A refugee from the HAMB here, and another vote for some support for the transfer case to take some weight off the tailshaft housing/transfer case adapter thingamabob. My '84 has done the same thing, and I am running out of extras, so a support for me it is 😉
Hi Don - I do plan to do this, but there are a few ways to accomplish it. First would just be a simple crossmember for the transfer case. You'd have to figure out how to mount it to the TC, but that wouldn't be too difficult. The other option is to fab a brace that takes some of the stress off the extension housing. Lots of Duramax folks buy an aftermarket brace to help their transmission extension housings but no such animal for Fords so building your own is pretty much your only option. Thanks for the comment! Scott
Nice Job, and that's its done the right way by drilling the holes! I have a friend that has a Chevy he just picked up, for some reason the transmission had a crack in the housing, his mechanic used this same product & it seems to be holding up, no leaks on an Automatic pretty great stuff. I repaired a motorcycle fairing for a friend & used JB Weld, one thing I learned was that you could use rubbing Alcohol to smooth the epoxy out & pack it into the repair really well (wearing a latex glove using your finger) , it really smooths out the finish big time. Plus it can be used for clean up.
Yeah - that was a bit surprising when you drilled it out to see how thin the material is. I hope it holds for you. The addition of the bolts I think was a good idea. Looking forward to seeing more content!
Michael - I was quite surprised to see how thin it was, too! I think the bolts should help, but time will tell. Thanks for the comment, and more content is on the way! Scott
Thanks for showing this, I need to look at mine now. I would think that the alumibond might be a little softer compared to the host aluminum, allowing it to flex slightly without breaking. Just thinking the alumibond might be less brittle, and now the area is more than twice as thick.
Those 4x4 zf5s seem to crack often because the weight of the transfer case is hanging off the back unsupported. I see this one has been welded already in the place that they usually crack. I wonder if the crack you repaired is leftover damage from that first crack. If I were you I would make some sort of support for the transfer case to give your repair the best chance.
I found the first crack after I disassembled the trans for a rebuild. When I took it in to a local shop to have the crack TIG welded, it got cracked again in the same area, likely happened when they welded it or when it cooled. I think I can make a support for the TC. Thanks, Scott
Scott, Lisle Tap Sockets will help when tapping holes where the t handle won’t fit! They are GJ recommended. Great video as always! Happy New Year to you!
Fantastic work as always Scott! You had to use the tools and techniques you had on hand and I agree it’ll work just fine. The bolts were a good addition, and with the amount you used it’s impossible for that thing to leak ever again lol. I personally believe the 7.3 IDI motor you will be bolting this to will never produce enough torque to break the alumiweld. If this is a common place for these cases to crack then after fixing the problem it should be good to go for the life of the truck theoretically speaking. Looking forward to the next video😀👍
Hey YDOC - thanks for taking the time to provide detailed feedback! I really appreciate it. If I do end up using this extension housing, I think I will fashion a brace for it. More to follow on that. Thanks again! Scott
Mine is cracked in the same exact place. I honestly wouldn’t have high hopes for a weld to hold nor does my buddy who does repairs for a living. Key repair is find a f super duty 2wd trans tail housing that’s never had a t-case hanging off it. I can only assume the crack is a byproduct of torque. Previous experience with an SM 465/NP 205 cast iron adapter that broke due to worn out mount bushings. Do the math 70’s vehicles with broken/worn parts in the 90s now 90’s vehicles with “ in the 2020’s.
Matt - I'm thinking about fabricating a brace for it -- it would extend from the trans to the transfer case and bolt on to both. There's a company that makes these but not for ZF'5/1356 transmissions. A crossmember supporting the transfer case would also help. Thanks for the input! Scott
Matt - forgot one thing - I can't run an S42 tail housing on my S47 trans, and I don't know if Ford was still producing the F Super Duty when the S47 trans came out. Will have to check. Thanks, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE You know GM used a torque rod from the factory to support the NP208. So everything twisted in the same plane. Come up with something similar and it’d probably help
I’m not a welder, but I think you’re supposed to braise cast so that it doesn’t warp and it has a stronger yield strength than weld on the surface would I’m no expert though
My goal is to not make these holes a spot of weakness“ for some reason this is the second video that I watched tonight where somebody drilled holes into casings steal bolts aluminum threads yeah I know that’ll last
A refugee from the HAMB here, and another vote for some support for the transfer case to take some weight off the tailshaft housing/transfer case adapter thingamabob. My '84 has done the same thing, and I am running out of extras, so a support for me it is 😉
Hi Don - I do plan to do this, but there are a few ways to accomplish it. First would just be a simple crossmember for the transfer case. You'd have to figure out how to mount it to the TC, but that wouldn't be too difficult. The other option is to fab a brace that takes some of the stress off the extension housing. Lots of Duramax folks buy an aftermarket brace to help their transmission extension housings but no such animal for Fords so building your own is pretty much your only option. Thanks for the comment! Scott
Nice Job, and that's its done the right way by drilling the holes! I have a friend that has a Chevy he just picked up, for some reason the transmission had a crack in the housing, his mechanic used this same product & it seems to be holding up, no leaks on an Automatic pretty great stuff. I repaired a motorcycle fairing for a friend & used JB Weld, one thing I learned was that you could use rubbing Alcohol to smooth the epoxy out & pack it into the repair really well (wearing a latex glove using your finger) , it really smooths out the finish big time. Plus it can be used for clean up.
Also if you let the material harden some before trying to smooth it out, maybe a 1/2 hour .
Thanks for the tip on rubbing alcohol. Didn't know that. Scott
Yeah - that was a bit surprising when you drilled it out to see how thin the material is. I hope it holds for you. The addition of the bolts I think was a good idea. Looking forward to seeing more content!
Michael - I was quite surprised to see how thin it was, too! I think the bolts should help, but time will tell. Thanks for the comment, and more content is on the way! Scott
Thanks for showing this, I need to look at mine now. I would think that the alumibond might be a little softer compared to the host aluminum, allowing it to flex slightly without breaking. Just thinking the alumibond might be less brittle, and now the area is more than twice as thick.
That's what I'm thinking, too, Chris. Thanks for the comment. Scott
I hope this repair last as long as the motor! Great videos. Happy new year Scott!
Caleb - I sure hope so, but it does make me nervous! Happy New Year, Scott
Those 4x4 zf5s seem to crack often because the weight of the transfer case is hanging off the back unsupported. I see this one has been welded already in the place that they usually crack. I wonder if the crack you repaired is leftover damage from that first crack. If I were you I would make some sort of support for the transfer case to give your repair the best chance.
I found the first crack after I disassembled the trans for a rebuild. When I took it in to a local shop to have the crack TIG welded, it got cracked again in the same area, likely happened when they welded it or when it cooled. I think I can make a support for the TC. Thanks, Scott
Scott, Lisle Tap Sockets will help when tapping holes where the t handle won’t fit! They are GJ recommended. Great video as always! Happy New Year to you!
Mr Breeze - Excellent! An excuse to buy more tools!!! Thanks! Scott
Fantastic work as always Scott! You had to use the tools and techniques you had on hand and I agree it’ll work just fine. The bolts were a good addition, and with the amount you used it’s impossible for that thing to leak ever again lol. I personally believe the 7.3 IDI motor you will be bolting this to will never produce enough torque to break the alumiweld. If this is a common place for these cases to crack then after fixing the problem it should be good to go for the life of the truck theoretically speaking. Looking forward to the next video😀👍
Hey YDOC - thanks for taking the time to provide detailed feedback! I really appreciate it. If I do end up using this extension housing, I think I will fashion a brace for it. More to follow on that. Thanks again! Scott
Hope that works out for ya! Happy new year! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Gonna have to cross my fingers on this one, Simple Man! Happy New Year!!! Scott
I was going to buy this. I would like to see the Carfax on it first though please just kidding. I know you’re fixing it
You just gonna mix on the nearest surface right?
Yep!
DID YOU REALLY USE THE BARBECUE TRAY TO MIX THE EPOXY
Absolutely!
Mine is cracked in the same exact place. I honestly wouldn’t have high hopes for a weld to hold nor does my buddy who does repairs for a living. Key repair is find a f super duty 2wd trans tail housing that’s never had a t-case hanging off it.
I can only assume the crack is a byproduct of torque. Previous experience with an SM 465/NP 205 cast iron adapter that broke due to worn out mount bushings.
Do the math 70’s vehicles with broken/worn parts in the 90s now 90’s vehicles with “ in the 2020’s.
Matt - I'm thinking about fabricating a brace for it -- it would extend from the trans to the transfer case and bolt on to both. There's a company that makes these but not for ZF'5/1356 transmissions. A crossmember supporting the transfer case would also help. Thanks for the input! Scott
Matt - forgot one thing - I can't run an S42 tail housing on my S47 trans, and I don't know if Ford was still producing the F Super Duty when the S47 trans came out. Will have to check. Thanks, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE You know GM used a torque rod from the factory to support the NP208. So everything twisted in the same plane. Come up with something similar and it’d probably help
@@mattg7952 Yep. Going to see what I can figure out. Thanks again, Scott
I’m not a welder, but I think you’re supposed to braise cast so that it doesn’t warp and it has a stronger yield strength than weld on the surface would I’m no expert though
should work as long as the case doesn't flex
Thanks for the vote of confidence! If I use it, I may add a brace of some sort. Scott
Casually just uses grill to mix the goop in lmfao
Hey, it makes a nice workbench!
My goal is to not make these holes a spot of weakness“ for some reason this is the second video that I watched tonight where somebody drilled holes into casings steal bolts aluminum threads yeah I know that’ll last
Any updates on the fix. Bout to have to fashion something similar on my f-250
I ended up sourcing an uncracked one and sold this one. I'm not sure if it held up or not. Thanks, Scott
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE dang. Alright. Thank you.
I fixed my JB weld with JB weld
Did it work
Robert - I ended up sourcing an uncracked one; video pending. I'll probably sell this one. Scott
I thought mixing that kind of stuff should be done in plastic container?
I don't think it really matters as long as it's a clean surface.
can work alumbond 90935? to put on the outside in a crack of a ford transmission
If it's an aluminum case, it's worth a try, but I would make sure it's very clean and oil free before applying it.
@@THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE thank you
@@MrAnton0628 Happy to help!
❤
I’m not a mechanic, but I don’t think that’s the right way to do that
Hope the epoxy don't get into the fluid
The epoxy is actually designed to be used in these type of environments. Thanks