Thanks for the post always love the new content this is definitely something in my radar just waiting till Subifest FL passes to see what I can find info wise with the few mods I've done so far.
You bet man, glad you found the video helpful. Lots more content on the way. I still have the Perrin OAS to install, drive belt cover, trimming the intake heat shield for the FMIC piping and STI brakes.
Good job on the install and being detailed, I enjoyed watching and learning! I probably will never do this as I rarely will track my VB... but my concern would be all the coolers in the front, you lose efficiency with it. I know nothing is perfect and this is a solid solution overall, the numbers show it works very well, but that is a lot going on in the front now haha
Thanks for watching and glad to hear you enjoy these kind of videos. And yes your are correct there is a lot of things going on up front now. I was thinking of getting the Hella horns next, but not sure if that would be too much?
I personally think anything else up front would be too much, especially hella horns since you aren't getting performance out of those and it would be blocking some air flow. Again that's just me, but they do look cool and it's your build - the beauty of making it whatever you want it to be! Looking forward to more of your vids
Quick question do you ever plan on dropping the oil pan to see if the RTV is over done. Second question if there are small particles of RTV will it clog the oil cooler? And thank you for showing me this I was wondering if a front mount oil cooler would fit with the front mount intercooler. Great video none the less and great quality. Thanks again for everything.😊
I have never seen any particulates or and signs of RTV from any of my oil changes. looking at the design of the Oil Cooler sandwich plate, it appears to me that the oil is pumped through the filter first before it enters into the oil cooler, so I don't believe that the RTV would have a chance to clog the oil cooler core. I should probably drop the pan and check it out. I start on my RB26 build this Friday. I will see if I can find the time to drop the pan and look into my engine RTV. I have 3 other projects 1st from partnerships I have to complete videos for on my channel before I can look into this. Good question, thanks for your insight and channel support Jeremy!👍
@@JDMRightHandDrive absolutely right about it not getting into the oil cooler but I am always curious if there is RTV in my filter lol. Plus I’m scared to drop because I am pretty sure they will void warranty if they see it tampered with.
@@caniwave4087 yes I spoke with my dealership today and they said and I quote "we cannot drop or check for RTV until a warning light or check engine light come on. The only other way we will check as well is if you start hearing obvious signs that oil isnt being spread out." So basically they will not touch the car till rod knock or worse. So if you plan on doing it just do it because they won't warranty it until it becomes an actual irreversible problem.
SUPERB VIDEO!!! The temperature delta was what I was curious about! Great shots of the car in action too! I do have a couple questions. 1. What fuel are you pro tuned on? 2. When should an oil-air separator be utilized? Thanks in advance, I have had my '22 VB for two months now and I'm in love with it!
Thinking about adding one of these to my ‘23 since I live in Arizona. We have a good 4 months of 100°+ temps so anything that helps to keep temps lower.
I think its worth noting ideally your oil temp should hover at least around 200... on some large engines I used to work on it was preferable to stay around at least 215 to make sure there was absolutely no water. Yes it was straight 40 weight in those and I know different engine, different specs, but everything I've worked on generally likes to see around 215. Colder isnt always better. I'd say you really should only do this upgrade if you actually hammer on it a lot or if it sees good track time.
@@JDMRightHandDrive That 204 deg F is probably right about where your oil thermostat becomes fully open to the cooler. 20 degrees is a pretty normal range for automotive thermostats, from just starting to open, to fully open. If yours is starting to open at 184 deg, then that 204 is right in there for the fully open temp. Just my guess!
100%. Optimal engine temp is 220-230 and running cold 190-200 is neither good for engine (optimal oil performance) nor power (track times). I have a post above mirroring what you said.
I believe that the car does have a oil pressure gauge. The Cobb AP3 did not have a setting to see this before, I will check if the latest firmware update allowed this to be displayed. I might be wrong, but I was pretty sure this is the case.
Seems like that would make a huge mess when changing the oil, with the factory 'cup' missing where the oil filter sits. Otherwise, looks really nice. I'm thinking a bigger radiator might be better overall for simplicity (leaving the oil system as is), since sitting in traffic with no air flow over the oil cooler wouldn't really help much other than whatever breeze the radiator fans draws in. I do like the idea of an oil cooler though. I guess you could see benefits in either scenario - bigger radiator and better fans or an oil cooler.
I was thinking the same thing about the radiator. When is Koyo going to come out with a VB WRX radiator. And yes, I was also thinking the thermostat on the oil cooler should have a ring. Yes I see it potentially spilling oil everywhere. Next oil change I will twist off the oil fill cap and pull the plug. That should release the vacuum pressure and allow the oil filter to drain the oil I think. I will let it sit for 10 minutes draining before twisting the filter off and see what type of mess it makes.
You could probably wrap a cotton T-Shirt around the base to catch any oil that comes out (after doing what you mentioned first to let it drain as much as possible before loosening the filter). By the way, thanks for the detailed view of the parts and how they connect, etc. That's a big help to anyone doing something like this when you can't easily see what you're doing in tight places. @@JDMRightHandDrive
I have the perrin oil cooler for my 21 wrx and the an fitting failed the one under the oil filter on the left side. My engine was stared of oil and I got rod knock.
You might me able to fit it behind the fog light bezel on the passenger side if you make some brackets. This wont work if you have a FMIC. Plus the fog light bezels don't have any air venting, you would have to modify the for air flow. Do you not like it sitting behind the front grille. Air flow is awesome there and the core is so thick and durable. I feel confident that it will hold up long-term there. My FMIC still looks perfect after 6 months on the car and does not even show any damage from road debris. The fins are perfect and look like new on both the FMIC and OC.
@@JDMRightHandDrive I'm probably over-engineering this, but I don't love the idea of overlapping with the radiator. Ideally, both the radiator and the oil cooler would be 100% exposed to fresh air. But TBH, this this is just me thinking things through in my head before pulling the trigger :)
I have one sitting on my shelf in the garage. I just have not had the free time to install it and make the video. That one will be coming soon, thanks for watching!👍
That was the first thing I did to my 09 wrx. Then cooling mod and this week an oil cooler from mishimoto. I love their customer support. I like the thermostatic plate.
So i am gonna start by saying that this is one of the most missunderstood topics there is. In fact, it is double counterintuitive. First, thicker oil runs cooler (takes longer to warm up and stay warm) and secondly, lower temps result in lower power. Do the searching yourselves, i could post links but i am not trying to prove anything to anyone, just pointing out some facts. Optimal temps are different for different oils, but running 200F and running 230f can result in noticeable power increase with hotter oil temps. So this is NOT a mod for ppl who do not understand what they are doing and just lowering oil temperature from optimal range is not something that will help your engine or your times.
Great level off detail in the video, I feel confident tackling this job myself now. Thank you
Thanks for the post always love the new content this is definitely something in my radar just waiting till Subifest FL passes to see what I can find info wise with the few mods I've done so far.
Have fun at Subifest FL, I need to make it to a Subifest someday. Thanks for your channel support and its awesome to hear you enjoy my WRX videos.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it Shiloh, thanks so much for watching.
I’ve been waiting for this vid. 😊 thanks for the great content.
You bet man, glad you found the video helpful. Lots more content on the way. I still have the Perrin OAS to install, drive belt cover, trimming the intake heat shield for the FMIC piping and STI brakes.
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for making such an awesome product!💪
It would be interesting to see the oil temps when it’s below freezing outside.
Yeah, that's what's preventing me from pulling the trigger. I'm worried my oil might get *too* cold.
Def getting one asap! Thank you for the video
No problem!! I am very impressed with the overall performance and fitment. Thanks for watching my channel and have fun with the install. 🔧
If you open your radiator cap first (after the engine cools), your hose won't be pressurized.
Damn, I wish I would have thought about adding that into the video. Thanks for the insight.👍
I’m sold. Buying oil cooler soon. 👍🏽
That's awesome to hear, have fun with the install. Thanks for watching!👍
Good job on the install and being detailed, I enjoyed watching and learning! I probably will never do this as I rarely will track my VB... but my concern would be all the coolers in the front, you lose efficiency with it. I know nothing is perfect and this is a solid solution overall, the numbers show it works very well, but that is a lot going on in the front now haha
Thanks for watching and glad to hear you enjoy these kind of videos. And yes your are correct there is a lot of things going on up front now. I was thinking of getting the Hella horns next, but not sure if that would be too much?
I personally think anything else up front would be too much, especially hella horns since you aren't getting performance out of those and it would be blocking some air flow. Again that's just me, but they do look cool and it's your build - the beauty of making it whatever you want it to be! Looking forward to more of your vids
i like the idea about not cutting. i live in Hawaii and hate the chance of rust
Same
I was thinking the same thing, no rust. I plan on keeping this car for a long time.
I agree with your, no rust!
Quick question do you ever plan on dropping the oil pan to see if the RTV is over done. Second question if there are small particles of RTV will it clog the oil cooler? And thank you for showing me this I was wondering if a front mount oil cooler would fit with the front mount intercooler. Great video none the less and great quality. Thanks again for everything.😊
Great question
Yeah good question would love to see input on this
I have never seen any particulates or and signs of RTV from any of my oil changes. looking at the design of the Oil Cooler sandwich plate, it appears to me that the oil is pumped through the filter first before it enters into the oil cooler, so I don't believe that the RTV would have a chance to clog the oil cooler core. I should probably drop the pan and check it out. I start on my RB26 build this Friday. I will see if I can find the time to drop the pan and look into my engine RTV. I have 3 other projects 1st from partnerships I have to complete videos for on my channel before I can look into this. Good question, thanks for your insight and channel support Jeremy!👍
@@JDMRightHandDrive absolutely right about it not getting into the oil cooler but I am always curious if there is RTV in my filter lol. Plus I’m scared to drop because I am pretty sure they will void warranty if they see it tampered with.
@@caniwave4087 yes I spoke with my dealership today and they said and I quote "we cannot drop or check for RTV until a warning light or check engine light come on. The only other way we will check as well is if you start hearing obvious signs that oil isnt being spread out." So basically they will not touch the car till rod knock or worse. So if you plan on doing it just do it because they won't warranty it until it becomes an actual irreversible problem.
SUPERB VIDEO!!! The temperature delta was what I was curious about! Great shots of the car in action too! I do have a couple questions. 1. What fuel are you pro tuned on? 2. When should an oil-air separator be utilized? Thanks in advance, I have had my '22 VB for two months now and I'm in love with it!
Next, the movement installed the transmission cooler
Thinking about adding one of these to my ‘23 since I live in Arizona. We have a good 4 months of 100°+ temps so anything that helps to keep temps lower.
I think its worth noting ideally your oil temp should hover at least around 200... on some large engines I used to work on it was preferable to stay around at least 215 to make sure there was absolutely no water. Yes it was straight 40 weight in those and I know different engine, different specs, but everything I've worked on generally likes to see around 215. Colder isnt always better.
I'd say you really should only do this upgrade if you actually hammer on it a lot or if it sees good track time.
Thanks for sharing your insight into this. With hard driving off camera several pulls from 20-100. Oil temps sit at 204. 🔧
@@JDMRightHandDrive That 204 deg F is probably right about where your oil thermostat becomes fully open to the cooler. 20 degrees is a pretty normal range for automotive thermostats, from just starting to open, to fully open. If yours is starting to open at 184 deg, then that 204 is right in there for the fully open temp. Just my guess!
100%. Optimal engine temp is 220-230 and running cold 190-200 is neither good for engine (optimal oil performance) nor power (track times). I have a post above mirroring what you said.
@@JDMRightHandDrive that is NOT optimal friend. Aim for 220+ especially if you are pushing it. This is a hugely missunderstood topic.
How hard would it be to add an oil psi gauge? It's ridiculous to me that a car like this doesn't have one.
I believe that the car does have a oil pressure gauge. The Cobb AP3 did not have a setting to see this before, I will check if the latest firmware update allowed this to be displayed. I might be wrong, but I was pretty sure this is the case.
@@JDMRightHandDrive my '22 Premium does not. Just the oil temperature.
Nice vid. 240. I got mine up to about 230, and IDK but i read that that’s WNL. I wonder how the new one keeps the temp. Too cold-not hot enough. ?
With more aggressive driving my car runs at 194. During several hard pulls 1-4 gear, the highest temps I achieved was 204.
Seems like that would make a huge mess when changing the oil, with the factory 'cup' missing where the oil filter sits. Otherwise, looks really nice. I'm thinking a bigger radiator might be better overall for simplicity (leaving the oil system as is), since sitting in traffic with no air flow over the oil cooler wouldn't really help much other than whatever breeze the radiator fans draws in. I do like the idea of an oil cooler though. I guess you could see benefits in either scenario - bigger radiator and better fans or an oil cooler.
I was thinking the same thing about the radiator. When is Koyo going to come out with a VB WRX radiator. And yes, I was also thinking the thermostat on the oil cooler should have a ring. Yes I see it potentially spilling oil everywhere. Next oil change I will twist off the oil fill cap and pull the plug. That should release the vacuum pressure and allow the oil filter to drain the oil I think. I will let it sit for 10 minutes draining before twisting the filter off and see what type of mess it makes.
You could probably wrap a cotton T-Shirt around the base to catch any oil that comes out (after doing what you mentioned first to let it drain as much as possible before loosening the filter). By the way, thanks for the detailed view of the parts and how they connect, etc. That's a big help to anyone doing something like this when you can't easily see what you're doing in tight places. @@JDMRightHandDrive
That’s what I did for my first oil change and I had no oil come out of the filter when I took it off.
I have the perrin oil cooler for my 21 wrx and the an fitting failed the one under the oil filter on the left side. My engine was stared of oil and I got rod knock.
I will definitely be keeping an eye on the entire system operation. Thanks for the heads up.
@@JDMRightHandDrive No problem dude! The shop I go to replaced the AN fitting and I'm waiting for the IAG600 to get here lol
Do those drive on ramps work with lowering springs? Can’t tell if this was before or after you did your springs.
I am still able to use the ramps with the lowering springs. But just barely.
if the valve doesn't open till 184. Why would the cooler affect oil temperature rising speed up until that point?
It restricts the oil flow until 184 meaning that oil is still circulating through the OC at a lesser amount. Spring full opens on thermostat at 184.
@@JDMRightHandDrive Ah, ok thanks!
Can this be mounted elsewhere, e.g. behind one of the fog light bezels?
You might me able to fit it behind the fog light bezel on the passenger side if you make some brackets. This wont work if you have a FMIC. Plus the fog light bezels don't have any air venting, you would have to modify the for air flow. Do you not like it sitting behind the front grille. Air flow is awesome there and the core is so thick and durable. I feel confident that it will hold up long-term there. My FMIC still looks perfect after 6 months on the car and does not even show any damage from road debris. The fins are perfect and look like new on both the FMIC and OC.
@@JDMRightHandDrive I'm probably over-engineering this, but I don't love the idea of overlapping with the radiator. Ideally, both the radiator and the oil cooler would be 100% exposed to fresh air. But TBH, this this is just me thinking things through in my head before pulling the trigger :)
You need an aos more than you need an oil cooler my guy…
I have one sitting on my shelf in the garage. I just have not had the free time to install it and make the video. That one will be coming soon, thanks for watching!👍
That was the first thing I did to my 09 wrx. Then cooling mod and this week an oil cooler from mishimoto. I love their customer support. I like the thermostatic plate.
So i am gonna start by saying that this is one of the most missunderstood topics there is. In fact, it is double counterintuitive. First, thicker oil runs cooler (takes longer to warm up and stay warm) and secondly, lower temps result in lower power. Do the searching yourselves, i could post links but i am not trying to prove anything to anyone, just pointing out some facts.
Optimal temps are different for different oils, but running 200F and running 230f can result in noticeable power increase with hotter oil temps. So this is NOT a mod for ppl who do not understand what they are doing and just lowering oil temperature from optimal range is not something that will help your engine or your times.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!👍
Great video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.