Subaru Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 апр 2017
- General overview of replacing a front wheel bearing on a 1998 Subaru Outback. Torque specs in video are for a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback.
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Tools:
Milwaukee Fuel 3/8" Ratchet Kit - amzn.to/2FGHcCe
GearWrench 3/8" Torque Wrench - amzn.to/2VUaaV4
GearWrench 1/4" Metric Socket Set - amzn.to/2STajGm
GearWrench 3/8" Metric Socket Set - amzn.to/2SXp3E9
GearWrench 3/8" Metric Impact Set - amzn.to/2SYnSUW
Milwaukee Fuel M18 Kit - amzn.to/2Sj38Kr
Shop Press - amzn.to/2Gg1suS
Parts:
OE Subaru wheel bearing kit - amzn.to/2WAb8WT
----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- 
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HD camera, no jabbering, good editing, important data overlays, this should be the gold standard of how to videos
It could 📖be considered creepy in a society that talks ALL THE TIME! Keep up the good work creepy dude⁉️
we are lucky as hell to own vehicles that he works on in these videos! I had an 02 LL Bean, and now an 01 VDC. MrSubaru saves the day every single time!! I can do things myself, save money & use it to buy higher quality OEM parts, take my time and give the car that sweet TLC, and feel a great sense of accomplishment. A lot of car repair shops today just charge $1000 for things that wouldn't have been half of that 10yrs ago.
This is my home mechanic tip: when tapping or pressing in bearings, an arbor of almost exactly the right diameter is usually required. I normally cut across the edge of one of the old races with an angle grinder and use that. it is, obviously, exactly the right size, and the cut gives it enough spring to easily be pulled back out of the housing after the bearing is installed.
And thanks again for this instructional video. It shows every detail one needs to know. No excess chatter. I am doing this now on a similar age Forester
That was an excellent step by step process. Really appreciate no talking!
Thank you for saying NOTHING and without being accompanied by stupid music! I found what I came here for. Excellent Video Tutorial!
Great vid. Was thinking of replacing the front bearings myself. Now know it’s beyond my skill level and the equipment I have.
I also liked the presentation format. 👍👍
Amazing video! The mechanical know-how, the lighting, the editing, the concise and accurate commentary . . . I could go on and on. Sharing your skills in this way truly helps an immense number of people. Thank you!
Thank you very much.
I really like your attention to detail , because the little things that most videos forget to mention can make the difference between a smooth job and a night mare, thanks for the time and effort you put into this, keep up the great work
Jesus wept! I did both front bearings on my V8 Ford Falcon 2001 model, with a 32mm socket in around 45 mins. I thought I will do my wifes gen 3 Liberty, but I will check YT first to see whats what. I will be leaving this one to a mechanic and save myself the grief. Great video and thanks for showing all angles.
Tackling front wheel bearings, ball joints, and CVs on my 2000 GT-B this weekend. Thank you very much for the excellent guide.
You are an incredible technician! The knowledge you have of these vehicles is amazing! Keep it up.
+BCal thank you. 👍
You are the only one I could find (I watched 5 different vids) that gave the torque specs!! Thanks .
You're welcome. Glad to help. 👍
you make the best videos! no talky just worky. Thank you, and keep up the good work.
You're welcome. Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 Where would I get a reliable hub. My bearing fell apart and trashed an aftermarket I had and it's just garbage.
OE is always the best bet.
Thanks for putting this up mate, super detailed and like that you didn’t wash over any details.
Thanks👌
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thanks for the video - exact Subaru I'm working on now. Looks like it's going to be a bit of a bear without a press but I feel a lot more confident going into the project!
Glad to help. 👍
Thanks for the great video! It was super helpful in getting my job done quickly and successfully.
I just finished replacing the front wheel bearings in my 98 legacy outback. Your video was a huge help! Thanks for sharing all your tips, and posting the torque specs too! Keep up the great work!
You're welcome. 👍🏻 Glad to help.
Thank you for the video you do very good clean work and pay attention to detail. You take pride in what you do.
Thank you for your Video! It helped me a lot to fix my 97 Legacy
Thanks again Mr. Subaru. Ordered my Subaru Crosstrek for 2024. Can't wait to receive it.
Very informative video. Thank you. Made changing the bearing very easy.
Right on, you had me from the git go when u where working in a gravel driveway much like me, then I noticed we had the same dive watch, and u spear fish, getting ready to do this job on my kids 2003 WRX that I used to own.....Excellent tutorial earned u a sub!
+Deepblu dude awesome. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍
You are a man of few words (which I like). The captions do an excellent job of describing what's going on. Looks like you'll need a new CV boot soon tho.
+Daemon Can already replaced the axles all the way around on this one.
those snapon c clip pliers were my first ever, and my last. absolutely love them
What model are those pliers? My Channellocks are too wimpy for rusted c clips.
I like how you show this can be done easily without an extra set of hands. That's most jobs for me these days because all my ole car buddies are busy with work and family, same for myself. This video gives me some hope 😁.
Thank you for your time and help.
class video, Either the good mechanics dont know how to put a good video together or you get the butchers that do know how to use a computer and can't fix a car, but you clearly know what youre doing. very satisfying to watch. Earned a sub from me. Gonna do my front bearing on my B4 legacy this weekend. wish me luck haha.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
I like the fact that you do good work
That hi lift jack.....
Tasty.
Stay gold.
Muchas gracias amigo por su ayuda, fantástico un trabajo de excelencia, los felicito, muy completo por los torque. Saludos
I'm so glad we don't have to deal with salted roads here in Australia.
So am I and it must kill all the fish and half the trees
The only thing road salt kills is the cars here. The environment is not affected noticeably.
Sorry about all the fires down there hope you are safe.....
Fin DD Hire in Wisconsin we do Amigo.
I think its looking great, like you said, once the stickers are on and complete, I think it will look awesome. 🤘🤘👍👍
Brilliant vid, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
+TheWorldofTrains glad you enjoyed.
really one of the best videos on youtube, perhaps you need to make a new video (how to rebuild your caliper with new pistons). best regards from Miami.
Would love to see that
This video saved my ass today, thanks buddy!
Glad I could help. 👍
My steering wheel had been wobbling at when i hit 60 mph and finally took it to a shop that said i need new wheel bearings badly, after watching this video i think i made the right choice leaving it at the shop. Ill be out around $480 though
Great video. Thanks
+Michal Domanski glad to help.
Great job! thanks a lot for sharing... keep teach me more please. 😀
Fantastic, helpful video - well done! Thanks.
That angle headed ratcheting torque wrench is the envy of the interwebs right now
My favorite part was seeing all of your beautiful Snap-on tools. 😁
made me wish I had the money to afford all them..... geesh all I saw was perfection
The front rotor had some lines of grinds on it. I would replace that as well but great video and detail bro :)
the customer probably asked to save some money after hearing how much new Subaru hubs are lol i noticed that too after also seeing reused outer tie rods but new ball joints
Thank you for this video. Clear, to the point, and easy to follow. Pulling the knuckles from the ball joint is a great method. Its way easier than popping the ball join from the control arm, and saves the joints if they are still good. If you have a heat gun and or torch you can get the knuckles just hot enough they are hard to touch and freeze the bearings for at least a few hours. Once the knuckles are hot take the bearings out of the freezer and the bearings should slide right in.
Good work💖
Good vid on the job. Only thing I would have done differently is replace the outer cv boot since you were right there. But, to each his own. Good Job!!
I replaced the axle in a separate video.
Was a real life saver
Good camera work
Thank you.
Thanks for the video
great video! but i think ill take this job to my local subaru shop and wait for an easier project to come along. God bless
I was thinking the same thing
Really nice video
Thank you. 👍
no non-sense shit step by step video, the best on youtube so far.
Thanks love it
+Douglas Green you're welcome.
Does snap-on sponsor you lol. Nah but seriously loved the video no music and it was to the point and went through all the process.
+dominic thompson I wish. No, just a former tech that spent too much money with them and now a Snap-on dealer.
@@MrSubaru1387 hook us up then 😝
No longer a dealer. 4 years was long enough. Lol
Like all your videos! Awesome! Pity no Tribeca repair ((
+Илья Батурин most all the repairs carry over to Tribeca.
Great video!! By chance would you know about the 2004 Subaru Outback circuits? I am trying to hook up a A/F sensor to the ignition as the ECU seems not be completing the ground even as everything else looks fine.
Good shit keep it up👍
Thanks. 👍🏻
No homo, but I love you because of your vids
Had this done around 6 months ago.. mechanic charged me around 400 bucks. Also had the front and rear pads and rotors done plus oil change etc. most money I’ve ever spent gettin my car fixed
If that was all for done in the same visit, thats actually a very good deal
I work at Jost whete we build rig 5th wheels. They install coter pins in a strange way to me, but they look good and it makes for quick production.
Cool thanks bro
Love your videos, big thanks! I have a 2003 Forester XS, is everything similar to this video? also, the old bearing is different because they break when you remove it?
The more I work on my 1999 subaru the more I hate this car. Rust makes every job 10 times harder than it should be. Great vid...wish it were that easy on my car.
thank you for making this video. I don't have a press. What can I use to do this procedure?
In your opinion would it be better to just get new hubs with bearings as an assembly? Also are Timkin bearings better than oem? I've got a 2002 Outback Sedan limited. Another question is can I put and EJ30 in my body as I see the LL Bean version comes with it. Is it worth the time and money or does the EJ30 have same head gasket issues? Thanks for all the info you help us with. I love my subi, got 173K on her and she's had the Felpro mls gaskets on her, I will be doing valve cover gaskets soon and wheel bearings too.
I have watched her many of your videos, thank you. I do have one question, the yellow piece in the center of bearing is that to indicate direction to install bearing, due to thrust?
The yellow piece holds the bearing together before installation.
Frist off new to Subaru's I'm in mid of doing this on my 04 legacy 35th sedan is this the same task or different ? The kit only comes with hub, inner & outer seals, one bearing unit per side.. is this all I need ? Thank you in advance your the guy I follow for subaru thanks for breaking it down. keep it up.
Yes, same process, just a little different components.
i see you were lightly hitting the spindle/caliper bracket i believe with the hammer to knock out from the ball joint... when my friend taught me how to put in a new CV, he put a pipe pointing directly into and against the A-arm or control arm right there next to it and banged on it from up high downward with a sledge to drop out the ball joint, any concern banging on the a arm like that?
It's a steel arm, no worries there. Would only be concerned hammering on an aluminum STi control arm.
This worked great up until i was pressing the spindle in. 12 tons wouldn't get that thing to go all the way down. I just got done sticking shims in the caliper bracket, it seems to have fixed the slight touching i had but only time will tell.
You know you ain't fuckin around when you torch the damn bolt 🤣🤣
I got my wheel wheel bearing replaced today and it literally exploded into 8 pieces when it was being taken apart. Somehow, we didn't die while driving with it beforehand.
Thanks for the video. 6:19 Where did you find the sleeve that’s supporting the spindle? I have a shop press but I can’t seem to find a sleeve that’s big enough to clear the wheel hub while supporting the steering knuckle. **frustrated**.
I had a hard time once I got the hub reinstalled it seemed like my wheel bearing was really tight and didnt want to turn. I did all 4 corners and I have the same loud whirring that I had before I did the repair. The pass front is still loose. What do you suppose I did wrong?
I noticed you used Dorman hubs. Are they a decent alternative to factory Subaru hubs (and to Moog, who doesn't make a hub for the 2nd gen Outback)?
Thanks again for a great video. So basically when spinning the old hub, there should be no audible scraping/grinding? A good bearing would be whisper quiet?
+Robert Ferraro yes. If you hear scraping /grinding, that's a no-no.
MrSubaru1387 so I snapped one of the ABS ring bolts. So rusted. Can I use it with only four bolts? It mounts up nice and tight to the new hub.
@MrSubaru1387 Hey thanks for all your vlogs i have a question killer b oil pan kit with the baffle and oil pick plus all new hardware etc.. does it fit a 2004 subaru outback 2.5 liter? Does the killer b pan kit fit?
Auto trans
Bravo
Hey I need some help. I’ve had my tires balanced and alignment checked! Once I hit about 40 mph and above I can feel/hear a whomp whomp vibration as the tires go around but it’s slower than the wheel rotation itself! Only does it when I go straight or slight right turns but if I make a left turn on a windy road it stops during that time. Would this probably be my left wheel bearing? Since weight being shifted to right side is making it stop momentarily?
That disassembly would've been nice to have seen
Ok so do I replace the entire knuckle? I just had him grab the inner assembly so... Fuck!!!!!! Now I gotta tell him to grab an actual bearing too! Thanks for the video brother, you showed me I was doing it right just a lot slower because I didn't have the fancy impact lol 😆
I have a 2004 outback. I was wondering where does the seal goes in? I only saw you put one seal on. Where does the other seal goes in? The only seal I saw you put on was the one seal that the C-clip was at.
I had to use a 2 foot beaker bar to loosen the 19mm strut bolts a huge headache. How about using heat and cold to ease the installation of the bearing my friend does it all the time.
Hiya I've got a bad front bearing in my '98 Legacy Outback. I don't have access to a shop press, so I used one of those bearing press kits. I got the new bearing pressed into the bore no problem, then I hit a snare. I accidentally pushed through both inner races with my fingers while installing the new outer seal and they both shifted and separated inside the outer race. It basically fell apart inside the bore. I was able to sandwich it all back together into the yellow plastic ring, but now I'm worried that I've compromised the bearing. I'm also second guessing whether I picked the right sized backing plate from the kit. Maybe I stressed the inner races?
Am I screwed?
Right, good video. I went by a shop asking about bearings and they told me that I have to change my break pads as well. They haven't seen them but is that true?
Only if the bearing has gotten play in it. If it's solid, and just noisy, then no, you don't. Unless your brakes are thin anyways.
Great video! Is it reasonable to just replace the hub assembly instead of just the bearing?
There is no hub assembly for these models. Pretty much all 08+ subarus have the entire hub assembly where you can unbolt it and bolt it back on. I have an 07 wrx and have to do it like shown in the video.
Hi Mr. Subaru. How long do OEM wheel bearings usually last?
100k
Did you bottom the hub out in the bearings on install? I was wondering because everywheel bearing I’ve done had a tensioning nut and you tightened it down to the correct bearing preload, but when I pressed mine in they seemed to turn awfully tight
Basically. When you torque the axle nut, that sets the final preload on the bearing.
What did you use to support the inner race when pressing in the hub? Could I turn the hub upside down and press knuckle on the hub?
I just recently put my car on the lift for a noise that sounded like the rotor hitting the dust plate but once I put it in first to hear the sound the wheel didn't move. I removed the pads and caliper, and even loosened the axle nut a bit to see if it would spin and still nothing. Is that still considered a sign of a bad bearing? All wheels move freely except that one. BTW thanks in advance for the vid. Really well detailed!
It very well could be a seized wheel bearing.
Hey man, first off just want to say great video! No BS.
Secondly. I bought a 2000 forester a few weeks ago, runs great. The past week or so I've noticed a sandpaper sound every so often, starting from a stop in 1st gear or going 60 on the highway. It isn't constant just every now and again. It's coming from the rear passenger. I suspect a bearing wearing out. But after doing somemore reading I thought maybe it could be a pebble stuck somewhere? The road i lived on just got fresh oil and regraveled so there's been loose gravel for awhile and thought maybe that could be the cause?
Once I get a paycheck I think I'll take it in to my local mechanic and just have him look at everything and grease all the joints that need to be.
Could it be a wheel bearing that just needs to be greased? I tried shaking the tire as hard as I could but it just moved the car a little.
Knowing Subarus, it's probably a wheel bearing. They aren't serviceable. They are a replacement only. It could be a pebble stuck in the rear brakes, but that would be a pretty constant sound and would most likely not last long before being ejected from the car.
MrSubaru1387 After listening more today and thinking of every possibility it's actually my AC unit
I did my bearing kinda of the same way and it failed in 2 days .was trq parts.I saw a video where a guy press ed the bearing on hub first then installed in hub pressed other bearing on .did yours last ?
I know this is an old video but I am prepping for this job and had one point of confusion: What is the "outer race" of the bearing that you take out earlier in the video but I don't see replaced/reinstalled later in the video?
The video is showing the *inner race* of the *outer bearing* Hence it was called the 'outer race'. A taper roller bearing has inner race, to which the actual rollers are attached in a cage, and an outer race. The inner race goes on the rotating shaft, be that a car axle or whatever, and the out race is pressed into a tube of some sort. Think old school front wheel bearing: the outer races go into the hub from either side, and the axle simply slides through the inner races and was lightly tensioned with a hub nut.
This sort of front wheel bearing is two taper roller bearings in one single housing. That housing is both outer races in one piece, and the two inner races/bearings come preinstalled.
Around the 10:00 mark, the new bearing unit is pressed into the spindle, then around 11:00 the hub is pressed into that, which jams the hub into both bearing inner races. So, when you disassemble it all, the hub ends up being pushed out with the inner race of the outer side, attached to it. Which then needs to be pulled off again with the bearing splitter.
Do you have any tricks for getting a broken ball joint bolt out? I had the head break off on the one and the head round on the other. I had put pb blaster on 3 times before working to try and get rust to break and am using hand tools. I also heated up before trying to take off.
+David Yost ouch. Been there before. You'll have to drill out the old bolt. Once you have the new hole drilled through and all the old bolt out you can extract the ball joint. I've had to chisel them out with an air hammer before. Hopefully yours will come out easier. A grade 10 bolt, nut, and lock washers can be used, or you can tap the new hole to accept a grade 10 bolt.
Subaru ball joint puller, the best $16 I ever spent.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but all those parts you used (seals, bearing ball joint, etc) are the same part numbers for a 1994 Legacy Alpine wagon with ABS , no turbo, no air suspension, am I correct? Thanks in advance.
I've fixed all my issue's on my own with the help of your video's. But I think this one is over my head lol. Are you in Portland by chance?
Glad my videos have been helpful. No, other side of the country. I'm in South Carolina.
MrSubaru1387 is there such a thing a pre pressed wheel bearings? Would I have to just replace the whole hub as well?
Not that I'm aware of.
I was wondering if you made a video on motor mount replacement
+Aaron Palacios no, unfortunately, not yet.
It's possible without hidraulic press? Anoter tool for take out the ball joint? (No hammer) thanks so much!
I always watch great videos, tell me how much do you have such a dyno key?
+Павел Кузьмин a dyno key? Not sure what you mean.
Torque wrench
Is it the same process and parts for a 2007 Subaru Forester? It’s for a front left side wheel bearing.
also what is the press tool you need for the bearing
@11:15 - How did you support the inner race from underneath? You had installed the snap ring earlier, but surely the snap ring is not what is supporting the race when pressing the hub into the bearings??
What did you use to support the knuckle when you were pressing out the hub?