Being a Powersports Mechanic, I generally do not like to work on cars. But, I have to say, after rebuilding my daughter's toasted 2005 Forester, I think Subaru's are really cool, and pretty fun to work on. I like them a bunch... Your video's are great!
I recently did some work to my 06 legacy GT, did both front axles, knuckles, hub and bearings, inner and outer tie rods, brake calipers, control arms and ball joints, all because I bought an old rusty POS that had leaking front axle boots. It wasn't bad, but now I feel confident when driving it.
I recently swapped a wheel bearing on my 2013 outback 3.6 using a cheap punch set from HarborFreight and a 5lb hammer. Loosen the four nuts on the back of the wheel bearing assembly a few turns. Then use the largest punch in the kit and tap all four sequentially. Came right off.
Fml. I am on a 2010 Outback and done everything on the front left corner, bushes, pads, rotor, bearing, cv axle and seal, inner tie rod, sway bar links. Still there at medium to fast speed when slaloming down the road.
Your videos are so helpful. I'm in the middle of swapping out the engine and transmission on my daughter's outback. Biggest automotive project I've ever taken on. Seeing light at the end of the tunnel though.
I found an amateur video here on RUclips on a Subie where both wheel bearing and axle were replaced, and interestingly they found that once the wheel bearing was out, there was enough clearance to pull the axle straight out! They didn't need to remove the lower ball joint because the axle came straight out the hole in the knuckle. Have you ever done it that way? Is there an inner dust shield that needs to be replaced if you do that? If so, I wonder if a new dust shield could be installed without tipping the knuckle back to gain clearance....
Amazing you posted this video, I had a 2017 Subaru Impreza with 40K on it and started to notice a humming sound which varied with speed. I took it to a dealer and found the left rear wheel bearings were failing which would mean changing the whole hub as the bearings are pressed in and part of the hub or so I was told. Lucky for me I had the extended warranty and all parts and labor were covered ! THEN 3 months later the right rear bearings went out and the same repair had to be performed ?????? I have never had wheel bearing go out in any car I've owned ( 45 ) and started to wonder if quality control was slipping at Subaru. I traded that Impreza for a new 2020 and have had no problems with wheel bearings since. Was or is this a issue with Subaru as the dealer told me " you must be driving on rough roads ". LOL
My 2018 Forester had the rear right bearing replaced at 47k miles. Just started humming, the mech could hardly confirm it was going. To be fair, we are in Cleveland Ohio, where a few years ago the city started reimbursement for damage caused by their lack of pothole repairs, and we have salted roads up here because people are d*mb*ss*s and don't know how to drive, so, everyone gets a rusted car for a decade.
@@OutsideTheTargetDemographic Ha...good to know you haven't had to do them again almost 30K later 🤣. That comforts me. We love the Crosstrek otherwise and it's required very little.
Oh Man, Video quality has really improved over the years. Id love to see some old videos "revisited" with more quality and details. (of course they are good still)
I always replace both sides at the same time, my reasoning is if one side has gone the other side can't be far behind, if they're both done the same mileage.
Great video, especially appreciate including the torque for each bolt & nut. I just did the job on a 2018 Outback with 99K miles. Notes: * You need a puller for the hub (as shown in this video). I could have hammered until the end of time and it wouldn't have come out. * I ended up freeing the spindles and pressing out the hubs with a shop press. It required detaching 2 bolts at the strut and two ball joint studs. The upper strut bolt needs to be marked so it can be clocked exactly the same when reinstalled. My fork splitter damaged the spindle's lower ball joint, so it had to be replaced. * Getting the lower ball joint out of the spindle is a bitch. Neither one would come out without me driving a chisel into the slit to spread the spindle where it surrounds the joint. Even after that it was a big struggle to get it out. I cleaned the pocket and put a layer of anti-seize to make it easier for the next person doing the job. * My new axles didn't come with differential seals. Those had to be purchased separately. Oddly, O'Reilly said the driver and passenger side seals were different part numbers - 710724 (driver) and 710739 (passenger). They looked identical. * A slide hammer with the 3-fingered attachment worked great to remove the old seals. * I tapped in the new seals using a long rod, .25" thick with a flat face. Just worked my way around and around the outside of the seal until the rod was hitting the diff case. * No tool needed to either pull the axle or install a new one. A good yank pulled it out and a good shove put the new one all the way in. * The old hubs were definitely bad - in one full rotation, part of the turn was easy and part was MUCH firmer.
The seals are different. If you look closely they are directional. One is marked L and one R. There are marks around the inside that are facing different directions.
Enjoy you video. When would you replace a lower control arm? My dealership says mine has split in the rubber bushing and asked if I hear a clunking sound ...but I don't, it sounds smooth...especially when braking all good. Wanted to have your opinion on the subject. Same model as this one.
Doing all 4 ....uh...8 on my 17 White outtie like yous. THANKS for the video. 192K miles. Subie parts deals 2x more than Timkins on Rok auto. Help us keep these rigs on the road.
This is a very helpful video. I need to do this on a 2014 Outback in Idaho where we use salt on the roads. I expect it to be pretty seized in the knuckle. Where did you get the tool for pulling the hub assembly?
My 2018 crosstrek ive had to replace all 4 wheel hub assemblies. Im pretty sure subaru used potmetal bearings when they made these. Lmfao. Every single one has been a bear to get out. The crosstrek is southern owned its entire life and it hasnt really seen any snow.
Okay I could really use some advice! I have a 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon with only 31,000 original miles on it. It had sat for over 10 years when I got it. Put around $1200 in it to get it running it only had 15,000 at the time. I’ve been driving it for 3 years with no issues until yesterday. I replaced battery and alternator now I’m not getting any power can’t even jumpstart.
If you only hear roaring and not clicking, would just the hub assembly be good enough? Is there a reason to replace both at the same time when only one is needed?
Hi! I had the same issue. Had huge clicking noise when steering fully turned and accelerating. Got both the front axles changed. Though the clicking noise is gone under normal acceleration when steering fully turned to either side, but it still gives me clicking noise when accerlerated hard. My mechanic told me it might be a transmission issue. Is he right?
I have a 2013 3.6r with about 125k and I've been trying to figure out if the two front axles are stock, remans, or aftermarket. Are the inside cups always green on genuine ones, even remans? Mine are dull black, but I read some of the remans are sandblasted and no longer green. 🤔 Have a bit of a shudder when I get up to 60 mph and even a shake in neutral when I rev it to 2000-3000 RPM. It'd be nice to rule out aftermarket axle issues.
I have the exact same outback in the same color, wondering if you can do a video on changing the rear hatch window seal, they all seem to shrink and pull away wondering if there’s a way to replace it without pulling all the trim from the inside? Thanks for your videos. They’re a lot of help.
My 2015 needs some rear cv axles done, one is a tiny bit loose and the other seems finne? Probably best to do both at the same time? Thanks so much for the video, big big help!!!!
@@Thisoldhiker He is in a different climate there, but in the NE, most mechanics will replace both at the same time. Up here, if one is bad, the other is going to go soon.
I have a 2006 Outback that I needed to replace the front outer cv boot on. Cant find boots. The tripod joint has no retainer inside the tulip to take it apart to put a boot on.
After viewing your video on replacing a Subaru timing chain it awakened a concern I have about my 2017 Forester with the 2.5 engine. I presently have 71,000 miles on the vehicle which has been well cared for and maintained by my local Subaru dealer. Over the past year I have noticed that I get a loud rattling sound from the engine upon a cold start each day. No problem on subsequent starts. It is verry brief (about 1 second) and is more pronounced in cold weather. It sounds like shaking a metal coffee can with bolts in it. I originally attributed this to the required extremely thin weight synthetic oil used. The fact that I have gone 5 years without hearing this and only have about 1 more year on my extended warranty has me anxious about the possibility of potentially facing a very expensive repair in the future. I have mentioned this to my Service Rep who minimized it. Do you think I have any basis for my concern it might be related to the timing change? Thanks, Ron
doubtful. Probably the welds on your exhaust heat shields are starting to break apart. worm clamps and stainless steel wool will fix. Had this happen on my legacy. Very irritating sounds
Likely the timing chain tensioner is causing chain rattle on startup until oil pressure hits the inside of the tensioner. Little experiment. One morning, cold. Try a clear flood crank to build the oil pressure. Then start the engine as normal, if no rattle, the chain tensioner(s) are confirmed as the source.
You ever have the CV retainer clip stay in the differential? That's what happened last night on the rear of my 2012 Outback. I wondered why the new CV wasn't going in.
My new hobby... Fixing my car. Which costs more than having dogs and costs more than being female. My step uncle replaced my axle for me and didn't do all these steps. I'm worried i have to replace it again as it wasn't measured and i hear a grinding noise that i thought was the brakes but it could be the axle. 😢.
Hey robert, i did the wheel bearings on a 2015 subaru forester and now the car is in a limp mode? The Check Engine Light, the Traction Control, the Hill Assist and the ABD lights came on? Initially it gave a Dynamic Control Error
Watched your video and decided to do the job myself. Maybe I should of sent the Subaru to the mechanic. I replaced the hub assembly and the cv axle. I test drove it and it makes a loud sound when I change from reverse to drive. Maybe I didn’t push the cv axle in all the way. Some help please.
Thank you so much for the video...your videos have save me a lot of money...could you please record better detalied angles when installing part??....again...tysm.
I have a 2016 forester I have now put 2 wheel bearings in my left rear. Now 8 months later I’m humming again, I’m wondering if the reason I’m burning through bearings is because the knuckle may be out of round ever so slightly that yes the assembly will fit but causes part failure. I am not buying OEM bc it went bad once why expect it to not go bad again. Any idea what it may be.
I always do axles in pairs. My 220k 17 Outback is in the middle of its 200k ish refurb. Only one wheel bearing is original, all the rest replaced. The RF has bee replaced twice. My vacation repairs will be replacing the LF axle, plugs, transmission fluid and filter, TC lock actuator, and a muffler. Then see how far it goes from here
Wow this was so easy, I have 2019 outback and got hit by a car I was able to replacement everything but cv axle is stucked. I used cv axle removal and and pry bar nothing works. I ended uo just replacing the boot and regressed it. Any thoughts that?
I just had my 2014 Outback in for scheduled 90,000 mile service at the dealer. I now need new hubs which are developing a hum which indicates bearings going bad. I was quoted $1355.00 to replace. Is this a reasonable price? Is 90k miles typical? I really appreciate your videos which helps make me a much more informed consumer.
Yet another good video . What's the status on your shop? I do recall at one time you were going to be building one with a lift. Is that still the plan?
I own a 2002 Impreza RS sport wagon with a blown 2.5L SOHC engine. Is there any advantage of replacing it with a 2.0L, or should I replace it with a 2.5?
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you was wondering. I have had a lot of problems with OEM parts with other companies mainly Ford Chevy and especially Chrysler even Toyota I gave up on there parts try to stay with aftermarket brands I have had good luck with. Years ago when Toyota parts were mostly Japanese made they lasted sometimes I find American made that's good quality but seems so rare anymore. I haven't done much work on Subaru other than my son's 08 legacy and so far I like the car and it's so much easier to work on not a big fan of the electronics on it had some issues that turned out to be just the battery even those its seems still good but so far the new one isn't causing it to stall when he puts it into gear but it was a intermittent problem so not sure yet if it was the problem yet but hopefully lol love your videos and thank you for replying!!!!!!!!!
I would just like to point out that I was not able to successfully remove my hub assembly. After much effort with a slide hammer, I managed to get half of the wheel hub out. The other half would not budge. I now having to replace the entire wheel spindle. #rustfrompast
I have this problem in a 2015 Legacy I just bought. Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have both front sides replaced at the dealership? Ball park estimate Thanks
Being a Powersports Mechanic, I generally do not like to work on cars. But, I have to say, after rebuilding my daughter's toasted 2005 Forester, I think Subaru's are really cool, and pretty fun to work on. I like them a bunch... Your video's are great!
I recently did some work to my 06 legacy GT, did both front axles, knuckles, hub and bearings, inner and outer tie rods, brake calipers, control arms and ball joints, all because I bought an old rusty POS that had leaking front axle boots. It wasn't bad, but now I feel confident when driving it.
I love watching your videos so I can imagine what it’s like to work on a vehicle with no rust. 😂 I’m from the rust belt (Massachusetts)
Im also in Mass and am dreading doing my Legacy rear hubs🤦🏻♂️
I recently swapped a wheel bearing on my 2013 outback 3.6 using a cheap punch set from HarborFreight and a 5lb hammer. Loosen the four nuts on the back of the wheel bearing assembly a few turns. Then use the largest punch in the kit and tap all four sequentially. Came right off.
great idea
Always great to see the tools to make the job a little easier!
that's a great parts site, I have used them for a year now: timing belt & pulleys, water pump & thermostat, and front hubs, bushings, CV boots.
I hope you didn't get stung by that hornet that was on your arm!! Great video as usual. (13:44 mark)
Man I was sweating bullets I thought to myself. Oh shit!
Luckily no. Didn’t realize it was there until I was editing the video! 😂
lol, less than 5 min into your video and I had what I needed to continue replacing my rear wheel bearing! Thank you!
And after a brief test drive, you discover the rumbling sound was coming from the rear all along. :D
yup, check/do rears first.
Fml. I am on a 2010 Outback and done everything on the front left corner, bushes, pads, rotor, bearing, cv axle and seal, inner tie rod, sway bar links. Still there at medium to fast speed when slaloming down the road.
Luckily no. lol
@@JasonLunnon That sounds like a lot of work and a workout. I feel like Subaru should buy your wrenching clothes.
That WASP was lining up for a good sting. You lucked out on that one. love your videos.
Goddamn white Anglo-Saxon protestants...
Yeah. Didn’t realize it was there until I edited the video!!! 😂😂😂
You could hear it coming.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 the hornet or wasp was just checking in 😅
Your videos are so helpful. I'm in the middle of swapping out the engine and transmission on my daughter's outback. Biggest automotive project I've ever taken on. Seeing light at the end of the tunnel though.
I found an amateur video here on RUclips on a Subie where both wheel bearing and axle were replaced, and interestingly they found that once the wheel bearing was out, there was enough clearance to pull the axle straight out! They didn't need to remove the lower ball joint because the axle came straight out the hole in the knuckle. Have you ever done it that way? Is there an inner dust shield that needs to be replaced if you do that? If so, I wonder if a new dust shield could be installed without tipping the knuckle back to gain clearance....
I haven’t. Too aggravating to remove the hub bolts with the axle in place. Would rather pop it out and to the side. lol
Nice job! You make it look so easy! Thanks for the great video!
Amazing you posted this video, I had a 2017 Subaru Impreza with 40K on it and started to notice a humming sound which varied with speed. I took it to a dealer and found the left rear wheel bearings were failing which would mean changing the whole hub as the bearings are pressed in and part of the hub or so I was told. Lucky for me I had the extended warranty and all parts and labor were covered ! THEN 3 months later the right rear bearings went out and the same repair had to be performed ?????? I have never had wheel bearing go out in any car I've owned ( 45 ) and started to wonder if quality control was slipping at Subaru. I traded that Impreza for a new 2020 and have had no problems with wheel bearings since. Was or is this a issue with Subaru as the dealer told me " you must be driving on rough roads ". LOL
My 2018 Forester had the rear right bearing replaced at 47k miles. Just started humming, the mech could hardly confirm it was going.
To be fair, we are in Cleveland Ohio, where a few years ago the city started reimbursement for damage caused by their lack of pothole repairs, and we have salted roads up here because people are d*mb*ss*s and don't know how to drive, so, everyone gets a rusted car for a decade.
@@OutsideTheTargetDemographic 2018 Crosstrek here, just had one (or both, I had both replaced) in the rear go bad at 60K. Disappointing.
@@kazm4g Disappointed for sure. But I'm at 73k miles now, and it's only needed brakes, tires, and gas apart from the bearing. 👍
@@OutsideTheTargetDemographic Ha...good to know you haven't had to do them again almost 30K later 🤣. That comforts me. We love the Crosstrek otherwise and it's required very little.
the rear bearings on Subaru's are weak or undersized. especially when driving tools around.
Ive replaced my cv on the driver's side THREE TIMES NOW. i love the car.. i hate the repairs
aftermarket units, or OEM/branded?
That rotor came off exactly how all of mine do...said nobody ever!!
You are a Ray of Sunshine, compared to other Subaru 'Experts' LOL, as alway's very informative !
Thanks for the video Robert nicely done 👍❤❤. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed.
Great video. The bearing puller assembly was awesome.
daughter has a 15/Forester same issues i did all 4 hubs & axles. done. 14 to 17 subies had cheap quality parts. subi inside info.
not just cheap, they're also cutting weight too much to get better MPG. not just Subaru either, and the Germans are doing it even worse.
Curious if labor rates are lower in the southern/no salt states as there is no rust to battle? Book times are all the same.
I just paid $1000 to get the rear hubs done, outside city limits of Austin, TX
Oh Man, Video quality has really improved over the years. Id love to see some old videos "revisited" with more quality and details. (of course they are good still)
I always replace both sides at the same time, my reasoning is if one side has gone the other side can't be far behind, if they're both done the same mileage.
Cool hub puller, I have the original version of that torque wrench and it still works fine lol
I sure wonder why the engineers are connecting the sway bars to the struts and not the lower control arms anymore?
Great video, especially appreciate including the torque for each bolt & nut. I just did the job on a 2018 Outback with 99K miles. Notes:
* You need a puller for the hub (as shown in this video). I could have hammered until the end of time and it wouldn't have come out.
* I ended up freeing the spindles and pressing out the hubs with a shop press. It required detaching 2 bolts at the strut and two ball joint studs. The upper strut bolt needs to be marked so it can be clocked exactly the same when reinstalled. My fork splitter damaged the spindle's lower ball joint, so it had to be replaced.
* Getting the lower ball joint out of the spindle is a bitch. Neither one would come out without me driving a chisel into the slit to spread the spindle where it surrounds the joint. Even after that it was a big struggle to get it out. I cleaned the pocket and put a layer of anti-seize to make it easier for the next person doing the job.
* My new axles didn't come with differential seals. Those had to be purchased separately. Oddly, O'Reilly said the driver and passenger side seals were different part numbers - 710724 (driver) and 710739 (passenger). They looked identical.
* A slide hammer with the 3-fingered attachment worked great to remove the old seals.
* I tapped in the new seals using a long rod, .25" thick with a flat face. Just worked my way around and around the outside of the seal until the rod was hitting the diff case.
* No tool needed to either pull the axle or install a new one. A good yank pulled it out and a good shove put the new one all the way in.
* The old hubs were definitely bad - in one full rotation, part of the turn was easy and part was MUCH firmer.
The seals are different. If you look closely they are directional. One is marked L and one R. There are marks around the inside that are facing different directions.
Enjoy you video. When would you replace a lower control arm? My dealership says mine has split in the rubber bushing and asked if I hear a clunking sound ...but I don't, it sounds smooth...especially when braking all good. Wanted to have your opinion on the subject. Same model as this one.
Had my 2013 Forester lower control arms & bushes replaced, was giving a horrible steering vibration shudder on bends at highway speeds.
If you bushings are split/cracking, replace the $30 bushings. No sense in replacing the whole control arm.
Will you post the total spent on the car and parts to complete the maintenance and repairs?
Doing all 4 ....uh...8 on my 17 White outtie like yous. THANKS for the video. 192K miles. Subie parts deals 2x more than Timkins on Rok auto. Help us keep these rigs on the road.
This is a very helpful video. I need to do this on a 2014 Outback in Idaho where we use salt on the roads. I expect it to be pretty seized in the knuckle. Where did you get the tool for pulling the hub assembly?
Thank you very much Mr. S.🙌🙌
Does that lisle puller work on rear bearings
?
Likely will need to remove the rear parking brake shoes and other hardware to get a good spot to push against
My 2018 crosstrek ive had to replace all 4 wheel hub assemblies. Im pretty sure subaru used potmetal bearings when they made these. Lmfao. Every single one has been a bear to get out. The crosstrek is southern owned its entire life and it hasnt really seen any snow.
Okay I could really use some advice! I have a 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon with only 31,000 original miles on it. It had sat for over 10 years when I got it. Put around $1200 in it to get it running it only had 15,000 at the time. I’ve been driving it for 3 years with no issues until yesterday. I replaced battery and alternator now I’m not getting any power can’t even jumpstart.
When's the shop coming?
Got quotes out now for concrete and the building. Need to burn the big brush pile and finish grading for the slab.
@mrSubaru1387 Do you think the only good replacement cv axles for Subarus are genuine oem ones?
I’ve heard there is some place in Colorado that makes a heavy duty but personally I’d stick to OEM
I’m only using Subaru genuine axles. Had too many issues with aftermarket axles in the past.
If you only hear roaring and not clicking, would just the hub assembly be good enough? Is there a reason to replace both at the same time when only one is needed?
Always look forward to your videos
Thank you.Pity you don't have the diesel in your area.Would love to see what your opinion of them would be.
Cheers
Hi!
I had the same issue.
Had huge clicking noise when steering fully turned and accelerating.
Got both the front axles changed.
Though the clicking noise is gone under normal acceleration when steering fully turned to either side, but it still gives me clicking noise when accerlerated hard.
My mechanic told me it might be a transmission issue.
Is he right?
BTW its a 2015 legacy and got 266K Kms on it
I have a 2013 3.6r with about 125k and I've been trying to figure out if the two front axles are stock, remans, or aftermarket. Are the inside cups always green on genuine ones, even remans? Mine are dull black, but I read some of the remans are sandblasted and no longer green. 🤔
Have a bit of a shudder when I get up to 60 mph and even a shake in neutral when I rev it to 2000-3000 RPM. It'd be nice to rule out aftermarket axle issues.
I have the exact same outback in the same color, wondering if you can do a video on changing the rear hatch window seal, they all seem to shrink and pull away wondering if there’s a way to replace it without pulling all the trim from the inside? Thanks for your videos. They’re a lot of help.
My 2015 needs some rear cv axles done, one is a tiny bit loose and the other seems finne? Probably best to do both at the same time? Thanks so much for the video, big big help!!!!
That's what happened to me on my 2017 Impreza. Right rear was super load, but when I replaced it I could hear the left side was also groaning.
@@Thisoldhiker He is in a different climate there, but in the NE, most mechanics will replace both at the same time. Up here, if one is bad, the other is going to go soon.
Thanks again for all your content.
No no no did not see what u did man I could not get that off, what did u do man, that was was to easy😢
I have a 2006 Outback that I needed to replace the front outer cv boot on. Cant find boots. The tripod joint has no retainer inside the tulip to take it apart to put a boot on.
Thank you so much for this video. You have been a great help.
You're very welcome!
chillest ive ever seen someone with a bee on their arm
After viewing your video on replacing a Subaru timing chain it awakened a concern I have about my 2017 Forester with the 2.5 engine. I presently have 71,000 miles on the vehicle which has been well cared for and maintained by my local Subaru dealer. Over the past year I have noticed that I get a loud rattling sound from the engine upon a cold start each day. No problem on subsequent starts. It is verry brief (about 1 second) and is more pronounced in cold weather. It sounds like shaking a metal coffee can with bolts in it. I originally attributed this to the required extremely thin weight synthetic oil used. The fact that I have gone 5 years without hearing this and only have about 1 more year on my extended warranty has me anxious about the possibility of potentially facing a very expensive repair in the future. I have mentioned this to my Service Rep who minimized it.
Do you think I have any basis for my concern it might be related to the timing change?
Thanks,
Ron
doubtful. Probably the welds on your exhaust heat shields are starting to break apart. worm clamps and stainless steel wool will fix. Had this happen on my legacy. Very irritating sounds
Check the alternator, my Forester's one was making random noises.
Likely the timing chain tensioner is causing chain rattle on startup until oil pressure hits the inside of the tensioner. Little experiment. One morning, cold. Try a clear flood crank to build the oil pressure. Then start the engine as normal, if no rattle, the chain tensioner(s) are confirmed as the source.
@@blunismo1 Hi Heat Silicone rubber works great for this application too.
@@dougalannh Hmm; That's interesting. I would be under the impression it would just burn off-
You ever have the CV retainer clip stay in the differential? That's what happened last night on the rear of my 2012 Outback. I wondered why the new CV wasn't going in.
My new hobby... Fixing my car. Which costs more than having dogs and costs more than being female. My step uncle replaced my axle for me and didn't do all these steps. I'm worried i have to replace it again as it wasn't measured and i hear a grinding noise that i thought was the brakes but it could be the axle. 😢.
Could you please list the Subaru part number for the axle seal and nut? Is there a difference is part number for front or rear axle seal?
Nicely done. Great content.
Hey robert, i did the wheel bearings on a 2015 subaru forester and now the car is in a limp mode? The Check Engine Light, the Traction Control, the Hill Assist and the ABD lights came on?
Initially it gave a Dynamic Control Error
I'm curious, is it eequired to replace the cv axle along with the hub or is that added precaution? Thanks!
Watched your video and decided to do the job myself. Maybe I should of sent the Subaru to the mechanic. I replaced the hub assembly and the cv axle. I test drove it and it makes a loud sound when I change from reverse to drive.
Maybe I didn’t push the cv axle in all the way. Some help please.
What are the part numbers for the front axle seals? Driving me crazy searching online! I only find seals for rear!
Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for the video...your videos have save me a lot of money...could you please record better detalied angles when installing part??....again...tysm.
I love those torque wrenches can I get the part numbers for both of them?
They’re Snap-on ATECH torque wrenches.
@@MrSubaru1387 Many Thanks
Is this the same process for the rear of the vehicle? I have axle seals leaking and have to pull axle out to get to seal.
I have a 2016 forester I have now put 2 wheel bearings in my left rear. Now 8 months later I’m humming again, I’m wondering if the reason I’m burning through bearings is because the knuckle may be out of round ever so slightly that yes the assembly will fit but causes part failure. I am not buying OEM bc it went bad once why expect it to not go bad again. Any idea what it may be.
Hi, what install tool do you use for the axle seal?
When he popped the ball joint loose was that the bottom (ball) part or the threaded bolt/nut end?
Anyone know what his wheel-hub removal tool is? I should probably get one for my wrx.
Man did you get stung Robert?
Who's robert
Luckily no. Didn’t realize it was there until I edited the video! 😂
Lmao that thing was huge, had to rewind to make sure my eyes worked
I always do axles in pairs. My 220k 17 Outback is in the middle of its 200k ish refurb. Only one wheel bearing is original, all the rest replaced. The RF has bee replaced twice. My vacation repairs will be replacing the LF axle, plugs, transmission fluid and filter, TC lock actuator, and a muffler. Then see how far it goes from here
I have a 2011 outback an tried everything to get the axle part out of the transmission
Great video. I have to bring my car too you . 😮
Wow this was so easy, I have 2019 outback and got hit by a car I was able to replacement everything but cv axle is stucked. I used cv axle removal and and pry bar nothing works. I ended uo just replacing the boot and regressed it. Any thoughts that?
Yup. Roaring from both front bearings. Clicking from both sides on slow tight turns. 13 legacy. Ugh.
I just had my 2014 Outback in for scheduled 90,000 mile service at the dealer. I now need new hubs which are developing a hum which indicates bearings going bad. I was quoted $1355.00 to replace. Is this a reasonable price? Is 90k miles typical? I really appreciate your videos which helps make me a much more informed consumer.
That’s outrageous
Should be about 700
Where can i get the axle seal install tool
Yet another good video . What's the status on your shop? I do recall at one time you were going to be building one with a lift. Is that still the plan?
Uhhh, how long is your pry bar?
fantastic video. Can I ask ? different topic a little . IS 1600$ for diff. mounts and brackets parts and labor. Is that a fair price? Thanks!
Depending on your area, that’s probably about right. The rear diff has to come out and the rear cradle normally needs to be lowered.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you very much for your reply I do enjoy watching your videos.
I own a 2002 Impreza RS sport wagon with a blown 2.5L SOHC engine. Is there any advantage of replacing it with a 2.0L, or should I replace it with a 2.5?
Nice work 👍
Why do the CV axle boot keep ripping/ breaking ? I have replaced 2 axles already. Thank you in advance
U have rear bearings video?
Nice job.❤
Do you sell you project cars?
This one will likely be for sale soon.
I seen the first video and always wondered why he didn’t replace both
Any plans to do the fuel pump? I got 370k on my 15 OB and I think my fuel pump is losing prime. But cant find a walk through for a 5th gen.
All of that took you only 20 minutes? Or did you do some things beyond the video? Just curious, you're so good with these Subies
The video is edited for time, but yes, without fighting rust and filming, I can knock this job out fairly quickly.
@@MrSubaru1387 That's awesome! Thanks for the reply and your videos
Do you have a link to that torque wrench?
Is this the same for a 2018 forester limited?
Sweet video!
Can someone please provide the part number for the passenger side axle seal? I have a leak where the cv axle pushes into the diff casing.
Are Subaru oem parts made in Japan or are they made in china like a lot of oem parts are?
Also it would still be good to use anti seize Incase it ever moves back north wouldn't it?
Japan. No. Not using anti-seize.
@@MrSubaru1387 thank you was wondering. I have had a lot of problems with OEM parts with other companies mainly Ford Chevy and especially Chrysler even Toyota I gave up on there parts try to stay with aftermarket brands I have had good luck with. Years ago when Toyota parts were mostly Japanese made they lasted sometimes I find American made that's good quality but seems so rare anymore. I haven't done much work on Subaru other than my son's 08 legacy and so far I like the car and it's so much easier to work on not a big fan of the electronics on it had some issues that turned out to be just the battery even those its seems still good but so far the new one isn't causing it to stall when he puts it into gear but it was a intermittent problem so not sure yet if it was the problem yet but hopefully lol love your videos and thank you for replying!!!!!!!!!
Is this the Lisle or Jokasi hub remover?
Lisle.
I would just like to point out that I was not able to successfully remove my hub assembly. After much effort with a slide hammer, I managed to get half of the wheel hub out. The other half would not budge. I now having to replace the entire wheel spindle. #rustfrompast
Are Subarus bad about breaking lug bolts?
nope. untrained, low-paid monkeys are.
Not really. People are bad to cross thread and overtorque them, causing more damage/breakage
Discount Tire has broken several (cross thread) of mine. They will fix it though.
@@markstrrator8375all those places break and cross thread studs because they go impact or air tool immediately.
What was the total parts bill?
I hope you did not get stung by your buddy!
I didn’t. Didn’t realize it was there until I edited the video! 😂
Front cv's bad on the 03 legacy too
The bee at 13:37 🐝
What fluid does he have in the pump up sprayer?
Brake parts cleaner.
I have this problem in a 2015 Legacy I just bought. Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have both front sides replaced at the dealership? Ball park estimate Thanks
Wow!