Funny, exact same problem for me, that same nut in the back on mine was corroded to the point that my 17mm wouldn't grab, so I put a 17mm equivalent extractor on it, put a 1 inch box end on the extractor, put a 17mm socket on a power bar on the bolt end, added a piece of pipe to the power bar for more leverage, grabbed the sway bar with my left hand, the coil spring with my right hand, pushed with both feet on the power bar and pipe, several times, moving equivalent one ratchet click each time, until it finally with a bang broke free from the rust. But the bolt was in great shape on the inside, and the extractor grabbed and held on to that nut like you wouldn't believe! Good to go! No torches, no 3 days of filing in the worst spot possible.
My 2005 outback right now needs the right upper control arm needs replaced. I'm wondering how much the dealer would cost me if I took it to them for replacement.
Ay up, nice vid. Its the bolt in the inner lateral bolt thats giving me grief. The nuts off but the bolt wont budge and that brought me here via a search. I just need to know if its seized or has to be in a certain spot to come out. Its the adjustable cammed bolt. Help
Hey unfortunately I never took the lateral links off but if you can rotate it freely it's likely it's not seized. I don't know if it needs to be at a certain angle but if you can rotate it I'd suggest trying to "unscrew" it even though it's not really screwed into anything. That worked well on my front camber adjustment bolt, which did not need to be in a certain spot to come out
I have an Outback with some wicked negative camber. How do they get this way when you can't adjust them in the first place? Is it just work upper link bushings?
@@RPGarage Nope. Not lowered. The only thing I can think is worn out shocks, so those are being replaced today. We will see if that plays a factor. I will let you know what it does. Thanks!
Any chance you could run through opening up the rear area to get to the electronics? - Tried and failed so badly with that. Ended up taking it to a garage, who ran cable from that to the front- and NOTHING ELSE... My rear numberplate lights are also dead- is there a fuse for that? Apologies on the long request ;/
Hey sure what specifically were you trying to do with the electronics there? Are you thinking rear view camera or something else? For the number plate lights I assume you probably tried new bulbs already right?
@@RPGarage wanted to add the camera myself, failed at opening the rear area inside to feed cables through. Be cool if there was a guide at getting to that area. I changed bulbs to brand new but no luck, so I assume a short with the cabling or a fuse? Sucks that the garage kinda left it at a half assed job instead of offering to finish it. :/. Would rather fix it diy than go back, you know?
@@BirdFluJapan damn I just saw this comment again and realized I could have done a video on this, I installed a rear view cam about 3 months ago but didn't make a vid. If I get back in there I'll try and record it.
Hello! Yes I will be replacing my stereo soon with a double DIN and installing an STI steering wheel like I did with my last car. I will probably try to wire up the steering controls at that point. Maybe in the next month or so
Worn rear subframe bushings on one side or the other can cause rear camber issues. Indeed, if one has the time, pulling the entire subframe assembly isn't as daunting as it may seem. You can do so much more, much easier, with the entire subframe out of the car. Nickle and dime repairs end up being more trouble over time.
I've never greased the exterior of slide in bushings. Like what Whiteline offers. There seems to be conflicting info from Whiteline, themselves. Your instructions, that came with the kit, seemed to indicate to grease the bushing/control arm. And yet, from Whiteline's website: "Grease has been supplied in the kits where required and must be used to optimise bush performance and durability. Grease has been formulated from a reinforced No. 2 lithium complex base and selected additives with molybdenum disulphide for mechanical stability, extreme pressure qualities for extended life and a high melting or drop point be applied to the bores and outer flanges of all bushes and components - do not grease the outside surfaces of bushes and components."
I think the "outside surfaces" here refers to the "face" of the bushings - the parts that are visible when the bushing is set in place. Think about it, grease is included in the kit and is there to reduce the friction between the bushing and the control arm as the bushing rotates inside the arm. A) how could reducing that friction be a bad thing, and B) what else could that grease possibly be for?
Thanks Mason. The car was completely stock so I'm not sure why it was -1.5. The rear end sags a bit like most legacies so that might have caused it but to be honest the car was driving fine, I only did this to satisfy alignment requirements for the province
how long do the rear ball joint/bushes on the rear arms tend to last? I have a Legacy 2012 wagon and it's constant squeaking... im wondering if it's just the bushes/joints worn now. Only done 100k kms... thanks!
My 03 squeaks (no more after I finish... the passenger side...) too. I got under it and tried wiggling everything while on jack stands. Those arms EASILY twisted, passenger side especially. The bushing was just rattling around!
Funny, exact same problem for me, that same nut in the back on mine was corroded to the point that my 17mm wouldn't grab, so I put a 17mm equivalent extractor on it, put a 1 inch box end on the extractor, put a 17mm socket on a power bar on the bolt end, added a piece of pipe to the power bar for more leverage, grabbed the sway bar with my left hand, the coil spring with my right hand, pushed with both feet on the power bar and pipe, several times, moving equivalent one ratchet click each time, until it finally with a bang broke free from the rust. But the bolt was in great shape on the inside, and the extractor grabbed and held on to that nut like you wouldn't believe! Good to go! No torches, no 3 days of filing in the worst spot possible.
Hey thanks for posting, it’s always bothered me the rear of my cars wheels were always pointed inwards, and this looks like it’ll do the trick
My 2005 outback right now needs the right upper control arm needs replaced. I'm wondering how much the dealer would cost me if I took it to them for replacement.
So exactly how did you get the inner bolt out to get the the control arm off?
Any squeaky coming from the polyurethane?
Ay up, nice vid. Its the bolt in the inner lateral bolt thats giving me grief. The nuts off but the bolt wont budge and that brought me here via a search. I just need to know if its seized or has to be in a certain spot to come out. Its the adjustable cammed bolt. Help
Hey unfortunately I never took the lateral links off but if you can rotate it freely it's likely it's not seized. I don't know if it needs to be at a certain angle but if you can rotate it I'd suggest trying to "unscrew" it even though it's not really screwed into anything. That worked well on my front camber adjustment bolt, which did not need to be in a certain spot to come out
I have an Outback with some wicked negative camber. How do they get this way when you can't adjust them in the first place? Is it just work upper link bushings?
is it lowered? that would instantly change the camber. otherwise the only thing that would change it is toe setting out of whack
@@RPGarage Nope. Not lowered. The only thing I can think is worn out shocks, so those are being replaced today. We will see if that plays a factor. I will let you know what it does. Thanks!
Any chance you could run through opening up the rear area to get to the electronics? - Tried and failed so badly with that. Ended up taking it to a garage, who ran cable from that to the front- and NOTHING ELSE... My rear numberplate lights are also dead- is there a fuse for that? Apologies on the long request ;/
Hey sure what specifically were you trying to do with the electronics there? Are you thinking rear view camera or something else? For the number plate lights I assume you probably tried new bulbs already right?
@@RPGarage wanted to add the camera myself, failed at opening the rear area inside to feed cables through. Be cool if there was a guide at getting to that area.
I changed bulbs to brand new but no luck, so I assume a short with the cabling or a fuse? Sucks that the garage kinda left it at a half assed job instead of offering to finish it. :/. Would rather fix it diy than go back, you know?
@@BirdFluJapan damn I just saw this comment again and realized I could have done a video on this, I installed a rear view cam about 3 months ago but didn't make a vid. If I get back in there I'll try and record it.
Hey, can you please do tutorial audio steering wheel controls from wrx wheel
Hello! Yes I will be replacing my stereo soon with a double DIN and installing an STI steering wheel like I did with my last car. I will probably try to wire up the steering controls at that point. Maybe in the next month or so
Worn rear subframe bushings on one side or the other can cause rear camber issues. Indeed, if one has the time, pulling the entire subframe assembly isn't as daunting as it may seem. You can do so much more, much easier, with the entire subframe out of the car. Nickle and dime repairs end up being more trouble over time.
I've never greased the exterior of slide in bushings. Like what Whiteline offers. There seems to be conflicting info from Whiteline, themselves. Your instructions, that came with the kit, seemed to indicate to grease the bushing/control arm. And yet, from Whiteline's website: "Grease has been supplied in the kits where required and must be used to optimise bush performance and durability. Grease has been formulated from a reinforced No. 2 lithium complex base and selected additives with molybdenum disulphide for mechanical stability, extreme pressure qualities for extended life and a high melting or drop point be applied to the bores and outer flanges of all bushes and components - do not grease the outside surfaces of bushes and components."
I think the "outside surfaces" here refers to the "face" of the bushings - the parts that are visible when the bushing is set in place. Think about it, grease is included in the kit and is there to reduce the friction between the bushing and the control arm as the bushing rotates inside the arm. A) how could reducing that friction be a bad thing, and B) what else could that grease possibly be for?
Great video; thanks for posting. What caused your rear camber to be -1.5 in the first place? Other modifications?
Thanks Mason. The car was completely stock so I'm not sure why it was -1.5. The rear end sags a bit like most legacies so that might have caused it but to be honest the car was driving fine, I only did this to satisfy alignment requirements for the province
Is that control arm you changed the one that has to do with camber adjustment?
Both upper and lower can control camber if you use the whiteline kta124 kit but in this video I'm just dealing with the upper control arm bushing
If the inner bushing is shot it could affect the camber also. Which was the case I. Mine
how long do the rear ball joint/bushes on the rear arms tend to last? I have a Legacy 2012 wagon and it's constant squeaking... im wondering if it's just the bushes/joints worn now. Only done 100k kms... thanks!
My 03 squeaks (no more after I finish... the passenger side...) too. I got under it and tried wiggling everything while on jack stands. Those arms EASILY twisted, passenger side especially. The bushing was just rattling around!