I have been an aircraft mechanic for 30+ years and I want to complement you on what a great job you do in narrating your videos. They are done for anyone at any level to understand and done with some personality ....Great Job....Mark
The first 10 minutes went by, my wife asked what the hell I was watching .... I told her a guy removing a bolt.... Figure I better go find something to do...
When you save a couple thousand working on her broken car --- she will be able to spend most of the savings somewhere, as all women do,then you keep watching You Tube Videos
Eric, Drew Charles here. I'm just glad to watch this again for the 10th time. I always get a kick out of your work. I am always on pins and needles waiting for you to break out the pickle fork. you do a great job and your narrative is superb. anybody on any level of technical experience could greatly enjoy your work. Thank you. I know this video is over two years old and I still love it over and over thank you again. I don't even know if you still read comments on two-year-old videos, but thank you anyway. Drew-Charles
I grew up in Northeast Ohio as a kid back in the 1970'/early 1980's before moving to Sunny Florida .My Dad was a Pennsylvania coal miner and was sick very badly with Black lung .He could barely breath .I remember watching my Dad out laying under those old rust bucket cars that we own in the middle of freezing winter out frozen to the bone wrenching on those cars and Bizziching the whole time. .I remember him cursing the engineers out from under the car and Always saying "God what did I do so Bad in life to deserve this crap ?? Ha ha ..We moved to Florida where he passed away 5 years later from the Black lung ..He spent his last 5 years in life wrenching on rust free cars ha ha ..Rest In Peace Dad ...
billjones citrus county florida, the majority of that rust could have been avoided, by simply applying a vehicle undercoating........Why they prefer the damage is beyond me.
thank you and your dad for keeping this country going...thats why I love old American Cars!.....cause of men like your dad..its sad that people give their money to Honda!
FLorida here too.... so glad I don't live where cars literally dissolve. All my vehicles are 20 years old or older and they work fine, and have very little rust under them.
Everybody wants to move down here to get away from the ice and rust, and don't think about the alligators, hurricanes and unbearable heat. And you should see what living near a FL beach can do to a car in a year. Salt air can blow for blocks all year round. First, the door panels start melting....
@@lucygray6162 I'll keep my salt and cold to avoid the heat and no break from insects and vermin. At least I know what Im Getting here in Ohio by season. Spring, ants and chipmunks. Summer ground hornets and chipmunks lol. Fall wolf spiders come in to say high.... winter. Damn field mice move in some years one or two all year then like this past year. It was Mice-athon 5000 lol Cost of being in an older home 🤷🏼♂️ Still better than heat 👉🥵
Eric O. next time take the inner bolts off the lateral link arms at the sub-frame. Once the bolts are out pull down on the arms. They will rotate on the bushings and you'll never need to deal with that big bolt again. Ten years of working on Subies at dealers in Massachusetts and New Hampshire has taught me you can't buy experience but it sure is expensive when it comes to rusty bolt removal. Hope this saves you some time and heartache in the future.
This was the very first video I watched. 4 years later still watching. You Sir are a Prime example of the American people and Her spirit. May God bless you and your family
Watched this on my phone 2 days ago while waiting to go in for my back surgery. It was calming to watch Eric battling some rust to take my mind off the matter.
The bastard bolt as we call it! Bloody farmers here in Scotland love their Subaru and like driving in shit and salted roads. Pays to have a spare hub and arms to swap out the whole lot and overhaul the unit on the bench for next car. Just drop the lot,hub,arms etc and bolt on a spare unit. Makes for a faster turnaround and shitty one can be refurbed in time between jobs.
wysetech2000 I don't know if it's the climate,the way they are driven,where they are driven or just the car is hard on consumables but they knock out bearings and brakes quite readily. I also replace a lot of bushes on them. It is the preferred option to drive one around here. As capable as a four by four but a faster and nicer drive.
Thanks so much for your great videos, you can't imagine how much time and effort you save all of us that are doing this at home. I'm in my 70's, and have always done all of the work on my own vehicles - most everyone I know hates to work on vehicles, but I've always looked at it as occupational therapy - nothing makes me feel as good as when I fix the problem and take the vehicle out for a "test drive". And I always take the opportunity to buy new tools to make my life easier! I live in southwestern Colorado, and have never really appreciated the LACK of rust we have here - now, every time I manage to loosen a stuck bolt, I'll be seeing the Unicorns dancing around! Thanks again for putting a smile on my face!
Eric, I'll tell you what, It's amazing being able to work on a car without needing to be concerned about rust and corrosion as you appear to be, It's made me very grateful for my experiences with dismantling suspension components and having minimal issues with them, and your channel has opened my perspective up to the fact that it can be a whole lot harder than I've experienced in the past. Keep making them awesome RUclips videos, really enjoying watching them!!!
Thanks for this video. It helped take the assembly apart for originally a CV boot replacement job. I have a 98 Forester with only 75k but the rubber parts are rotting out. One of the long bolts came out with the back and forth method using the impact wrench you demonstrated. The other was hopelessly frozen on the forward bushing. On that I cut the bolt head, used a small three arm puller to press it out of the trailing arm bushing, slid the knuckle off with a 5lb persuader, then used the three arm puller to press out the bushing and remaining bolt from the front control arm. It was one of the tougher car jobs I've done for sure. The other side that the bolt came free had the axle stuck to the hub. I pounded, pulled and heated that to oblivion so its getting new half axle, hub, seals and bearing just in case things got warped and/or melted. I don't want to pick this fight with it again so I plan on taking that bolt out at the beginning of every winter when I put my snow tires on and slopping some anti seize on it. Its easy enough to get to with the impact.
People who don't like their bill should watch this video to see how much work and specialized tools are needed to do accomplish a job like this. Factor in how much more difficult it would be on a poorly lit garage floor with poor lighting and the wrong tools, and you get a feel for what life is like on the other side of the wrench. On the plus side, you've sold me on a Big Nasty, I've always wanted an air hammer that was worth using.
Here from Good OLD Northern California. Not sure why i watch your rusty videos when I rarely ever come across your problems, but it sure is something good to watching.
Eric, you wonder what it would be like to live in a place without rust. Well, I have a good friend named Max who lives here in Phoenix now and is a Master Technician for Lexus. His home was Montreal, Canada. When I talk with Max about the difference between Phoenix and Montreal he has a simple analogy. Heaven vs. Hell. I asked him if he was ever moving back home and he nearly hit me with the sander we were using to prep his car for paint. I took his response to my question as a solid NO!
I am a DIY'er and live up on Canada where rust is a serious problem. I will sit through an hour of Eric pounding away at a part just to see if staying at it will work. I did a complete rebuild of the front end of my daughters car and wimped out on the lower control arms and let a 'real' mechanic do it because I could not get the bolts off. After watching this video I realize I should have just kept going. This is the best channel on RUclips because I will watch Eric O grind away at a bolt for 50 minutes!
Been a while since you made this video. My nissan x-trail was the same setup. Left rear failed the safety. 5 hours of scrapping with it. I won. No new bolt to be had in my small town. I saved the bolt, it wasnt as bad as this one. So since i replaced last one i have been soaking other side heavily whenever i get it into shop. One guy on big nasty, other one with impact spinning bolt. Fix junk and put it on the internet. Thats what you do! I just like to watch some one else deal with the same crap i also do on a daily basis. I have no problem with hard work, i can watch it all day!
Wow, now I know what my mechanic went through replacing my Outback's RR wheel bearing! Definitely glad I didn't attempt that repair. Living in the rust belt has its challenges.
Thank you for this! I am not a mechanic and have barely turned wrenches in my life. I live in Albany,NY and my 04 Forester XT needed a new brake backing plate. I went and dusted off my grandfather's Mac and Snap on stuff and pulled what looks like a .401 1980s Mac Impact hammer. Using this and my little Makita compressor and your techniques I was able to pop this horrible bolt out without roasting the bushings in about an hour or so! I referred to this video many times and cannot say thank you enough for taking your own personal free time to record and edit these videos! This really did help me tremendously and I learned alot. TYSM man!
Hey Eric. here's a thing to try next time. Assuming you have an arc welder. Put the ground clamp on the head of that rusty bolt. Set the amperage way low. Use any big fat electrode. Dead short on the nut end. Hold it until the bolt is red hot. Then start the beating. We love heat.
Elias Bargee That is true. You are likely to melt the rubber bushings. You can replace them in the car, and you are likely to destroy them anyway. You would have to compare the cost of the bushings to the time and frustration etc.
the bolt is heated up pretty good already... i like to shoot it with a CO2 extinguisher to shrink the bolt after heated, it usually pops right out after that
Eric, former tech here from Michigan if you have not tried it before, put a stand under the knuckle and lift it a couple of inches. I have had SOME luck and get a few out no problem time to time, when the lower arms stop pulling on the bolt. At full droop the arms are pulling in and the strut is pushing out, it helps bind the bolt I think. With lifting it every now and then I get lucky and one zips right out.
RRRRRRUUSSSTTT! I hate rust. Used to be a mechanic years ago. Now I only do jobs like this for my own personal amusement. And yes, I know what hardcore rust is I live in New Jersey! You kicked ass and took names. Great job Eric!
The amount of salt that gets dumped on the roads in the NE US just defies belief. Here in Western Canada there's not nearly as much, partly because it gets cold enough that salt doesn't work anymore, and partly because people don't expect that their roads will be snow-free all winter.
After my wife and I left your shop last fall, we took a drive through the finger lake area and then headed up through a national forest to Lake Champlain. Upstate NY has some beautiful scenery. We even talked about moving up for a couple of years so we could see more of NY and the New England area. (We're retired now). Then I watch a video like this and I only have to imagine myself lying on my back under my vehicles dealing with crust and I am brought back to my senses. We don't need salt down here in Texas, we just stay home for a day and wait for the the ice to melt. :)
being a technician here in Florida we see a lot rust because it seems like 80% of New Yorkers when they retire move to Florida and bring their Rusty Vehicles here so most the time it's not too bad but we still get the New York rust lol
You guys are a peninsula. Those by the ocean are susceptible to rust just by letting the car sit and getting rained on. Granted the cars I've seen from Florida have mild surface rust but still. It's nothing like Nevada
We get a lot of rusty Subaru’s in Whistler, BC. I find torching the long bolt in half in the middle of the knuckle and air hammering each 1/2 out from the middle. We stock the bolts and bushes for this reason. If you don’t have a bolt, mark the inbound control arm alignment bolts and disconnect the arms inbound. We also use the hydraulic OTC hub grappler which is sweet.
Hey thanks for this vid. I have this car, 2007 WRX and bearing is getting noisy. I'm up here in NH. I've been a Ford truck mechanic for past 25 yrs. And I 'll have to tackle this in my driveway :(( We'll see how it goes. TY again for this informative video!!!!
My originally owned, daily driven through mountains of Michigan snow, 04 WRX wagon needed rear brakes in 2016. No prob, had done it before. This time I managed to ding the ABS tone wheel. Uh oh. The shop I took it to ended up cutting a wishbone to get it apart. I have been a professional race mechanic for 30 years and agreed that was the only way to move forward. The bolt had swelled from rust and was no longer a bolt. Rust is when I pay a shop to work on my car. Totally appreciate your effort and video. My 17 yr old WRX with 300hp has been the love of my car life, and to watch it rust away to a piece of junk is killing me
I see your struggle brother. That was a great visual when the rust started breaking apart. I lived in Southern California when I was a mechanic and I didn't know how good I had it. Now that I'm in TN, I'm back in the semi-rust belt. Not as bad as you boys but not as nice as California either. Great video!
Even after a year, I like to come back to this video just to see Eric O. busting ass on scrap metal. Man Eric , you know the" In's and Out's" with a rust battle. Please continue on ........
When I lifted my SUS and had to tear the entire rear suspension apart, made sure to just go ahead and order all new mounting hardware and bushings because knew I was going to have to shred everything.
Thanks for all the years of these videos Eric. Have one of these to do next week and was looking for someone who has already done it. Pleasantly surprised to find your videos up top when I went looking.
I'm in Florida, there's no unicorns! I have experienced the same crap that you deal with growing up in the great white North. I was under my 11 year old F 150 the other day and it still has original part sticker's on most of the components and NO rust!
In this video South Main Auto Repair demonstrates the the reasoning for the “Shop Supply” charges.....10% goes toward stocking penetrating oil, 10% toward the new air compressor fund, 10% to replacing damaged tooling, 20% for miscellaneous (shop towels, toilet paper and hand degreaser) and 50% of the Shop Supply charges goes to the swear jar fund.....
I remember Ohio had the inspections that your car had to pass to be able to get your license plates .Our cars were rotted out shells of what used to be cars ha ha .My Dad had to rig those cars every year to get them to pass ..We were poor and didn't have a Pot to piss in so buying a good car was out of the question for us ..I remember one time the car went in for inspection and they found a leaky brake line and failed the car .My Dad was like Shizzit what am I going to do ? I can't afford to buy steel brake line to redo this car .He went to the hardware and bought like 20 ft of copper line and took his flaring tool and a hacksaw and made new brake line out of that .he painted the copper line black with spray paint and climbed under the car and put it in then drove back to the inspection place and passed ...My Dad said if the inspector knew that the brake lines were copper line they would have failed this car on the spot ha ha but it worked and we drove that car many years ...We had a 1972 Pontiac Bonneville that was rotted out badly ..We got pulled over and the Ohio state trooper did a roadside inspection and failed dad's car because the emergency brake didn't work .The trooper told dad to get that fixed and get it signed off that it was fixed and pay the fine ...My Dad climbed under the car and the cable was broken and the brackets where the cable ran were rusted out .My dad was like how the hell an I supposed to fix this ??? He said I've got to do something to pass .This is the only car we got ...He got his welder out and took a steel bar and climed up under the dash and welded the bar onto the emergency brake peddle arm up under the dash where it couldn't be seen .The bar ran acrossed over to the regular brake peddle and when you pushed the E- Brake peddle down that bar pressed the brake peddle down and held the car in place .Dad took a toggle switch and cut the brake light switch wire and made it where when he was told to hit the E-Brake the brake lights wouldn't come on and cause him to fail ...We went into the inspection and the trooper told dad to hit his regular brake and put the car in gear and give it a little gas to make sure the brakes worked and the trooper stood behind the car ..then the trooper told dad to apply the emergency brake and do the same test .Well dad hit the switch so that the brake lights wouldn't come on then he pressed the E-Brake peddle down which also pushed the regular brake peddle down and the car passed ha ha .My dad went in paid the fine and we were on our way down the road ....I remember my dad saying on the drive home " I pray for the day that I don't have to drive this junk and can get a good car that I don't have to rig .ha ha ..Old memories I'll never forget from my childhood
Thanks, I love to hear others tell of the "good old times", occasionally I get to tell a story and today's "kids" have absolutely no idea what it was like in the 50's, and 60's. My dad had a "gas" station so "fxin' " stuff was a daily thing for our customers. A guy that worked for my dad would test spark plugs by holding the plug wire and he would jump a bit every time that plug would fire; he could tell a bad plug/wire by how hard he jumped. No snappy scanner for him; fuel trims? naw, just smell the exhaust pipe. Thanks for the memories, yours and my dad's Bob L
Man that's some wonderful memories. I relate to rigging chit to get by inspections. I live in western pa, and rusted up junk was all i owned years back. I lay on the ground in the winters many times fixing chit. People not from around here have no idea what we go through. Right now my 02 subie has a bad ball joint driver side. 152000 original joint in it. It's nasty out right now, and i got to crawl, and fix it tomorrow. Be laying in the snow. It's softer than my gravel thats underneath. lol
billjones citrus county florida I just had to get my car inspected in Missouri. What a joke. Failed me for an inner tie rod. When I climbed under my car to get the boot off I about impaled my temple on a bolt meant to hold the sub-frame on that was sticking out 2 inches. Brought it back and asked if they even looked at my car.
@@whozaskin3639 Some of us aren't as obiviously young as you. Forty-Five years ago copper wasn't as expensive as steel brake line. I replaced more than one copper brake line hack job on my multiple 70's VW Rabbits that I bought to drive and cars I repaired for friends when I was in School.
Did one of these a week or three ago, driveshaft was stuck in the bearing/hub flange. Whole assembly sat in the press overnight in a bath of wd40 still stuck in the morning. By midday I had enough, took cover behind the press post and maxxed out pressure until something was about to break. Shaft cracked loose with an almighty bang and a shower of wd. This is Australia with no rust belt issues......
Thank you Eric! My son has the same Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon (probably same year by the looks). And I have to replace the rear driver side wheel bearing. Exactly what you showed. Yours was a really good explanation, and entertaining. Now I have some hope. We just recently put a new clutch on the thing. After all the work that took, I can't let this car die! It has 188,000 miles. We live in PA, so rust is a big problem. I told my son to start saving for another car. That you again, I subscribed to your channel!
Awesome video! I learned a lot of tips and tricks from the Master. Don't let the head swell too much : ) Hope you enjoyed your lunch. No updates needed about the aftermath. Lol
@@cameltoeinspector6015 No. Snow and salt = rust. No snow and salt in most of California, a tiny bit if you live in the mountains, nothing like NY and the Northeast experience.
@@thevoyager63 i live in NY but i went to Tahoe many times and they get far more snow out there than anywhere on the east coast but it appears they are much more environmentally considerate and so they dont put down any salt on the roads... They just plow and spread dirt or sand over the roads and then i saw they go right back out and sweep it all up after it melts back down too...
I love watching "some guy removing a bolt." It is hard to explain just how entertaining Eric O. is. But really, this is the most fun, relaxing, enjoyable video I watch.
It is certainly quite handy if you can foresee yourself as being that guy at some point! I would imagine most of us watching videos like this fall into that category.
2003 Subaru Forester. The right rear wheel bearing needs replaced every 60k miles like clockwork since new. This is a common known (design?) issue. I also remember my mechanic mentioning (cursing) that same long bolt, lol. Another great video. Thanks!
Great videos all the time from you I have a 99 Subaru Impreza Outback with drum brakes in the back and I need to change out a wheel bearing but I want to do it on the car like you did which press tool would you recommend for the easiest in and out of the bearing thank you
Eric, I know nothing is gonna hold up against the red monster in your area forever, but have you ever tried the copper based never seize, the gold stuff? I switched years ago and it stays on and works a lot better in my experience. Someone told me or I read somewhere that the silver zinc based stuff was originally made for marine applications and works best with stainless steel, and the copper stuff was intended for "iron" or carbon steel
I work on boats as well that go in salt water. Have silver and copper anti-sieze for the cars. Copper really works well with high heat areas. Never use copper or silver in marine on aluminum blocks or lower units. The metals react in salt water and you get galvanic corosion. I have special marine anti-sieze that cantains no metals. It is moly based and seems to hold up the best. You can also use water proof marine grease called 2-4-C on some applications like prop shafts. Having a car in NY is about the same as driving it in salt water! Keep up the great videos Eric.
The other advantage of copper antiseize is that when it gets all over you it looks like you've got a healthy tan rather that as Eric said: "looking like the tin man."
To your commit about working up in the northeast compared to being in the south. I lived over fifty years just north of you (Utica) and pulled wrenches a long time, still doing it for myself on my '07 Sport trac and when you get under it I have to laugh that I can still see the tags from when it was made. It is a big difference. So, from Myrtle Beach, SC, I want to let you know how much I enjoy your videos.
@@rinunculartoo3006 It would really depend on the stainless, and steel mating. You can still get galvanic corrosion whic is what causes the materials to mate: www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89 Copper antisieze is good stuff, and maybe fastners should be coated with copper since it doesn't rust to steel as readily.
its not so much the bolts, its the bushings. They kinda rust and glue themselves in place and the impact gun hits are just kinda absorbed by the rubber. They don't actually get a lot of movement though their arc of travel.
@@rickw4160 yeah seems like a specalised screw clamp would go a long way, on both bushings. Something like the three-fingered clamps they have in chemistry sets. Or you know, like, a million tiny hits from a numatic hammer whatev.
Hy dude! Really nice video! You helped me a lot....with your video, I decided doing this job on my 2007 Subaru Forester 2.5 XT myself:-). Thanks a lot from Switzerland, Markus. PS: I like your comments:-)
I had a rear spring break on a 2000 Silverado and we literally had to melt the bushings in order to get the bolts out ! May have been a better way to take the bolts out but I couldn’t think of one ! Doing that I feel your pain Eric.
Sorry That you have to work with all that rust I live in Texas and work in San Antonio area where we really don’t see anything like that it must be absolutely horrible
Your one classy mechanic your right in Colorado we have 0 rust it's great things still get stuck locked and torches still get used. I enjoy your video channel I ain't lying
Hey Mr.O. Future reference, try using a large punch and the air hammer on the nut end and a little heat on the control arm on both ends. I worked in a shop and that trick worked for us. Also, you can use a harmonic puller on the nut end if you have room. Both should work and save lots of time.. Good luck. As always thanks for the videos and info.
Salty mechanic work is like plumbing. Man 1 "That looks like a 10 minute job." Man 2 "So when will it be done?" Man 1 "Maybe in 10 minutes. Probably before 10 hours. But really I don't know..."
LOL. You make your bread and butter off of labor, and want people to appreciate how hard you have it? You must be special. Yeah, I work on vehicles too, live in MN where things rust, but don't cry about it.
Yeah then you have nearly all mechs (some good ones) that will charge you for stuff you don't need to do just to make more money. I've done all the work on my car myself.... Just redid my front brakes that a shop tried to quote me 500 bucks for parts and labor... Got my rotor pads and calipers for 60 bucks and took me less than an hour....
My wife nick named you "Ratchet Man" a long time ago when I first started watching your videos. This one takes the air ratchet racket to whole new level..Awesome!
I honestly thought I was struggling on this car until I watched your video then I walked back outside to the warm Atlanta air and I saw a unicorn standing next to the car. I feel for you guys up there in New York with all that rust ! I'm going to go play with unicorns now. Great video. I don't think I've ever watched the video more than 10 minutes long before. But I sat back, relaxed and watch the whole video. Well done ! you're an Ace mechanic. The moment I saw a bolt that looked like that I would have sent that customer straight to the dealership and clocked out for lunch ! Now I feel spoiled and won't hesitate actually gives a job like that to try in the future. Thank you very much
(Con't from SMA) ... then tie a rope around the wheel, use a big ratchet strap on the other side of the car to a BIG tree, and yank the wheel and hub out with your dually diesel. :D I've got mad enough in the past to contemplate trying that one, LOLOL!
No, because as you can tell, not even a heavy duty impact gun could twist the bolt. Not to mention, if it’s seized tight in the bushing and you try to use it as your pivot point to get the axle out, you’ll either destroy the bushing, or it will be so tight in there you wouldn’t even be able to pull the knuckle forward enough to get the axle out.
@@BlackwaterDSM I had the same question as mrexecutive1. I'm trying to get the lower bolt out but it's frozen in the bushing on the forward control arm. I don't want to destroy the bushing, but I'm noticing that with a breaker bar the rubber in the bushing flexes enough to allow the bolt to turn + or - about 45 degrees. If I haven't already damaged the rubber, this seems like enough to get the axle shaft out. The forester is a 2006 with only 35K miles and it's been garaged its entire life but it has been exposed to New England salt. Another thing I don't understand: How can an impact wrench free up the bolt? Wouldn't the rubber in the bushing cushion the impact?
Little unicorns prancing around the rust-free bolts - jeez, I about fell out of my chair! As someone born in Maine and who worked on vehicles in the rust belt, and who later moved to the desert southwest, what you are saying is actually true. To this day, I am still stunned when I go take something apart that is 20-30 or more years old, and (ta-da!!) it simply comes apart!! Its so awesome. A joy to behold. A religious experience. Makes your tummy and heart feel good. Really truly.
I've done this job 4 times. The best way I figured out is this: 1. Break the bolt free from knuckle so the bushings spin. As the video shows, this is usually pretty easy with a breaker bar. Impact guns are less useful since the bushing absorbs a lot of the shock. 2. Cut off both ends of the bolt with a sawzall so they are flush with the bushing. 3. Get a hole saw with an inside diameter a little bigger that the bolt and drill out each bushing. 4. A hammer and punch should get the bolt out relatively easy at this point. The rest of the bushing should also come out without too much fight.
I knew a bruiser who could remove that with his thumb and middle finger! He could lift a top terminal battery by the terminal, same two finger. The only made one of'em
I'm glad I live in a NON-Rust belt or NON-Corrosion belt. We do get a little rust/corrosion on parts, especially in the winter months, provided we get rain like this year, but NOT NEARLY as bad as you do in the rust/corrosion belt area. Obviously you've got LOTS of experience removing rusted/corroded parts like this Subaru had in the suspension area! Nice Job!
some one has had it apart before because I had it all apart in about 15 minutes, here in Pa we are as bad as you with the salt. use a pickle fork between the bolt head and the washer
I don't see why not, it seems like the preferred method really. If the bolt is *that bad* to remove I would leave it in until it's absolutely necessary then just torch/cut it out and replace the bushings then.
I was sweating just watching the carnage. What to people love about these Subaru's? Every one ever made needs a head gasket at 70,000 miles and stuff like this happens frequently as well. Yet, Subie people love them. If the typical Chevy needed as much maintenance as a Subaru there would be a class action lawsuit against GM.
lol, I worked on chevy's and oldmobiles for years and yes they did need that much work, they broke constantly, you just don't remember all the problems they had...
Suby driver here All my vehicles have their oil change done more than required And that is why all still run very well untill they get lent and that is another story
it matter what year and if n/a or turbo...this is coming from a Subaru guy...unfortunately the HG's do go quiet quick but that's mainly to do because of the flat boxer engine design. gravety, bumps and vibrations weighing down on those aluminum heads thats why they usual fail on the top near the water jackets never the bottom ones
I'm in Florida and my 14 year old Sentra looks newer than the majority of vehicles I've seen you work on. These things look like they're 50 years old, the difference is ridiculous. I do most of my own work exactly because everything comes apart fairly easily. If my car looked like this, %100 I'd be taking it to a mechanic!
Personally I hate when they come in as it’s snowing and have you mount snow tires... or some bullshit oil change.... and the cars covered and as soon as you get it on the lift it’s raining on you
I have been an aircraft mechanic for 30+ years and I want to complement you on what a great job you do in narrating your videos. They are done for anyone at any level to understand and done with some personality ....Great Job....Mark
I can see the bill now:
Parts and labor : $500
Penetrating spray: $100
New air compressor: $1500
Better idea... 1 gallon gas $2.97.. 1 match $0.02.. 1 insurance claim...priceless..
@@wolfwolfenstein5537 I wish I got this advice when I bought my first and last Subaru
@@wolfwolfenstein5537 damn, you use high test for a car fire?
@@xxRamD3yruxx was thinking of the prices here at the marina. But then.. nothing but the best for a Subaru
ROFLOL
The first 10 minutes went by, my wife asked what the hell I was watching .... I told her a guy removing a bolt....
Figure I better go find something to do...
LOL....if she can watch HGTV, you can watch this!
Robert Perry 😂😂😂😂😂
When you save a couple thousand working on her broken car ---
she will be able to spend most of the savings somewhere, as
all women do,then you keep watching You Tube Videos
Well... It's not just removing a bolt. But i can imagine the face on her if you said that.
@pc zapp Hmm...buy your own big nasty with the savings, or she spends it on shoes...
Eric, Drew Charles here. I'm just glad to watch this again for the 10th time. I always get a kick out of your work. I am always on pins and needles waiting for you to break out the pickle fork. you do a great job and your narrative is superb. anybody on any level of technical experience could greatly enjoy your work. Thank you.
I know this video is over two years old and I still love it over and over thank you again. I don't even know if you still read comments on two-year-old videos, but thank you anyway. Drew-Charles
I wonder if putting some antiseize lube on that bolt would help. But yeah changing design of bolt probably best
When Big Nasty comes out, you know things are getting serious!
You have a great demeanor and conversationalist style of teaching. I enjoy watching your videos and learn a lot.
I grew up in Northeast Ohio as a kid back in the 1970'/early 1980's before moving to Sunny Florida .My Dad was a Pennsylvania coal miner and was sick very badly with Black lung .He could barely breath .I remember watching my Dad out laying under those old rust bucket cars that we own in the middle of freezing winter out frozen to the bone wrenching on those cars and Bizziching the whole time. .I remember him cursing the engineers out from under the car and Always saying "God what did I do so Bad in life to deserve this crap ?? Ha ha ..We moved to Florida where he passed away 5 years later from the Black lung ..He spent his last 5 years in life wrenching on rust free cars ha ha ..Rest In Peace Dad ...
billjones citrus county florida The man had to do what a man has to do ! R.I.P.
billjones citrus county florida, the majority of that rust could have been avoided, by simply applying a vehicle undercoating........Why they prefer the damage is beyond me.
working at lkq in crystal river. grow up on long island and worked on boats for 20 years. surely dont miss the rust,just the pizza lol
thank you and your dad for keeping this country going...thats why I love old American Cars!.....cause of men like your dad..its sad that people give their money to Honda!
FLorida here too.... so glad I don't live where cars literally dissolve. All my vehicles are 20 years old or older and they work fine, and have very little rust under them.
Those people living in warmer climate don't know how lucky they are.
Great job.
Yes we do !
Everybody wants to move down here to get away from the ice and rust, and don't think about the alligators, hurricanes and unbearable heat. And you should see what living near a FL beach can do to a car in a year. Salt air can blow for blocks all year round. First, the door panels start melting....
@@lucygray6162 I get the cold, wet, and sea salt. I live a couple hundred yards from the sea in the UK. 😬
@@lucygray6162 I'll keep my salt and cold to avoid the heat and no break from insects and vermin.
At least I know what Im Getting here in Ohio by season.
Spring, ants and chipmunks. Summer ground hornets and chipmunks lol. Fall wolf spiders come in to say high.... winter. Damn field mice move in some years one or two all year then like this past year. It was Mice-athon 5000 lol
Cost of being in an older home 🤷🏼♂️
Still better than heat 👉🥵
@@NobodyUR You are right, still better than the heat.
"If I can do it, you can do it" Yeah sure!!!! (Looking down at my harbour freight socket set) LOL
Great vid Eric!!!
I don't think my 20 year old Craftsman set is up to that task either... I know my hands and arms aren't!
🤣👍
@@tyree9055 LMAOOOOOO xD
You've already got the sacrificial set. All you need is the good ones.
Eric O. next time take the inner bolts off the lateral link arms at the sub-frame. Once the bolts are out pull down on the arms. They will rotate on the bushings and you'll never need to deal with that big bolt again. Ten years of working on Subies at dealers in Massachusetts and New Hampshire has taught me you can't buy experience but it sure is expensive when it comes to rusty bolt removal. Hope this saves you some time and heartache in the future.
RIP South Main Auto 80 gallon air compressor
I had that big rear bolt seize on me too, we just grinder in off at the bushing cut it.
I've never seen a video so frustrating, yet so satisfying....
This was the very first video I watched. 4 years later still watching. You Sir are a Prime example of the American people and Her spirit. May God bless you and your family
yes this mans spirit was embiggened by invisible lines. BOOMER ALERT
Watched this on my phone 2 days ago while waiting to go in for my back surgery. It was calming to watch Eric battling some rust to take my mind off the matter.
Welcome to the South Main Auto Church of Latter Day Auto Mechanics. I am Pastor Eric O. Let us Spray.
Better known as panther piss!!!
A reading from the book of BFH, wailing just a bit too hard
Most underrated comment ever.
Spectacular comment and as Tyler said, "Underrated". I remember the hill side events in Elmira when I was a child.
Amen 🙏
The bastard bolt as we call it! Bloody farmers here in Scotland love their Subaru and like driving in shit and salted roads. Pays to have a spare hub and arms to swap out the whole lot and overhaul the unit on the bench for next car. Just drop the lot,hub,arms etc and bolt on a spare unit. Makes for a faster turnaround and shitty one can be refurbed in time between jobs.
Andrew Wilson Well that's a different approach if you get a lot of Subaru's. I like it.
Andrew Wilson That sounds like common sense !
wysetech2000 I don't know if it's the climate,the way they are driven,where they are driven or just the car is hard on consumables but they knock out bearings and brakes quite readily. I also replace a lot of bushes on them. It is the preferred option to drive one around here. As capable as a four by four but a faster and nicer drive.
Tom OConnor o
Thanks so much for your great videos, you can't imagine how much time and effort you save all of us that are doing this at home. I'm in my 70's, and have always done all of the work on my own vehicles - most everyone I know hates to work on vehicles, but I've always looked at it as occupational therapy - nothing makes me feel as good as when I fix the problem and take the vehicle out for a "test drive". And I always take the opportunity to buy new tools to make my life easier! I live in southwestern Colorado, and have never really appreciated the LACK of rust we have here - now, every time I manage to loosen a stuck bolt, I'll be seeing the Unicorns dancing around! Thanks again for putting a smile on my face!
Eric, I'll tell you what, It's amazing being able to work on a car without needing to be concerned about rust and corrosion as you appear to be, It's made me very grateful for my experiences with dismantling suspension components and having minimal issues with them, and your channel has opened my perspective up to the fact that it can be a whole lot harder than I've experienced in the past.
Keep making them awesome RUclips videos, really enjoying watching them!!!
Man what a chore. I have to do this on my forester. Now im wondering if i should just pay to give somebody else the headache.
Down south, everything takes two and a half minutes to do, Scotty Kilmer style!
ya you dont have to use your brain as much
Give it the old "uh"
Scotty is nothing but a Hack
I'm in Colorado and its a privilege working on rust-free cars that are 20 years okd
Thanks for this video. It helped take the assembly apart for originally a CV boot replacement job. I have a 98 Forester with only 75k but the rubber parts are rotting out. One of the long bolts came out with the back and forth method using the impact wrench you demonstrated. The other was hopelessly frozen on the forward bushing. On that I cut the bolt head, used a small three arm puller to press it out of the trailing arm bushing, slid the knuckle off with a 5lb persuader, then used the three arm puller to press out the bushing and remaining bolt from the front control arm. It was one of the tougher car jobs I've done for sure. The other side that the bolt came free had the axle stuck to the hub. I pounded, pulled and heated that to oblivion so its getting new half axle, hub, seals and bearing just in case things got warped and/or melted. I don't want to pick this fight with it again so I plan on taking that bolt out at the beginning of every winter when I put my snow tires on and slopping some anti seize on it. Its easy enough to get to with the impact.
People who don't like their bill should watch this video to see how much work and specialized tools are needed to do accomplish a job like this. Factor in how much more difficult it would be on a poorly lit garage floor with poor lighting and the wrong tools, and you get a feel for what life is like on the other side of the wrench. On the plus side, you've sold me on a Big Nasty, I've always wanted an air hammer that was worth using.
Here from Good OLD Northern California. Not sure why i watch your rusty videos when I rarely ever come across your problems, but it sure is something good to watching.
Eric, you wonder what it would be like to live in a place without rust. Well, I have a good friend named Max who lives here in Phoenix now and is a Master Technician for Lexus. His home was Montreal, Canada. When I talk with Max about the difference between Phoenix and Montreal he has a simple analogy. Heaven vs. Hell. I asked him if he was ever moving back home and he nearly hit me with the sander we were using to prep his car for paint. I took his response to my question as a solid NO!
I am a DIY'er and live up on Canada where rust is a serious problem. I will sit through an hour of Eric pounding away at a part just to see if staying at it will work. I did a complete rebuild of the front end of my daughters car and wimped out on the lower control arms and let a 'real' mechanic do it because I could not get the bolts off. After watching this video I realize I should have just kept going. This is the best channel on RUclips because I will watch Eric O grind away at a bolt for 50 minutes!
I saw the thumbnail, and the length of this video in my homepage and thought.... this is going to be amazing. I was not disappointed.
Been a while since you made this video. My nissan x-trail was the same setup. Left rear failed the safety. 5 hours of scrapping with it. I won. No new bolt to be had in my small town.
I saved the bolt, it wasnt as bad as this one.
So since i replaced last one i have been soaking other side heavily whenever i get it into shop. One guy on big nasty, other one with impact spinning bolt.
Fix junk and put it on the internet. Thats what you do!
I just like to watch some one else deal with the same crap i also do on a daily basis.
I have no problem with hard work, i can watch it all day!
Wow, now I know what my mechanic went through replacing my Outback's RR wheel bearing! Definitely glad I didn't attempt that repair. Living in the rust belt has its challenges.
Thank you for this! I am not a mechanic and have barely turned wrenches in my life. I live in Albany,NY and my 04 Forester XT needed a new brake backing plate.
I went and dusted off my grandfather's Mac and Snap on stuff and pulled what looks like a .401 1980s Mac Impact hammer. Using this and my little Makita compressor and your techniques I was able to pop this horrible bolt out without roasting the bushings in about an hour or so! I referred to this video many times and cannot say thank you enough for taking your own personal free time to record and edit these videos! This really did help me tremendously and I learned alot. TYSM man!
Hey Eric. here's a thing to try next time. Assuming you have an arc welder. Put the ground clamp on the head of that rusty bolt. Set the amperage way low. Use any big fat electrode. Dead short on the nut end. Hold it until the bolt is red hot. Then start the beating. We love heat.
R Knit brilliant!!! I'm gonna follow your advice.
Good idea
Clever, but you risk melting the rubber bushings, adding at least an 1 hour to the job and more $ in parts to the customer.
Elias Bargee That is true. You are likely to melt the rubber bushings. You can replace them in the car, and you are likely to destroy them anyway. You would have to compare the cost of the bushings to the time and frustration etc.
the bolt is heated up pretty good already... i like to shoot it with a CO2 extinguisher to shrink the bolt after heated, it usually pops right out after that
Eric, former tech here from Michigan if you have not tried it before, put a stand under the knuckle and lift it a couple of inches. I have had SOME luck and get a few out no problem time to time, when the lower arms stop pulling on the bolt. At full droop the arms are pulling in and the strut is pushing out, it helps bind the bolt I think. With lifting it every now and then I get lucky and one zips right out.
RRRRRRUUSSSTTT! I hate rust. Used to be a mechanic years ago. Now I only do jobs like this for my own personal amusement. And yes, I know what hardcore rust is I live in New Jersey! You kicked ass and took names. Great job Eric!
Oh man, nothing beats NY and NY Rust!
i mean NJ haha
South Main Auto Repair Except QC rust
The amount of salt that gets dumped on the roads in the NE US just defies belief. Here in Western Canada there's not nearly as much, partly because it gets cold enough that salt doesn't work anymore, and partly because people don't expect that their roads will be snow-free all winter.
After my wife and I left your shop last fall, we took a drive through the finger lake area and then headed up through a national forest to Lake Champlain. Upstate NY has some beautiful scenery. We even talked about moving up for a couple of years so we could see more of NY and the New England area. (We're retired now). Then I watch a video like this and I only have to imagine myself lying on my back under my vehicles dealing with crust and I am brought back to my senses. We don't need salt down here in Texas, we just stay home for a day and wait for the the ice to melt. :)
being a technician here in Florida we see a lot rust because it seems like 80% of New Yorkers when they retire move to Florida and bring their Rusty Vehicles here so most the time it's not too bad but we still get the New York rust lol
You guys are a peninsula. Those by the ocean are susceptible to rust just by letting the car sit and getting rained on. Granted the cars I've seen from Florida have mild surface rust but still. It's nothing like Nevada
We get a lot of rusty Subaru’s in Whistler, BC. I find torching the long bolt in half in the middle of the knuckle and air hammering each 1/2 out from the middle.
We stock the bolts and bushes for this reason.
If you don’t have a bolt, mark the inbound control arm alignment bolts and disconnect the arms inbound.
We also use the hydraulic OTC hub grappler which is sweet.
Hey thanks for this vid. I have this car, 2007 WRX and bearing is getting noisy. I'm up here in NH. I've been a Ford truck mechanic for past 25 yrs. And I 'll have to tackle this in my driveway :(( We'll see how it goes. TY again for this informative video!!!!
My originally owned, daily driven through mountains of Michigan snow, 04 WRX wagon needed rear brakes in 2016. No prob, had done it before. This time I managed to ding the ABS tone wheel. Uh oh. The shop I took it to ended up cutting a wishbone to get it apart. I have been a professional race mechanic for 30 years and agreed that was the only way to move forward. The bolt had swelled from rust and was no longer a bolt. Rust is when I pay a shop to work on my car. Totally appreciate your effort and video. My 17 yr old WRX with 300hp has been the love of my car life, and to watch it rust away to a piece of junk is killing me
I see your struggle brother. That was a great visual when the rust started breaking apart. I lived in Southern California when I was a mechanic and I didn't know how good I had it. Now that I'm in TN, I'm back in the semi-rust belt. Not as bad as you boys but not as nice as California either. Great video!
Even after a year, I like to come back to this video just to see Eric O. busting ass on scrap metal. Man Eric , you know the" In's and Out's" with a rust battle. Please continue on ........
When I lifted my SUS and had to tear the entire rear suspension apart, made sure to just go ahead and order all new mounting hardware and bushings because knew I was going to have to shred everything.
Thanks for all the years of these videos Eric. Have one of these to do next week and was looking for someone who has already done it. Pleasantly surprised to find your videos up top when I went looking.
I'm in Florida, there's no unicorns! I have experienced the same crap that you deal with growing up in the great white North. I was under my 11 year old F 150 the other day and it still has original part sticker's on most of the components and NO rust!
In this video South Main Auto Repair demonstrates the the reasoning for the “Shop Supply” charges.....10% goes toward stocking penetrating oil, 10% toward the new air compressor fund, 10% to replacing damaged tooling, 20% for miscellaneous (shop towels, toilet paper and hand degreaser) and 50% of the Shop Supply charges goes to the swear jar fund.....
I remember Ohio had the inspections that your car had to pass to be able to get your license plates .Our cars were rotted out shells of what used to be cars ha ha .My Dad had to rig those cars every year to get them to pass ..We were poor and didn't have a Pot to piss in so buying a good car was out of the question for us ..I remember one time the car went in for inspection and they found a leaky brake line and failed the car .My Dad was like Shizzit what am I going to do ? I can't afford to buy steel brake line to redo this car .He went to the hardware and bought like 20 ft of copper line and took his flaring tool and a hacksaw and made new brake line out of that .he painted the copper line black with spray paint and climbed under the car and put it in then drove back to the inspection place and passed ...My Dad said if the inspector knew that the brake lines were copper line they would have failed this car on the spot ha ha but it worked and we drove that car many years ...We had a 1972 Pontiac Bonneville that was rotted out badly ..We got pulled over and the Ohio state trooper did a roadside inspection and failed dad's car because the emergency brake didn't work .The trooper told dad to get that fixed and get it signed off that it was fixed and pay the fine ...My Dad climbed under the car and the cable was broken and the brackets where the cable ran were rusted out .My dad was like how the hell an I supposed to fix this ??? He said I've got to do something to pass .This is the only car we got ...He got his welder out and took a steel bar and climed up under the dash and welded the bar onto the emergency brake peddle arm up under the dash where it couldn't be seen .The bar ran acrossed over to the regular brake peddle and when you pushed the E- Brake peddle down that bar pressed the brake peddle down and held the car in place .Dad took a toggle switch and cut the brake light switch wire and made it where when he was told to hit the E-Brake the brake lights wouldn't come on and cause him to fail ...We went into the inspection and the trooper told dad to hit his regular brake and put the car in gear and give it a little gas to make sure the brakes worked and the trooper stood behind the car ..then the trooper told dad to apply the emergency brake and do the same test .Well dad hit the switch so that the brake lights wouldn't come on then he pressed the E-Brake peddle down which also pushed the regular brake peddle down and the car passed ha ha .My dad went in paid the fine and we were on our way down the road ....I remember my dad saying on the drive home " I pray for the day that I don't have to drive this junk and can get a good car that I don't have to rig .ha ha ..Old memories I'll never forget from my childhood
Thanks, I love to hear others tell of the "good old times", occasionally I get to tell a story and today's "kids" have absolutely no idea what it was like in the 50's, and 60's. My dad had a "gas" station so "fxin' " stuff was a daily thing for our customers. A guy that worked for my dad would test spark plugs by holding the plug wire and he would jump a bit every time that plug would fire; he could tell a bad plug/wire by how hard he jumped. No snappy scanner for him; fuel trims? naw, just smell the exhaust pipe.
Thanks for the memories, yours and my dad's
Bob L
Man that's some wonderful memories. I relate to rigging chit to get by inspections. I live in western pa, and rusted up junk was all i owned years back. I lay on the ground in the winters many times fixing chit. People not from around here have no idea what we go through. Right now my 02 subie has a bad ball joint driver side. 152000 original joint in it. It's nasty out right now, and i got to crawl, and fix it tomorrow. Be laying in the snow. It's softer than my gravel thats underneath. lol
billjones citrus county florida I just had to get my car inspected in Missouri. What a joke. Failed me for an inner tie rod. When I climbed under my car to get the boot off I about impaled my temple on a bolt meant to hold the sub-frame on that was sticking out 2 inches. Brought it back and asked if they even looked at my car.
Copper is way pricier than brake line. Not stopping because of using copper is WAYYYYY more expensive. But hey, live another day right?
@@whozaskin3639 Some of us aren't as obiviously young as you. Forty-Five years ago copper wasn't as expensive as steel brake line. I replaced more than one copper brake line hack job on my multiple 70's VW Rabbits that I bought to drive and cars I repaired for friends when I was in School.
Best car repair videos. Eric has a sense of humor along with
mechanical ability and knowledge. Born teacher.
Did one of these a week or three ago, driveshaft was stuck in the bearing/hub flange. Whole assembly sat in the press overnight in a bath of wd40 still stuck in the morning. By midday I had enough, took cover behind the press post and maxxed out pressure until something was about to break. Shaft cracked loose with an almighty bang and a shower of wd. This is Australia with no rust belt issues......
HAHAH SWEET!
Try a air hammer with a pointed bit in the center on the axle and it’ll push it out the hub
Bloody aussies
And yea rust is small except if ya live on a beach
Use to pour sump oil all over my FC and then peeps would lean against it LOL
Thank you Eric! My son has the same Subaru Impreza Outback Wagon (probably same year by the looks). And I have to replace the rear driver side wheel bearing. Exactly what you showed. Yours was a really good explanation, and entertaining. Now I have some hope. We just recently put a new clutch on the thing. After all the work that took, I can't let this car die! It has 188,000 miles. We live in PA, so rust is a big problem. I told my son to start saving for another car. That you again, I subscribed to your channel!
Awesome video! I learned a lot of tips and tricks from the Master. Don't let the head swell too much : ) Hope you enjoyed your lunch. No updates needed about the aftermath. Lol
Good job. Never did I think that bolt would be that rusty. I've done many a wheel bearing, but not on a Subaru. That's a ball buster of a job.
amen to living in new york. i just did bearings in a 07 MB ml350 and had to drill out the abs sensors. broke each one. and each was $135
do i have to worry about this if i live in California
@@cameltoeinspector6015 No. Snow and salt = rust. No snow and salt in most of California, a tiny bit if you live in the mountains, nothing like NY and the Northeast experience.
@@thevoyager63 i live in NY but i went to Tahoe many times and they get far more snow out there than anywhere on the east coast but it appears they are much more environmentally considerate and so they dont put down any salt on the roads... They just plow and spread dirt or sand over the roads and then i saw they go right back out and sweep it all up after it melts back down too...
No wonder you are a calm individual. You get all your frustrations out on Subarus. Thanks for the tips.
Packed with goodies. The "classic spin around," the never seize "tin man" effect, and then "prancing unicorns!" Great stuff Mr.O. Thanks!!
Haha you know dang well there must be unicorns down there prancing around
I love watching "some guy removing a bolt." It is hard to explain just how entertaining Eric O. is. But really, this is the most fun, relaxing, enjoyable video I watch.
It is certainly quite handy if you can foresee yourself as being that guy at some point! I would imagine most of us watching videos like this fall into that category.
Great Job, I'm a retires ASE Master Mechanic. Would have been a pleasure to work with you..
2003 Subaru Forester. The right rear wheel bearing needs replaced every 60k miles like clockwork since new. This is a common known (design?) issue. I also remember my mechanic mentioning (cursing) that same long bolt, lol. Another great video. Thanks!
Great videos all the time from you I have a 99 Subaru Impreza Outback with drum brakes in the back and I need to change out a wheel bearing but I want to do it on the car like you did which press tool would you recommend for the easiest in and out of the bearing thank you
That's a long one and I spent the first half confused, finally I began to see the light. Great Job Your customers are lucky to have you.
Eric, I know nothing is gonna hold up against the red monster in your area forever, but have you ever tried the copper based never seize, the gold stuff? I switched years ago and it stays on and works a lot better in my experience. Someone told me or I read somewhere that the silver zinc based stuff was originally made for marine applications and works best with stainless steel, and the copper stuff was intended for "iron" or carbon steel
I work on boats as well that go in salt water. Have silver and copper anti-sieze for the cars. Copper really works well with high heat areas. Never use copper or silver in marine on aluminum blocks or lower units. The metals react in salt water and you get galvanic corosion. I have special marine anti-sieze that cantains no metals. It is moly based and seems to hold up the best. You can also use water proof marine grease called 2-4-C on some applications like prop shafts. Having a car in NY is about the same as driving it in salt water! Keep up the great videos Eric.
The other advantage of copper antiseize is that when it gets all over you it looks like you've got a healthy tan rather that as Eric said: "looking like the tin man."
To your commit about working up in the northeast compared to being in the south. I lived over fifty years just north of you (Utica) and pulled wrenches a long time, still doing it for myself on my '07 Sport trac and when you get under it I have to laugh that I can still see the tags from when it was made. It is a big difference. So, from Myrtle Beach, SC, I want to let you know how much I enjoy your videos.
I have PTSD from watching this video. I've worked on too many stuck Subaru bolts.
It's a poor design really, I' m wondering if stainless steel bolts would have been a better option, would have made removal easier perhaps.
@@rinunculartoo3006 It would really depend on the stainless, and steel mating. You can still get galvanic corrosion whic is what causes the materials to mate:
www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89
Copper antisieze is good stuff, and maybe fastners should be coated with copper since it doesn't rust to steel as readily.
its not so much the bolts, its the bushings. They kinda rust and glue themselves in place and the impact gun hits are just kinda absorbed by the rubber. They don't actually get a lot of movement though their arc of travel.
@@rickw4160 yeah seems like a specalised screw clamp would go a long way, on both bushings. Something like the three-fingered clamps they have in chemistry sets.
Or you know, like, a million tiny hits from a numatic hammer whatev.
The other option is to torch em and burn it.
Aside from the primo skills, you manage to make this slog very entertaining.
Hy dude! Really nice video! You helped me a lot....with your video, I decided doing this job on my 2007 Subaru Forester 2.5 XT myself:-). Thanks a lot from Switzerland, Markus. PS: I like your comments:-)
I had a rear spring break on a 2000 Silverado and we literally had to melt the bushings in order to get the bolts out ! May have been a better way to take the bolts out but I couldn’t think of one ! Doing that I feel your pain Eric.
Sorry That you have to work with all that rust I live in Texas and work in San Antonio area where we really don’t see anything like that it must be absolutely horrible
Your one classy mechanic your right in Colorado we have 0 rust it's great things still get stuck locked and torches still get used. I enjoy your video channel I ain't lying
Hey Mr.O. Future reference, try using a large punch and the air hammer on the nut end and a little heat on the control arm on both ends. I worked in a shop and that trick worked for us. Also, you can use a harmonic puller on the nut end if you have room. Both should work and save lots of time.. Good luck. As always thanks for the videos and info.
Is it weird that this is my second time watching this! Just love watching the rust being mushed up with the oil etc!!!
People do not appreciate mechanics enough, and how hard we work to do a so called "simple job".
Salty mechanic work is like plumbing. Man 1 "That looks like a 10 minute job." Man 2 "So when will it be done?" Man 1 "Maybe in 10 minutes. Probably before 10 hours. But really I don't know..."
LOL. You make your bread and butter off of labor, and want people to appreciate how hard you have it? You must be special. Yeah, I work on vehicles too, live in MN where things rust, but don't cry about it.
Even worse out in the country where you don't have air compressors and hydraulic lifts.
Yeah then you have nearly all mechs (some good ones) that will charge you for stuff you don't need to do just to make more money. I've done all the work on my car myself.... Just redid my front brakes that a shop tried to quote me 500 bucks for parts and labor... Got my rotor pads and calipers for 60 bucks and took me less than an hour....
We are not mechanics we are technicians, why cuz electritan, Plummer, HVAC, dump customer interpretors thru idiot writers so underpaid lol
My wife nick named you "Ratchet Man" a long time ago when I first started watching your videos. This one takes the air ratchet racket to whole new level..Awesome!
I can't stop laughing when you said "get me the same thing I get every time I go to McDonald's"!
I live in NC Eric. So it is easier for me. You have a tough job dealing with rust,salt and slag. You do a good job!
Wow I'm exhausted Eric . And some think an automotive technician is looking at waveforms hahaha that was real right there. LOL
I honestly thought I was struggling on this car until I watched your video then I walked back outside to the warm Atlanta air and I saw a unicorn standing next to the car. I feel for you guys up there in New York with all that rust ! I'm going to go play with unicorns now. Great video. I don't think I've ever watched the video more than 10 minutes long before. But I sat back, relaxed and watch the whole video. Well done ! you're an Ace mechanic. The moment I saw a bolt that looked like that I would have sent that customer straight to the dealership and clocked out for lunch ! Now I feel spoiled and won't hesitate actually gives a job like that to try in the future. Thank you very much
Imagining someone trying this in a driveway with a Harbor Freight socket set!
just bolt the tire back on and go get some beer....
Then grab the oxy-acetylene and go to work!
(Con't from SMA) ... then tie a rope around the wheel, use a big ratchet strap on the other side of the car to a BIG tree, and yank the wheel and hub out with your dually diesel. :D
I've got mad enough in the past to contemplate trying that one, LOLOL!
doing that this weekend, so whaddaya tryin to say? ... lol
i'm doing this saturday, what do you mean press in bearing the one i ordered is a bolt on, 2010 impreza.take 4 bolts out from rear and axle nut off.
Hi, Eric. Another old video in the book. And another good lesson on how to do work on rusty crusty hardware. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
Would it be possible to just remove the Strut Bolts to knuckle, bypassing the lower bolt to take the axle out?
No, because as you can tell, not even a heavy duty impact gun could twist the bolt. Not to mention, if it’s seized tight in the bushing and you try to use it as your pivot point to get the axle out, you’ll either destroy the bushing, or it will be so tight in there you wouldn’t even be able to pull the knuckle forward enough to get the axle out.
@@BlackwaterDSM I had the same question as mrexecutive1. I'm trying to get the lower bolt out but it's frozen in the bushing on the forward control arm. I don't want to destroy the bushing, but I'm noticing that with a breaker bar the rubber in the bushing flexes enough to allow the bolt to turn + or - about 45 degrees. If I haven't already damaged the rubber, this seems like enough to get the axle shaft out. The forester is a 2006 with only 35K miles and it's been garaged its entire life but it has been exposed to New England salt.
Another thing I don't understand: How can an impact wrench free up the bolt? Wouldn't the rubber in the bushing cushion the impact?
You guys must have your own flat rate Manuel for northern states. Nothing is easy
poetry in motion or a haiku made up of 4 letter words. Either way nice work
Little unicorns prancing around the rust-free bolts - jeez, I about fell out of my chair! As someone born in Maine and who worked on vehicles in the rust belt, and who later moved to the desert southwest, what you are saying is actually true. To this day, I am still stunned when I go take something apart that is 20-30 or more years old, and (ta-da!!) it simply
comes apart!! Its so awesome. A joy to behold. A religious experience. Makes your tummy and heart feel good. Really truly.
eric o if you did that job in florida that 10 inch bolt would have fell out on its own he he
I've done this job 4 times. The best way I figured out is this:
1. Break the bolt free from knuckle so the bushings spin. As the video shows, this is usually pretty easy with a breaker bar. Impact guns are less useful since the bushing absorbs a lot of the shock.
2. Cut off both ends of the bolt with a sawzall so they are flush with the bushing.
3. Get a hole saw with an inside diameter a little bigger that the bolt and drill out each bushing.
4. A hammer and punch should get the bolt out relatively easy at this point. The rest of the bushing should also come out without too much fight.
"if I was down in Florida I could do this with a crescent wrench"
I live in ArridZona. You can only imagine how easy this stuff is here. Unless you live in Flagstaff. Then you may as well tell me you live in Denver.
I live in N Wisconsin. My ranger is a 93. My life is a rusty hell
I am in FLA, the snow birds bring this with them
I knew a bruiser who could remove that with his thumb and middle finger! He could lift a top terminal battery by the terminal, same two finger. The only made one of'em
Adjustable wrench. Crescent makes wrenches as well now. It doesn't mean what it used to.
I'm glad I live in a NON-Rust belt or NON-Corrosion belt. We do get a little rust/corrosion on parts, especially in the winter months, provided we get rain like this year, but NOT NEARLY as bad as you do in the rust/corrosion belt area. Obviously you've got LOTS of experience removing rusted/corroded parts like this Subaru had in the suspension area! Nice Job!
Watched 30 minutes of bolt extractions. I don't even own a Subaru. WTF?
I own two and now I am afraid...
Good god. Watching this makes me happy I live in Denver. No rust on anything. 20 year old steel is still pristine.
No Sir!!! I am a shop owner in the Northeast region and I've seen my fair share of some nasty crap! However, that would ABSOLUTELY ruin my day!!!!!
Great video Mr. O!
The look of Zen on your face when you were hammering on her was priceless.
I have one to do tomorrow wish me luck
some one has had it apart before because I had it all apart in about 15 minutes, here in Pa we are as bad as you with the salt. use a pickle fork between the bolt head and the washer
Idk why but this might be my favorite SMA video
why couldn't you just undo the strut from the knuckle to remove the axle?
I don't see why not, it seems like the preferred method really. If the bolt is *that bad* to remove I would leave it in until it's absolutely necessary then just torch/cut it out and replace the bushings then.
Rumen Hristov. That would be nice but unfortunately you can't angle the knuckle away far enough to remove the axle. I've tried.
How do you not have more views this is this best channel as far as helpful entertainment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was sweating just watching the carnage. What to people love about these Subaru's? Every one ever made needs a head gasket at 70,000 miles and stuff like this happens frequently as well. Yet, Subie people love them. If the typical Chevy needed as much maintenance as a Subaru there would be a class action lawsuit against GM.
SATAMAN Schmidt best car i ever owned is my sube. wheel bearing only issue
lol, I worked on chevy's and oldmobiles for years and yes they did need that much work, they broke constantly, you just don't remember all the problems they had...
250,000 miles no head gasket yet
Suby driver here
All my vehicles have their oil change done more than required
And that is why all still run very well untill they get lent and that is another story
it matter what year and if n/a or turbo...this is coming from a Subaru guy...unfortunately the HG's do go quiet quick but that's mainly to do because of the flat boxer engine design. gravety, bumps and vibrations weighing down on those aluminum heads thats why they usual fail on the top near the water jackets never the bottom ones
I'm in Florida and my 14 year old Sentra looks newer than the majority of vehicles I've seen you work on. These things look like they're 50 years old, the difference is ridiculous. I do most of my own work exactly because everything comes apart fairly easily. If my car looked like this, %100 I'd be taking it to a mechanic!
Nothing like the smell of burning penetrating oil in the morning. :)
And lightly toasted,control arm bushings.
Big Nasty never ceases to amaze. Ever think of changing the name to The Negotiator or The Gentle Persuader?
We like carnage and rust - mostly because we're watching it, rather than actually doing it. :-P
I live in MN where we love our road salt and you gave me the necessary info to get the job done on my '08 Forester.
It's gotta' suck being a tech in New England......lol
It does.
Personally I hate when they come in as it’s snowing and have you mount snow tires... or some bullshit oil change.... and the cars covered and as soon as you get it on the lift it’s raining on you
youre the most patient rusty bolt worker in the world