My dad said to me a few days ago, hey we haven't loaded shotgun shells in a long time. My response oh boy your in luck cause johnnys been on a 12ga reloading binge lately.
Waa12R wad is one of the best for lead and bismuth. I would try putting a mylar wrap in the wad then put in the shot. My favorite duck load is 2oz of bismuth in a Waa12R mylar wrap #4 bismuth with buffer no over shot card. Simple and devastating on ducks out to 40 yards.
Lookin good Sir! Don't sweat the velocity reading issues, only 25% to 50% of my scatter gat velocity readings are reliable. I'd say the ones you're getting are fine, and pretty consistent too. Don't waste too much energy on the "pressure issues" of straight Vs tapered. Experiment with it all you want(I like it when you do this!), but as long as you stay in the ball park of published data and you'll be ok. In the shotgun world, you rarely get any benefit out of pushing to or over max(possibly in slugs or close quarters combat loads, maybe). Think about it like throwing a hand full of flour or dried corn or whatever. If you gently toss it, it'll all land in about the same area, but won't "hit hard". If you pitch it like you're try to set the fast ball world record, it "hits harder" but spreads out all over the place. Most shot shell reloading tries to find the happy medium for whatever application, which is usually well within published load data. During load work up, assessing fired wads is an important part, if they are getting mangled, it may be a pressure sign, or just a bad choice of wad for the load, either way your patterns will likely suffer. The wads you've shown look fine from what I can see. Once you get your load worked out you can ignore your wads unless you run into problems down the line(random crappy patterns). You're on the right track and doing great! Keep up the good work! P.S.: Oh and the whole "being really into heavy set things" is just your inner Lcpl. coming out 😋 Semper Fi. there you motivated devil dog, Respectfully, Joe
If you want to fold crimp new hulls. I would recommend the BPI "super crimp starter" or something like that. It's a brass precrimp starter with sharp edges that get a good pre-crimp started on new hulls.
Sighted my KSG with slugs ,for buckshot ,same ozs’ ,,,,,,cool then adjust Reddot for center of ten inch circle How much bluedot ...end goal another prep. Nice to have ammo 4 different shotty s.its just a dang good hobby!
Happy Friday Johnny and everyone else. First off thank you for all you do. In your video where you talk about the pig getting out, doing what needed to be done, then the other pig freaking out, you touched briefly on not being ready. Was it because you raised them, or just the wheels fell off that day? Again, we all appreciate all you do and thank you for sharing all your knowledge and mistakes so we can all learn.
It was because of all the scrambling and rushing that day. A lot of small details weren't prepared and it was stressful. Staying up half the night skinning pigs while I had a video that was almost done didn't put me in the right mindset. It was a very heavy experience, but I never lost sight of the fact that the pigs were food. They get so big and eat so much food when they're up to slaughtering weight. I was happy to see them go. I'll definitely raise pigs again. I'll just take them to the slaughterhouse next time, if that option is available. I've got whatever experience or merit badge I was after. I'll leave it to the pros with the proper facilities from now on. Some of my favorite older laying hens might be a different story. They eat so little that they're going to be easy to justify as pets.
I know of some folks using overshot cards between the charge and the shot wad. It does two things, first it keeps the power from bleeding by the shot wad, the second thing it does is provide a way to pack the slower burning powers tighter for better ignition.
I was wondering if you could do a series on Cass bullet rifle rounds I think it would be interesting to see what you come up with. I cast for 223 and have found they are pretty accurate.
I know you have already talked about the "speed pump" feature but I'd be a little nervous about shooting a pump that appears to pump itself. Maybe it's because I don't understand how it operates and never fired one, it's just an odd thing to see. Sort of like an autoloader that doesn't finish the loading cycle.
I own 2 of these shotguns and it is the way winchester designed them. Winchester used to claim they were the fastest pump on the market because of the extemely fast followup shots. They are not the same as the model 12 but very similar. Been shooting my 2 Winchesters for over 30 years and for me, theres nothing better.
You are correct about droping charge. I use 24gr of proreach with rpx12 11/8 #7, Remington Gun Club hull. I get same performance as factory gun club. Reducing charge tightens pattern.
Buying the all ready primed hulls saves on the hazmat fees. So if you’re having troubles finding primers or not buying bulk you’re better off buying hulls this way. Another thing is that a lot of serious shooter that reload use american made primers is that they are easier on firing pins because of the metal they’re made from. Also the sizes vary and sometimes the brass needs to be swagged to get back after using smaller 209s.
This. I was just gonna say that BPI has a swage for this, but it's really one of those tools that's so ridiculously simple that it's easier to just make it.
I know you were being sarcastic, but you should do the 2 hour video discussion on your thoughts on where you're going with shot shell reloading. This series is great. Thanks for sharing. Happy new year.
Interesting to watch, you are asking lots of reasonable questions and finding out what is what. There is a lot of stuff I experimented with in the early 80's that this is reminding me about. All I asked of a turkey round was to give me a pattern at 50 yds that was dense enough to put enough shot into a head & neck to kill that bird. I used WW Supreme 3", forget what shot wt, with #6 plated lead shot. It put 13-20 pellets in the kill zone of neck/head on a 12" target, had a dense enough pattern with no big holes that it would do that across the target and catch head movement. We don't have to use steel for turkeys and upland birds here, yet, so, lead works well enough for me.
OK, this is my theory on the felt wad (and less crimp) giving less velocity: The rate of burn of the powder is a function of pressure. As pressure increases the rate of powder burn increases. The rate at which the pressure increases is a factor of how quickly the projectile assembly moves under the force of the combusting propellant. During setback (and the squishing of those felt wads), the pressure of the gasses aren't working against the total weight of the shot column, it's only working against the shot cup, the felt wads and whatever resistance the crimp can force down through the walls of the shot cup. This means that the felt wad on the bottom of the shot cup acts like a void, or extra case capacity and does not let the powder burn at its most ideal pressures. You can get the same effect, but more extremely, if you have very little or no crimp or a very light load: the powder just kinda *whoosh*es and the shot shell payload just ploops out the end of the barrel. Just my 2 cents. I've seen that last thing happen with lose crimps and lose shot columns.
One thing of note. Nobel has three "types" of 209 primers. 684, 686 and 688. I've heard people having problems with the 84 and 86 primers during the winter months when it gets below 40 but unable to confirm. Mostly light strikes and incomplete burns. Apparently yheyre meant for summer and fall months. Might be something to consider. Also cheddites use Winchester 209 data when cheddites aren't available.
Hmm ... maybe a bit of a test on hull life? one shot and done with a rolled crimp? Back when I did shot shell reloads I would get between 3-8 reloads with star crimps.
would have been nice to have a look at the spent primers, and those nobel sport primers are European made, witch are larger than our american primers, and since when did fiocchi start putting stars on the case heads of the hulls like the cheddites? All my Fiocchi hulls are stamped Fiocchi on the case head.
Do you find that the accuracy of the powder charge is less important in shotshells than when reloading metallic cartridges (6.5CM, 308, 6GT, etc)? ie you need 25.0 grains of Longshot and you pour in 24.75-25.25) a +- 0.25 grains difference than specified.
Please excuse my total lack of knowledge regarding shotshell loading, but one observance with the spent hauls which were roll- crimped is that they are so distorted, that I might question does that effect/distort the pattern? I would think you could get more than one firing and better results from star-crimpted hauls.
I have a question, i just got into reloading shot shells an just having purchased my youngest son a bb gun for Christmas an seeing how cheep the bb's are for that an so easy to get , i got to thinking has anyone tried loading the 177 cal steel bb's in a shot gun load ? I know it would work but don't know how good an mainly just curious
I found a 3D printed slitter that's sold in the UK. ruclips.net/video/zR-bnp2KN4/видео.html I would never have thought to mount the blades in that orientation. Spacing is key. BPI sells GAEP wad slitters, but they're not cheap.
Johnny, Cheddite is a French company and You can call it or pronounce it any way you want, But,, Cheddite is Pronounced in Europe "Cheee Deeeet". Now you can push what I said off a cliff.. hehehe.. -Dave
Johnny there is nothing unsafe about your already fired, open chamber shotgun jumping off the rest during load developement. Obviously not ideal but that is stupid bullsh*t that you shouldnt tolerate. Stop letting people dictate your thoughts and actions jeez. DONT GET IN THE TRAIN CAR JOHNNY
You're really diving deep into this one man. Been fascinating so far, keep it up!
My dad said to me a few days ago, hey we haven't loaded shotgun shells in a long time. My response oh boy your in luck cause johnnys been on a 12ga reloading binge lately.
I was NOT expecting that line at the end, 'bout killed me lmao
"This might go horribly wrong", the way to start a video from Johnny,,,, for me, the way I start my day
Great video, great series. Maybe mark the wads so you know what loading it was. This is a giant rabbit hole and I am enjoying the journey!
Johnny : "Tungsten is really heavy-set, and I'm into that"...., 😅!
Thin might be in,
but fat is where it's at.
Can't wait for the follow up. Learning more and more each episode.
Waa12R wad is one of the best for lead and bismuth. I would try putting a mylar wrap in the wad then put in the shot. My favorite duck load is 2oz of bismuth in a Waa12R mylar wrap #4 bismuth with buffer no over shot card. Simple and devastating on ducks out to 40 yards.
Lookin good Sir! Don't sweat the velocity reading issues, only 25% to 50% of my scatter gat velocity readings are reliable. I'd say the ones you're getting are fine, and pretty consistent too. Don't waste too much energy on the "pressure issues" of straight Vs tapered. Experiment with it all you want(I like it when you do this!), but as long as you stay in the ball park of published data and you'll be ok. In the shotgun world, you rarely get any benefit out of pushing to or over max(possibly in slugs or close quarters combat loads, maybe). Think about it like throwing a hand full of flour or dried corn or whatever. If you gently toss it, it'll all land in about the same area, but won't "hit hard". If you pitch it like you're try to set the fast ball world record, it "hits harder" but spreads out all over the place. Most shot shell reloading tries to find the happy medium for whatever application, which is usually well within published load data. During load work up, assessing fired wads is an important part, if they are getting mangled, it may be a pressure sign, or just a bad choice of wad for the load, either way your patterns will likely suffer. The wads you've shown look fine from what I can see. Once you get your load worked out you can ignore your wads unless you run into problems down the line(random crappy patterns). You're on the right track and doing great! Keep up the good work!
P.S.: Oh and the whole "being really into heavy set things" is just your inner Lcpl. coming out 😋
Semper Fi. there you motivated devil dog,
Respectfully,
Joe
you could chop down your longer pre-shot hulls and make some mini load? wink wink
If you want to fold crimp new hulls. I would recommend the BPI "super crimp starter" or something like that. It's a brass precrimp starter with sharp edges that get a good pre-crimp started on new hulls.
Sighted my KSG with slugs ,for buckshot ,same ozs’ ,,,,,,cool then adjust Reddot for center of ten inch circle
How much bluedot ...end goal another prep. Nice to have ammo 4 different shotty s.its just a dang good hobby!
Lol the last line. Nice
This set is for the heavy set.
Morning Sir, wishing you a productive and prosperous New Year
Happy Friday Johnny and everyone else. First off thank you for all you do. In your video where you talk about the pig getting out, doing what needed to be done, then the other pig freaking out, you touched briefly on not being ready. Was it because you raised them, or just the wheels fell off that day? Again, we all appreciate all you do and thank you for sharing all your knowledge and mistakes so we can all learn.
It was because of all the scrambling and rushing that day. A lot of small details weren't prepared and it was stressful. Staying up half the night skinning pigs while I had a video that was almost done didn't put me in the right mindset.
It was a very heavy experience, but I never lost sight of the fact that the pigs were food. They get so big and eat so much food when they're up to slaughtering weight. I was happy to see them go.
I'll definitely raise pigs again. I'll just take them to the slaughterhouse next time, if that option is available. I've got whatever experience or merit badge I was after. I'll leave it to the pros with the proper facilities from now on.
Some of my favorite older laying hens might be a different story. They eat so little that they're going to be easy to justify as pets.
I know of some folks using overshot cards between the charge and the shot wad. It does two things, first it keeps the power from bleeding by the shot wad, the second thing it does is provide a way to pack the slower burning powers tighter for better ignition.
You should do tungsten 10ga loads. Heavy and wide. Keep lubing those roll crimps brotha 😆
I was wondering if you could do a series on Cass bullet rifle rounds I think it would be interesting to see what you come up with. I cast for 223 and have found they are pretty accurate.
I know you have already talked about the "speed pump" feature but I'd be a little nervous about shooting a pump that appears to pump itself. Maybe it's because I don't understand how it operates and never fired one, it's just an odd thing to see. Sort of like an autoloader that doesn't finish the loading cycle.
I own 2 of these shotguns and it is the way winchester designed them. Winchester used to claim they were the fastest pump on the market because of the extemely fast followup shots. They are not the same as the model 12 but very similar. Been shooting my 2 Winchesters for over 30 years and for me, theres nothing better.
Good videos
You are correct about droping charge. I use 24gr of proreach with rpx12 11/8 #7, Remington Gun Club hull. I get same performance as factory gun club. Reducing charge tightens pattern.
You can make slugs from bird shot also, just need the mold and kettle
Buying the all ready primed hulls saves on the hazmat fees. So if you’re having troubles finding primers or not buying bulk you’re better off buying hulls this way.
Another thing is that a lot of serious shooter that reload use american made primers is that they are easier on firing pins because of the metal they’re made from. Also the sizes vary and sometimes the brass needs to be swagged to get back after using smaller 209s.
This. I was just gonna say that BPI has a swage for this, but it's really one of those tools that's so ridiculously simple that it's easier to just make it.
I know you were being sarcastic, but you should do the 2 hour video discussion on your thoughts on where you're going with shot shell reloading. This series is great. Thanks for sharing. Happy new year.
Interesting to watch, you are asking lots of reasonable questions and finding out what is what. There is a lot of stuff I experimented with in the early 80's that this is reminding me about. All I asked of a turkey round was to give me a pattern at 50 yds that was dense enough to put enough shot into a head & neck to kill that bird. I used WW Supreme 3", forget what shot wt, with #6 plated lead shot. It put 13-20 pellets in the kill zone of neck/head on a 12" target, had a dense enough pattern with no big holes that it would do that across the target and catch head movement. We don't have to use steel for turkeys and upland birds here, yet, so, lead works well enough for me.
OK, this is my theory on the felt wad (and less crimp) giving less velocity:
The rate of burn of the powder is a function of pressure.
As pressure increases the rate of powder burn increases.
The rate at which the pressure increases is a factor of how quickly the projectile assembly moves under the force of the combusting propellant.
During setback (and the squishing of those felt wads), the pressure of the gasses aren't working against the total weight of the shot column, it's only working against the shot cup, the felt wads and whatever resistance the crimp can force down through the walls of the shot cup.
This means that the felt wad on the bottom of the shot cup acts like a void, or extra case capacity and does not let the powder burn at its most ideal pressures.
You can get the same effect, but more extremely, if you have very little or no crimp or a very light load: the powder just kinda *whoosh*es and the shot shell payload just ploops out the end of the barrel.
Just my 2 cents. I've seen that last thing happen with lose crimps and lose shot columns.
Those TPS wads are tough . The recovered wads seem to have less damage to them .
Ugh...lol never did shotgun. And only reason I would load would be for turkey. Now you got me thinking about trying... more $$ bye bye. 👋🤣
With 28 ga. shells over $20/ box, handloading makes sense. I can load them for $8/box.
One thing of note. Nobel has three "types" of 209 primers. 684, 686 and 688. I've heard people having problems with the 84 and 86 primers during the winter months when it gets below 40 but unable to confirm. Mostly light strikes and incomplete burns. Apparently yheyre meant for summer and fall months. Might be something to consider. Also cheddites use Winchester 209 data when cheddites aren't available.
Hmm ... maybe a bit of a test on hull life? one shot and done with a rolled crimp? Back when I did shot shell reloads I would get between 3-8 reloads with star crimps.
would have been nice to have a look at the spent primers, and those nobel sport primers are European made, witch are larger than our american primers, and since when did fiocchi start putting stars on the case heads of the hulls like the cheddites? All my Fiocchi hulls are stamped Fiocchi on the case head.
Great
Do you find that the accuracy of the powder charge is less important in shotshells than when reloading metallic cartridges (6.5CM, 308, 6GT, etc)? ie you need 25.0 grains of Longshot and you pour in 24.75-25.25) a +- 0.25 grains difference than specified.
Oh my, you had to go there...
What game are you trying to tailor these reloads for? Also what choke constriction are you using?
Please excuse my total lack of knowledge regarding shotshell loading, but one observance with the spent hauls which were roll- crimped is that they are so distorted, that I might question does that effect/distort the pattern? I would think you could get more than one firing and better results from star-crimpted hauls.
The fiocchi primers is hotter primer the nobile sport is a more medium powder prime used a lot on 20 guage reloading
Maybe color marking wads with different sharpies to see ......
The directions for that chronograph say shotgun muzzle to crony 3-6 feet for shotgun.
I have a question, i just got into reloading shot shells an just having purchased my youngest son a bb gun for Christmas an seeing how cheep the bb's are for that an so easy to get , i got to thinking has anyone tried loading the 177 cal steel bb's in a shot gun load ? I know it would work but don't know how good an mainly just curious
How far away is the chrony from the muzzle?
95% of your subs have checked out on this series.
Yeah, 12:50 I'll check back in down the road, see if he's made a decision.
See now I heard chedite primers were the ones oversized.
Hey Johnny…where did you go?…are you posting on other social media platforms…I’m worried about not seeing your videos…hope all is well 🙏🙏🙏
👍🏼🤘🏼💪🏼
I found a 3D printed slitter that's sold in the UK. ruclips.net/video/zR-bnp2KN4/видео.html I would never have thought to mount the blades in that orientation. Spacing is key.
BPI sells GAEP wad slitters, but they're not cheap.
Johnny, Cheddite is a French company and You can call it or pronounce it any way you want, But,, Cheddite is Pronounced in Europe "Cheee Deeeet". Now you can push what I said off a cliff.. hehehe.. -Dave
😊👍
Are you ok???
😀😃👍‼️
The black on the outside of the wad could be powder residue from gas blowing past the wad ?
... and it could also be the wad scrubbing fouling from prior shots.
Wheres Johnny? Anybody know?
You will need to hold your gun, just like you were hunting, when do your final sighting in. If you do not, your impact point will be low.
Claybuster wads are the cheapest wads. The poorest made wad. And under size made wad.
Best comment wins a Snipe Hunt with JRB shooting these shells. See ya there!
Johnny there is nothing unsafe about your already fired, open chamber shotgun jumping off the rest during load developement. Obviously not ideal but that is stupid bullsh*t that you shouldnt tolerate. Stop letting people dictate your thoughts and actions jeez.
DONT GET IN THE TRAIN CAR JOHNNY
But the man in the uniform said they have candy!
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC
🤦♂️