bro, you literally just solved my 8 month gremlin i have been chasing. go figure, the one upgrade/product i actually didnt read the instruction/forums for. my machine is MINT now... thank you! followed step by step, problem fixed
Hey I have the Ender 3 S1 Pro as well and I found out how to change the eSteps directly from the printer control panel. It's Settings > ADV.SET. > Movement > TX Rto > E TX Rto. You can input the eSteps you get from the calculator there and it's done. I double checked if the eSteps matches up in Pronterface and it did. I even ran the 100mm extrusion again to make sure.
This has to be one of the best and least complicated ways to explain these procedures to those of us learning. Thank you, you just gained a new subscriber.
Don't comment a lot. But this is one of the better video for how do do something on RUclips. Simple and free of 'And then a miracle happened' between steps.
Just want to add that if you have calipers, it can be useful to measure your marks on a separate piece of filament and transfer them. This way you have a "bendable ruler" for 100 and 120mm. After extrusion, cut the filament flush with the orifice so you can again measure with calipers more easily.
nice, i did the same thing except i measured the marks on a separate piece of painter's tape and just taped the edge to the filament being extruded, then made the marks on the filament, made it a lot easier
after countless hotend issues (mainly trying to diagnose the clicking) i discovered how off my esteps were! thank you so much for posting this, and many of your other videos!
You can enter the calibration value in the touch screen menus. Go to settings, advanced settings, movement, TX Rto, e step value is in the lower right corner.
Thank you! I just installed a Sherpa Mini direct drive extruder onto my Ender 3 V2 and was looking for the simplest way to adjust the extruder e-steps beyond the range allowable in the physical control panel on the printer. This approach worked painlessly. I ended up setting my motor VREF to .28 volts, and my extruder e-steps to 702.
Great video, thank you! One of my printers is a Snapmaker J1s Dual Extruder and I couldn't work out how to heat up the 2nd extruder but then figured out "T0" is for extruder 1 and "T1" for extruder 2 then the same user interface works for either one that is active.
Instead of fiddling to measure the length of filament with a measurer, i printed out a narrow rectangle of PLA at 105mm and slightly wider than the filament, so the filament can rest within the rectangle with thumb holding it in place, mark with a fine tip sharpie. Takes all but 10 seconds.
Thank you! I’m still having issues with setting the calibration. When I change I had to change it from the esters from 415 to 423 for my sovol sv01 pro. But now it still seems off. I’m a noob so this is completely foreign to me. I just read that I should check my extrusion spring tension. So I am off to do that, and then re calibrate using your fantastic instructions. 🤞 ( honestly, the dang printer was printing perfectly, and then I started over thinking it and messing with settings ugghhh)
Recently installed a direct drive on my ender 3. Even after my own attempt to calibrate e steps it was under extruding. Never thought to measure before the extruder to check. Thanks for the info
For some reason on my FL Sun SR this isn't working. It's extruding less and less, and retracing more and more, even though I followed the video exactly. It worked for my Cr10S Pro, but not for the SR.
Hi, I followed your instructions to the T. When i get to the point to edit the M92 line, it wont let me do anything. I cant edit the numbers, as if its locked or something. Is there a work around for this? Thanks in advance.
I just printed a firgure on my S1 Pro and it almost looked perfect, except 1-2 layers in the middle that looks underextruded.... I'll check this out when I get home. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I am very new to this 3D printing but am learning a lot. I have a Ender 3S1 and did this to check out my esteps. My printer was right on the money so no changes required but I will check from time to time. Is there any videos on general maintenance that should be done to the printers like lube and oiling anything?
Most 3D printers I've found don't need that much maintenance however if you live in a humid environment you could need to dehydrate your filament from time to time.
Great video Jim. All too often people ignore e-step calibration and wonder why they are not getting optimum prints! You should print the filament measuring tool I made!
Yes, also measuring the diameter over a few meters and taking an average. Put that number in the slicer as it does affect the gcode result. Ask me how I know 🤦🏼. Most other extrusion issues should be adjusted with the slicer's extrusion multiplier after printing the Luke Hatfield 2-wall cube (my preference) from thingiverse.
I have a big problem on my Ender 3 S1 Pro, hope you can help me plsss so when the printer is heating up the filament is ''extruding/leaking''(pla 190ºc) for some reson alway happens this with the extruder not moving
Normally this issue would be solved with retraction. Try swapping a nozzle or making the start gcode heat to 150 before it does bed leveling so it wont be an issue there. Does seem like a pretty extreme case though.
I hate the thought of guesswork and approximation when doing something you only want to do once and then forget about it. Load your filament, then go to your extruder input, or your runout sensor input and clip the filament exactly on 120mm. Run your 100mm extrusion and then measure the leftover stub. If done right, you can start splitting millimetres to get it as close to the value you're looking for.
Yeah I mean the video overall is helpful, but I rolled my eyes at the marker. "10mm, or maybe 7". When he said that i thought "...or 5, or 3, whatever."
Can you help me with "CRTouch" installation on Sprite pro extruder? I cannot find right configuration for my Ender 3 Pro printer with "Silent" motherboard v4.2.7. I have connected everything, but cannot find right configurations...
Being a direct drive extruder it is likely less of an issue, But shouldn't you remove the nozzle before measuring to prevent its flow from effecting the result?
Yes, the prevailing thoughts on the matter are that physically you should be driving your E-Step value from the actual movement of filament and not introducing any other factors into it. If you add a nozzle, then temperature of the extruder will affect your e-steps value due to compression of filament, etc. E-steps should always be done in free-air, to eliminate variables. This is the consensus among people like Joseph Prusa, Adrian Bowyer (essentially god when it comes to 3D printing; he's the one who started all of this), Nophead, and many others. These are all people with 12+ years of experience in the 3D printing field. In any scientific journey, including engineering - you do your best to eliminate variability and base things on _facts_. Cold, hard numbers which are irrefutably the case. In most instances, the E-step value is calculated from the average diameter of the hobbed gear - given that different filaments will bite differently and change the 'true' circumference. Softer filaments will collapse further into the teeth, harder ones less so. The people who tell you to calibrate e-steps with the nozzle on are the same people who tell you to put bearings on the other ends of your Z axis rods instead of letting them float. They think they understand what's going on - but those who have done the empirical testing know that you leave the free ends to wobble so they don't impart their imperfections on the gantry. Same thing with E-steps. Don't trust anyone who tells you to calibrate this with the hot end attached and the nozzle up to temperature. Additionally - this calculated value is generally _correct from factory_. Not always, but in most instances. Only time you should need to change it, is when the diameter of your extruder gear is in question (changing drive mechanisms to dual-gear, changing to a different extruder system, etc) or if you do something like change from 1.8 to 0.9 degree step motors (effectively doubling your steps per mm requirement).
The pressure exerted by the extruder shouldn't be manipulated by the material being pushed through the nozzle. The displacement is fixed. If it does then your nozzle is not hot enough or clogged
Great video! E-steps are so important. I totally forgot to do e-steps after upgrading the extruder on my ender 3 pro and they were WAY off. Like extruded 59mm instead of 100mm off! I was impressed that the BTT SKR E3 mini V3 firmware had e-steps calibration built right in. It was super easy.
Alright, I installed the new Sprite, and I have a long bolt left over that I have no idea where it goes. Also, nothing is coming out of the sprite and look to be stuck or in idoling something. PLEASE HELP😅
I recently purchased creality ender 3 S1 pro but within a week extruder stopped working. No filament is coming out of the nozzle. I cleaned and replaced with the new nozzle that they provided as spare but still extruder is not working. Seems like there is some problem within dual gear extruder. Any suggestions please…
Thank you for sharing this video, I am familiar with using the bowden method for determining e-steps but wasn't sure how to go about it for a direct drive. I'll check this tonight on my sprite extruder as I think my numbers are off based on how my prints have been looking at the recommended 424.9 value that was in the instructions that came with the kit.
I have the Ender 3 S1, not the pro. It doesn't seem to have the option to tell it to extrude filament. I suppose I would use an app like you showed and could enter a G Code command to do that. Didn't know this was even possible.
This is an excellent, efficient video. Unfortunately, after using your info to measure my extrusion, I quickly found it to be dead accurate. Which means either I have a software issue, or I have no idea what is going on. I set my Extrusion Multiplier in Prusa to 0.9 and it went from unusable to nearly perfect first layer, but still separated and lifted a couple passes, and the whole thing seemed to be just bloated enough that the lid wouldn't close properly. And it's an Ender3 S1 pro. Cura usually does really well, even though it doesn't have a preset for the Pro model, but it's much more limited. What do I do?
Thanks for video. Can you do a video on good start gcode for cura? I've heard you need to modify it to use the autoclibration somehow. G92 or something. Thanks
If your using the S1 put M420 S1 in your gcode to make sure that the auto bed level is working. G92 works too but makes the bed level each time which is an unnecessary time waste.
Dear The Edge of Tech! I followed the steps what you show in the video, i try to calibrate my S1 pro, by default settings (E424.9) my extruder push 99.9 mm, after the calculation my new e-step value is 425.3, send to the printer and save, tge result is the same 99.9mm, new try with 425.7-same result, 426.1-same rseult, and so on until 429.8 and the result the same 99.9mm. How it is possible? Thx
In my case with the Bondtech DDX V3, I had to calibrate without the nozzle to get the correct e-steps, as otherwise they were way off and only caused further issues. That said, people seem to have their own opinions on this and whether you're supposed to calibrate your extruder only, or with your specific hot end setup, but as an example, the lead Marlin developers recommend doing it without the nozzle, as you're calibrating the extruder, not the print head/hot end/nozzle, as this way you'll know your extruder is calibrated and if you're still seeing issues, then the issue is with your hot end, nozzle or flow rate, not the extruder/e-steps.
Great video, simple to follow and to the point. I have a Sidewinder X2. It is under extruding by 10mm. I followed your video step by step. When I put in the new value and hit enter I got " * Unknown syntax: 494.44 " It won't take. I then enter "M503" and no change. Is there something I am doing wrong?
do pid tune before use pronterface m303 c8 s220 u1. then m500 it will save it. dont need to type anything it its all done the bed is m303 E-1 s65 c8 u1
Anyone know why when I add G29 to my start Gcode the probing always fails? Ender-3 S1 Pro. I have: G28 ;Home G29 ;ABL Then w/e came default on the Ender-3 S1 Pro
Hello, I've been watching your videos and have been following along with pretty much everything you have been saying to do with the Ender 3 S1 Pro. So I just got mine last week and I'm having a constant issue with a print shift. I've researched the issue, tried things that was suggested with zero luck. As of last night, I now hear a "knocking" sound after the first few layers and it almost seems like the extruder is having a difficult time pushing the filament through. After a bit, the knocking stops and the print continues on like nothing happened. I don't think this is a normal thing and I'm yet to understand why it's doing this. I've changed out the filaments thinking it might be a bad filament, but it's happening on all filaments. The Temp is set to 210 which seems to yield better results. Overall, I've leveled the bed over and over, checked the e-steps, checked the temps, made sure the surface the printer is on is pretty stable, checked the belts to see if they were tightened, checked the bed for a "wobble", etc. I am at a complete loss and I can't seem to find a website that states something about a shift and a "knocking". :( Any suggestions? I even took a small video of the knocking sound and posted it to reddit, hoping someone there can guild me in the right direction too. But as it stands now, I am at a complete loss. :(
I got the same one, and until tonight my prints have been pulling off the bed, and they've been making a sound similar to the filament roll shifting, but different. Almost like an air bubble popping. I print at 215 for the initial, and 210 for the rest. with a hot bed at 70, then 60-65 for black PLA. I couldn't get it to stick with anything else. It sounds similar to you, but probably different. My problem is my Z step is out (I think, I'm printing the test again now), and my bed has a dish shape to it. This is my first printer, so I'm assuming you checked XY and Z but I didn't think to until tonight. I was measuring 20.6something. I also just ran a straight edge over the full width and noticed a nice bow. At the moment I stuffed tin foil in there, but I want to mill the top at my machine shop. If anyone can tell me if I can or not I'd love to know before I find out I can't.
@@VR_DS I have checked the XY and Z. I have gotten better results with constant tweeking, but I still have the issues with the knocking. It's honestly driving me nuts because I can't figure it out. As far as the "bowl" issue, I don't think that is supposed to be that way. I would call support and ask. That sounds really strange to me.
@@Swerewolf My problem was fixed with the Z step. I had been calibrating with the 20mm cube, but that was too far off I guess? I recalibrated to 100mm and its been great. My bowl issue is a warped bed, it's not supposed to be like that, but a lot of them are. Have you tried getting a video? is it something you can recreate, or signs its going to happen? Maybe you have a small burr in your nozzle, and the wire has to fight until the whole unit is hot?
I don't know if your problem has been fixed yet but the fillament runout sensor can add friction which could explain what is happening. Try routing the filament straight to the extruder.
E-steps are already calibrated from factory in most instances. _MOST_ people don't need to do this. Different filaments will have different bite profiles, and you should adjust flow rate to account for these discrepancies between actual rolls.
I agree that they should be calibrated from the factory, but I have found several times that they are off.. And I agree about the flow rate, next weeks video will cover that!! Thanks for watching!
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bro, you literally just solved my 8 month gremlin i have been chasing. go figure, the one upgrade/product i actually didnt read the instruction/forums for. my machine is MINT now... thank you! followed step by step, problem fixed
Hey I have the Ender 3 S1 Pro as well and I found out how to change the eSteps directly from the printer control panel. It's Settings > ADV.SET. > Movement > TX Rto > E TX Rto. You can input the eSteps you get from the calculator there and it's done. I double checked if the eSteps matches up in Pronterface and it did. I even ran the 100mm extrusion again to make sure.
Wow! Thanks!! I appreciate the feedback, great find!
@@TheEdgeofTech Now worries, glad I could contribute something that might make it a little easier for others.
@@jolen500123 Thanks. Just calibrated my S1pro using this method.
Can you insert the decimal numbers of the result?
@@Thunderbolt0883 yes, but only the first value after the decimal. Like say for example if you get a decimal value of .32 you'll only be able to do .3
This has to be one of the best and least complicated ways to explain these procedures to those of us learning. Thank you, you just gained a new subscriber.
I have to say, this was explained so simply and directly, with easy explanations. Thanks for this!
Don't comment a lot. But this is one of the better video for how do do something on RUclips. Simple and free of 'And then a miracle happened' between steps.
Just want to add that if you have calipers, it can be useful to measure your marks on a separate piece of filament and transfer them. This way you have a "bendable ruler" for 100 and 120mm. After extrusion, cut the filament flush with the orifice so you can again measure with calipers more easily.
dude that is solid advice
nice, i did the same thing except i measured the marks on a separate piece of painter's tape and just taped the edge to the filament being extruded, then made the marks on the filament, made it a lot easier
oh man, this is great advice. i was having trouble since all i have atm is a fat pair of calipers that doesn’t fit well. you just saved my ass lol
after countless hotend issues (mainly trying to diagnose the clicking) i discovered how off my esteps were! thank you so much for posting this, and many of your other videos!
You can enter the calibration value in the touch screen menus. Go to settings, advanced settings, movement, TX Rto, e step value is in the lower right corner.
Thank you, that was super easy
Thank you! I just installed a Sherpa Mini direct drive extruder onto my Ender 3 V2 and was looking for the simplest way to adjust the extruder e-steps beyond the range allowable in the physical control panel on the printer. This approach worked painlessly. I ended up setting my motor VREF to .28 volts, and my extruder e-steps to 702.
I just upgraded my Ender with a Orbiter DD and a E3D V6 and this vid is just what I needed to cal my Esteps. Thanks!
Great video, thank you!
One of my printers is a Snapmaker J1s Dual Extruder and I couldn't work out how to heat up the 2nd extruder but then figured out "T0" is for extruder 1 and "T1" for extruder 2 then the same user interface works for either one that is active.
Just ordered a new S1 Plus. I know how important esteps are to do, so this video was excellent to show how to set that! thank you
"Sharpy" with a 2mm ball pen:) I like it!
Instead of fiddling to measure the length of filament with a measurer, i printed out a narrow rectangle of PLA at 105mm and slightly wider than the filament, so the filament can rest within the rectangle with thumb holding it in place, mark with a fine tip sharpie. Takes all but 10 seconds.
Thank you! I’m still having issues with setting the calibration. When I change I had to change it from the esters from 415 to 423 for my sovol sv01 pro. But now it still seems off. I’m a noob so this is completely foreign to me. I just read that I should check my extrusion spring tension. So I am off to do that, and then re calibrate using your fantastic instructions. 🤞
( honestly, the dang printer was printing perfectly, and then I started over thinking it and messing with settings ugghhh)
Thank you so much. I love you. I just recently got an Ender S1 Pro and haven’t been able to find a single video on them. This is perfect!
The most simple and best explanations on this subject. Thanks!!!
Recently installed a direct drive on my ender 3. Even after my own attempt to calibrate e steps it was under extruding. Never thought to measure before the extruder to check. Thanks for the info
For some reason on my FL Sun SR this isn't working. It's extruding less and less, and retracing more and more, even though I followed the video exactly. It worked for my Cr10S Pro, but not for the SR.
Hell Yeah bro! I needed this!! Thanks for always coming in clutch!
Hi,
I followed your instructions to the T. When i get to the point to edit the M92 line, it wont let me do anything. I cant edit the numbers, as if its locked or something. Is there a work around for this?
Thanks in advance.
I just printed a firgure on my S1 Pro and it almost looked perfect, except 1-2 layers in the middle that looks underextruded.... I'll check this out when I get home. Thanks!
Can you do this on a solvo v3? Mine just started under extruding and I’ve done everything just can’t seem to get it up and running again.
Question: Is E-calibration necessary when switching between filament material types? Specifically on a direct drive extruder.
Nope. Just calibrate the E Steps once, then do the Flow Rate calibration on the filaments. :)
Thanks for this video. I am very new to this 3D printing but am learning a lot. I have a Ender 3S1 and did this to check out my esteps. My printer was right on the money so no changes required but I will check from time to time. Is there any videos on general maintenance that should be done to the printers like lube and oiling anything?
Most 3D printers I've found don't need that much maintenance however if you live in a humid environment you could need to dehydrate your filament from time to time.
Also because of new firmware I run a auto pid tune on the hotend just to have it dialed in not necessary but definitely worth it
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. I was over extruding by about 5mm and this helped me dial it in properly. Awesome
Great video Jim. All too often people ignore e-step calibration and wonder why they are not getting optimum prints! You should print the filament measuring tool I made!
Yes, also measuring the diameter over a few meters and taking an average. Put that number in the slicer as it does affect the gcode result. Ask me how I know 🤦🏼.
Most other extrusion issues should be adjusted with the slicer's extrusion multiplier after printing the Luke Hatfield 2-wall cube (my preference) from thingiverse.
What!! Shoot me the link!!
Great info! Next week will be the new Flow Rate (extrusion multiplier) video and that will tie this all up! :)
So I have ender 3 just put the Creality direct drive kit and set my estep to 105.2 and it’s still over lapping my prints ?
Will this work with all sprite extruder. Thank you I have an ender 3 v2
What visible quality defect(s) will a too small or too large estep cause?
Over or underextrusion. Blobs, bulgy corners, filament pressed away, or gaps between lines or missing lines like running out of ink
I think that Satoshi said it very well here!!
Thanks for chiming in!! Nicely done!
I have a big problem on my Ender 3 S1 Pro, hope you can help me plsss so when the printer is heating up the filament is ''extruding/leaking''(pla 190ºc) for some reson alway happens this with the extruder not moving
Is it just dribbling out or fully pushing like it's printing?
@@TheEdgeofTech the extruder does not move one step even and it comes out like 2/3 cm of filament
Normally this issue would be solved with retraction. Try swapping a nozzle or making the start gcode heat to 150 before it does bed leveling so it wont be an issue there. Does seem like a pretty extreme case though.
I am having problems with blobs on my prints, I thought the steps were off, but it'd actually perfect
I hate the thought of guesswork and approximation when doing something you only want to do once and then forget about it. Load your filament, then go to your extruder input, or your runout sensor input and clip the filament exactly on 120mm. Run your 100mm extrusion and then measure the leftover stub. If done right, you can start splitting millimetres to get it as close to the value you're looking for.
Yeah I mean the video overall is helpful, but I rolled my eyes at the marker. "10mm, or maybe 7". When he said that i thought "...or 5, or 3, whatever."
Can you help me with "CRTouch" installation on Sprite pro extruder? I cannot find right configuration for my Ender 3 Pro printer with "Silent" motherboard v4.2.7. I have connected everything, but cannot find right configurations...
How do I do this on the anycubic Kobra neo as it doesn't have the move extruder option like other printers
i subscribed because I saw the Brewers on your teeshirt. I'm from GB.
Awesome! Go Packers!
my printer does allow me to put in steps but only in whole numbers is that good or bad and if good lets say its 429.40 should i do 430 or 429
What firmware doe you have on the Ender 3 S1 Pro? It does not look like the Ender firmware. Thanks.
Can you make a video installing the CR TOUCH on the sprite extruder
Hey thanks! Mine was 2mm to short! I did it via octoprint. Thanks again!
Jono from Hatchbox3d just subscribed woot woot!
It would be interesting to see a test of a badly calibrated extruder - both with too much and too little e-steps vs a calibrated one.
I like that idea David!!
Any ideas on an ender3 s1 that will not communicate with the extruder? I replaced the entire extruder/hot end assembly, no changes.
Being a direct drive extruder it is likely less of an issue, But shouldn't you remove the nozzle before measuring to prevent its flow from effecting the result?
That's a great point! There are so many different thoughts on this, just like everything! Thanks for watching!
Yes, the prevailing thoughts on the matter are that physically you should be driving your E-Step value from the actual movement of filament and not introducing any other factors into it. If you add a nozzle, then temperature of the extruder will affect your e-steps value due to compression of filament, etc.
E-steps should always be done in free-air, to eliminate variables. This is the consensus among people like Joseph Prusa, Adrian Bowyer (essentially god when it comes to 3D printing; he's the one who started all of this), Nophead, and many others. These are all people with 12+ years of experience in the 3D printing field. In any scientific journey, including engineering - you do your best to eliminate variability and base things on _facts_. Cold, hard numbers which are irrefutably the case. In most instances, the E-step value is calculated from the average diameter of the hobbed gear - given that different filaments will bite differently and change the 'true' circumference. Softer filaments will collapse further into the teeth, harder ones less so. The people who tell you to calibrate e-steps with the nozzle on are the same people who tell you to put bearings on the other ends of your Z axis rods instead of letting them float. They think they understand what's going on - but those who have done the empirical testing know that you leave the free ends to wobble so they don't impart their imperfections on the gantry. Same thing with E-steps. Don't trust anyone who tells you to calibrate this with the hot end attached and the nozzle up to temperature. Additionally - this calculated value is generally _correct from factory_. Not always, but in most instances. Only time you should need to change it, is when the diameter of your extruder gear is in question (changing drive mechanisms to dual-gear, changing to a different extruder system, etc) or if you do something like change from 1.8 to 0.9 degree step motors (effectively doubling your steps per mm requirement).
@@ThantiK really depends tho. In klipper, it says you need to have your nozzle to the right temperature when calibrating esteps.
The pressure exerted by the extruder shouldn't be manipulated by the material being pushed through the nozzle. The displacement is fixed. If it does then your nozzle is not hot enough or clogged
I'm interested in the spool holder with the filament sensor, can you share the Stl?
It comes with the S1/S1 Pro/S1 Plus
Great video! E-steps are so important. I totally forgot to do e-steps after upgrading the extruder on my ender 3 pro and they were WAY off. Like extruded 59mm instead of 100mm off! I was impressed that the BTT SKR E3 mini V3 firmware had e-steps calibration built right in. It was super easy.
Awesome!! It's always good to check them at least, and I love the idea of it being built in!
How is that combo?
Do they mix well?
I agree, however the example in the video the S1 I've found is already perfectly calibrated from factory.
Alright, I installed the new Sprite, and I have a long bolt left over that I have no idea where it goes. Also, nothing is coming out of the sprite and look to be stuck or in idoling something. PLEASE HELP😅
cant find any of your setting Like extrude 100 mm on my An yCubic Kobra Neo can i do it in Cura
The only issue I have with this video and info is the brewers shirt your wearing!!! Thanks for the helpful info bro. Greatly Changed my printing exp…
I recently purchased creality ender 3 S1 pro but within a week extruder stopped working. No filament is coming out of the nozzle. I cleaned and replaced with the new nozzle that they provided as spare but still extruder is not working. Seems like there is some problem within dual gear extruder. Any suggestions please…
Finally the video I was looking for
Thank you for sharing this video, I am familiar with using the bowden method for determining e-steps but wasn't sure how to go about it for a direct drive. I'll check this tonight on my sprite extruder as I think my numbers are off based on how my prints have been looking at the recommended 424.9 value that was in the instructions that came with the kit.
Is .5-1mm over extrusion going to cause problems?
I have the Ender 3 S1, not the pro. It doesn't seem to have the option to tell it to extrude filament. I suppose I would use an app like you showed and could enter a G Code command to do that. Didn't know this was even possible.
In the S1, it's Move (Axis) > Extruder > 10mm
how would you do this when your printer doesnt have the ability to just extrude filament (i have the sermoon v1)
Does this need to be done for different materials? Ie. I usually print PLA but now switching to CF nylon do I need to re calibrate esteps?
Super helpful and easy guide. Thank you!
is there a way to set x and y proboffsets in pronterface also?
Thanks, having issues dialling in my S1 Pro so this is very valuable advice.
Super helpful and easy to follow. Thanks a lot.
Big up the shakey hand crew
🤪🤪👊👊👊👊
Thanks, this was really helpful and way easier than I thought it was going to be!
Thanks a lot! I literally spent about 1 month finding out why my ender 5 plus is not printing in expected quality.
In my case the extruder doesn't start to print out this 100mm of filament. How to give it the initial order to do that?
This is an excellent, efficient video. Unfortunately, after using your info to measure my extrusion, I quickly found it to be dead accurate. Which means either I have a software issue, or I have no idea what is going on. I set my Extrusion Multiplier in Prusa to 0.9 and it went from unusable to nearly perfect first layer, but still separated and lifted a couple passes, and the whole thing seemed to be just bloated enough that the lid wouldn't close properly. And it's an Ender3 S1 pro. Cura usually does really well, even though it doesn't have a preset for the Pro model, but it's much more limited. What do I do?
Awesome, I was looked for video like this :)
Great! I am glad it helped!
Thanks for the info. Your video makes it really easy to understand how to program this.
Thanks for video. Can you do a video on good start gcode for cura?
I've heard you need to modify it to use the autoclibration somehow. G92 or something.
Thanks
If your using the S1 put M420 S1 in your gcode to make sure that the auto bed level is working. G92 works too but makes the bed level each time which is an unnecessary time waste.
Math! OMG! I knew I shoulda paid attention in class!
Hi, could you tell me what is the voltage of the Sprite Extruder Pro? As the Ender 3 comes in a 12V and 24V version
The sprite extruder uses 24 volts.
Dear The Edge of Tech!
I followed the steps what you show in the video, i try to calibrate my S1 pro, by default settings (E424.9) my extruder push 99.9 mm, after the calculation my new e-step value is 425.3, send to the printer and save, tge result is the same 99.9mm, new try with 425.7-same result, 426.1-same rseult, and so on until 429.8 and the result the same 99.9mm.
How it is possible?
Thx
M500 makes the settings save.
Oh, I just read the instructions on the website. Didn't realise it was different.
In my case with the Bondtech DDX V3, I had to calibrate without the nozzle to get the correct e-steps, as otherwise they were way off and only caused further issues.
That said, people seem to have their own opinions on this and whether you're supposed to calibrate your extruder only, or with your specific hot end setup, but as an example, the lead Marlin developers recommend doing it without the nozzle, as you're calibrating the extruder, not the print head/hot end/nozzle, as this way you'll know your extruder is calibrated and if you're still seeing issues, then the issue is with your hot end, nozzle or flow rate, not the extruder/e-steps.
Great info! I like that idea too, and may have to do a video showing this method as well! It's good to cover all the bases. Thanks for watching!
says to use 424.9 is that a baseline?
Wait, shouldn't this be relative to the current position considering that you now have somewhere around 20 to 30mm already in the print head?
Great video, simple to follow and to the point. I have a Sidewinder X2. It is under extruding by 10mm. I followed your video step by step. When I put in the new value and hit enter I got " * Unknown syntax: 494.44 " It won't take. I then enter "M503" and no change. Is there something I am doing wrong?
Did you put M92 before?
Remove the nozzle for this?
Thank you. Super helpful
One word.........Nice
Two words.. Thank you!
haaaa merci! enfin sur un direct drive! great!
which printer was this done by ?
this helped me so much, thanks
i just upgraded to direct drive for the ender 3, but i cant seem to get the fan over the extruder to come on.
and i have a clog that happens every few mins
thank you, amazing video
do pid tune before use pronterface m303 c8 s220 u1. then m500 it will save it. dont need to type anything it its all done the bed is m303 E-1 s65 c8 u1
I didn't see the formula for calculation of e steps based on the mm it actually extruded weather over or under
what if your 3d printer retracts after extruding?
Anyone know why when I add G29 to my start Gcode the probing always fails? Ender-3 S1 Pro. I have:
G28 ;Home
G29 ;ABL
Then w/e came default on the Ender-3 S1 Pro
I use M420 S1 instead which uses less time. Might work out better.
Holly crap Brewers fan . Lovvr
Link to other video? Please
Which one?!
@@TheEdgeofTech fixing e steps on a Boden setup
simple enough, thanks!
Thanks man!
Clear and concise. Thank you!
Hello, I've been watching your videos and have been following along with pretty much everything you have been saying to do with the Ender 3 S1 Pro. So I just got mine last week and I'm having a constant issue with a print shift. I've researched the issue, tried things that was suggested with zero luck. As of last night, I now hear a "knocking" sound after the first few layers and it almost seems like the extruder is having a difficult time pushing the filament through. After a bit, the knocking stops and the print continues on like nothing happened. I don't think this is a normal thing and I'm yet to understand why it's doing this. I've changed out the filaments thinking it might be a bad filament, but it's happening on all filaments. The Temp is set to 210 which seems to yield better results.
Overall, I've leveled the bed over and over, checked the e-steps, checked the temps, made sure the surface the printer is on is pretty stable, checked the belts to see if they were tightened, checked the bed for a "wobble", etc. I am at a complete loss and I can't seem to find a website that states something about a shift and a "knocking". :( Any suggestions? I even took a small video of the knocking sound and posted it to reddit, hoping someone there can guild me in the right direction too. But as it stands now, I am at a complete loss. :(
I got the same one, and until tonight my prints have been pulling off the bed, and they've been making a sound similar to the filament roll shifting, but different. Almost like an air bubble popping. I print at 215 for the initial, and 210 for the rest. with a hot bed at 70, then 60-65 for black PLA. I couldn't get it to stick with anything else. It sounds similar to you, but probably different. My problem is my Z step is out (I think, I'm printing the test again now), and my bed has a dish shape to it. This is my first printer, so I'm assuming you checked XY and Z but I didn't think to until tonight. I was measuring 20.6something. I also just ran a straight edge over the full width and noticed a nice bow. At the moment I stuffed tin foil in there, but I want to mill the top at my machine shop. If anyone can tell me if I can or not I'd love to know before I find out I can't.
@@VR_DS I have checked the XY and Z. I have gotten better results with constant tweeking, but I still have the issues with the knocking. It's honestly driving me nuts because I can't figure it out. As far as the "bowl" issue, I don't think that is supposed to be that way. I would call support and ask. That sounds really strange to me.
@@Swerewolf My problem was fixed with the Z step. I had been calibrating with the 20mm cube, but that was too far off I guess? I recalibrated to 100mm and its been great. My bowl issue is a warped bed, it's not supposed to be like that, but a lot of them are. Have you tried getting a video? is it something you can recreate, or signs its going to happen? Maybe you have a small burr in your nozzle, and the wire has to fight until the whole unit is hot?
I don't know if your problem has been fixed yet but the fillament runout sensor can add friction which could explain what is happening. Try routing the filament straight to the extruder.
@@VR_DS If it is the S1 you can send them the warrenty. I've heard people getting returns for much smaller warps.
Thanks a lot very helpfull
E-steps are already calibrated from factory in most instances. _MOST_ people don't need to do this. Different filaments will have different bite profiles, and you should adjust flow rate to account for these discrepancies between actual rolls.
Nope.
I agree that they should be calibrated from the factory, but I have found several times that they are off.. And I agree about the flow rate, next weeks video will cover that!! Thanks for watching!
Extremely nope.
Ultra nope
is this applicable with s1 (non-pro)
Yes however the e-steps are generaly good out of the box.
Thank you..
Thanks for watching!
over a year after this has been posted, but go Brewers!