Just a tip or two and from someone who has battled a few fork, before you disassemble anything loosen the bottom Allen bolt first and rounded ball head wrenches its better to use a regular Allen head a long one on a drill motor works best, and zap it in spurts not full thottle. and when you take the fork caps off, a six sided socket works better, also when you put in the vise turn it so the fender mounts keep it from turning I know you already did this, but maybe somebody reading can use these tips And there is nothing wrong in taking the forks off and going to a shop to have them do it, but please leave them intact it makes the tech's job much easier than trying to puzzle together someones box of parts.
Unreal mark well done mate. I made a cafe racer with the same bike. I changed everything on the bike but did not do that. Thank you so much for sharing it. I will definitely give it a go now. Cheers from Adelaide mate.
Thanks for another great video Mark. Congrats on the KLR Matt . I had one and loved it. Rode it from the great Ocean road upto Cairns and back and it didn't skip a beat and was my daily ride around town.
The blank on the bottom of the fork tube is a casting mark. It's where the drain plug would go but looks as if not used on this bike. Honda use the same major castings for several different models for cost and production reasons, . I've got this same thing on my posties. The older models have drain plugs, but on the newer ones you have to remove the forks to drain them.
Copper crush washers can be re-annealed buy heating them till they turn cheery red, when cooled you'll see they have change colour. This makes the particulars expand so that it can be crushed again and form a good seal. And it's an excuse to get the blow torch out. Just thought I would share this tip with you and anyone who reads it.
Mark. The bolt that screws in from the bottom generally has a copper sealing washer. Or at very least some thread sealant. That is very important otherwise you WILL have fork oil leaking down the thread out onto axle/hub.
After pouring the oil in I slowly pump the forks a couple times without the caps on. I remember a 125 I had used the fork lower castings themselves as bushes so nothing to pull out the oil seal, similar to here.
Hey Mark, I did a video disassembling 3 similar forks from different brands. They were from older bikes, 70's 80's, but basically the same except 2 things that you ran into. The first was the drain plug. I suspect that they removed them from later models so you would pay your dealer to get a fork oil change, since there is no way to change it on the bike unless you break the bottom bolt or take them off. I am impressed you got that bottom bolt off without breaking the allen key. Next time, cut the key with an abrasive wheel just long enough and use a 6 mill socket or whatever size on the remaining key. The other issue was the fact the tube came out without the seal. That is probably also a cost saving measure by Honda. The tubes had a machined groove under the seal with a circlip that caught the seal and would not let it pass. Anyway, you did good, you got it done. All the best!
Good stuff Mark- have to say I haven't seen a kero heater for years!! The Honda will be like a new bike to ride now-can't wait to see what you think of the KLR V DR!
When you removed that lower bolt (socket screw), and when it sounded like it snapped, how good is it when you find it had undone. I've done that job and freak out thinking what would happen if the bolt (socket screw) head strips out. Well done Mark! Very enjoyable. 👍😁
@@BikerBitslol. I wasn't aware of the off on the switch. I assumed it was always on but, switch to high or low. So, Whew! I have headlights high, low & taillights. But, no brakelights. The wires coming out battery compartment into a brake switch plunger like plastic nut held by frame bracket and plastic threads that go into it. The threads are crooked as it looks cross threaded. I'm thinking that's the culprit. Any help is appreciated
As long as you take your time this stuff isn’t hard to do yourself and you save a couple of hundred dollars or pounds 😃👍 and the blank hols at the bottom of the fork legs , on other models would have a drain bolt in that position .
G’day mark, I’m looking at buying a Kawasaki KZ250, just wondering if you’ve had any experience with those ones and what your thoughts are on it? Cheers mate
Yep. Sorry but seal is in upside down. Spring side almost always faces the oil with seals. If you reuse copper washer. Hold with pliers over gas ring till cherry red then dip in cold water to reaneal and soften to use again. I put broom handle in the tube then put the bits on, invert, put broom in vice and put the slider on and bolt it up. Less fidley.
Good job if done a little out of order .. save your self a lot of money and use auto trans oil on all your bikes that's all i have ever used i bought 10ltrs of synthetic atf a few years back far cheaper than the fancy stuff and i think the atf fluid do a far better job
For these shocks it doesn't matter, as the piggy back gas chamber is just a dummy one, you could even cut it off and it wouldn't change the shock performance.
BBs Customs Whats the point of that then???? Surly they wouldn’t (design) put something on unless it was functional?? 🤔🤔🤔🤷♂️ Kinda defeating the object 🤷♂️ I always thought it was a compression chamber of sorts?? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Just a tip or two and from someone who has battled a few fork, before you disassemble anything loosen the bottom Allen bolt first and rounded ball head wrenches its better to use a regular Allen head a long one on a drill motor works best, and zap it in spurts not full thottle.
and when you take the fork caps off, a six sided socket works better, also when you put in the vise turn it so the fender mounts keep it from turning
I know you already did this, but maybe somebody reading can use these tips
And there is nothing wrong in taking the forks off and going to a shop to have them do it, but please leave them intact it makes the tech's job much easier than trying to puzzle together someones box of parts.
A monotube shock can be installed up or down/ forward or backwards, sir
@@ryant5435 military, sir
I can't wait to see what you do with the KLR ,the little Honda turned out great.
Does anyone have suggestion where to get those right sized accordion fork covers?
Somehow I missed this episode!! ah man! Ok, now to watch it! The CB250 turned out great by the way, looks really cool!
Congratulation on the klr, gona ne cool to follow the build on that.
Thanks for keeping it real. Got us back on the road! 💯great vid!
Unreal mark well done mate. I made a cafe racer with the same bike. I changed everything on the bike but did not do that. Thank you so much for sharing it. I will definitely give it a go now. Cheers from Adelaide mate.
Your shop is an inspiration for me! Nite!!!
Thanks for another great video Mark. Congrats on the KLR Matt . I had one and loved it. Rode it from the great Ocean road upto Cairns and back and it didn't skip a beat and was my daily ride around town.
The blank on the bottom of the fork tube is a casting mark. It's where the drain plug would go but looks as if not used on this bike. Honda use the same major castings for several different models for cost and production reasons, . I've got this same thing on my posties. The older models have drain plugs, but on the newer ones you have to remove the forks to drain them.
Copper crush washers can be re-annealed buy heating them till they turn cheery red, when cooled you'll see they have change colour. This makes the particulars expand so that it can be crushed again and form a good seal. And it's an excuse to get the blow torch out. Just thought I would share this tip with you and anyone who reads it.
Very entertaining great to see you have a go at the fork seals.
Well done, no damage and no injuries.
Mark. The bolt that screws in from the bottom generally has a copper sealing washer. Or at very least some thread sealant.
That is very important otherwise you WILL have fork oil leaking down the thread out onto axle/hub.
Love seeing the new projects rolling!
After pouring the oil in I slowly pump the forks a couple times without the caps on. I remember a 125 I had used the fork lower castings themselves as bushes so nothing to pull out the oil seal, similar to here.
Hi tad seipel here great video love the bike build video great little bike that cb 250 can't wait till next one
another very entertaining vid Mark. thanks mate.
Hi Mark, the package of grease is for the new seals. You'll want to grease them every once and awhile to prevent stiction.
Thanks mate! :-)
Nice one Mark.
"You got the force" Mark!
It means totally fork oil to me! 🤣👍
Regards,
Dazza.. 🇬🇧
LOL :-)
Hey Mark, I did a video disassembling 3 similar forks from different brands. They were from older bikes, 70's 80's, but basically the same except 2 things that you ran into. The first was the drain plug. I suspect that they removed them from later models so you would pay your dealer to get a fork oil change, since there is no way to change it on the bike unless you break the bottom bolt or take them off. I am impressed you got that bottom bolt off without breaking the allen key. Next time, cut the key with an abrasive wheel just long enough and use a 6 mill socket or whatever size on the remaining key. The other issue was the fact the tube came out without the seal. That is probably also a cost saving measure by Honda. The tubes had a machined groove under the seal with a circlip that caught the seal and would not let it pass. Anyway, you did good, you got it done. All the best!
Good stuff Mark- have to say I haven't seen a kero heater for years!! The Honda will be like a new bike to ride now-can't wait to see what you think of the KLR V DR!
165 ml for 35mm shocks of 5 wt automatic trans fluid from the factory sir
When you removed that lower bolt (socket screw), and when it sounded like it snapped, how good is it when you find it had undone. I've done that job and freak out thinking what would happen if the bolt (socket screw) head strips out. Well done Mark! Very enjoyable. 👍😁
My '73 Honda CT90 has no lights. Head, brakes n taillights. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting?
The battery first! :-)
@@BikerBitslol. I wasn't aware of the off on the switch. I assumed it was always on but, switch to high or low. So, Whew! I have headlights high, low & taillights. But, no brakelights. The wires coming out battery compartment into a brake switch plunger like plastic nut held by frame bracket and plastic threads that go into it. The threads are crooked as it looks cross threaded. I'm thinking that's the culprit. Any help is appreciated
Yes face the reservoir to the front. Otherwise it will hit the blinker as the shock is compressed /swing arm moves up.
With the shock... I’d be more inclined to run forward to limit exposure... But having them piggy backing the rear looks much more stylish... 😆
Cool klr good Onya Matt
It’s not clear on the video but the spring side of the seal should face the oil. Are you sure it isn’t upside down?
Both sides had a spring and it's the same as the ones that come out! :-)
@@BikerBits Well.... if they don't leak then... all good! :)
And with the gators there is less issue with stuff getting in to hurt the seal.
As long as you take your time this stuff isn’t hard to do yourself and you save a couple of hundred dollars or pounds 😃👍 and the blank hols at the bottom of the fork legs , on other models would have a drain bolt in that position .
G’day mark, I’m looking at buying a Kawasaki KZ250, just wondering if you’ve had any experience with those ones and what your thoughts are on it? Cheers mate
Sorry mate I haven't!
Biker Bits No worries!
Be careful with the reservoir facing the front on the rear shocks. It could hit the chain guard as it compresses.
Yep. Sorry but seal is in upside down. Spring side almost always faces the oil with seals. If you reuse copper washer. Hold with pliers over gas ring till cherry red then dip in cold water to reaneal and soften to use again. I put broom handle in the tube then put the bits on, invert, put broom in vice and put the slider on and bolt it up. Less fidley.
There was a spring in both sides! The seal went in the same as it came out :-)
I absolutely hate doing fork seals. Especially on foreign bikes. Absolutely drive me nuts lol
Oh Mark and them shocks the resivor should face up other wise they won't work properly
Good job if done a little out of order .. save your self a lot of money and use auto trans oil on all your bikes that's all i have ever used i bought 10ltrs of synthetic atf a few years back far cheaper than the fancy stuff and i think the atf fluid do a far better job
Not toooo bad? That fork oil was bloody putrid mate😂
For these shocks it doesn't matter, as the piggy back gas chamber is just a dummy one, you could even cut it off and it wouldn't change the shock performance.
Are you talking about the new rear ones?
@@BikerBits yea, they are just on there for show.
BBs Customs Whats the point of that then???? Surly they wouldn’t (design) put something on unless it was functional?? 🤔🤔🤔🤷♂️ Kinda defeating the object 🤷♂️ I always thought it was a compression chamber of sorts?? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
@@BareBonesMotorcycles Sorry, you are wrong...they are functional. chrislivengood.net/rfy-shocks-overview/
The seal is upside down.
No there is a spring on both sides!
@@BikerBits I know there is, and I don't want to be a bore, but its upside down. I'm sure it'll be fine.
First
Nice one! :-)