Dillon 1050 Changeover Pt 2 MrBulletFeeder Proximity Switch
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- Опубликовано: 9 янв 2019
- Adding a proximity switch to Mr. BulletFeeder to better handle .223 bullets.
Download drawing at documentcloud.adobe.com/link/...
Amazon part links
Sensor- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Relay- www.amazon.com/Dorman-88069-U...
12vdc "wall wart" power supply- www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Mo...
Thank you for this. I'm in the process of building a case sorter, case collator and eventually a bullet feeder for myself and my son. I didn't want to use mechanical switches. Thanks again.. you just save me alot of time.
I can't express how much I look forward to your videos, everything about them is top notch, sound and video, and the attention to detail, is right on the mark.
Now that I think about it, there is one thing that is lacking with your videos, that is the frequency of their release, we need more..
Just joking, greatness takes times to achieve.
Thank you
Eric
Comments like this are what keep me making these videos. Thank you so much!
Sick Boy r i
Top notch solution sir. I really enjoy the range of interests and abilities evident in your videos. Thank you.
I am definitely interested in many things. Still learning about every one of them. And with luck, I'll keep on learning. Thanks for your comment.
I have the same issue with my Mr Bullet Feeder 223 switch. I bent my switch arm a little flatter and it is working for now. Thank you for the helpful video. I am going to machine a custom top out of UHMW for the proximity switch to thread into. Great idea and thanks for sharing!
Please let us/me know how that works out. I'm especially interested in how you do the machining. Thanks so much for commenting.
I machined it yesterday. Im waiting for electronics...
Great Video! Thank you Sir!
Thank you, Martin.
Excellent!
Good job
Thank you, Robert.
There are inductive Sensors that are exactly made for such a Purpose. Like Disoric IR20 PSOK-IBS, Pepperl&Fuchs RJ43-E2 or Turck IR30R. Maybe there are other Brands in North America, I don't know. Straight Inductive Sensors like yours obviously work fine. Thanks for your Video :)
Thanks for your information The Disoric and P&F sensors you reference are "ring" sensors which have a hole the sensing object passes through. They seem like a good idea, but the Pepperl&Fuchs model costs almost $300 vs. the $fourteen$ I paid for my Chinese sensor on Amazon. The opening in the P&F is 43mm vs the 25mm diameter of the MBF tube, so mounting it would require some sort of adaptor. The Disoric has a 20mm opening, so it wouldn't work at all. I couldn't find any info on the Turck. At any rate, even if you use a ring type sensor, you'll still need to connect its three wires in the same way as the typical tube-type sensor.
Please don't take this as a bash of your suggestion because I did not know about ring sensors until you posted this comment. I really appreciate all good input like this.
Can we get an amazon link for the sensor added to the description? Once again another great video
Sure thing. I should have done that already. The Amazon numbers are in the drawing, but links are better. Check back in a few minutes.
Great job; I'm in the beginning of a VERY similar project, converting my Ponsness-Warren automatic hull feeder from micro switch control to some sort of photo sensor. Obvious difference is that the shotgun hulls don't have enough metal to reliably trip, so I am going to try a reflective type sensor. Your simplified wiring diagram tells me I'm on right track.
I sincerely appreciate you taking time to do these videos. I would like to offer my services with 3D printer as a means of saying thanks. If you are in need of same, I'll be glad to help. Thx again.
Thank you so much for your generous offer of 3D printing. I bought one myself earlier this year and it's been a wonderful purchase.
I recently bought some of these optical sensor boards which contain a relay on the board.
www.ebay.com/itm/2-pcs-5V-LSR-Light-Sensitive-Sensor-Relay-Photosensitive-Optical-Relay-Module/253046915392?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I added a tiny LED on the opposite side of the bullet feeder and it works like a charm. I've put together a video on it, but I haven't posted it. I redesigned the printed plastic feed tube and I'm happy with it. I should go ahead and post the video, so look for it later today. That might help you. I will share the .stl and .step files.
I used your idea on proximity sensor and found a similar photocell and reflector on Amazon. I wanted more flexibility in mounting sensor than having to “hit” the brass part of the shell. Regardless, thanks for getting me started. The 3D printer probably cut design/build time by 75% 👍
www.dropbox.com/s/gt9nws41nkqz8cy/P-W%20hull%20feeder%20photocell%20.jpg?dl=0
@@phedewah Great job!
Don't do 223 but do lots of 9 and your idea would/should work on the case feeder funnel in case of jam. Thanks
Nice mod
Thanks very much. Watch soon for a follow-up to this with my first 3D printed part.
Rex, inventive solution to the issue. However - and I am not being critical, merely curious - is there a reason you didn’t just bend the MBF switch ‘sensor’ ( the ? shaped piece of flat metal) to give it more reach to catch the .223? That’s what I did and it seems to work fine and took about 5 minutes (including the 4 minutes of figuring out how that switch worked). I’m wondering now if there’s a reason I should not have?
Oh yes. I bent that lever every which way and no joy. I hear you loud and clear. Believe me, I would never have gone to so much trouble and expense just for fun. I also tried other switches and changed the pivot point on the lever. No joy. The great thing about the sensor solution is that it works with any bullet. I’ve used 35 grain to 72 grain with no adjustments except to the feeder itself.
Thanks for sharing this awesome design. I have printed my own case feeder and almost have it working with the same relay and proximity switch
except i have a hopefully simple problem. My setup has a generic 12v motor with a positive and negative terminal. It does not have the wires
that you are using from the switch on MRBF. Is there any way you could show how to connect in this situation?
Thanks Tom. Congratulations on making your own equipment. You should be able to control your motor via the relay. I don't know if it is better to control your motor via the + or - lead. I would check into that. Assuming for the moment that one is a better choice, simply route that lead through the relay and on to the motor. The relay is merely a switch that will open or close a circuit depending on which pair of terminals you use. The proximity switch is connected to the relay coil which will turn on or off when a bullet is near the sensor.
The prox sensor will be either normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). Either type will work. If it is NO, that means it will close when the bullet is sensed. That means the relay will turn on when a bullet is sensed. You would connect your motor lead to 87a. The motor power lead will always connect to 30, the relay common. When the feeder is empty, the relay contacts will be closed and the motor will run. When the feeder fills, the prox sensor will detect the top bullet, turn on the relay and break the contacts to the motor which stops it.
If your prox sensor is NC, just connect the motor lead to 87. The relay will be on while the feeder is filling. Once filled, the prox sensor opens, the relay will turn off and the contacts to the motor will open and the motor will stop.
I hope that helps.
@@RexRoach Thanks again, I now have it up and running perfectly. After watching everything in full speed I think the constant on/off dropping one shell at a time may get annoying for me and maybe the motor as well. I may try and add in some kind of delay on the motor as well. Anyways thanks for great video
Rex were do I find the .stl file so that I may print the part that the sensor threads into? Thanks for a great video
Try here, Mike: drive.google.com/file/d/1VlzQ0wd-IWHvZB0tpyt3PRrPPqE8b6Lm/view?usp=sharing
Now that you modified the Mr. BulletFeeder for 22 caliber will other calibers such as 9mm 40cal or 308 slide past the sensor?
Sorta. I've been working on some 3D printed parts to address that. Watch for a video soon.
can I assume that the trigger wire on the sensor was "hot" when the red light was on, (telling Mr bullet feeder to run)?
Yes, because this is a normally closed (NC) sensor, it provides a current path on the signal wire when it is NOT tripped, in this case by a bullet. When it is tripped, the light goes off and the signal wire does not function.
Is the bullet feeder motor 120v and the relay is a interposing relay or is it 12v and you are just putting the motor load on the relay instead of the prox switch?
The motor is 12vdc and I am putting the load on the relay instead of the prox switch. I don't know the maximum current draw of the motor, but Mr. BulletFeeder says the power supply for it is current limited to 900ma to prevent damage should the motor be stalled (an easy thing to do if a bullet should jam the rotor). The prox switch is rated to 300ma, so the likelihood of a damaging condition is about 100%, hence the need for the relay. I measured the current on the motor and under "normal" conditions, it's about 100ma, so the prox switch **could** turn it on and off directly, but I'd be willing to bet you'd have to replace those prox switches about once every loading session. Great question, BTW.
GREAT design and video this will be a big improvement to my bullet feeder.
I'm having trouble getting into the document cloud, can you give me the Amazon numbers?
Click on "Show More" and you'll find direct links to the Amazon parts.
@@RexRoach Is there someway I could buy the 3D printing of the bullet drop?
@@chill9800 In the information or description area under this video ruclips.net/video/EkOXb08DC1s/видео.html you will find the .stl file and a website to send it for printing. Download the file. Go to the website and submit the file. That should do it. Follow the directions for details.
Would this sensor be triggered by a 223 case in a case feeder. I could 3d print a holder for the sensor if it indeed would be triggered by a brass case.
Yes, it will definitely trigger when a brass cartridge case is nearby. It has to be pretty close, but yes. Typically you'll find these inductive proximity sensors come in 18, 12 and 8mm body diameters. The larger ones have the most sensitivity and work over the longest range.
You might want to look at all the videos I have done on 3d printing housings for these sensors. I also made one that counts the rounds (including empty brass) that was 3d printed.
@@RexRoach Thanks for the reply. I printed a case feeder that I found on thingiverse. I had to design a new funnel for the bottom where the cases come out because the one they showed seemed to get jammed up for me. I have it working but I need a way to shut it off when it gets full. I use it on a Lee app press to decap 223 brass.
Just curious but why wouldn’t the 2 wire version work? Couldn’t it be hooked up in series like the micro switch and work in the same way?
Yes, you can use a 2-wire OR 3-wire prox sensor. However, you can’t simply connect the 2-wire prox in place of the MBB micro switch. It will work that way, yes, until the motor gets loaded by a jam and the current draw exceeds the prox’s 200-300 ma rating and burns it out. You will still need to use a relay to operate the MBB motor.
On the other hand, if you can find a cheap one, buy two and test it out. The motor might never pull enough current to damage it. Worse case you’re out ten bucks. If it works, you’ve really simplified things and saved the cost of a relay and power supply. You’ll need to get a normally closed version so the motor will run when there’s no bullet.
Rex Roach got it. Thanks so much for clarifying that. Amazing video thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!
@@marksantiago7234, thanks for the great question. Love these discussions. I learn new things, things get clarified and I learn more about what else people what to know and where I've fallen down on the job.
Rex Roach ya I purchased a cheap one on amazon before I saw this video haha. Hoping it’ll work for my DIY case feeder... originally tried using a micro switch but couldn’t get it to work consistently enough...
If I end up burning up this inductive switch no biggie, I’ll just do it again this time the correct way you have outlined here. Again thank you for the knowledge! Take care
Magnifico grazie. per il mercato italiano quale alimentatore consigli da 12 v in quanto la tensione è 220 v.?
Grazie mille. Dillon vende un alimentatore da 220 volt, quindi non dovrebbe essere un problema. Per il signor BulletFeeder è possibile utilizzare un alimentatore come questo da Amazon www.amazon.com/AUTOTOOLHOME-Adapter-Adjustable-Supply-Controller/dp/B01M3NL3NV. Forse la ditta BulletFeeder offre un alimentatore da 220 volt.
Ho acquistato i componenti da te elencati e dovrei riceverli in questi giorni. Quindi farò la modifica da te illustrata. Vorrei domandare se nel tuo impianto utilizzi 2 alimentatori (uno per la Bulletfeeder ed un altro per il proximity sensor), oppure utilizzi 1 alimentatore per entrambi. Grazie e cordiali saluti
Sì, utilizzo due alimentatori. L'alimentazione del BulletFeeder è variabile e a bassa tensione (velocità) potrebbe non funzionare il sensore e / o il relè. Io uso un alimentatore da 12 V fisso per il sensore e il relè.
@@RexRoach Grazie sei gentilissimo; ti informerò appena faccio la modifica. Saluti dall'Italia.
Sir. Almost all microswitches have 2 pivot places to place this metal arm for set proper lever ratio. There is a large amount of microswitch models that need very light force to activate, they are very very cheap.
A cheap microswitch that would work would indeed be a better solution. Thank you for bringing this information to my attention.
I built one that functions right, but my light flashes on when a bullet drops and stays on when bullet is in front of switch. Did I do something wrong?
Sounds like you have a normally open (NO) prox sensor (switch), and that is 100% OK. That means the sensor turns on or closes the circuit in the presence of metal. The light tells you when it is on. This means your relay coil will activate when there is a bullet near the sensor. You want Mr. Bulletfeeder to stop when there’s a bullet near the sensor, so you wire the two MBF wires to the common and NC contacts. That way, normally MBF will run and feed bullets, and then stop when the relay is energized by the sensor (bullet close by) and the NC contacts are opened. Bottom line: if your sensor is NO, use the NC relay contacts and vice-versa.
@@RexRoach Thank you. Seems to work right testing, haven't hooked it up yet. I have continuity through the two wires in place of switch until prox switch senses bullet, then wires have no continuity. Should tum feeder off, is this correct?
steve I think you’re not clear how the prox sensor works. It is not like a switch which makes or breaks a circuit. It will provide either +voltage or ground via the black wire when energized. The brown goes to DC+ and the blue to DC- or ground. That provides power for the sensor. The black wire provides either +DC or -DC (ground) depending on whether it is an NPN (black provides ground) or PNP (black provides DC+).
You connect the black wire to one of the relay coil terminals. Connect the other terminal to DC+ if your sensor is NPN and the sensor will complete the circuit to ground when energized. If the sensor is PNP you connect the other relay coil terminal to ground and the sensor will provide DC+ to the coil.
Hope that makes sense and helps.
@@RexRoach Link to pictures, hope it's ok. www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Dillon-1050/42-511668/?r=-1&page=3&anc=5330389#i5330389
@@RexRoach I followed your schematic, so hope it's right. I'll find out when all is together. Thank you for all you do.