@@MJAltairy haha. No biggie dude. I ended up picking up a couple of M8s I’ll let you know this Saturday if it works out for me. Otherwise it’s hammer time.
Super helpful and love that torque specs and proper process is followed vs using an impact gun on everything! You can rent a jaw puller tool at any auto parts store, but using penetrating spray a few days before, and then using a heavy sledge hammer on the hub will work better.
This is incredibly thorough, and yet straight to the point. You put together an excellent tutorial my friend! I’m really impressed and I’m one of thousands you helped build confidence for to do this job properly and efficiently. I know a good mechanic when I see one!
Thanks for putting this together. Just swapped out the front driver side bearing on my wifes Outback. Took 45 minutes with a 3lb sledge to get the old bearing off but other than that was a piece of cake. Extra thanks for the torque settings!
Well done. 25+ years of factory trained experience around me. You did everything plus the things they don’t do that make my eyes twitch (clean up mating surfaces). Haha.
Your video was perfect. The process and everything involved was the same as my 2006 B9 Tribeca except torque spec was 177 ft. lbs back then and the small dust shield that goes in the axle didn't appear to be a thing back then. Brake shield existed but mine was rusted out so it went in the trash. Besides I live off of a dirt road. Thank you!
Great informative video, whoever filming did a great job with the lighting and angles to see what you were talking about too. Also have the same Milwaukee impact as you and never knew you could program the torque. Thanks!
thanks man, since I keep my cars for long time (or usually plan to haha) I brush any rust rust off and clean more and use appropriate grease on every fitting, screws etc Except wheel lug nuts of course., Times have changed, I used to replace the bearings only and keep the bearing housing. Now days the assembly cost same as bearing itself, can't explain that but hey makes the job easier...Thanks again
I'm not a mechanic but from what I have researched you should torque the axle nut without the car being on the ground. I think the torque loads the correct pressure on the bearing. I use an infrared thermometer to locate the bad bearing. I point the dot to a lug nut on all the wheels and the bad bearing will show a higher temperature than the good ones.
Trick I use before replacing wheel bearings is to spray it with penetrating fluid at the back and leave it overnight or for a few days while still using the car. Be careful to not spray fluid on the rotors or brake calipers. Just a few light taps with a mallet or hammer, it should come out easy. I never had to use a pry bar.
Good video man. Getting ready to do this job myself and it's always helpful to know what you're getting into. Sure wish I still had my lift though. lol. Thanks.
Have been researching a front wheel bearing replacement for my 2015 Outback. From all I've seen and read the axle nut should be torqued with the wheel off?
This is actually news to me. I’ve done many wheel bearings/hub replacements and have done it both ways. Haven’t had any issues as long as you’re not over torquing or not torquing it down enough. After looking into it, it seems to be the better option though.
@@MJAltairy I wanted to thank you for your video. I just replaced my front bearing hubs and followed your video mostly. I did find it easier to install the axle nut by inserting a steel bar I had into the disc fins at the brake caliper while torqueing the nut.
If you don't have power tools this job is going to take significantly more time. As I get older, I'm learning; sometimes it's better to pay a mechanic to do it.
Help! I just drove 2500 miles into central Mexico from Tacoma Washington and at 120k miles I'm hearing a faint growl from my rear wheel bearing 2015 Outback. Will I need to find a Subaru dealership for parts and service or is the bearing a standard bearing not specific to the Outback? My problem here is that in rural central Mexico subaru dealers are not available? If I order online.... Do you think a local mechanic can accomplish the job?
Doesn’t need to be a dealer item. They should be readily available online. You can probably find the part on ebay, rockauto or amazon. I’m not sure of your location but you can usually order amazon packages to local hubs they have placed around major cities.
hi sir. i put on an chinese aftermarket wheel bearing hub on my car to save some $ i think it may have play when i grab and shake the wheel...it clicks very slight.. at first i thought its something else cos a new bearing shouldnt click but its definitely the bearing. However, it rotates really smooth and makes no noise spinning by hand or going down the road. the old bad oem one had no play but it made noise driving on the road so im confused about what i should do...throw money on oem or just leave it on...
Sorry me again, Actually dealer will not order the bearings until they analyze your problem, so they will probably keep your car over a week since they don't have stock for nothing even though most subaru's share the same parts.
Hey man, I followed this process on my 06 B9 Tribeca to eliminate play that my inspector found by pulling on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock points while in the air. He said it "might" be the wheel bearing so I followed this procedure which was almost identical. Glad I learned how to change the wheel bearing here but when I was done I realized I missed the mark and it was another issue. Any idea what this can be? ruclips.net/video/7n3gbE-RaNg/видео.htmlfeature=shared
With the car on the ground, are you able to spin that nut on tighter? Might just need to be tightened down more. Also, was the axle ever replaced? Maybe it’s not seated fully into the transfer case? The other thing i can think of is the C clip retainer on the other side of the axle (going into the transfer case). If that c clip isn’t there, i can see the cv axle sliding loose. Check if there’s play at on the other side of the hub (behind the bearing area) or play at the transfer case
@@MJAltairy Just wanted to say that I bought one on Amazon (FKG 513239) that was marketed as the correct bearing but it was like 3 times too deep. I went and got the MOOG unit (same part number as the one in the video too). Thanks for this video again. Could have not done it without you.
😢 The four retaining bolts don't come off either bar or with my rattle gun, access is fairly limited on the lower forward bolt even my narrow 14mm socket doesn't go on straight...
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Are you sure those are M18 bolts and not M8?
I’m looking at M18s right now and they’re waaaaaay bigger than those holes.
Yeah I could be very wrong on that one, I must’ve misread it when I was looking up the procedure.
@@MJAltairy haha. No biggie dude. I ended up picking up a couple of M8s I’ll let you know this Saturday if it works out for me. Otherwise it’s hammer time.
@@mrrrmcleod haha yeah keep us posted! I’ll update the description or pin the comment or something!
@@MJAltairy okay can confirm M8 coarse thread. That rotor came off real easy like. 😊
@@mrrrmcleod heck yeah! Awesome, thank you for confirming! Went ahead and pinned this comment thread for this video.
Super helpful and love that torque specs and proper process is followed vs using an impact gun on everything!
You can rent a jaw puller tool at any auto parts store, but using penetrating spray a few days before, and then using a heavy sledge hammer on the hub will work better.
This is incredibly thorough, and yet straight to the point. You put together an excellent tutorial my friend! I’m really impressed and I’m one of thousands you helped build confidence for to do this job properly and efficiently. I know a good mechanic when I see one!
Thanks so much, appreciate the kind words! Comments like this motivate me to keep making this type of content!
Thanks for putting this together. Just swapped out the front driver side bearing on my wifes Outback. Took 45 minutes with a 3lb sledge to get the old bearing off but other than that was a piece of cake. Extra thanks for the torque settings!
Appreciate the support! Glad i could help!
Well done. 25+ years of factory trained experience around me. You did everything plus the things they don’t do that make my eyes twitch (clean up mating surfaces). Haha.
Simple and fast
No bs no promoting special tools
Thanks
@@andredya9867 appreciate the awesome feedback!
Your video was perfect. The process and everything involved was the same as my 2006 B9 Tribeca except torque spec was 177 ft. lbs back then and the small dust shield that goes in the axle didn't appear to be a thing back then. Brake shield existed but mine was rusted out so it went in the trash. Besides I live off of a dirt road. Thank you!
I found this video the best so far in explaining from start to finish. Thank You
By far the most helpful video I found on this. Was exactly what I needed to replace the bearing and fixed my problem! Thank you!
Thank you! These are the comments that keep me going so i really appreciate your time dropping this comment!
Half the time i go full ugga dugga on it before i should (5:56) Great video. Doing this in a few days.
Clear, informative and helpful, especially to this non-expert. Great job.
Thank you!
Great informative video, whoever filming did a great job with the lighting and angles to see what you were talking about too. Also have the same Milwaukee impact as you and never knew you could program the torque. Thanks!
Doing both sides is a must
Special thank you for the torque settings. Much appreciated.
thanks man, since I keep my cars for long time (or usually plan to haha) I brush any rust rust off and clean more and use appropriate grease on every fitting, screws etc Except wheel lug nuts of course., Times have changed, I used to replace the bearings only and keep the bearing housing. Now days the assembly cost same as bearing itself, can't explain that but hey makes the job easier...Thanks again
Excellent explanation of how to get this done - and I don't even have an Outback 😂
😂 appreciate the love!
Great videography! Straight forward without a lot of fluff. You should wear eye protection.
I'm not a mechanic but from what I have researched you should torque the axle nut without the car being on the ground. I think the torque loads the correct pressure on the bearing. I use an infrared thermometer to locate the bad bearing. I point the dot to a lug nut on all the wheels and the bad bearing will show a higher temperature than the good ones.
....but he torqued it on the ground??
Correct. That bearing will fail prematurely
@@donalddavis3308 Oh sorry, I misunderstood.
Trick I use before replacing wheel bearings is to spray it with penetrating fluid at the back and leave it overnight or for a few days while still using the car. Be careful to not spray fluid on the rotors or brake calipers. Just a few light taps with a mallet or hammer, it should come out easy. I never had to use a pry bar.
I have the noise that sounds like a wheel bearing but how do i tell which wheel is making the noise?
I got traction control light on solid with flashing brake light what can be the problem tia love your videos
Humble guy , very easy to understand ✌ 👏
I’m looking to do this job for my cousin.
Should I put blue loctite on the 14mm bolts for the new bearing?
Where are you located? Trying to gauge how hard itll be in WA to get mine off. Also how's moog holding up for ya?
Good video man. Getting ready to do this job myself and it's always helpful to know what you're getting into. Sure wish I still had my lift though. lol. Thanks.
Have been researching a front wheel bearing replacement for my 2015 Outback. From all I've seen and read the axle nut should be torqued with the wheel off?
This is actually news to me. I’ve done many wheel bearings/hub replacements and have done it both ways. Haven’t had any issues as long as you’re not over torquing or not torquing it down enough.
After looking into it, it seems to be the better option though.
@@MJAltairy I wanted to thank you for your video. I just replaced my front bearing hubs and followed your video mostly. I did find it easier to install the axle nut by inserting a steel bar I had into the disc fins at the brake caliper while torqueing the nut.
@@ed9095 probably the better/recommended way to do it anyways! Thank you for watching and glad I could help!
If you don't have power tools this job is going to take significantly more time. As I get older, I'm learning; sometimes it's better to pay a mechanic to do it.
very nice , and so good explain !!!!! thank u !!!
Help! I just drove 2500 miles into central Mexico from Tacoma Washington and at 120k miles I'm hearing a faint growl from my rear wheel bearing 2015 Outback. Will I need to find a Subaru dealership for parts and service or is the bearing a standard bearing not specific to the Outback? My problem here is that in rural central Mexico subaru dealers are not available? If I order online.... Do you think a local mechanic can accomplish the job?
Doesn’t need to be a dealer item. They should be readily available online. You can probably find the part on ebay, rockauto or amazon. I’m not sure of your location but you can usually order amazon packages to local hubs they have placed around major cities.
Is this actually also for the 2020. The 2020 is a new generation
Appreciate the input! Good to know!
I fix new bearing, sometimes going, than tyer bearing outback, but why
Nicely done. Michigan ❤
hi sir. i put on an chinese aftermarket wheel bearing hub on my car to save some $
i think it may have play when i grab and shake the wheel...it clicks very slight.. at first i thought its something else cos a new bearing shouldnt click but its definitely the bearing.
However, it rotates really smooth and makes no noise spinning by hand or going down the road.
the old bad oem one had no play but it made noise driving on the road so im confused about what i should do...throw money on oem or just leave it on...
Did you make sure the axle nut and bolts holding bearing to spindle assembly is secured?
@@MJAltairy yeah they're all torqueed down properly
What would be the cost to have this done? I don't have the equipment to do it myself. Thanks!
Sorry me again, Actually dealer will not order the bearings until they analyze your problem, so they will probably keep your car over a week since they don't have stock for nothing even though most subaru's share the same parts.
Great Video....Thank you
Hey man, I followed this process on my 06 B9 Tribeca to eliminate play that my inspector found by pulling on the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock points while in the air. He said it "might" be the wheel bearing so I followed this procedure which was almost identical. Glad I learned how to change the wheel bearing here but when I was done I realized I missed the mark and it was another issue. Any idea what this can be?
ruclips.net/video/7n3gbE-RaNg/видео.htmlfeature=shared
With the car on the ground, are you able to spin that nut on tighter? Might just need to be tightened down more.
Also, was the axle ever replaced? Maybe it’s not seated fully into the transfer case?
The other thing i can think of is the C clip retainer on the other side of the axle (going into the transfer case). If that c clip isn’t there, i can see the cv axle sliding loose.
Check if there’s play at on the other side of the hub (behind the bearing area) or play at the transfer case
@@MJAltairy Just wanted to say that I bought one on Amazon (FKG 513239) that was marketed as the correct bearing but it was like 3 times too deep. I went and got the MOOG unit (same part number as the one in the video too). Thanks for this video again. Could have not done it without you.
@@jamesdean5677oh man that’s unfortunate you found out that way. Wrong item could’ve been boxed or something. Glad you got it sorted out
@@MJAltairy The correct part number is actually on the part making it even more scary. Appreciated.
show a rust bucket where you need a air hammer and a torch
I’ve got some toyota videos that involve those tools of persuasion 😂
2015 I unfortunately had to resort to air hammer.. 5 years and mileage makes a big difference
😢 The four retaining bolts don't come off either bar or with my rattle gun, access is fairly limited on the lower forward bolt even my narrow 14mm socket doesn't go on straight...
Needed a little persuasion?????? HA!! Try this on a central PA car, LOL.
Great videography! Straight forward without a lot of fluff. You should wear eye protection.