always wonderful to see a PRO at work. They know exactly what they are doing and exactly why they are doing it ! I picked up a couple of nice tips; THANK YOU !
Bleed process for Shimano 12 speed is far easier than 11 speed. Shimanos process says to draw fluid though and then bleed levers at three different angles in a work stand. The 3 angles correspond to internal shapes in calipers to ensure no bubbles are lodged anywhere. All of this basically means the process is simpler (no need for a drip bottle at the caliper) and it is super reliable.
Great video though I differ on two points which might be helpful for some to note ... Brake oil contamination is more likely to be at the bottom of the circuit - grime introduced by retracting pistons and sinking with gravity - so you are better to start with oil in the funnel and pushing it down with the lever to empty the old oil at the bottom first until clear. Do not use grease on the brake pad bolt threads, use anti-seize.
I think this way might be better to prevent bubbles to be trapped in the process, though? I would set the bike level, the higher rear might be the reason the level of the fluid of the rear brake is higher...
@@DR_1_1 clearing air is a separate issue to clearing contaminant - start with flushing old oil out at the bottom - once you are happy based on volume extracted and the oil colour then you can reverse the flow and pump new oil from the bottom. Basically from the bottom you have hydraulic pressure + air rising and from the top you have hydraulic pressure and yes it is harder to get the air out of the rear circuit
19:10 is excellent advice for those of us that like to work on our own bikes. Getting the “pad axle” through the pads and spring is so much easier this way.
To avoid getting any air extra air in the system I like to put a small amount of fluid in the funnel, then I pull a small amount of fluid (with any air) back out, flick the hose to get the bubbles to go up in the syringe before pushing the fresh fluid in. Any air bubbles end up in the top of the syringe, and not into the system.
Thanks for this video, I learned a lot and remembered a lot that I had forgotten like my 6 year old rotors!! um I didn't need fancy digital vernier calipers to see that the disc was visibly thinner 😳🚴♀🚴🚴 Safe to say they are now in the bin and replacements on the way.
Illustrative video, but there are more details to considerate about purge brake systems. One of them (and maybe the most important to me) is first remove brake calipers and clean pistons after purge them. Caliper has to be vertical. This ensures that the air is removed.
What causes brakes to lock up? I have a Specialized Stumpjumper & my rear wheel has locked up on me twice in 2.5 years. I don't even ride this bike as much. Can it be from sitting in garage? Heat? I had it tuned up a 2 years ago and addressed this issue at the time as well.
Shimano hydraulic disc brakes are fortunately easy and straightforward to work on and in most conditions they work really well. However, this winter has been really cold here in Finland with temperatures dropping below -20 degrees Celsius for several weeks. I find Shimano disc brakes (both road and MTB) don't work very optimally any more at those temperatures. There is no more lever free stroke, the brakes bite almost immediately as you throw the lever. I guess this is because of fluid viscosity. The bigger problem is that the pistons don't retract back enough after a few lever pulls and the brakes start dragging. The pistons don't even retract back when you bring the bike inside to warm up. The only thing you can do is to take out the pads and push the pistons back in. This kind of behaviour also happens with almost brand-new brakes, not just old and dirty. Do you or Scott have experience about this and what could be done to prevent the brakes from dragging in the coldest of temps?
Am i a massive hack for bleeding with my wheel in? i like really short lever throw and on a setup with no freestroke adjustment it just doesnt feel right otherwise.
Because using different tightening torques affects the brake alignment and could potentially cause rubbing, its precisely why you SHOULD use a torque wrench to get the same tightness and disc spacing every time. If you undo any bolt on the roadside you should always be re-checking when you get home. He mentions 20 Nm but that seems way to high, thats probably why he has had the issue.
@@davidarthur Fair enough. It's worth pointing out that dabblers should pop open the lever bleed port (to which the funnel is attached) BEFORE pushing the pistons. Otherwise, it is possible to perforate the rubber bladder in the lever if there is too much brake fluid in the system. Thought could be a costly mistake that is easy to avoid!
Nice video but I am a certified Shimano Service Center PROFESSIONAL mechanic and have been for donkeys years...... bleed my own brakes(on the car) and prefer RIM BRAKES FOREVER!!!
@@rogercmerriman Same, I don't do it enough to always remember the process but the way Scott showed made it look far easier than I thought, but yeah the cost of learning and buying all the kit for once a year max probably isn't worth it
@@davidarthur the other problem personally is my ability do diy etc unless very simple has fallen off a cliff since the brain injury the posh term is executive function lucky to have a good bike shop 5 mins walk away. Only down side is well makes maintenance more expensive!
always wonderful to see a PRO at work. They know exactly what they are doing and exactly why they are doing it ! I picked up a couple of nice tips; THANK YOU !
That was the most easy to follow brake bleed instructions I've seen so far!
Thank you David and Scott for this amazing content.
Been doing brakes for years, awesome tip with the 2 minute cantering pistons trick. Will try that next time. Great informative "how to" video
Great video and very envious of Scott's workshop. Wish my garage looked that clean, tidy and organised.
Bleed process for Shimano 12 speed is far easier than 11 speed.
Shimanos process says to draw fluid though and then bleed levers at three different angles in a work stand. The 3 angles correspond to internal shapes in calipers to ensure no bubbles are lodged anywhere.
All of this basically means the process is simpler (no need for a drip bottle at the caliper) and it is super reliable.
Great video though I differ on two points which might be helpful for some to note ... Brake oil contamination is more likely to be at the bottom of the circuit - grime introduced by retracting pistons and sinking with gravity - so you are better to start with oil in the funnel and pushing it down with the lever to empty the old oil at the bottom first until clear. Do not use grease on the brake pad bolt threads, use anti-seize.
Totally agree with this. Flush out from the piston end first, otherwise you're pushing dirty oil up through the system.
I think this way might be better to prevent bubbles to be trapped in the process, though?
I would set the bike level, the higher rear might be the reason the level of the fluid of the rear brake is higher...
@@DR_1_1 clearing air is a separate issue to clearing contaminant - start with flushing old oil out at the bottom - once you are happy based on volume extracted and the oil colour then you can reverse the flow and pump new oil from the bottom. Basically from the bottom you have hydraulic pressure + air rising and from the top you have hydraulic pressure and yes it is harder to get the air out of the rear circuit
19:10 is excellent advice for those of us that like to work on our own bikes. Getting the “pad axle” through the pads and spring is so much easier this way.
Hi David
Very informative video as usual with much needed information 👍🚴♂️
Glad it was helpful!
Nice walkthrough, thanks a lot for that! Does also help me with my Campa DBs.
Great video! Some very good tips there, thanks!
Brill vid mate, really good conversational style - i do this for a job and i still have learned a bit from watching him. Proper pro.
good idea on the "pre-centering" tip.
Thanks guys for another great video, which bleeding kit are you using here?
To avoid getting any air extra air in the system I like to put a small amount of fluid in the funnel, then I pull a small amount of fluid (with any air) back out, flick the hose to get the bubbles to go up in the syringe before pushing the fresh fluid in. Any air bubbles end up in the top of the syringe, and not into the system.
Really good video, super informative and thorough 👍
Thanks for this video, I learned a lot and remembered a lot that I had forgotten like my 6 year old rotors!! um I didn't need fancy digital vernier calipers to see that the disc was visibly thinner 😳🚴♀🚴🚴 Safe to say they are now in the bin and replacements on the way.
Awesome video 🤘
Awesome video and mechanic💯👌🤝! Please more mechanical videos with that mechanic🙏
More to come!
Perfect video congratulations from🇦🇹🇦🇹🇦🇹✌️✌️✌️
Illustrative video, but there are more details to considerate about purge brake systems. One of them (and maybe the most important to me) is first remove brake calipers and clean pistons after purge them. Caliper has to be vertical. This ensures that the air is removed.
Good idea to grease those thru axles as well. Experienced once that one of axles were pretty stuck.
Many people over tighten axels. They should be tightened firmly, but not hard.
I’ve got the DT Swiss axles with levers, so overtightening is not the issue. No problem loosening it, but just wasn’t able to pull it out of the hub.
Loved this video great content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Is this an advert for having rim brakes?
Yes, or for mechanical discs at least.
"We start with the rear!" He said. I´m from central europe and that would be my front! :D Good video! Thanks :)
Ha ha yes, most Brits run their brakes Moto style :)
@@davidarthur Do new bikes come with the front brake mounted on the right, too? Also chainrings on the right side then, logically?
When ever ive used the bleed block a get way to much lever travel when finished bleeding
What causes brakes to lock up? I have a Specialized Stumpjumper & my rear wheel has locked up on me twice in 2.5 years. I don't even ride this bike as much. Can it be from sitting in garage? Heat? I had it tuned up a 2 years ago and addressed this issue at the time as well.
Amazed no mention of the tiny olive on the lever port screw......
Shimano hydraulic disc brakes are fortunately easy and straightforward to work on and in most conditions they work really well. However, this winter has been really cold here in Finland with temperatures dropping below -20 degrees Celsius for several weeks. I find Shimano disc brakes (both road and MTB) don't work very optimally any more at those temperatures. There is no more lever free stroke, the brakes bite almost immediately as you throw the lever. I guess this is because of fluid viscosity. The bigger problem is that the pistons don't retract back enough after a few lever pulls and the brakes start dragging. The pistons don't even retract back when you bring the bike inside to warm up. The only thing you can do is to take out the pads and push the pistons back in. This kind of behaviour also happens with almost brand-new brakes, not just old and dirty. Do you or Scott have experience about this and what could be done to prevent the brakes from dragging in the coldest of temps?
Omg -20 degrees
Am i a massive hack for bleeding with my wheel in? i like really short lever throw and on a setup with no freestroke adjustment it just doesnt feel right otherwise.
Because using different tightening torques affects the brake alignment and could potentially cause rubbing, its precisely why you SHOULD use a torque wrench to get the same tightness and disc spacing every time. If you undo any bolt on the roadside you should always be re-checking when you get home. He mentions 20 Nm but that seems way to high, thats probably why he has had the issue.
i cant not connect my bake line on right/rear handle :S how to you tighten them? the line
15:00 Rear one done? Really : I didn't see you put the master cap bolt back on the lever after removing the funnel .
I did my first Shimano brake bleeds a few weeks ago. Nothing to it. Dont be afraid to try it.
Instructions unclear, im now in hospital
Xd
Why is the rear brake on the left lever? Is this a British thing?
If the pads are 50% worn, how did he get the bleed block in? No mention of pushing in the pistons?
We did discuss this afterwards because luckily the bleed blocks pushed in without any trouble
@@davidarthur Fair enough. It's worth pointing out that dabblers should pop open the lever bleed port (to which the funnel is attached) BEFORE pushing the pistons. Otherwise, it is possible to perforate the rubber bladder in the lever if there is too much brake fluid in the system. Thought could be a costly mistake that is easy to avoid!
Hi is the process the same for Ultegra 11 speed?
Any chance of a link to the equipment used such as syringe, tubing and funnels?
Thanks!
The normal recommendation is to inspect the steerer tube every six months. Nobody is doing that though are they. It's too difficult.
I wonder if the newest Ultegra calipers work with 11 sp Ultegra Di2 hydraulic brifters?
They're compatible.
Yes - I'm using that configuration on my bike. Works fine 👍
Yes OK to mix the two.
If my pads have glazing on them i will lightly sand the glaze off before reinstalling.
Merci!
Where's Jim??
I love disc brakes but do you remember when it took just 10 mins to install and adjust rim pads?
I uese titanium brake pad pins - they do not corode
I will say shimano’s bleeding process is asking for a mineral oil spill to happen
If this was a rim brake the same operation would take.. oh wait. You don't have to bleed those :D
Hydraulic rim brakes exist, SRAM and Magura have made them before.
I agree on rim brakes for road being fine but mtb I do like the hydraulics better. I started on cantilevers so Ive used them all.
Looking at the clean fluid, I think I'll wait 10 years before doing that.
MTBs might be another story, though...
Nice video but I am a certified Shimano Service Center PROFESSIONAL mechanic and have been for donkeys years...... bleed my own brakes(on the car) and prefer RIM BRAKES FOREVER!!!
😮
"easy" but 33 minutes lol
It's not long because it's difficult, but thorough and packed full of useful tips like checking pads and rotors etc
He’s taking time to walk through the steps…he’s absolutely spot on with that caliper and piston setup.. prrrrrrfect.
@@davidarthurit’s a bike shop job for me personally requires specific tools plus space I don’t have and needs doing so infrequently and so on.
@@rogercmerriman Same, I don't do it enough to always remember the process but the way Scott showed made it look far easier than I thought, but yeah the cost of learning and buying all the kit for once a year max probably isn't worth it
@@davidarthur the other problem personally is my ability do diy etc unless very simple has fallen off a cliff since the brain injury the posh term is executive function lucky to have a good bike shop 5 mins walk away. Only down side is well makes maintenance more expensive!
awesome video BUT the camera handling is really bad.. you move too much ! you have to stay stable and move slowly