means that the bullet train will not have as many upgrade paths as the yd100. They both make about the same power stock but the port timing on the yd100 is a lot better for getting to higher rpm.
@@keeganhache6667 thnx
Did you even hit 10 mph 😳
Lol this was breaking in a little yd100 I’ve done 50mph plus before
I want one please lol take my money
They are great motors
@@keeganhache6667 any idea where i can get my hands one?
I'm a newbie with one electric bike experience lol
I wouldn't buy any of these motors, the pins that hold the piston on are designed to break off inside the motor destroying it.
40:1 cradle to grave bud
I agree to check out some of the new videos of my case reed
Yd is garbage. Zero compression and a dog . Slightly better than a 66cc
Lol that’s the bottom end I used for my 8hp case reed
And they want us to buy these frames? Wtf Bike Berry! I think I ll go electric or just buy a motorcycle instead
A bout as bad as the $300 dollar phantom motor, and they want $600 dollars for a bike that can't STAND NO WAY!, NOT WITH MY MONEY!
You are so wrong man this frame is meant for high output motors that have touque. Most frames once you get over the 7hp mark will snap a dropout or screw up the wheels.
Answer: no get an LD100
Why would I want to waste my time with that cylinder. It’s got so many issues I can’t list them all in one comment
@@keeganhache6667 hey ain’t nothing that can’t be fixed… well… not usually
@@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90 all of the mating surfaces for the intake and exhaust are paper thin and they are prone to air leaks and running lean. The ports them self are clean on the inside but they use a duel spark head which is not very good for cooling of the motor and they haven’t made any cnc aftermarket options that I know of.