2005 - 2009 Outback Legacy Front Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Overview of replacing a front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited wagon.
OEM hub bearing assembly part number is 28373AG01A
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- 
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This is quite possibly the most confidence inspiring video I have seen about working on cars. You made it seem so effortless and straightforward.
This comment ensured that I was going to get the help I needed from this video.
He makes it seem incredibly longwinded, cause you don't have to dissasemble half of that. So I disagree
I am about to replace my son's 2008 Subaru Legacy SW left hand wheel bearing. As an ex mechanic I can say without a doubt this is the most comprehensive video on how to do the job correctly and with the least amount of fuss. Like many others have commented this will save me heaps! Even to the smallest detail in telling you what spanner and or socket is required and each step in marked as a chapter, very simple to refer back to. Much appreciated 👍👍👍
EDIT : Just replaced my wheel bearing without having to take the tie rod off at 4:56, or the top camber strut or the abs sensor. Yes it makes the wheel bearing easier to get at but I found it not necessary.
Thanks, I have to do this job and had heard this was not required. I bought a flex extension for my impact wrench in anticipation of working around the CV joint
WHY THE FUCK AREN'T ALL REPAIR VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE THIS GOOD???
SERIOUSLY.....WELL DONE MAN.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Bravo! this should be the template for all you tube tutorials. No horrible music , guided tours, or psyco babble.. Straight forward comprehensive video. Thank you sir
You're welcome 👍🏻
Thank you for this, I try to do as much work to my car as I can myself so i remain self sufficient at least in the labour side of things and your videos are gold. Simple and easy to follow along with good subtitles. talking about what you are doing might help people as well. keep being awesome!
This was great, man. This saved me $350 in labor. Thank you so much for posting this and for including all the torque setting. So unbelievable helpful.
Man of many words 😜
Got me through the job, and brilliant to not have a RUclipsr in love with the sound of his own voice
Amen Brother.
I just did this job, and as many others here have said it is completely possible to access the bearing bolts without disconnecting the knuckle or any other component. I just used a relatively thin-walled deep socket and pushed the axle back as far as it would go. Of course you can turn the wheel to get a better angle, but the bolts were not hard to get to. The old hub was so rusted on it took me 1/4 hour to beat loose with a sledge, but the bolts still came loose easily with a ratchet.
5 years later and still saving lives. This video made it a flawless process, other than 30min of me beating the piss out of my axle to dislodge it from the hub.
This is the first place I found with an explanation about the purpose of the center hole and how to safely knock out the axle from the hub assembly. THANK YOU MR SUBARU!!!!! I can finally move forward on my cv rebooting project. 💕💋
I've done boots before, but due to the value of my time, It's so much cheaper, not to mention easier to just replace the axle assy.
I had a 02 OB that i replaced the bearing on. Press in bearings. It was a pain, took the spindle off and took it to a local shop to have them press them . I recently traded the OB for a 07 OB and im so thankful to see bolt on bearings, Ill be doing this repair soon, car has 123K it wouldnt hurt to replace them and the lower bushing. Thanks for the video, your channel rocks!
This is one of the best videos I have seen for replacing a bad wheel bearing!! Thank you so much for taking the time to put together a great video...it was much a appreciated. Also, it was nice to see a mechanic at work vs a bunch of "hammer slammers" that like to put their videos out on RUclips.
Excellent production, each operation is abundantly clear, as professional as the guy performing the repair.
Mine seriously started getting bad a couple days ago. This video was much needed.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I'm glad you removed the steering knuckle, I'm replacing mine this weekend. You have the absolute best videos for repairs. Your videos make me glad that I own a Subaru!
Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍🏻 :)
I have watched about 6 of these videos trying to show the correct steps to do the bearing hub removal and refitting of a new hub. I have to say here that your video is the best, it is the most instructive and the clearest in method and the ease in which you under take the process of the job at hand. Are you a mechanic as you flowed through the process smoothly and without any talking at all. The sub titles were adequate and complemented your video nicely. Congratulations on an excellent video and I used YOUR video to do the job myself on my own Legacy. I loved the idea of removing the steering arm ball joint, none of the others mentioned this idea and using this idea I was able to complete the job even without removing the Upper camber bolt and its lower bolt. Easy peasy thanks very much. Love your selection of cordless tools as well made your job easier I bet.
WORD. I just completed this job. The video is great.
Just installed new wheel bearings today on my 2005 Outback. This video made it super easy. Thank you so much!
Great video. Very helpful. Looks virtually identical to the old Jeep Dana 30 until bearings I used to do (a lot). Nothing but talking from this guy!
I would never have attempted that myself until I watched this brilliant video.
Took me a while longer than 2 hours though, had some very stuck bolts which a 6 ft steel bar over the wrench fixed :)
Cheers mate, you saved me a ton of cash.
I'm a big fan of your channel. I just did on my 2005 OBXT without removing the tie rod and the strut. Took me only 45 min... Lucky me nothing was jammed :)
Re watched this over the last few weeks after putting off bearings for other fixes. had a humming sound figured it was not bearings; do to typical off floor running the wheels, checking for play at fixed positions. Replaced bad bushing control arms, felt better but still hummed. U joints and carrier bearing have too much play, replaced and went into reverse a lot more smooth but still hummed haha. Did the front bearings today and its gone; I assume eventually if ignored would have gotten louder and worse haha. always helpful content thanks
First of all fantastic video. Why I am impressed: no commentary and quite frankly the video was done so well you really don't need it and the fact that you did all this on gravel on what seems to be the side of the road! I'm impressed. I'm going to tackle this soon on my 2011 Gen 4 Outback. I live in the country and my driveway looks identical to your conditions. Completely agree with OEM on this type of part. Nice work!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. It's actually my long gravel driveway here on the farm. Would be nice to have a shop and a concrete floor to film.
thanks for the upload man, very informative and you saved me about a 150$. first time ever getting past the calipers and the whole deal only took me 2 hours
Well presented and silent.
Perfect for the home repairer.
Good notes when needed.
Love the no bloody music.
Will be back.
Glad you enjoyed it. 👍🏻
kinda nice that the hub is all one unit rather than having to drive out races and repack bearings and all of that mess.
Thanks to your video, i was able to change the front wheel bearing hub assembly myself. Saved me tons of money and i learned quite alot by doing it myself. I did make a mistake though. I tightend the bolts for the hub to 80 NM instead of 65 NM. I hope that is not giong to bite me in the ***.
Thanks for you effort.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Hey man I love you videos I cant tell you how many times you've helped me with my old 2000 Impreza rs
Outstanding video. No time wasting chatter! Love it.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great instructions!! Just followed the video and did it by myself. Thanks for the video.
Thank you brother for not playing loud music.
Many thanks !!!!!!!!! - specially for the torques during reassembly.
great video. I always pop the lower ball joint stud instead of the strut bolts.
Going to be doing this on my 05 OBXT. Thank you for the detailed walkthrough!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Repair went off without a hitch thanks to your excellent walkthrough. Thanks again!
@@stevenborgogna you're welcome!
Great work as usual. You make everything look like it's child play
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
On my 2005 Outback 3.0R I had to replace both rear wheel bearings. Bought it with 150k miles. At moderate speeds it sounded like a jet engine (above like 25-30 mph). At highway speeds we had to yell to have a conversation. I ordered 2 OEM Legacy/Outback hubs off Ebay for like 125 ea. I ended up getting the local mechanic to install it which was easier as they had a lift. The front is more complicated as the tie rods for the steering also are there whereas the rear only had the axles.
I wouldn't have trusted jackstands on dirt ! But great video. Even though it had a shade tree mechanic feel to it, I can tell you know what you are doing. I really liked the way you held the rotor still while you torqued your axle nut. Great idea !
Yes, my friend's uncle died from a jackstand failing on dirt. Probably not a good example to set.. I hate to be a prick but this is an instructional video after all..
Thank you for your valuable information it has been very helpful
Thanks for the video.
when i see the tires, I have the feeling that they look like a little turn of the cam bolt wouldn't have been a problem for them ;-)
I was about to give up on this job...thing was stuck in the knuckle pretty bad. Can of penetrating lube later and 10 minutes of pounding - nothing (that's what she said). Cracked open a cold one, sat down and grabbed my torch. Gave it a few good smacks and it finally popped off.
Very good viseo.
Thank you !
Thanks for making the video 👍.
Wonderful! Really helpful!! Thank you.
You're welcome.
Jobs like this never go this smooth at home LOL
Just did this one myself. Great video.
One quick tip I found; those brake mount bolts were particularly terrible and obnoxious. Bad angle, stuck real bad.
Fortunately, they don’t need to come off, only the calipers do.
There’s enough wiggle room inbetween the bracket for the hub, brake shield and rotor to clear the axle. Then it slides right out once those 4 support bolts are taken out.
Reassembly is only slightly more annoying since you have to manually line up the brake shield and hub holes all at once with the rotor on. Not too bad though. .
A very helpful video.
You are the best in the West!!🎉 And all
There's no need to remove steering knuckle and strut. If you have long 14 mm socket, you can reach the rear hub bolts without removing suspension, makes the job much faster ;)
I do this to show viewers better in the video.
great video, thanks
If you don't have a big nut smacker like the Snap-On Mr. Subaru has (or the 1/2" Milwaukee or similar), do yourself a favor and get the insert out of the wheel, put it back on with at least 2 bolts opposite each other, lower the baby back down and put your back in to it. I'm writing this because today I forgot, but had a screwdriver jammed into the brakes to immobilize, and it works! This was an American made Craftsman screwdriver, I'm sure Harbor Freight wont cut it. Didn't even bend a little!
Nice work as ever, Query, distinct ridges on tone ring 10.33. old one. smooth ton ring on new one 10 54.
Thank you so much for this video, Mr. Subaru1387! Whereas I could not get the tie rod end to let go by hitting the knuckle or by tapping (gently) from the top, your video made the rest of my hub replacement process so much easier than the Haynes manual ever could. Speaking of the tie rod end - there was a little bit of grease that leaked from both sides of the car when I did this - is that a concern, or something I should disconnect my OCD from?
For everyone else out there (and perhaps Mr. Subaru1387 can chime in on this if he wants to do a PSA), I live in NJ and my bearings were the original ones (10 NJ winters) and no matter how hard I beat on the bearing it would not come out without the aid of a "Hub Buster", specifically the ATD Tools Wheel Hub Removal Tool, which did the trick with about 5 blows from a 4lb sledge hammer. Some folks on the internet have expressed concern about this tool causing damage to the axle, but so far so good on my part.
Thanks again, good sir - you saved my bacon as with a Covid-19 related layoff situation, I could not afford to have this job done by a Stealership, but it did afford me the time to get the job done right with the guidance of your fine video.
Ruthless with the uggdugga wrench haha I’m spoiled too, but that abs sensor, I was terrified for ya lol
Great tutorial, some of those "specialty tools" used do cost a small fortune though. Not every backyard mechanic can afford them.
Back plates on many 2005 Legacy cars will be in very tender condition, especially in salt country. The perfect time to replace them is during this operation, or at least brush down both sides of what's left of them with some Black Star rustproofing or equivalent. I'll be replacing my back plates with each hub/bearing assembly as needed. My right front bearing is howling for attention as I write. It finally started making the alloy wheel warm in less than 30 miles. Time to park it 'til the job is done. I wish it were summer. I now see I could do this myself. I have all the tools and stands, but I'm also sure I'd use up some knuckle skin and get a little back stiffness in the bargain. Job security for our mechanic is a good thing.
very good video. i did this on my 2004 legacy today and was looking around for torque specs :)
I did the job without removing anything more then the caliper, and brakedisc. it is possible to get a 14mm socket on the bolts holding the hub and replace it without removing any allignment bolts.
I have a 2004 Subaru legacy wagon 3.0R needing to replace my front hub assembly are they the same ?
@@jessiahkraak2742 same model and year as mine, so should be the same.
How'd you manage that? Ratchet + extension?
Thats a mighty nice cordless impact you have there.
Thank you.
Nice videos two thumbs UP
Thank you. 👍🏻
Nice work.
Thank you. 👍🏻
Impact is basically required if you live in the rust belt. Snapped two breaker bars and a socket on the camber bolt. Great video though!
Exeselet Job. And good video. Thank you for you help
Glad you enjoyed it. You're welcome.
great helpfull video and great tools ,can i borrow them, ha ha
Great video 👍
Thanks
Great video
Thank you. 👍🏻
Thanks!
Would this be a similar way to change the rear wheel bearing assembly for a 2004 Subaru Forester??
Hello from NZ
Your very skilled at ur work and I have 2 outback ez30s.. Thank I'll be subscribed to u now.. And the work u do is very motivating and encouraging.. Thank very much.
NEW ZEALAND supporter.. 😊😊😊😊P. S do u have shirts or jumpers?
I just replaced the axel on my 05 Legacy GT wagon it was clicking and making as if something was moving back and forth when you turned or when you first started to accelerate. I replaced the axel because the boot was cut and there was no grease in there. I put an OEM Subaru axel. The car doesn’t shake but I still feel and hearing something when start to accelerate or turn. Could this be an issue?
I just replaced with moog replacement part and now I have check engine light on and other lights along with abs is this because I didn’t use OEM?
Nice job.
I have a question regarding retrofitting those newer hubs to the older the 03-06 Baja and 01-04 Outback, will it fit with minor mods?
more videos of this Generation model! only because i own one :P
Just got the title to the 05 LGT sedan in the background. There will be more. Has a rod knock, so we'll be going inside the EJ255 soon enough.
then Ez30 swap it with a 6 speed trans :P
Well I have a surprise planned for tomorrow, I think I'll be resurrecting my 95 Legacy, "Patches", and do the swap on my 2nd gen instead.
any thoughts on turboing the EZ? i cant decide whether turbo or supercharging.
Superchargers are bolt on. Raptor in Australia makes a kit. The turbo would be a one off fab. Ever seen Mighty Car Mods' Gramps project?
Changed three of the wheel bearings on my car with no problems. The Front right however, two of the hub bolts are stuck on there.... ended up rounding 2 of the bolts. Just my luck. Going to try the blue shop towel method. If that doesn’t work, extractor socket.
I suspect I have a bad wheel bearing on one of the front wheels. I hear roaring/whirling noise gets louder as I accelerate. The noise goes away only when turning left. I think the right front bearing is bad since the noise goes away with the weight off on left side when turning left. And putting more weight on Right side makes the bearing quiet. What do you think? I would appreciate any help/advice. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I am anxious to see what other material you have up there. Anything for a noisy '97?
I just replaced a bolt in style hub assy in a 08 Legacy w/o removing the tie rod or axle from knuckle!
Same here, he removed way too many parts for just a hub/bearing replacement!!!!!
You realize I'm making a DIY video, right? Camera angles, showing parts and fasteners to people.. Come on now.
@@MrSubaru1387 Yes I realize that but a novice DIYer will think that it is necessary to remove all those parts just to replace the hub/bearing assambly. For what it's worth I liked you video & the way you presented the repair :) P.S. It must be nice to work on rust free parts !
@@MrSubaru1387 it does help to show what it looks like.
Nice video as always. Thank you. Looks much easier than the press in style of the older ones. You would normally change both, correct?
They are much easier to change. These are about $220 each from the dealership though. Press in bearings were $40 from the dealer. All about cost to install difficulty ratio. No, they don't have to be changed in pairs.
Hi from NZ! I suspect my car's suffering from the same problem 😬 and I'm not sure the males in my household will be able to help assist me lol... So fingers crossed it all goes well! I'm wanting to attempt doing this myself. Any tips on what I should/shouldn't do? 😊
Is the right hand side Axel nut a different direction? Plz help.
I'm following the directions down to a tea. But can't get that aluminium Axel nut to crack. IV done WD 40. Heat and body Weight even on a crack bar. No luck....
I see some guys leave the camber bolts alone, and take the ball joint out of the lower control arm so they can get the CV joint and axle out before taking the bearing off with a slide hammer or hub buster. I take it you feel it is easier to disconnect the upper strut mount, because that way you don't need to fiddle with the lower ball joint? Or, do you do it that way because you have more room and a better angle to hammer the bearing out from the inside?
Subaru factory service manual states to remove the strut to spindle bolts, rather than the ball joint. I try to demonstrate Subaru FSM techniques in my videos. Removing the ball joint and pulling the assembly out also puts a lot of stress/stain on the strut and strut mount. Marking the camber bolt to the strut makes it easy to reassemble in alignment.
just had a rear wheel bearing replaced on 05 Outback. Knocked out the rear seal and it appears the grease was dry. No damage apparent in the race. Has anyone attempted to install a grease fitting? Seems like these bearings should last forever if greased?
Very Nice. Thank you. I do have a question about how you feel about Timken bearing replacements? I know you recommend OEM, but would you consider Timken a reasonable substitute if availability/time is an issue?
Which bolts can be used to remove the rusted break roter? Are either of the bolts used from a previous step?
Anyone know offhand what the thread pitch is on the bolts used to push off the rotor? Last time I replaced them I just hammered them off but will be reusing them this time around.
Great approach. I would be afraid of damaging/ shortening the life of that poor ball joint.
I have a few question I would like you to answer. 1st I noticed you used snap-on, what produce would you suggest for a novice. 2nd what size bolt/ pitch did you use to remove the caliber. 3rd You used a rod or long punch between the caliber as you screwed in the center nut, then you removed it and used the driver wrench to tighten the nut then torpedo to set pounds. Why did you do that? In closing that was an excellent video. Looking forward to hearing from you.
I finally bought a floor jack like that (after giving away a cheap one) but I think I got it too short! LOL. barely if at all gets the wheels off the ground on my 2010! 😂😂
When you reinstall chamber bolt and align it up with the mark when it gets torqued down does that not change where it is aligned then im curious, great vid by the way if i need to change my bearings or axles i know how to now thanks to your vids 👍
Hey MrSubaru my 99' Forester has been having a check engine light a P0440, I'm pretty sure it's an evap problem but i have no idea what it could be. I don't hear a leak in the muffler, and i already replaced the old filler neck with a brand new one. Any ideas on what the problem might be or how to pinpoint it?
P0440 is like you said, an EVAP leak. It could be a loose gas cap, leaking/cracked evap lines from the gas tank to the purge solenoid, drain solenoid, pressure control solenoid, a leaking fuel pump module seal, etc. Hard to give a clear cut direction on the diagnosis of the issue. Most EVAP leaks are from a loose gas cap. Other than that, you usually need a scan tool and smoke machine to locate the leak.
was going to attempt this job on my 04 legacy today but i don't own any power tools of any kind, im rocking old skool tool setup lol think i be getting my mate who is an actual mechanic to do this
04 is a press in. Only 05 up are bolt in bearings.
@@MrSubaru1387 mine are hubs same as yours
@@thezen8021 Australia? UK?
@@MrSubaru1387 yes mate, 2.5 auto saloon
@@thezen8021 yeah, like Japan, your model years are ahead of our USDM models.
Subscribed! Going to replace the RF bearing on my ‘05 L.L. Bean. Half shaft has a torn boot and is clicking, what brand would you suggest? I hear Subaru dealers sell rebuilt versions? Don’t want any vibrations. Thanks!
Subaru reman on the axle. 👍🏻
Great videos. Enjoy watching. Very professional. Any advise for getting torque specs for this job on a 17 crosstrek? Or are they similar?
Jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru
One more question. I have to drop the trans pan on a cvt xv and the manual says just use 3 bond or equivalent ( ultra grey) but I have found an oem gasket. Should I use the gasket and ultra grey, just ultra grey or just gasket. Thanks as always.
Just the ultra grey is what I'd personally do.
Recently hit a curb bending inner tie rod and causing the steering wheel to go crooked. Replaced driver side inner/outer and got an alignment along with balancing of the wheels. Could anything else have bent causing a vibration/noise above 40mph? sounds like a weird humming/ramping up noise. Some research shows it could be a bearing or cvaxle. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hitting that hard likely damaged the wheel bearing hub assembly as well.
Great video and I'll be doing this to my 08 Legacy soon. One question though, is it necessary to take off the spindle from the strut mount and tie rod end or could you do this while it's still all connected?
Its to get the axle out of the way so you can remove the bolts that hold in the bearing assembly.
The specs! The TORQUE SPECS!
Will those knuckles bolt onto an 04 Forester?
does anyone know if this same wheel bearing assembly will work for the forester (03-08)?
Very good video. Mine has been bad for a while now. Could a bad bearing affect the ABS readings?
It is a possibility.
Is it possible to change the wheel bearing without touching the cam bolt?
Also as a second comment, when should you check your gear oil dipstick? I have the 6sp manual 3.0r 2005 legacy, and I checked it before I had turned car on, and it was definitely on the low side. Its sometimes hard to get into gears when the car is warming up so maybe I dont have enough in there? Thoughts?
I check all the fluids every oil change. How long has it been since you replaced the gear oil in the transmission? May be time for fresh fluid.
I got a shop to do it when I first bought it about a year ago. Just checked the other day as I was under the hood and it was on the L line. Wondering if maybe the shop didnt put enough in all that time ago. Also for the when I meant do it when the car is warm or cold?
Service manual says check cold.