Repair covers 2005-2009 Legacy and Outbacks. This procedure is quite similar for 2010+ as well. Correction from the video, the control arm bolt to the cross member shouldn't be fully torqued until the vehicle is on the ground with full weight on the suspension. Also, I meant to head off the video with what to look for as a sign of failure. You may hear squeaking from the front end. You may hear clunking. The easiest way to tell if the bushings are bad is just a visual inspection. Look for cracks and tears in the rubber as shown in the video.
there is an alignment on rear bushing, raise "numb" faces up ,but also align with numb on the steel arm. I checked PRODEMAND, I am going to repalce them today .your video is very useful to me .
Thank you for posting this! I just did the Front Control arm rear bushing on my XV Crosstrek. Very similar setup, and it worked a charm. Car is WAY more stable and smoother.
A long process, but need to do a check of mine, awesome and direct video, straight forward and easy to follow even having parts numbers thanks for the probably one of the best tutorials on RUclips
You're a Subaru Chrisfix! I love how specific your incredibly useful videos are. The one thing missing is consistent listing of all models and years for which a video is applicable.
I bought that same Snap-On impact to do these and all 4 struts on my little brother's 2006 Outback, and HOLY CRAP it makes these jobs easier. Should have bought one years ago.
Nice video. However, I wish more emphasis should have been given to the correct orientation/alignment of the rear bushing. Not only should the rubber knobs point upwards but they should also form a straight line (critical) with the fwd bushing. Otherwise the designed ‘twisting’ (torsion) load on the rubber would be ‘shear’ load instead...which will surely reduce the life of the new bushing. Thanks.
Another consideration is to change the other side out. If one side is going the other is most likely not far behind. I got new Moog Control Arms with all of the bushings and front ball joint for 80 buck a piece so didn't have to worry about any of the alignment issue as that was all taken care of by the folks at Moog. Recommended to change out the Sway bar bushings while you are in there. Another reason to buy the entire arm, no hydraulic press or bushing press kit required
getting borderline death wobble at 65 to 70 mph on my wrx 2011. rear bushing is shot from what see from turning the wheel and slight movment from the control arm when turning the steering wheel back and forth. going with this change. thanks for sharing this.
Just subscribed! Glad I found you. I drive a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport non turbo. Bought used in 2014. Already put more money into keeping it going than what I paid. (3,500). But hey better than a 5 year mortgage at hundreds every month. It’s Paid for. Never left me stranded. And love the AWD.
You should raise the control arm with a jack before tightening them. If will preload them to ride height not when the car is raised. It will give your bushings longer life.
Corrected in pinned comment. Final torque of the front 17mm bolt & nut is to be performed with full vehicle weight on the suspension. All other fasteners are fine to torque unloaded, per the factory service manual.
I can't wait until I get the chance to change the control arm bushings and ball joints on my 2010 Legacy 3.6 R limited I looked up the bushings for the 05-up legacy bushings are the same as 2010-2014. If so I want to order polyurethane bushings and install them. Thank you for your time and for the video it will help me.
I replaced mine front and rear following the guidance of your video!! Legacy 2005...now how to stop my cruise control light from flashing? Cant seem to find info about that issue...
Whole new control arm with bushings installed from Moog or any other reputable brand is around $60-$80. The bushings alone from dealer would have cost me $70 so I just bought a whole new arm and installed. Much easier and same price.
Agreed that swapping out the whole assembly is a fast, and often cost effective way to refreshing all the control arm components at once. But that is not what this video is about. This video is about changing out the bushings. This video presents an approach, without compromise, of changing out the bushings. The video does exactly what the title says.
Moog usually does a solid job. This said, I had the rear bushings fail on both sides on the original Subaru control arm assemblies, after only 40,000 miles on a 2013 Outback. And the current Subaru control arm assembly for our cars has a BIGGER rear bushing than the original. The factory arms were $99 each from McKenna Subaru here in Southern California. The new rear bushing on the $99 control arm assembly is a factory up-grade on the previous part. The front bushing and the ball joint are typically good for 80,000 or better, depending on where you drive. But that rear bushing from 2013 is weak, and has been superseded by a stronger part. This might be a consideration in shopping for Moog or Subaru. The 'street' price for factory is about $20 higher per side than after market. Does the Moog have a bigger than original-stock bushing in back? I don't know. They are often good at spotting this kind of thing. I do know that the current factory part has a strengthened rear bushing.
I replaced the lower control arm on my 2010 Legacy sedan yesterday. I tightened the pinch bolt on the ball joint to specs while the car was still on jack stands with the wheel removed. I then did the same thing with the rear bushing bolt. I was looking at the FSM which asked for the rear and front bushing bolts to be tightened after the suspension was loaded. Since I could not get under the car to tighten the front bushing when the wheel was on the ground, I tried using ramps, but the space was still too cramped. I took the wheel off, put the car on jack stands and used another floor jack under the control arm under the ball joint to barely lift the front-end of the car off the pinch weld on which it was resting. I did not lift the car all the way off the jack stand on the pinch weld. I then tightened the front bushing bolt. I am wondering if I should have tightened the rear bushing bolt at the same time instead of doing it while the suspension was not on load and also wondering if I should have lifted the car off the pinch weld jack stand completely before tightening the front bushing bolt.
@@infotechsailor I buy the best tools I can, take care of them and they serve me well for a lifetime. I hate using cheap shit. I have probably close to $80,000 in Snap-On tools and if something breaks, the truck comes to me once a week and I get a new one. I don't think Snap-On is always the best tool, though.
What are the driver/ socket sizes to push out the front control arm bushings on a 2005 Outback. Also, what size cups do I need to catch the bushings. I also need to replace my trailing arms . Would you please forward those sizes . Thanking you in advance.
Very helpful, I just replaced everything in my driveway. Maybe I missed it in the video, but shouldn't the front bushing bolts be torqued on the ground? In other words with the suspension loaded at ride height?
Great job! Clear and to the point. Thank you! I still like the videos where you talk about what you’re doing rather than doing it all in silence and adding “subtitles” of each step. I’m sure the written step by step is helpful for those following along step by step in their driveway, and the torque specs in writing are clear. So, I can see the usefulness of that. It’s just weird (sort of eerie) to me hearing you work on the car but not speak. Just my opinion. (Maybe that’s another reason I often talk to myself while I’m working....) 😆
I have a 2006 imperza 2.5i sedan would this be exact same replacement. Both fronts👍 I never thought Id see a press machine in the house. Do you Two presses one in garage. Other in house during winter. I maybe try get a table benchtop press. Have you put an engine on stand in the house too.
I think I just had a coronary. Just bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT. Drove it 50 miles and got a CEL. 2 codes. P0171 and IDK the other one. Brought it to a mechanic. Said something about o2 sensor. And needed the front lower control arm bushing rear bushing replaced. They spent 5 hours on the car today addressing the CEL's. Now in order to finish car needs to put in the sensor and bushing and said it would be $1500!!!!!! That cannot be right.
My 2012 outback needs new FL contol arm bushings, but the shop is suggesting that I replace the entire control arm. Are they just trying to take me for money, or would it be worth it just to swap it all out?
Let me say completed assembly for a pair run $144.95. to me...thats the way to go. Ball joint, front bushing and rear "puck" already installed on the arm....bingo! Both front sides! My 07 outback.
Thanks for all the great videos bro! I have 2006 subaru legacy 2.5gt spec b. I removed the control arms had new bushings pressed in and am having a hard time find the torque specs. Any help would be greatly appreciate! Thanks again for your work on the videos they've helped me immensely
Great video, the question I notice you did not put a load on the new lower control arm before you torque the bolts? Other video stayed put a load on the control arm (ride high) before final torque.
I’m trying to chase down a clunking gremlin on my 09FXT all of my suspension parts look great but I did notice that these bushings didn’t look so great. What would be the symptoms? I appreciate the help
Superb work. My main Subaru dealer ( UK ) is replacing all 4 front bushings on my 2014 Forester XT. They advise 1.8 hours per side. Sound about right ?
Great video, although I was in pain thinking of you lying/kneeling on the gravel! Is there a way to remove/install the bushings if you don't have a press?
Hi. Just a curious question. Is it possible to just change the bushings without removing the control arm completely from the car? I have a 2006 Subaru Outback L L Bean Edition and it’s time to change the bushings. Also, I love watching your very helpful videos!
Awesome video! Going to do mine soon, maybe next week. Likely all control arm bushes together with the wheel hub assembly. After a moderate curb bump my wheel makes humming noise, and bushing is completely torn off. Very helpful watch. Just wish you included part numbers in the description for easier copy/paste :) In any case, Mucho Appreciado! One more thing, what did you use as a jacking up point?
Getting the control arm off of the ball joint stud was tough and I used a ball joint separator. Can I use the same ball joint if using a ball joint separator on the ball joint stud or does it weaken it?
Yes, it’s basically the same cups that you use with the press but a long bolt with a ball bearing that you tighten the heck out of, I don’t know about Subarus but Honda you can only replace those compliance bushings once and we put a big yellow dot on the control arm to let the next tech knows , it has has been changed before and you have to replace the control arm, After market control arms are not much more than the bushings so if you don’t have a press and tools I would just change the whole control arm.
Yeah it ended up buying a kit from Harbor Freight you didn't have the right cup size so I went to Tractor Supply got a socket it was a little thick so I bought a third lower control arm bushing hollowed it out and use that sleeve work like a champ my problem is I couldn't get the old bushing out without fighting it really hard and I finally got it out and I'll put the new one in Zipcar down on the ground I actually said it back on ramps I pulled it up on wraps because I knew I had to preload the suspension and check it out put it on the ramps and now four days later the control arm bushing is coming out the top WTF
Perfect timing. My 04 Forester XT needs lower control arms. Is that something an average guy like me can do? Chiltons say you also have to take off subframe to do the job, is that true? My dealer wants $695 to install them, I buy the parts, which I get from Subaru dealer online cheaper. I have average set of tools and do the work on the street in front of house. Learned a lot from watching these vids. Thanks.
Not sure if the Forester has an extra subframe over the control arms like the WRX does. Possible. If it has the subframe it will be more challenging, but should still be do-able.
I've subscribed a while now and have been using your tutorials to help save myself a few dollars. Thank you for what you do! I've two quick questions: One, where do you find service manuals online? My local dealer never has these. I want to ensure I'm torquing correctly. Two, how do I know when the stabiliser end links are bad? What do I look / feel for?
jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ The older model's joints will be visibly cracked, worn, loose. The nearly links, that use spherical joints, will usually have torn boots, looseness in the joint, when pulling with a prybar lightly, and you'll be hearing some knocking/thudding from the front suspension.
Great vid. Got a quote for 440 for right control arm bushing. Going to tackle it on my own. The only problem i see is that i dont have the equipment to press it out. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch.
You can burn the rubber out then cut the metal inner band with a hacksaw for removal, don't recommend. You can drill the rubber and then cut. There are several ways to remove them without a press. Reinstalling without a press is more tricky. I've seen people drive them in with a hammer, but don't really recommend that either. Best bet would be to remove the old bushings and take the new bushings amd control arms to a shop and ask them the charge to press them in for you.
Oreilly or other autoparts stores will lend tools for free. (You pay for them up front but if you bring them back they give you your money back). Ask for the tool loan program. Usually they have this with specialty tools like bearing presses.
I got the rear and front struts replaced on my 02 Subaru Outback Wagon VDC, but there are still squeaking sounds which were still there before I replaced the struts. Do you know if it is the bushings on the control arms and stablizer bar?
3:00 if that sucker doesn't come off as easily as that, a brass-faced snap in a pneumatic rivet gun will have it off in 5 seconds flat. Same goes for tie rod end.
what made you do oem rubber and no poly. my 2012 impreza needs new bushing and its autocross, but also my daily. I don't know if I should do oem, delrin, or poly bushing.
The Spec B has aluminum LCAs is the process any different? I ask as I can tell you the bilsteins on the Spec B are impossible to replace using a standard spring compressor and can even be trouble with a proper spring compressor.
Great Video, All WORK and No BS....I am Told that the shimmy in my Legacy front end when braking , which is DEFINITELY NOT Brake Related, is Most likely caused by warn lower Bushings, can you confirm this ?
Usually a shake under braking is warped rotors. If you know for a fact the rotors aren't warped, then control arm bushings are a likely cause. Any worn components in the front suspension could cause issue. Be sure to check for play in the wheel bearings, tie rods, and ball joints as well.
Very nice. Love the shake test to make sure it's not going to fall of the jackstands, and then leaving the jack under it.
Repair covers 2005-2009 Legacy and Outbacks. This procedure is quite similar for 2010+ as well. Correction from the video, the control arm bolt to the cross member shouldn't be fully torqued until the vehicle is on the ground with full weight on the suspension. Also, I meant to head off the video with what to look for as a sign of failure. You may hear squeaking from the front end. You may hear clunking. The easiest way to tell if the bushings are bad is just a visual inspection. Look for cracks and tears in the rubber as shown in the video.
My car is low to the ground, can I torque down the bolts with the car on ramps?
Yes. What I ended up doing. Weight of the car just needs to be on the suspension before final torque.
there is an alignment on rear bushing, raise "numb" faces up ,but also align with numb on the steel arm. I checked PRODEMAND, I am going to repalce them today .your video is very useful to me .
Should you replace both bushings if 1 is bad. Or should you replace all bushings as a whole?
What happens if that bolt is fully torque without the full weight of the car?
Thank you for posting this! I just did the Front Control arm rear bushing on my XV Crosstrek. Very similar setup, and it worked a charm. Car is WAY more stable and smoother.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
Wooow !! THAT'S what I call a complete ''How To'' video
A long process, but need to do a check of mine, awesome and direct video, straight forward and easy to follow even having parts numbers thanks for the probably one of the best tutorials on RUclips
Glad to help. 👍🏻
You're a Subaru Chrisfix! I love how specific your incredibly useful videos are. The one thing missing is consistent listing of all models and years for which a video is applicable.
I appreciate you and the fact you do work on an Outback. Helps me a ton
Looks so lovely not having to deal with rusted/breaking fasteners.
That it is. Nice living well below the rust belt. Haha
I’m doing this right now and the rust makes this insanely different lol
Thank you so much for the fabulous video. Straight to the point, step by step. A1!
I bought that same Snap-On impact to do these and all 4 struts on my little brother's 2006 Outback, and HOLY CRAP it makes these jobs easier. Should have bought one years ago.
What were they called?
Is the ghost the new co host😂? Btw great content
Great tutorial keep it up my bruh. I would like to see a gas tank removal and install on subaru gc8
Great video! We’re about to do both bushings on a 2009 outback, what size are the sockets/cups you use on the press?
Nice video. However, I wish more emphasis should have been given to the correct orientation/alignment of the rear bushing. Not only should the rubber knobs point upwards but they should also form a straight line (critical) with the fwd bushing. Otherwise the designed ‘twisting’ (torsion) load on the rubber would be ‘shear’ load instead...which will surely reduce the life of the new bushing. Thanks.
Very good point. That's what it says in my 2014 manual in the Chassis Section, Section 7. titled "Front Arm. pdf". This is critical info for sure.
Another consideration is to change the other side out. If one side is going the other is most likely not far behind. I got new Moog Control Arms with all of the bushings and front ball joint for 80 buck a piece so didn't have to worry about any of the alignment issue as that was all taken care of by the folks at Moog. Recommended to change out the Sway bar bushings while you are in there. Another reason to buy the entire arm, no hydraulic press or bushing press kit required
Great video, very useful and without bloat. Thank you.
getting borderline death wobble at 65 to 70 mph on my wrx 2011. rear bushing is shot from what see from turning the wheel and slight movment from the control arm when turning the steering wheel back and forth. going with this change. thanks for sharing this.
Just subscribed! Glad I found you.
I drive a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport non turbo. Bought used in 2014. Already put more money into keeping it going than what I paid. (3,500). But hey better than a 5 year mortgage at hundreds every month. It’s Paid for. Never left me stranded. And love the AWD.
Looks like a pretty involved repair. Excellent video. Thanks
You're welcome. 👍🏻
You should raise the control arm with a jack before tightening them. If will preload them to ride height not when the car is raised. It will give your bushings longer life.
Corrected in pinned comment. Final torque of the front 17mm bolt & nut is to be performed with full vehicle weight on the suspension. All other fasteners are fine to torque unloaded, per the factory service manual.
The best, crystal clear videos!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. 👍
And torque bushings when the rotors are levelled as if the wheels are on the ground. You can use a jack to raise the rotor
I can't wait until I get the chance to change the control arm bushings and ball joints on my 2010 Legacy 3.6 R limited I looked up the bushings for the 05-up legacy bushings are the same as 2010-2014. If so I want to order polyurethane bushings and install them. Thank you for your time and for the video it will help me.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Great video.I am doing this to my Crosstrek some time this week.Thank you.
Very helpful. I have to replace mine on my 2005 Legacy GT. But I will be installing Whiteline Bushings instead of OEM.
I replaced mine front and rear following the guidance of your video!! Legacy 2005...now how to stop my cruise control light from flashing? Cant seem to find info about that issue...
Is the CEL on as well?
@@MrSubaru1387 ...yes the CEL is on, while the CCL flashes...
Cruise control light flashes and disables anytime the CEL is on in 2005+ Subarus. Fixing the CEL, fixes the cruise control.
I like it better when he talks in his videos.
Righteous job. Thanks for sharing this with us.
This is why I bought a new control arm assembly with new bushings and ball joint.
Whole new control arm with bushings installed from Moog or any other reputable brand is around $60-$80. The bushings alone from dealer would have cost me $70 so I just bought a whole new arm and installed. Much easier and same price.
Agreed that swapping out the whole assembly is a fast, and often cost effective way to refreshing all the control arm components at once. But that is not what this video is about. This video is about changing out the bushings. This video presents an approach, without compromise, of changing out the bushings. The video does exactly what the title says.
How did it hold up?, I was looking at that to, balljoints and bushings are a pain
How is your moog? I just got front moog control arms. Just Haven't had a chance to install yet. Old one is a pain to remove
Moog usually does a solid job. This said, I had the rear bushings fail on both sides on the original Subaru control arm assemblies, after only 40,000 miles on a 2013 Outback. And the current Subaru control arm assembly for our cars has a BIGGER rear bushing than the original. The factory arms were $99 each from McKenna Subaru here in Southern California. The new rear bushing on the $99 control arm assembly is a factory up-grade on the previous part. The front bushing and the ball joint are typically good for 80,000 or better, depending on where you drive. But that rear bushing from 2013 is weak, and has been superseded by a stronger part. This might be a consideration in shopping for Moog or Subaru. The 'street' price for factory is about $20 higher per side than after market. Does the Moog have a bigger than original-stock bushing in back? I don't know. They are often good at spotting this kind of thing. I do know that the current factory part has a strengthened rear bushing.
"But tools" he says
I replaced the lower control arm on my 2010 Legacy sedan yesterday. I tightened the pinch bolt on the ball joint to specs while the car was still on jack stands with the wheel removed. I then did the same thing with the rear bushing bolt. I was looking at the FSM which asked for the rear and front bushing bolts to be tightened after the suspension was loaded. Since I could not get under the car to tighten the front bushing when the wheel was on the ground, I tried using ramps, but the space was still too cramped. I took the wheel off, put the car on jack stands and used another floor jack under the control arm under the ball joint to barely lift the front-end of the car off the pinch weld on which it was resting. I did not lift the car all the way off the jack stand on the pinch weld. I then tightened the front bushing bolt. I am wondering if I should have tightened the rear bushing bolt at the same time instead of doing it while the suspension was not on load and also wondering if I should have lifted the car off the pinch weld jack stand completely before tightening the front bushing bolt.
sure wish I bought the lower control arm assembly, with the ball joint & bushings pre-mounted... what's that press and dies you're using?
Great repair man
Thank you. 👍
i just want to see MrSubaru's monthly SnapOn bill..... lol
Haha 😂
He buys expensive tools for a one man show. Seems kinda wasteful
@@infotechsailor
I buy the best tools I can, take care of them and they serve me well for a lifetime. I hate using cheap shit. I have probably close to $80,000 in Snap-On tools and if something breaks, the truck comes to me once a week and I get a new one. I don't think Snap-On is always the best tool, though.
Lifetime warranty baby
What are the driver/ socket sizes to push out the front control arm bushings on a 2005 Outback. Also, what size cups do I need to catch the bushings. I also need to replace my trailing arms . Would you please forward those sizes . Thanking you in advance.
Very helpful, I just replaced everything in my driveway. Maybe I missed it in the video, but shouldn't the front bushing bolts be torqued on the ground? In other words with the suspension loaded at ride height?
Great job! Clear and to the point. Thank you!
I still like the videos where you talk about what you’re doing rather than doing it all in silence and adding “subtitles” of each step. I’m sure the written step by step is helpful for those following along step by step in their driveway, and the torque specs in writing are clear. So, I can see the usefulness of that. It’s just weird (sort of eerie) to me hearing you work on the car but not speak. Just my opinion.
(Maybe that’s another reason I often talk to myself while I’m working....) 😆
Those wheels ❤️
I have a 2006 imperza 2.5i sedan would this be exact same replacement. Both fronts👍
I never thought Id see a press machine in the house.
Do you Two presses one in garage. Other in house during winter.
I maybe try get a table benchtop press.
Have you put an engine on stand in the house too.
I think I just had a coronary. Just bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT. Drove it 50 miles and got a CEL. 2 codes. P0171 and IDK the other one. Brought it to a mechanic. Said something about o2 sensor. And needed the front lower control arm bushing rear bushing replaced. They spent 5 hours on the car today addressing the CEL's. Now in order to finish car needs to put in the sensor and bushing and said it would be $1500!!!!!!
That cannot be right.
$130 for a new O2 sensor, and 15 minutes to install it. And no more than a few hours of labor to do the LCA bushings + parts.
Didn’t expect to be here with a 2011 Impreza 2.5i with only 112k miles but Ig I’m here
My legacy has 68k KM so
No torqing in ride height like ford fusion/mazda 6?
My 2012 outback needs new FL contol arm bushings, but the shop is suggesting that I replace the entire control arm. Are they just trying to take me for money, or would it be worth it just to swap it all out?
Let me say completed assembly for a pair run $144.95. to me...thats the way to go. Ball joint, front bushing and rear "puck" already installed on the arm....bingo! Both front sides! My 07 outback.
Thanks for all the great videos bro! I have 2006 subaru legacy 2.5gt spec b. I removed the control arms had new bushings pressed in and am having a hard time find the torque specs. Any help would be greatly appreciate! Thanks again for your work on the videos they've helped me immensely
2006 LGT should be the same specs as this 2005 Legacy.
@@MrSubaru1387 perfect thank you so much bro! And thanks again for all your videos
Thanks bro for your videos
You're welcome 👍🏻
I just ordered the parts to do this same job on my 2011 Foz
Great video, the question I notice you did not put a load on the new lower control arm before you torque the bolts?
Other video stayed put a load on the control arm (ride high) before final torque.
Yes, you're supposed to.
Bought to you by the power of mime. Nice Vid.
Is there an alternative to not having a press?
Thanks for posting! Where are you placing the jack to lift the front of the car?
I am starting to tackle the suspension on my 2004 (2nd gen) Outback. Would this guide also work for 2nd gen Outbacks?
Thank you. Couldn't find any 08-14 wrx videos but this looks similar
I’m trying to chase down a clunking gremlin on my 09FXT all of my suspension parts look great but I did notice that these bushings didn’t look so great. What would be the symptoms? I appreciate the help
You should make a video of how to put on shocks for a subaru
Damn man! Loving the wheels!!
When reinstalling the arm, do I have to "Jack it up" to make sure it is set into place? Also does the vehicle have to be on its own weight to torque
Quick question, as this work is coming up on my subaru. Should I pre-load the control arm before torquing it down? Thanks!
Do you have to remove the swat bar links? It looks like you can just do the bushings without doing anything else aside from removing the wheel
Solid video
Superb work. My main Subaru dealer ( UK ) is replacing all 4 front bushings on my 2014 Forester XT. They advise 1.8 hours per side. Sound about right ?
Just curious, did you start the video with the driver side, but ending it with the passenger side?
What are your thoughts on poly bushings?
Here are the part model numbers so you can copy/paste them:
OE Rear Bushing: 20204AG01B
OE Bushing: 20204AG04B
How does this differ on 2000-04 cars? Firestone says my inside bushing is 'misaligned' causing a knock sometimes... reccomendations?
Great video, although I was in pain thinking of you lying/kneeling on the gravel! Is there a way to remove/install the bushings if you don't have a press?
Awesome tutorial ,Good bless you :)
Hi. Just a curious question. Is it possible to just change the bushings without removing the control arm completely from the car? I have a 2006 Subaru Outback L L Bean Edition and it’s time to change the bushings. Also, I love watching your very helpful videos!
9:52 The 'joint' is haunted!
Im stuck in the bushing remove/ replace tool.
Dont want to break the bank.
Any tips for a treeshade diy 'er?
Awesome video! Going to do mine soon, maybe next week. Likely all control arm bushes together with the wheel hub assembly. After a moderate curb bump my wheel makes humming noise, and bushing is completely torn off. Very helpful watch. Just wish you included part numbers in the description for easier copy/paste :) In any case, Mucho Appreciado!
One more thing, what did you use as a jacking up point?
Sure would be nice to have one of those big yellow presses. . .
Do some control arms have vulcanized bushings?
Thanks for this just about to replace them in my 2007 outback.
so you have a press, but didn't know how to replace bushings before now?
You're welcome. 👍
Just got this done in my 2008 Impreza @ 90,000KM from the dealer. AU$250 Labour and AU$170 In parts (2 bushings $80 each). It's a lot of work.
Where did you get those fancy press tools?
Not safe to use jack stands alone on soil. Place something like wood with a wider surface area
Did you torque the bushings at curb weight I have to do this on my rear control arms and am just curious if and how I would do that?
Jack under the lower control arm. Load the suspension.
Getting the control arm off of the ball joint stud was tough and I used a ball joint separator. Can I use the same ball joint if using a ball joint separator on the ball joint stud or does it weaken it?
Great video! Just wondering if there is anyway to swap the bushing without the machine?
Yes, it’s basically the same cups that you use with the press but a long bolt with a ball bearing that you tighten the heck out of, I don’t know about Subarus but Honda you can only replace those compliance bushings once and we put a big yellow dot on the control arm to let the next tech knows , it has has been changed before and you have to replace the control arm, After market control arms are not much more than the bushings so if you don’t have a press and tools I would just change the whole control arm.
What did he use to extract the bushing?
Yeah it ended up buying a kit from Harbor Freight you didn't have the right cup size so I went to Tractor Supply got a socket it was a little thick so I bought a third lower control arm bushing hollowed it out and use that sleeve work like a champ my problem is I couldn't get the old bushing out without fighting it really hard and I finally got it out and I'll put the new one in Zipcar down on the ground I actually said it back on ramps I pulled it up on wraps because I knew I had to preload the suspension and check it out put it on the ramps and now four days later the control arm bushing is coming out the top WTF
Any suggestions? Having a heck of a time getting the ball joint and knuckle separated.
what bushing removal kit did you use? Can i buy it on amazon
I used a 2 3/8 wholesaw to take out the bushing.
Auto part stores have a lease/borrow program where you can use tools like this for free.
How similar is the process for a 03 impreza? Fucking awesome video btw, 100% of the work show clearly and no other nonsense
The 03 will have a completly different set up. That said, the front bushing is similar, but the rear is a bolt on for the 03, so, an easier job.
Perfect timing. My 04 Forester XT needs lower control arms. Is that something an average guy like me can do? Chiltons say you also have to take off subframe to do the job, is that true? My dealer wants $695 to install them, I buy the parts, which I get from Subaru dealer online cheaper. I have average set of tools and do the work on the street in front of house. Learned a lot from watching these vids. Thanks.
Not sure if the Forester has an extra subframe over the control arms like the WRX does. Possible. If it has the subframe it will be more challenging, but should still be do-able.
Хорошая работа. Все доступно и понятно.
Curious as to what press you are using and if it's an affordable tool for DIYers?
I've subscribed a while now and have been using your tutorials to help save myself a few dollars. Thank you for what you do!
I've two quick questions:
One, where do you find service manuals online? My local dealer never has these. I want to ensure I'm torquing correctly.
Two, how do I know when the stabiliser end links are bad? What do I look / feel for?
jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
The older model's joints will be visibly cracked, worn, loose. The nearly links, that use spherical joints, will usually have torn boots, looseness in the joint, when pulling with a prybar lightly, and you'll be hearing some knocking/thudding from the front suspension.
How tall are the bushings? Will a 6 inch jaw press from Harbor Freight work?
What if you don’t have press machine? How you going remove the bushing?
Great vid. Got a quote for 440 for right control arm bushing. Going to tackle it on my own. The only problem i see is that i dont have the equipment to press it out. Any ideas? Thanks a bunch.
You can burn the rubber out then cut the metal inner band with a hacksaw for removal, don't recommend. You can drill the rubber and then cut. There are several ways to remove them without a press. Reinstalling without a press is more tricky. I've seen people drive them in with a hammer, but don't really recommend that either. Best bet would be to remove the old bushings and take the new bushings amd control arms to a shop and ask them the charge to press them in for you.
Oreilly or other autoparts stores will lend tools for free. (You pay for them up front but if you bring them back they give you your money back). Ask for the tool loan program. Usually they have this with specialty tools like bearing presses.
Pretty sure i used a large socket when i did them on my civic.. then used the old ones to install the new ones
mr subaru can you help me please . I have replaced drive shaft on my Forester but i have a juddering noise
I llike tools too, but the Hydraulic press inside the home lol.. next" you be turning your rooms into machine shops
I got the rear and front struts replaced on my 02 Subaru Outback Wagon VDC, but there are still squeaking sounds which were still there before I replaced the struts. Do you know if it is the bushings on the control arms and stablizer bar?
Great video, he looks after his tooling, I like the hydraulic press being inside the house. Is that the bedroom, living room? :)
Living room. House had been used for storage. In renovation now.
@@MrSubaru1387 Do you need a hydraulic press to remove/insert the bushings? What other options do I have?
3:00 if that sucker doesn't come off as easily as that, a brass-faced snap in a pneumatic rivet gun will have it off in 5 seconds flat. Same goes for tie rod end.
what made you do oem rubber and no poly. my 2012 impreza needs new bushing and its autocross, but also my daily. I don't know if I should do oem, delrin, or poly bushing.
The Spec B has aluminum LCAs is the process any different? I ask as I can tell you the bilsteins on the Spec B are impossible to replace using a standard spring compressor and can even be trouble with a proper spring compressor.
Great Video, All WORK and No BS....I am Told that the shimmy in my Legacy front end when braking , which is DEFINITELY NOT Brake Related, is Most likely caused by warn lower Bushings, can you confirm this ?
Usually a shake under braking is warped rotors. If you know for a fact the rotors aren't warped, then control arm bushings are a likely cause. Any worn components in the front suspension could cause issue. Be sure to check for play in the wheel bearings, tie rods, and ball joints as well.
Thank You So Much for the Rapid Response. You are a True Professional Sir. I Subed
You're welcome. Thank you, welcome to the channel! 👍
What size socket did you use to press the bushings in and out?
I'd really like to know that as well.
This is an old video but I'm hoping you can answer my question. Would you remember the socket size you used to press out the 2nd bushing in the video?
Sorry, I don't off hand.
Alright, I appreciate you answering
Hi my friend this bushing is original subaru?
Yes
Where did you get those sexy bushing drivers? Are they called something special that I can search for?