One tip to make things a little faster, don't fill the shock to the top immediately. fill about 1/4 of the way raise the piston slightly being sure not to go above the fluid and drop it back down. This allows you to get the air out of underneath the pistons but now you don't have to wait for the bubble to transverse the entire shock of fluid to get out. once the bubbles are gone fill it the rest of the way.
I always put the shock shaft into the shock first and then put on the o-ring and schims. Then I push the o-rings into the shock and screw on the bottom.
Great way to make sure u don't damage the x/o-rings! I just lubricate them very good, then leave the bottom cap loose and tighten after shock shaft is through.
With the new MIP Allen tools there is a clear heatshrink tube that goes over and protects the sticker on the shaft. The heat shrink is flat in the pack so it just looks like random bits of flat plastic, but once you open it into a tube it's obviously heatshrink to cover the MIP sticker to stop it peeling -like yours is.
When I bleed out shocks I always install the spring cup, that is the final piece of the puzzle that determines the final shock shaft travel. And just one more piece of the puzzle,always hold the shock in the vertical position when bleeding,because gravity is your friend
One tip to make things a little faster, don't fill the shock to the top immediately. fill about 1/4 of the way raise the piston slightly being sure not to go above the fluid and drop it back down. This allows you to get the air out of underneath the pistons but now you don't have to wait for the bubble to transverse the entire shock of fluid to get out. once the bubbles are gone fill it the rest of the way.
Great tip... 👍
Hold the shaft a little stiffer you say
You guys have quickly became my fav channel. Great info as always
Excellent information, perfectly explained. I have an MA in International Education from Oxford Brookes, and you’re a great teacher sir!
Great vid! Idea for a video: B6 tuning setup tutorial
I always put the shock shaft into the shock first and then put on the o-ring and schims. Then I push the o-rings into the shock and screw on the bottom.
Great way to make sure u don't damage the x/o-rings! I just lubricate them very good, then leave the bottom cap loose and tighten after shock shaft is through.
I remember back in the 90s, HPI had the best shocks. Touring car... calcium coating inside the shock body. Silky smoth.
Perfect. Just doing mine now ready for my first trip to mkgp
Hold the shaft a little stiffer you say, then rub some slime on it
With the new MIP Allen tools there is a clear heatshrink tube that goes over and protects the sticker on the shaft. The heat shrink is flat in the pack so it just looks like random bits of flat plastic, but once you open it into a tube it's obviously heatshrink to cover the MIP sticker to stop it peeling -like yours is.
When I bleed out shocks I always install the spring cup, that is the final piece of the puzzle that determines the final shock shaft travel. And just one more piece of the puzzle,always hold the shock in the vertical position when bleeding,because gravity is your friend
Little lube on the finger and then slip it in, Got it!
How often should we change shock oil?
Very informative as ever. What shock shaft lengths are you using from the kashima package, so as original kit lengths?
Where can I get one of those pit mats u have with the blue around it?
When is part 2 coming out lads?