Cool vid, thanks. It also helps a lot to drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks so they don't spread, then fill them in at the same time as the crack repair.
you have to wire brush that stuff in. Basically when you get a coating of the brazing material on it, you have to brush it in while carefully leaving the heat on it. Then you go back and add more material to it to finish it off. This stuff is a decent alternative to welding but can be really tricky if you are trying to work with thin material. I tried to do some ac lines and it would not make a seal no matter how hard I tried. It looked ok but wouldn't hold pressure. I ended up using a mig welder to weld the lines together. I need to learn to tig weld.
I'm a little dissapointed that you didn't blow a hole in it, like my radiator. But we did get to play with JB Weld and mesh from an air cleaner to repair it.
How better is soldering compared to using JB weld or similar? I had a friend accidentally damage the flange on my 18 civic back in June and left a small crack when pulling out the driver side CV axle. It hasn't leaked but I cleaned it up weld and used permatex cold weld similar to JB weld back in june. Would this be a good way to repair or is it better to solder or possibly Tig weld?
This is effectively soldering, just with a higher temp material. It's definitely better than epoxy, probably not as good as TIG. I considered doing TIG, but cast aluminum can be a bear, and if I screwed that up, the case would be trash.
I banged on my tansmission (with a piece of wood) to separate it from the engine. well, it got a crack a little more than half inch where it's kinda like a flap ( and the wall is slightly pushed in maybe 1-2 mm) this is not on the outside of the housing but I think on the other side of this area there probably is oil (though I don't see it leaking). if I drain the oil, would I be able to braze that area? or would it be too dangerous to get it that hot knowing that there's still some oil on the other side? I guess I'm worried about fire or something. I can provide a photo
It's going to burn the oil, but I personally wouldn't worry about a fire. There's no place for air to easily get in there. I'd be more concerned about the burn residue, though the filter should probably get all of that. Just make sure you put in fresh fluid afterward.
Cool vid, thanks.
It also helps a lot to drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks so they don't spread, then fill them in at the same time as the crack repair.
As Richard would say, those damn kids could break an anvil with a glass hammer.
you have to wire brush that stuff in. Basically when you get a coating of the brazing material on it, you have to brush it in while carefully leaving the heat on it. Then you go back and add more material to it to finish it off.
This stuff is a decent alternative to welding but can be really tricky if you are trying to work with thin material.
I tried to do some ac lines and it would not make a seal no matter how hard I tried. It looked ok but wouldn't hold pressure. I ended up using a mig welder to weld the lines together.
I need to learn to tig weld.
I would have drilled a small hole on each end of the crack to stop it’s progress.
I'm a little dissapointed that you didn't blow a hole in it, like my radiator. But we did get to play with JB Weld and mesh from an air cleaner to repair it.
Didn't we also melt an old battery terminal on there?
Could be. I don't remember.
How better is soldering compared to using JB weld or similar? I had a friend accidentally damage the flange on my 18 civic back in June and left a small crack when pulling out the driver side CV axle. It hasn't leaked but I cleaned it up weld and used permatex cold weld similar to JB weld back in june. Would this be a good way to repair or is it better to solder or possibly Tig weld?
This is effectively soldering, just with a higher temp material. It's definitely better than epoxy, probably not as good as TIG. I considered doing TIG, but cast aluminum can be a bear, and if I screwed that up, the case would be trash.
How much do you charge for something like that???
LOL. With my lack of skill, I'd never charge anyone.
I banged on my tansmission (with a piece of wood) to separate it from the engine. well, it got a crack a little more than half inch where it's kinda like a flap ( and the wall is slightly pushed in maybe 1-2 mm) this is not on the outside of the housing but I think on the other side of this area there probably is oil (though I don't see it leaking). if I drain the oil, would I be able to braze that area? or would it be too dangerous to get it that hot knowing that there's still some oil on the other side? I guess I'm worried about fire or something. I can provide a photo
It's going to burn the oil, but I personally wouldn't worry about a fire. There's no place for air to easily get in there. I'd be more concerned about the burn residue, though the filter should probably get all of that. Just make sure you put in fresh fluid afterward.
@@YoshimoshiGarage thanks so much for the response. not sure how to share a photo right now I hope there's no internal damage
Is it possible to do this with just a propane torch?
I don't think it would get hot enough. MAPP gas (yellow cylinders) would probably work.
That’s pretty cool, good work
remove the bell housing fromgearbox
Not possible on a 727. It's one cast unit.
💪👍
Amateur! I broke mine with a mini sledge and a 2x4.
Sweet!