Subaru Outback Repair Series: #3 Front Wheel Bearing
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Moving right along in the Subaru Outback project.... In this video I bring you along as I knock out a front wheel bearing. Not a bad job but getting the lower ball joint out in the rust belt without destroying it can have its challenges. -Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained
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Where’s the link for the hoists?
If the bearing is bad who cares put the heat to it
Eric you should link the Brooks USA hammers. I just ordered a set and mentioned you. They are fans of yours too. What weight is yours?
I worked on cars for 30 years in the south. I don't think I would have made it 30 days in the "Rust Belt". Eric you are a fantastic mechanic.
I think one of the most impressive things I’ve seen Erik do well I hate this word it like that because most everything it seems impressive but what stands out a little more than the rest of his crafting/skills , for me it is hands down his diagnostic & electrical witch hunt type of troubleshooting, & knowledge,sometimes it can (seem ALMOST Dreary& Boeing (@Times🤷🏻) but I think that’s with anything like that,if you’re not familiar with it etc. Eric he knows his way around if I can diagnostic tool I’ll tell you want clearly he knows hisbway ery other department to but I admire that a little more than everything else he takes a little more than that he is on no learning curve little more technical
I have been turning wrenches (just a shade tree guy--not a pro) in the rust belt since 1988. I live here because I don't know any better. I think I hear that in Eric's comments as well. He talks about how things must be outside of the rust belt, kind of hypothetically. I watch so many of his videos of cars I will never own, and I always learn something about technique that can be used across the board. Rust never sleeps!
Wanna try doing struts on a 2006 Jeep grand Cherokee that has enough rust to push the limits of your tools 🤣. I was excited seeing the bolt move even if it was ever so slow
@@frankwatts1 You're right, he's a wizard at that stuff. Electrical issues are real
My CV axle would NOT go in! I figured it out, so I thought I would post this here to help someone else out down the road.
2012 Subaru Outback 2.5…The retainer ring had to be put in the differential (not onto the CV axle), then the CV could be installed. The depth of the retainer ring channel and the height of the CV spline was such that even when the retainer ring was fully compressed it was as tall as the CV spline. So the matching spline housing in the differential was not going to be able to pass by the ring. Everything on the internets said “just jerk it in, it’s tough but you gotta yank it, etc.” I was beat on it with a 8 pound sledge, I dremeled the retainer ring smaller, I ordered a factory retainer ring, I greased it, I squeezed it, I bent it, all over the course of 4 different nights working on it…nothing worked. I put the ring in the differential (which was nerve racking cuz I didn’t want it going into the diff), but then it jerked in appropriately on my third tug.
Also, the wheel bearing had been difficult to get out too. I popped the lug nut studs out. Got a 1/2inch by 5 inch full thread hardened bolt (O’reilly’s). Put the bolt through the stud hole with a nut on it. I had to remove the parking brake hardware so the bolt could rest/push against the parking brake dust cover (which had cast iron behind it). You have to leave the CV in with the nut on it, because otherwise the wheel bearing will separate. Use 3 or four bolts/nuts with an impact driver and some penetrating oil. The nut pushes the bearing out while the long bolt is pressing against the bearing housing. You’ll leave a mark on the dust cover, but so what.
'Don't hold them like that, hold them like a little baby!' ... when Eric O is directing the talent on set. Mrs O, thank you for your service.
Then proceeds to beat the crap out of a rusty rotor on top of the bit box
if you watch this channel in an irrationally dedicated manner like me its effectively a master class in anything an average person will need to do to a vehicle.
Please do a video on installing your new alignment rack
Yessir!! Agree!!
Saw 4 hunter techs install a new alignment rack at my current shop and that took them I wanna say a day and a half. Gotta make it level
Timelapse!
@@orchestracelloplayer 1 tech to install and level it, 3 techs to collect paychecks.
If people didn't know you sent one of your HF impacts to AvE, they clearly aren't watching the right channels.
Just did the front bearings on my 2010 Outback. Used the wheel stud removal/bolt pull method. Could not find the Astro "Last Chance" bolt set anywhere so used the Grade 8 bolts from local Lowes - worked equally good. Going air hammer was the second choice and burning the car down was the third :-). Used anti-seize on the bearing/knuckle mating surfaces. Not sure if it was a good idea but the bearings are in there now, no going back. Thanks Eric for lifting my spirits to get this job done. Shops in my area think they fix space rockets and charge like brain surgeons. Thanks once again.
Hi,
I love your humors! If I may make a suggestion when taking the cotter pin off. If you cannot straighten the "tails" you can cut the two tails off of the cotter pin. Next, using a small pick, insert the it through the eye of the cotter pin. Then you can use a small hammer and tap on the shaft of your pick to pull the rest of the cotter pin off. After you remove the castle nut, you can reverse mount the castle nut so that the serrated end is now facing the bottom of your ball joint. Run the castle nut up so that its solid end is now flushed with your stud. You can use a penny or a small piece of steel to protect your stud when using your ball joint puller. Or you can tap the stud now with your hammer. The solid end of the castle nut is much stronger than the serrated end. I hope this helps your viewers. Please keep up the humor while you work! :)
Eric, scotty Kilmer's picture in the background is priceless, almost like he's watching you change out that wheel bearing.
Eric, you are a gem. Sense of humor, good camera work, good solutions, a lot of output. Most people couldn't make this interesting.
I love the scotty Kilmer picture on your white board. Been binge watching your videos this last week. You do great work.
I'm so happy I live in Australia where I can take my suspension apart without a gas axe and big nasty
Don't worry global climate change (snicker snicker) will have you in snow within a few years....mate.
9:20 Fluid film Scotty in the background, watching Eric O. work! Love it 👍😜
Adis Halimic I noticed that pic of Scotty too.
I look so forward to your videos not only do I learn a lot but your funny commentary, sound effects and BIG NASTY music is a hoot. Keep up the good work.
Glad to see the changes for the alignment machine. Bring more money back into the shop.
Love the BAA sound effect when the Fluid Film came out. Glad you brought it back.
Dude i LOVE AVE. I wish i could sit down for lunch with you two and just absorb all of the tribal knowledge
The fact that your willing too spend extra money too make your customer experience better speaks volums of ur work ethic. Your a great buisness owner. Good job man
i have to replace almost everything under my subaru because the previous owner drove it through snow and never washed it off. so its completely rusted. so.. i figured if a mechanic can do it, i can figure it out. thanks for the videos! adding these in my arsenal of videos to refer back to when i start.
I have changed the front axles one 2 Subaru's. Being as I am terrified of wrecking the ball joints I took the strut off. I paint mark the bolt heads, as one is cammed and have had no alignment issues.
Certainly not best practice but works for us backyard mechs.
Very happy for you on your alignment rack! You’re due for some new lifts. Always admired your high quality repairs and standards.
You’re better than anything on Television. It’s great watching and learning from you.
Hey Mr.O, just wanted to let you no I appreciate your work and time invested in making all your videos. Seriously your the top 1. On my RUclips thing.
So here's my problem, I want to support your channel by buying your swag, stupid teespring sucks. I wanted two sweatshirts, originally, stupid teespring wants to charge me for everything I looked at. So my bill was almost 150$. And it was a major pain to cancel said order, And reorder, now I'm pissed and reordered one sweatshirt.
I just wanted to give you my feedback of teespring. Still love you and your channel and your hard work. It's much appreciated, just wanted to let you no teespring sucks.
Suggestion... when trying to hold the cv axle into get to the hub bolts, ive used a open closed wrench, slip the closed end on one of the studs, hold in place with wheel nut, then with the open end, go across the axle close to a wheel stud if not on it, add a washer and use another nut, should hold your cv axle pushed in
SMA is the greatest channel on the YT
great video, I live in canada so our cars have square tires, and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of rust, and because we don't have electricity yet we only use wrenches, not those yellows noisy things.
Mrs. O is the Ultimate Tool Girl 😍
Careful. Eric has the means.
@OGL iaDL 20 acres and a shovel.
I was taught to put.a nickel under pointed shaft to keep from getting it damaged and it works for me
Great tip!
@@SouthMainAuto That was a MAC screwdriver, right?
@@jeffryblackmon4846 snap on
They say, not a prybar. Doesn't say anything about not wedging it in between a puller and ball joint stud to prevent mushrooming! Brilliant stuff Eric O!
@@SouthMainAuto Don't remember when I last held a nickel in my hands, but its indeed a great tip.
Even with rust and corrosion you've got the removal down pat to a few tools. Nice job! Next up, lower ball joint removal/replacement on this Subaru!
Quick tip from someone who has learned many tips from you! I always use a 2 jaw puller around the hub pushing in on the axle to push and hold it in to gain better access to the bolts.
can you link the part where he was using a 1-jaw puller. I'd like to see the difference
I might need to do that aswell. Lol
Almost 3am. Can’t sleep. SMA to the rescue with a fresh Subaru video😀👍
moved to phoenix from massachusetts a while back and helped my brother take apart a 53 dodge truck for parts. Had the original brake lines on it which came right out of the wheel cylinders! I feel your pain been there.
Good old corrosion welds. The bane of any mechanics existence.
Had to replace all 4 of mine on my 09 forester it was so fun with no air tools.
No wonder used Florida cars are desirable in upper NY state. I'm impressed with your wide range of skills.
Another bed time story from SMA ♥️♥️
Alignment racks are the beans. Mine paid for itself in 18 months. It will also bring in alot of easy money front end work. Good luck with it.
Hey there! Just watching for fun. I find that to remove axle it's easier to pull the strut bolts and rotate the wheel. I don't like working on ball joints and this way you have clearance without messing with that dang ball joint.
Love the Subaru videos. Mostly because we have 2 in the driveway and I've been spending a lot of time with the 2010 Forester XT. I'm currently on the hunt for a pigtail for the secondary air valve with the barometric sensor in it. Thanks to Mr. Mouse.
Weirdly enough if you have comprehensive coverage it probably covers rodent damage
Great video, I’ve just done mine, after getting the 4 bolts out from the back, the rest took 3 minutes. A wood chisel down the back of the bearing, prized 1mm from the top, hit up then 2 from the bottom - all out in one go, sensor all good. No messing taking extra stuff off or welding this and that.
The 4 bolts came out in situ
I love the Caution Occasional Flying tools in this area sign... I need that lol
My '05 outback had the factory hubs on still and only took me 20 minutes to do all four. I will take a Colorado car any day then go back to the Vermont weather and working on those cars. Didn't even have to use any impacts!
I live about an hour from SMA and my cars have NEVER looked like the vehicles he works on. I wash my car at least 3X weekly during the winter and usually just as much in the summer. My ‘15 Outback had minimal rust on it when I traded it in.
Funny! I was literally righting a comment to ask you about the HF impact and you answered it while I was typing.
Doctor O!!! First time caller, long time listener. Thank you for all the amazing vijeos, I've learned a ton. Just wanted to share my trick for getting cotter pins out. I like to straighten them out as best I can, then clamp the head down with the needle nose vice grips and tap them out with my ball peen on the pliers. If it slips off I just clamp her on a little tighter. Haven't met one yet that can resist! Try it sometime and thanks again for all the hilarious and informative content! 🤘
Dual rail lift makes front end work so much easier. Growing the business.
Love the content of the video like it when people come in and interact with you on the videos Mrs o children Vinny shows that you're just an average Joe keep safe love you guys
Just replaced my mom’s 2011 other night. I had a lot of issues with that axle in the way as well. I had to move that axle in a lot and I used a small crow bar to keep it in. That helped me remove those bolts. Still, not an easy job. My Duramax hub replacement, much easier!!!
Funny how the whole family works with you!!!👍👍👍
i just changed a front wheel bearing on my 2011 outback today thanks to this video! first time doing it, up until now i'd only done brakes and oil changes (and an alternator on my old car). i disconnected the strut instead of the ball joint but this was super helpful, thanks borther!
We just bought a new alignment rack at our garage. They sure don't give those things away. I asked the salesman if he wanted to sponsor one of his racks? He gave me a puzzled look …..! lol.
WOW ! That is one fast die grinder and Roloc disc !
I’ve got one of those De Walt impacts- they are a beast. Leant it to my friend who used it on a locking wheel but proceeded to strip it in half. Lesson learnt...
As you tried to get away without removing the axle, I admit I was hoping you'd fail, ha ha. In the end we got to see how you do it when things don't go so well, which is always a treat.
I wire brushed the ends of the hub bolts that were poking out, they came out much easier that way.
I like to put heat on the hub bolt threads from the front side. You can get the bolts out without freeing the axle. Use a thin wall socket and put a little lube on the outside so it doesn’t rub the cv boot. I found it amusing that you went through the trouble of freeing the axle and then danced around the wheel speed sensor.
Eric, you sprayed the outside threads with nutsoff and drove out the bolt a bit, at this point before you run it back in to clean it you spray the inside threads, then run it back in and back out, the bolts will come out much easier.
Thank you for convincing me not to try this. My Subaru is going to need this soon (at 100,000 or 110,000) and this is way beyond my tool set.
I haven't had my air hammer out since 1995, when I had to work on a Canadian Astro Van. I love Florida!!!!!
I have a rear wheel bearing to do on my wife’s ‘08 Subaru Outback Sport. Already beat the snot out of it and didn’t come off. So it’s time to switch up tactics and maybe go air hammer.
I love the Astro right angle impacts for brake jobs. Plenty of power, especially in the 1/2 gun, and almost always fit.
Damn, that cv axle came out of the hub wicked easy!
HI Mrs. O, you and Eric are great couple. You are a lovely lady. I mean that with the utmost respect to you both.
If you release the terminals of the stabilizer bar, it is easier to lower the arm than to lever it. I have already done it and it is easier.
Gotta love Big Nasty in action! She gets it done!
I guess one lift comes with a brand-new pump! Looking forward to more alignment videos... it's a dark art!
That's a great ballpeen hammer joke, I've had that thought!
Just smack the control arm with a hammer to pop the balljoint out. Works everytime! And it’s not cast aluminum so you can hit it as hard as you want. Can’t say the same for STIs
you describing the new alignment lift and setup, started giving me that familiar feeling.....we wont go into details, but lets just say.......
Thank you for getting the extra long alignment rack. I had a heck of a time finding someone with a rack long enough to align my 191" wb F450.
for a stuck cotter pin, I'll put a small punch in the hole and then pry against a big flat screwdriver, or gently tap the punch with a brass hammer.
About time you purchased a alignment machine, state of the art I presume!!!!
Great new look Mrs.O….cute as a button!!
These videos are amazing! Keep up the work!
Hey Eric, Next time you have to pull a cotter pin, Try grasping it with those side cutters by the head, then hitting the joint of the pliers with a hammer, That usually impacts the pins right out. Thanks for all your videos.
dude that wouldnt help, do you even wrench?
That can work in certain situations and certain angles but not all the time. Also depends on how badly the cotter pin has rusted in and wedged. Anti-seize is your friend if you install a new one but if you don't care about the next person removing it, just tap it in. This is what most techs do anyways 🙂
Eric,
Great repair and video - thank you! Best of luck with the new alignment rack and new lifts. Please bring us along for a quick shop tour when everything is up and running.
SMA#1
God bless
Paul (in MA)
Vice Grips work great on cotter pins!
😉👍
Little kids into baseball are like oldmen, they are the only people on earth who read the sports section of the newspaper
SMA and IPA break! Doesn't get much better!
Mrs.O is comedy gold.
They don’t get loose on Subarus. I couldn’t tell you why but they don’t, maybe the design of the hub assembly added onto there being four axles lol. But I’ve done hundreds of them and never had one wiggle. Just ROAR
Give my regards to Vinny, a hearty handshake from Florida!
Congrats on the the alignment rack! Can’t wait to see those videos!
10:30 Scotty watching you take out that cotter pin.🤣😂
Sweet! New lifts in the making!
Oh and thanks for the life lesson on the pin. Never had to just impact the nut out. I usually go through the process of removal before taking the nut off. Which in rusty cars involves punches and drill bits. Lol but thanks
Wire wheeling the exposed [rusty] nubs of the bearing bolts to clean threads makes that part of the job that much easier. Especially when the rust binds up the threads and you end up rounding over the rusty hex head. Don't ask me how I know ('05 outback)
I always remove the two bolts on the strut, easyier than the ball joint, cut off the rusty threads that go past the bearing ..... works every time.
But everytime you do that it needs a frontend alignment.
Then you need an alignment. They are cam bolts OEM on a Subaru
The most corrosion resistant vehicles I’ve seen here in Michigan, is the Audi’s. those green coated bolts they use. They just come right apart after 20 years
Excited for you to get an alignment rack!!!
Crusty the snowman, lol. I tried taking the wheel bearing out of my 2004 matrix but the whole thing was a rusted mess, so just doing the wheel hub assembly 🙁
LOL 2 SMA videos? I was like is this Christmas? then it turned into a sales commercial at 24:00, I haven't seen the My Pillows in the back ground yet but I'm sure they are coming. :)
I work in southern onterrible Canada. You need to get a selection of wire wheels and cups for you die grinders and electric angle grinders. Rust be gone! Way cheaper than those abrasive pads
Long time viewer, first time comment. If you’ve ever seen the “Red Green”, your voices are exactly the same! My wife’s 2015 Subaru Forester is a bear to work on. The wheel studs break way too easily. Subaru owners tell me the threads are too fine, and I’m wondering if there’s a course thread substitute. 👍👍👍👍
Rick, I give it to you, you have it !!! I believe you are correct in coining a new phrase, " the corrosion belt" . I am amazed at the condition of the underside of most of these vehicles. One question: to witt, I would always have a pint can if neversieze, with a acid brush in it, and put a dab on all threads of chassis nuts and bolts, etc....good idea ??
Who's Rick? No anti-seize for safety. Grease or Fluid (Baa-Baa) Film.
Yes sir, I put it on everything I work on, next time I work on that vehicle, years later, I don't have to get the torch out.
I like the goat sound effects for the fluid film sir! 👍👍
I had a wobble in the front left. Thought it was the cv axel so I replaced it. Helped a little but not completely. Found the hub to also be loose so I replaced that too. I was lucky I guess. Didn't need to remove the cv axel to replace the hub. But having done that just two months earlier not a big deal. The new hub was fine for about 15 miles then the wobble came back. The new hub has the same free play as the worn one and spins a bit easier than out of the box. What would cause immediate premature wear like that? The axel nut was torqued to spec.
I have this job tomorrow but I live in sunny Southern California. Wish me luck!
Watched all 4 straight through love your vids man