For reference you do not need to remove the calliper carrier! Just undo the two 7mm hex bolts on the pad carrier, disc can easily come off, plenty of room! Just make sure you have a 7mm hex head as not many tool kits or hex head sets have them.
Not necessarily true, I just attempted this on my wife’s 2016 A3 S - Line and the rotors would not come off as the carrier was keeping it from being removed. Mind you we are in Canada
@@Emilio-it7tk Needs to be the S3, the offset on the hub is different on the A3 making the hat of the rotor deeper and fouling up when you tried to remove it !
The caliper and the Pad holder is possible to part while on the car. You will need to remove the spring up front and on the back side (those studs you lubed) under two small plastic caps there is a 7mm hex screw. Remove those and the caliper will come of.
You should warn for this..... I had a terrible time following your video too, until I found a video of someone who actually knew what he was doing... maybe even take the video down cause it just doesn't do any good this way.
You should wire brush the hub dry and clean it till the surface is smooth so the rotor sits even. If you don’t you will feel slight vibrations or pulsing when braking
is that true? then why does the piston have all the holes to rotate it while pushing? thanks for the info that was my concern before doing my rear brakes on my Mk7.5 2018 Golf R, thanks
Can you wind motor backwith out computre connicting and than press specail tool to press piston back or not in electric hand break or you of to use computer to wind piston on these cars
You see the two rubber pads behind pad holder? there is one at the top one at the bottom (you can see the top one at 1:40) they have a plastic plug on them, remove them you'll find a hex screw in each one, remove the screw then remove the spring in the front of the pad holder, that's it!
Thank you for this video and the comments, I couldn't get my head in there to see what size or kind of bolt it was holding the caliper on. 7mm hex is what it was.
I enjoyed your video, very relaxing :) My question is, on my 2017 mk7 golf 1.4 tsi, rear brake pads completely finished after 30.000 kms but fronts still stay like new. Do you have any idea what might be causing this? I heard some people say it`s because of electronic parking brake but I`m not sure. Thanks
Oof, and it's just one side? Both left and right? Sometimes that's indicative of an E-Brake issue. You can take the rotors to a shop and see if you have warping but again, that usually doesn't effect both sides. I'm not really an expert here but in your shoes, I'd probably bleed brakes, calibrate E-Brake, replace pads & rotors and then go back to normal driving and if it happens again, then have a professional look at it. OOH maybe when the brake pad carrier is off, you can make sure the pistons aren't stuck, use a wind-back tool and make sure that the pad carrier bolt has a good amount of grease on it.
@@AdamChandler86 Yes, both sides have almost same amount of wear. I don’t think there’s a problem actually. Car drives well without hesitation, I mean it cruises smoothly. I’ll take it to VW service soon for pad replacement. I’ll ask them if it’s normal or caused by any external factor. Because I read from other people which they have same thing(rear brakes finishing sooner than fronts) with their electronic hand braked vws. Imo, when you use hillholder or activated electronic hand brake, it releases the brake after some time of clutching point. There is a slight delay which might cause such wear. I don’t use it often but maybe previous owner was using it without thinking. I can’t blame him but obviously vw’s electronic braking is a technology to avoid.
Can you wind piston back with out computer connecting on and than press piston back with specail tool to press piston back or you can damage motor or piston in caliper electric handbreak explain me please mate thankyou very much
The electric handbrake module I know some have or have tried to do it manually. It’s just not advised. If you can find someone who has a coding tool computer, it makes the job much easier.
@@AdamChandler86 i have done it is easy with out scanner i have winded back no problem it is working perfict mate anyway thank you mate you dont nead scanner you can do with out scanner
My RS3 has the exact same calipers in the rear as your Golf R lol. This was quite helpful! I've seen a few videos where the retaining clip comes out. Your way of doing it seems pretty straight forward. Just gotta hope I don't chip any paint off my red calipers haha!
@@AdamChandler86 I’m surprised you didn’t have to remove that retaining clip. I guess that’s just for if you do pads only. I’m gonna try and avoid it but when I pry the pads out I guess be gentle haha! Luckily no rust down here in Florida lol
Hey dude. I've just done my front brakes on my Mk7 GTI and gonna now tackle the back. Please advise on weather the rear piston needs to be rotated and pushed at the same time or if it just needs to be pushed back in without rotation. I have the e-brake set up and the coding to retract the motor so that's all good.
@@joshua4859 On types with EPB, the piston pushes back, once the EPB is in service mode. It doesn’t have the threaded piston like a std handbrake model.
Hi I’m pretty sure I screwed up my right parking brake now. When I go to set my parking brake the brake on the right just constantly sounds like it’s engaging and I also have a “Fault:Electronic Parking Brake” on my dash. Any advice?!
Perhaps reset/re-do the E-Brake VCDS/Vag-Com steps again and make sure you did everything? This Wiki goes through the process - wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Working_on_the_Electro-Mechanical_Parking_Brake_(EPB)
I'm very sorry guys that I don't have the OBD11 instructions but being an iOS user, that is Android only so I use Vag-Com instead which the instructions are in the description. Click "show more" on description for links to everything I used to make this possible. The up front investment is a few hundred bucks but obviously, if you plan on staying with Volkswagen, these are great tools that will last you for decades.
I easily got the caliper off with a hex wrench and replaced the pads. Thoughni was unable too get the carrier off too change the rotors... now i have 200$ worth of rotors and a 75% done brake job🫠
If you are removing the caliper, you probably have to compress the disk. Most people shouldn't just replace the rotor and not the pads but it can be done. The compression is usually because the new pads are thicker. The new rotor will also be thicker by a couple of millimeter. Best to rent a caliper compression kit just in case you need it.
For reference you do not need to remove the calliper carrier! Just undo the two 7mm hex bolts on the pad carrier, disc can easily come off, plenty of room! Just make sure you have a 7mm hex head as not many tool kits or hex head sets have them.
Not necessarily true, I just attempted this on my wife’s 2016 A3 S - Line and the rotors would not come off as the carrier was keeping it from being removed. Mind you we are in Canada
@@Emilio-it7tk Needs to be the S3, the offset on the hub is different on the A3 making the hat of the rotor deeper and fouling up when you tried to remove it !
The caliper and the Pad holder is possible to part while on the car. You will need to remove the spring up front and on the back side (those studs you lubed) under two small plastic caps there is a 7mm hex screw. Remove those and the caliper will come of.
thank you so much. I had a terrible time with this. I hope others can benefit from your comment. Glad I don't have to do this for a few more years :)
You should warn for this..... I had a terrible time following your video too, until I found a video of someone who actually knew what he was doing... maybe even take the video down cause it just doesn't do any good this way.
You should wire brush the hub dry and clean it till the surface is smooth so the rotor sits even. If you don’t you will feel slight vibrations or pulsing when braking
Just a FYI that’s not a twist caliper, all you have to do is simply depress the piston in.
that is good to know
is that true? then why does the piston have all the holes to rotate it while pushing? thanks for the info that was my concern before doing my rear brakes on my Mk7.5 2018 Golf R, thanks
This is not true at all
Can you wind motor backwith out computre connicting and than press specail tool to press piston back or not in electric hand break or you of to use computer to wind piston on these cars
Also that plastic piston for the electronic brake can be gently pushed in
You see the two rubber pads behind pad holder? there is one at the top one at the bottom (you can see the top one at 1:40) they have a plastic plug on them, remove them you'll find a hex screw in each one, remove the screw then remove the spring in the front of the pad holder, that's it!
I just hope people read the comments and see this before taking this up. It's the first time I"ve done the brakes on this car.
Adam Chandler you should find out before making this video😉
Is that all you need to change the pads?
Yes
Thank you for this video and the comments, I couldn't get my head in there to see what size or kind of bolt it was holding the caliper on. 7mm hex is what it was.
Thanks for making video, a big help to my son and I today when changing rear pads without special tools.
I enjoyed your video, very relaxing :) My question is, on my 2017 mk7 golf 1.4 tsi, rear brake pads completely finished after 30.000 kms but fronts still stay like new. Do you have any idea what might be causing this? I heard some people say it`s because of electronic parking brake but I`m not sure. Thanks
Oof, and it's just one side? Both left and right? Sometimes that's indicative of an E-Brake issue. You can take the rotors to a shop and see if you have warping but again, that usually doesn't effect both sides. I'm not really an expert here but in your shoes, I'd probably bleed brakes, calibrate E-Brake, replace pads & rotors and then go back to normal driving and if it happens again, then have a professional look at it. OOH maybe when the brake pad carrier is off, you can make sure the pistons aren't stuck, use a wind-back tool and make sure that the pad carrier bolt has a good amount of grease on it.
@@AdamChandler86 Yes, both sides have almost same amount of wear. I don’t think there’s a problem actually. Car drives well without hesitation, I mean it cruises smoothly. I’ll take it to VW service soon for pad replacement. I’ll ask them if it’s normal or caused by any external factor. Because I read from other people which they have same thing(rear brakes finishing sooner than fronts) with their electronic hand braked vws. Imo, when you use hillholder or activated electronic hand brake, it releases the brake after some time of clutching point. There is a slight delay which might cause such wear. I don’t use it often but maybe previous owner was using it without thinking. I can’t blame him but obviously vw’s electronic braking is a technology to avoid.
Can you wind piston back with out computer connecting on and than press piston back with specail tool to press piston back or you can damage motor or piston in caliper electric handbreak explain me please mate thankyou very much
The electric handbrake module I know some have or have tried to do it manually. It’s just not advised. If you can find someone who has a coding tool computer, it makes the job much easier.
@@AdamChandler86 i have done it is easy with out scanner i have winded back no problem it is working perfict mate anyway thank you mate you dont nead scanner you can do with out scanner
You can see your not a mechanic haha props for you tho doing it yourself
Is it only the front one wheel that has a pas wear sensor on the mk7 R or do all 4 wheels have pad sensors ?
Yes-sir, no pad sensor on the rear.
My RS3 has the exact same calipers in the rear as your Golf R lol. This was quite helpful! I've seen a few videos where the retaining clip comes out. Your way of doing it seems pretty straight forward. Just gotta hope I don't chip any paint off my red calipers haha!
I'd be nervous as well with that red paint. Be careful!
@@AdamChandler86 I’m legit gonna wrap and hold each caliper with a rag haha! Hopefully it goes nice and smooth next week when I do it!
@@AdamChandler86 I’m surprised you didn’t have to remove that retaining clip. I guess that’s just for if you do pads only. I’m gonna try and avoid it but when I pry the pads out I guess be gentle haha! Luckily no rust down here in Florida lol
Your a legend! Thanks for the tip with rotating the piston to depress it!! That had me swearing before I watched this
LOL> we’ve all been there!
Hey dude. I've just done my front brakes on my Mk7 GTI and gonna now tackle the back. Please advise on weather the rear piston needs to be rotated and pushed at the same time or if it just needs to be pushed back in without rotation. I have the e-brake set up and the coding to retract the motor so that's all good.
@@joshua4859 On types with EPB, the piston pushes back, once the EPB is in service mode. It doesn’t have the threaded piston like a std handbrake model.
Is the electronic release with VAG-COM essential? what happens without it?
You only need VAG-COM if you have an electronic E-Brake. If you have a hand brake, you can do this w/o the software.
@@AdamChandler86 I got a question. What if your replacing the rear bearing and ABS sensor, do you still need that software?
Hi I’m pretty sure I screwed up my right parking brake now. When I go to set my parking brake the brake on the right just constantly sounds like it’s engaging and I also have a “Fault:Electronic Parking Brake” on my dash. Any advice?!
Perhaps reset/re-do the E-Brake VCDS/Vag-Com steps again and make sure you did everything? This Wiki goes through the process - wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Working_on_the_Electro-Mechanical_Parking_Brake_(EPB)
I'm very sorry guys that I don't have the OBD11 instructions but being an iOS user, that is Android only so I use Vag-Com instead which the instructions are in the description. Click "show more" on description for links to everything I used to make this possible. The up front investment is a few hundred bucks but obviously, if you plan on staying with Volkswagen, these are great tools that will last you for decades.
Thanks now I know which bolts loosen the calipers Pistons
SWEET.
I found your video really helpful. Thank you!
Have you connect the car to battery charger after turn off? I do not have such thing on hand.
I easily got the caliper off with a hex wrench and replaced the pads. Thoughni was unable too get the carrier off too change the rotors... now i have 200$ worth of rotors and a 75% done brake job🫠
Carrier bolts are tightened to 200ft lb if you’re wondering why you can’t get them off put a little extra force into it
Dude I have golf R rear calipers for my GTI
My GTI has manual Ebrake
Any way to make this work?
I have no idea. How did you manage that? Just buy Golf R rear brakes?
Hi do I need to de compress the piston if I'm just changing the disc with no pads?
If you are removing the caliper, you probably have to compress the disk. Most people shouldn't just replace the rotor and not the pads but it can be done. The compression is usually because the new pads are thicker. The new rotor will also be thicker by a couple of millimeter. Best to rent a caliper compression kit just in case you need it.
OK thanks
Am I able to use the 200$ rosstech or do I get the pro for 600$
You won't need the Pro for this. There's an android app called OBDELEVEN that's cheaper that a lot of people are buying instead now.
I sure hope you bought a obdeleven it’s about $500 cheaper and licensed by the Volkswagen Group aka VAG😂
Can find it for a dollar cheaper on ecs tuning
Hi Adam. What adapter size did you use to press back in the caliper? Was it size 7? Thanks
7 sounds right. Honestly I can't remember. I just tried a few from the kit until it fit.
@@AdamChandler86 Its a 6.
What is the black stuff you're putting on?
Hi. Anti-Sieze. I live in a very high rust area so this keeps the rotor from getting stuck to the hub.
Bro what is that you brushed on after you cleaned the hub???
Anti-Seize. Thanks for asking. Lots of rust up here so it makes removing the rotor simpler.
@@AdamChandler86 damn sorry I’m years late but thanks!!!
Dude, what's all the shit in yer trunk?
Thx a lot.
Why do you have an OnlyFans account lol.
Gotta make that money!
@@AdamChandler86 with your automotive content or your body 😂? OnlyFans is really a platform for Eros to take place my dude.
I post photos of motorcycles. It’s going great!